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Big first home purchase pending. Major jitters. Help!?
Wife and I found a house we LOVE in a good area of Los Angeles. Just freaking out a bit about the huge numbers we're staring at, especially as neither of us have owned before. 3 bed, 3 bath (inc. ADU) 1,850 sq ft. $755K. (FWIW, this is almost MEDIAN home price in LA). Current APR is 3.75% (up front 3.5 when we first found the home ). Not our FIRST choice neighborhood, but safe & trending upwards in prominence. Our combined yearly salaries are ~$215K (pre-tax). We have $85K down payment + closing costs, w/ alsonat least 6 months emergency fund remaining. ADU is a licensed single bedroom with separate entrance (+ separate mailing address) and has its own bathroom, kitchenette). Rentals airbnb ~$50/night or ~$800/month. We are confident we'll continue to earn more money each year and rent out the ADU when possible but we are also worried about being house poor!!!! 2 days until end of inspection contingency Any advice is much appreciated. There are many smarter minds than mine on here
Amigo, a house is not an investment, consider it as a home first then investment as a side effect of that. Make sure you love the place, the school, walkability, expected expenses etc. if on those terms it makes sense to you buy it. The market going up and down is irrelevant if you intend to hold it for a long time. Good luck! Which neighborhood is the property if you don’t mind me asking?
You are where my girlfriend and I would like to be in a year or so! We are looking to buy in LA as well. May I ask what neighborhood you guys bought in? If you are more comfortable, you can dm me too. Hopefully someone with more experience gives you some advice, but from my perspective, it looks like a normal deal! As long as you both see your jobs as stable, or easily replaceable, and you maintain that emergency fund (in the event you both suddenly lose jobs or something bad like that), I think you are in a reasonable position!
RealEstate
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Moving to San Diego from Boca Raton
So I am 23 years old and I am in a position in my life where I have an opportunity to move out to California to join a start up dispensary. (Some 1% friends are going to buy out current storefronts in the area) and I was offered a 6 month contract with a guaranteed $2400 a month after taxes so roughly 600 a week. My girlfriend and I are both employed down here in southflorida with me working 40 hours a week (12.50 an hour) and her working about 25 (13.00) altogether we currently make around $2800 a month. We are both in a position where we have no debt or leases holding us back and about 5000-6000 dollars saved up for a move. We each have cars (my 94 accord and her 06 focus) and would want to take those with us along with that our 2 cats that would come with. I was thinking that if we move over there we would buy a new bed a small desk for my pic and a small couch, the rest we can fit in our cars. But my big question for you guys is do you think I would be able to swing being able to live in San Diego comfortably with a 2400 dollar monthly salary? My gf would be working as well but it would be about a month before she finds anything guaranteed. We were looking at around $1200-1500 in rent somewhere near the city but not right inside and I believe our monthly grocery cost would be about $400 and our bills (phones utilities and Internet) would come out to be about 350 a month. I guess what I'm trying to ask with these numbers is it worth me making the move and going somewhere different in life? Should I try and figure out a way to make more by maybe taking a second job for 15 hours a week? I have looked up the cost of living and I see that is high but so was boca raton. Any opinions thoughts or anything are greatly welcome. I will be having to make the final decision in about 5 days and again any advice is welcome, if there is more you guys want me to add just ask and I will answer to the best of my abilities
I will be shipping my Honda for $1200 This is almost more than the car is worth, I'd look into paying someone to drive it there for you for half the price. Or even selling in FL and picking up a similarly used Honda in San Diego.
Just commenting to say congrats! I grew up in SD and went to High School in Boca. You can kiss that humidity good bye! Only thing i'll chime in with is I recently moved back to CA (Sacramento area) and gas is noticeably more expensive out here. Keep that in mind when you're looking for housing. I think I paid $2.69 last night. Eat lots of Mexican food when you get here. Also - since I recently moved from the east to west coast - plan your trip where you can stay at similar hotels so you can rack up rewards points and get a free night. It also helps when you stay at hotels that offer free breakfast, one less meal to worry about. Don't rush the trip, the country is beautiful. Hit the Grand Canyon if at all possible.
personalfinance
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To pay off mortgage early, or use money elsewhere?
Hello, My wife and I are both 29 years old and bought our first house in March of this year. The house is in great shape, and we plan on being here long term, even into retirement if we can. We purchased the house for $485,000, and put $50,000 down for a total loan amount of $435,000 at 4.0% interest. The monthly payment excluding taxes and insurance is $2077/mo. Combined, my wife and I bring home $6,200-$6400/month. Prior to purchasing the house, we had been completely debt free for about a year and a half, so now our monthly expenses are just the necessities: water/electricity/gas/food/childcare and of course the mortgage. Now for my question: I’ve been playing around with mortgage payoff calculators, and found that we can pay off the mortgage about 9-10 years early if we pay an extra $6,000 per year towards the principal, and would be saving over a hundred thousand dollars in interest over that time. Now would be a good time to mention that in addition to the monthly take home pay mentioned above, I receive a bonus every year. It has increased each of the 5 years I’ve worked for my employer, and last year it totaled $32,000 (About 20K take home). In the past I’ve used this for any big purchases I had coming up (i.e. engagement ring/car/honeymoon/down payment on house), and to boost the emergency fund. My question is, would it be wise to put $6000 of this bonus towards the principal of our mortgage every year in order to pay it off early? I love the idea of being empty nesters at age 50, and not needing to pay for the nest. OR would that 6K/year be better served somewhere else? Am I over-romanticizing the idea of having the mortgage paid off by the time we’re 50 instead of 60?
There's no right or wrong answer. However, paying off the mortgage is a GUARANTEED savings of 100K. No matter what happens, that's guaranteed. Investing that money in the market is a POSSIBLE gain in the market of around 5% per year. However, it could be 10% a year or it could be a loss of 20%. There's no way to know. So you have to play the risk game. I would only consider paying off the mortgage early if I had good life insurance, fully funded 401K and IRA's and a healthy emergency fund. All of those should be happening first. At that point you should consider paying additional principal to pay the mortgage down quicker.
You are now paying mostly interests, so I'd say yes, pay as much as you can of the mortgage now. Unless you can find somwhere where your money will generate more than 4% interest, then put your money there!
personalfinance
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With mounting medical debts, should I change my approach to paying my bills?
Hey all, I posted in the weekday thread but did not receive any responses. Should I be doing anything differently? My medical debts are growing and I wonder if there's a better way to handle it Location: Texas, USA Age: 26 FICO Score: 733 Income: >Salary: $42k gross, paid every other Friday (benefits/taxes listed below in the current payments section) >401K: $3k approximately. I contribute 5% my employer matches with 4% >CD (1.98%, approx 7 months old...matures in September): $1,232.93 >Expecting approximately $1,200 in mileage reimbursements in the next two weeks, with an additional ~$200 the month after >Savings: $4,501.43 (plan is to be used for school so I dont need to take loans out) Debts: >Credit Card 1 (Interest: 11.24%): $6,333.46 >Credit Card 2 (Interest: 18.15%): $5,495.59 >Student Loans: >>1 (3.4%): $2,389.93 >>2 (6.8%): $421.30 >>3 (3.4%): $825.90 >>4 (6.8%): $3,855.16 >>5 (3.86%): $5606.73 >>6 (6.21%): $9,088.07 >>7 (5.84%): $10,945.17 >>8 (6%): $15,946.03 >Car (daily interest $0.22): $1,133.21 >Medical: approximately $20k and increasing by $130-$150 weekly, plus approximately $40 per month in medications Current Regular Payments: Car payment: $210 Rent, Utilities, and Groceries: $600 Phones (one work one personal): $80 Gas: ~$30 weekly Software Subscriptions: >Student Spotify/Hul Subscription: $5.40 monthly Student Loan: $5/month, plus whatever I have left from my paycheck at the end of the pay period CD: $75 every two weeks auto transferred Benefits automatically deducted from my paycheck: >Critical Care Insurance: $3.83 biweekly >Dental: $11.69 biweekly >Long Term Disability: $1.29 biweekly >Health Insurance: $145.13 biweekly >Vision: $2.95 biweekly >Short term disability: free >Life Insurance ($42k): free >Taxes: ~$250 biweekly Credit Card 1: minimum payment is $28, I usually pay around $200 Credit Card 2: no minimum payment. I use this card regularly for medical needs and incidentals, usually just transfer what I spend on incidentals over. I get cash rewards which is why I use it this way Tolls: as much as $40 weekly. Try to keep this to a minimum, but I work in one city and my medical appointments are in another so I have to use them often to make it on time. So...how should I proceed? Any advice or suggestions welcome
If you took $1100 out of your savings and paid your car off (which looks like it has high interest rate), you would then have and extra $210 a month to put toward that CC debt. If you freed up the monthly $150 payment that’s going toward your CD, you could have an extra $360 a month to work with.
I'd recommend setting up an account on undebt.it You already have all your debt info so it will take you no time at all (and it's free). This will really help give a proper overview of your debt situation and how to get it paid off. You could seriously have it done in less than 30min and have a whole new perspective on what it will take to pay your debt off. And I second the suggestions on listening to Dave Ramsey and others, dropping the CD and reducing savings to payoff debt.
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What is your coolest, favorite, or most recent feature you've built into your spreadsheet?
Pretty straightforward. What do you like about your spreadsheet, or what have you done most recently to improve it? My SS has been pretty basic I'd guess for a while. I manually imput numbers on a generally quarterly basis. I've also input my target spending so it gives me FI and FIRE dates based on that. This is just aesthics, but recently I've added in conditional formatting to fade all rows in the past, highlight in yellow the current month, and also highlight incremental $1MM milestones. I want to look into automating balance pulls wherever possible, but that's a project for another time. So what do you like/what have you done recently?
I set up a Google Form for inputting expenses on the go, and it automatically feeds into my Budget spreadsheet and is totalled in the right place. I've gotten into the habit of recording transactions right when I make them, which saves me from sitting down and doing it all at once by trawling through bank statements.
I’ve been adding a new feature every month or two but one I really liked that I added recently just for fun is future projection if 401k max contribution limits (currently 18.5k) based off of historical increases in contribution limits. Pretty cool making a projection based off of those assumptions.
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Under age 21 so ineligible for 401k contributions, company has been deducting from my paycheck anyways. What can I do?
I'm 18 years old. I work full time for a software company. I've been with them since April 2014. When I was hired, I was told that my company offered a 401k plan but I am ineligible because I'm under age 21. I was okay with that, and I assumed that that would be the last that I heard about my 401k. However, I just took a look at my last paystub and I noticed a deduction of $105 with the label "401k". I checked each paystub and that deduction has been present since January 2015. I contacted HR and they said that the old HR director set up automatic enrollment for the company's 401k. I was told by the old HR director when I was hired that I would not be enrolled since I was under 21. Apparently, I was enrolled without my knowledge. To date, I have "contributed" $1,500. However, that 401k account is not valid since I am under 21. Apparently I don't have any way to access the funds. HR told me "due to federal regulations, we are unable to reimburse you the money you contributed". But apparently I cannot access it myself either. How do I handle this situation? I'm pretty pissed off. They've taken $1,500 from me under the guise of a "401k", but I don't even have a 401k. Thanks UPDATE: Just got an email from HR. They contacted Fidelity and they had to close my account and withdraw the funds. I'll get a $1500 check in the mail soon along with a 1099 to report the taxes. Thanks for your help!
First, don't worry, you'll get your money one way or another. There's no federal regulation requiring you to be 21, that's part of their plan policy. And violating your own 401k plan policy is bad news and they may have to compensate you additionally for their mistake. If HR isn't being helpful escalate to legal. If that doesn't work or you don't have a legal department point HR at the EPCRS ( and if they don't start the process in a timely manner escalate to the IRS yourself. Failure to be in compliance puts them at risk of having their 401k plan disqualified entirely.
Hey buddy, As a freelancer who doesn't know much about shit, I do know that my 1099s didn't have their taxes withdrawn, and you may be liable to pay taxes on that 1099 thats different from your other stuff, or may need to be reported on taxes differently, depending on your dependency. I would add a follow up question about that. Just looking out, but don't know much, cheers mate.
personalfinance
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Is it true that mortage lenders only look for the 4 C's? Capital, Collateral, Credit, and Capacity? Are there any other factors for first time buyers?
[I ran across this that details everything the lenders look at when going through the mortage process.]( I was wondering in your experience if there are any other factors that will weigh in on your mortage other than the 4 big C's?
Seems like a pretty meaningless saying to me. Pretty much every piece of information that is even arguably relevant to a loan is probably in some way connected to one of those categories - so saying those are the "only" factors that the lender looks at essentially eliminates nothing from consideration.
That's pretty thorough/accurate. They will want to see several seasoned tradelines with a good payment history on your credit report. If you've never had credit previously, it could potentially be problematic. Used to see this a lot with first-time buyers.
personalfinance
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Tenant lied, why? and what could or should I do?
I started renting a full home to a company that provides care and support for people with developmental disabilities. The company itself cares for one type of development disability. We were told by this company that they were renting the home and this type of disability(Down Syndrome) was going to be staying on my property. However, I was on my property today fixing a lock, and the young adults/teenagers, that were being cared for were not this type of disability. I received a payment from a company with a different name. It was still a youth care company, however, this company takes in troubled youth that need to be watched because of their troubled behaviour not there actual developed disability. I am not saying they have no disabilities, but they are not whom I assumed was staying in my rental. The company did not inform us any changes. They do not claim to be partners on any website. &x200B What do or should I do? I am still getting paid full. Though I believe they are higher risk of damages to the house.
So the tenant you rented to isn't the same entity that is sending you the checks?? Have you questioned them on this???? You better check that your lease actually prevents subletting.
It will probably be significantly quicker and possibly even cheaper to have an attorney handle this, but you could go to the city and see if they are even allowed to conduct this type of business at this location.
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Bought a put spread last week, expired ITM, but market opened up and I am stuck with a loss?
Wondering if someone could give advice on what to do or how to handle this in the future. This is on ToS btw. I bought a 187.5/182.5 put spread in HD last week. HD ended the week at 187.42. I thought the position would close automatically and I collect .08. However, I checked my positions today and found out I have -100 shares of HD. Not only that, the stock went up at open to 190. So now I am short the stock and have to close it or eat more losses as it climbs up? That really sucks. Is the best thing to do in these types of positions just to close them before expiration? Do I have any other plays here?
Yes, for any positions this close to being ITM it is best to close at least the short side before expiry. This must have occurred AH and perhaps this article may help in the future: You can sell a covered Put to help work your way back as a suggestion.
The first thing you have to understand is that yes, you bought the right (not obligation) at 187.5 to put shares to someone else, but your broker automatically exercised this contract for you (this is the default). If you don't want them to do that as the buyer, you have to tell them. What this means for you now is your broker bought 100 shares of HD at $187.5 and sent them along to whoever had the other side of your contract. Now you are short 100 shares of HD and owe your broker. The higher the price goes up now, the more you owe, so you need to watch this carefully and get out soon or otherwise hedge yourself. Next time, close the position on the day of expiry (or sooner). Take the money and run.
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Feeling financially behind in life
28yo F, good job but always struggling to save anything! People say you need to start thinking about your retirement plan, emergency savings fund, house deposit and my friends have fancy cars, luxury holidays, designer clothes and nice homes, some with children, but I haven't saved anything. I feel so behind! How do you actually save, what do you give up that actually makes a dint in your savings plan?
my friends have fancy cars, luxury holidays, designer clothes and nice home You may be surprised; I'd bet that they haven't saved anything because they're blowing their money on these things. Generally, high savers don't spend a lot on luxury goods. "The Millionaire Next Door" talks a lot about this, if you are interested. How do you actually save Figure out where your income is going now; make a full analysis of how every cent that you earn is spent. Find ways to reduce expenses; you may find that it will be pretty obvious depending on the result of the previous step. Now that you have lower expenses, save the left-over income. ??? Profit! Of course, if you don't already have an emergency fund, that should be the first thing that you save for - read the article and check out the flowcharts [here](
Saving is a habit. Once you start the habit, it does get easier......but the 1st step is the hardest. If you have a bank with a good online banking......setup an automatic transfer to a savings account. This way the habit is on auto pilot and you don't have to put a lot of thought into it.
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How to properly handle renting situation between family members?
My parents own two properties in BFE. Younger brother lives with them. Because of an IRS situation they can't sell one house for 2 years and the other for another 4. Over the last year I've gotten all of their immediate financial obligations in order, the IRS is no longer breathing down their neck, and they're moving so my mom can get a lung transplant. But my younger will be staying there. They won't be signing the house over to anyone yet, but in two and four years the houses will be signed over to me. They'll be putting the bills in his name so he'll responsible for them. I've encouraged them to look at creating a renter's agreement with my brother. tl;dr on the brother - he's an ungrateful fuck that was gifted a house worth about $30k as long as he cleaned out my dad's stuff. And he refused to do it because "I shouldn't have to clean the house, it's not my stuff." I know nothing about renting properties, I have googled it, but if anyone has any experience with a similar situation I'd love to hear what to avoid or do from this sub since it's been instrumental in helping me and my parents get back in a good spot. When they can finally gift the houses to me in a few years they will be sold and the money will go to my parents retirement account. My 28 year old brother will be kicked out, he'll have to fend for himself. Legally and ethically, what are my and my parents best options?
They need to write up a rental agreement/lease and have him sign it. Then he's legally considered a tenant and if he disobeys the terms of the lease you can have him evicted and he has no recourse.
When they can finally gift the houses to me in a few years they will be sold and the money will go to my parents retirement account. I'm a little confused. Why are they giving the houses to you so you can sell them and give the money back?
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ELI5: Why do people keep saying the Nordic nations (especially Sweden and Denmark) are heading into serious economic and financial issues in the coming years that might drastically reduce their standard of living?
If this is correct, what mistakes have they made and what wrong policies have they implemented down the years to trigger this?
The Nordic countries have created a very supportive social security and education system through employing a tax system that favours your everyday person. The issue is that this system funds itself a lot through the taxation of big business. Big businesses tend to think about profits and have discovered that the Nordic system does not favour their operations. As a result they move away. This leaves a lot of highly educated and experienced people without work. Sure, those laid off have nothing to worry about since the system has their back, but with major tax revenue gone the system has less income feeding it. All the time more and more people are dependent on it. You can see where this is going. Eventually, the profits won't be able to cover the costs. This is a gross simplification of the issue, but I hope you get a taster of what is happenning.
Who is saying this? What specifically are they saying? What evidence to they have to support what they are saying? At least a citation where you heard someone say this would be necessary to make this question answerable.
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Robinhood makes option trading literally retard friendly
Be me, get interested in the market and trading options. Spend hours watching YouTube videos and reading forums. I mean I even got 40 pages into my Intro to Options Trading book I ordered off of Amazon! Still have a very basic understanding of how they work. Last night while completely wasted I decided to sign up for option trading on Robinhood. Telling them that I had literally no experiance trading options, they obviously gave me permission to trade on their platform. Started reading their descriptions on option trading, everything started to click. I could literally feel the autism being pumped into my bloodstream via the app. Thanks to Robinhood, I have a complete understanding on how options work. They even have this neato graph with pretty colors on their discover tab that tells you everything you need to know! I am a goddamn expert at this. If I buy calls or puts, the worst that can happen is me losing my premium right????
Yes. For buys you can only lose your premium. If you are selling calls or puts you have to make sure have enough cash to cover if they exercise. Selling naked calls can be particularly risky since your risk is theoretically infinite. You sell a naked call on the wrong biotech stock right before they announce they cured cancer, and your only way out is the rope.
Username checks out. And that's funny, Fidelity told me "Hell no, boi!" when I applied for options and said I have 0 xp. I trade leveraged ETFs instead. But Robinhood would be like "No experience? No problem!"
wallstreetbets
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The_Pandemonium
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Hadron90
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f9ng2um
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[deleted]
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f9psk4b
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I just won $50,000. Trying to figure out the best use for the money...
Okay: $2,000 in credit card debt Student Loans: $3,150 @ 6.8% $4,900 @ 6% $3,000 @ 6% $34,500 @ 5.1% I can choose to have them take tax out or be liable for taxes next year. I rent and have a decent job. I need help figure out how I can pay the least in taxes as possible as well as deciding if I should throw all of it at my debt or not. Thanks!
We're taxes taken out already? That's important to find out. I suggest taking all of it and paying off all your debts 2k+3150+4900+3k+34500= 47550 That would leave you with 2450. Take that and save it. Then take the monthly payments you've been making on all those bills, and put it in savings every single month. You have lived with out it for this long, you can keep doing so. If taxes were not taken out of the 50k, that money you're saving up will also help with taxes for covering it
Quite simply, unless you believe you can invest the money to earn a better return than all your debt, just pay it all off. Regarding the taxes, if you think you can save the money through the rest of 2016 to pay a bill in early 2017, pay off the debt now. If you don't think you can, have them withhold and just pay off the debts as much as you can from highest rate on down.
personalfinance
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burnmoney
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energizerabby
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d1xuv9w
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GreenVisorOfJustice
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d1xx431
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Investment in teens/early twenties
Hi PF! Im currently at a position where I'm making enough money to have the option to invest maybe £100 (don't worry I've already put money in savings etc!) so I'm just wondering what useful tips do you have to help me start investing at a young age?
That early, it would be best to save cash to invest in your future. Education / College. OR, like others said, gym membership/quality of life etc. Look into personal finance books rather than investing books. Not spending an extra $5k on a car you don't need will make you better off than investing a few hundred dollars now. Early in life = savings rate more important than return on investments Find a career path you enjoy and get to it with little to no debt. If you still have money, follow the sidebar and invest in low cost mutual funds/etfs.
i would suggest investing in school or some form of education first so that you will have a better chance at earning more. that being said, try to make it a habit at putting down at least 10% of your earnings in your savings account for when you need it most.
personalfinance
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harrywr
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Rufio6
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coo56py
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OhitsSarah
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ELI5: If inflation hovers around 1%-3%, does a 2.5% raise at work just mean you're keeping up with inflation?
& if that's the case, does ones standard of living just remain constant? (assuming you stay at a 2.5% increase year-over-year)
More or less. Inflation is a measure of the average price of goods in an economy, so assuming your spending is relatively average with regards to category (food, rent, transportation) then your cost of living increases with inflation. As such, a raise of roughly the rate of inflation is just keeping you at the same level.
Yes, in theory, but it is much more complicated than that. For example, have we had inflation or deflation on phones? An iPhone can be $700. But it also replaces: stereo, TV, maps, compass, letters, and on and on -- well more than $700 worth of stuff. Home prices have gone way up, but if you measure "dollar per square foot per person", or "hours worked per square foot", housing prices are way down. And then there's all the things that didn't even exist in the past that are commonplace now. So while in the short term you are falling behind with your standard of living, in the long term your life will be far, far better even if you just hold steady.
explainlikeimfive
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mdrmoya
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WithMyxomatosis
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Amazon Stock? Smart to invest?
Hi, I am Lucas, I am 14 and I have wanted to invest for about a year and a half. Last night I got Stockpile, which allows you to buy fraction stocks. Right now I have enough to buy about 1.58% of a share, not 1.58 shares. Would this be a smart investment? I plan to put much more money when I get it. Amazon Stock has grown a LOT. Also I don't wanna hear shit about crypto here, just saying.
I wouldn't invest $25 if you have to pay a $1 fee. That's a 4% fee. When you sell you would have to pay another $1 fee. So that's 8% of your initial investment eaten up by fees. So this app looks great, but wait until you have enough to invest so that your fees would be below 1%. So for buy and sell that would be $2 in fees, $200 initial investment.
I was exactly like you when I was 14. It’s good that you’re interested in building a portfolio now. The first thing I did was learn how to look at charts. I learned about trends, support and resistance, and trend reversals. I zoomed way out on charts and found things with favorable risk:reward. Find a company that is still viable and earning but the price has been suppressed. Some good signs are spikes in volume which indicate accumulation. Also with $25 you may have more success by depositing into something like wealthfront. I use it and I’m very happy with it.
StockMarket
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LucasMediaGroup
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Why isn't Disney a buy?
Title says it all - at 17 P/E, it isn't terribly bubbly, massive market power, and the Marvel hype going on. Are there any reasons why this stock is a bit anemic at the moment?
People have mentioned ESPN already. The reason: ESPN makes up a higher portion of Disney's revenue than everything else combined. The parks, marvel, star wars... And ESPN is not doing well
Because when I want to watch sports I go on google and type in the sporting event I want to watch followed by “reddit live stream”, and I don’t have to pay for espn bullshit which is a huge piece of Disney
stocks
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MoonJaeIn
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josh4
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dvz4k3j
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WCat37
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dvzyryc
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Advice on how much $ to put in before selling
Bought house for 135k 3 years ago, realtor floated 160 as asking price. Need 155 from house as it is to break even. Carpets and paint not in great condition. Having new carpet installed next week for a little over 1800. Question is how much will paint affect the value? We have some drywall patches in kitchen ceiling, living room wall (small), and wall at top of stairs. We had a leak in the tub faucet a while back that required the holes in kitchen ceiling and top of stairs wall. We also have a dark purple "accent" wall that is the back wall of the house and wraps around the outside of kitchen counter. All paint could use a redo and fresh coat. Painter quoted 1500 for what I want to do, which is basically everything but the bedrooms, specifically making the large purple wall a lighter more neutral color. He also quoted 500 to just touch up the trouble spots. If we do the full paint job at 1500, is it going to be worth it considering we need 155 as is, and realtor wants to list at 160? We would need closer to 160 with these upgrades, so probably list at 165? Would new paint and carpet allow us to list 5k higher? Carpet replacement is already a done deal, paint is still up in the air.
It's unlikely anything you do will get you the money back, however, if the carpet is really shot then you might scare off some buyers if you don't do it. Personally I'd DIY the paint, you're too close to the break even point to be able to afford a painter. It's very risky that you will get that money back but you have to cover the repairs or you'll scare people off (and possibly cause problems for your appraisal...) Do the paint before the carpet shows up though. These are the kinds of things that may make your house more marketable, although it may not help it sell for more. This is a very location-dependent question. But even NAR admits nothing you do to a house returns $1 for every $1 you spend.
As little as possible, we paid to have the carpet cleaned and stretched. And new window screens, but in hindsight we could've done without it. And we paid for a little bit of painting.
RealEstate
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finkelton18
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dm37boi
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Redman_Goldblend
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dm3a34g
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Am I being too aggressive finding a job?
I am an engineering student and the summer break is here. During the summer, I like to be a server at restaurants so I can earn money fast. I also like working during the nights and having the mornings to my self. However, when I apply, I tell them I am available anytime and for long term employment. I applied to about 6 restaurants all ready. Its been 2 weeks since my job hunt and I have yet to get a call back for an interview. One technique I do is I wear professional clothes (dress shirt/pants, tie) and I cold call restaurants to see if they have any openings. If they do, I walk in, fill out an application, and sometimes I have an interview right there. I have had 3 interviews so far. I really need to start working again and I am getting nervous. No one has called me back yet. Is it ok if I start calling these places after a week to see if they can schedule a second interview or not? Is this too aggressive? Is it too aggressive if I wear my professional clothes and start walking in to upscale restaurants and ask to speak with a manager to introduce myself? I am bold enough to do this, but I don't know if this will hinder my chances. I am desperate for work. What can I do so I can be successfully employed quickly? There are 3 restaurants that I have applied to online. Is it too aggressive if I call them letting them know I applied online? What about if I just walk in and drop my resume off along with letting them know that I filled out the application online?
You are a college age student, and summer is coming up. They know you are seasonal the moment they see you. Lying about that probably doesn't get you any points.
Call them back, be persistent. 1 and done is not good enough. You have to follow up with them. You have to "remind" them to call you back and give you the job. Remember you are an engineering student, THAT MEANS NOTHING TO THE RESTAURANT, call them back and tell them you're are still interested and are just following up. When it comes to Restaurants, 9/10 the persistent candidate wins. Also, why the hell are you wearing a full suit to a Restaurant either? Bro go after an engineering intern if you wanna suit up for the app.
personalfinance
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thesquarerootof1
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Mainsil
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a51St1llFly
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Im 18 and im about to go homeless by Nov 3rd. My long term girlfriend broke up with me a fortnight ago, I was forced to drop out at 8th grade, I held my first job for 3 months when I was 16, and employers seem like they just don't want to hire me. Any advice I can get? What should I do? :(
Edit 2:28 PM: Im currently in NJ for those of you who asked/wondered. Edit 11:55 PM: Thank you Reddit for all your advice and help! My day went from unhappy and despair to feeling hopeful and full of spirit. Edit 10/25 10:41 PM: Spend the day filling out applications for restaurants and then turning them in. Frankly, I dont know why im still updating this post.
Do you have parents or other family or friends that you can move in with? Otherwise you're most likely going to have to look up what youth homeless shelters exist in your area & how you can get into them.
Get you GED or go back to finish. It will absolutely blow, but you will be better in the long run. (Do it via night achool if you have to.) Then college?
personalfinance
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paccom193
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lilfunky1
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dotnbpa
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RTwhyNot
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dotx3ji
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Investing $45k in taxable account - one time transfer or smaller monthly transfers?
Sold some company stock and have $45k in cash from the proceeds that I'd like to put into my personal investment account with Wealthfront. I think I recall some comments suggesting depositing smaller amounts over time rather than one large deposit (something about dollar cost indexing? idk...), but I can't recall exactly. My questions are: Is multiple smaller deposits spread out over time (say monthly) advantageous vs one single large deposit? If so, why? If the above is true, what is the "large" threshold? 20k? 50k? 100k? etc. Does my 45k meet said threshold? $45k doesn't seem large enough to worry about details like this and delaying investing it sounds to me like missing out on growth, but I wanted to check with the community because I've only been putting smaller monthly amounts into this account until now (potentially). FWIW this account of mine is roughly 35% US Stocks, 25% Foreign Stocks, 19% Emerging Markets, 10% Dividend Growth Stocks, 6% Municipal Bonds, and 5% Natural Resources. Thanks in advance!
Research has shown lump sum investing to generally be more advantageous than dollar cost averaging. Time in the market beats trying to time the market and all of that. However, if dollar cost averaging it into the market is what allows you to feel comfortable enough to actually put the money in, then by all means do so. The worst option would be to try to be perfect and then have fear stop you from doing either option.
I would say put it in over the course of the year. But, like you said it isn’t a huge amount unless you plan on pulling out soon. I did something similar with my Betterment account. Put it in the higher interest saver account (2% at the time). Then rolled it into two accounts, one aggressive and one that was more moderate each month for about a year. Seems to help level it out.
personalfinance
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butterscotchchip
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ElementPlanet
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Top 5 investing books in order?
I'm 21 and working for a company that requires me to do a lot of mindless work with my hands at the moment. I've got a lot of time and I can listen to my music or whatever while I work. I recently started listening to investing podcasts, started with money tree investing. They kept bringing up this book Outliers, a book my dad actually gave to me a long time ago and I never got to reading. Basically I found it on YouTube and downloaded the audio and listened to it in just a few days, got me thinking that I could actually learn a lot about investing while I work this mindless job. So like the title says, list your top 5 investing books in the order that you think I should listen to them! You get bonus points if I can find them for free.
The best investing books you probably won't be able to find in audio, because it's a hard medium for the subject, but here are five books that are important for investors that I know are available out there in audio... Fooling Some of the People All of the Time - David Einhorn Buffett: The Making of an American Capitalist - Roger Lowenstein (this one should be free out there) When Genius Failed: The Rise and Fall of Long Term Capital Management - Roger Lowenstein The Black Swan - Nassim Taleb The Most Important Thing - Howard Marks If this doesn't get you started, shoot me a PM and I'm sure I can think of some more.
I really think Jack Brennan's (of Vanguard) book "Straight Talk on Investing" should be mandatory reading high schools. It's so incredibly easy to understand for beginning investors and offers general personal finance advice along with it.
investing
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fall of chinese stocks
Any thought on the recent fall of the chinese stocks $NEW, $IQ, $BILI, $HUYA, $SOGO ? Do you think it is the effect of the tariffs or is just the backslash to the initial high rise?
I think that these stocks got completely hyped up, people were posting about them what seemed like every single day on here and some people chased hype/momentum without having a view on the companies. Momentum can turn swiftly and this is what that looks like. If someone has a long-term view on something like IQ, they're probably happy to potentially get further opportunities to add. If people were tourists and just followed hype and have no idea what they bought into and just bought because people were cheerleading it on here, those are probably some of the people continuing to sell that and other names today. The trade concerns are an aspect, but IQ was up 100% in a month; chase insane momentum like that and don't be surprised when the momentum stalls out and this happens.
Company | Symbol | Price | Daily Change | 52W Change :-------|:------:|:------:|:------:|:------: iQIYI Inc | IQ | 35.28 | -9.14% | N/A Bilibili Inc | BILI | 15.77 | -4.08% | N/A HUYA Inc | HUYA | 35.65 | -6.26% | N/A **[13-Week Price Moves]( - [52 Week Price Change]( - quote-bot by [echoapollo](
investing
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xcorgan
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echoapollo_bot
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Heloc as part of emergency fund
Hi- When I look at my emergency fund balance in a high yield savings account, I often wonder if I’m missing out by not putting that money to better use. Because I have a heloc available, does it make sense to reduce the amount of cash in the emergency fund to 2-3 months of living expenses and to redeploy the rest. That way, I’d still be able to cover myself for short term issues but could leverage the heloc if it ever was something beyond the 3 months. Yes, I know the first step is to stop looking at the balance in the emergency fund. Thoughts?
A lender on a HELOC can cancel without warning. Say if your ability to repay suddenly changes, if you lose your job, if the price of your house tanks, etc. You know, things that might coincide with an emergency. I think it's not a terrible idea as a backup. But it should be one tool among many. It can't replace a cash stash.
Makes sense to me ... just make sure you have plenty of equity in the home. Don’t want real estate prices to collapse and have a lender that won’t let you borrow when you need it most. I’ve done something similar. I keep a few months of cash available and a lot of months in a brokerage account in index funds. It would be terrible to sell equity ETFs in an emergency during a down turn, but I work in a stable industry and accept that risk.
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DanvilleDad
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Can someone please tell me who the hell thought that the tariff shit is a good idea? I am genuinely curious, i mean hasn’t the administration seen how badly the markets have reacted last few weeks?
This shit is getting exhausting. Its pretty apparent they(administration) don’t care. Please speak at the polls next time.
“I don’t hire a lot of number-crunchers, and I don’t trust fancy marketing surveys. I do my own surveys and draw my own conclusions.” - Donald Trump, Art of the Deal
Dude’s name is Peter Navarro. The Trump Administration somehow managed to find the two worst economists (Navarro and Cohn) in the entire Democratic Party and brought them into the White House.
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AllianceRebel
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Feeling overwhelmed and like a failure at 26.
Hi pf, I don't exactly know where to begin. I grew up very poor and was never educated on making smart financial decisions. I watched my mother literally destroy her future by making terrible choices and I've tried to avoid following in her footsteps, but I'm not perfect and I've made mistakes. I'm reaching out here to get advice on how to fix things. For the past few months, my financial situation has really started to spiral out of control and I'm so overwhelmed I don't know where I should start. I have a BA and got pregnant right out of college, so now I have an almost 2 year old as well as a husband. I managed to land a job making $43k but I was driving apprx. 100 miles a day, and I couldn't take the commuting stress anymore and my car started having problems so I left. Despite searching for months I wasn't able to find a closer job that pays that much. I'm starting a new job this Monday making about $33.5k. Removed husband's income for reasons explained in the comments. Here is a break down of my expenses. Monthly Bills/Debts: Rent, $1100 Internet, $70 Electric/Gas, $200 Phones, $170 Food, $200 Hul , $16 Car Payment, $255 ($12.8k total remaining balance) Student Loans, $321 (Total balance is like $35k, currently in forbearance and I'm going to have the payment recalculated) Personal Loan, $95 ($325 total remaining balance) Renters Insurance, $10.75 Credit Cards: Target, $650 Kohls, $150 Amazon, $500 Synchrony, $700 Misc: $90 in unpaid taxes Savings: $75 I feel so stupid and ashamed for wracking up the credit card debt and taking the personal loan. One thing I've learned about myself is that when I get stressed or anxious, I tend to spend money to feel better. I'm working to overcome this flaw. I haven't been able to pay the credit cards since July, and I've been too scared to call and talk to the companies (stupid, I know). My husband and I were fighting for a while, so I was trying to handle everything by myself. He has just started contributing again financially this past week, so I'm hoping that we can now get caught up and get rid of some of this debt. I really need help prioritizing this disaster and I would truly and deeply appreciate any input!
27k + 33.5k is a monthly take home of roughly $3,400 The expenses you listed total up to $2,438 So I'm sure on top of that you still have gas, car insurance and a number of other things? Right of the bat I see that you NEED to cut down your cellphone bill, you can be paying $60/month or less for two phones from Republic wireless, straight talk or project fi just to name a few. Also see if you can switch internet providers to cut the $70 down to less, I'm personally paying $20/mo. Next, gas/electric, any way you can run the AC less, leave less lights on? $200 is on the high side, depending on what climate you live in. So I've already found you in excess of $100 in savings each month. You've found a way to start paying less toward student loans, so there's more savings. With this money you need to get your CC's paid off. Make a list of highest to lowest interest rates for the cards and pay off the one with the highest rate and pay the minimum on the rest, keep this up till they are all paid off. If you are able to put $200/mo toward them you'll be able to pay them off within a year. You may be able to do more? Your budget has a savings rate of almost $1000/mo, did you miss some expenses?
Don't think you listed car ins. but that stuff can be gauging. What are you currently paying/ with who? I recently switched to geico and cut my bill from 400 to 130
personalfinance
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My wife got a job as a 1099 employee. Should she start a business?
My wife is a psychologist and is a contract worker. She'll earn around 50k a year based on clientele. What makes sense for her to do tax-wise? Should she start a business? Stay individual? I don't know a ton about it and plan on talking to a CPA but I'd like to have an idea as to what we might talk about before we meet.
If she is an independent contractor(if she recieves a 1099, then she is generally an independent contractor, assuming the 1099 issuer is properly classifying her as an independent contractor), she has a business for tax purposes and should file a Schedule C and Schedule SE with her tax return. She could form a legal business entity for liability/legal purposes, but for income tax purposes, it is treated as a business already. Edit - To add, she might want to confirm if she actually meets the IRS defintion of an independent contractor or employee. See the below link for more info:
The ideal business structure depends on your goals. How much of the 50k do you want to put towards retirement? To maximize that amount you need to maximize salary, and there is little advantage in starting a separate pass-through entity. If you don't want to maximize retirement contributions and your wife can reasonably take a salary less than $50k, then there is some potential payroll tax savings in having a separate entity. In the $50k range the savings may not be worth the hassle.
personalfinance
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How to cope with not keeping up eith the jones'?
24yr old M make about 45k before taxes. Soon to be debt free (3700 left to pay) I have 2 forclosed homes that are a "work in process". We are really pumping money into one of them right now and will hopefully be done soon. Then i can marry my fiance and move out. (One house is for my parents). I've recently said myself a very strict budget with money that goes straight into the house and money that goes directly into my savings really trying to establish that and manage my spending but the problem is I drive a beat-up truck that I can fix so I don't need one but I feel a lot of negativity towards the fact that all my friends around me have nice cars and I don't it's really starting to drag me down my fiance is not materialistic and neither are any of my family but it really really grinds me some times. How do you deal with not buying something that you want? Or trying to get a newer vehicle without needing it? (Sorry if this comes off as a humble brag but I do find myself really struggling to keep my head on right my plans are good but my wants are starting to get the better of me) and to make matters worse I am selling my very nice motorcycle so that I can fund my house project a lot faster.
So you're ahead of the Smiths at least. And they're ahead of the Browns. One day you'll catch the Joneseses and then you'll be trying to keep up with the Gateseses. Be happy with what you have, that's the only way. You can strive for better of course.
I grew up below the poverty line, rarely made purchases that were wants, even now that I'm out of college and making money, my mom refuses to let me buy household items (vacuum, pots, etc.) that are older than me (27M) because they still technically work. I've become so use to this that if anything, I have trouble spending money. I might end up spending a few hundred dollars on black friday and ultimately return 80% of the purchases.
personalfinance
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20% house down payment???
Hello All, I am considering buying my first house this year. Once I get my bonus from work in March, I should have enough for about a 10% down payment, closing costs, and moving costs, while maintaining an emergency fund. If I wait another 8 to 12 months, I could probably have enough for a 20% down payment (but I would rather not wait). I have been living in a one room studio apartment for the last 4 years while paying off my student loans. I'm ready to move, and quite honestly I feel as if the rental market is overpriced in my area (especially when compared to the price of buying) so moving to a larger apartment does not really seem to make sense. My current rent is $800 per month and I'm looking at houses in the $100k to $150k range. Is there anything fundamentally wrong with the strategy of buying with about 10% down and paying extra throughout the first year to build my equity up to 20% and get out of PMI? Are there any other disadvantageous to a sub-20% down payment other than PMI and a potentially higher interest rate? Thanks!
You need to check the fine print on whatever mortgage you get. Some mortgages require that PMI stay on for at least 5 years and the new FHA loans state that PMI cant be removed. Keep in mind that you can borrow from your 401k for your first mortgage down payment. Does buying in your area make sense as far as your career is concerned? If you lost your job after a year, would you have to move? Can you picture yourself living in that location for at least 5 years?
There is some trickery you can do with the sale price. You'd have to ask your real estate agent, but a common theme down south where I live is to ask for money from the seller. It's odd, but people do it. So say someone is asking price 135k. If you can get them to agree to 125k, but still buy it at 135k and have them give you 10k back at closing.. You'd still of course need 20ish k to make the 20% but it's an option to explore.
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5 reason real estate investors need attorneys?
Folks, can anyone give me 5 reasons that real estate investors need attorneys? The first one I can think of is to conduct closings. Then do foreclosures. But after that, my mind goes blank. Thanks in advance.
There's a difference between when you should use an attorney and why you should use an attorney. It sounds like you want to know when but you should know why before asking when. So why use an attorney in real estate? Real estate law can be complicated and can vary a lot between states, counties and even cities within counties. There's a lot to know and there isn't an expectation that anyone should know everything (including attorney's too). Wait? Did I just say attorneys don't know everything? Yes, yes I did, because they don't. BUT, attorneys are professionally liable for the guidance and information they give to their clients. That means if they screw up you can sue them for giving you bad or incorrect guidance that damages you in some way. Hiring an attorney is like taking out an insurance policy on a contract or transaction you are doing. They are required by law and their bar association to have your best interest as their priority. So now that we've talk about the why it's easier to see when an attorney can/should be used. Any time you sign a contract or enter into an agreement where you are expected to perform some sort of action expecting something in return, it may be a good idea to consult an attorney. In real estate there are a lot of situations where we do the above and usually there's a lot of money or some other asset in play. Having someone who's advising you on these situations who is professionally liable for their advice gives you an extra layer of insurance on the contract/deal/agreement.
It really depends on the state. Some require an attorney for closing paperwork, while in other states that is all handled by title companies. Other than that, the other reasons should be obvious. Evictions, contract issues, lawsuits, etc.
realestateinvesting
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Is the 17.5K limit for 401Ks per person or per household?
This is a pretty simple question, but google isn't really turning up the answer for me. The wife and I both have 401Ks, and we're looking to contribute as much as we can. Is that limit per person or per household? Additional question - Is the 17.5K limit based on your salary (I contribute 17.5K and my employer matches for some amount) or based on the total (The amount I contribute PLUS employer matching is a total of 17.5K)? Thanks for the help!
The limit is per individual, so you and your wife (if you both maxed out your 401k contribution space) would be able to contribute $17.5k each for a total of $35k. Employer contributions do not count towards the individual limit.
It is $17.5k per working person. And it's the same amount regardless of income. For example, I don't work so we can only contribute $17.5k into my husband's 401k this year, and we can do one Roth IRA account.
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Sister needs a $23,000 loan
My family has a history of making poor financial decisions. This has trickled down to my sister not learning good financial strategies. She bought a 2018 car, with all the bells and whistles, that costs her \~$435/month for 60+ months. My sister does not even make $1,000/month, so you can see how that is terrible for her while in school. She recently missed a payment and had her car repossessed. The bank wants her to buy the car in full for $23,000, and they will not accept a catch-up payment. To ensure she does not get stuck with the loan an no car, my family got approved for a home equity loan. However, the home-equity loan takes thirty days to process, and the car is going to auction on January 13th. To ensure she does not lose the car, my family wants me to take out a $23,000 personal loan. They will pay me back with the home-equity loan. I am on the edge of telling my family that I cannot do this because my sister already failed out of college with student loans that I co-signed for. I am afraid that something will happen, and I will be stuck with a $23,000 personal loan that I cannot pay for. So, what would you suggest I should do for my sister, my family, and for myself? Any advice for myself or my sister is deeply appreciated! EDIT I appreciate the advice from everybody! I have decided not to go through with the loan, and I want to get a plan to present to my family, so we can do what is best for all parties. EDIT 2 The consensus is overwhelming, and I agree with everybody here. This is going to be some tough love, and I know this will hurt my relationship with my family. However, the right thing to do is get my sister on the right financial path, and, if I am lucky, I can help my family get on the right path too. I will be freezing my credit, so you may all put your minds at ease. Thank you to everybody who has given advice and some tough love!
I am on the edge of telling my family that I cannot do this because my sister already failed out of college with student loans that I co-signed for. I am afraid that something will happen, and I will be stuck with a $23,000 personal loan that I cannot pay for. So, what would you suggest I should do for my sister, my family, and for myself? Any advice for myself or my sister is deeply appreciated! Fool me once... You've admitted your family makes bad financial decisions. Don't take financial advice from them. Your sister is not the first person to have a car repoed. Let her live with the consequences of her actions.
Good lord... You're going to take out a loan, to pay a loan, to pay a loan? Do you see the problem here!?!? If there is no way she can catch up on payments, then let the car get repossessed and sold off. I know that sounds horrible, but your family needs to learn this lesson. I have actually had a car repossessed before. It's scary, but what's going to happen is after they sell the car at auction (for less than $23,000) your sister, or whoever the poor sap who cosigned, is going to get the bill for the remaining amount. DO NOT get a loan to pay that off. Save the cash up. Here's why. It will almost immediately going to go to collections because the bank thinks if she couldnt pay her car payment, she definently cant pay $10,000+ in a reasonable amount of time. You start saving the cash and make offers to the collections company, and once you strike a deal and get it in writing, you can probably get rid of this debt for significantly less than she actually owes. DO NOT try to keep the car. It sounds like none of you guys can afford it.
personalfinance
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So, I have roughly $2800 in debt.. and I'm 17.
Hi. I really hope this is the right subreddit x.x; I'm 17 years old, and I am gearing up for my FAFSA and loans soon. My dad decided to show me how to check my credit and get a credit report whilst we were talking about managing money and whatnot. I had left for a bit, until he calls me into the room, staring at his computer- I, with my social security number, have debt from 2005-2006, which roughly amassed to $2800. We have no idea how this happened, so he printed out the entire report for me. I got home to my mom, asked what the hell, and apparently we had our 'identities stolen'. I am the only one affected by this- her debt is just from her own skeletons in the closet. I digress. I'm not sure what information helps you out, but the first bit of debt, I guess, is $1,924.78 with the original creditor from Capital One bank, and now it says my account is owned by 'LVNV Funding LLC'. The second is from HSBC Bank from Nevada, N.A for $755.02, and also held by 'LVNV Funding LLC'. Basically, I'm asking 'what do?' I'm rather lost and confused on how to get this settled, considering I was what- eight? nine? - When these accounts were opened up. They've provided a number for me to call them, but I was told I had to wait until I was 18 to do so. My college applications are February 15th, next year. FAFSA starts January 1st. My Birthday is January 19th. No one has given me any clear answers and I'm worried about what this will do towards loans and stuff, all for college. Will having a negative credit score really screw me over before I even began? How long does this stuff take to go through? Anything that helps would be greatly appreciated. [edit] Thank you everyone who gave me advice!
Place a fraud alert on your credit reports, and review your reports. Fraud alerts can help prevent an identity thief from opening any more accounts in your name. Contact the toll-free fraud number of any of the three nationwide consumer reporting companies to place a fraud alert on your credit report. You need to contact only one of the three companies to place an alert. The company you call is required to contact the other two, which will then place an alert on their versions of your report. TransUnion: 1-800-680-7289; Fraud Victim Assistance Division, P.O. Box 6790, Fullerton, CA 92834-6790 Equifax: 1-800-525-6285; P.O. Box 740241, Atlanta, GA 30374- 0241 Experian: 1-888-EXPERIAN (397-3742); P.O. Box 9554, Allen, TX 75013 Source: /consumer/idtheft/idt07.shtm
Maybe I'm just not understanding, but why do you think this is a case of identity fraud? Typically a credit report is based off of SSN. Wouldn't it just be possible that someone used your SSN a few years ago, without attempting to take over your identity? It's even possible that maybe someone used the wrong SSN by accident. You shouldn't have to take too many steps. Call the bank, and tell them that you are listed as having an account with them on your credit file. They will search for the account by SSN. If it's not your name, just tell them to remove the SSN from the account and update it with the correct SSN. It will then be removed from your credit file.
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I'm a quadriplegic who has $380,000. Is it worth using Merrill Lynch for a 1% management fee?
I am a 41 -year-old quadriplegic and I received some money for damages. I started the portfolio with Merrill Lynch in October of 2005 and since then it has appreciated approximately 5.21% a year since then. The rate of return of the S&P 500 since October 2005 is 8.46%. I have a balance of 65% stock and 35% bonds which is invested in a mix of mutual funds, bonds funds, and ETF's. I'm wondering if I'm just better off putting it all into the S&P 500. I'm nervous to manage my money so I was thinking about index funds, but I just don't know if it's worth paying Merrill Lynch 1%. I plan to withdrawal approximately $10,000 the year for the foreseeable future. Should I continue with Merrill Lynch? Many thanks in advance.
Please don't listen to any of this. You're not a 30 year old who is saving for retirement. You're in a very different position. Vanguard DIY to save one percent means you become your own planner and portfolio manager. You need a specific rate of return with as little risk as possible. It's possible Merrill is doing a better job of that even after taking their cut. You can't compare your performance to anything without providing exact holdings and your portfolio mandate. This is a great example of when not to take advice on the internet. Paying someone 1% to help you build a mandate and manage your risk is entirely reasonable.
I'm not an investor yet or traditionally so I may not have any business giving advice but I've been looking at Charles Schwab for when I finally get some debts taken care of and I have enough saved. In my city at least you can open an account with them for 1000 dollars minimum. They still charge fees on what you earn and all that (I think) but it might be something to look into. What the others are saying about managing the money conservatively is probably good advice for anyone I'd think.
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Best questions to ask during an interview with a brokerage?
Im in the process of getting my real estate license and in order to prepare, I've decided to apply for administration assistant positions. During my interview process I have been completely upfront about wanting this position to gain some behind the scenes knowledge and eventually become a salesman. I recently interviewed for one position (it would be for a small brokerage that focuses on commercial real estate) and both myself and the owner are completely on the same page about preparing me to transition after I receive my license. My first interview with him lasted almost 3 hours! He explained a little more about the details of the position, the company, etc, and I asked a lot of questions (probably about 15). However, my second interview is coming up with the him and his partner and he very instant that I have more than 15 additional questions prepared. Im all for asking questions, but that seems excessive. Here are some examples of questions I have asked, or will ask in my next interview: Do you have a plan in place to target certain markets? Specifically upcoming markets. If cannabis becomes legal there will a tons of shops popping up. Do you have any plan in place to target that market and make it a smoother sale? How long does it take to close an average deal? With a buyer/with a seller? Is there any point where a buyer or seller was working with you and then they chose to stop the relationship - if so, why? Have you ever stopped the relationship with a client - if so why? What are some of the craziest tactics you have done to get your foot in the door? What is the longest client relationship you have had? What will be some of my responsibilities? How will communication work between myself and the partners? What is the average price of a building you sell? How many sales does the average salesman get in their first year? How much does your average salesman make? On average, how many clients become repeat clients? How do you keep the connection with them over the years? What areas do most people struggle in? What areas do you see most people excel in? Where do you see the company in 5 years? Where do you see yourself in 5 years? Since this position is new for your company, where do you see it going in the next 3 - 5 years? Are there conferences you attend annually? Or plan to attend? How is the idea that "amazon is taking over and stores no longer need a store front" effect your business? How do you advertise? What other quality questions would be good to ask? Again, the owner said about three or four times that I needed more questions for my second interview. Thanks!
What are your commission splits? What percentage do you offer to your private money investors? What percentage do you give me when I bring you a new private money investor? Do you lend to other investors? If so what is the percentage that you charge for lending?
Ask how much desk fees are if they have them How much is the franchise fee if there is one Ask how much their monthly advertising fees are & if they have one ask how much your commission split will be.
RealEstate
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Why would someone buy a negative interest rate bond?
Is there an aspect to this I'm missing? From what I've read you invest in the bond, and when it matures, you get less money back. So where's the appeal?
If you have a lot of money, past what will be insured as a bank deposit, and you need it to remain nearly that same amount for years while maintaining some liquidity, what would your other options be?
Buy it then swap it out through the cross currency swap market for USD. Due to FX forward rates and basis spreads between JPY and USD swap curves you'll get a positive yield.
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In 2010, Michael Burry revealed that he was betting big on agricultural land with water on-site. How is his investment looking now?
He was buying up the raw land directly, not via any instrument.
This was the investment reasoning as stated by Burry in an interview and it's not even known whether he still owns what he invested in (some have said he invested in almonds, which does fit with the food/water thesis below, as almonds require serious water) in this regard. "The last line of the movie, printed on a placard, is “Michael Burry is focusing all of his trading on one commodity: Water.” It sounds very ominous. Can you describe this position to me? Fundamentally, I started looking at investments in water about 15 years ago. Fresh, clean water cannot be taken for granted. And it is not — water is political, and litigious. Transporting water is impractical for both political and physical reasons, so buying up water rights did not make a lot of sense to me, unless I was pursuing a greater fool theory of investment — which was not my intention. What became clear to me is that food is the way to invest in water. That is, grow food in water-rich areas and transport it for sale in water-poor areas. This is the method for redistributing water that is least contentious, and ultimately it can be profitable, which will ensure that this redistribution is sustainable. A bottle of wine takes over 400 bottles of water to produce — the water embedded in food is what I found interesting." (from:
Funny you bring this up because there was a recent WSJ article yesterday on almond investing. I've provided an excerpt below: ============= In the Australian state of New South Wales, Harvard University is developing around 1,480 acres of former potato fields and other farmland, building a new dam and planting trees that will take about three years to bear their first edible crops. It is part of a growing bet on almonds by the college’s endowment, which is adding to around 1,235 acres of almond plantations it already owns near a township called Hillston. Hundreds of miles away, Harvard is trying to sell an Australian sugar-cane plantation that it bought in 2016 and recently disposed of a dairy farm in New Zealand. Almonds are shaping up to be a more lucrative endeavor for pension funds, endowments and other institutions with very long-term investment horizons. Global production of the oval-shaped tree nut is forecast to hit a record 1.3 million metric tons this year, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
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What's the point to adding bonds to a Roth IRA if I'm investing until I'm 65?
The way I see it, if I'm going to have my Roth IRA until I'm 65, why not just go for maximum gains? I don't care about huge downturns, I just care what my money will be by the time I'm old. I believe doing something like 100% SPY or 100% VTI sounds like I'll have way more gains than if I had a portfolio with bonds, but I see a lot of advice on having a "balanced" portfolio for your risk tolerance in a Roth IRA. Is the purpose of having it balanced/diversified just so in case of emergencies you can withdraw your contributions and not end up being -50% down during a downturn/recession?
Used to wonder the same. After cross referencing leaders in the field and reading their books closely, I found that they want you to add bonds so that you don’t experience as much as a decline when stocks suck. Bonds generally do better when stocks are doing bad. It takes a strong willed individual to ride out the downturns and in reality there’s no avoiding it anyway. As you age and thus need to rely on your retirement portfolio, increasing your bond holdings makes sense because you don’t really have time to ride out the market ups and downs. It largely depends on your personal situation and risk tolerance.
I'm 70 and my investments are 100% stocks. I do keep $50k in cash and CD's though. So not fully invested. Bonds have a cycle like most investments and now is not the time for bonds.
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Do I lower my 401k contribution to save for a house downpayment?
Saving for a house is a priority right now, but obviously contributing to my 401k is important. Do I lower my contribution in order to be able to save more for a down payment? Or is it more important to contribute as much as possible to my 401k? (If i lower, I wouldn't go below the max company match because I don't want to give up that free money).
if i lower, I wouldn't go below the max company match because I don't want to give up that free money Sounds reasonable. If you want a house, it's OK to divert some funds. Alternatively look at a Roth IRA to hold the money instead in a low risk fund. You can pull all contributions penalty and tax free, and avoid the early withdrawal penalty on the gains when using the money for your first house.
Yup. I prioritized my student loans over my 401(k). Now that I paid off my student loans, a house down payment is the 1 thing in my life and I'm not changing my 401(k) contribution until it's done.
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RIM changes its name to Blackberry, will trade as BBRY. Alicia Keys announced as Global Creative Director. Q10 and Z10 announced.
What do you think? Is RIM (or, Blackberry) finally getting their shit together?
i was surprised at the significant drop today. (though i am prejudiced, as i'm long). i bought some lottery ticket calls expiring friday, hoping for a bounce back to pre-release levels by then. longer term, i'm long about 10% of my portfolio in shares at $15.
I don't see that they are offering anything Apple and Android aren't already offering. Unless they have some advantage over the big boys I'm completely missing I don't think they'll be a real competitor in the market.
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Ray Dalio explains how the economy works and how interest rate affects it
Just came across Ray Dalio's youtube account by luck and watched his video on how the economy works which I thought was very insightful and well explained, especially how the central bank uses interest rate to keep the economy under control. Would recommend subscribing and watching his other youtube series too! Hopefully this helps someone out there [ray dalio explains the economy and interest rate]( Side note: who else thinks he has a sexy voice?
With the new tax plan, we're now experiencing massive deficit spending during a more massive economic boom. A huge tool traditionally only used to prop up a deflationary economy is now being used to extend a growing economy.
Incidentally, does anyone know if there are any good takes on this by academic economists? As in, where it generally falls in terms of different schools of economic thought, where it disagrees with orthodoxy and how (and what the orthodoxy says about those disagreements), that sort of thing. I checked for mentions of Dalio on /r/askeconomics and they seem only [partially]( [impressed]( ... but [the one mention of Dalio ever]( that Reddit's search found on /r/badeconomics turns out to basically be exactly what I asked for, just really brief. I would love to read a more detailed take because it's really annoying to keep seeing links to something called "How the economic machine works" and not really know enough economics to be able to be properly critical of it.
investing
5
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null
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theGreenishGiraffe
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t3_bkqu2a
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lulzcakes
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emj2jzz
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Ari_Rahikkala
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emk2pv5
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Anyone use "envelope method" with a credit card? If so, how do you do it?
I want to reign in some of my spending (especially food); it's not disastrously high, but I want more to show for what I make. The envelope method sounds like a good one to me, but I don't want to miss out on credit card points. Anyone have experience with this? Tips or suggestions? I'm assuming the best way is to buy visa/amex gift cards with the cc, but I've never had one before and I've heard of issues with them being accepted. Also, I'm afraid of always leaving a small balance on the card at the end of every week or month. Any suggestions or recommendations?
I found YNAB very good for this, since when you make a credit card transaction you're in effect taking money out of the virtual envelope immediately. They have a free trial if you wanted to see what you think of it.
I second using Mint budgets, which you can customize however you want. Be sure to set their alerts so they yell at you over email or text message if you hit your budget in any category.
personalfinance
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theBullMousse
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FacelessBureaucrat
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I just did my taxes and ended up owing on my 2016 taxes. Turbotax says I can contribute to an IRA and deduct... Help/suggestions?
Hello everyone, As the title suggests, I just started my taxes for last year and found out I owe about $1500. I ran a calculator on the IRS website last year and it recommended for my situation (married with no children) that I should claim a 2 on my W4 allowances as this would provide a good balance between a larger check coupled with a smaller return. Well, as you can see, this backfired on me, and now I'm stuck owing the IRS more money instead of getting a return. While I am nearing the end of my taxes, Turbotax requested my permission to check and see if I would qualify for an IRA. This message appeared: Based on your info, you can save on taxes this year with an IRA. Opening and contributing to an IRA (individual retirement account) by April 18, 2017, is an easy way to deduct up to $5,500 on your taxes this year and set yourself up for a brighter future. I know what an IRA is and currently do not have one but I'm trying to understand this message and how it applies to my taxes for this year. Basically what it boils down to is I would MUCH rather my money go to an IRA rather than the IRS. Is this a dollar-for-dollar deduction or how does this work and how could it help me in my current predicament? Thank you for your help.
basically, you pay up to $5500 out of pocket and put it into an IRA. then you can deduct the same amount you contributed. this won't translate into a direct 1:1 dollar deduction from the taxes you owe. since you likely pay 25% taxes, each dollar you contribute to the IRA will allow you to pay 25 cents less on taxes. since you owe $1500, you need to contribute $6000 to owe $0. (but 5500 is the max for IRA, so you'll still owe a small amount)
I have w-2 wages and self-employment income. I am unable to contribute to an IRA from my workplace. Can I not take advantage of this tax credit using net pay I have already received?
personalfinance
13
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BaconMcShitlord
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jaksblaks
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Duped by my aunt and Primerica
Well, I was that idiot who didn't t use reddit like I should have, and looked up more things about Primerica before investing. Back track my Aunt is a very good lady who's had a great track record of her own personal finances. She helped me when I was in high school to invest and save and by the time I was 22, I was able to buy a nice little home for myself and daughter. So when she said here's a way to invest more money I thought SURE! WELL I AM STUPID. Now that I've spent over ten hours reading horror stories and realized I've wasted close to $1000, I need help. How to I just end my relationship with Primerica and also not hurt my aunt? TL;DR How to I remove myself and finances from Primerica?
Your hurting her more by not telling her what's up. If shes reasonable and intelligent giving her the facts should wake her up. Do it in a caring manner. If she doesnt see it and gets mad at you well I dunno, other option is to lie and pretend
What is scaring you off from Primerica? It’s not an MLM scam if we’re being honest. It’s a general agency like any other. Same setup and pay structure for the reps as Northwestern Mutual just with different products and systems in place. When I was a kid, my mama taught me that I shouldn’t jump off of a bridge just because my friends were doing it. I think the same thing applies here. If your investments are returning well then why would you change them? If they’re not returning well, perhaps you should have a conversation with the investment advisor at the company. My advice, don’t believe everything you read in the internet. Do your own research, check your own portfolio, and make an educated decision. Moving investments and insurance companies because you read some things on Reddit doesn’t seem well enough thought out to me. No offense.
personalfinance
5
9
null
null
null
SwankySiren
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1,560,443,052
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t3_b9enzn
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Jack2423
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ek3yz9z
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dickieh2
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ek4zyuf
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22, got my first job, How should I save to move out and pay off my loans?
So after months of interning and freelancing, I just got a full-time job. My salary is 50K and I have 28K in student loans to pay off. I've been making monthly payments of $297 since December. I live at home with my parents in South Brooklyn and commute to my office in Soho, which takes about 40 minutes. I know realistically it's better to stay with my parents since NYC rent prices are insane, but I'd really like some independence. I'd be willing to live with roommates, but I also have no idea what my rent range should be? With my modest salary and student loan debt, how can I start to save up to move out? Is it possible to move out by the end of the year?
There comes a time when every bird has to leave the nest. You want some freedoms, and that's perfectly reasonable/normal. That said, living with your parents, while having a real job is a once in a lifetime opportunity. If your relationship with your parents isn't just outright terrible, I would seriously spend some time trying to talk yourself into staying a bit longer. With a good budget, and 18 months time, you could move out with a very nice nest egg, and $0 in debt. That is a powerful gift to yourself. Whether you're moving out in 2 weeks, or are willing to take that 18 months, I would definitely consider getting roommates. You live in one of the most expensive real estate areas in the country. Splitting those costs 2 or 3 ways, can really help with that.
50K is about 4.2K/month, so your target max rent range is 1100-1400/month, depending what your other sorts of bills are.
personalfinance
6
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picsturb
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alek_hiddel
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d1fs4jz
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null
Can a provider charge a fee "outside" of my policy?
Hi all, I have Aetna insurance at Work with an HSA. My wife had our 3rd child this year and because of the bills, we met our out-of-pocket maximums for the year. My son's head is slightly mis-shapen (he's 4 months old) so we went to an Orthotic that was recommended by our primary care physician (they wrote a prescription for an evaluation) for a corrective helmet. The orthotic is in-network with Aetna. anyway, when I go in to the office they tell me there is a $50 office visit charge. I tell them I don't want to pay that because I've already met my max out of pocket for the year. She tells me "insurance companies won't pay this but i'll put it through anyway". Aetna denies the claim a few days later, so I call and ask Aetna. They tell me the charge is put through with some medical billing code that basically means "do not pay this' and it was also labeled as a Home Visit. Aetna told me I should be covered, and to have the Orthotic company re-bill this as an Office Visit (which is what it was). I call the orthotic back and she says it's standard practice that they invoice the $50 because Aetna won't pay the Office Visit charge (Despite what the office says to me). She then tells me the office visits take them time and it's not "fair for me to expect them to do the analysis for free, since some people don't actually qualify or get the helmets". (FWIW, my son DOES qualify and IS getting the helmet, which "includes all future office visits" and costs over $2,000. I feel like this is sketchy of the orthotic. It's only $50, which I can afford, but something about the whole thing seems weird to me. They were booked out weeks in advance and our appointment was only 15 minutes when we were there so it feels to me like they are basically just assuming they can take in probably an extra $500 + per day to the office if they only have 10 visits a day, which they probably have way more than that. Am I missing something here?
I'm in healthcare benefits administration, and this is fraudulent billing, which can cause this provider to be charged with fines, be registered as an offender, and can have insurance company contracts cancelled. It's a big deal. If you're in the states, contact Aetna and your state's Department of Health Fraud Department. You can find contact info for these departments at NHCAA.org It may be a small amount of money from you, but they may be doing this on a larger scale, and it can cause future claims to be denied for yourself and for others, or to be retro-billed (i.e. claim is approved, services rendered, then claim denied by insurance causing the patient to owe the amount later or be sent to collections, etc., which may be really detrimental for some patients). It can turn into a big legal mess if left unchecked. Do yourself and your community a favor and report it. It's rather low impact for you, as the patient (or caregiver) to report. You just lookup the #, call and give them the details, and you're done. Then the fraud agencies are responsible for the legwork and investigations.
If their contract with Aetna specifies they can’t do that, it’s their fault for signing the contract. There are a few reasons you could be on the hook, like if this was a valid code and Aetna said it was not medically necessary. But they have to bill it properly as an office visit and get a rejection before you even consider such things.
personalfinance
16
42
null
null
null
hallo_its_me
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null
t3_eb8fmq
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OrneryPanduhh
null
fb3h2vy
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wildtimes3
null
fb3otmc
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Turbotax cant file because someone else already filed.
I guess someone filed under my social security number before me and so I can't file. TurboTax says to file paper and I'll get a form back from the IRS. Is that really all I can do for now?
If you are a victim of identity theft, the Federal Trade Commission recommends these steps: File a complaint with the FTC at identitytheft.gov. Contact one of the three major credit bureaus to place a ‘fraud alert’ on your credit records: Equifax, 1-800-766-0008 Experian, 1-888-397-3742 TransUnion, 1-800-680-7289 Contact your financial institutions, and close any financial or credit accounts opened without your permission or tampered with by identity thieves. If your SSN is compromised and you know or suspect you are a victim of tax-related identity theft, the IRS recommends these additional steps: Respond immediately to any IRS notice; call the number provided or, if instructed, go to IDVerify.irs.gov. Complete IRS [Form 14039, Identity Theft Affidavit]( if your efiled return rejects because of a duplicate filing under your SSN or you are instructed to do so. Use a fillable form at IRS.gov, print, then attach the form to your return and mail according to instructions. The normal processing time to resolve a tax related ID Theft case is generally within 120 days, but complex cases may take 180 days or longer. Continue to pay your taxes and file your tax return, even if you must do so by paper. After you file your federal return, the only IRS number you should call is 1-800-908-4490, M - F 7am - 7pm local time.
I had this happen last year. It was a horrible experience. I had to file the police reports for the identity theft. They recommend that you change any passwords associated with your financials. This includes student loans, credit cards, 401k, etc. The reason is that your tax application has all of your passwords, such as mother's maiden name, work info, along with your ss#, dob, address, email address, and anything else you'd usually use to lock the account.
personalfinance
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Anon_8675309
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these-things-happen
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d1n4zoe
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shesosunny
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d1njhrh
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I need to break up with a Realtor. What do I do?
My fiance and I are looking to purchase a house before we get married in September. We've already calculated income, had the proper discussions about what happens if one of us leaves the other at the alter, talked to lenders etc. Our mistake, however, has been using a realtor who we stumbled into by accident. We are FTHBs, so we're inept and clueless. I foolishly hit the contact agent on Zillow and we've been stuck with him about a month. We haven't signed a contract with him. He doesn't send us many listings, and when he does, they have hardly any relation to what we are looking for or in the right neighborhoods. He's also advised we offer full asking price on any home we've liked so we're likely to get our closing costs covered by the sellers. We've looked at dozens of houses and are feeling like we're wasting our time with this guy. Again, we haven't signed a contract, but I don't know how to go about breaking up with this Realtor. What do I do?!
Call him and let him know you no longer need his services. It's really that simple. If you want to make the conversation easier, feel free to lie. Say that you personally would LOVE to keep working with him but instead your fiancee is forcing you to work with a friend/relative of hers. "you know, the old ball and chain, amirite?" It's not necessary, but if it makes you feel better then go ahead.
He doesn't send us many listings He may have several flaws, but I want to educate you a little bit on this so that with that realtor or any realtor your expectations are kept in check. Realtors are not gatekeepers of info any more. We have as much access to data and listings as much as the public (disclaimer-this might be market specific). In markets where Redfin has a presence, the public has as much access to data as realtors. Realtors get their info from the MLS, its a database where all relevant real estate data is stored. Redfin pulls that data from the MLS and is updated every 15 mins or so. Yes, you can argue that realtors have pocket listings, and the public thinks that its some sweet deal. But c'mmon thats .5 percent of the market, I put that in the same category as short sales and foreclosures. Why would you want to go fishing in a pond where there are 2 fishes? Go fishing in a lake where there are 100 fishes. So, yes long story short-In the 21st century, you has as much access to data as realtors. If you use "saved search" on Redfin, you can adjust your search parameters, like from simple stuff like 3 bedrooms,2 bath, 1500-1800 sq ft in XYZ area to complex and advanced stuff like built 2010 plus and hoa less than 100 and include only 2 car garages, etc. Every time, there is a listing that matches this specific criteria, you get an email or a push notification. Thats it!, why do you need the realtor to send you this info? In fact, the odds are you are going to see this info faster than your realtor because the realtor is out the field dealing with showings, inspections, writing offers, etc. So, you dont need your realtor to send you listings, thats the pre internet way. The new age way is you get listings to you automatically, its faster. Then, when you think you are interested in seeing a house in person or write an offer, thats when a realtor steps in.
RealEstate
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celadonshopper
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MrDaveyHavoc
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adrian-monk-
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Thoughts on betterment?
Hi all. What are your opinions on investing funds in a robo-trader like Betterment as opposed to simply buying various ETFs directly? I've heard various arguments for and against mainly revolving around fees but also would be interested to hear thoughts on their diversification strategy. Thanks
I'm a fan. You get a better distribution more true to your risk profile compared to your standard 3 fund or four fund account. It rebalances constantly, better than you can do as a single person maybe monthly or quarterly.
I am a Wealthfront supporter over Betterment. The allocation always made more sense to me and is simpler which is helpful for tax reasons. I do like Betterment's user interface more, but I weight allocation over interface.
investing
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wedgetailedbeagle
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t3_70nfsc
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Reddit-Hivemind
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1noahone
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Aspirational 1st Time Homebuyer. Self Employed. Wife Has Terrible Credit. I live in NYC. Am I screwed?
I would like to be a homeowner some day very soon. However as the title says I have several things stacked against me. What can I do? Here's background: I am self-employed as a technology consultant and have been that way my entire career. 1099s only. No W-2s. My income fluctuates wildly year to year and I currently have an enormous tax bill as I bumped up a tax bracket in 2014, which when paid off will knock my savings to zero. I've been married 1 1/2 years and my wife has awful credit (but improving, slowly). My credit is fantastic. Right now we live in NYC (Brooklyn) I work from home and she commutes to a good job in Manhattan every day. We piss away an ungodly amount of our income on rent and NYC living expenses. I'm really itching to apply that to equity on a house. My wife is from Los Angeles where we would like to move back to in a few years. My father in law is not wealthy but holding onto $50k for us to buy a home (under the condition we buy a house in California at some point..) In Southern California, $300k barely gets you into a 600sqft 1BR condo in a crummy neighborhood. But oddly enough it seems like a 1 hour train commute from Manhattan has some pretty affordable real estate that's not even in the 'hood (aka New Jersey). I've seen listings for under $200k. So the question is - is there any hope for us? Should I just call this homeownership business a pipe dream and just hope I get a business windfall that buys us a house in cash one day? Or are there options?
You have no savings and are planning to move across the country in a few years? Why would you want to buy a house now? Save as much as you can and buy one after you relocate, if you do, and once you have enough for a 20% down payment plus all the other contingencies involved with buying a house.
Where have you looked at home prices in SoCal? The inland empire has plenty of decent homes in decent neighborhoods for $300-$400k. Not to mention, LA Metro is aggressively expanding the light-rail trains to the point that park and ride to downtown from the inland empire will be very feasible.
personalfinance
13
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[deleted]
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FacelessBureaucrat
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b3arstate
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Warren Buffet still reads about 5-6 hours a day.
How much do the rest of you read every day?
I read about 1-2 hours a day, I wouldn't expect the common person to be able to read 5-6 hours a day like buffet because that is basically half of his job (research).
500 pages a week is what he reads, apparently, even though it's repeated everywhere that it's 500 pages a DAY. Even some fairly high profile bloggers, who should probably check the fact, repeat it.
investing
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Zaandreey
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t3_33tgfp
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portugal-thematt
t1_cqo8n9s
cqo8n9s
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bozwood
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cqoqihl
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Help! Argentinian drowning here
Hello! Like the title says, I'm from Argentina. Currently, we are in big trouble, the previous goverment lead by Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner, has a great chance to recover again the power. So, the markets went bad, affortunatly, I moved my savings to a fund that invests in bonds from Latin America (Chile mostly). But, i had a some of my savings in argentinian stocks, that i sold last friday (THANK GOD). Yesterday, the market went bad, because of last saturday elections: &x200B [Alberto Fernandez (with Cristina Fernandez) went with 47.66&37;]( [ Argentina drowning ]( What would you do in my place? Where should i put my money in case that my country decide not to pay bonds and restructure our debt? The last chance of Macri is in November, when it will be the last votation. What would be a good refuge from value? This low is very similar to 2008, and I really don't know what to do. I would appreciate some word of support. Thanks to all that will response to my calling of help. (Sry for bad english)
I can't comment on stocks/finances since I'm kind of retarded but may I recommend an alternative money making venture if shit really hits the fan (EG you don't have a job)? Classic World of Warcraft is being released soon and if you roll a Mage you can AOE farm pretty easily for gold. Sell this gold for real world money (preferably USD). This isn't a joke, for example [WoW gold (on retail) is worth more than the Venezuelan Bolivar]( The only upfront investment is a subscription (it's like $150 for a 12-month sub) so I'd suggest buying one before your currency tanks if it's looking like the election will head in that direction. Genuinely, best of luck man.
hello fellow argentine. i'm a bit optimistic, i dont think F&F are morons, i dont think they will default if they can. im betting that by october 2020 they will not default, with this assumption (wishful thinking) i am buying around 1k usd in AO20 which right now is like buying dollars at 33 pesos, with an interest rate of 8%.
wallstreetbets
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sebacard
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t3_cpujqc
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Zerole00
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ewrok2x
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higgs_bosoms
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ews8j3f
1,565,722,345
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null
Help: What should I do with a $8000 check?
Posted this in r/finance, but was told to post here fingers crossed I am going to receive a check for $8000. The thing is I definitely don't want to spend it. Not ONE penny. I know I should invest, but I have NO idea how or even where to begin. I've been told to buy stocks, buy gold, get a CD, Roth IRA, and more I couldn't keep track of. Anyone with expertise in this matter? Useful tips or advice would be greatly appreciated.
If you don't have an adequate emergency fund, then start one. Just a savings account that is there for financial emergencies only, such as losing a job, unexpected deaths, posting bail, etc. If you have high interest debt, pay that off. If both of the above are already taken care of, then start a Roth IRA and put $5k in a target retirement fund and add the other $3k next year (you can only contribute $5k/yr). I recommend Vanguard.
What is your ultimate goal? To have these funds contribute to your retirements? Eventually to buy a house or boat or education? What is your situation? Do you have an emergency fund? Are you in debt?
personalfinance
10
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hotchimichanga
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t3_n6rpr
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mackstann
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c36ox70
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3
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[deleted]
t1_c36ovjr
c36ovjr
1,323,469,538
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null
Job or college for now?
I have an unskilled job that can pay up to $156000 a year but I must work 80+ hours week (optional over 40) to achieve that annual amount as I am paid hourly. I am in my early 20s. I was considering taking a break from college to work this job in order to save and invest money. Then possibly returning to college. I am a freshman studying computer science. I’m not exactly sure what I want to do everyday as a career. I have acquired some rental properties and I enjoy managing them. I have considered working hard for a few years then attempting to retire. This job will only be available for ~5 years. I am leaning towards leaving college for the job, because I feel like not doing so would be wasting a great financial opportunity.
You should definitely take that job. Work as hard as you can and save as much cash as you can. Go to college when the gig is over or when you are too burnt out to do it anymore. I did much better in college when I went back after a 5 year break. I also had a much better idea of what I wanted to do with my degree.
I suggest you keep the job but work less hours. I don't know what job this is, but for a job that paid this well, I highly doubt that after doing it for 5 years, you cannot find a job that employ this skill. Just because this specific job is available to you for 5 years, it does not mean that you cannot find a job after 5 years. As far as college, you know that college will always be there.
personalfinance
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FIRECS
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t3_dqe4ii
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BuzzCave
null
f62kh4a
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olidin
null
f63j6yd
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null
Dad wants to put house title in my name
My parents are divorced and I have not had an incredibly close relationship with my dad, so I don't have any financial ties to him currently. My dad is in his late 50's and owes a number of people money including the IRS, hospitals, doctors, banks, etc. He has filed bankruptcy once and had everything repossessed that was in his name. He is on disability now following the hospital stint and unable to work. The IRS has deemed the money he owes them "unrecoverable" but continues to monitor his bank accounts and any other assets. He will finish making payments on his small house in the middle of nowhere (TX panhandle) sometime next year. Right now the title of the house is in his friends name who loaned him the money to purchase the house originally. When he finishes paying his friend will transfer the title to his name. My dad is concerned that at that point someone he owes money to will try to repossess it, so he wants me to put it in my name. The house can't be worth more than $40,000. What would the potential ramifications of this be for me?
The IRS really really doesn't like taking people's primary home, so he probably doesn't have much to worry about there. Even in bankruptcy generally your home is protected from other creditors (not your mortgage lender though because that loan is secured by the loan). I'd still tread lightly on this though.. no sense in getting yourself tangled up in your dad's mess.
Don't get in the middle of this. Yes bankruptcy court don't like taking someone's primary residence and tend to avoid doing so, BUT they also hate it when some tries to hide assets from them.
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Inheriting a house w/ mortgage in California - could use some advice.
Hi PF, A parent recently passed away and left me half of the estate through a trust. My sibling and I agreed that I will take the house, they will take the remainder, and at the end if the house is worth more than the rest (a piece of commercial property is the real question,) I will make up the difference with her. My sibling is the only other beneficiary and is the trustee. We have been considering the value of the house based on the Zillow estimate, do we need to get the house appraised? My sibling has an appraisal scheduled for the commercial property, who I considered hiring for the house as well. I'm not even sure if it's better for me if the appraisal comes in low so it represents a smaller share of the estate or if it's better if it comes in higher as my understanding is if I sell it the capital gains will be based on it's value when I inherited. The house currently has a moderately sized mortgage which my spouse wants to pay off in full. We have enough savings to pay it off, but I'm not sure if there are any significant tax advantages to keeping the mortgage that I should be aware of. My spouse contacted an attorney about how to ensure we take advantage of Proposition 13 regarding the property tax basis. I think we have that covered. As a soon to be first time home owner I'm feeling pretty overwhelmed and just don't want to screw anything up. Any advice would be helpful.  &x200B EDIT: My family and I plan to live in the house; the current mortgage principle is about 20% of the Zillow estimate of the houses value. It's not our dream house but it is a nice home in a nice area, and in California we inherit the property taxes based on when my parent purchased the house thirty years ago, so it will save us several thousand dollars a year to live there rather than selling it and buying a different house. It's a significant upgrade from where we are now in both the house itself and the area. &x200B
Zillow isn't accurate. You should absolutely have the property professionally appraised (most important reason is to avoid conflict with your sibling). People often think they want to hold onto "the family house" but if the property doesn't offer real benefits to you or fit into your life, sentimentalism should be crushed and the property should be sold.
How much is the house worth right now, with how much equity? If you had that amount of equity money sitting on your table, would you go put it as a down payment on this house and take out a mortgage of what is currently on it? If the answer is no, sell it, because every day you keep the house you are in effect buying it. You don't have to become owners by default (inheritance).
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Sell the car right? But which one?
Long story short: Ive made less than ideal financial decisions. Now Im trying to eliminate debt/expenses. My wife and I have paid off all credit card debt, all that remains is our 2 cars. 2012 Subaru Impreza - Value: 14,500. We owe: 12,900 2009 Civic - Value: 8,000. We owe: 3,000 My Plan: Buy an older, reliable Honda. Budget of $2500, then sell one of the cars 16,900 total car debt plus 2500 budget for car comes to 18400 bottom line. If we sell the Subaru, it has the greatest impact on the bottom line. However the Subaru is a much nicer car, and has less miles. If we sell the civic we don't eliminate as much of the debt, but we get to keep the nicer of the 2 cars. The other option is to just pay them both off as quickly as possible, which at the rate we've been paying on our debt would take about 1 to 1.5 years. If we do this we obviously spend the most money, but we also would end up with 2 relatively young, low milage cars to last us a decent amount of time. Thoughts? Im leaning toward selling the Subaru so as to eliminate debt as fast as possible, but my wife wants to keep it, since its got the most upside as a long term car. The subaru is also the safer of the 2 cars, which is something to consider since we have a baby on the way.
It would make no sense to sell the civic and buy something cheaper. The money you would lose on the sale and then repurchase of another car would offset any savings. All cars are not equal, and just because its cheaper doesn't mean it will still run as long as a more expensive vehicle. A 2009 honda civic that is nearly paid off with 75k miles is pretty damn close to an ideal frugal car that has MANY more years left in it. In many car situations, the best financial action is to keep your car for as long as possible, maintain it, and drive it into the ground.
I would consider two factors that you haven't mentioned: Repair history. Check Consumer Reports and other sites. Gas costs and maintenance costs (e.g., synthetic oil = $$) Question time: How much debt do you have at this point? How are you doing on retirement savings? How much extra money after paying minimums on all debts do you have each month? Do you have an emergency fund?
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When are you getting out of MSFT?
So I'm an anomaly based on the reddit audience; I'm a fan of MSFT's potential in the mobile market. Their profit margins are great, and they've been reacting to customer concerns -relatively- well lately. We're at a point where tech volatility is probably the highest it's ever been with mobility dominating the near future. The company hasn't seen a stock split in 10 years. How long are you holding on and why?
Msft should be a long term dividend growth play based on the strength of their enterprise business and office services. Xbox/mobile/surface/etc are really negligable to their overall strength. I'm long and I bought in at 29, plan to hold indefinitely.
Bought in at 28.8 but can't sell due to other reasons. People tend to ignore the fact that "casual gamers" will buy Xbox One despite DRM and privacy concerns. They also fail to foget that MS is a huge player in enterprise. Even if I could sell, I wouldn't.
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Is Spending 40% of Income on Rent Ever a Good Idea?
I've been looking for a short term (2-4yrs) apartment situation. I came across one that ticks all the boxes, the design, the size, the location from work, and etc. But it's slightly above my budget (at 40% of monthly income). What do you guys think? Would you splurge if you found the 'perfect' apartment? I tend to be a homebody, So it's important to find a place I enjoy being in, but not at the risk of financial stability. A little info that might help: -100% debt free -$30k in savings -With apartment + expenses, I'd have about $800-$1000 each month left over Thanks!
Depends on the 40% is this 40% of take home after doing 401k, benefits etc. Or 40% of gross? You say you're debt free, so 40% of net is not that bad depending on your options.
The rule I’ve seen posted is, if spending the 40% completely eliminates the need to own a vehicle and you make it up in that fashion it can be acceptable.
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21 years old making $44,000 a year while still living at home.. how do I not screw thus up?
Hey PF, So I am very fortunate enough work at a place where they’ve increased my hourly pay substantially in just 7 months. From about $29,000 a year to now just shy of $44,000. I don’t have too many monthly bills: Spotify - $9.99 iCloud - $0.99 AppleCare+ - $14.99 Monthly contribution to household - $145 Car payment - $350 Insurance - $150 $1000 in savings and about $200 CC debt. So I’ve got some extra cash floating around.. how can I take advantage of my current situation. I have basically no finance knowledge, the only thing I have is a loose budget setup with YNAB (more to just track my purchases than really budget my money).
Don't rush to leave the nest if you don't have to. Save as much as you can consistently while you have no real bills. You'll thank yourself in 5 years.
You showed us your monthly bills but you did not show your budget. How much do you spend at bars and fun? Clothing? How much do you actually save? Each of them should have monthly allocations too. It is great you are looking for financial advice that young, most of us started later. Also be responsible with money, but also keep enjoying life, you are young once.
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What to do with Intel?
Lots of recent (most negative) news on Intel. Time to add more or stop being a bag-holder and move on? RSI on the 1 year us now sub-30.
Disclaimer: I sold all of mine around May. They have no idea how to be relevant for the future. When I was a shareholder, I was so excited when I saw this: [ Intel is finally embracing the future, so I thought. But then they shut that department down. Couple that with losing the mobile chip battle to ARM + AMD Ryzen is creeping into the server market, I don't see how Intel is gonna recover. One more thing, they don't even have a competitive GPU product.
I say it's a sell. Apple is developing their own chips. Is there anything else that needs to be said? Where will the growth come from? They are in serious danger of becoming GE or IBM.
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Buyer making unreasonable demand 9 days before closing
California. We are under contract to sell our home at list price with $10k as a credit for upgrades the buyer wants to do. Buyer is contingent on the sale of their home and has not yet released their inspection or finance contingency even though they are past the date for that. We agreed to fix everything that was in their requests even though only 1 was called out by their home inspection (4 items total). We have already requested they remove inspection contingency, but have not pushed it. Buyer asked to have a contractor come to the house and measure things over the weekend. We agreed. Now buyer is saying that she noticed many hairline cracks in the stucco and wants us to fix them. We are now 9 days from the close of escrow, which was moved up by 10 days at their request. We do not have an inordinate amount of cracking...it is all normal for the age of the home. As a matter of fact, most of the cracking was present when we purchased the home more than a decade ago and we were told it was normal settling. My initial response was to tell the buyer to pound sand and that we would not be doing any more repairs. Would it be better to offer a minimal seller credit ($100 or less)?
I would send NBP notice to buyer to perform to remove contingencies. If they dont then cancel the deal. Is buyer in escrow to sell their house? If not then you really should move on. If so then they have more riding on this than you likely. At 9 days till close of escrow, they should have all contingencies remove, except maybe buyers sale of primary home, that one sometimes stick till the last minute and it's been known to cancel deals. Ideally if buyer is in escrow to sell their house then that transaction and the sale.of your transaction should be done by the sale escrow to prevent issues.
Based on their unreasonable demands, I wouldn't do any repairs on the home unless they remove all Contingencies. I'll do the repairs prior to funding, which is a guarantee that they're certainly willing to cooperate to get the home sold. You can't put in any money on the home in repairs unless you know you have a serious buyer.
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Downside to Index fund investing?
I've been kicking the idea around to move my investment out of a Ameriprise "finacial adviser" managed 401k and into some low cost index funds. I'm not really seeing my FA produce any significant returns over index funds. Fidelity is the 401k provider at work, they offer index funds. I was thinking Vanguard funds for my IRAs outside of my job. I was wondering, what are the downside risk or pitfalls in index fund investing?
It's kind of boring, compared to day trading or stock picking. Unless making money is exciting to you, in which case it blows the doors off either one of those.
The downside of investing in an Index500 fund is that it's hard to escape updates on the S&P 500 with the daily news, unless you live under a rock. I can't help but doing some quick math in my head and think: damn nondeju, you lost X with that tidbit, or whoohoo, I gained Y.
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Things to look for in a house for first-time homebuyer?
Hey all, I am looking to be a first-time homebuyer in Raleigh, NC and am just beginning my search! I am hoping to get some insight on what I should be looking for in a house when deciding to buy: structurally, inspection-wise, bang for your buck, planning for growth, etc. I want to make sure I go in educated on qualities of good houses before we make a mistake of getting a mortgage on a crap house!
If you have a good agent, he should be able to refer you a good home inspector. Ignore home inspection device you get unless they're a professional in a related industry- most people have zero idea what they're talking about. A good inspector will go through with you, tell you what is a real concern and what isn't, how much you can expect to pay to correct it, how long you have to do it, and lots of just little things that will help prepare you to live in the home. The biggest hurdle most 1st time buyers have is understanding that you're not apartment shopping. Hate the kitchen cabinets? You can tear those out and put in ones you love. You just have to decide if the end total cost is worth it. It sounds obvious but people really have difficulty understanding that until they've owned a home and actually done it. Pay more attention to the possibilities of the house than the current condition.
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Should I really be paying off student loans as fast as possible
For context, recent-ish grad (FALL '18): Income \~$60K/yr in the Los Angeles area as a QA/Programmer. Avg interest rate against all loans is 4.3%, the highest is 4.6% lowest is 3.7% The loan amount is $14.5K (all federal loans). Estimated monthly costs \~$250 (healthcare, gym, transportation, eating out) (no bills/rent since living at home w/ parents), might increase later as I agreed with my parents to start paying auto-insurance for "my" car at the end of the year. &x200B The general advice here is that it's always good to pay off student loans as fast as possible. My original plan was to pay it off as aggressively as possible (live w/ parents and finish paying it off in \~2 years). But, my question is, since we can deduct up to $2.5K from our taxes, would it make sense to optimize my payments so that I pay the essentially the bare-minimum + a few extra dollars? And then utilize the money that I wouldn't be putting into my student loans and put it into my IRA/401K (around 16% of paycheck is already going into it) and/or into an emergency fund/savings? I do know that the tax deduction starts to taper off at $65k/year and is not applicable at $80K. But, I'm not really expecting a promotion or a new job any time soon since I'm a recent grad, and I don't have much experience yet (might go in another job hunt 3 years down the line). My goals are to eventually move out and find a decent apartment w/ roommates when I save up \~$10K checkings + 5K savings.
I reread your post more closely. If your income is 60K and your expenses really are 3K (12 * 250), then you really have no problem at all. You can kill all 14500 of your debt this year and contribute 6000 to an IRA and contribute 19000 to a 401K, and you still have money left over to pay your taxes and even add to your savings (or pay parents some rent).
The tax deduction is for the interest on the school loan, not the school loan itself. Monthly to loan: $500 Yearly: $6,000 To interest: $516 Assuming 22% tax bracket Tax savings from deduction: $114 Or Monthly to loan: $1,000 Yearly: $12,000 To interest: $397 Assuming 22% tax bracket Tax savings from deduction: $87 You paid more $26 more in taxes, but $120 less in interest. If you’re in the 12% tax bracket you save even less in taxes ($14), but the same amount in interest. Fed tax rates only.
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House seller wants me to use their lender, should I be worried?
We just found a house that we really like but before even making an offer it was required that we get a pre-approval from someone at GuaranteedRate mortgages that the seller specified. We got the pre-approval and then we made our offer. The seller likes our offer but in order to proceed they have two conditions: We close within 35 days. They would strongly prefer we use their guy at GuaranteedRate. We're fine with condition 1 but condition 2 worries me. We have pre-approvals from Wells Fargo and Chase for better rates and we know the people there. Our realtor tells me that the reason for this weird stuff is that the seller is a builder and they are trying to close quickly perhaps to get cash to work on another house or something. Both WF and Chase are telling me this is a fairly strange arrangement and I'm inclined to agree. My realtor suggested I get something in writing from WF or Chase to assure the seller that we can close in the time frame they want. Did that, WF and Chase said they would both happily speak to the seller if further assurances are required. Should I be worried?
There's no reason for you to cooperate with the seller's desired kickback scheme using the lender he knows and probably uses for his business. If you can meet the closing deadline, go with the lender that is best for YOU.
It's not something to 'run away' about. They clearly want to get it done within a certain amount of time. Stick with your lender of choice for the lower rate, but make sure you are going to close on time. They might add a per diem fee counter offer for days after 35. Sometimes big banks (and CUs) take longer to close that's all. Either way, you are going to get an inspection and appraisal done, so don't freak out. Just insist on your own lender. 'Preferred' is the closest to demanding as they can get, without your consent.
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Advantages of being (and staying) debt free
I am wondering what the advantages are to being and staying debt free? I was on track to being debt free by 40 when catastrophe hit (health). Now I am back on track, looking at 47 as my year to be debt free (I am 42 now). To anyone out there who has had a lot of debt, what are the advantages of paying off everything and remaining debt free? I guess part of my question is also about what to pay, when. I will own my car outright next month and can establish an emergency fund. Do I start saving money thereafter or use it toward debt to get out of debt faster? I dont really care about home ownership, I am more worried about retirement and health.
People see money wrong. People see money linearly. "What good is it doing me? You can't take it with you when you die. I want nice things." Money is non-linear. Money is exponential. Every dollar is a little employee that can be working hard to earn you ten cents a year. Every dollar you spend is a permanent loss. People have no idea the leverage having money affords you. Really simple example: Do you like meat? If you have money on hand, you can buy a whole grass fed cow for $2/lb and fill your freezer with 800 lbs of steak. Cheap grain fed unhealthy cows? $6-8/lb for good steak, $3-4/lb for the ground beef in your local Safeway. Go to your farmer's market and try to buy grass fed beef- you'll be shocked at the $8-10/lb prices. Want to buy a house? Show up with a cash offer and promise to close in a week or two. You'll win bids over the non-cash buyers who bid but say "pending bank approval and a month or two to originate the loan". Want to buy a car? Having the cash is a huge negotiating ability. You aren't limited to lots that offer financing. Having a pile of cash actually makes the rest of your life cheaper. And investing that cash causes it to grow. I average ~20% with my investments (way above market, but I'm actively working to get these kinds of results, don't expect these numbers or you'll make mistakes). If I have $100,000 invested I make $20,000 on it next year. I roll that in to more investments. Now I have $120,000 invested and I make $25,000 next year...assuming I don't add more to it. It's a snowball, see? Cash growth is exponential. And eventually, it hits the point where it's growing faster than you can add to it by saving at your job. Debt is exponential loss. You are making someone else money at a percentage rate. Thus, debt elimination is crucial for the snowball.
Money you have can work for you, money you owe is a drain. I've got a small car loan because at 1.99% it was nearly free money and the cash I would have used has earned me more money in the stock market. I probably won't buy a brand new car again because I doubt I'll be seeing the convergence of new and late model used prices so close again coupled with such low interest rates. I've also got a very reasonable 15 year mortgage because I made a largish down payment on a place I could easily afford. I could have paid cash but it made no sense to tie up that much money. After that car is paid off I plan to only have mortgage debt. It's a psychological boost and I fundamentally believe that if you rely on debt and credit in the normal course of business then you are doing something wrong.
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Do you trust your investment advisor to make you money VS a 2-fund or 3-fund portfolio?
Hi, I had a conversation with a coworker who states he only invest in a taxable account because he wants his money to be accessible. I told him he should put it in a 401k and roth for the tax purposes and that he's lost money throughout the years. SO, the guy has a 25-year investing portfolio with EDJ, was poor and living on the streets in his early 20's, went to school and came out with a decent job. I assume he is making 70-80k now based on his experience. I was shocked when he told me that he received a check for $70k this past year on an account north of $3M. He told me that he puts money in, reinvest profits/dividends, and let his advisor handle his money. Who am I to tell him that he's made a mistake?! I asked what he holds and he says he doesn't quite know but a lot of companies with growth and real estate stocks. I'm sure he pays quite a bit on taxes and fees but the guy made out pretty well for himself considering his financial situation when he was younger. Will my 2 fund portfolio even be that close with me maxing out a roth/401k and then putting extra in a taxable. I am 20 years younger than he is but I would be happy with $3M at retirement.
My grandparents originally setup an EDJ account for me when I was younger and index funds weren't really a thing or at least not well known. A few years ago I started to get serious about retirement savings, and started to look at the fees and investment returns. It was not pretty. Frankly, the most difficult hump to get over is confidence that you can invest your own money and are doing things correctly. Index funds remove that difficult hurdle quite easily once you understand that in almost all cases they are going to better than active fund managers; or in this case EDJ. EDJ provides a service to those who want a total hands-off approach. Before the popularity of index funds that service might have been worth their fees. Unfortunately, EDJ "advisors" are not fiduciaries, and don't always have your best interests in consideration. They are trained to sell you products, and many of the fees are not immediately apparent / hidden within the mutual funds themselves. I do not regret the day I transferred my account in-kind from EDJ to Vanguard and went from having mutual funds with >1.0% expense ratios, front-end loads, back-end loads, etc to simple index funds with <0.10% expense ratios. If you are more of a numbers person, you could make mock portfolios on and it will show exactly how much you would be sacrificing to fees. It's pretty substantial. John Oliver also has a nice segment on retirement plans using index funds vs. active managers you should check out on Youtube. Yeah he's a comedian, but the info checks out on this one. Good luck!
A 2-3 fund portfolio isn't right for every person. A financial advisor does more than just pick stocks, they'll tailor a portfolio around your specific needs. Judging by how he received a 70k distribution, he wants to be able to use the income generated in his account. In this case, a retirement account would not have been the right decision.
investing
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tdooty
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Nitsude
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"CreditKarma is a third party looking to farm your data for marketing purposes." What truth is there to this statement?
I've only recently heard about CreditKarma as a free and easy way to view your credit score at any time, as many times as you need. Is it true that they use your information and it is just safer to use the 3 credit bureaus to check your credit report?
Like most companies that don't charge their userbase, they make money through other means, including marketing/advertising. I don't find credit karma's advertising to be intrusive, but it's also not compelling. For instance, it suggests doing a balance transfer to a 0% introductory APR card in order to "save interest" but I already don't pay interest and I also already have the card in question.
This is 100% true. However, they provide updates much more frequently than 3x per year. If it's not worth it to you, you can pay the bureaus directly for the service. It will run you $10-20/mo per bureau.
personalfinance
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lightcloud5
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AdabadaYou
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Negotiate salary?
So, my wife had a job offer, pretty decent job and salary, but she loses the option to work from him as needed. That's pretty huge to us having a kid. Is it acceptable to negotiate salary? The pay is 60-65k, I think 70k is acceptable considering what we're losing.
You're not supposed to be providing care to others (i.e. a child or an elderly parent) whilst working from home so I'm not sure whether using this as an argument with the potential employer would necessarily help your wife's case.
The big way to tell is comparable jobs with comparable educational and work experience backgrounds. If the pay is already above average you have little leverage, but if the pay is a little below for the region and your wife is a good candidate, she has room to bargain a little. You need to make this about what your wife brings to the table as an asset though, not about the loss of being at home. Bringing that up is a bad negotiating tactic.
personalfinance
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Realtor demanding money after escrow?
I sold a home several months ago and used the equity to buy a new house. Before listing the house, I contacted a realtor who said she would be able to sell the home, have commissions paid and I would have the perfect amount for the down payment on the new property. Apparently, my realtor believed she would recieve commission from the builder of the new house for being my realtor. We accepted an offer for the home and were about to close escrow for both properties when my realtor we discovered she would not be compensated by the builder of the new home because I walked into the builders office myself at the beginning of the process and was not introduced by the realtor. She explained her frustrations to me and I told her I would give her whatever excess funds, if any, at the end of the deal. I ended up keeping about $2000 after all was said and done. She recently contacted me and is now demanding 2% of the sales price (about 12k) for selling the house. I simply don't have that much sitting around. Is it legal for her to demand money after escrow has closed?
If you didn't sign a buyer brokerage agreement, then tell her to pound sand. I absolutely hate when a client walks into a builders office without me (happened last week), but there's nothing that can be done beyond that point. She should have known that from the get go and needs to suck it up.
Rookie mistake on her part. If your contract doesn't have you on the hook for her commission, tell her to pound sand. But do take a second read through your contract, you might actually owe her money.
RealEstate
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I know the conventional wisdom is that ARMs are bad and are to be avoided - but if you are fairly confident that you are going to be selling/moving in a few years, does the savings from the lowered mortgage payment offset the increased risk of trouble selling or increased interest rates down the road? It also seems like you could get more equity out of the house if you made extra payments but I'm not sure if I'm thinking about the amortization tables correctly. Are they similar across mortgages, in that the majority goes to interest initially and gradually the proportion going to principal increases over time?
but if you are fairly confident that you are going to be selling/moving in a few years Considering closing costs, selling costs, and the increased maintenance costs of ownership I'd first question whether buying is the best plan to begin with. It's likely cheaper and easier to rent, rather than buy -> live there a few years -> sell.
Are you buying or refinancing? Unless you have a lot of equity, you can't really be that confident that you'd be selling or moving in a few years, since the market could make that impossible.
personalfinance
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adlaiking
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catjuggler
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Help for a young couple with a baby on the way
Hi all. Due to several bad decisions early on my life I have a mid 500 credit score. I really needed a car so I took the first loan I was able to get which was at +20% on interest. Sadly, I also have some loans that I co-signed and I am responsible for bringing down my score. On top of that I owe BoA money on a credit card so I cannot get approved for a credit card to try and bring score up. I need help, I know I made really bad decisions so I am just trying to get help on everything and start saving money. Thanks
Don't worry about your credit score because you won't be borrowing anymore money. You've proven you can't handle debt responsibly. There will be time to worry about your credit score later. 1st though, you need to pay off everything you've already bought. You're in a debt emergency. Everything but the bare necessities get cut. No more eating out. Lose expensive cell phones. No home phone if you have a cell. Cancel cable TV (unless TV and internet is cheaper than just internet). Lower internet speed to save $10 a month. No unnecessary driving. If your income lets you receive food stamps/welfare/Medicaid (mainly for your partner), start filing the paperwork now. Case workers are often backlogged. Any extra income goes towards your highest interest loan. Depending on your income and debt level, this might be a marathon and not a sprint.
I'm prepared for down votes: you seem like you can't handle your current debts, much less the added expenses of a newborn. Not sure how far along your wife is but have you considered an abortion? This does not seem a good time to add a heavy expense, much less one that would occupy time you might otherwise spend in a second job clearing your debt emergency. If you can delay having a child foe a few years you may be much better prepared for one.
personalfinance
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wolfpackguy
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ELI5: What keeps countries from demanding debts being paid in full, suddenly?
Example, China currently holds a trillion in U.S. Debt to them . I can kind of wrap my head around how a global economy works but what is keeping countries that own other countries debt from demanding it be paid off?
What stops the bank from demanding you pay off your mortgage today or they'll take your house? They can't just call in the debt because that's not what was agreed to when the money was loaned. Most government debt comes from Government bonds - which have a set amount, set interest rate and a set date they become payable It (obviously) is a lot more complicated then that - but the ELI5 answer is they can't do it because they have a legal contract which says they can't
When the debt is first issued it already says on the bond/bill when it is to be paid off. That is the date it matures, end of story. Secondly, China can already basically cash in the debt whenenever it wants by selling it to a third party. The bond market is highly liquid and bonds can easily be bought and sold. Not all buying and selling bonds by any means is done with the US government as one of the trading parties
explainlikeimfive
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Best videos/apps/books to learn about stocks/investing?
Best videos/apps/books to learn about stocks/investing?
I'm in the middle of "The Intelligent Investor" which I saw recommended in various places. One of the best ways I found when learning the ropes is to dive into a bit of trading with say, $100 and - most importantly - monitor your own behaviours and reactions to market movements over a period of time, and observe how you reacted when the market reacted a certain way and whether the outcome was positive or negative for you. You can then start to build on that knowledge and hopefully build a relatively successful investment portfolio over time :)
I've suggested the titles before but I'm busy today so suffice it to say look up anything from Trader Vic Sperandeo, Linda Raschke, and William O'Neil, and study them hard. You could probably search my name and find the titles I said the last time I said anything on this.
stocks
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Trying to Wrap My Head Around a Budgeting Cashflow Problem
Hi all, I've been trying to wrap my head around this for some time and would appreciate any help this subreddit can provide! My wife and I make a combined income of about $8k/month. I'm paid every other week while my wife isn't paid until the last Friday of each month. The latter arrangement often complicates our finances in the following way... Our credit card bill arrives each month around the 7th or 8th. It's due between the 28th and 30th of the month. On rare occasions it happens to be due before my wife gets paid and this makes paying it tricky. I typically have to move some cash OUT of our Savings account to pay the bill and then back in after my wife is paid. Does this make sense? I'm confused because the expenses I'm paying for when I pay the credit card bill are for the PREVIOUS month. Alternatively, I could pay the bill when it immediately arrives but then I would have to move money out of Savings and then repay as I get paid throughout the month. I'm confused because we budget very carefully but I don't always seem to have the cash on hand to pay the bill until after my wife is paid. Does this make any sense at all? Help appreciated — I get anxious that somehow we're not "doing it right."
You're living on what's called "the credit card float". You think you're ahead, but you're not. You buy things in June, and then pay for it with money you make in July. You're living a month ahead of your means. The problem isn't what part of the month you get paid. The problem is that you're spending money before you earn it, and budgeting for when you send the dollars to the credit card instead of when you spend them. If somehow all of your credit card bills became due RIGHT NOW, you would have a negative balance in your checking account. If your paycheck was delayed a month or if you lost your job and the income stopped, you would overdraft. Your credit card payment isn't a payment, it's a transfer. Think of the credit card like another checking account, except it runs negative. You have $100 in your checking account. $0 balance on the credit card. Total amount of money you have: $100. You buy $50 worth of groceries on the credit card. Checking account is still $100, but now credit card is -$50. Total amount of money you have: $50. Pay the credit card bill. Checking account $50. Credit card $0. Total amount of money you have: $50. When the bill comes, you are transferring $50 from checking to credit card in order to cover that $50 you already spent. You're not spending another $50. The way to correct it is to reduce your spending until you have a buffer in your checking account. Ideally, the money you spend in June should be money you made in May, which you then send to the credit card company in July.
Can you set up automatic bill pay from your savings account? If not, how about open a high yield savings account like Ally or Redneck. Put all of your money there and pay the bills directly from there. This way, you get higher interest and don't have to do anything. Put all your pay and all your wife's pay directly into this account.
personalfinance
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thecorch
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Early retiree denied conventional mortgage due to not enough income although has hundreds of thousands of dollars in IRA's, stocks, and bonds. Any advice?
Recently, my mother sold her home and put a contract on a new home. Unfortunately, since she knew that she had plenty of money in investment accounts and had planned to use that money for the purchase of this home, she didn't feel the need to get a loan pre-approval letter. Now that her home that she's currently living in has sold and the closing is set to take place mid April, she's finding it next to impossible to get a lender to give her a conventional loan because she doesn't meet their debt-to-income standards (she has no debt, but technically also no income as she retired early). Her financial advisor told her that they could do a marginal loan to possibly assist with things, but it sounds risky and doesn't make a whole heck of a lot of sense to me. Do you guys have any thoughts/ideas out there of maybe a way she can proceed purchasing this new home with a conventional loan mortgage?
I'm confused. You say: since she knew that she had plenty of money in investment accounts and had planned to use that money for the purchase of this home If she was planning to use that money to buy the house, why is she getting a mortgage? Can you provide numbers? How much is the new house, how much cash does she have fro the old house, and ow much in investments (and how much of the investments are gains)? If the issue is not wanting to incur the taxable gains then a margin loan would be a reasonable suggestion, but she'd want to have a plan for what she was going to do in terms of paying those off in the future.
Go see a mortgage broker (atleast thats what we call them in canada). Normally they have access to more lenders. Big banks can be very picky depending who she is using.
personalfinance
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Our agent is pressuring us into signing our closing documents prior to being able to do a final walkthrough. (WA)
My wife and I have been in the process of buying our first house and are just nearing the final step. Our real estate agent has scheduled us to meet with the title company today to sign all of our closing documents, but the seller won't even be moved out until next Monday, and we won't be able to do our final walkthrough until after the seller moves out. After feeling very uneasy about this (who signs a contract to buy something if they haven't yet verified that it hasn't been trashed?) we called our agent and explained to him our concerns. We were underhandedly insulted for feeling this way and essentially told that "everyone does this, it's just what you do" and that our fears were unfounded. Does anyone have any insight into this process and if it's normal to sign the closing documents before you can do a final walkthrough? It just seems so unusual. Everyone we have talked to says that their process had the final walkthrough before signing the closing documents. Any advice? Should I talk to another real estate agent? We're going into the title company to sign this afternoon, but if something doesn't change between now and then, I plan on just refusing to sign and waiting until next Tuesday when we can do the final walkthrough.
This is fishy for two reasons: You should always have the right to do the final walkthrough if it states it in the contract. Why is the seller staying beyond closing? Do you have a leaseback situation? If not the place should be ready for occupancy at closing.
The process varies in different parts of the country. I've owned homes in two different states -- in Virginia we signed the documents on the day of the closing, but in California we signed everything a few days in advance. Make sure you're getting advice from people who know how it's done in your area. You can also call your attorney or title company and ask them whether this is customary.
RealEstate
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acidfingers
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walterwhitmanwhite
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Is there a benefit/feature that you'd like to see your bank provide?
Recently, there's been a large push to improve a lot of features as competition's been increasing from unusual sources such as Amazon and Google, it's easy to see why banks are rolling out more features/offers/benefits than ever before. In general, is there something that you'd like to see come out into the world to make your banking experience better or more streamlined? And do you think there's a chance for banks to survive under the increasing competition?
I would like it if there was a rules or conditional system you could set up in your bank account. That way based on certain occurrences it will trigger the action. For example, if a deposit is made to your bank account over $1,000, automatically move 15&37; to savings. If checking is less than $500, the account moves $500 into checking from savings.
Yes, a lot of CC companies and utilities have dropped out of the common e-bill services that automatically retrieved the bill and gave me options on whether to automatically pay in full (utilities) or notify me and pick the amount. Now I have to go to my CC websites every month and check the statement again. It's annoying and makes me think they did it just to generate more late fees.
personalfinance
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Why would smart money buy S&P500 in mid-august 2016?
At 2182 -> all time high, up 8% ytd, up 22% in the last 6 months. EPS are up 1%, sales are up 3% (ex energy… lol) otherwise down a lot w/o buyback. P/E is 25x, vs median 14x. Oil slightly above $40 Why would someone, who is able to see a bigger picture, buy here, but not 6 months ago? No rate hike?
you could say: "why would smart money buy sp in: " 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 all would have been at all time highs, and all would be in a similar circumstance now. im not saying the spx will continue up in the short term, but just because markets are at new highs doesn't make it a poor buying opportunity.
Are you trying to time the market.....hey everyone, this guy's trying to time the market. Real answer is because who knows what it's going to do. Maybe it's overvalued, maybe it's not. Maybe it's hard to know what else to do with funds that are newly becoming available. If you just leave new funds in cash, that's a strategic decision that you think cash will do better. You got a hot tip, son? Is jnk going to shoot through the moon? How about oil?
investing
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TDual
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Feedback for a new investor in the stock market
Hi /r/stocks, Since the beginning of this year I was fortunate enough to invest quite a lot of money into stocks. Because this is quite new to me and in the past it worked out to listen to experienced people I'd like to ask for some feedback regarding my strategy. My plan is to invest around 40k$ a year in two parts. 20k each 6 months. I live in Switzerland and work for an American cybersecurity vendor. I have an account on Schwab but usually sell all my company RSUs and ESPPs once I unlock them because I'd like to have my money on a Swiss bank account. I am aware that I lose some % regarding commission but that's worth for me to have it all in Switzerland. My portfolio looks like this at the moment. Because I work in the IT business I only invest in tech stocks: 56 AMS 4 AMZN 75 ATVI 104 CRM 55 MSFT 70 APPL 46 BABA up to now I am up around 5% overall. My yearly overall goal/expectation is around 5% I basically have some simple rules: do not sell whatever happens only long term investment (3-5+ years) only invest money which I don't need My questions to you are: At the moment I don't really have any spare money to invest, but every 6 months I'll have around 20k to invest. How much money should I have in free cash flow for "buying the dip". Is this something which I should consider or just buy some more stock when I have money to do it? I already have a good diversity in my opinion with 7 different stocks and my plan was to not extend the different stocks (because on day I will sell and I'll pay way more commission then). Is this something which is not really important in a long term strategy? Any tips and feedback is welcome. Thanks
Railroads used to be tech stocks. If your career skews your view of the stock market, then you're going to run into serious problems in the future. Just imagine investors from a 100 years ago telling themselves "I work in steel" or "I work in the railroad and I only know raildroad companies," yet those steel & railroad stocks are gone today. Investing in a single sector is never a good idea especially when a dip turns into a recession. I don't mean 2008 recession, I mean dot com bubble where companies just disappeared and tech stagnated for years making your long term investment goal of (3-5+ years) turn into 10 years or more. AMZN looks great now, but in a recession, its stock price will drop down to a normal value to reflect its P/E. If I take AMZN's stock price and divide it by its P/E & times it by AAPL's P/E you get 78.89 - 267.87 according to AMZN's forward P/E & current P/E respectively. Give [Fidelity's business cycle a read]( and if anything see their chart on which sector gets [hurt the most in which cycle.](
Reminder to everyone, Rule 5, Trolling, insults, or harassment, especially in posts requesting advice, will be removed. Also please follow redditqete.
stocks
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Does my employer have to compensate me for cell phone usage? (California)
I work in California for a company that requires me to use the company app on my personal cell phone. This app is an interface for documentation for the company and also to link up with customers. There is also a gps function in the app so customers can see where I am en route to them (similar to Uber). Again though, I am using my personal phone. Is my company legally required to compensate me for the data and voice usage I go through each month? If so, to what amount? Thanks for any help!
The answer is yes but it's complicated. The court case that determined when an employer must pay an employee for cell phone use and to what extent is known as "Cochran v. Schwan’s Home Service" The case made five key points: Employers have an obligation to reimburse business expenses incurred by employees. Expenses must be necessary in order to require employer reimbursement. Employers must always reimburse employee for expense of cell phone use even though the employee did not pay additional cell phone fees for using their cell phone for work purposes. The court held that the details about each employee’s cell phone plan do not determine liability. The court did not explain how to calculate a reasonable reimbursement for employee’s cell phone use when the employee has an unlimited data plan. So while yes legally you are likely entitled to compensation from your employer, the specific amount is unclear, and possibly more importantly it causes conflict. If you intend to ask for compensation and that is your end goal be as polite as possible and clear as possible about what you want and why you want it. If you are uncomfortable talking about this, consider a polite and professional email. If you are rejected, consider dropping it or pressing the point with the knowledge you might have a long road ahead for very minimal gain.
I only ask for compensation if I can prove that business use cost me more than the typical monthly use due to fees etc. Now that I have unlimited talk on my cell, it is really a moot point now.
personalfinance
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17
null
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null
nasajd
null
d66aaey
1,470,453,849
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null
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spicymaki
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d66mx7y
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Can someone PLEASE explain this scheme people I know are running?
You invest 100 dollars into the plan and then get 8 people to also invest 100 dollars. After you recruit 8 people you are paid out 700 dollars plus your 100. A lot of my friends are doing this and they won’t listen to me when saying it is a pyramid scheme in it’s simplest form. Is there any way this could work? If so how? Someone please explain this to me!
With a branching factor of 8, after 10 levels of referrals, assuming no repeats, this Ponzi scheme would reach over 1 billion people (8^10 + 8^9 + 8^8 + ...). 1 more layer later and you'd reach every human on the planet. It's a game of hot potato. Anyone on the bottom of the pyramid who can't sign up another 8 people will lose $100. At layer 10, this scheme has earned the scheme creator $120 billion. Of course it'll never get that far because at least one of those billion people will be a SEC or government official who will end this highly illegal strategy of making money. You seriously would be better off putting that $100 in a slot machine in Vegas, which is governed by rules of fair play (albeit tilted towards the casino).
This is a straight up pyramid scheme, doomed to fail, as others have clearly explained. Nobody's mentioned how it fails in practice. It doesn't reach a point where people just can't find anyone else. It ends when the scammers decide that that time is coming soon. Nobody gets paid and the scammers vanish with the big pile of money.
personalfinance
29
61
null
null
null
WonderBreadisOK
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null
t3_7pv0s4
false
31
null
null
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iceardor
null
dskb7y3
1,515,747,620
1,517,817,044
null
1
null
null
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Not_Joking
null
dskv7h1
1,515,777,991
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null
Deplete 76% of savings to pay off student loan early, saving $4400 in interest charges?
UPDATE: paid First off, I don't make a ton of money but I manage what I make pretty well. The title states my situation pretty clear. I've got a decent chunk of change in the bank. I could pay my final 6.5% student loan off (which would leave me with 24% of my savings still in the bank) and save myself the interest charges of $4400, or I could sit on my savings and continue to pay on the loan. I've thought about other options such as paying multiple payments every month or looking for a lower rate... but I've got the cash to cover it. If I paid it off, I would have less than 10k in savings but would free up about $250/month to help build that savings up again. I am a married man with a wife who works full time in health care. We both earn about 50k each, she makes a bit more than I do. She has less than 10k in savings. She has a car payment. We owe less than $150k on a house that appraised at $216k last year. Neither of us has credit card debt worth mentioning. Am I foolish for burning through a large pile of money to save myself $4400? Or is that pile of money better off in the bank to cover unforeseen expenses? Thanks for your help.
If you have money sitting in the bank while you are paying 6.5% interest, you effectively have negative interest on that money. You want to pay that off, unless there is some reason you need a lot of cash in the short term.
Money saved is money earned, literally. Whatever rate you save on your loans after tax credits and everything else is essentially the rate you would be earning on your money if you paid it off now vs. if you didn't. You could alternatively invest your cash and try to beat that rate, but the other thing to remember is that paying off the loan is a guaranteed savings of 6.5% vs whatever you might earn on investments
personalfinance
59
90
null
null
null
Taifighter616
1,504,718,835
1,507,307,722
null
t3_6yh3ak
false
148
null
null
null
yes_its_him
null
dmnal77
1,504,718,926
1,506,545,085
null
1
null
null
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brokendrive
null
dmnc1tc
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1,506,545,901
null
College graduate in ~$90,000 of debt, making minimum wage. How do I dig myself out of this hole?
So, I'm sorry if this is a common question on this sub and I just haven't seen any of them, but I don't know what to do anymore. I'm a culinary school graduate making $9.50 per hour. I went to a private university and was largely lead to believe that finding a decent (ish, since I know this industry is difficult to make tons of money in) job wouldn't be as difficult as it has proven to be. I live in a not-so-wealthy part of Pennsylvania, surrounded mostly by farm land. I know that my first step should be to move, considering there are no larger restaurants or luxury hotels in the area, and the money is just not here. My predicament though is that I'm barely making enough to live, and all my extra money is being eaten by loan payments. I feel like getting by on $230 a week and paying for gas, food, rent, etc is going to force me into this vicious cycle. I can't move without money and I can't make money where I am. At this point, I'm trying to put 6% of each of my checks toward a 401k...is that even a good idea at this point? I'm trying to be responsible but at this point I'd rather fake my own death and buy a new identity than live like this. (Joking...sorta). Are there any suggestions out there? I feel like I will never be able to live out of poverty and it's just such a depressing reality. TL;DR not getting paid enough to move, not enough money to be made where I am. ~$90,000 of school loan debt. Help.
If you got a bachelor's degree from this culinary school (which I'm assuming you did for $90k), have you considered joining the military? You can get an officer commission and have a good chunk of your school debt paid by joining.
Check out the railroads. Bnsf, uprr, CSX and NS. They love colledge* graduates for their management trainee program. Entry level trainmaster starts out at 85k for the BNSF. You should look for conductor positions too.
personalfinance
144
218
null
218
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[deleted]
1,430,966,235
1,440,750,338
null
t3_354sc8
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ConfirmationBias_
t1_cr10c98
cr10c98
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poondox
t1_cr1p94k
cr1p94k
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Working at a big unionized grocery store, my pay and hours worked arent adding up but the payroll manager is saying everything is caught up and fine.
Started in September as a day shift worker. For some stupid reason that even they can't explain to me, I ended up getting my clock-in badge a month late, meaning I had to sign in all of my hours on a piece of paper instead of through the machine. This also meant that I didn't get paid for a whole month when I'm supposed to be getting paid weekly. Despite how pathetic it was to have to go through this for a month, I finally got my badge 2 weeks ago and started getting paid. However, I've worked upwards of 200 hours up until this point, yet my 2 paychecks to date only add up to like 75 hours, give or take. I called the payroll manager and she told me that I'm all caught up with my pay. I told her I definitely was not, but she said there was nothing she could do since apparently all my hours were logged correctly. Idk how the fuck she got my hours so utterly wrong, since I signed in on that damn paper for every single shift I worked there, but now I'm not getting paid in full? This is ridiculous and I can't express how fucking annoyed I am. I thought about showing her my actual schedules that I take pictures of every week, but the thing is, my first week or two, my boss never actually had me on a schedule since I wasn't in the system yet, and so he only told me by word when to come in, so I have no definitive proof. And I also ended up deleting some of my other photos of past schedules because my phone was running out of storage and didn't think I would need it, but hoh how I was fucking wrong. I just don't understand how they could miss so many of my hours, even though I signed in on that paper every single damn shift. Like I legit don't understand. None of this would have happened if I got my badge on my first week like a normal fucking employee, but no they had to fuck me over in every possible way they could. If you read this, what are my options? This was more of a rant than anything, but I still need some advice.. Thanks to anyone who read this.
Talk to a shop steward. If you don’t know who one is ask other union members to point you to one and ask them for help. Don’t go to the company without one with you
This is what your union exists for. Get in touch with your Steward, the sooner the better (grievances like this are often time-sensitive and it will be easier to get fixed now than later). They're more likely than anyone to have an idea of how to proceed.
personalfinance
11
14
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null
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a2242364
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t3_7dbc08
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Project_IG
null
dpwitp7
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CaptainTachyon
null
dpwx8o1
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null
How do you know when you can afford an expensive toy?
This might be a silly question, but I'm having a hard time weighing my desire to be financially responsible vs my desire to have fun. I made a throwaway because I'm going to give income info and my real life friends know my account. I'm 31. Wife is 30. No kids. I make $120k a year. She makes $40k. We have about $20k in savings, $15k in checking, and $10k in the 'oh shit' savings account. We have 401k's and a Vanguard mutual fund. We live in the US. Aside from our mortgage (with represents about 20% of our monthly take-home), we have no debt. We lease our cars (under $300 each). We don't typically spend money on 'stuff.' We travel quite a bit and that's what we splurge on. But... I want an ATV. I spent this past weekend with my sister's new husband and we rode all weekend. I'd never done it before and I had an absolute blast. I borrowed someone's ATV this time but I'd like my own for future trips. Depending on a variety of factors, it would cost between $5k-$10k. How do you guys plan for frivolous purchases? Dip into savings? Start putting money into a new slush fund until you have enough? My wife has given me the go-ahead but spending that much money at once weirds me out, especially since I think we've been pretty responsible so far. Somehow I have an easier time justifying a $5k vacation than a $5k toy that will depreciate like crazy and only get used a handful of weekends a year. EDIT: Thank you all for the advice. I guess I didn't realize how much PF hated leasing cars. That's not going to change though. I work for one of the car manufacturers so I get employee pricing. My wife and I also like driving new cars every couple years. The lease payments represent 6% of our take home income.
If you have to go into debt, or adjust your future spending to accommodate it, then you can't afford it. Toys are something you pay for with good habits from the past not a willingness to adjust the future. It sounds to me like you've earned it. I would look into owning your vehicles though. For 90% of people it's a better financial decision.
The first goal is to be out of debt, which you say you are. Toys should only be paid for in cash and it should not come from your emergency fund. It looks like you guys are in great financial shape and can definitely afford to have some fun with your money. You probably have plenty for an emergency fund already based on the numbers you gave, so budget to set aside as much as you can for the next couple of months to pay cash for the ATV. That being said, the car leases are probably costing you a lot more than you realize in overspending and opportunity costs. Using the same strategy as saving for the ATV and paying cash for a couple of decent cars while continuing to throw that payment amount into a new car fund will allow you to upgrade in pretty short order.
personalfinance
50
30
null
30
0
moneyques121
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null
t3_41jkig
false
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null
46
null
yalemartin
null
cz2sw18
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null
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null
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null
mb3581
null
cz2tgzi
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null
Our son passed away in Dec...any information about settling his estate?
As the title says, our youngest son passed away suddenly on Dec. 18, 2019. We're still waiting on the Death Certs. in order to access his bank account...I'm unfamiliar with the process of settling another adult's estate. He was a renter and he owned his car, he had a Student loan and maybe some credit cards. Where do I start or should I even start? It's a horrible task for a Father to do.
I'm so sorry for your loss. It can't be easy for you. You should talk to a probate attorney local to where your son was living when he passed. Depending on where he was living and if that place was somewhere in the U.S., there may be a process available that can get you through probate quicker than a normal probate. This administrative process is usually reserved for those who die with relatively few and small assets.
I lost my friend, the youngest of his family (by only a few hours I believe) on the same day. I'm sorry I have no advice, but I just wanted to say that I hope you find yourself surrounded by loved ones who can help you remember the joy that so sharply parallels your loss. Best to you, friend in grief.
personalfinance
19
40
null
null
null
dakotabrn
1,578,440,161
1,586,998,400
null
t3_eljvmb
false
40
null
null
null
Avery_Devereaux
null
fdigyv3
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1,587,383,966
null
3
null
null
null
JeneeInTheCloset
null
fditqpm
1,578,450,840
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null
What would have happened if you ONLY invested right before the market's biggest crashes?
A reminder to: 1) Not try and time the market 2) Not get worried when the market takes a downturn (ie the past few months)
Try to do this with the Nikkei and Bob would be totally screwed. Just because the US stock market has been going up does not mean it will continue to go up in the future.
I see nothing about actual returns. Just because Bob has a million, doesn't mean he made a lot of money after inflation (and taxes). At least he mentioned that you are supposed to diversify and to use the cost average effect to your advantage. However, 401k and IRA (employer contribution,Roth,..) should have also been mentioned, along with that there can be hypes (IT, biotech,..) and what the price earnings ratio is. I can't believe this guy manages "portfolios for institutions".
personalfinance
8
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MarioLutherKingJr
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null
t3_45hwre
false
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WingsOfHeaven
null
czy1l2x
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null
-6
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danyun1
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czy4vns
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null
[Indiana] A guy wants to buy my house, pay me cash, any risk not through realtor?
I am located in Indiana I have a selling agent, but contract just expired. this guy saw the "for sale" sign, and hired my selling agent as his buying agent trying to buy my house, but not got through. (he told me this yesterday) so he came to my house, offered to pay me cash and my property tax, transfer the property to him by signing Quit Claim Deed. I owned my house, no mortgage. I have clean title. I am wondering is it secure if without realtor or title company involved? what is the best approach? Thanks.
You should have an attorney review whatever contract the guy is offering. Should be a few hundred bucks. Why do you think your house didn't sell when listed with an agent? Also, does your listing contract say anything like, if you sell within 60 days following the expiration you owe a commission? Some do, and you should double check that.
At the very least have an attorney represent you! They won't charge much to review the contracts, hold money in escrow etc.. $750-$1,200 max if your dealing with a decent smaller firm type attorney. This seems odd, but not unheard of p, but you need someone looking out for you.
RealEstate
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cambcloud
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wamazing
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dgchddx
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Flymia
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Wife (teacher) has no paid time off for upcoming baby. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hello All- My wife (3rd grade teacher in Iowa) recently switched to a new school district for this school year (2017). Unfortunately with that change her employer is advising that she only has 9 personal days to use and any time off over that will be not paid. Do we have any options with short term disability or anything of that nature to help? She was advised that FMLA does not apply due to her being there less than a year. Any advice/council is appreciated!
FMLA isn't paid leave. It just guarantees you won't lose your job if you return within the set timeframe. If she already had a short term disability policy before she got pregnant, then that may have a provision for pay post-delivery. If she doesn't already have one, one she gets now will not cover pregnancy or delivery.
I’d go through her former bargaining agreement and her current employers bargaining agreement and make sure there is no sick leave rollover. In my state you can switch districts within the state and keep accrued sick leave/personal time/years of service(regarding pay scale placement). While I believe that’s a state law it’s also stated in the bargaining agreement for clarity. However often that transfer of information is not automatic and you may have to call the old district to have them send over documentation.
personalfinance
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12
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bobby52549
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Alterageous
null
dpmvnoc
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whatsupyoucoolbaby
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Mom died. No will, no bank accounts. Few possessions. Her entire estate is her last paycheck and state/federal tax returns. How do I negotiate them?
The returns arrived a couple days after she passed, she had already filed. My bank won't touch them since they're not made out to me for obvious reasons. I opened a small estate at the courthouse, but the bank says that's not good enough to open an estate account (even though that's what they told me to do in the first place.) How can I negotiate these checks? Taking about under 5k. Am I better off asking to have them reissued? They're all from the government (she worked for the state) so that's a bit daunting. I'm just looking to cover the expenses I pulled from savings for her cremation, service, etc. The rest is going in the kids' college fund. Appreciate any advice.
Sorry for your loss. For the federal refund, if unable to negotiate the refund even with the small estate open, and you decide to return it, I would suggest you do the following. Write "void" in the endorsement section on the back of the check, include an explanation of why the refund is being returned,ask for a new check in your name and include a properly completed [Form 1310] (
If she works for the state chances are that she has a pension or retirement account with them, and possibly a small life insurance policy. Call HR for where she worked.
personalfinance
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[deleted]
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meontheR
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privateprblms
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How do you all feel about stocks related to marijuana companies?
How do you all feel about stocks related to marijuana companies? I’ve heard I shouldnt invest in the companies themselves but rather in the companies that produce growing tech and apparatuses and chemicals, like miraclegro. I imagine there will be a boom in the need for these hints in the next decade or sooner.
Personally, I believe there are some very good cannabis companies to buy into now while they are young and expanding. With a 5 year time horizon I can see major gains. Canadian is set to legalize in July so most of the companies I look at are Canadian. These companies are international companies and sell to Italy, Australia, Brazil. Once the US legalizes (5-10 years?) The Canadian companies will crush the US companies because of the head start. That being said, you HAVE to be long on these stocks. The market is super volatile and if you have a week stomach you will get scared away. Head on over to /r/weedstocks to read up on the important stuff. There are some awesome chart analysis posters, lots of financial information (which I post) and lots of news.
stupidly overvalued at this point. Has anyone who buys these actually looked at their numbers? These companies are making like 10-20mil a quarter revenue and their valued at like 6 billion market cap. Utterly ridiculous and classic bubble. And for everyone saying "lol gonna hold until legalization in july and then sell," guess what: literally everyone has that plan. Guess what happens to price when everyone wants to sell at the same time...
stocks
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AbstractLogic
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Are Credit Cards THAT Necessary?
Excuse me for my lack of understanding or terminology, i've never had too much experience in this field, and just recently turned 18. As of now, i've only opened a checking account with a debit card, because i feel that i should only be spending money that i have physically earned, and have under my name. Now, from my understanding, a credit card is almost the opposite: its money i dont have that im still spending. I've been told its good to start one, buy small things and pay it back, so on my record, it goes i've payed on time. But just how important would this be down the line? Should I start sooner than later, or just avoid it? thank you for all the help
Now, from my understanding, a credit card is almost the opposite: its money i dont have that im still spending. Spending money you don't have would be a poor use of credit cards. Plenty of people use credit cards who have money.
You can get a rental car without a credit card. You can get a mortgage without a credit score. Debit cards can be run as a credit card, in which case they provide the same protections as a credit card. It is common to live a debt-centric lifestyle. Many people do so responsibly, but many more people do not. My parents told me the same things you've heard about getting a good credit score early, so I did that. Now that I've grown up some more, I know that it wasn't necessary. Are those who use debt responsibly necessarily in a better position than those who only spend money they already have? I do not believe so. While there can be ways to responsibly use a credit card—and it is okay, although more risky, if you decide to go that route—you should also be advised that there are many people out there who do not use credit cards or debt of any kind at all, and they are able to become wealthy just as fast (but most likely even faster). Don't fall into the trap of thinking that debt and credit cards is the only way to fit into this society. Check out Dave Ramsey for more information on the debt-free lifestyle and how people have used his program to achieve wealth for their retirement.
personalfinance
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QueenCobalt
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eschewing_alpha
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mk2ja
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Preparing Financially for a Child with Special Needs
Hi Reddit, Long story short, my wife and I are adopting a 5 yr. old boy from foster care that has Cerebral Palsy and a minor brain injury. He is pretty high functioning (can speak in full sentences, feed himself, etc.). How can I prepare for this financially? Since he is being adopted through foster care, all his medical needs are covered. What will social security pay? Should I open a 529 (college savings acct.) if we are not sure he will be going to college? Could go wither way. What about life insurance, long term care, etc.? I know this is a lot of questions but I would appreciate any advice.
Social Security (SSI) for a disabled child is dependent on need. So if you and your wife have a good income and a solid amount of savings odds are you will be unable to qualify for anything. Now if you have a lower income you should definitely be applying. You can find the formula for SSI income thresholds on the SS website. Even if your son never goes to college if he is qualified as disabled he/you can withdraw money from a 529 without penalty; plus that 529 account can be used to pay for vocational training and other educational expenses beyond traditional college. You and your spouse will both want a large term life policy so that if something should happen to either of you your son will be taken care. If he may still need continued financial support as a young adult you may need 25-30 year term policy with a much larger payout than is usually recommended (normal is 8x-10x income). Also another financial instrument to investigate is ABLE accounts. If your son qualifies as disabled you could stash money into his ABLE account that can grow tax free and be used later on to pay for his future living expenses without impacting his eligibility for future disability payments once he is an adult.
I cant give any useful advice regarding the accounts or anything but you should keep in mind just general kids stuff - clothes, toys, possibly special feeding equipment (depends on the child's needs but there are specially designed bowls and cutlery etc. that make it easier for people with special needs), field trips etc. Just thinking of the things my mother spent her money on excluding the covered medical fees with her special needs foster child; extra sheets, mattress protectors and pillow cases as well as extra blankets etc for all around the house, a lot of clothes (she gets a bit dribbly/has accidents and grew quickly), a lot of different types of cups and water bottles to find what she could drink out of, diet supplements (she was very underweight when she first started living with us), in this case the whole years worth of diapers weren't supplied so those were bought at times. I'm sure there is more, but the other big thing was time. She had a lot of doctor and specialist appointments spread out across different areas which required somebody taking a day off to take her, she got sick quite often and had to be kept home whenever she did or had to be picked up from school
personalfinance
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GreenDrum
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19, M, Canadian, 30k saved, looking for wisdom from people more experienced than I am.
About me: -19 year old male -living in Alberta, Canada -high school diploma (no university education) -30 000 in the bank (no debt) I was born into a poor family and learned the importance of saving early on. I've never made extravagant purchases (minimal brand name clothes, cheap car for getting to work, no high end super phones, never blow my money at bars, etc...) I've spent the last 2 years since I graduated high school working and saving and living at home. I now have 30 000 dollars to my name but my social circle is very small and opportunities to ask people for advice are few and far between. I like my current job (landscaping at 19/hr) it keeps outside and healthy, and I've been told that if I stick around I could be a foreman in another 2 years. I've always liked biology and physics but I'm not sure what I want to do in regards to post secondary education. My grades in high school weren't very great because I was super lazy with homework and mostly coasted by on test marks (stupid, I know). The cost of living here is pretty damn high and in several months I'm going to have to move out on my own. I could stick where I am and keep saving despite high rent, or go to university, or move somewhere cheaper and work, or move somewhere cheaper and go to school there... frankly I'm not sure and I don't wanna blow my chances. I'm not looking for a magic bullet or someone to solve all my problems, I simply want to take advantage of an opportunity to take advice from people older and wiser than I am in relation to my specific circumstances. Thank you for your time.
I'd suggest posting on /r/PersonalFinanceCanada for this one. I could give you advice on how to invest in Canada, but I think investing in your education and/or career is probably your best bet and you'll probably get better advice there.
You could probably buy a coke for all the 17,000 laid off target workers. Or you could buy the 133 target stores that will soon be empty in Canada. Sorry, Eh! -Minnesota Guy
personalfinance
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Referendone
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-13
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Cokeday
t1_cnqozsg
cnqozsg
1,421,391,729
1,424,847,397
null
Couples who live together and use Mint... how?
Hi all, Short and sweet: my girlfriend and I both use Mint extensively; I introduced her to saving & budgeting and she's taken it to heart (we now plan to retire early). My question is, what's the easiest way to handle our individual budgets once we move in together and start sharing expenses?
My boyfriend and I both use Mint to track our own finances and we live together. We have our own budgets. For example: Say your rent is $1,000 and you each pay $500 a month for rent. She pays you $500 a month and you pay the landlord $1,000 a month. You can balance your mint budget to show that you "made" $500 for your rental budget, and "spent" $1,000 for your rental budget= $500 in your rental budget. She will have something show up on her account that she paid you $500, but she can tell mint that it's her rental expense. Does that make sense? I'm not sure if I'm doing a good job explaining. The gist is, you don't have to actually combine any of your mint stuff.
Well... My wife and I do not combine assets (except our mortgage). We have separate bank accounts (hell, we're actually at different banks). Our monthly expenses make up about 75% of our income, so we just agree to put 75% of our paychecks in our "joint checking account" that we only use for the purpose of paying bills. Everything else is separate.
personalfinance
16
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switch009
1,398,794,781
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null
t3_24an8u
false
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null
12
0
xsolv
t1_ch5bc88
ch5bc88
1,398,801,439
1,433,577,621
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skeach101
t1_ch5fsww
ch5fsww
1,398,810,321
1,433,579,725
null
No options trading on RobinhoodUK, isn't treating people different because of where they come from RACISM?
Robinhood finally announced it's arrival to the UK today and opened up the waitlist. For those of us who have watched you lot throw away your life savings on options but haven't been allowed to participate I thought this was our time. Went on Robinhood's website and they confirmed NO options trading for RobinhoodUK. Explain to me how this isn't racist on Robinhood's part to differ their offerings based on someones background?
You can spread bet currencies which allows you to leverage up and can also legally bet on sports. Furthermore, gambling winnings are not taxed in the UK. In many ways you have it better than us. Either way, I wish you luck in losing all your money :)
They probably just haven't started it up yet....and you have to wait like three days or something like that after making an account on top of your answers to their risk management questions before RH let's you trade options.
wallstreetbets
2
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RVCFever
1,574,265,265
1,586,611,647
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t3_dz3xai
false
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deathbydimsum
null
f85f3o5
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1,583,465,432
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1
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Ackiees
null
f87eeu0
1,574,329,097
1,583,500,146
null
How can I profit from obesity?
I predict that the world will get fatter and fatter. How can I make money from this? Preferably stocks on a canadian exchange.
$VGHCX It has historically been a very high performing mutual fund and will likely continue to do so for reasons that you have mentioned. Also, throw in an aging baby-boomer population.
The world will keep getting fatter but this also incentivizes pharma and the like to create an obesity "cure" (well, one that isn't eating less). There's lots of research going into this and I'm assuming it will be solved in 10 years or so. That said, we will see how much this will cost. Curing obesity might be a bigger moneymaker than curing something like cancer at this point given the prevalence.
investing
43
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vjfvvxgh
1,499,130,610
1,502,064,513
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t3_6l3yrw
false
30
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null
null
1000_Louisiana_77002
null
djqyjh1
1,499,132,785
1,499,883,237
null
1
null
null
null
Fletch71011
null
djr3w3u
1,499,140,788
1,499,885,853
null