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BigCode 970

[ { "answer_id": 6390, "author": "Valmond", "author_id": 8328, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8328", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This looks a lot like <strong>under extrusion caused by heat creep</strong>.</p>\n\n<p>Heat creep is when the nozzle temperature 'creeps' up through the filament and makes it melt (a bit) and form a blob (or just widen enough to get stuck) a centimeter or two before the nozzle.</p>\n\n<p>The characteristic is usually that everything works perfectly well for some quite fix amount of time, then there is severe under extrusion.</p>\n\n<p>Solutions:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Lower the temperature (yes, as then the heat won't creep as much!)</li>\n<li>Add a fan cooling down the cooling part of the print head</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>I have the same print head as you it seems (E3D 1.75 all metal) and I had heat creep when I changed the fan to a less noisy one (but also less effective).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6393, "author": "Sean Houlihane", "author_id": 4927, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This suggestion may not apply in your specific case (you seem to have looked closely at the problem, and it doesn't really fit the apparent time-dependence) but you might have an issue with the extrusion drive. If your hobbed drive isn't tight on the stepper motor then the 'push' might not be enough to match the force you've tested by hand. This explains one way that the extruder can be more sensitive to small performance variations than you would normally expect (heat build up somehow contributing to those variations).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6408, "author": "Toon", "author_id": 9303, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9303", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I have a possible cause for my problems. XT is sensitive to moisture (hydrolytical stability) When I extruded 20mm filament manually, the string felt a bit rough. When I looked closer very tiny bubbels where visible. I baked the filament at 60°C for 2 hours.</p>\n\n<p>The baked filament allowed me to print a perfect model. </p>\n\n<p>But after one print the filament is again affected by moisture so I need to build a dry-box and do some more tests before I come to a conclusion. </p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6377", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9303/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 6405, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>When homing the printer, the hot end carriage will be instructed to hit the (mechanical or optical) end stops. From this point a well configured firmware knows where to find the origin of the heat bed. </p>\n\n<p>For the printer to know the origin of the bed, offsets are defined in the firmware from the end stop locations to the actual origin of the heat bed. </p>\n\n<p>E.g. in Marlin Firmware this is defined by</p>\n\n<pre><code> #define X_MIN_POS -35 ; move the head 35 mm to the right to place the \n ; nozzle at X = 0\n #define Y_MIN_POS -8 ; move the head 8 mm to the back (or the plate\n ; forward) to place the nozzle at Y = 0\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>When you change the hardware (e.g. carriage), you need to re-calibrate the movement from the end stop location to the origin of the bed. Note that any arbitrary point on the heat bed can be used to re-calibrate this. E.g. the center of the bed can also be used, and is frequently much more easy to re-calibrate as the heated beds usually have rounded corners or are slightly larger than the actual print area (e.g. I have a 300 x 300 mm heat bed that actually measures 315 x 315 mm). Printing a large square on the heat bed will therefore give you a good impression of the offset of the nozzle due to your new carriage design. </p>\n\n<p>Note that, if you cannot or will not flash new firmware, an alternative solution exists to set new incremental offset values using the <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes\" rel=\"noreferrer\"><code>M206</code></a> command <strong>IF</strong> <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes\" rel=\"noreferrer\">your current firmware supports</a> this.</p>\n\n<p>A detailed description to re-calibrate is found in answer <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6376/5740\">How to center my prints on the build platform?</a> or in external link <a href=\"https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529\" rel=\"noreferrer\">Bed center calibration</a>.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6648, "author": "Greenonline", "author_id": 4762, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p><em>Following on from 0scar's answer</em></p>\n<hr />\n<p>To change or obtain your EEPROM settings you need to open Repetier Host (for Linux or Windows, v2.1.3 - the OSX version I tried, v1.1.0, didn't seem to have this functionality).</p>\n<h3>To change existing settings</h3>\n<p>From <a href=\"https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/4641/how-to-make-changes-to-the-eeprom-data\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">How to make changes to the EEPROM data</a>. Apparently there is an EEPROM editor available (in Repetier Host). From <a href=\"https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/comment/18712/#Comment_18712\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">this post</a>:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>If you see it in eeprom editor just change them. If it is repetier-firmware based it will store changes in eeprom on pressing &quot;ok&quot;.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<h3>To retrieve existing settings</h3>\n<p><a href=\"https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/comment/2817/#Comment_2817\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">This post</a> from <a href=\"https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/933/retrieval-of-existing-settings\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">retrieval of existing settings...</a>, shows how:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>To copy eeprom data:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Connect with host</li>\n<li>Open eeprom settings</li>\n<li>Select export eeprom settings. That saves all data in a epr file and you can later use import eepsom settings to rewrite it.</li>\n</ul>\n</blockquote>\n<p>An example of the resulting file is shown in the question, <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4184/help-with-repetier-firmware-variables-dimension-dual-delta-j-group-robotics\">Help with Repetier firmware variables (Dimension Dual Delta - J Group Robotics)</a>, a sample of which I have included below:</p>\n<pre><code>&lt;Repetier-Firmware-EEPROM&gt;\n&lt;epr pos=&quot;1028&quot; type=&quot;0&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&gt;Language&lt;/epr&gt;\n&lt;epr pos=&quot;75&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;115200&quot;&gt;Baudrate&lt;/epr&gt;\n&lt;epr pos=&quot;129&quot; type=&quot;3&quot; value=&quot;32.752&quot;&gt;Filament printed [m]&lt;/epr&gt;\n&lt;epr pos=&quot;125&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;21644&quot;&gt;Printer active [s]&lt;/epr&gt;\n&lt;epr pos=&quot;79&quot; type=&quot;2&quot; value=&quot;0&quot;&gt;Max. inactive time [ms,0=off]&lt;/epr&gt;\n</code></pre>\n<hr />\n<p>However, you would appear to have to be running Repetier firmware for these two solutions to work, and not Marlin (but I may be wrong).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6660, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p><a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762/greenonline\">Greenonline</a> and I spent this evening hacking/reverse engineering the Ender3 to solve this. <a href=\"https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2018/08/13/compiling-marlin-for-a-creality-ender-3/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Greenonline also wrote about this in his blog</a>.</p>\n<h2>Step 1 - Get the Firmware</h2>\n<p>To do this, there are basically two ways:</p>\n<ol>\n<li>Find the a ready-to-use firmware</li>\n<li>Make your own</li>\n</ol>\n<p>Variant 1 would be to use the pre-supplied .hex files from Creality or some other manufacturer. Variant 2 means writing the settings yourself or using <a href=\"https://www.repetier.com/firmware/v100/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Repetier firmware</a> to write the files for you. In the case of the Ender 3, the chip used sadly disqualified Repetier firmware, so writing it yourself is the only option.</p>\n<p>To write the firmware yourself or using Repetier firmware, you need the old settings. To get these, connect the printer via USB, connect it with a software like <a href=\"https://www.repetier.com/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Repetier host</a> and send <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>M503</code></a> to get all the settings.</p>\n<p>Now, either hack those into Repetier firmware or use a blank <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>Marlin.ino</code></a> and the Arduino IDE to customise it. In the later case, you need to put the folder <code>Marlin-?.?.X.ZIP/Marlin-?.?.X/Marlin</code> into the <code>Arduino</code> folder in Documents (Windows) or Home (Mac). Now open the <code>Marlin.ino</code> in <a href=\"https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Arduino IDE</a>. Set up the new firmware with these base settings or adjust as needed.</p>\n<h2>Step 2 - Adjust</h2>\n<p>Now that we have our Configuration files (in the end we pretty much skipped step 1 and <a href=\"https://www.chaos-drucker.de/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Marlin-Ender3-V1.zip\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">grabbed a fitting (<strong>German!</strong>) one</a> from <a href=\"https://www.chaos-drucker.de/anleitungen-und-tutorials/creality-ender3-mit-marlin-ausstatten/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Christian</a>, a German maker also known as &quot;Chaos-Drucker&quot;), we need to first adjust them as needed to fit our needs and then compile them properly (next step!). As an alternative (<strong>English!</strong>) base to work with, the <a href=\"https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-base/th3d-unified-firmware/?seq_no=10\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">TH3D firmware</a> is also available, provided by the Hooglands and team at TH3D.</p>\n<p>So, let's open your <code>Marlin.ino</code> with <a href=\"https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">arduino</a> and find the <code>X_MIN_POS</code> (<code>CTRL</code>+<code>F</code> &gt; <code>X_MIN_POS</code> &gt; Search all sketches).</p>\n<p>In the configurations we grabbed the sketch file <code>Configuration.h</code> contains lines 786-789 <em>(might differ)</em>:</p>\n<pre><code>// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.\n#define X_MIN_POS -10\n#define Y_MIN_POS -15\n#define Z_MIN_POS 0\n</code></pre>\n<p>Adjust these till the wanted position is achieved - Repetier Host can help here to determine the right position.</p>\n<h2>Step 3 - Compile</h2>\n<p>The hardest step with the Ender3 was to get the code to actually compile, as it uses an <a href=\"http://www.technoblogy.com/show?19OV\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">ATmega1284P 16Bit</a> which isn't supported by Arduino natively. While the <a href=\"https://github.com/MCUdude/MightyCore\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">MightyCore</a> supports this chip, it doesn't compile with this hardware library. However, Christian did figure out that the <a href=\"https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Sanguino</a> set to an ATmega 1284P 16bit does work. These belong as <em>extracted folders</em> into the <code>Arduino/hardware</code> folder, usually in your Documents (if you use Windows) or Home (on mac). Now, we did set <code>Tools&gt;Board:&gt; Sanguino</code> and <code>Tools&gt;Processor:&gt;ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)</code></p>\n<p>It was also mandatory to have the <a href=\"https://github.com/olikraus/U8glib_Arduino\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">U8glib.h for Arduino</a> installed. To do this, download the zip from github, then in the Arduino software <code>Sketch&gt;Include Library&gt;Add .ZIP Library...</code> and choose the whole zip repository to auto install.</p>\n<p>With these settings we were able to compile the settings.</p>\n<h2>Step 4 - Getting it on the machine</h2>\n<p>Most people would expect to read about bootloaders and flashing now, and indeed that is an option. But as I had just figured out <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6654/how-to-install-a-hex-firmware\">how to install firmware from .hex</a> and so I wondered: Can't we make .hex files from our settings? And yes, <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6658/8884\">Arduino supports this</a>.</p>\n<p>So, in Arduino IDE press <code>Ctrl</code>+<code>Alt</code>+<code>S</code> (or <code>Sketch &gt; Export Compiled Binary</code>). This will result in two files:</p>\n<ul>\n<li><code>Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex</code></li>\n<li><code>Marlin.ino.with_bootloader.sanguino.hex</code></li>\n</ul>\n<p>Of these two, the <code>Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex</code> is the interesting one for &quot;direct flashing&quot; via CURA. Use this file with the process starting at Step 2 <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6655/8884\">here</a> or use one of <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6656/8884\">Greenonline's solutions</a> to get the firmware flashed - no bootloader needed!</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6399", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 6411, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 4, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This is not universally valid G-code, and how it is handled depends on the implementation. You can use this style of comment on <em>some</em> machines, but not all.</p>\n\n<p>The way parsing used to be implemented in Marlin (a very common 3D printer firmware), it would work fine unless the comment string included a X, Y, Z, E or F character. The parser simply looks for the first occurrence of X/Y/Z/E/F and then tries to parse the bit of text appearing after that character into a number. If the string cannot be parsed as a number, it defaults to 0 instead. For example,</p>\n\n<pre><code> G0 (Some comment containing the character Y) Y10 Z-5\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>would be interpreted as <code>G0 Y0 Z-5</code> and not as <code>G0 Y10 Z-5</code>, because \") \" (the string appearing after the first occurrence of \"Y\") does not parse to any valid number. Your example happens to work fine because the comment string doesn't contain any special characters.</p>\n\n<p>Marlin does support end-of-line comments, which should start with a semicolon and continue until the end of the line.</p>\n\n<p>This is how it used to work in older Marlin versions. Newer Marlin versions have a more advanced parser, but it still would not play well with these parentheses-style comments. It is best to avoid them, as compatibility is not guaranteed.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6412, "author": "Jan Vorisek", "author_id": 12353, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12353", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>It looks like comments inside parentheses are not allowed in numerous parsers (ie. Marlin). This seems to be true for most of the 3D printers. Classical CNC milling machines use parentheses without problems.</p>\n<p>It should work on Prusa printers as stated in their <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Comments\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Wiki</a>. Unfortunately there are no words about nesting of the comments.</p>\n<p>I have however found a comment on cnczone.com forums regarding the nesting of comments within parentheses.</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>Printable characters and white space inside parentheses is a comment. A left parenthesis always starts a comment. The comment ends at the first right parenthesis found thereafter.</p>\n<p>Once a left parenthesis is placed on a line, a matching right parenthesis must appear before the end of the line.</p>\n<p>Comments may not be nested; it is an error if a left parenthesis is found after the start of a comment and before the end of the comment.</p>\n<p>Here is an example of a line containing a comment: <code>G80 M5 (stop motion)</code></p>\n</blockquote>\n<p>Source: <a href=\"https://www.cnczone.com/forums/g-code-programing/103434-coments-g-code.html#post763510\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">cnczone.com</a></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6410", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12353/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 6453, "author": "tbm0115", "author_id": 98, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Your bed is obviously capable of heating up, so I would double check your cable for any kinks, cuts, blow-outs, or general connection issues both where your machine rests during warm-up and Z0 where your machine begins printing.</p>\n\n<p>Most likely there is a poor connector or kinked/cut wire for the build plate.</p>\n\n<p>If that doesn't appear to be the issue, I might also suggest checking your power supply. I've heard of other similar machines' power supplies not being quite strong enough to support two extruders AND a heated bed.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6464, "author": "cmm", "author_id": 2082, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Check your slicer settings. Some slicers allow the temperature to change at a specified layer. You may have programmed the slic3r to turn off the bed after the first (or maybe zeroth) layer.</p>\n\n<p>You call also examine the G-code for M140, M144, and M190 commands.</p>\n\n<p>Of course, the usual intermittent electric connections, power supply failures, etc. should be checked, but don't overlook the possibility that it is working exactly as you are asking it to work. </p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6505, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Preheating the bed is a commonly used approach to shorten the time to print. I'll explain; it actually does not shorten the physical print time itself, but before you start a print there is always stuff to do like inserting the SD-card or loading the model in the print server, while you do that, the bed will be heating, so time gained.</p>\n\n<p>When you load a model it apparently resets the temperatures, so preheating will only have an effect when you also actually set the bed temperature in the G-code file. This means that either your G-code file has some codes that influence the temperature, the connector is loose or loading a print over the program you use must reset the bed temperature, there aren't any other options.</p>\n\n<p>To comment on your G-code, M109 is used to set the extruder temperature and wait till it is reached, M190 is used to set the bed temperature and wait till it is reached. Usually M190 is used to set the bed temperature before the first layer is being printed; the printer waits until the temperature is reached before the printer continues to the next command (usually the heating of the hotend). If you have selected a different temperature for the rest of the print you will find the M140 G-code command prior to printing the second layer.</p>\n\n<p>I have tested on my Prusa i3 clone running a Marlin fork to print a model with all references to M190 and M140 removed. I pre-heated to 70 &deg;C (for PETG) and loaded the model in OctoPrint print server and commenced the print. The printer retained the bed value and did not drop.</p>\n\n<p>Basically, it is needed to take a closer look at your G-code file. The answer must be in there. If there is nothing to find in the G-code file and electronic connections are fine, the answer must be found in ReplicatorG, this might send reset signals prior to sending the print, but that sounds really strange.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6451", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1397/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 6491, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>If you want to mirror the print to get the top to the bottom, and visa versa, you just need to rotate the part using the XYZ rotation tool. Mirroring is used to make a mirror image in the X-Z or Y-Z plane, not the X-Y plane. </p>\n\n<p>You might just caught a bug, you could post that of their forum.</p>\n\n<p>Update: </p>\n\n<p>If that does not fix it, you might have an incorrect STL model, e.g. the normals of the faces are incorrect. You could try to fix this by repairing the model through an online service like <a href=\"https://service.netfabb.com\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">this one</a>.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6492, "author": "OyaMist", "author_id": 10938, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10938", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The up- or down-ness of a part is its Z-orientation, which is specified in STL. It looks like whoever published that STL file published it upside down, requiring you to flip the part or rotate it by 180. You can flip it in Cura as you've done or leave a comment to the author of the STL that the part is upside down. However, the author may not know how to fix this because low-end modeling tools typically do not have the capability of flipping a model. In these cases, using another tool such as Cura or Slicer can generate a right-side up model. Cura seems to like generating AMF files, so I use Slicer to generate STL files for upside down models. Once you correct the STL file, you'll be able to import the model directly into Cura right-side up.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6495", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12468/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 6601, "author": "Davo", "author_id": 4922, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Sure. Get a 0.1mm thick feeler gauge. </p>\n\n<p><a href=\"http://duckduckgo.com/?q=feeler+gauge+.1mm\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">http://duckduckgo.com/?q=feeler+gauge+.1mm</a></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6604, "author": "Greenonline", "author_id": 4762, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I'm not sure exactly what you mean by your comment to Davo's answer, but with respect to your use of a sheet of paper reference, it seems like you can still use <em>80 gsm</em> paper as a reference for 0.1&nbsp;mm layers.</p>\n\n<p>From <a href=\"http://www.printware.co.uk/Blog/311/Paper-Sizes-Explained.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Paper Sizes Explained</a> (emphasis is mine):</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>There is no universal calculation for the thickness of paper based on the gsm as varitaions in paper composition can affect the weight, so two different brands of 120gsm paper could have slightly different thicknesses. However, <strong>an average sheet of 80gsm paper, the most commonly used weight, measures approximately 0.1mm in thickness</strong>, which means that <em>10 sheets would measure 1mm</em>. By comparison, <em>10 sheets of 120gsm paper would be 1.5mm thick</em>, assuming the paper composition was the same.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>So, given that:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>80&nbsp;gsm => 0.1&nbsp;mm</li>\n<li>120&nbsp;gsm => 0.15&nbsp;mm</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Then </p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>40&nbsp;gsm => 0.05&nbsp;mm</li>\n<li>60&nbsp;gsm => 0.075&nbsp;mm</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>From <a href=\"http://www.officexpress.co.uk/paper-guide/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">A Guide to Paper Types and Sizes</a></p>\n\n<pre><code>Paper Weight Descriptions\n\nWeight Feels Similar to:\n\n35-55 gsm Most newspapers\n90 gsm Mid-market magazine inner pages\n130-250 gsm A good quality promotional poster\n180-250 gsm Mid-market magazine cover\n350 gsm Most reasonable quality business cards\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>So, it would appear that you could use a newspaper sheet (or two) to test for layers of less than 0.1&nbsp;mm. Obviously this would depend upon where in the world you are, and the (physical) quality of your newspapers. Here in the UK, or rather Europe, the <em>exported version</em> of the Guardian used to be printed on some extremely lightweight paper (almost transparent tissue thin), in order to keep the costs of transport down to a minimum. So a folded sheet of that would certainly be in the range of 0.75 - 0.99&nbsp;mm (which seems to be the range that you are looking for). However, given that the printed media (as opposed to the online version) is currently in decline, I am not entirely sure if it is still available.</p>\n\n<p>Or, how about grease proof paper? From the <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greaseproof_paper\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Wikipedia entry</a>:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>Basis weights are usually 30–50 g/m²</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>Although, this paper has been processed (<a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supercalendered\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">supercalandered</a>) and treated with starch, which will increase the density, so the thickness will not correlate to the table above (i.e. it will be thinner).</p>\n\n<p>Giftwrap paper (not the really thick stuff) could be another option.</p>\n\n<p>After having doing some long winded googling, I guess that the best bet would be to get hold of a micrometer and measure whatever paper yourself, as the specifications of paper are generally given in <code>gsm</code> and not <code>mm</code> (which is a bit annoying), and so it is somewhat difficult to provide you with a definitive answer (without physically measuring it).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6617, "author": "Sean Houlihane", "author_id": 4927, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Maybe a better way to visualise 0.1mm is to explain that it only becomes really visible on a shallow slope. A 10 degree slope will place one layer boundary every 8mm, and these steps will probably be visible on a print.</p>\n\n<p>For a sphere, such as the 3D-hubs marvin, this means that the top portion will have a clear layering, but the majority of the shape should have minimal visible layers. For example, this was printed at 0.1mm layer as a test:\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wxrcr.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wxrcr.jpg\" alt=\"Sean&#39;s Marvin\"></a>\nYou could also say that the layer is about the same as the embossing on a typical coin (using the same photo as a reference), but realise that the resolution of embossing is greater.</p>\n\n<p>Looking inside the eyes of this model demonstrates how a gentle slope exposes the presence of layers.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7894, "author": "Dmitry Kasatsky", "author_id": 14121, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14121", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>IMO, better way for the thickness visualization is the <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler_gauge\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">feeler gauge</a>. Also it can be successfully used for the calibration of gap between the nozzle and the hotbed (instead paper)</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6600", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12562/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 6609, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>You are probably looking for something like <a href=\"https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2479352\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">this</a>:</p>\n\n<p><img src=\"https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/0f/68/62/46/9f/646e9a4ee9ff75a7f0cacb396a0b7ed4_preview_featured.jpg\" alt=\"leveling print object\"></p>\n\n<p>Note this is for large beds (300 x 300 mm), so you would have to X, Y scale this in your slicer.</p>\n\n<p>This is a simple part that is very easily generated with <a href=\"http://www.openscad.org\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">OpenSCAD</a> 3D design software (very good modeller if you are familiar with software coding), but could easily been designed in any <a href=\"https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_3D_modeling_software\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">other tool</a>.</p>\n\n<p>Another leveling and centering print that is created with OpenSCAD is <a href=\"https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">this</a>, and could be a start for you to create your own design:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/mH73a.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/mH73a.jpg\" alt=\"leveling and centering print object\"></a></p>\n\n<p>Note that the file with the design is located in the \"files\" section.</p>\n\n<p><strong>Edit</strong>:\nSome code for OpenSCAD made within 5 minutes (I don't type fast so it could have been faster if I did not use the constants, but if you go OpenSCAD, making parametric designs is almost a must ;) ):</p>\n\n<pre><code>// Set constants as you like\nwidth = 30;\ndepth = 30;\nlayer_height = 0.2;\nfirst_layer_height = 0.2;\nnr_of_layers = 2;\nbox_size = 180;\n\n// Calculated parameters\nheight = first_layer_height + (nr_of_layers - 1) * layer_height;\n\n// Draw the test object\ntranslate([-width/2, -depth/2,0]){\n // Draw the center square\n cube(size = [width, depth, height], center = false);\n // Draw the corner squares\n for (x=[-1:2:1]){\n for (y=[-1:2:1]){\n translate([x * (box_size-width)/2, y * (box_size-depth)/2, 0])\n cube(size = [width, depth, height], center = false);\n } \n } \n}\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Rendered figure:\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/bVNru.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/bVNru.png\" alt=\"rendered image of the 5 square level test print\"></a></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6611, "author": "Sean Houlihane", "author_id": 4927, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>One of the most accessible modelling tools has to be <a href=\"https://www.tinkercad.com/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">tinkercad</a>. Everything is done in the browser, and it even works (to an extent) on a tablet. </p>\n\n<p>I wouldn't recommend getting too attached to it, since it is fairly limited. As an introduction to modeling in 3D, and some of the spatial concepts that you will need to get used to, it works very well.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6606", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12587/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 6701, "author": "entropicCreator", "author_id": 12706, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12706", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Thermal expansion is opening a connection somewhere. It might not be one of your solderings, but if you shorted the board bad enough to fry pins, it could have cooked something somewhere else, and putting current through it is heating up the spot enough to break the connection. Either somewhere else in/on the board, or inside of the IC chip itself. </p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 15442, "author": "Jpawlin", "author_id": 26500, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26500", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I am having the same issue so in the firmware instead of changing to an empty pin, I swapped pins 6 and 7 so the nozzle temp would read from the bed temp plug on the board. Now the nozzle temp is reading properly i went into configurations.h line 291 and changed the 1 to 999 and on line 295 i changed the value to 60 now the bed temp will always be 60 so as long as my print settings match it will never engage the heat bed and allow the machine to print. Now I will use an ESP8266 nodeMCU to read the temp and control the MOSFET for the heat bed.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6619", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12596/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 6745, "author": "profesor79", "author_id": 9730, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9730", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>to help you to solve this problem - please see my checklist</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>are the stepper drivers connected correctly (pin1 to pin1)?</li>\n<li>stepper wiring is accurate (1a-1a..2b-2b)?</li>\n<li>is there enough voltage provided to the steppers (regulate)?</li>\n<li>if you are trying to move E0 or E1 then you need to disable cold extrusion as that stops rotation (waiting for 170C deg on the nozzle)</li>\n<li>is the firmware set to no move before homing (issue G28 first)?</li>\n<li>are pins set correctly for your board in Marlin?</li>\n</ol>\n\n<p>the led's are set on my ramps as they are mostly giving a stutus for heater fan and bed, so grbl software could use those pins differently</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7175, "author": "Baalaji V", "author_id": 12765, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12765", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I actually thought the problem is in the electronic circuit but the problem is the baud rate. I initially took the baud rate as 115200 but later. after someone's suggestion, I changed it to 250000 and now it's fine.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6744", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12765/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 6801, "author": "Greenonline", "author_id": 4762, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>I am not <em>entirely sure</em> if this is what you are after, or if it will work, but from <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2891#issuecomment-180980733\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">this post</a> on <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/2891\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Printing From SD Card when printer is turned On</a></p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>While an LCD controller is not needed for auto#.g to work, if you have an LCD controller you can use the <code>MENU_ADDAUTOSTART</code> option to add a menu command that will run the auto0.g, auto1.g, auto2.g whenever you want.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p>This (final) post ended up closing the thread so it appears to answer the OP's question - however, whether it will answer your question is another matter.</p>\n<hr />\n<p><a href=\"https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,833394\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">This post</a>, on the Marlin forum, replicates your question and asks about purely insertion of an SD card on a printer which is <em>already</em> powered on.</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?415,833394,833489#msg-833489\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">A reply</a> was received and apparently it should be possible by making a code change in <code>ultralcd.ccp</code>:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>It does not seem like an auto print, when inserting a SD-card, is to\nbe found in the current program code of Marlin.</p>\n<p>You might consider making a feature request here: [<a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">github.com</a>]</p>\n<p>I do not think that it would require much work to implement a\n&quot;card.autoprintfile()&quot; function in Marlin. It seems to me that a call\nto such a function could happen at line 5172 right after:</p>\n<pre><code>else\nLCD_MESSAGEPGM(MSG_SD_INSERTED);\n</code></pre>\n<p>in the file <code>ultralcd.ccp</code></p>\n</blockquote>\n<p>A subsequent feature request has been made on Marlin's GitHub, see <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/11815\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">[FR] Can G-code scripts be run automatically on inserting an SD card when using Marlin Firmware?</a></p>\n<p>However, from <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/11815#issuecomment-420791259\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">this reply</a>, it appears that a feature request is already pending:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>I'm not in favor of this as a general feature. We already have a\nfeature request to be able to run custom G-code in response to various\nevents, with SD card insertion being one of those events. Would that\nfeature serve your needs?</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p>However, as yet, I do not have a link to this other feature request. Will update as and when.</p>\n<hr />\n<p>As an aside, in might be worth mentioning that the SDFat related code could be the place to code this in, see <a href=\"https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=360754.0\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">if SD card removed, how to flag and restart?</a>, although after looking at the Marlin codebase, in particular <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/SdFatUtil.cpp\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>SdFatUtils.cpp</code></a>, this would appear to be a <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_herring\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">red herring</a>.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6814, "author": "amra", "author_id": 75, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/75", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I don't know what you would like to achieve.</p>\n\n<p>As @typo mentioned there is similar functionality which triggers at printer startup: <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Autostart\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/Autostart</a></p>\n\n<p>I found in Marlin's source code that you can enable that autostart feature to be triggered from menu. Just enable <code>MENU_ADDAUTOSTART</code> in <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration_adv.h</a>. </p>\n\n<p>If you really need a g-code that start after sd-card insert then you have to adjust the marlin source code on your own. I suggest to alter file <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/cardreader.cpp\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">cardreader.cpp</a>. There you have to trigger the autostart procedure after a sd-card is inserted.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6778", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 6864, "author": "Carl Witthoft", "author_id": 2191, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>As Oscar commented, check the tail end of your gcode files. Most slicing software includes commands to move the head to x=0,y=0 at the very least. I am a bit surprised that your files don't appear to have this, since Cura does apply said code. </p>\n\n<p>Possiblly there's something lacking in your printer's firmware and it doesn't recognize some of the gcode commands.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6868, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>As can be seen from the G-code file, the head is instructed to travel to x=0, y=0 (<code>G28 X0 Y0</code> is actually a homing instruction to home the head and label the position with zero X and zero Y). After that it powers off the motors (<code>M84</code>). </p>\n\n<p>From your picture, it looks like the head digs in the print without moving to the home position, so <code>G28 X0 Y0</code> is <strong>not working</strong> (although you mention it tries to move while digging in?!?). That is strange as there is no instruction to lower the head. Please alter <code>G28</code> to <code>G0</code> so that it reads:</p>\n\n<pre><code>G0 X0 Y0\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>(or <code>G1 X0 Y0</code> which does work and will instruct the head to move). </p>\n\n<p>The digging into the print could be explained by the weight of the head/carriage that cannot be held when the steppers are not powered anymore (as instructed by <code>M84</code>). When the nozzle is hot, the nozzle will then dig into your print.</p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p><strong>Edit</strong>:</p>\n\n<p>Now that I see your comment on another answer, your proprietary software may produce different G-code than Cura does, this could imply that your printer does not use a \"standard\" G-code interpreter or does not implement all G-codes.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6876, "author": "Sean Houlihane", "author_id": 4927, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>For some reason the <code>G28</code> command to home X and Y is not having an effect. I wonder if there is something 'special' in the firmware that affects how it homes.</p>\n\n<p>You can try to replace the G28 with a move (and maybe a different location would be better to place the extruder in the best position for removing your print).</p>\n\n<pre><code>G1 X0 Y0 ;Move to home position\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Best would be to look at one of the included 'pre sliced' models that are usually included with a printer to check the manufacturer's default end sequence.</p>\n\n<p>You might also be able to configure Cura to move up at the end of the print (so long as the print is not at maximum height).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 6888, "author": "Mark", "author_id": 48, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/48", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>From the provided G-code:</p>\n\n<pre><code>G28 X0 Y0\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>The meaning of the <code>G28</code> code is <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">move printhead to home</a>. In theory, the presence or absence of <code>X</code>, <code>Y</code>, and <code>Z</code> values are used to indicate which axes the printhead should move on, but as the RepRap wiki notes, some printers ignore this, typically interpreting any <code>G28</code> code as \"move to 0,0,0\". In particular:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>Because the behavior of G28 is unspecified, it is recommended not to automatically include G28 in your ending GCode. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use G0 or G1.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>You should probably replace the code with <code>G1 X0 Y0 Z[value near the top of your printer]</code>. You could simply replace <code>G28 X0 Y0</code> with <code>G1 X0 Y0</code>, but that risks dragging the tip of the nozzle across the upper surface of the finished print.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6860", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12878/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7160, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>If you change the extruder wheel for a different sized wheel, you need to calibrate the extruder to make sure that if you ask to extrude 100 mm it actually extrudes 100 mm. <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6484/5740\">This answer</a> on the question \"<a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/6483/5740\">How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?</a>\" describes how to do that.</p>\n\n<p>It is not required to flash your firmware. The G-code command <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>M92</code></a> can be used to set the new amount of steps for the extruder. The Monoprice Maker Select has a Melzi control board that is running Repetier firmware. This G-code command is supported by Repetier firmware.</p>\n\n<p>You need to be able to connect a so-called terminal to your printer. Applications as Repetier-Host, Pronterface, OctoPrint, and probably many more have so-called terminals where you can interface with the printer by sending command to it when the printer is connected through USB (please mind the communication speed of the board, called Baud rate, these are not the same for all boards).</p>\n\n<p>Sending <code>M503</code> will report the current settings for <code>M92</code>, e.g.:</p>\n\n<pre><code>M92 X100.00 Y100.00 Z400.00 E100.00\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Extrude 100 mm without the hotend attached so you can measure the amount that is extruded. If that is 80 mm you need more steps <span class=\"math-container\">$ \\frac{100\\ mm}{80\\ mm} \\times 100\\ steps/mm = 125\\ steps/mm $</span></p>\n\n<p>You now need to send <code>M92 E125</code> and the new steps are set. Use <code>M500</code> to store the setting.</p>\n\n<p>You could also change the flow extrusion parameter in your slicer, but it generally not good practice, it is better to fix the printer rather than adjusting in the slicer. However, if you do want to fix it in the slicer, as mentioned in the comments, you can also add steps setting in the start G-code script: <em>\"To get around flashing the new values to the ROM, you can add this to the machine settings in Cura under \"Start Gcode\" this way it will append your values at the start of every print.\"</em>. Note that other slicers have similar functionality.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7161, "author": "tjb1", "author_id": 233, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/233", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This will affect your extrusion rate. The best place to change this would be in your E steps located in the firmware but you can also compensate for this by changing the flow percentage in Cura, a setting of 103% (10.9/10.6) should get you close.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7159", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9201/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7210, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I have not tried this, but you could use the <code>M84 S0</code> command, this prevents the motors to go into an idle state.</p>\n\n<p>From the <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M84:_Stop_idle_hold\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>M84</code> G-code wiki</a> (firmware specific!):</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>On <strong><em>Marlin</em></strong>, Repetier and RepRapFirmware, M84 can also be used to\n configure or disable the idle timeout. For example, <code>M84 S10</code> will\n idle the stepper motors after 10 seconds of inactivity. <code>M84 S0</code> will\n disable idle timeout; steppers will remain powered up regardless of\n activity.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>What rests is to implement this command into your G-code file to be executed during pause. Depending on the pause method you could introduce this command. I have not tried this, but you could put the command in your start G-code and test if the motors keep powered!</p>\n\n<p>Furthermore, <em>a specific filament change command is available for specific firmware applications</em>. This code, <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M600:_Filament_change_pause\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>M600</code></a>, can be used to change filament. From the <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M600.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Marlin documentation</a> you can read (since you are using Marlin Firmware, you could use this G-code command):</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>The <code>M600</code> command initiates the filament change procedure. The basic\n procedure will move the print head away from the print, eject the\n filament, wait for new filament to be inserted and the user to\n confirm, load and prime the filament, and continue with the print.\n <code>M600</code> may be initiated automatically if a filament runout sensor is\n installed.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>Please do note that in Marlin Firmware the <code>M600</code> command is only available when the comments before <code>//#define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE</code> in the advanced configuration options file <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration_adv.h</a> are removed, hereby activating the command.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7211, "author": "towe", "author_id": 13171, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Is <code>ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE</code> enabled in your printers <code>configuration_adv.h</code> file?\nThere is a <code>PAUSE_PARK_NO_STEPPER_TIMEOUT</code> option included in there, which prevents the steppers from timing out during a pause, and may be more robust than a G-Code command if you plan to manually pause and resume the print instead of setting it up in the slicer.</p>\n\n<p>Alternatively, in the same file,</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME 120\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_X true\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Y true\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z true // set to false if the nozzle will fall down on your printed part when print has finished.\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_E true\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>can be found. You may want to increase the <code>DEFAULT_STEPPER_DEACTIVE_TIME</code>, or set </p>\n\n<pre><code>#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_X true\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Y true\n#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_Z true // set to false if the nozzle will fall down on your printed part when print has finished.\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>to <code>false</code> to keep X, Y and Z engaged while allowing movement of the extruder stepper only.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7207", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4454/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7263, "author": "Greenonline", "author_id": 4762, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p><em>This is not an answer/explanation per se, but it might help you track down the cause.</em></p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p>It <em>might</em> be worth <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M928.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">enabling logging</a> <code>M928</code> to the SD card (ensure that the R/W tab on the SD card is set appropriately), so that (after this has happened a few times) then you can look through the log to see what the command preceding the abort was, and if it is consistently the same (sequence of) commands that cause this to happen. </p>\n\n<pre><code>M928 filename\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>If that doesn't throw up anything obvious, then, in conjunction with logging, you could enable debugging, see <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M111.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>M111</code> Debug level</a>. For example:</p>\n\n<pre><code>M111 S7 ; ECHO, ERRORS, INFO\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Then run through the long print again. As before, after a few of the <em>click to resume print</em> messages, then go back and check the log for anything that might indicate why this is happening.</p>\n\n<p>To subsequently disable the debugging:</p>\n\n<pre><code>M111 S0\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7287, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>To answer your question directly, this action (<code>Click to resume...</code>) is triggered by a buffer overflow of the Marlin firmware that is caused by the repetitive sending of <code>M105</code> command by Ultimaker Cura (without checking the result).</p>\n\n<p>This problem is a <a href=\"https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/3994\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">reported problem</a> and fixed in the next release of Ultimaker Cura (please do note that as of posting this answer, the 3.6 Beta release is available for <a href=\"https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52744-ultimaker-cura-36-beta-available-now\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">download</a>). It appears to be a communication problem between Ultimaker Cura 3.4+ and 1.1.8+ versions of the Marlin firmware and has to to with polling of the temperature (<code>M105</code>). The link above also states it is fixed in the 3.6 release (which is the next release) as the fix has been integrated in the main code base.</p>\n\n<p>This describes the problem:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>To update the temperatures in the monitor, Cura sends M105 pings every\n 2 seconds. It seems that if this is done during a print without\n waiting for an <code>OK</code> from the printer, the serial buffer on the printer\n may still overflow eventually (causing Marlin to complain/pause).</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>and this describes the solution:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>During some operations, such as preheating, the printer responds to\n new commands with <code>echo:busy</code>. While it is busy, it does send\n temperature messages, but these are not prepended with an <code>ok</code>,\n because the <code>ok</code> is supposed to show that a command was received and\n executed. So the two patches I wrote do the following:</p>\n \n <ul>\n <li>the pattern matching no longer looks for <code>ok</code> messages, but looks for\n temperature updates (this fixes the temperature updating while the\n printer is preheating) </li>\n <li>once the printer has said that it is busy, stop\n asking for temperature updates until the next <code>ok</code> is received (this\n prevents the serial buffer overflowing while preheating)</li>\n </ul>\n</blockquote>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p><em>Old answer centered around the firmware (based on the text of the OP, no photo with the actual error message was added yet):</em></p>\n\n<p><strike>The text <code>click to resume print</code> cannot be found (with case insensitive search) in the latest sources of Marlin 1.1.9 down to Marlin 1.1.6. This means that you are using a different fork, an older version of Marlin or the message is not displayed as such.</p>\n\n<p>The text message <code>Resume print</code> can be found, and is part of the message constant <code>MSG_RESUME_PRINT</code></p>\n\n<pre><code>#define MSG_RESUME_PRINT _UxGT(\"Resume print\")\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>But, this cannot be found in some sort of a concatenation using <code>MSG_RESUME_PRINT</code>!</strike></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7363, "author": "divest divest", "author_id": 13395, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13395", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Tonight I had faced the same problem.</p>\n\n<p>I've read somewhere (can't find the source now) that this is a Cura bug that has been fixed in Cura 3.6 beta</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7547, "author": "HSaturn", "author_id": 13642, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13642", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>For your information, this problem has occurred for me with Cura 3.6.0 (yesterday and 2 days ago)</p>\n\n<p>I thought the problem was occurring with Marlin since 1.8.</p>\n\n<p>My Marlin version is 1.3 (... just discover that because of that issue!)</p>\n\n<p>As my printer works perfectly with 1.3, I'd prefer not to upgrade.</p>\n\n<p>I had the 'click to resume' problem twice. </p>\n\n<p>I've printed tons of ABS models without problem, two days ago, I've printed PLA models and had this issue. (70&nbsp;°C 200&nbsp;°C).</p>\n\n<p>For sure if the problem occurs again, I'll upgrade to Marlin 1.9 (or even 2.0 even if still in beta) because it seems that you <em>have</em> found the problem and already solved it; I was surprised to read that it was fixed in Cura 3.6 since I had the problem with that version.</p>\n\n<p>My printer is a Tevo Tarentula (modified, I've removed the pseudo bed leveling options because I prefer to level manually (no z move while printing)).</p>\n\n<p>One more information is that in parallel, I've decided to print the first layer at a very low speed (adhesion problems).</p>\n\n<p>I've changed from 30&nbsp;mm/s (ABS with big adhesion problems) to 10&nbsp;mm/s with PLA + Cura 3.6 and went into this bug (yes one could argue that I may print faster etc., but that's not the point here). Maybe I have the problem because I'm printing the 1st layer at a this slow speed (thus making the full buffer problem more critical).</p>\n\n<p>The bug does not occur each time I print, even when printing the same model with same parameters...</p>\n\n<p>@HuguesDug reported the <a href=\"https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/3994\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">same problem 14 days ago</a> and\n@Leeb answered him that running with Marlin 1.9 solved the problem.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7217", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13147/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7265, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>It is preferred to get the distance correct by hardware changes (leveling screws). But it is possible to do it with software. You can not only change the Z offset in the slicer or in the configuration of Marlin, but also with G-code commands. </p>\n\n<p>The \"paper drag\" method is perfect for determining the correct Z level. Once you leveled with the paper, you do not need to create an offset to account for the paper thickness, however, there are purists that do that. So basically, what we call Z=0 is in fact Z=\"paper thickness\", unless you are a purist. But a slightly larger gap makes printing much easier. Too small heights cause e.g. rippling effects or too much pressure build-up in the nozzle. In order to change your offset after leveling, you could try one of the following methods. This is sometimes a useful method for creating a little extra offset for printing PETG, but personally I do not do that.</p>\n\n<p><strong>In Ultimaker Cura</strong>:\nOpen the plugin manager (\"Toolbox\"->\"Browse packages...\") and install \"Z Offset Setting\", a new parameter will be available in the \"Build Plate Adhesion\" settings menu called \"Z Offset\". (See also <a href=\"/a/5939/5740\">this older, not up-to-date answer</a>)</p>\n\n<p><strong>In Marlin configuration file</strong>, modify the MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS constant:</p>\n\n<pre><code>//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0\n</code></pre>\n\n<p><strong>In G-code</strong>:</p>\n\n<p>By adding the following lines to your start G-code (see e.g. <a href=\"/a/4746/5740\">this answer</a>) using the <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G092.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>G92</code></a> G-code command:</p>\n\n<pre><code>G0 Z0.2 ; Move the head to 0.2 mm (so now 0.3 on your machine)\nG92 Z0 ; Call this Z = 0\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>or when you are able to connect to the printer over USB using a printer terminal (e.g. Pronterface, Repetier or OctoPrint) using the <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>M206</code></a> G-code command:</p>\n\n<pre><code>M206 Z-0.2 ; Will raise the Z height by 0.2 mm\nM500 ; Stores the offset in memory\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Alternatively, when you cannot connect through a terminal, putting the last 2 lines in a text file and saving that as a <code>.gcode</code> file on an SD card and \"printing\" the file will also store the new offset (if <code>M500</code> is enabled in the configuration file: <code>#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands</code>)</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 9954, "author": "Tifn", "author_id": 16476, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16476", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Based on Oscar's solution using M206, I found it convenient to add in my MicroSD card a hierarchy of such gcode files to set the Z offset to every possible value in some range. For example, \"printing\" the file z_offset/1mm/1mm2/1mm275.gcode will set (permanently) the Z offset to 1.275 millimeters.</p>\n\n<p>This hack is a workaround to the lack of Z offset setting in the printer's menu, and is an alternative to \"hardware\" Z tuning by moving the endstop. It can be useful when using different build plates with varying thickness, or attaching a pen or any other tool to the print head.</p>\n\n<p>Here is a simple bash script which creates the files taking the MicroSD card location as argument:</p>\n\n<pre><code>#!/bin/bash -e\n\nmkdir $1/z_offset\n\nfor i in {9..0}\ndo\n mkdir <span class=\"math-container\">$1/z_offset/\"$</span>i\"mm\n for j in {9..0}\n do\n mkdir <span class=\"math-container\">$1/z_offset/\"$</span>i\"mm/\"<span class=\"math-container\">$i\"mm\"$</span>j\"\n for d in 00 25 50 75\n do\n echo -e \\\n M206 Z-<span class=\"math-container\">$i.$</span>j<span class=\"math-container\">$d\\\\nM500\\\\nM117 Z-offset=\"$</span>i\".\"<span class=\"math-container\">$j$</span>d\"mm \\\n &gt;<span class=\"math-container\">$1/z_offset/\"$</span>i\"mm/\"<span class=\"math-container\">$i\"mm\"$</span>j\"/\"<span class=\"math-container\">$i\"mm\"$</span>j$d\".gcode\n done\n done\ndone\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>I chose a 0.025mm resolution, as 0.1mm is slightly to coarse to adjust for first layer issues. Tested successfully on a Creality Ender 3 printer (which seems to have a 0.015mm resolution on the Z-axis).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 9955, "author": "user77232", "author_id": 12857, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You don't! Level the bed such that you know the nozzle is above the bed. Stop the print. Disable the steppers. Let it all cool down. Tram the bed (or what you call level). Then start the print again. It doesn't matter what first layer height your slicer thinks it is. All that matters is that it sticks and doesn't elephant foot. Note, if you are using glue stick or white glue (like I do) the thickness of the glue layer will be different between the edge of the glass (I assume you're using glass, otherwise you're never going to get a good tram) and the starting position of the prints. </p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7264", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9960/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7335, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>If you move up the end stop such that it raises the nozzle with respect to the build platform you lose height, so basically the answer is yes. But, as seen in your referenced question, your nozzle location is determined by the mechanical layout of the printer and the end stop had to be raised in order to print at all. This means that although you have less height to move the Z gantry, it can now actually print the full range the printer is designed for (the max Z to print is fixed in the configuration of the firmware of the printer and is always smaller than the maximum Z of the mechanical layout). Theoretically, if you ever make a lower profile hotend head, you would be able to lower the end stop and gain a little in height and adjust the firmware maximum Z height.</p>\n\n<p>E.g. in Marlin firmware, for an Anet A8 3D printer,</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define Z_MAX_POS 240\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>in the <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/example_configurations/Anet/A8/Configuration.h\" rel=\"noreferrer\">Configuration.h</a> file defines the maximum print height of 240 mm. If you would deliberately increase the Z end stop height and platform by let's say 50 mm, the printer thinks it still can print 240 mm, but in reality the gantry will crash against the top mounts and thus limit your printing height.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10761, "author": "Olleg", "author_id": 14433, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14433", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>After adjusting the endstop check that the documented maximum height (150mm) is still achievable. Just move Z axis in the menu.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7334", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12573/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7357, "author": "Mark Harrison", "author_id": 6851, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6851", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>From a terminal window, run the command</p>\n\n<pre><code>open -n -a slic3r\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Each time the command is executed, a new instance of Slic3r is created.</p>\n\n<p>As per Carl's note, keep in mind that both instances of Slic3r will be sharing the same configuration files, so it will be safest not to save configuration changes while both are open.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7359, "author": "Greenonline", "author_id": 4762, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You could duplicate the application by clicking on the application and pressing <strong>Command (⌘) + D</strong>, and then run both - although I'm not sure if that would mess with the preferences. I haven't fully tested it, but both instances opened up and worked, seemingly ok.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/bjNcI.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\" title=\"Duplicate applications\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/bjNcI.png\" alt=\"Duplicate applications\" title=\"Duplicate applications\"></a></p>\n\n<p>You could even rename them to something other than \"Slic3r\" and \"Slic3r copy\" to remind you which application is slicing which model, for example:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>\"TestCube\" and \"Benchy\", or;</li>\n<li>\"Slic3r-TestCube\" and \"Slic3r-Benchy\", or whatever. </li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>However, Mark's answer seems much more elegant. </p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7355", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6851/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7374, "author": "Carl Witthoft", "author_id": 2191, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>It's not necessarily the case that the apparent underextrusion of a small portion of your raft is the root cause. ABS is notorious for shrinkage and peeling. As a start, you should have a full enclosure so as to maintain a warm environment while printing. </p>\n\n<p>It's also quite possible that your bed is slightly off-level or a few microns low for the first layer, either of which can cause adhesion problems. </p>\n\n<p>Yes, it's pretty much trivial to add a few lines of gcode to extrude prior to the \"official\" raft -- or you could just toss a fake small object into your slicer to extend the raft over both the real and the fake parts. </p>\n\n<p>FWIW, with a little care I've found a wide brim outperforms a raft for almost anything I print</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7375, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>In Ultimaker Cura you can select only one of the the build plate adhesion options skirt, brim or raft. You cannot select multiple options. </p>\n\n<p>There is no option available in Ultimaker Cura to increase the outline count of the raft bed adhesion structure. Basically the raft exists of a line support structure as can be seen in the figure below.\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/33dg0.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/33dg0.png\" alt=\"Ultimaker raft support structure layout\"></a>\nThe line around the lines should be considered \"the skirt\", so if the nozzle is not properly primed (not sufficient molten filament available), you need to properly prime the nozzle prior to printing.</p>\n\n<p>To prime the nozzle, you need to add some extrusion of filament in your start G-code.</p>\n\n<p>Personally, I like the style of Ultimaker where prior to printing, a puddle of filament is deposited priming the nozzle adequately. Basically you need to move to a position where you like to deposit filament:</p>\n\n<pre><code> G1 X10 Y10 Z2\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Then you need to extrude material</p>\n\n<pre><code> G1 F125\n G1 E10\n G1 Z3 E5\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>After that you can even <a href=\"/a/6356/5740\">wipe</a> the nozzle.</p>\n\n<p>Another option (that requires some copy/pasting from your side and would not be a recommended practice) that is possible is slicing the model with a skirt (with a sufficient distance to stay away from the raft position) instead of a raft and look at the generated G-code and copy the skirt deposition codes into the raft G-code file. You do need to take care of the proper length of the extruder when the skirt followed by the raft, so you need to use <code>G92 Exx.xx</code> where xx.xx is the actual length of the filament start for the raft. </p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7751, "author": "Gone Coding", "author_id": 13402, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13402", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>The latest update to Cura (3.6.0 at time of writing) added a printer configuration specifically for the Ender 3. </p>\n\n<h2>The <code>Start G-code</code> script now includes the following:</h2>\n\n<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nG28 ; Home all axes\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\nG1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\nG1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n; End of custom start GCode\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>This prints 2 initial lines, right along the left edge of the print bed. This solves the priming issue completely and results in a perfect initial border on the rafts.</p>\n\n<p>This would indicate this priming issue is a known problem with the Ender 3.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7372", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13402/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7374, "author": "Carl Witthoft", "author_id": 2191, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2191", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>It's not necessarily the case that the apparent underextrusion of a small portion of your raft is the root cause. ABS is notorious for shrinkage and peeling. As a start, you should have a full enclosure so as to maintain a warm environment while printing. </p>\n\n<p>It's also quite possible that your bed is slightly off-level or a few microns low for the first layer, either of which can cause adhesion problems. </p>\n\n<p>Yes, it's pretty much trivial to add a few lines of gcode to extrude prior to the \"official\" raft -- or you could just toss a fake small object into your slicer to extend the raft over both the real and the fake parts. </p>\n\n<p>FWIW, with a little care I've found a wide brim outperforms a raft for almost anything I print</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7375, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>In Ultimaker Cura you can select only one of the the build plate adhesion options skirt, brim or raft. You cannot select multiple options. </p>\n\n<p>There is no option available in Ultimaker Cura to increase the outline count of the raft bed adhesion structure. Basically the raft exists of a line support structure as can be seen in the figure below.\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/33dg0.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/33dg0.png\" alt=\"Ultimaker raft support structure layout\"></a>\nThe line around the lines should be considered \"the skirt\", so if the nozzle is not properly primed (not sufficient molten filament available), you need to properly prime the nozzle prior to printing.</p>\n\n<p>To prime the nozzle, you need to add some extrusion of filament in your start G-code.</p>\n\n<p>Personally, I like the style of Ultimaker where prior to printing, a puddle of filament is deposited priming the nozzle adequately. Basically you need to move to a position where you like to deposit filament:</p>\n\n<pre><code> G1 X10 Y10 Z2\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Then you need to extrude material</p>\n\n<pre><code> G1 F125\n G1 E10\n G1 Z3 E5\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>After that you can even <a href=\"/a/6356/5740\">wipe</a> the nozzle.</p>\n\n<p>Another option (that requires some copy/pasting from your side and would not be a recommended practice) that is possible is slicing the model with a skirt (with a sufficient distance to stay away from the raft position) instead of a raft and look at the generated G-code and copy the skirt deposition codes into the raft G-code file. You do need to take care of the proper length of the extruder when the skirt followed by the raft, so you need to use <code>G92 Exx.xx</code> where xx.xx is the actual length of the filament start for the raft. </p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7751, "author": "Gone Coding", "author_id": 13402, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13402", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>The latest update to Cura (3.6.0 at time of writing) added a printer configuration specifically for the Ender 3. </p>\n\n<h2>The <code>Start G-code</code> script now includes the following:</h2>\n\n<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nG28 ; Home all axes\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\nG1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\nG1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n; End of custom start GCode\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>This prints 2 initial lines, right along the left edge of the print bed. This solves the priming issue completely and results in a perfect initial border on the rafts.</p>\n\n<p>This would indicate this priming issue is a known problem with the Ender 3.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7376", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13420/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7413, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>I have had exactly the same experiences as you did with a inductive sensor on a Prusa i3 clone. It looks as though the bed leveling is not executed, or the level/mesh tilted. Please do note that automatic bed leveling is <strong><em>not magic</em></strong>, you still need to provide a <strong><em>build platform as level (and flat) as possible</em></strong>. A slate of glass is a good build platform surface as the glass production process ensures that the glass is very flat and easy to level.</p>\n\n<p>What I did to solve the problem is that I re-leveled the bed and send the <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M420:_Leveling_On.2FOff.2FFade_.28Marlin.29\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>M420 S1</code></a> command over USB to the printer to enable bed leveling as I was under the impression that it did not use the grid obtained with <code>G29</code>.</p>\n\n<p>On my CoreXY I also use a touch sensor (3DTouch, which is a BLTouch clone) like you do, even with that sensor I sometimes see that the automatic level is uneven (one side of the skirt has very thin/see through deposition, while the other side appears normal), this is most probably caused by the sensor accuracy (or an obstruction under the probe needle). There is a way to increase the probing accuracy by using double probing where the second probe is advancing slower to the build platform as can be seen in the Marlin Configuration.h file:</p>\n\n<pre><code>// Feedrate (mm/m) for the first approach when double-probing (MULTIPLE_PROBING == 2)\n#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z\n\n// Feedrate (mm/m) for the \"accurate\" probe of each point\n#define Z_PROBE_SPEED_SLOW (Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2)\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>For double probing you require to set:</p>\n\n<pre><code>// The number of probes to perform at each point.\n// Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result.\n// Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results.\n#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2\n</code></pre>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p><em>Side note:<br>\nFrom an earlier posting it appears that you are using the <code>#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER</code> in the configuration file to set the offset. It is much more convenient to set that through the <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lcd_menu.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">LCD menu</a> (<code>Bed Leveling</code> -> <code>Z Probe Offset: -–-</code>) or send the <code>M851 Zx.xx</code> directly over USB or load through a .gcode file from SD card to prevent numerous flashing the firmware with alternative parameters. Make sure that you enable:</em></p>\n\n<pre><code>#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands\n</code></pre>\n\n<p><em>in the Configuration.h file and execute <code>M500</code> to store the new setting set by <code>M851</code>.</em></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7423, "author": "Siebrand", "author_id": 13480, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13480", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>From the looks of your test print, this is unlikely all or only due to levelling unless the glass plate is abnormally uneven. You may have to check your extrusion (speed, temp, feed) parameters and/or adhesion (clean with aceton and/or prepare with hairspray or glue stck)</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7412", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13327/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7418, "author": "Davo", "author_id": 4922, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This needs to be on two lines like in your second example:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>G4 P4000<br>\n G1 F4000 E-50</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>See the RepRap Gcode Wiki for more info. <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code</a></p>\n\n<p>EDIT: if you actually want to retract and THEN pause, reverse it:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>G1 F4000 E-50<br>\n G4 P4000<br></p>\n</blockquote>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7419, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Yes, G-code is read line by line. G-code is a numerical control programming language. It basically instructs the machine sequentially line by line to do a specific task. The printer than executes the lines one by one until it reaches the end.</p>\n\n<p>If you instruct the printer to wait (<code>G4</code> dwell), it will do the wait/dwell first and than will execute the next command to retract the filament. As such, your examples will not work if you want to retract the filament during the pause, you reversed the process if you want to achieve that.</p>\n\n<p>To add a pause (simple) for e.g. filament changing, you should instruct the head to go to a certain position, extract the filament, and now insert the pause/dwell command. Give yourself enough time to insert and prime the nozzle and go back to the last location to continue printing. </p>\n\n<p>You could insert something like (e.g. in between layer change, before <code>G1 Zx.xx</code>):</p>\n\n<pre><code>...\nG1 X0 Y0 F2000 ; Relocate the print head\nG1 F4000 E-50 ; Retract filament\nG4 P40000 ; Wait for 40 seconds\nG92 E50 ; The new filament should continue at this value\n...\nG1 Zx.xx\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Depending on what happens after <code>G1 Zx.xx</code>, you may need to set the head back to the location prior to where it was before <code>G1 X0 Y0 F2000</code>.</p>\n\n<p>Do note that there are pausing scripts/plugins available for e.g. Ultimaker Cura, and there is also a filament changing command <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M600:_Filament_change_pause\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>M600</code></a> that can be enabled for certain firmware (if this is your ultimate goal).</p>\n\n<p>Using a post processing plugin of Ultimaker Cura, a pausing script looks like:</p>\n\n<pre>\n...\nG0 X137.692 Y105\n;TIME_ELAPSED:707.873599\n;TYPE:CUSTOM;added code by post processing\n;script: PauseAtHeight.py\n;current z: 5\n;current height: 5.0\nM83\nG1 F300 Z6\nG1 F9000 X190 Y190\nG1 F300 Z15\nM104 S0; standby temperature\nM0;Do the actual pause\nM109 S200; resume temperature\nG1 F300 Z6\nG1 F9000 X133.423 Y105\nG1 F9000\nM82\nG92 E911.50045\n;LAYER:24\nG0 X137.692 Y105 Z5\n...\n</pre>\n\n<p>Note that <code>G0</code> and <code>G1</code> are <em>\"move to\"</em> location instructions (albeit through a different way, fast move and linear move respectively). If you look closely, you see that after the pause, the printer returns to the X-Y position where it left prior to the pause (<code>X137.692 Y105</code>).</p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p><em>Side note:<br>\nSome firmware flavors allow <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Buffering\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">buffering</a>, but each statement is executed sequentially.</em></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7417", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12999/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7456, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Basically, the <a href=\"/a/5606/5740\">answer</a> on your <a href=\"/questions/5604/how-to-re-program-prusa-firmware-to-accept-a-taller-z-axis\">previous question</a> is still valid, but your specific questions will be addressed below.</p>\n\n<h2>To answer where the setting has gone by answering:</h2>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>However, the layout is different for the new firmware v. 3.4.1, and <strong>I\n have no idea where the Z axis settings have gone</strong>, if they are even\n still there. <strong>Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the Z\n MAX POS settings, please?</strong></p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>To find where the setting is, you need to go to the source code repository of Prusa firmware (which is based on Marlin firmware) or <a href=\"https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/archive/v3.4.1.zip\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">download the zip file with the sources</a> and use a \"grep\" search utility to search in files. </p>\n\n<p>The setting <code>Z_MAX_POS</code> is located in the board configuration file (so in <code>1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full.h</code> if you have the MK3). This can be found in the online sources (the github page). The online repository is located <a href=\"https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">here</a>. Using the search functionality to search within the source code files on that page you are able to find any setting you need to find. If you type in <a href=\"https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/search?utf8=%E2%9C%93&amp;q=Z_MAX_POS&amp;type=\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">\"Z_MAX_POS\"</a> and scroll down till you see</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define Z_MAX_POS 210\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>You have found what you where looking for if you located the <a href=\"https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/3d97d81734e18214afa712cac5066e168016f709/Firmware/variants/1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">MK3 board</a>.</p>\n\n<h2>To solve your problem by answering:</h2>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>How to re-program NEW Prusa MK3 MMU2 to accept taller Z axis?</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>Prusa development team has got rid of <code>Configuration_prusa.h</code>, <strong><em>you will not find this file in the repository anymore</em></strong>! </p>\n\n<p>Instead, it is <strong>you</strong> that has to <strong>rename one of the board variant files</strong> (from the <a href=\"https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/tree/MK3/Firmware/variants\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">\"Firmware/variants\"</a> folder) corresponding to the machine you have to \"Configuration_prusa.h\" and place it in the \"Firmware\" folder prior to compiling (note that these are simple actions that you can do on any operating system; i.e. copy file, paste file, rename file). Before you compile the sources, you need to change the value of <code>Z_MAX_POS 210</code> to <code>Z_MAX_POS 350</code>. Please read the <a href=\"https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/f7cd0ffbb0ced452d1d1307af13ba5f9d24d5a05/README.md\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">README file</a> as this describes exactly in more detail than worded above what you need to do (e.g. use the correct Arduino IDE, e.g. 1.6.9 as this is used by Prusa development team themselves).</p>\n\n<p>Quoting from the README file:</p>\n\n<h3>section describing the renaming of the file:</h3>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>in the subdirectory \"Firmware/variants/\" select the configuration file\n (.h) corresponding to your printer model, make copy named\n \"Configuration_prusa.h\" (or make simple renaming) and copy them into\n \"Firmware/\" directory</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<h3>section describing the compiling:</h3>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>run \"Arduino IDE\"; select the file \"Firmware.ino\" from the\n subdirectory \"Firmware/\" at the location, where you placed the source\n codes File->Open make the desired code customizations; all changes are\n on your own risk!</p>\n \n <p>select the target board \"RAMBo\" Tools->Board->RAMBo note: it is not\n possible to use any of the variants \"Arduino Mega …\", even though it\n is the same MCU</p>\n \n <p>run the compilation Sketch->Verify/Compile</p>\n \n <p>upload the result code into the connected printer Sketch->Upload</p>\n \n <p>or you can also save the output code to the file (in so called\n HEX-format) \"Firmware.ino.rambo.hex\": Sketch->ExportCompiledBinary and\n then upload it to the printer using the program \"FirmwareUpdater\"\n note: this file is created in the directory \"Firmware/\"</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<hr>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>To compile the sources correctly please take care in using the correct\n software versions and libraries (Arduino IDE 1.6.9, RepRap\n Arduino-compatible Mother Board RAMBo by Ultimachine v. 1.0.1, Arduino\n AVR Boards Built-in by Arduino updated to v.1.6.23)</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<hr>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p><em>Sidenote:</em></p>\n\n<p>A little more in depth for those who are interested to know (and have some programming skills) why you need to change the name of one of the variants configuration files. Basically, Prusa uses different boards with different settings for the different printers they sell. All the settings for these printer variations are stored in the <code>Firmware/variants</code> folder. When you rename the variant file and put it a folder layer higher to <code>Configuration_prusa.h (e.g.</code>Firmware/variants/1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full.h<code>to</code>Firmware/Configuration_prusa.h<code>)</code>, these specific printer and board settings are included into the <code>Configuration.h</code> file (<a href=\"https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/Configuration.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">line 43 to be precise</a>) by the C-code include statement:</p>\n\n<pre><code>#include \"Configuration_prusa.h\"\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>This include statement will basically insert (like copy in memory) the statements from the <code>Configuration_prusa.h</code> file and thus set important constants like:</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_EINSY_1_0a\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>and many more.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7487, "author": "Kryss", "author_id": 10141, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10141", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Latest firmware: Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\\Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\nArduino 1.6.9, RepRap Arduino-compatible Mother Board RAMBo by Ultimachine latest version 1.0.1, Arduino AVR Boards Built-in by Arduino latest version v.1.6.23.</p>\n\n<p>Copy the 1_75mm_MK3-EINSy10a-E3Dv6full file from\nPrusa-Firmware-3.5.0\\Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\\Firmware\\variants into \nPrusa-Firmware-3.5.0\\Prusa-Firmware-3.5.0\\Firmware and rename it Configuration_prusa.h.<br>\nOpen Firmware Arduino file. Configuration_prusa.h shows in the tabs next to Configuration_adv.h. Change //Travel limits after homing #define Z_MAX_POS from 210 to 350. Verify → \nSketch uses 225,482 bytes (87%) of program storage space. Maximum is 258,048 bytes.\nGlobal variables use 6,091 bytes of dynamic memory.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7455", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10141/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7485, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This effect is called oozing. At the end of heating up the hot end, left filament becomes so liquid that it oozes out of the nozzle. This left filament could be a left over from the previous print where an insufficient retract prior to the last print finish causes this (you could retract the filament a little further in your \"end G-code\" script, first reset the E to zero <code>G92 E0</code> and then retract <code>G1 E-3 F1500</code>, be sure that the priming length in your \"start G-code\" takes care of this distance).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7489, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<h1>basics first</h1>\n\n<p>The viscosity of plastic is temperature dependent: the warmer it is, the lower it gets and thus the more \"runny\". The lower the viscosity is, the less force is needed to move it.</p>\n\n<p>In printing, a pressure is applied to the filament from the extruder. Pressure is the force by area, thus for our look pretty much the same: the extruder exerts a force on the filament, to overcome the viscosity keeping it in the nozzle.</p>\n\n<p>A secondary effect is, that heated material expands, depending on what kind of material is in the nozzle.</p>\n\n<h1>what happens</h1>\n\n<p>The whole problem starts with shutting off the printer after the print: as the filament cools it shrinks. As the motors are turned off, the solidifying and shrinking plastic pulls at the filament. The filament can change its location or be pulled a little through the extruder, keeping the space quite well filled without cavities. Bowden style can change the mere filament path a little to compensate some of the shrinkings by shifting its path from hugging the outer wall to doing the same on the inner wall.</p>\n\n<p>As you start to heat up the printer, there is no force applied on the filament from the extruder to push it out of the nozzle. But when you shut it down, there was some filament in the nozzle.</p>\n\n<p>The filament melts and its viscosity drops, but at the same time, it expands. The extruder does not yet apply force, but as the material expands, it pushes against the filament stuck above it. Newton's 3rd law is the iconic <em>Actioni contrariam semper et æqualem esse reactionem</em> or as we know it short: <em>Actio = Reactio</em>, the force you exert in one direction equals a force applied in the reverse direction. Thus, the expanding filament pressing back against the extruder <em>also</em> exerts a force against itself down against the nozzle. The same is true for the nozzle, but the nozzle has one difference: it has a hole, where the forces are bundled to force filament out.</p>\n\n<p>At some point, the force from the expanding filament is big enough to overcome the viscosity keeping the filament in the nozzle and it oozes out.</p>\n\n<h1>fixes</h1>\n\n<p>There are several ways to fix this in slicing, but I prefer the end-code method.</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Modify your <strong>end code</strong> to provide space in the nozzle while it is still hot. Simply add <code>G1 E-3 F1800</code> to retract quickly at the end of print. F1800 is rather fast.</li>\n<li>Modify your <strong>start code</strong> could help in preventing very runny filaments from oozing, but you usually need to zero the extruder first with <code>G92 E0</code> and you <em>might</em> also need to allow negative values with <code>G1 S1</code>. This isn't usable in all firmware versions, but one can use <code>G92 E3</code> to set it to 3, then extrude, then 0.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<h2>Example End Code</h2>\n\n<p>Watch line 2. This is what prevents my Ender 3 from oozing in the first place</p>\n\n<pre><code>G91 ;relative position set\nG1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract 3 mm to prevent oozing on startup\nG1 F3000 Z10 ; Move up 10 mm to clear the print\nG90 ;absolute position set\nG28 X0 Y0 ; home x and y axis to clear the print\nM106 S0 ; turn off part cooling fan\nM104 S0 ; turn off extruder\nM140 S0 ; turn off bed\nM84 ; disable motors\n</code></pre>\n\n<h2>Example Start Code addition</h2>\n\n<p>This is just a snippet that forces retraction at the start, once the filament is hot. it <em>WILL</em> though make the first three millimeters of push come empty, thus should be combined with a cleaning that uses more than this - check out <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6355/writing-g-code-swiping-at-start-of-print?s=1|65.5276\">Writing G-code : swiping at start of print</a> for better nozzle priming.</p>\n\n<pre><code>G92 E3\nG1 E-3 F1000\nG92 E0\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7484", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13327/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7511, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Since you retracted the filament (very far), but stay at elevated temperature for almost 2 minutes, this must be left-over residue inside the nozzle/throat that is stuck to the wall that becomes liquid and oozes out of the nozzle because gravity pulls it downwards.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7489/5740\">This answer</a> on the question <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7484/ender-3-extrudes-plastic-whilst-at-standstill-and-while-moving-to-start-of-prin\">\"Ender 3 extrudes plastic whilst at standstill, and while moving to start of print\"</a> explains the oozing problem in detail. </p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7513, "author": "user77232", "author_id": 12857, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Ooze is virtually unstoppable. This becomes apparent once you understand why an nozzle oozes. As the filament melts, its viscosity drops and the free flowing filament slowly makes it way out of the nozzle due to the action of gravity (and sometimes thermal expansion). If you make the throat air tight then you can use air pressure to keep the plastic from oozing out. Further you would have to immediately turn off the heat to the nozzle and cool the nozzle as fast as possible (possibly with a blower). Even if you retract the filament all the way out of the throat, there could still be some plastic left inside that will ooze out. </p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7514, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You retract the filament, yet you keep the heater on while the dwell. As you pull the filament back, you pull only the non-molten filament. The retaining molten filament follows gravity and sags down.</p>\n\n<p>It is fixable to some degree though: Turn off the heat to let the filament cool before having the machine hibernate. That can reduce the amount of oozing, but not fully.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7509", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12999/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7529, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Obviously, your extrusion process is troubled by a lot of pressure. This can be seen from the extensive experiment you conducted with PLA extrusion at different temperatures. Please do note that 230 &deg;C is considered pretty high for PLA! Usually it should be in the range of <a href=\"https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/3d-printing-basics-how-to-get-the-best-results-with-pla-filament\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">185 - 205 &deg;C</a>:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>In general, PLA filament settings have an optimal printing PLA\n temperature range from about 185C to about 205C. If you’re using\n 1.75mm as opposed to thicker 2.85mm (or 3.00mm) your optimal print will be closer to the lower end of this PLA filament temperature\n range.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>The temperature dependency of filament diameter is explained that small diameter filament warms up way faster in the heating zone of the hotend than large diameter filament as the heat travels less far to the filament core. Basically, with 1.75 mm filament you should be able to print at 195 &deg;C. The pressure that the filament exerts on the hotend and extruder is clearly too much and leads to skipped steps.</p>\n\n<p>It is <strong><em>strongly discouraged</em></strong> to create a function of steps per millimeter (or an over-extrusion by specifying a more than 100% flow modifier). This is a mechanical issue that needs to be fixed by addressing the hardware problem. Usually this is done by:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>fixing the extruder; \n\n<ul>\n<li>is it skipping steps? </li>\n<li>does the filament tension get too high that it skips back pass the extruder gear?</li>\n<li>does increase the stepper current work?</li>\n</ul></li>\n<li>fixing the Bowden tube;\n\n<ul>\n<li>is it clean?</li>\n<li>is there too much friction?</li>\n<li>are there kinks?</li>\n</ul></li>\n<li>fixing the hotend;\n\n<ul>\n<li>is the temperature that is reported the correct one? (thermistor problem?)</li>\n<li>is the heat conducting properly to the nozzle?</li>\n<li>is there a tolerance issue in the hotend/heatbreak?</li>\n<li>is the coldend properly cooled?</li>\n</ul></li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>A few of these you already explored, others you have not. Unfortunately, you have to do a little more troubleshooting the get to the bottom of the actual problem that is causing this pressure preventing the extruder to extrude the proper commanded length.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7611, "author": "Joshua F", "author_id": 13625, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13625", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>So I feel that I solved the problem thanks to a few sources. Thanks to 0scar for his quick response and help.</p>\n\n<p>The problem was two fold. Mechanical problem causing blockage and slicer setting causing ripple.</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>The PTFE tube wasn't pushed all the way in as far as it could go causing too much pressure in the hotend. This seems to be a really common problem with stock Ender 3's Because of the gap the hotend needed to heat up into the heat break to melt the lump in the gap between the hot end and the PTFE tube. </li>\n<li>The slicing settings in cura had combing enabled. I set it to not comb on skin but what it was doing is combing just behind the skin and as a result would leak out filament in little blobs that when it printed the outer layer would be pushed out causing a ripple effect. This caused under extrusion once it finished the move because there wasnt enough filament left in the end.</li>\n</ol>\n\n<p>After I fixed these two things I was printing at 190c with no under extrusion, motor slipping, very little stringing and printing much better.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7527", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13625/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7616, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<h1>1 PID Tune</h1>\n<p>Changing the thermosensor or the heater cartridge is a big change in the system: each of these items has internal errors differing them from each other item. If your thermosensor has a different standard resistance by a small way than the one before, if the resistance of the cartridge is different, then the chip gets readings it does not expect. This is why a change of either of these components (or to a different heater block size/material for the matter) one should run a PID tune, teaching the chip how the new sensor/cartridge behave.</p>\n<p>To do this, connect to your Printer via an USB Cable and run a software that can send raw gcode. I prefer Repetier Host, but other software also works. I like to follow the instructions of the <a href=\"https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en#s87\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">e3D v6 assembly manual</a>, but the video by <a href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APzJfYAgFkQ\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Tom (Thomas Sanladererer)</a> and the <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">RepRap Wiki</a> have excellent explanations too.</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Send <code>M303 E0 S200 C8</code></li>\n<li>wait for finishing</li>\n<li>send <code>M301</code> with the values you just got returned. One example might read <code>M301 P17.28 I0.63 D118.87</code></li>\n<li>sent <code>M500</code> to update your EEPROM</li>\n</ul>\n<hr />\n<p>If this doesn't help, we might have a bigger problem, so let's go troubleshooting! Hardware first, then Firmware.</p>\n<p>A few useful hints that Thomas Sanladerer found <a href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckQ9UWlmdVA\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">when he was checking his printers for fire hazards</a>:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>A shorted out thermosensor (closed loop, 0-Resistance) triggers Maxtemp</li>\n<li>A burnt out thermosensor (open loop) triggers Mintemp</li>\n<li>A non-connected or burnt out (open loop) Cartridge triggers thermal runaway, as does any other error with the cartridge that leads to abnormal heating.</li>\n</ul>\n<h1>2 Check the Hardware</h1>\n<p>Hardware can fail, we all know that. But luckily there are only 5 items involved that could fail:</p>\n<h2>2.1 Check all connections</h2>\n<p>If the heater cartridge is not connected properly, that will result in a Thermal Runaway Error, as the thermosensor does not detect any change.</p>\n<p>A non connected thermosensor will trigger a mintemp error, a shorted thermosensor will trigger maxtemp error.</p>\n<h2>2.2 Check the resistance of the heater cartridge</h2>\n<p>A broken heater cartridge can have two results: either it conducts no electricity at all (for example if a lead is broken), or it acts as a jumper and has no resistance at all. To check this, use a multimeter and measure the resistance in Ohm by connecting it to the leads of the cartridge while it is dismounted. A broken circuit in the cartridge triggers Thermal Runaway, a shorted out cartridge can break the board in worst case. <a href=\"https://imgur.com/a/o4CXxCT\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">A pictoral guide for analogue Multimeters.</a></p>\n<p>My e3D light6 in my 12 V TronXY has a resistance of about 5.2 Ω. The Value you will get depends on what kind of heater cartridge you use. For reference: e3D Heater Cartridges are <a href=\"https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=en#s87\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">documented</a> to be around 4.8 Ω for 12 V &amp; 30 W, 3.6 Ω for 12 V &amp; 40 W, 19.2 Ω for 24 V 30 W and 14.4 Ω for 24 V 40 W.</p>\n<p>If your Value is given as infinite or near 0 Ω, your heater cartridge is broken - Though having 3 defect heater cartridges seems unlikely on first glance, unless something shortens their lifespan considerably.</p>\n<h2>2.3 Check your supply voltage</h2>\n<p>Now comes a thing that can be <strong>dangerous</strong> for you will measure a live circuit. Be aware that you are working with <strong>live current</strong> when you do this. Do <strong>NOT</strong> bring your fingers into contact with unshielded wires!</p>\n<p>Set your Multimeter to check the Voltage. Connect the test probes to the output of the power supply that runs into the board. Power up the voltage supply. It should read close to 12 or 24V, depending on your machine.</p>\n<h2>2.4 Check the voltage given by the board</h2>\n<p>Again, this is measuring <strong>live current</strong> and can be <strong>dangerous</strong>. Use maximum care not to fry yourself!</p>\n<p>If your Power supply is working, then it might be the board that is not allowing the current to get the heater cartridge. So we need to measure if it gets power. Since I=U/R, and we have established that R is not 0 or infinity (see above), we can establish if there is I by simply measuring U, which is the voltage.</p>\n<p>Mount the tips of your multimeter into the clamps that should take the leads for the heater cartridge and set it to measure the Voltage. Make sure they have contact. Connect the machine to power and start it up. Order it to heat up the cartridge. It should show a voltage that is similar to your supply voltage (12/24V).</p>\n<h2>2.5 Thermosensor</h2>\n<p>The Thermosensor <em>might</em> trigger an error if it is faulty but not entirely broken. A broken thermosensor should trigger <code>MINTEMP</code> for a broken open and <code>MAXTEMP</code> for a shorted out sensor. The only way to test this would be to measure it against items of known temperature, for example using the bed sensor as Benchmark.</p>\n<h1>3 Check the Firmware</h1>\n<h2>3.1 Thermosensor settings</h2>\n<p>In some cases, the temperature tables of the thermosensors are not compatible and one has to change the settings for that in the firmware. One of the best rundowns I know is in the e3D <a href=\"https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Lite6+Marlin+Configuration/27?lang=en\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">light6</a>/<a href=\"https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Marlin+Configuration/5?lang=en\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">v6</a> firmware manual, if you need more help than this.</p>\n<p>In the Marlin 1.9 you do this in <code>Configuation.h</code>, under the header Thermal Settings. In my Ender 3 this is done in line 289:</p>\n<pre><code>#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5\n</code></pre>\n<p>That means, that my temperature sensor 0 (the one in the hotend) is of type 5, where type 5 is defined in the block above. The relevant line 256 of my file reads:</p>\n<pre><code> * 5 : 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan &amp; J-Head) (4.7k pullup)\n</code></pre>\n<p>The most common choice in Chinese hotends to use this very 4.7-kiloohm pullup thermistor table, and the actual specific table for most of these is reasonably close to the 5. Other thermosensors can be reasonably overlapping, but in case you change the style of thermosensor, it is generally advised to change this value accordingly¹. <strong>Always</strong> run a PID tuning after changing the thermosensor table!</p>\n<h2>3.2 Thermal Runaway Protection</h2>\n<p>The settings for the Thermal Runaway Protection might be worth a look. Maybe it is a little trigger happy? <code>Configuration_adv.h</code> contains a block titled Thermal Settings, containing when to trigger the emergency shutdown. For my Ender3 it reads like this:</p>\n<pre><code>#if ENABLED(THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS)\n #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 40 // Seconds\n #define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // Degrees Celsius\n</code></pre>\n<p>From your error log, I guess that your printer has the second line as 30 seconds. It would be technically safe to increase this time to up to 120 seconds, but I strongly suggest not to go over 60 seconds.</p>\n<p>^{1 - I had switched the whole hotend on my TronXY X1 for an e3D light6, and it only needed a PID tune, but in <em>theory</em> I should have also swapped the Firmware to reflect that - but, as said, luckily many Chinese printers use the table 5 even if they are not using the sensor. Table 5 was <em>made</em> for the thermosensors used by e3D.}</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7681, "author": "Valmond", "author_id": 8328, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8328", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>@Trish gives a lot of good info, but:</p>\n\n<p><strong>I don't think your heating element is the problem, I think the thermistor is, or a flaky connection between it and your board.</strong></p>\n\n<p>The termistor senses the temperature of your heater (you also have one on a heat bed), and tells the electronics when to heat, and when it's hot enough. Now imagine if the sensor is broken or the cable gets loose: the electronics will think it's too cold and just heat forever.</p>\n\n<p>This causes a fire hasard, so most electronics doesn't let the heater go full out for too long time, and ends it all with a \"Thermal Runaway\" if it happens.</p>\n\n<p>So check that your temp is read correctly, even when you move the cables, and if that isn't it, buy a pack of thermistors (or what's compatible with your printer).</p>\n\n<p>Good luck!</p>\n\n<p>Source: been there done that :-)</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14197, "author": "Jessie", "author_id": 23158, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23158", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Check the wires going into the board for the heater core. That was the problem with mine. They didn't remove enough of the insulation for the wires to get current.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 19449, "author": "hellork", "author_id": 31400, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31400", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I had this problem of &quot;Thermal Runaway E1&quot; always at the same layer each time, when printing TPU. TPU prints at a higher temperature than usual PLA printing. I was printing it at 245 °C. (I also tried 230 and 250 °C). It turned out to be the part-cooling fan was coming on at 91 % on that layer. Which was cooling the nozzle more than the PID tuning was used to. (I had changed the nozzle for a different type and the cooling duct was blowing directly on it.) Reducing the fan speed during the slicing step printed the project just fine. A better fix in this case will be printing a new cooling duct and installing a silicone sock to help retain that nozzle heat (and yet another PID tune once that's done).</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7610", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13208/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7670, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<h1>Software</h1>\n<p>You might want to look at your firmware. When running a PID tune, the firmware decides on a smoothing.</p>\n<p>in Marlin, <code>configuration.h</code> contains a line that determines how much the machine shall try to work out the curves. For my ender 3 it reads:</p>\n<pre><code>#define PID_K1 0.95 // Smoothing factor within the PID\n</code></pre>\n<p>Playing with the value carefully might result in better calibration.</p>\n<h1>Hardware</h1>\n<p>A different trick to <em>widen</em> the waves might come from adjusting the physical properties of the printer:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Make sure that no draft from the cool end fans runs over the heater block. If it does, a shroud or a little tinfoil can help to dampen the changes.</li>\n<li>e3D uses a silicon sock to isolate their heater blocks and prevent air drafting over them.</li>\n</ul>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7673, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>If you are sure that PID is enabled (and not using bang-bang heating, as this gives a very similar heating profile) and did not fix the fluctuations, the best guess for this phenomenon is that the printer board has incorrect capacitors installed on the printer board. This is not very uncommon and can be found on the internet. You should at least show the graph to the vendor and ask for support.</p>\n\n<p>If incorrect or faulty capacitors are the cause it requires desoldering, and resoldering new ones. If this is out of your comfort zone, it is better to steer your communication with the vendor to replacing the board.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7667", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13832/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7753, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>The answer to your question (baring in mind that the question is raised for Marlin 1.1.9) is the file <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd.cpp\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">ultralcd.cpp</a>. Nowadays, you can also enable extra option through the <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h#L1546\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration_adv.h</a> file, just enable:</p>\n<pre><code>#define CUSTOM_USER_MENUS\n</code></pre>\n<p>and edit the options beneath it to your needs (otherwise it will use the preset values from the <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L1255\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration.h</a> file).</p>\n<hr />\n<p><strong>Add custom items using ultralcd.cpp</strong></p>\n<p>This is how I used to do it if you want to add items to the menu in Marlin Firmware through the ultralcd.cpp. It is best to first look at the current implementation of the menu items. As you already mention <code>Preheat PLA</code>, that would be the first to search for. Searching in files is easy when you go to the github website with the Marlin firmware sources, functionality is available for searching in the files. Alternatively, download a copy of the firmware and use a free &quot;grep&quot; utility to search in files.</p>\n<p>Searching for <code>Preheat PLA</code> will show you a bunch of language translation files. These point to the use of a constant <code>MSG_PREHEAT_1</code> which finds its presence in <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd.cpp\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">ultralcd.cpp</a>. This hints to function <code>lcd_preheat_m1_menu</code> that is called by <code>MENU_ITEM</code> which adds menu items to LCD. You could start there to add your own option.</p>\n<hr />\n<p><strong>Demonstration</strong></p>\n<p>As a quick demonstration, I've added a <code>CUSTOM PREHEAT</code> item by copying the <code>lcd_preheat_m2_menu</code> function in <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd.cpp\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">ultralcd.cpp</a> and renamed this <code>lcd_preheat_m3_menu</code> (a full functional item needs changes within the <code>lcd_preheat_m3_menu</code> as it now uses the constants from the ABS preheat option).</p>\n<p>You then add the item to the menu by changing this part of the code:</p>\n<pre>\n //\n // Preheat for Material 1 and 2\n //\n #if TEMP_SENSOR_1 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_2 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_3 != 0 || TEMP_SENSOR_4 != 0 || HAS_HEATED_BED\n MENU_ITEM(submenu, MSG_PREHEAT_1, lcd_preheat_m1_menu);\n MENU_ITEM(submenu, MSG_PREHEAT_2, lcd_preheat_m2_menu);\n // ADD THIS LINE:\n MENU_ITEM(submenu, \"CUSTOM PREHEAT\", lcd_preheat_m3_menu);\n #else\n MENU_ITEM(function, MSG_PREHEAT_1, lcd_preheat_m1_e0_only);\n MENU_ITEM(function, MSG_PREHEAT_2, lcd_preheat_m2_e0_only);\n #endif\n</pre>\n<p>After compiling and uploading to the printer board, enter the <code>Prepare</code> menu and scroll down to see:</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5eUD.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5eUD.jpg\" alt=\"LCD showing custom preheat option\" /></a></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11224, "author": "Mark", "author_id": 18911, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18911", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There might be a better solution. </p>\n\n<p>Marlin supports custom user menus, in <code>configuration_adv.h</code>, you probably should try to keep your changes limited to the <code>configuration*.h</code> files. </p>\n\n<p>The menu code is kind of ugly and you can easily break things. </p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11430, "author": "Marcelo Nicolás Obachi", "author_id": 19239, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19239", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>As Mark said, Marlin supports a number of menu items in it's advanced configuration. These items are meant to run custom G-code, which in this case (adding a preheat action with custom target extruder and bed temp) is enough to fill your needs. So, let's see that advanced configuration file: Configuration_adv.h. The section we are looking for is almost at the end of the file, you can ctrl+f for \"CUSTOM_USER_MENUS\" to find it.</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define CUSTOM_USER_MENUS\n#if ENABLED(CUSTOM_USER_MENUS)\n #define USER_SCRIPT_DONE \"M117 User Script Done\"\n #define USER_SCRIPT_AUDIBLE_FEEDBACK\n //#define USER_SCRIPT_RETURN // Return to status screen after a script\n\n #define USER_DESC_1 \"Do the trick\"\n #define USER_GCODE_1 \"G91\\nG0 z5\\nG0 y10\"\n\n #define USER_DESC_2 \"Park\"\n #define USER_GCODE_2 \"G27 P2\"\n\n //#define USER_DESC_2 \"Preheat for PLA\"\n //#define USER_GCODE_2 \"M140 S\" STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED) \"\\nM104 S\" STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND)\n\n //#define USER_DESC_3 \"Preheat for ABS\"\n //#define USER_GCODE_3 \"M140 S\" STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED) \"\\nM104 S\" STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_2_TEMP_HOTEND)\n\n //#define USER_DESC_4 \"Heat Bed/Home/Level\"\n //#define USER_GCODE_4 \"M140 S\" STRINGIFY(PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED) \"\\nG28\\nG29\"\n\n //#define USER_DESC_5 \"Home &amp; Info\"\n //#define USER_GCODE_5 \"G28\\nM503\"\n#endif\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>The source code downloaded from the official repo actually comes with some examples (the ones commented) and I added two more just for fun. \nTo get your custom preheat menu item working you'll make use of the following Gcodes:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>M140: set target bed temperature (visit\n<a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M140.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M140.html</a> for some more data)</li>\n<li>M104: set hot end target temperature (visit\n<a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M104.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M104.html</a> for some more data)</li>\n</ul>\n" }, { "answer_id": 15216, "author": "octopus8", "author_id": 26170, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26170", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The supplement on how to proceed with custom menus in practice:</p>\n<p>Enable (uncomment) this line in <code>configuration_adv.h</code>:</p>\n<pre><code>#define CUSTOM_USER_MENUS \n</code></pre>\n<p>Below there are 5 sample entries, later you can change them or remove/comment out.\nYou can add new, for example:</p>\n<pre><code> #define USER_DESC_6 &quot;Home Z (0.2)&quot;\n #define USER_GCODE_6 &quot;G28 Z\\nG0 Z0.2&quot;\n\n #define USER_DESC_7 &quot;Fan on&quot;\n #define USER_GCODE_7 &quot;M106 S255&quot;\n\n #define USER_DESC_8 &quot;Fan off&quot;\n #define USER_GCODE_8 &quot;M107&quot;\n</code></pre>\n<p>Marlin currently (v2.0.7.2) supports up to 25 menu items (see menu_custom.cpp). There may be gaps in these numbers, so you can comment out some unnecesary options without fixing numbering of others, which could be really convenient.</p>\n<p>Custom commands can be executed in runtime (when already printing). I could use the above &quot;home Z&quot; after manually tuning Z endstop to correct first layer's height quickly, without restarting the print. So you can actually make harm to ongoing print as well.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 19194, "author": "Bruce Falkenstein", "author_id": 33730, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33730", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Preheat Constants - Up to 5 are supported without changing the code just add a new one and then build</p>\n<pre><code>#define PREHEAT_1_LABEL &quot;PLA&quot;\n#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_HOTEND 215\n#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_BED 70\n#define PREHEAT_1_TEMP_CHAMBER 35\n#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255\n\n#define PREHEAT_2_LABEL &quot;PETG&quot;\n#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_HOTEND 235\n#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_BED 70\n#define PREHEAT_2_TEMP_CHAMBER 35\n#define PREHEAT_2_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255\n\n#define PREHEAT_3_LABEL &quot;ABS&quot;\n#define PREHEAT_3_TEMP_HOTEND 270\n#define PREHEAT_3_TEMP_BED 100\n#define PREHEAT_3_TEMP_CHAMBER 35\n#define PREHEAT_3_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255\n\n#define PREHEAT_4_LABEL &quot;NYLON&quot;\n#define PREHEAT_4_TEMP_HOTEND 260\n#define PREHEAT_4_TEMP_BED 65\n#define PREHEAT_4_TEMP_CHAMBER 35\n#define PREHEAT_4_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255\n<span class=\"math-container\">```</span>\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7676", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13829/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7817, "author": "Roberto Lo Giacco", "author_id": 13989, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13989", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The oozing is due to hot-end getting hot before the bed leveling procedure: if you move the hot-end warm up command <strong>after</strong> the <code>G29</code> line you avoid that oozing</p>\n\n<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nM104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature\nM140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature\nG28 ; Home all axes\nG29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature\nG1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\nG1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\nG1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>The above code will activate the heating elements but starts homing and leveling procedure without waiting for the elements to get up to temperature. Only after the bed leveling is finished the printer will pause and wait for the heating elements reach the desired temperature.</p>\n\n<p>This will prevent oozing on a cold start, but you will still be affected if you start a print right after another print, when the hot-end is still close to melting temperature.</p>\n\n<p>If you prefer to avoid that condition you might want to also move the <code>M104</code> and <code>M140</code> commands after the <code>G29</code> bed leveling command.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7833, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I have noticed that leveling with a heated nozzle and bed is different than leveling cold. If you want to level with a hot plate and nozzle, another more simple solution is to retract more filament at the finishing of a print, you could add an increased retraction of filament in the \"end G-code\" script of your slicer.</p>\n\n<p>As an example, an \"end G-code\" script could look like:</p>\n\n<pre>\nM140 S0 ;heated bed heater off\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off\nG92 E0 ; set extruder value back to 0\nG1 E-5 F300 ;retract 5 mm filament speed 300\nG1 X0 Y210 ; park the machine\n</pre>\n\n<p>Be sure to update the \"start G-code\" to counteract this retraction in your additional priming section of the nozzle. </p>\n\n<pre>\n...\n; Prime the nozzle\nG92 E0 ; set extruder value back to 0\nG1 E5 F300 ; extract 5 mm filament at speed 300\n; additionally, extract more at elevated height and wipe the nozzle...\n...\n</pre>\n\n<p>Alternatively, but less accurate (as it does not compensate for layer height) is to have a minimum length of your skirt (this will work if you always use the same first layer height, just calculate how many millimeters you require for the skirt to compensate the retracted volume, you could add some extra distance to the skirt).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11815, "author": "Jason Elmore", "author_id": 19856, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19856", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The best solution would be to heat the bed, but not the nozzle at startup. If you level with a cold bed, your ABL mesh is going to be off, since the aluminum heated bed plate expands considerably once the heat is applied. </p>\n\n<p>You could also issue a retract command before leveling, and then add a counteracting filament feed command after ABL is complete. I have no idea how that code would look though. Just my 2 cents.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7745", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13327/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7817, "author": "Roberto Lo Giacco", "author_id": 13989, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13989", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The oozing is due to hot-end getting hot before the bed leveling procedure: if you move the hot-end warm up command <strong>after</strong> the <code>G29</code> line you avoid that oozing</p>\n\n<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nM104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature\nM140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature\nG28 ; Home all axes\nG29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature\nG1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\nG1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\nG1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>The above code will activate the heating elements but starts homing and leveling procedure without waiting for the elements to get up to temperature. Only after the bed leveling is finished the printer will pause and wait for the heating elements reach the desired temperature.</p>\n\n<p>This will prevent oozing on a cold start, but you will still be affected if you start a print right after another print, when the hot-end is still close to melting temperature.</p>\n\n<p>If you prefer to avoid that condition you might want to also move the <code>M104</code> and <code>M140</code> commands after the <code>G29</code> bed leveling command.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7833, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I have noticed that leveling with a heated nozzle and bed is different than leveling cold. If you want to level with a hot plate and nozzle, another more simple solution is to retract more filament at the finishing of a print, you could add an increased retraction of filament in the \"end G-code\" script of your slicer.</p>\n\n<p>As an example, an \"end G-code\" script could look like:</p>\n\n<pre>\nM140 S0 ;heated bed heater off\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off\nG92 E0 ; set extruder value back to 0\nG1 E-5 F300 ;retract 5 mm filament speed 300\nG1 X0 Y210 ; park the machine\n</pre>\n\n<p>Be sure to update the \"start G-code\" to counteract this retraction in your additional priming section of the nozzle. </p>\n\n<pre>\n...\n; Prime the nozzle\nG92 E0 ; set extruder value back to 0\nG1 E5 F300 ; extract 5 mm filament at speed 300\n; additionally, extract more at elevated height and wipe the nozzle...\n...\n</pre>\n\n<p>Alternatively, but less accurate (as it does not compensate for layer height) is to have a minimum length of your skirt (this will work if you always use the same first layer height, just calculate how many millimeters you require for the skirt to compensate the retracted volume, you could add some extra distance to the skirt).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11815, "author": "Jason Elmore", "author_id": 19856, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19856", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The best solution would be to heat the bed, but not the nozzle at startup. If you level with a cold bed, your ABL mesh is going to be off, since the aluminum heated bed plate expands considerably once the heat is applied. </p>\n\n<p>You could also issue a retract command before leveling, and then add a counteracting filament feed command after ABL is complete. I have no idea how that code would look though. Just my 2 cents.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7746", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13918/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7817, "author": "Roberto Lo Giacco", "author_id": 13989, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13989", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The oozing is due to hot-end getting hot before the bed leveling procedure: if you move the hot-end warm up command <strong>after</strong> the <code>G29</code> line you avoid that oozing</p>\n\n<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nM104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Extruder temperature\nM140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set Heat Bed temperature\nG28 ; Home all axes\nG29 ; BLTOUCH Mesh Generation\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Heat Bed temperature\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; Wait for Extruder temperature\nG1 F1800 E-3 ; Retract filament 3 mm to prevent oozing\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\nG1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position\nG1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line\nG1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little\nG1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\nG1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>The above code will activate the heating elements but starts homing and leveling procedure without waiting for the elements to get up to temperature. Only after the bed leveling is finished the printer will pause and wait for the heating elements reach the desired temperature.</p>\n\n<p>This will prevent oozing on a cold start, but you will still be affected if you start a print right after another print, when the hot-end is still close to melting temperature.</p>\n\n<p>If you prefer to avoid that condition you might want to also move the <code>M104</code> and <code>M140</code> commands after the <code>G29</code> bed leveling command.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7833, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I have noticed that leveling with a heated nozzle and bed is different than leveling cold. If you want to level with a hot plate and nozzle, another more simple solution is to retract more filament at the finishing of a print, you could add an increased retraction of filament in the \"end G-code\" script of your slicer.</p>\n\n<p>As an example, an \"end G-code\" script could look like:</p>\n\n<pre>\nM140 S0 ;heated bed heater off\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off\nG92 E0 ; set extruder value back to 0\nG1 E-5 F300 ;retract 5 mm filament speed 300\nG1 X0 Y210 ; park the machine\n</pre>\n\n<p>Be sure to update the \"start G-code\" to counteract this retraction in your additional priming section of the nozzle. </p>\n\n<pre>\n...\n; Prime the nozzle\nG92 E0 ; set extruder value back to 0\nG1 E5 F300 ; extract 5 mm filament at speed 300\n; additionally, extract more at elevated height and wipe the nozzle...\n...\n</pre>\n\n<p>Alternatively, but less accurate (as it does not compensate for layer height) is to have a minimum length of your skirt (this will work if you always use the same first layer height, just calculate how many millimeters you require for the skirt to compensate the retracted volume, you could add some extra distance to the skirt).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11815, "author": "Jason Elmore", "author_id": 19856, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19856", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The best solution would be to heat the bed, but not the nozzle at startup. If you level with a cold bed, your ABL mesh is going to be off, since the aluminum heated bed plate expands considerably once the heat is applied. </p>\n\n<p>You could also issue a retract command before leveling, and then add a counteracting filament feed command after ABL is complete. I have no idea how that code would look though. Just my 2 cents.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7754", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13813/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7850, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p><em>This answer is now obsolete now that the OP has updated the question with additional information. It is left here as a possible solution for those who have tinkered with there firmware.</em></p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p>Part cooling fan speed during preheat (from menu) is controlled by the setting </p>\n\n<pre><code>#define PREHEAT_1_FAN_SPEED 0 // Value from 0 to 255\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>in <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration.h</a> where a value of <code>0</code> implies no rotation, or 0&nbsp;% and <code>255</code> implies 100&nbsp;%.</p>\n\n<p>If changing this value in your configuration does not result in a reduced fan speed, you could have this constant be defined somewhere else overriding this value.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7851, "author": "cds333", "author_id": 13829, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13829", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Apparently, I forgot a critical step:</p>\n\n<p>While I have completely reconfigured the LCD menus, setup custom 25-point mesh leveling, changed a bunch of other numerical values, and flashed the firmware dozens of times, certain values will never be updated unless you remember to <strong>initialize the EEPROM</strong> after the flash! </p>\n\n<p>Honestly I kinda wish they would make it all or nothing but I guess there is limited space so particular things take priority.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7847", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13829/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7932, "author": "Sava", "author_id": 12917, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12917", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There are several possibilities:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><p>Could be burnt material on the extruder getting dislodged when the head changes orientation on the corners,</p></li>\n<li><p>Could be that the extruder stays a bit too long on the corner,</p></li>\n<li><p>Could be that you have a bit of overextrusion and the material get burned as it stay in contact with the extruder for a bit too long.</p></li>\n</ul>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7933, "author": "Dmitry Kasatsky", "author_id": 14121, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14121", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Looks like overheating and insufficient airflow at the same time.</p>\n\n<p>Try to reduce the temperature of the nozzle by 5-10&nbsp;&deg;C and increase print part cooling.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7934, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>In addition to <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7933/5740\">this answer</a> which addresses <strong><em>what</em></strong> is actually the cause (<em>but doesn't explain where the burnt corners come from</em>), I've added some information <strong><em>why</em></strong> this is showing burnt corners.</p>\n\n<p>You are printing PLA at a too high of a temperature and do not have sufficient print part cooling enabled (either in the slicer or limited by the fan duct design). The <strong><em>higher the temperature the larger the shrinkage</em></strong> of the filament is. When printing overhangs like the slanted models you print, the last deposited layer has less surface contact area with the previous layer and therefore the shrink stresses may overcome the adhering stresses (it is also more easily weakened by the heat input of the last layer). This results in curling up, especially in corners as the heat input comes from two sides. When the corners curl up, the change of hitting the sides of the nozzle increases. When the outside of the nozzle is covered in burnt filament, the curling corners may pick that up. This results as if the corners are actually burnt.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7936, "author": "E Doe", "author_id": 12934, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12934", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There are two problems here. One as was mentioned earlier is that your temperature is too high and the cooling is not sufficient. The fact that one corener is affected more than the other can point to non uniform cooling (try using a cooling shroud like: <a href=\"https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004629\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004629</a> for more uniform cooling)</p>\n\n<p>Another problem could be that your flow multiplier is off, this is often more noticeable in the corners. Try reducing the flow multiplier in your slicer settings.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14920, "author": "Perry Spurway", "author_id": 25540, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25540", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Could be a dirty nozzle and temperature too high. When the head changes direction on the corner, the nozzle wipes off burnt PLA. This might explain why there are no dark marks on the long runs and only the corners.</p>\n<p>Heat nozzle up and clean with acetone and then see if the problem persists.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7931", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10131/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7972, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<h2>Math</h2>\n<p>In math, there is a way how a path is to be followed, and that is usually counterclockwise:</p>\n<p>Assuming a perimeter path of a circle with <span class=\"math-container\">$r=1$</span> around <span class=\"math-container\">$(2,2)$</span>, then the path can be defined as <span class=\"math-container\">$f(p)={{\\cos(p)+2}\\choose{\\sin(p)+2}}$</span> - where <span class=\"math-container\">$p$</span> is the path parameter, in this case an angle of 0 to 360°, and just increasing the angle rotates right hand around. If we had the same path but a different starting point, a shift by <span class=\"math-container\">$\\theta$</span>, then the path would read <span class=\"math-container\">$f(p)={{\\cos(p+\\theta)+2}\\choose{\\sin(p+\\theta)+2}}$</span>. So math is usually <em>counterclockwise</em>.</p>\n<h2>Slicers</h2>\n<p>Every slicer is applying math. As far as I can tell, any Slicer generates a perimeter path, which is always performed in the same way if sliced with the same settings. For one case look at this:\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSlg7.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSlg7.png\" alt=\"5 seconds of print sliced in cura\" /></a>\nCounterclockwise starting from a 7 o clock position in this case. However, other slicers or other objects on the printbed might use other engines, thus doing it not that way. They might go clockwise since solving a path with <span class=\"math-container\">$p=0°\\to360°$</span> and solving it <span class=\"math-container\">$p=360°\\to0°$</span> results in producing the exact same print, just opposed print direction of the perimeter.</p>\n<p>As long as the perimeter of an object is solved as being done as one closed loop, the perimeter will need to have just one, prescribed direction. This direction will be clockwise or counterclockwise depending on how the slicer exactly solves its calculations. Since both directions are equally valid, it is a programmer's decision. A programmer might even prescribe clockwise or counterclockwise solution based on any factor they wanted. They might use layer number (for alternating directions) or a user setting or even an RNG, if they wanted to.</p>\n<p>On the other hand, how the memory is operated and written can also result in the path and the math looking differently. Two examples:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Solving the path correctly counterclockwise and putting the slicing into a FILO memory, resulting in a clockwise operation starting from the last solved point.</li>\n<li>Solving counterclockwise and saving into FIFO, running counterclockwise.</li>\n</ul>\n<h2>Conclusion</h2>\n<p>Slicers for 3D printing have a hard-coded way to choose the direction that is followed when producing G-code. Any and all perimeters will be printed, starting from some arbitrary point, into that direction. In the end, it is a choice of the <em>programmer</em> of the slicing engine that determines if the path is to be run down &quot;forward&quot; or &quot;backward&quot; in mathematical sense.</p>\n<h2>Addendum</h2>\n<p>Slicers are derived from CAM programming. CAM - computer assisted machining - takes into account one more thing when solving the tool path that is not relevant to a 3D printer: The direction of the fluting of the tool. In fact, this one will determine into which direction the path will give a better cut and changing the fluting should swap the path direction to ensure best results.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7983, "author": "Thetravellingfool", "author_id": 1414, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1414", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>While <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7972/8884\">this</a> answer makes a valid attempt at answering the question, it is based on personal experience.</p>\n\n<p>I went to the literature and directly to the source code in Cura to find the answer. In the academic article \"<a href=\"https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00170-012-4706-y\" rel=\"noreferrer\">Identifying the Directions of a Set of 2D Contours for Additive Manufacturing Process Planning</a>\", Volpato et al. describe several methods for identifying the arbitrary directions of each contour in each layer, and additionally identifying which contours were \"internal\" and which were \"external\". I quote from the paper:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>The information regarding contour\n direction, which is either clockwise (CW — internal) or\n counterclockwise (CCW — external), is needed for path\n planning for material processing.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>They go on to explain the importance of identifying which contours are external, and which are internal, such that the path planning algorithm can later determine where infill should be placed. Infill is placed internal to any external contours, and external to any internal contours. </p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>When the normal vectors in STL models\n are assumed to be correct, a simple way to identify whether\n a 2D contour is CW or CCW is to analyze the vector (cross)\n product between a normal vector and a vector obtained from\n two vertices of the facet.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>This assumes the slicer has already determined intersection points between slicing planes and the STL file, and has sorted those intersection points into closed-contours. This initial intersection point gathering and contour construction leads to an arbitrary directionality:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>As any line segment of a contour can be the first in the\n sequence when the segments are connected, its orientation\n will dictate the direction of the contour. Hence, the 2D contours\n formed are classified randomly, and an external contour, for\n example, might be assigned a CW or CCW direction. Therefore, this step is unable to correctly identify the directions of the contours generated.</p>\n \n <p>The ray-tracing method, which is actually based on the\n point-in-polygon test, determines which contours are\n contained by others, and the orientation of each contour is\n then alternated between CCW and CW, the outermost contours being oriented CCW.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>So, the default directionality of a closed contour generated by a slicing program for FDM additive manufacturing turns out to be CCW based on cross products described above (and based on additional methods outlined in the paper). Of course the standard directionality of a PRINTED contour does not HAVE to be this way, it appears to be a standard adopted by the AM community. However, when a model produces contours inside of contours, the arbitrary directionality of those contours is determined, and then alternated from outside to inside, starting with CCW. </p>\n\n<p>As confirmation, according to a simple comment in the CURA source code:</p>\n\n<pre><code>/*!\n * Outer polygons should be counter-clockwise,\n * inner hole polygons should be clockwise.\n * (When negative X is to the left and negative Y is downward.)\n */\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7971", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1414/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7976, "author": "Demis", "author_id": 2383, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2383", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Every time you see a Z movement that matches the layer height (eg. 0.20&nbsp;mm) you can assume that is the end/start of one \"layer\".\nIt should have a line like:</p>\n\n<pre><code>;Layer count: 17\n;LAYER:0. ; mine has this as the first layer\nM107\nG0 F2400 X67.175 Y61.730 Z0.250. ; moves to Z0.250 mm for the first layer, with layer thickness 0.25 mm\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Then later:</p>\n\n<pre><code>;LAYER:1\nM106 S255\nG0 F2400 X78.078 Y69.627 Z0.550 ; 2nd layer.\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>So search for \"Z\" or \"Layer\" and once you've seen 25 of these \"small\" movements (comparing to previous Z movement?), insert your line of code at the end of the layer commands. Don't confuse it with large Z-movements, that may correspond to move up/retract filaments.\nDepending on your goals for the print, maybe you also want to insert a wait time - say a minute or two for the new temp to stabilize? Here is the line for that:</p>\n\n<pre><code>G4 P200 ; Sit still doing nothing for 200 milliseconds.\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 7994, "author": "anaximander", "author_id": 9214, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9214", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Under the Extensions menu in Ultimaker Cura, there's an option to add <a href=\"https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20442-post-processing-plugins\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">post-processing scripts</a>. One of these is called TweakAtZ, and it allows you to override certain print settings when the printer reaches a certain Z height. Multiple overrides can be specified for different heights.</p>\n\n<p>TweakAtZ has been bundled with the standard Ultimaker Cura download for some time, but if your version doesn't have it, you can <a href=\"https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/wiki/Tweak-At-Z-plugin\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">download it from GitHub</a>.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7975", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13712/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 7985, "author": "silver", "author_id": 12950, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12950", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Yes, the limits are often subject to some \"interpretation\" in the limiting algorithms, even if they are totally unchanged values. Eg, your speed may remain higher around corners if the momentum calculations were optimized to take into account print head weight and extrusion instead of only per axis speed curves.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 8532, "author": "Dr. Mantis Tobbogan", "author_id": 14562, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14562", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I agree with @silver, but also wanted to point out that maybe the acceleration values on the old firmware you had were different from the default in TH3D R2.7.</p>\n\n<p>The current settings can be retrieved using the M503 command, which should return the values from the eeprom:</p>\n\n<pre><code>Maximum Acceleration (units/s2):\nM201 X1000 Y1000 Z100 E10000\nAcceleration (units/s2): P R T\nM204 P400.00 R1000.00 T1000.00\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>You can then lookup the default settings for your printer model and use <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M201.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">M201</a> and <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M204.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">M204</a> to set the new values. Then M500 to save the new settings to the EEPROM.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7981", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13883/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8141, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Your print end code should have read something akin to this:</p>\n\n<pre><code>; Filament sy end gcode\nG4 ; wait\nM221 S100\nM106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan\nM104 S0 ; turn off extruder\nM140 S0 ; turn off bed\n\n; End code\nG1 F1800 E-3 ; retract 3 mm\nG1 Z30 ; Move print head up 30mm\nG28 X0 ; home x and y axis\nM84 ; disable motors\nM300 S2600 P100; Beep\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>The problem with your end code is the <code>G90</code> for <strong>absolute</strong> measurements together with the formula <code>G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif}</code> to set the height. The printer itself doesn't calculate anything. That what it doesn't interpret, it ignores, interpreting that whole thing as something crazy like <code>G1 Z30</code> to force the printer to go to Absolute 30 mm above absolute 0. To fix it, your slicer would need to calculate <code>{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}</code> for the printer - which seems to come out to 30mm above the print and then an if-statement that is not started anywhere.</p>\n\n<p>Going up 30 mm can be much easier be done by staying in <code>G91 ; relative measurements</code> and calling <code>G1 Z30</code> to go up another 30 mm, though this might be too high for the printer frame.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 8150, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>You are using <strong>incorrect commands</strong> in your end-code for the <strong>incorrect tool</strong> with respect to the print head raise.</p>\n\n<p>Slic3r has no knowledge of the maximum printer height (as in variable <code>max_print_height</code>) because there is <strong>no input field to specify this</strong>, as can be seen in this partial screenshot:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPz1z.png\" rel=\"noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPz1z.png\" alt=\"Slic3r print area settings\"></a></p>\n\n<p>However, in Slic3r PE (Prusa Edition), there is a possibility to enter such a value, as seen in the following partial screenshot:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCHxV.png\" rel=\"noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCHxV.png\" alt=\"Slic3r PE print volume settings\"></a></p>\n\n<p>Note that in both editions, the <code>Bed shape</code> interface is equivalent when <code>Set...</code> is pressed:\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTLBm.png\" rel=\"noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTLBm.png\" alt=\"Slic3r and Slic3r PE bed area settings\"></a></p>\n\n<p>To use the raising of the head, respecting the maximum print height, in <strong>Slic3r PE</strong>, you need to add the following line:</p>\n\n<pre><code>{if layer_z &lt; max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+60, max_print_height)}{endif}\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>This will parse fine in <strong>Slic3r PE</strong>, but not in <strong>Slic3r</strong> (as <code>max_print_height</code> is not known).</p>\n\n<p>If you want such a command in <strong>Slic3r</strong>, you need to enter (for a printer with a maximum print height of 240&nbsp;mm):</p>\n\n<pre><code>G1 Z{[z_offset]+min([layer_z]+3, 240)}\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>results in Slic3r for a 20x20x20&nbsp;mm calibration cube with a zero <code>z_offset</code> to:</p>\n\n<pre><code>G1 Z23\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11241, "author": "PikesPeakCode", "author_id": 6646, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6646", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The same thing happened to me several years ago. My print was a fairly tall part for my delta printer, about 220 mm. In many previous prints, the print head would always go up after finishing, but what I didn't know was that the Slic3r finish print routine specified an absolute Z height of about 200 mm. When the tall part finished, the still-hot print head moved down and ruined the top of the print. </p>\n\n<p>After figuring out that the routine had an absolute reference, I replaced it with a relative movement 20 mm up. It's worked fine since then. An easy fix.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8139", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14425/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8151, "author": "kintel", "author_id": 6785, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6785", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p><code>rotate()</code> always rotates around the origin of the object following it.\nWhat you can do is to move your cylinder <em>away</em> from the origin, like this:</p>\n\n<pre><code>rotate(a=[90,0,0]) {\n translate([0,10,0]) cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);\n}\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 8152, "author": "Cem Kalyoncu", "author_id": 8651, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8651", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You can use the following module in your code to achieve what you wish:</p>\n\n<pre><code>module myrotate(a, orig) {\n translate(orig)\n rotate(a)\n translate(-orig)\n children();\n}\n\nmyrotate([0,0,90], [0, 10, 0]) {\n cube([10, 10, 25]);\n}\n\nmyrotate([0,0,-90], [0, 10, 0]) {\n cube([10, 10, 25]);\n}\n\ncolor([1, 0, 0])\ncube([10, 10, 25]);\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8149", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13598/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8183, "author": "Lux Claridge", "author_id": 13883, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13883", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Looks like 3dprinterworks.net went down sometime after March 2018 and 3dprinterworks.com went down in January 2019. Luckily the Wayback Machine still has the <a href=\"https://web.archive.org/web/20161209084908/https://www.3dprinterworks.com/products/creatorbot-3d-pro-series-ii\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">machine's specs</a>.</p>\n\n<p>Here is the instructions for entering settings in Slic3r as found <a href=\"https://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/printer-settings\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">here</a> in lieu of importing a profile. (Please note that I have not used Slic3r so the following is solely based on the link)</p>\n\n<p>The key settings under General are </p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Bed size*: X = 305 mm; Y = 305 mm; and Z = 457 mm</li>\n<li>Print center**: X = 152.5 mm; Y = 152.5 mm</li>\n<li>Extruders: 2</li>\n<li>Heated Bed: Checked</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Under Extruder (each extruder should have its own settings so be sure to set up both)</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm</li>\n<li><p>Extruder 2 offset: 30.9 mm (good job, OP on finding the email stating this)</p></li>\n<li><p>Everything from Retraction and on is up to what works best for you</p></li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>There may be a set of setting for acceleration (there is in Ultimaker Cura) which is 3000 mm/s² for most printers, I think. This is the max acceleration, not to be confused with acceleration settings when slicing the model.</p>\n\n<p>The next set of settings, though outside of the Slic3r link, regards the filament. The diameter should be 1.75 mm and the nozzle temperature should be within the range of the filament (e.g. PLA should be set within 180-220 °C) and a heated bed set to 50-60 °C. These parameters are filament dependent and not printer dependent (other than diameter).</p>\n\n<p>That should be the settings that a profile would set for you. Thankfully there's not too many.</p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<pre>*There is a wizard for this section that may make input easier, but here is the build volume. \n**This setting may require whole numbers and may, in fact, not be a necessary setting at all.</pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 13860, "author": "gt24", "author_id": 21542, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21542", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The configuration files were on a flash drive that came with the printer. That being said, here is the file that was located on my flash drive for Slic3r (denoted as deprecated on March 1, 2017).</p>\n\n<p>This is for a Creatorbot Pro II.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://pastebin.com/j1dkSt8f\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">https://pastebin.com/j1dkSt8f</a></p>\n\n<p>Save it as Slic3r_config.ini and import it in to Slic3r.</p>\n\n<p>Good luck!</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8180", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14452/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8185, "author": "Lux Claridge", "author_id": 13883, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13883", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You're correct that the G28 line should be changed. What I would do is the following:</p>\n\n<pre><code>M104 S0 ;extruder heater off \nG91 ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 ;move X to min endstop, so the head is out of the way\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nG1 Y200 ;Move bed forward\nM84 ;steppers off\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>This way your X axis still gets homed after the Z bumps up and before Y moves to present the print.</p>\n\n<p>G28 is the command to home the print head. Your current settings homes the X and Y axes. G1 is a linear movement. One caveat to this change in G-Code is that there needs to be a home command at the start of your prints since you're not homing afterwards anymore. (I believe most slicers default to a G28 at the start AND end of prints so it's not a major concern, but one to be wary of now just in case.)</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 8186, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Note that <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">this reference</a> states that:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>Because the behavior of <code>G28</code> is unspecified, it is recommended <strong>not</strong> to automatically include <code>G28</code> in your <strong>ending GCode</strong>. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use <code>G0</code> or <code>G1</code>.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>So you need to use a <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G0_.26_G1:_Move\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>G0</code> or <code>G1</code></a> move.</p>\n\n<p>When using Ultimaker Cura (like many other slicers), there is built in functionality known as <a href=\"https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1131\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">keywords</a> with a complete list found <a href=\"https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/blob/master/resources/definitions/fdmprinter.def.json\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">here</a>.</p>\n\n<p>The keyword <code>machine_depth</code> is the one that is of use to you, embed this in your end G-code in between curly brackets and it will expand to the bed size of your machine (replacing <code>G28 X0 Y0</code>):</p>\n\n<p><code>G1 X0 Y{machine_depth}</code></p>\n\n<p>For me this compiles to (e.g. for my coreXY printer):</p>\n\n<p><code>G1 X0 Y300</code></p>\n\n<p>To set the speed, just add the following command prior to the one above:</p>\n\n<p><code>G1 F2500</code></p>\n\n<p>Adding this line before the actual move ensures that the speed is constant, if <code>F2500</code> would have been included in the move command (like <code>G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} F2500</code>), this defines the end speed, it would start moving at the last speed value prior to the move.</p>\n\n<p>This results in adding the following lines in your endscript:</p>\n\n<pre>\nG1 F2500\nG1 X0 Y{machine_depth}\n</pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8184", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12562/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8244, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There is nothing wrong with the G-code, <code>M109 S195</code> sets and waits for the temperature to reach the set point. There must be a different reason, other than G-code, why the temperature is not set correctly.</p>\n\n<p>After updating your question by adding another G-code script, the conclusion is that there is nothing wrong with the G-code itself. The problem is that the printer cannot set the 195&nbsp;&deg;C temperature.</p>\n\n<p>Could it be that the minimum temperature is 200&nbsp;&deg;C and that it doesn't set a temperature lower than the minimum value?</p>\n\n<p>If you are comfortable enough to flash a new firmware <strong>(which you should always do with an Anet A8 as it has no <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection\">thermal runaway protection</a>)</strong> you could try to see if this is a firmware problem.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11301, "author": "Kaleb Callahan", "author_id": 19063, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19063", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Double check the physical connection to the heating element and the thermistor that go in the hot end. Those wires and crimps aren't great. I had one fail on me out of the box with my A8. Re-crimping did the trick.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11685, "author": "megamanjay", "author_id": 19667, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19667", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Be sure that you are using the version of Cura (14.07) that comes on the SD card provided with the printer. I ran into this same thing after updating Cura, largely because it prompts you to when it starts. </p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11686, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You don't mention printing via a connected computer over USB, so I assume you're printing from an SD card. I think the most likely cause of your problem is a corrupted filesystem on the SD card, or bad SD card. I've had many occasions where my printer (Ender 3 with Marlin, stock and upgraded to 2.0) fails to see files or correctly read files despite them being readable when the SD card is put in a PC; I suspect the microcontroller library implementations of FAT filesystem reading are less tolerant of errors than real filesystem drivers on Windows, Linux, etc.</p>\n\n<p>Try backing up all the files you care about on the SD card, reformatting it, and repopulting it with known-good files and see if the problem goes away.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14469, "author": "JP Dias", "author_id": 23678, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23678", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>I got the same problem today and after a lot of troubleshooting (following the answers here) I found out that the <strong>issue was the connection to the hotbed</strong>. After I clean out the connection to the hotbed the printer started working as usual. The debugging logic was that <strong>the printer heats up the hotbed <em>before</em> setting the extruder temperature</strong>.</p>\n<p>Looking to your LCD the issue seems to be the same, since 33 degrees is a normal ambient temperature.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8242", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5359/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8267, "author": "Mad Scientist", "author_id": 167, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/167", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>That's the purging that Slic3r PE adds, the broad line of filament at the edge of the sheet. That is outside the official print volume, which triggers this error.</p>\n\n<p>The G-Code generated by Slic3r PE at the start of the file contains the following lines:</p>\n\n<pre><code>G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area\nG92 E0.0\nG1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line\nM73 Q0 S174\nM73 P0 R173\nG1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line\nG92 E0.0\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>You can see that it explicitly goes to -3 on the Y axis, and then extrudes two times on a line along the X axis.</p>\n\n<p>The model size detection is labeled as beta in the settings dialog. It's not very reliable at detecting stuff like this purging line outside the boundaries.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 8276, "author": "anttix", "author_id": 14319, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14319", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p><a href=\"/a/8267\">This answer</a> is correct, it's normal for Prusa printers to purge at -3&nbsp;mm on the Y axis.</p>\n\n<p>This answer is an addition that describes how to get rid of the error.</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>Open Octoprint web UI</li>\n<li>Go to <code>Settings</code> -> <code>Printer Profiles</code></li>\n<li>Find active profile, click on the pen icon next to it (<code>Edit Profile</code>)</li>\n<li>Go to <code>Print bed and build volume</code></li>\n<li>Tick <code>Custom bounding box</code></li>\n<li>Enter -3 to <code>Y Coordinates</code> <code>Min</code> input box</li>\n<li>Hit <code>Confirm</code></li>\n</ol>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8266", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1570/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8362, "author": "aaron elsey", "author_id": 14671, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14671", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This sounds like the firmware setting for your BLtouch is not set up properly. Look at the line in Config H where it deploys the BLtouch. make sure nothing is commented out and that the 2nd deploy is shown. </p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11922, "author": "D DD", "author_id": 19973, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19973", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>First, make sure to check if stow, deploy and the trigger are working correctly.</p>\n\n<p>Second, check the pins files to make sure you put it in the correct pins. Black and White probe pin might need to go to Z-min or probe pin depending on. Make sure to check that.</p>\n\n<p>Third, add \"BLTOUCH delay\". It might be triggering too slow or too fast for the next one to react. So after the first trigger, there should be a time for it to \"re-setup\" for the second. But if there is no time to do that then it won't trigger. </p>\n\n<p>To add examples: If you have SKR 1.4 Turbo, then use BLTouch probe pins (black and white) on the board. IT will NOT recognize. You have to use Z-min endstop pins. Reason for this?:</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>If this has been used, Z-min probe will use Z-min endstop pin instead of Z-min probe.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14720, "author": "Marcos Moura", "author_id": 25175, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25175", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>In case someone still has this problem I have a solution for what happened in my case.</p>\n<p>I am using a 3DTouch and I also encountered the same problem and it was solved by commenting <code>//#define BLTOUCH_HS_MODE</code></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 18598, "author": "Nela Aguilar", "author_id": 32366, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32366", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I solved the same issue.</p>\n<p>I had the same problem, just send the G-code <code>M502</code> to your printer through Cura or whatever it is you use. The reason is that you already did an auto bed leveling and you more than likely send the G-code <code>M500</code> which saves your auto mesh data so that you don't have to auto home for every print.</p>\n<p>So <a href=\"/q/11483\"><code>M502</code> restores everything to its factory settings</a> after you reset don't forget to send <code>M500</code> to save the default settings or else your printer will be fixed up until the next time you turn it on and you'll have to start all over again hope this helps.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8271", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14383/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8302, "author": "Bouc", "author_id": 14584, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14584", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You can specify variable values from command line using:</p>\n\n<pre>\nopenscad ...\\\n ... \\\n [ -D var=val [..] ] \\\n ... \\\n ... \\\n filename\n</pre>\n\n<p>See the <a href=\"https://en.m.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_OpenSCAD_in_a_command_line_environment\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">OpenSCAD Manual</a>.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 8484, "author": "Hermann Gebhard", "author_id": 10070, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10070", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>I could finally solve the issue. Calling <code>openscad</code> from command line with parameters does NOT work with the AppImage I used. It works fine with a \"standard\" installation, though.</p>\n\n<p>Thanks for your support.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8301", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10070/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8336, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<h3>Avoid naming <code>.gcode</code> files with non-ASCII characters</h3>\n<em>(this includes <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_ASCII\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">EASCII</a>)</em>\n<p>I know of no firmware on a printer that can handle files that have characters not present in the set of 95 non-control <a href=\"https://www.w3schools.com/charsets/ref_html_ascii.asp\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">American Standard Code for Information Interchange characters</a> by default. Marlin, for example, can't process the characters <code>ä</code> <code>ö</code> <code>ü</code> &amp; <code>€</code> as these all are missing in the ASCII.</p>\n<h3>Avoid having more than one <code>.</code></h3>\n<p>Nowadays the <code>.</code> is no longer a fully reserved character in file names, so a file can be named <code>0.5mm Gauge Block.stl</code> on Windows without problems.</p>\n<p>Ultimaker Cura will <strong>cut</strong> the name at the <code>.</code> before the extension when generating the <code>.gcode</code>. This is mainly done to prevent tons of errors that could crop up in firmware that might not be able to deal with it. Remember that this behavior can lead to overwriting files - our <code>0.5mm Gauge Block.stl</code> would generate <code>0.gcode</code>, as would <code>0.1.5 Penholder.stl</code> (that follows a version naming convention).</p>\n<h3>Avoid reserved characters</h3>\n<p>Also note that some characters are reserved in file naming and will lead to other errors (mainly when trying to create the files in the first place), including, but not limited to, <code>/</code> <code>\\</code> <code>:</code> <code>?</code> <code>*</code>.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 8337, "author": "Horitsu", "author_id": 9575, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9575", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Special characters like <code>Ä</code> <code>Ö</code> or <code>Ü</code> in the stl-filename resulted in Ultimaker Cura creating a comment of the filename in the g-code that read like </p>\n\n<pre><code>;MESH:Loki_hörner_v2.stl\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>This apparently could not be parsed by the Anet A8, leading to an error and halt.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8334", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9575/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8467, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 5, "selected": true, "text": "<h1>What is TRP and how does it work?</h1>\n\n<p>Thermal runaway protection is basically self-explaining; it is protection against the temperature getting out of control. Essentially, the firmware checks whether the measured output of the thermistor (<em>What is a thermistor? A thermistor is basically a temperature sensor; it is an electrical component (more specific: a resistor) that has a large reduction of its resistance when heated; it is frequently used for measurement and control as you can link the resistance to the temperature via a table or a curve</em>) is within an expected range for a certain target value within a certain time frame when heating the hotend or the heated bed.</p>\n\n<p>E.g. When you request the hotend or heated bed to a certain temperature, the heater elements are being scheduled/switched on to increase the temperature. If the temperature increase as a result of scheduling the hotend or heated bed are not met in time (settings in the firmware configuration), the printer will halt and heating of the heater elements will stop. The printer needs to be reset after such a failure.</p>\n\n<h2>What triggers TRP?</h2>\n\n<p>Common problems that trigger the thermal runaway protection are:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>a faulty thermistor,</li>\n<li>an incorrectly placed thermistor (e.g. not making good enough contact with the heater block),\n\n<ul>\n<li>including falling out</li>\n</ul></li>\n<li>a loose heater cartridge,\n\n<ul>\n<li>including falling out</li>\n</ul></li>\n<li>faulty connectors,</li>\n<li>faulty or partially broken wires,</li>\n<li>basically, anything that interrupts either heating or the measurement of the signal.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<h2>Why should TRP be active?</h2>\n\n<p>Thermal runaway protection is mainly meant to prevent fire hazards by stopping the heater cartridge when it might have fallen out of the heater block and is trying to set the whole surroundings on fire. </p>\n\n<p>To illustrate the point: This happens if Thermal Runaway Protection is disabled, and the <a href=\"https://www.thissmarthouse.net/dont-burn-your-house-down-3d-printing-a-cautionary-tale/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">associated story</a>. Luckily this one did not result in a loss of life and home, but it could have - and the owner was able to do some forensic examination on what caused the fire.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/eJput.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/eJput.png\" alt=\"Anet A8 that has caught fire\"></a></p>\n\n<h2>How to activate TRP in Marlin firmware?</h2>\n\n<p>Please make sure that you have the configuration lines in the Thermal Runaway Protection section (466-485) of your <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration.h</a> file uncommented <em>(no // in front of the lines starting with #define THERMAL_...)</em>.</p>\n\n<pre>\n//===========================================================================\n//======================== Thermal Runaway Protection =======================\n//===========================================================================\n\n/**\n * Thermal Protection provides additional protection to your printer from damage\n * and fire. Marlin always includes safe min and max temperature ranges which\n * protect against a broken or disconnected thermistor wire.\n *\n * The issue: If a thermistor falls out, it will report the much lower\n * temperature of the air in the room, and the the firmware will keep\n * the heater on.\n *\n * If you get \"Thermal Runaway\" or \"Heating failed\" errors the\n * details can be tuned in Configuration_adv.h\n */\n\n#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS // Enable thermal protection for all extruders\n#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed\n</pre>\n\n<p>Note that Marlin 2.x has an additional protection for the heating chamber:</p>\n\n<pre>\n#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_CHAMBER // Enable thermal protection for the heated chamber\n</pre>\n\n<p>This should generally be enough to enable TRP on your printer, fine tuning can be done by changing the time constant and the temperature increase in the file <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration_adv.h</a> in the section:</p>\n\n<pre>\n//===========================================================================\n//=============================Thermal Settings ============================\n//===========================================================================\n</pre>\n\n<p>However, it is advised to not change these values unless you are absolutely certain; e.g. if your heating cartridge is not powerful enough and you are getting printer halts. When getting false-positive printer halts according to the <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Marlin firmware</a> you could:</p>\n\n<pre>* If you get false positives for \"Thermal Runaway\", increase<br>\n* THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD </pre>\n\n<h2>How to test if TRP is active on my printer?</h2>\n\n<p>To test if thermal runaway protection is enabled on your printer, you can disconnect the heater element of the hotend or the heated bed while printing a print or sending temperature commands to the printer over USB using a terminal to send commands directly to the printer. You can disconnect the heater element while the printer is cold (before start) and also when the heater element is heating up. No heating of the nozzle will take place, so after the period defined by the time constant set in the firmware, the printer will halt if thermal runaway protection is enabled. Power down the machine and reconnect the wires, it is not advised to put them back in on a running machine, as one might touch the open wires; when the printer halted, you should power down or reset the printer anyways. If the printer did not halt, power it down as quickly as possible - TRP is disabled.</p>\n\n<h2>Further Considerations</h2>\n\n<p>Besides activating thermal runaway protection, it is always a good idea to install a smoke detector and a fire extinguisher in the surroundings of the 3D printer: the smoke detector over it, the extinguisher within arms reach of the door leading to the room.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 8468, "author": "user77232", "author_id": 12857, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<h2>What is Thermal Runaway?</h2>\n<p>Let's look at a <a href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVjWg2vuWzk\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Thermal Runaway Test (#2)</a> performed by one Chris Bate.</p>\n<p>In this video the experimenter drove the heating element non-stop until disaster. The Nichrome wire in the heating element melts at about 1,400 °C. Only once it melts, will the circuit will break and the current stop. The aluminum heating block however, melts at 660.3 °C; long before the nichrome melts.</p>\n<h2>Thermal Runaway Protection</h2>\n<p>Thermal runaway protection is a piece of code in the firmware of the printer that checks to make sure that once power is being applied to the heater, the thermistor's resistance is changing within a specified frame (time and amount). This is the basic form of a <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_loop\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">control loop</a>.</p>\n<p>If the control system is implemented mechanically then it is called a <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostat\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">thermostat</a>, usually via a bimetal strip.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 8730, "author": "Mick", "author_id": 3953, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>If the controller is one of Tronxy's new Chitu boards, you will not have the option of recompiling the firmware, since they are locked down. Apart from checking that the PSU is delivering the correct voltage, your only option may be to request a new main board from the vendor.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 8756, "author": "yonutix", "author_id": 15198, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15198", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>It looked like the firmware wasn't flashed correctly in the factory. What I did was to flash a bootloader using an Arduino compatible board and to flash the Marlin software e.g. according to <a href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gwWVFtdg-4\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">videos from this guy</a>.</p>\n\n<p>Next, the menu wasn't displayed correctly so I added, in the <code>Configuration.h</code> the following lines:</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(63)\n#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(100)\n#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(125)\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Now the display is working fine, and the Marlin firmware can be directly flashed from the computer because the bootloader remains there.</p>\n\n<p>I also had a problem with the heating bed which was heating very slow and I had to raise consistently the <code>TEMP_BED_RESIDENCY_TIME</code> and decrease <code>TEMP_BED_HYSTERESIS</code> to 1.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8729", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15198/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 9868, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p><strong><em>Note</strong>: The question has changed after posting this answer. This answer answered the previous question, but is now out-of-date with respect to how the question has changed; I'll update it later, as it is possible what is asked now.</em></p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p>You can change the Z-min and the Z-max pin assignment in Marlin Firmware in the <code>pins_&lt;boardname&gt;.h</code> file, you basically exchange the Z-min and the Z-max. Note that the switch connected to the old Z-min port now becomes a Z-max sensor if you enable that in the firmware; you should therefore remove it (the actual switch) from the minimum Z position.</p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p>To enable a BLTouch sensor you require 2 pins free on the microprocessor. One registers the signal of the trigger, the other triggers the servo to stow/deploy the sensor.</p>\n\n<p>You can connect the white/black to the Z-min signal (Z-min pin) and ground of the Z-min connector (or if pins are swapped in the firmware to the Z-max). The other wires need to be connected to +5&nbsp;V (red), ground (brown) and orange/yellow to a free analog pin (PWM pin):</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p><a href=\"https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/bltouch-auto-bed-leveling-sensor-for-3d-printers#/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">BLTouch can be operated in the following condition.</a><br>\n - One I/O for control (PWM or Software PWM)<br>\n - One I/O for Zmin (Z Probe)<br>\n - GND and +5&nbsp;V power</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>The PWM pin should be defined in your <code>pins_&lt;boardname&gt;.h</code> file, e.g.:</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define SERVO0_PIN 5 // RUMBA board\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>or</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define SERVO0_PIN 27 // ANET board\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>The Z-max signal pin is no PWM pin for the servo.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 9925, "author": "Glen Hoffman", "author_id": 16358, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16358", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>After studying the Marlin code, I found the answer I was looking for.</p>\n<p>If I have a spare PWM pin, I can assign it to anything I want. So the best solution is to define the pin as a <code>Z_MIN_PROBE</code> and then in <code>Configuration.h</code> in the Bltouch settings</p>\n<pre><code>#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP\n</code></pre>\n<p>rather than</p>\n<pre><code>#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_USES\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9867", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16358/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10148, "author": "Nach0z", "author_id": 16621, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16621", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>I had a similar issue when printing with ABS, because my print cooling fan only activated once it got to a certain height above the bed. I'd say you need to do a PID tuning session, insulate the bottom of the bed better, and see if you can make sure your cooling fan doesn't blow air over the bed itself.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 19906, "author": "T0biasCZe", "author_id": 35327, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35327", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>For people from google:\nGo to configuration_adv.h in the marlin firmware source code, and search for &quot;THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS&quot;. Then increase the number. The number is how much degress celsius the temperature can be off before thermal runaway</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9870", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13700/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 9960, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>The problem with the Tevo Tornado design is that the design is as such that the Z-axis is powered by a single stepper (under the assumption that you have not added a second Z stepper).</p>\n\n<p>This means that the level relies on the rigidity of the X-axis assembly, more specific the play on the guide wheels. Apparently the BL-Touch level determination suffers (the up and down movement while probing) from this design as can be seen from the tilt around the Y-axis direction. This effect causing the tilted level plane is called <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hysteresis\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">hysteresis</a>. Now that the Z-axis moves up and down you experience much more problems than using a mechanical switch. The effect is more pronounced when the mass of the hot end carriage is furthest from the Z-axis lead screw.</p>\n\n<p>Note that an extra stepper can also cause tilted level when the second stepper does not move in sync (e.g. missing steps). In such designs, a single stepper (geared) belt driven 2 lead screw has better performance in that respect.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14940, "author": "Infamous Inc", "author_id": 25568, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25568", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I know this is incredibly old at this point, but in case anyone stumbles upon this post like I did, I wanted to point out that there is no semicolon behind your G29 code, so it's not being read properly</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9956", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14300/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10287, "author": "cmm", "author_id": 2082, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This is too long for a good comment but may fall short of being a true answer. If the mods prefer, I can recast it as a set of comments.</p>\n\n<p>There are several differences between using a GPIO pin as a binary data pin and using one as a PWM pin, and the behavior depends on several factors:</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>Is the PWM pin a native PWN pin with hardware support, or is the PWM function being implemented with software?</li>\n<li>Has the PWM pin been initialized as a PWM pin?</li>\n<li>What processor type is used?</li>\n<li>What is the PWM frequency?</li>\n<li>Is the pin a TTL compatible output [0.4 V low, 2.7 V high]? CMOS? What Vcc?</li>\n<li>For that matter, what is the CPU?</li>\n</ol>\n\n<p>As @0scar points out, the fan control pin is typically not connected directly to the fan, but instead uses a FET to provide isolation and switch more current than the output pin can provide. Depending on the circuit, it may be inverting or non-inverting. M42 Pxx S255 may be full on or full off. When the fan is controlled through the fan G-code, the firmware can take possible inversion into account.</p>\n\n<p>You haven't said what the input circuit to the laser involves. </p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>It is active high or active low? </li>\n<li>Does it require a pulse train to keep the output on, or is it\nstatic? I don't know how yours works, but I could imagine designing\na laser module to require a continuous stream of pulses to keep the\nbeam active so that a failure in the drive circuit could not create\na safety hazard.</li>\n<li>Is it a TTL compatible input [0.7 low, 2.4 high]? CMOS? What Vcc?</li>\n<li>Is it something else?</li>\n</ol>\n\n<p>Laser etching is generally on-topic for this group given the close association with 3D printing tech, but people are less familiar with the \"standard systems\". For some of us to be helpful (especially for me to be helpful) we need more of the circuitry and firmware context.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10741, "author": "codeNinja", "author_id": 16492, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16492", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p><code>M42</code> command is an immediate command. This means that it will run before the move GCode commands finish. This is exactly what I was facing. </p>\n\n<p>This video has the walk-through of solving the issue: <div class=\"youtube-embed\"><div>\r\n <iframe width=\"640px\" height=\"395px\" src=\"https://www.youtube.com/embed/LEjgp77TIy4?start=625\"></iframe>\r\n </div></div></p>\n\n<p>Here is the relevant PDF it talks about: <a href=\"https://www.v1engineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/MPCNC-laser-add-on-walk-through-Rev2.0.pdf\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">The 2.8 watt, $100 Laser\nUpgrade for MPCNC</a>.</p>\n\n<p>Here is the relevant section on page 7 of the PDF:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <ol>\n <li><p>The laser driver requires a 5 volt TTL input control signal. The\n Marlin fan control Mcodes (M106 and M107) will be used to\n control the laser .Unfortunately, the Ramps fan output (D9) is a\n 12 volt signal so we can’t use it. We'll need a quick firmware edit\n to remap the fan output from pin D9 (12v) to pin 44(5v).</p></li>\n <li><p>Make a backup copy of your Marlin firmware folder first. Open\n the pins_RAMPS_13.h file in your Marlin firmware folder with a\n text editor (Wordpad). Search for the line where the fan pin is\n assigned and change it from pin 9 to pin 44.</p></li>\n <li><p>Save the changes and flash the revised firmware back onto your\n Mega board. </p></li>\n </ol>\n</blockquote>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10010", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16492/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10261, "author": "cmm", "author_id": 2082, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>I agree with the use of OpenSCAD, but since it is difficult to program in OpenSCAD, I would use <a href=\"https://github.com/SolidCode/SolidPython\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">SolidPython</a>, which is a front end for OpenSCAD with the full programming capability of Python.</p>\n\n<p>In the alternative, you could use any programming language to decode your arrays and generate the OpenSCAD code for the little network of cubes (or voxels).</p>\n\n<p>The final possibility is to generate an STL file directly. I've helped someone do this, but we found the rules to be a little non-intuitive. We used mesh tools to check out results, both by looking for error messages, and by displaying the result to see if it looked as we intended it to look.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 15670, "author": "Konchog", "author_id": 26919, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26919", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Try voxelfuse.</p>\n<pre><code> from voxelfuse.voxel_model import VoxelModel\n from voxelfuse.mesh import Mesh\n from voxelfuse.primitives import generateMaterials\n \n if __name__=='__main__':\n sponge = [\n [\n [1, 1, 1],\n [1, 0, 1],\n [1, 1, 1]\n ],\n [\n [1, 0, 1],\n [0, 0, 0],\n [1, 0, 1]\n ],\n [\n [1, 1, 1],\n [1, 0, 1],\n [1, 1, 1]\n ]\n ]\n\n model = VoxelModel(sponge, generateMaterials(4)) #4 is aluminium.\n mesh = Mesh.fromVoxelModel(model)\n mesh.export('mesh.stl')\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 16436, "author": "ode han", "author_id": 28711, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28711", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You can try <code>mayavi.mlab</code>:</p>\n<h2>Usage</h2>\n<pre><code>from mayavi import mlab\nimport numpy as np\n\n\ndef draw3d_mayavi(array, path):\n mlab.contour3d(array.astype(np.int32)) # a window would pop up\n mlab.savefig(path)\n mlab.clf() # clear the scene to generate a new one\n</code></pre>\n<p>mayavi's recontruction is meant for generating 3D heatmap models of the array, so you have to put in a numeric one with 1s and 0s.</p>\n<h2>Note</h2>\n<p>There are some drawbacks:</p>\n<ol>\n<li><p>A window will pop out, you have to clear it in your code if you want to make multiple models.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>The model reconstructed is .obj and can be very large. If you look closer at the model, you'll see that on the boder the mesh gets 3 layers. I guess the program assumes there to be some gradient.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>The <code>contour3d</code> function can set <code>line_width</code>, but I don't see any sense of using it for binary data.</p>\n</li>\n</ol>\n<p>Yet, mayavi is very quick, at least compared with voxelfuse. Maybe some post-processing is needed to solve the size problem.</p>\n<h2>Doc</h2>\n<p>This function also enables setting color and opacity, etc.\nSee <a href=\"https://docs.enthought.com/mayavi/mayavi/auto/mlab_helper_functions.html#contour3d\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Plotting functions - contour3d</a>:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<h3>contour3d</h3>\n<pre>mayavi.mlab.<b>contour3d</b>(<i>*args, **kwargs</i>)</pre>\n<p>Plots iso-surfaces for a 3D volume of data supplied as arguments.</p>\n<p><strong>Function signatures:</strong></p>\n<p><code>contour3d(scalars, ...) contour3d(x, y, z, scalars, ...)</code>\nscalars is a 3D numpy arrays giving the data on a grid.</p>\n<p>If 4 arrays, (x, y, z, scalars) are passed, the 3 first arrays give\nthe position, and the last the scalar value. The x, y and z arrays are\nthen supposed to have been generated by <em>numpy.mgrid</em>, in other words,\nthey are 3D arrays, with positions lying on a 3D orthogonal and\nregularly spaced grid with nearest neighbor in space matching nearest\nneighbor in the array. The function builds a scalar field assuming the\npoints are regularly spaced.</p>\n<p><strong>Keyword arguments:</strong></p>\n<ul>\n<li><p><code>color</code> the color of the vtk object. Overides the colormap, if any, when specified. This is specified as a triplet of float ranging from 0\nto 1, eg (1, 1, 1) for white.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>colormap</code> type of colormap to use.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>contours</code> Integer/list specifying number/list of contours. Specifying a list of values will only give the requested contours\nasked for.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>extent</code> [xmin, xmax, ymin, ymax, zmin, zmax] Default is the x, y, z arrays extent. Use this to change the extent of the object created.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>figure</code> Figure to populate.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>line_width</code> The width of the lines, if any used. Must be a float. Default: 2.0</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>name</code> the name of the vtk object created.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>opacity</code> The overall opacity of the vtk object. Must be a float. Default: 1.0</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>reset_zoom</code> Reset the zoom to accomodate the data newly added to the scene. Defaults to True.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>transparent</code> make the opacity of the actor depend on the scalar.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>vmax</code> vmax is used to scale the colormap. If None, the max of the data will be used</p>\n</li>\n<li><p><code>vmin</code> vmin is used to scale the colormap. If None, the min of the data will be used</p>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<p><strong>Example</strong> (run in <code>ipython --gui=qt</code>, or in the mayavi2 interactive shell, see <a href=\"https://docs.enthought.com/mayavi/mayavi/mlab_running_scripts.html#running-mlab-scripts\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Running mlab scripts</a> for more info):</p>\n<pre><code>\ndef test_contour3d():\n x, y, z = np.ogrid[-5:5:64j, -5:5:64j, -5:5:64j]\n\n scalars = x * x * 0.5 + y * y + z * z * 2.0\n\n obj = contour3d(scalars, contours=4, transparent=True)\n return obj ```\n</code></pre>\n</blockquote>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10205", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16705/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10372, "author": "Mick", "author_id": 3953, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>It is possible that your board has a cloned FT232R USB-to-serial bridge chip, and FTDI drivers supplied via the Windows update channel will not work with cloned chips. Try using the Windows setup executable from the following page:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">FTDI Chip: Virtual COM Port Drivers</a></p>\n\n<p>Note that there are no known problems with MacOS and Linux drivers.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10380, "author": "cmm", "author_id": 2082, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Good morning, and welcome to 3D Printing SE.</p>\n\n<p>You said: \"I can see information from the printer via USB in RepG and through OctoPrint, but can't send any prints, commands or upgrade firmware (I wanted to flash Sailfish 7.7 eventually).\" This means that the USB communication is working fine. It isn't a question of drivers or the FTDI interface chip. That must be working fine or you wouldn't have any USB communication.</p>\n\n<p>I would look toward a problem with slight dialect differences in the firmware that is flashed compared with the expectations of the host software.</p>\n\n<p>I am not an expert regarding the differences in firmware G-code dialects, but there are at least: Marlin, Repetier, Mach3, LinuxCNC, Machinekit, Smoothie, Makerware, Sailfish. I got this list from the <a href=\"https://slic3r.org/about/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">\"about\"</a> page for Slic3r.</p>\n\n<p>I would start by trying to slice files with different dialects and seeing if one of the resulting G-code files prints. You may also find a description of the firmware you have flashed with references one of these names, which would save a lot of time.</p>\n\n<p>For flashing, you could try dropping back to the Arduino level and use those flashing tools.</p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p>More answer in response to the information you have added to the question.</p>\n\n<p>X3G files are not G-code files. If you are using a control program that expects G-code, it will not be able to handle X3G code. Similarly, if the printer expects X3G, it may not understand G-code.</p>\n\n<p>Octoprint has an adapter layer that seems to interconvert between g-code and GPX. You are running this layer. At about line 11 of the log file you added to the question:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>Recv: echo: gcode to x3g translation by GPX</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>The GPX add-in may be perfect, and it may cover all version of firmware and all functions. I don't use it and am unfamiliar with it.</p>\n\n<p>To flash your board, I would be reluctant to assume that Octoprint/GPX new how to run that protocol. I would use the host software supplied by the vendor. Flashing is an infrequent operation, and add-on software is less likely to have it 100% correct. If I were writing GPX, I would intentionally make flashing be out-of-scope, since the consequences of doing it wrong could easily be to brick the printer.</p>\n\n<p>Since Octoprint/GPX claims to be able to print to the printer, I would being all software up the respective current versions. Flash current Sailfish firmware using the supplied host tools. Update to the current/best version of Octoprint/GPX. Read the release notes of Octoprint/GPX for known issues.</p>\n\n<p>It seems that X3D files are fairly limited in their use, which will constrain your options to be within the scope of the community that uses X3D files. I tried to add the X3D tag to your question, but so far no one has created the X3D tag.</p>\n\n<p>Makerbot is part of Stratasys, and should be well supported. It may be well supported mostly within its ecosystem. You have a clone of a Makerbot machine, so, even though most or all of the printer parts are open source, you may not be able to use the genuine Makerbot host control software.</p>\n\n<p>Your question asked if your controller board was working. It almost certainly is. I think you have a software/firmware compatibility problem.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10393, "author": "Sean Houlihane", "author_id": 4927, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>You can find gcode information at the <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">RepRap wiki</a>. The obvious other thing to try is <code>G1 X10</code> for a move.</p>\n\n<p>Octoprint prints by sending the individual file's gcode one line at a time over USB. It appears that the firmware on your printer might not respond to any 'action' commands over gcode, rather than any fault as such with your hardware/software setup.</p>\n\n<p>Although your board reports a specific firmware version, it is impossible to know if that firmware was corrupted, or patched by the vendor (and no change reflected in the revision print). Thus, your best option to regain full control might be to flash your own firmware using low-level access. I'm guessing that will require an <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-system_programming\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">ICSP</a> lead.</p>\n\n<p>The fact that USB works, and the printer works, tends to suggest that the board is properly functional.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10371", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16855/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10485, "author": "Davo", "author_id": 4922, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The PLA isn't advancing as fast as the gcode requires. Since you've already tried higher temperatures, try printing at half the speed (F value). If that works, try 3/4 of the original F value, etc., until you find the best feed rate at this temperature for your material, printer, and model.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10537, "author": "Lars Pötter", "author_id": 204, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/204", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I had such effects and fixed it by reducing the flow. It might be that your filament is thicker than it should be. Therefore too much filament ends up in the nozzle. Once the molten filament accumulates enough to rise to the cold end of the hot end it solidifies and nothing moves anymore -> clicking.</p>\n\n<p>So either try to go with the Flow from 100% down to 96% or change the Filament width setting of the slicer. Both will have the same result of g-Codes that push less plastic. If you see under extrusion then you overdid it.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10543, "author": "cmm", "author_id": 2082, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p><strong>Feeding Too Fast?</strong></p>\n\n<p>The feed rate required of the extruder is related to the volume per second divided by the cross-sectional area of the filament. The Fxxxx number is not the filament feed rate directly, but is the linear motion rate for the nozzle.</p>\n\n<p>The F1800 corresponds to a motion of 1800mm/min, of 30mm/sec. This is reasonable but could be made slower by changing the slic3r settings.</p>\n\n<p><strong>Units Set to mm?</strong></p>\n\n<p>Check that the g-code is specifying millimeters (mm) as the basic unit. There should be a G21 in the g-code to do set units to mm. If not present, add it to the \"Custom G-code\" section in the \"printer parameters\" for the start of a job.</p>\n\n<p><strong>Retraction Heating the Heat Break?</strong></p>\n\n<p>To eliminate the possibility of retraction bringing the heat up into the heat-break, try turning off all retraction. The print will be stringy, but this is trying to solve the problem, not yet to optimize the print. </p>\n\n<p><strong>Jam in the Heat Break or Cold End?</strong></p>\n\n<p>When the filament stops extruding, is it jammed tightly into extruder assembly? </p>\n\n<p>With the extruder hot, is it difficult to pull out the filament? </p>\n\n<p>If so, you may have heat creeping into the heat break, which should be cooled by the cold end and possibly a heat sink. Do you have air flowing over the cold-end and the heat-break? If you are getting heat-break or cold-end jams, the cooling is not adequate.</p>\n\n<p><strong>Heater Problem?</strong></p>\n\n<p>Is the heater heating well enough? </p>\n\n<p>Is heat being transferred into the filament? </p>\n\n<p>How big is your test object for which the first two layers print well? If the object is small, plastic that is already molten in the nozzle may be sufficient for the first two layers. </p>\n\n<p>If you are using something like Repetier Host to control the printer over USB, you can see a graph of thermister temperature, which should not drop more than a few degrees when printing starts. If the temperature is dropping more than 5°C, there may be a heating problem.</p>\n\n<p>If there is a heating problem, it could be anywhere in the energy chain, from the power supply, wiring, FET switch, PID settings, bad heater cartridge, and high thermal resistance between heater cartridge and the hot end.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10483", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16945/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10494, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Marlin has <code>G2</code> (clockwise arc) and <code>G3</code> (counterclockwise arc) commands that could be used to do this. <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G002-G003.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">You can find detailed documentation for the command here.</a></p>\n\n<p>Basically, you can use</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>G2 R1 X5 Y5</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>to draw a (clockwise) arc from the current position to <span class=\"math-container\">$(X,Y)=(5,5)$</span> with a radius of <span class=\"math-container\">$1$</span>.</p>\n\n<p>So, your rounded triangle could be drawn with 3 straight line moves and 3 arc moves. Figuring out the exact coordinates for each move would be a quite challenging geometry exercise, as you'd need to know where the straight line portion of each side ends and the rounded portion starts.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10497, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>First, convert the given measurements into a sketch...</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/ivxIW.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/ivxIW.png\" alt=\"Sketched out dimensions\" /></a></p>\n<h2>G-code shenanigans</h2>\n<p>we actually have the printer do circles.. let's plot that out...</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/hGFSc.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/hGFSc.png\" alt=\"Plotted all start-ends and centers\" /></a></p>\n<p>Using that, it's easy to write the G-code using the Documentation for <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">G1</a> and <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G002-G003.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">G2</a>. You'll have to add the E values to extrude something along the paths, but your sketch would turn into this path:</p>\n<pre><code>G92 X0 Y0 ; the current position is now (0,0) on the XY\nG90 ;Abolute mode for everything...\nM83 ;...but for the E-argument, so you can just put the length into the extrusions that are to be done\nG0 X10.66 Y2 \nG2 R5 X6.33 Y9.5 ; Alternate: G3 I0 J5 X6.33 Y9.5\nG1 X45.66 Y77.638 \nG2 R5 X54.33 Y77.638 ; Alternate: G3 I4.33 Y-2.5 X54.33 Y77.638\nG1 93.67 Y9.5\nG2 R5 X89.33 Y2 ; Alternate: G3 I-4.33 Y-2.5 X89.33 Y2\nG1 X10.66 Y2\nG0 X0 Y0\nG91 ; return to relative coordinates\n</code></pre>\n<p><strong>This code has to be prefixed by a move to where you want to start the pattern</strong> and will <strong>not</strong> know if you move it off the build plate, so keep 100 mm X and 87 mm in Y of the allowable build plate. It will end exactly where you started it.</p>\n<h2>Iterative approach</h2>\n<p>In many uses of g-code, <em>rounded</em> corners are actually n-gons with a very high number n. then we only need <code>G1</code> and can easily calculate the length of the stretches and fill in the G1. We need to iterate down to somewhat circular...</p>\n<p>Let's start iterating with n=3 aka a triangle, which gives a direct line over the corner gives this:</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANEnx.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/ANEnx.png\" alt=\"Iteration 1\" /></a></p>\n<p>going to n=6 (hexagon) follows the curve a lot better...</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRSMV.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRSMV.png\" alt=\"Iteration 2\" /></a></p>\n<p>going to n=12 looks almost round on a larger scale...</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/STTXL.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/STTXL.png\" alt=\"Iteration 3\" /></a></p>\n<p>and when we reach n=24, we are pretty close to the circle..</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO7dr.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO7dr.png\" alt=\"iteration 4\" /></a></p>\n<p>And as we go above n=6, we also get easier math for the corners, as we always get the same lengths of movement along X and Y just swapped around due to symmetry.</p>\n<p>With all these stretches defined, we could start to work in <em>relative</em> coordinates easily, again without E, and only for the bottom left corner:</p>\n<pre><code>G0 X10.66 Y2 \nG1 X-1.294 Y0.17\nG1 X-1.206 Y0.5\nG1 X-1.036 Y0.795\nG1 X-0.795 X1.036\nG1 X-0.5 Y1.206\nG1 X-0.17 Y1.294\nG1 X0.17 Y1.294\nG1 X0.5 Y1.036\n...\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10488", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16948/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10586, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Aluminium is conductive, but aluminium oxide is not, which is just so what there (unavoidably, since aluminium rapidly oxidises in air) happens to be a thin layer of on top of your bed. The coating is very thin, but it might foul your plans. It would work better with a sharp probe (that can puncture the layer) than with a 3D printer nozzle. You should be careful, because your probing method might be unreliable (which could cause the nozzle to crash into the bed).</p>\n\n<p>Wiring the endstop 5V directly to ground will create a short circuit which will damage your printer. You should use the third (signal) pin and ground instead.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10592, "author": "K Mmmm", "author_id": 10369, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Edit: i recommend using some conductive felt</p>\n<p>The top of the aluminum bed is not conductive, but the sides of it are. You can re-create the Lulzbot Mini endstop set-up by connecting the Z-stop ground to the side of the aluminum bed, then using binder clips and nickels as the &quot;washers&quot;. In my case I had to use quarters because my bed was really big and the extruder came down far from its edges.</p>\n<p>To do this, you'll need:</p>\n<ol>\n<li>A multimeter and a &gt;100 Ohm resistor for safety</li>\n<li>Some nickels (or any conductive coin)</li>\n<li>Some binder clips (with steel insides)</li>\n<li>Some aluminum foil (increases reliability of setup)</li>\n<li>A Z end-stop</li>\n</ol>\n<p><strong>Building conductive washer perimeter</strong></p>\n<p>Create a conductive washer system along the sides of your aluminum bed by:</p>\n<ol>\n<li><p>Wrapping a nickel-sized amount of aluminum foil on the bottom, side, and top of the bed</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>Placing a nickel on top of that aluminum foil on the bedttop</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>Placing a steel-inside binder clip to hold down the nickel</p>\n<p>Do this multiple times along the perimeter of the bed. It seems you are limited to an evenly-spaced grid structure by the software. In my case I placed the washers at:</p>\n</li>\n</ol>\n<pre><code>X = 0, Y = 0\nX = 0.5 * Max_X, Y=0\nX = Max_X, Y = 0\nX = 0, Y = Max_Y\nX = 0.5*Max_X, Y = 0.5 * Max_Y\nX = Max_X, Y = Max_X\n</code></pre>\n<p>The aluminum foil provides a contact between the side of the bed and the top and bottom of it. The binder clip can be pressed inwards against the aluminum foil to ensure high reliability. However, the binder clip can get loose. So, using aluminum foil helps make the bottom of the bed conductive too, increasing the surface area of the contact for the binder clip.</p>\n<p><strong>Attaching red wire to hot end</strong></p>\n<p>Attach the red part of the Z-endstop to your heatblock. It must be in the heatblock somewhere. The thermister hole might work. For me, I was able to slide it in a small space that's used to tighten the screw that holds the heat rod.</p>\n<p>Now we want to attach the Z-stop ground (black wire) to the conductive perimeter.</p>\n<p><strong>Before attaching Z-stop ground underneath one of the binder clips, a word of caution...</strong></p>\n<p>The first time I did this, I stupidly placed a binder clip on top of the 12V heat rod attached to the bottom of the aluminum bed. This put all sides of the aluminum bed (and my conductive washers) at 12V, which created a short into the Z-stop ground pin when I connected it. This resulted in my Z-stop ground pin SMOKING up from the heat going through it. As a word of precaution, you should attach a resistor between the Z-stop ground pin and the side of the aluminum bed should something go wrong in the future. I used a 2.1 kOhm resistor I had laying around. This will limit the current going into the Z-stop ground pin. Since everyone's aluminum bed will be different (for e.g. the bottom of my bed is non-conductive, but yours might be conductive), it is really important to be careful here.</p>\n<p>Before powering on, test to see that all of the nickels have low resistance between them. Test to see that the hot end nozzle is connected to the Z-stop red wire. Use a multimeter for this.</p>\n<p>If you don't have a resistor, wait to attach the Z-stop ground before powering on. This will let you check the voltage to tell if your aluinum bed sides are connected to the 12V heat rod. After that, you can power off and attach the Z-stop ground and power on again.</p>\n<p><strong>Setting up the software</strong></p>\n<p>If you've flashed your firmware before, setting up the software is easy. Go to the &quot;AUTO_BED&quot; section of Configuration.h. First thing to do is to set your Z-offset to about 2.0mm and remove any existing offsets you might've had for a Z-probe (for e.g. X_PROBE_OFFSET... = -40 was set for me). The Z-offset should be set to a positive value this time. <strong>Don't forget to change this setting in EEPROM if you set itas well!</strong></p>\n<p>Since I'm only probing the perimeter, I use BILINEAR bed leveling for this one. Bilinear calculates points automatically for me, so I had to set up my perimeter according to an evenly spaced grid like I listed in &quot;Building conductive washer perimeter&quot;.</p>\n<p>First I activated AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR</p>\n<p>And my IF tree looks like:</p>\n<pre><code>#if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR) || ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)\n\n // Set the number of grid points per dimension.\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y 2\n\n // Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).\n #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 1\n #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 264\n #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 1\n #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 264\n\n // The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 0\n\n // Probe along the Y axis, advancing X after each column\n //#define PROBE_Y_FIRST\n\n #if ENABLED(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)\n\n // Beyond the probed grid, continue the implied tilt?\n // Default is to maintain the height of the nearest edge.\n \n #define EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID\n //\n // Experimental Subdivision of the grid by Catmull-Rom method.\n // Synthesizes intermediate points to produce a more detailed mesh.\n //\n #define ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION\n #if ENABLED(ABL_BILINEAR_SUBDIVISION)\n // Number of subdivisions between probe points\n #define BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS 3\n #endif\n\n #endif\n#elif // other bed leveling trees\n</code></pre>\n<p>Feel free to disable EXTRAPOLATE_BEYOND_GRID and BILINEAR_SUBDIVISIONS because they might not be necessary for you.</p>\n<p><strong>Time to autobed level</strong></p>\n<p>Of course, even with all that work, you're still going to want to be able to power off your 3D printer if it doesn't recognize even one of the nickels. So stay close to your power source and be sure to power it off safely if it doesn't recognize one of your contacts or if something comes loose. For example one of my coins was very dirty and yea, it made a huge difference in that corner, so I had to swap it out.</p>\n<p><strong>Last but not least</strong>, if you have some extra binder clips, you can enable the &quot;Nozzle cleaning&quot; feature in Configuration.h, just by binder-clipping the dark-green layer of a sponge to the board. Then just set the X-Y coordinates of that layer in the nozzle_clean feature in Configuration.h and make your life a lot easier. These two features working well together basically mean you don't have to do anything between multiple prints except remove the prints from the bed.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10607, "author": "cmm", "author_id": 2082, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This will not work reliably.</p>\n\n<p>I know, I have tried it, for a couple of years, with poor consistency.</p>\n\n<p>Now, I will tell you that it worked better than the parallax IR sensors. It worked better than trying to slam the head into the bed and listen for the click.</p>\n\n<p>I used the brass nozzle and the aluminum bed as a switch to detect the bed position.</p>\n\n<p>I used ABS slurry on the bed. With a 100°C bed the ABS was soft enough for the nozzle to make contact. Elmer's Glue for PLA also was soft enough.</p>\n\n<p>But, with the elasticity I had in the synthetic Z-axis of the delta machine, the time delay to much the bed adhesive out of the way, and the general problem of trying to conduct electricity through an aluminum oxide layer, I had variability of about 0.1 mm, which was far to much to give a reliable first layer.</p>\n\n<p>To \"level\" the delta bed, I would touch each point several times (with a clean bed) and fit my leveling function to the noisy data. For finding my zero reference at the beginning of a print, I would touch off three time and only use the third one. This helped, but it was still super noisy.</p>\n\n<p>I have subsequently incorporated a strain gauge in the triangular delta-bit. It gives much more accurate contact information and is not effected by the bed glue not does the aluminum oxide layer cause problems.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10585", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10625, "author": "user77232", "author_id": 12857, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>If you use OctoPrint, there is a plugin that will allow you to take action on certain events, such as print completion. The action that it can take would allow you to turn of a TP-link smart plug; which would turn off the printer. You could then use the phone app to turn it back on.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10627, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>In Ultimaker Cura (and pretty much any slicer), you can easily modify the end code of the Ender 3. To go all the way up, you could add the following in the end:</p>\n\n<pre><code>G90 ;absolute positioning\nG1 Z300 ;goto height 300 ; Move to 300 mm = 30 cm.\nG91 ;back to relative positioning\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10628, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The most safe way to move the printer up to the maximum print height is to use a concept known as \"<strong>keywords</strong>\" (sort of constants that are filled by the correct value when slicing) in Ultimaker Cura, certainly if you have multiple printers with different print area sizes.</p>\n\n<p>To use these keywords, just add these in between curly braces and insert them into your slicer \"End G-code\" script. These keywords will be substituted with actual numbers from the printer settings or slicing configuration parameters. In this case we need to use the maximum print height which is specified by the keyword <code>machine_height</code>. This keyword takes its value from the printer settings, set for the printer in the graphical user interface of the printer settings, see image below (this is a configuration of an Ultimaker 3 Extended, it also shows the <strong>Start G-code</strong> and <strong>End G-code</strong> which you can tweak yourself, as seen by the additional G-code line <code>G0 F10000 Z{machine_height}</code> that has been added for this demonstration).</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/Np6Gy.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\" title=\"Printer settings, configuration of an Ultimaker 3 Extended\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/Np6Gy.png\" alt=\"Printer settings, configuration of an Ultimaker 3 Extended\" title=\"Printer settings, configuration of an Ultimaker 3 Extended\"></a></p>\n\n<p>E.g. similar to <a href=\"/a/10627\">this answer</a>, you could solve this with a keyword. Now when you slice for a certain printer (e.g. with the printer settings of the image above), the correct value will be filled in automatically when slicing the print object as can be seen from this snippet of G-code:</p>\n\n<pre>\n...\nG91 ;Relative movement\nG0 F15000 X8.0 Z0.5 E-4.5 ;Wiping+material retraction\nG0 F10000 Z1.5 E4.5 ;Compensation for the retraction\nG90 ;Disable relative movement\nG0 F10000 Z300 ; &lt;------------ note to see {machine_height} be resolved to 300 mm\n...\n</pre>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p><em>This is specifically for Ultimaker Cura. Do note that e.g. Slic3r even takes the keyword concept further by allowing arithmetic and logic, similar as you could do in programming languages!</em></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10622", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16424/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10639, "author": "Hamy", "author_id": 16835, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16835", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>My current workaround is to use <code>union</code> instead of intersection. Unfortunately, that means I have to use an <code>if</code> clause which makes the code have two paths instead of one clean approach. Also, unlike the above method, this does not result in a clean cylindrical shape but must instead by combined with a proper cylinder to get the final pie slice </p>\n\n<pre><code> size = length + 2;\n if (angle_deg &lt;= 90) {\n translate([0,0,-1]) \n intersection() {\n cube(size);\n rotate(angle_deg-90) cube(size);\n }\n } else if (angle_deg &lt;= 180) {\n translate([0,0,-1]) \n union() {\n cube(size);\n rotate(angle_deg-90) cube(size);\n } \n } else {\n echo(str(\"FAILURE - Angle cannot exceed 180\"));\n } \n\n\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10663, "author": "Mick", "author_id": 3953, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Although generating complex shapes by combining primitive OpenSCAD shapes is a well-established tradition, and is often all that is needed, it would be more elegant in this case to generate a pie slice directly using the <code>polygon</code> function and a list comprehension.</p>\n\n<pre><code>module pie_slice(r=3.0, a=30) {\n polygon(points=[\n [0, 0],\n for(theta=0; theta&lt;a; theta=theta+$fa)\n [r*cos(theta), r*sin(theta)],\n [r*cos(a), r*sin(a)]\n ]);\n}\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Note that the above code is a little crude, since it does no error checking, but it works. It uses the <code>$fa</code> special variable for the step angle.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11093, "author": "CFreitas", "author_id": 13390, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13390", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This is what I use:</p>\n\n<pre><code>module pieSlice(a, r, h){\n // a:angle, r:radius, h:height\n rotate_extrude(angle=a) square([r,h]);\n}\npieSlice(110,20,3);\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10638", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16835/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10649, "author": "Tom van der Zanden", "author_id": 26, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p><code>D35</code>, <code>D37</code>, <code>D17</code> are the pin labels on the Arduino Mega. <em>These do not correspond to pin numbers within Marlin</em>.</p>\n\n<p>I believe that <code>D35</code> actually corresponds to marlin pin <code>49</code> and this is the number you should enter in your firmware. You can find the mapping in <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/fastio_1280.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">fastio_1280.h</a>:</p>\n\n<pre><code>Hardware Pin : 02 03 06 07 01 05 15 16 17 18 23 24 25 26 64 63 13 12 46 45 44 43 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 50 70 52 51 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 22 21 20 19 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 83 82 04 08 09 10 11 14 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 47 48 49 61 62 65 66 67 68 69 79 80 81 98 99 100\nPort : E0 E1 E4 E5 G5 E3 H3 H4 H5 H6 B4 B5 B6 B7 J1 J0 H1 H0 D3 D2 D1 D0 A0 A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 C7 C6 C5 C4 C3 C2 C1 C0 D7 G2 G1 G0 L7 L6 L5 L4 L3 L2 L1 L0 B3 B2 B1 B0 F0 F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 K0 K1 K2 K3 K4 K5 K6 K7 E2 E6 E7 xx xx H2 H7 G3 G4 xx xx xx xx xx D4 D5 D6 xx xx J2 J3 J4 J5 J6 J7 xx xx xx xx xx\nLogical Pin : 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx xx\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Look on the top row for the pin number (e.g. D35 corresponds to 35), then look on the bottom row to find the pin number to use in Marlin (in this case, 49).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10657, "author": "K Mmmm", "author_id": 10369, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<ul>\n<li><p>I got it to work using a CNC shield. Still haven't figured out the RAMPS 1.4 board.</p></li>\n<li><p>It doesn't work using D1 and D2 inside Aux-1 because they are used in serial communication to an LCD. So every time you send a command over USB, they get clogged. I ended up using ports 4, 5, and 63 and it works perfectly (no pin mapping needed like in other answer). </p></li>\n</ul>\n\n<pre><code> #define E4_STEP_PIN 4 // D4\n #define E4_DIR_PIN 5// D5\n #define E4_ENABLE_PIN 63// D63\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10647", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10689, "author": "user77232", "author_id": 12857, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The problem seems to occur in the same area; along the z axis. You also seem to have an elephant's foot from the first layer being squashed. Change the flow rate in the slicer. Re tram (level) the bed and clean your nozzle.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10692, "author": "tbm0115", "author_id": 98, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>As @user77232 points out, you may have a general flow rate issue which can be adjusted in your slicer.</p>\n\n<p>However, it looks like your machine might be retracting during some of the center layers. Notice the first few layers extrude relatively normal, then it under extrudes, then it goes back to relatively normal a few layers before a ceiling. Also note that the under extrusion seems to stop exactly where the z-step occurs (see the z-step seam).</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/22506-under-extrusion-only-on-corners/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">This link</a> shows that it's possible it could be your retraction settings before each layer. I'm not sure what it is with Cura, but in MakerWare and older slicers you could specify a retract distance before each layer. I would try reducing this. Also, these older slicers had different retract rates/distances for bases, floors, main wall, supports, bridges, top layers and more. So, this could be why you have different results throughout Z in your part.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10705, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>From the sliced image you it appears as if long travels are present. High temperature (205&nbsp;&deg;C is on the upper side for PLA) slow travel moves and long moved allows filament to leak out into the infill region. Once it reaches the outer perimeter, there is not enough of liquid filament available and it will start under extruded. </p>\n\n<p>Lower temperature with 5&nbsp;&deg;C increments (down to 195&nbsp;&deg;C) and increase travel speed with increments of 10&nbsp;mm/s.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10710, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Based on other comments, answers, and question edits so far, in addition to your original question, I believe there are possibly two things going on here: incorrect retraction settings, including a misunderstanding of which settings are relevant and what they do, and issues related to slow acceleration. Both relate to misdepositing/loss of material.</p>\n\n<p>First, some basics. When the filament is advanced to the point needed to extrude material and print at the intended volumetric rate, it's under significant pressure, compressed between the extruder gear and the nozzle. My understanding is that your printer has a direct drive extruder, not a bowden, so there's far less compression than with a bowden setup but it's still there. This means that, if you try to stop extruding, it's material will continue to come out of the nozzle, just at a decreasing rate, until the pressure dissipates. This effect is reduced but still present if the nozzle is held-against/moving-over already printed material, and heavy if moving over empty space, even moreso if moving across sparsely-filled space like infill where it will bond with the already-deposited material and get \"stretched\"/\"pulled\" out.</p>\n\n<p>The idea of retraction is to pull the filament back when the print head is moving to a new location without trying to deposit material, to relieve this pressure and prevent unwanted misdepositing/loss of material, and to reverse the process, putting the filament back exactly where it was when the last printed line ended, the next time it starts trying to deposit material.</p>\n\n<p>The relevant options in Cura are:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Enable Retraction - must be on</li>\n<li>Retraction Distance - should be at least 5-6 mm for bowden setups, probably more like 0.5-2 mm for direct drive.</li>\n<li>Retraction Minimum Travel - should be 0</li>\n<li>Combing Mode - try different settings. Off is probably the best relative to your issues, but hurts your print time a lot for certain models, and can hurt quality in other ways.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Everything else related to retraction is fairly irrelevant, especially \"Retract at Layer Change\" is a niche option and not typically useful. As I understand it, turning just \"Retract at Layer Change\" on does not mean retraction is on.</p>\n\n<p>Now, your other issue may be acceleration. Extrusion works best as acceleration speed approaches infinity, because the extrusion rate and pressure needed to extrude will be fairly constant for the entire line/curve. If acceleration is very slow, pressure will be wrong during the start and end of lines. It's likely that, due to high pressure, excess material will get deposited at the end of one line while slowing down, then after moving to start the next line, even if you retract the filament, you'll have insufficient pressure at the nozzle after reversing the retraction to start the next line.</p>\n\n<p>A jerk limit of 5 mm/s is really low. I'm used to more like 20-30 mm/s. You don't say what your acceleration limit is, but it's probably also low. Slow acceleration has minimal impact if your max speed is slow, because you quickly reach the max speed and most of the print speed (and thus extrusion rate) is steady. But if you want to print at high speeds, you need high acceleration. Try and see if you can increase it. Or accept printing at slow speeds.</p>\n\n<p>Another option, if you're open to hacking on your printer, is replacing the stock firmware with a recent version of Marlin with the <a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Linear Advance</a> feature. It does the math to model the filament pressure as a spring, with a spring constant you can tweak, so that it can compensate for varying print speed and end lines with approximately no pressure remaining.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 15114, "author": "Simon Gee", "author_id": 25739, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25739", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I was experiencing exactly the same problem (CR-10S, Cura 4.5, all mechanical issues fixed, new nozzle, new fans, good quality PLA), I would like to add one observation that might contribute to a solution (yes, I know this thread is old but many people are still experiencing this issue (a lot actually) any everybody seems to be stuck in the &quot;you need to level your bed&quot; loop) but this discussion here is going beyond this and is by far the most constructive I have seen so far:</p>\n<p>Ok, here goes: when measuring my hotend with a thermocouple probe (Uni-T UT320D) right behind the nozzle (after removing the Bowden tube), I can observe a significant deviation between the displayed temp (= the same one I entered in Cura) and the temperature the filament gets to see. This is around 20 °C in difference @ 200 °C, meaning a setting of 205 °C is actually closer to 185 °C. For the bed the offset is only 1-2 °C. After swapping the glass bead NTC just for fun (Ohms were OK) ...nothing changed. Others have observed this offset in CR10 machines as well (original firmware).</p>\n<p>Combined with the fact that we CAN produce nice prints at insanely slow speeds (10 - 20 mm/s), this somehow gives me the feeling that some bug (somewhere) has reduced the heating capacity of the hotend in the affected machines / set-ups... Now this could be a parasitic loss due to a bad connection somewhere but this would quickly lead to other problems (fire) as well (which it didn't - at least in my case).</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 15565, "author": "user26699", "author_id": 26699, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26699", "pm_score": -1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>try retract before outer wall off.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 16814, "author": "tilikum sea", "author_id": 29535, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/29535", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I experienced almost the exact issue printing PETG, where severe under extrusion happens at the start of a new layer.</p>\n<p>After going though the tool path in Cura I determined that the root cause of this is because the last printing step at each layer is to fill the small gaps. The extruder would extrude very little material while going though the small gaps in the printed layer. The melted plastic in the print head would get dragged out, therefore more material would be lost than what was accounted for in Cura.</p>\n<p>Because of the uncertainty of how much material would be lost in the process, there is almost no way to compensate for it. The best &quot;solution&quot; I came up with is to add a small sacrificial cylinder to the model. The printer will fill the small gaps in the main object, then print the dummy cylinder and then print the next layer. This completely eliminated the under extrusion problem at the expense of a bit more material usage. Of course the printed sacrificial cylinder would look really bad with severe under extrusion at the z-seam.</p>\n<p>I believe the same solution will also fix your problem: just enable printing outside wall first, and add a dummy cylinder to your model.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10680", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12436/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10717, "author": "CrossRoads", "author_id": 16523, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16523", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>&quot;Since it has a heating chamber I can't use normal stepper motor&quot; Sure you can, the interior doesn't get all that warm unless you really seal it up tight, and that's not really needed. I have an enclosure around my 200x200x200 mm MIGBOT (early Prusa clone with direct drive extruder), printing PLA with 60 °C bed, the interior only gets a few degrees warmer. The motors can take a lot more heat than you think they can.</p>\n<p>I have a couple pictures taken from this question, <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10008/printer-cover-for-noise-abatement-cleanliness-temperature-control\">Printer cover for noise abatement, cleanliness, temperature control</a>:</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/RF2fC.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\" title=\"Enclosure with front open\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/RF2fC.jpg\" alt=\"Enclosure with front open\" title=\"Enclosure with front open\" /></a></p>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kj1QJ.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\" title=\"Enclosure with front closed\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kj1QJ.jpg\" alt=\"Enclosure with front closed\" title=\"Enclosure with front closed\" /></a></p>\n<p>The front &amp; back panels are 18x24 inch polycarbonate from Home Depot, I 3D printed the corner brackets, and added a couple of pieces of wood for some stiffness. The entire front hinges up. The top is 24x24 inch, and the back 6&quot; hinges up to access the SD card that is on the display/control panel.</p>\n<hr />\n<p>I printed 9 2&quot; x 2&quot; pieces for a chess board, took about 8.5 hours I think.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10718, "author": "Fernando Baltazar", "author_id": 4454, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4454", "pm_score": -1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You don't need to worry about the stepper for heating chamber since the direct drive uses a fan for cooling the motor area.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/MfR7h.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/MfR7h.jpg\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>When I started to make my own printer I had the same question but in order to make me feel good and peace. I prefer to use a bowder extruder.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/AChjC.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/AChjC.jpg\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>This bowden extruder comes in different sizes: Normal as picture shows above, small, and mini like the other that shows pre assembled below.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/plV2c.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/plV2c.jpg\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>However the question should be different like, <strong>Can I print inside an oven?</strong> for this will address the question to other possibilities:</p>\n\n<p>1.- Cover or shield the motor with some foil to avoid the heating <br>\n2.- Add a water cooling like CPU, so the water flows from outside to the motor to keep a low temperature. <br>\n3.- Add cooling fans, this ones should take te air from outside and tha air can be directed with a corrugated tube for the Extruder motor and the radiator. For the X, Y and Z motors can be a rigid tube. </p>\n\n<p>This cooling fans won't affect the internal chamber temperature due the cooling process is punctual. </p>\n\n<p>4.- Many electronics components are designed to work at 105°, so won't be affected in short terms, however the life of circutry will decrease a lot, since designs cover until 5 years at normal conditions so your printer can last up to 1.5 years.</p>\n\n<p>Recommendations:</p>\n\n<p>I don't see a real reason to keep the printer isolated to high temperatures while the porpuse of this is to keep temperature variations from clime like winter and summer. In my case the print room has a normal temperature of 38°C on summers and -2°C on winter, so how can I print with the same quality on winter if the printer is so cold? <em>ah, I need a chamber to keep that temperature of summer</em>. then I made the chamber to acheive 38°C not the whole temperature of the bed print. </p>\n\n<p>If I need to print ABS so I set the bed temperature to 80°C so the parts won´t get warped, due the temperature for adhesive for ABS is the correct; also this temperature won´t over heat the chamber at least near to 60°C, but can it be reduced extracting the heat with other fan. For this case is just only one or two fans.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPzRf.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPzRf.jpg\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>Note:\nThe Idea to have the whole printer inside an oven will help to keep that 80°-95°C under control is good, but some times is hard to implement it due materials and its purposes are different and serviseable life will be too low.</p>\n\n<p>So your chamber should include the printing area only or follow the recommendation as the picture above. Those photo was taken from the site <a href=\"https://www.engineering.com/3DPrinting/3DPrintingArticles/ArticleID/5353/A-New-Industrial-RepRap-Emerges.aspx\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">industrial RepRap</a> and also exposes som e features as i'm suggesting.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10721, "author": "cmm", "author_id": 2082, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Two things matter for the stepper motor: the insulation temperature and the Curie point of the magnet. </p>\n\n<p>You probably aren't near the Curie point.</p>\n\n<p>The critical temperature is the sum of the ambient plus the temperature rise from the drive power. In your case, I would try mounting the motor to a water cooled metal cold plate. Bring the lower temperature to the motor. Mount the full face of the motor to the plate with thermal compound. </p>\n\n<p>Use a tiny pump to move water from a reservoir through the cold plate. For an example, check out the E3D Kracken.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10722, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>An alternative to finding steppers that can withstand the heat, you can consider not getting the heat near the steppers:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><em>Moving the steppers outside the heated build volume</em><br>\nWith 2 extra pulleys per stepper you can get the steppers outside the build volume.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/he7hz.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\" title=\"CoreXY kinematics based on source image of Greg Hoge\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/he7hz.png\" alt=\"CoreXY kinematics, steppers brought outside chamber\" title=\"CoreXY kinematics based on source image of Greg Hoge\"></a></p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><em>Shield the motors from the heat by placing them in a cooler tunnel or behind a face plate/cover</em><br>\nYou can also shield the steppers from the heat, e.g. the Ultimaker 3(E) the steppers are behind a cover.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Be aware that creating a 90&nbsp;&deg;C heat chamber, all the printed parts for the CoreXY need to be printed in a filament type that can withstand prolonged exposure to the temperature you want the chamber to be (or be made in metal). For the mentioned temperature this implies the use of some more exotic filament types, see e.g. <a href=\"/a/6120/\">this answer</a>.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10723, "author": "user77232", "author_id": 12857, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857", "pm_score": -1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I'm just going to come straight out and say it. If you can't design and build a Core XY system then you should not even attempt a heated build chamber.</p>\n<p>The Stratasys 3D printers that have heated chambers use a H-Bot design (the predecessor of CoreXY), so as to keep everything out of the chamber. You can't use a regular hot end. You can't have fans on that hot end to keep it cool. You can't have the motors inside the chamber. You can barely have the filament in the chamber because it could get soft inside the tube.</p>\n<p>Some of the answers state that motors can operate at high temps already. That is only true in ambient conditions. The heat that the coils of the motor generate is trying to escape to the outside of the motor. It it much hotter inside! Therefore if you raise the external environment's temp to 90 °C then the heat won't escape as quickly; and if it raises beyond the melt/burn temp then the motor will fail. See:</p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnet_wire\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Wikipedia - Magnet_wire</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/211986/burning-temperature-of-copper-winding-of-motor\">Burning Temperature of Copper Winding of Motor</a></li>\n</ul>\n<p>After that fails the PVC coating on the lead wires will fail, usually resorting in a short, which could destroy the stepper drivers.</p>\n<p>Additionally, everything made of metal will expand. The ball bearings will expand, the rails will expand and the hot end will expand. The linear system could become tighter or looser; it could even warp depending on the type of steel. If it becomes looser, then there goes your ability to 3D print! You might end up needing to design and fabricate your parts so that they fit and work properly only when they are at the working temp.</p>\n<p>Here is what you need to build:</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8D26lcka8U\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">AON-M2 : High Temperature Industrial 3D Printer</a></p>\n<p><div class=\"youtube-embed\"><div>\r\n <iframe width=\"640px\" height=\"395px\" src=\"https://www.youtube.com/embed/d8D26lcka8U?start=0\"></iframe>\r\n </div></div></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 12164, "author": "Martynas", "author_id": 9733, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9733", "pm_score": -1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Then you need to add water cooling system for them.\nSomething like this:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/XwxyD.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\" title=\"trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/XwxyD.jpg\" alt=\"trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC\" title=\"trianglelab Stepper motor liquld cooling motor water cooling upgrade kit for Nema17 motor ETC\"></a></p>\n\n<p>Also, water cooled hotend would be a go ahead I guess.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14410, "author": "Peter Sorensen", "author_id": 23562, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23562", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>It is possible to buy cheap high temperature steppers. E.g., you can buy <a href=\"https://hightemp3d.com/collections/high-temperature-3d-printer-parts\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">LDO 180 °C winding steppers</a>.</p>\n<p>They can be used up to 135 °C without additional cooling and with reduced lifetime probably even higher.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10712", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10670/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10783, "author": "William Jerome", "author_id": 17262, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17262", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There is a temporary solution which I have found here, on the reprap forums, <a href=\"https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?13,857852,857876#msg-857876\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Re: Upload to the board failed after LCD enabled</a>:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>An official fix has been posted. Grab the new ultralcd.cpp from [<a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.0.x/Marlin/src/lcd/ultralcd.cpp\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">github.com</a>]</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>Apparently the sources contained a bug which was fixed later, a new version download fixed the problem.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10787, "author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2", "author_id": 11242, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p><a href=\"http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Marlin 2.0.0 is in an <strong><em>Alpha</em></strong> state.</a> 'Alpha' is a state before <em>Beta</em>, meaning, it's not hot off the presses, it isn't even <em>off the presses</em>. You need to go back to the most recent \"stable\" version of Marlin, which is 1.1.9 (found on the same page as the link above). This should <em>most likely</em> solve the errors and problems you're seeing.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10797, "author": "towe", "author_id": 13171, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Marlin 2.0 is still very much in development.</p>\n\n<p>If you face issues like this and you're certain you haven't introduced any typos,\ntry downloading the most current version of Marlin again (<a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Github</a> -> Download -> Download zip).\nCopy in your configuration files and try to compile.</p>\n\n<p>If the issue persists, you may try to use a version from a few days / weeks ago.\nFor this, select a previous commit from this <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/commits/bugfix-2.0.x\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">list</a>, and press the <code>&lt;&gt;</code> button to activate it.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10781", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17262/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10822, "author": "cmm", "author_id": 2082, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>It is interesting that the WTH line and the next line both should remove a cylinder of the same diameter from the same location. Only the height is different.</p>\n\n<p>It could be interesting to remove the first King/Queen line and see if there is a change.</p>\n\n<p>Have you checked the STL file with another tool, other than OpenSCAD? There may be a kink in the STL that confuses the geometry engine in OpenSCAD. The first difference could be catching the kink, and the second one carving out the magnet body in the bottom.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10824, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I see you've accepted cmm's answer, but I'd still like to take a stab at the mechanism of the failure based on your comment on it:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>Excellent explanation, thanks. The \"WTH\" cylinder is centered on the queen piece, and that has a sphere with lots of faces on top. So it looks like the \"kink\" is inside the queen where the sphere and the base cube overlap, and by accident, my trial-and-error removing of cylinders also removed just the right spot.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>My guess is that if you look at the triangle set of the STL file, you'll find the interior of the queen contains the parts of the cube that are inside the sphere and the parts of the sphere that are inside the cube; they may not even be clipped to meet each other properly where they cross each other's surfaces. Sadly there are lots of tools producing invalid STL files like this. The longer cylinder is probaly sufficient to overlap with where the cube and sphere cross, forcing OpenSCAD to break down the model in that region and recompute the mesh where the components overlap. Without that recomputation, the differences likely end up interacting with just the \"sphere part\" of the STL mesh.</p>\n\n<p>This explanation also seems to be consistent with the description of the thing on thingiverse:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>I much preferred the style of Bauhaus set that TeamTeaUSA's designed, but there was a lot of fiddling with the queen and the knight wouldn't print without supports. So I nestled the queen's sphere further into the body so it would print standing up, added supports for the knight and plated the whole thing.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>where it looks like the creator took someone else's STL files and moved parts around to create an overlap, likely without proper tooling that could regenerate a valid mesh.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10820", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14780/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 10975, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Extruding faces is only possible on 2D polygons. From a 3D object you cannot capture the face and extrude it. To extrude \"faces\" you would need to define the shape of the face and extend it in the third dimension of your choice. This way a 3D shape is created that could be concatenated (joined using e.g. <a href=\"https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/CSG_Modelling#union\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>union</code></a>) to the original shape. For the extrusion, the function <a href=\"https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/2D_to_3D_Extrusion#Linear_Extrude\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>linear_extrude</code></a> is available:</p>\n\n<pre><code>linear_extrude(height = fanwidth, center = true, convexity = 10, twist = -fanrot, slices = 20, scale = 1.0, $fn = 16) {...}\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10976, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Built-in to the language and its CSG model, no - processing the CSG tree is a completely separate phase following execution of the functional language, and there is no way to \"read back\" anything from the conversion of the model into faces in order to operate on the faces.</p>\n\n<p>However, you can do this if you're willing to do some heavy lifting yourself, or look for library code from someone else who's already done it. What it would involve is working out a description form of your own in terms of nested lists representing the model, with a module for converting the list to an OpenSCAD CSG tree. You can then write functions to manipulate this description in arbitrary ways, essentially reinventing the CSG phase of OpenSCAD within its own language. Some lesser versions of this have definitely been done in the past for things like implementing \"loft\" type functionality in OpenSCAD.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 10977, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>For extruding a single face, as long as you can know the plane the face is in, you can <a href=\"https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/3D_to_2D_Projection\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>projection</code></a> it to a 2D shape then <code>linear_extrude</code> that. In general you need the <code>cut=true</code> variant of <code>projection</code>, and you need to translate/rotate the object to be projected such that the face is in the XY plane (this is the \"as long as you can know\") part. Unfortunately this is subject to numerical instability, so you probably have to translate it by an extra 0.001 or so to <em>cross</em> the XY plane, in which case you'll end up with an approximation of the face rather than an exact version of it.</p>\n\n<p>(Strictly speaking OpenSCAD doesn't have exact things anyway, except in the case of faces sharing points in a <code>polyhedron</code>, so this limitation probably doesn't make the situation any worse than it already is in OpenSCAD).</p>\n\n<p>Once you have the projection, you can <code>linear_extrude</code> it in any direction you want, manipulate the result (e.g. skew with a transformation matrix), and rotate and translate it back onto the face. It should be possible to wrap up this whole operation into a <code>module</code> that operates on its child[ren].</p>\n\n<p>Another approach would be capturing a thin slice around the face manually via <code>intersection</code>, then performing a <code>hull</code> with a translate of itself, but this will only work if it's convex (otherwise <code>hull</code> will fill in the convex hull of the 2D face shape too).</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10974", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17493/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11008, "author": "Davo", "author_id": 4922, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You should be able to offset this with a <code>G54 Z-1.3</code> - <strong>if your setup accepts these gcodes</strong>. </p>\n\n<p>If you do this, always add a <code>G53</code> to the very start and just before the <code>M30</code> to clear all offsets after job finish (or in the event of a cancel, at the start of the next job).</p>\n\n<p>I'm not experienced with a wide variety of printers or firmware, but our repetier-based printers (and we use the same controls for our refurbished Fadal CNC machines) use G53-G59:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://www.cnccookbook.com/g54-g92-g52-work-offsets-cnc-g-code/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">As explained in this tutorial from cnccookbook.com</a>:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>Basic work offsets are very simple to specify: simply enter one of G54, G55, G56, G57, G58, or G59. [...] When you execute the work offset g-code, the XYZ offset will be added to all of your coordinates from that point forward.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">As detailed on Wikipedia</a>:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p><strong>G54-59</strong>: Have largely replaced position register (G50 and G92). Each tuple of axis offsets relates program zero directly to machine zero. Standard is 6 tuples (G54 to G59), with optional extensibility to 48 more via G54.1 P1 to P48.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><a href=\"http://hyrel3d.net/wiki/index.php/Gcode#G54_through_G59_-_Set_Offsets\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">And on the gcode dictionary provided by Hyrel 3D</a>:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p><strong>G54 through G59 - Set Offsets</strong>\n G54, G55, G56, G57, G58, and G59 will each store and invoke offsets in the X, Y, and/or Z axes for all subsequent moves. Any values not invoked will remain with their previous value (0 unless earlier specified otherwise).</p>\n \n <ul>\n <li>X is the offset in mm in the X axis.</li>\n <li>Y is the offset in mm in the Y axis.</li>\n <li>Z is the offset in mm in the Z axis.</li>\n </ul>\n \n <p>Here is an example:</p>\n \n <p><code>G54 X100 Y-50</code></p>\n \n <p>This command is decoded and executed by the printer as follows:</p>\n \n <p>G54 (set offsets)<br>\n - X100 (+100mm to all X coordinates)<br>\n - Y-50 (-50mm to all Y coordinates)<br></p>\n \n <p>Note that this differs from an M6, where the offsets are only applied to a SINGLE tool position.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><em>Disclaimer: I work for Hyrel 3D.</em></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11987, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This answer is intended to be a generic answer for Z-offset determination. The question is not clear on how the Z-offset has been determined. It appears as if this distance is measured, while in reality this cannot be measured.</p>\n\n<p>A touch (or a inductive or capacitive) probe uses a trigger point to determine the distance of the probe trigger point to the bed print surface. Correct installation is trivial, as is the determination of the nozzle to trigger point definition. For a touch sensor, the probing element is either stowed, fully deployed, or pushed in during leveling up to the point that the trigger point is reached and the probe stowes the rest of the pin, see figure:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png\" alt=\"BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition\"></a></p>\n\n<p>The <code>M851 Zxx.xx</code> offset is determined by lowering the nozzle beyond the trigger point until the nozzle hits a paper sheet. If the stowed position to nozzle distance is used, the distance is too large and the nozzle will dive into the bed on printing.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11007", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18553/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11057, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Let's put the parts one by one:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Wait for bed temperature being at 30 °C: <code>M190 R30</code></li>\n<li>Play Bleep for 1/5th of a second: <code>M300 S440 P200</code></li>\n<li>Wait for 1/5th of a second: <code>G4 P200</code></li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>That gives:</p>\n\n<pre><code>M190 R30\nM140 S0\nM300 S440 P200\nG4 P200\nM300 S440 P200\nG4 P200\nM300 S440 P200\nG4 P200\nM300 S440 P200\nG4 P200\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Just for 0scar:</p>\n\n<pre><code>M300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7\nG4 P400\nM300 S1661.22 P600 ;as7\nM300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7\nM300 S1396.91 P200 ;f7\nM300 S1864.66 P400 ;b7\nM300 S1244.51 P400 ;es7\nM300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7\nG4 P400\nM300 S2093.00 P400 ;c8\nM300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7\nM300 S1396.91 P200 ;f7\nM300 S2217.46 P400 ;des8\nM300 S2093.00 P400 ;c8\nM300 S1661.22 P400 ;as7\nM300 S1396.91 P400 ;f7\nM300 S2093.00 P400 ;c8\nM300 S2793.83 P400 ;f8\nM300 S1244.51 P400 ;es7\nM300 S1244.51 P200 ;es7\nM300 S1046.50 P400 ;c7\nM300 S1567.98 P400 ;g7\nM300 S1396.91 P1600 ;f7\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11121, "author": "jæk", "author_id": 18718, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18718", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Trish's version is good but wait for bed temperature being at 30 °C (<code>M190 R30</code>) before setting the temperature to 0 °C (<code>M140 S0</code>)</p>\n<p>So this is my version:</p>\n<pre><code>G91 ;relative positioning\nG1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure\nG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more\nG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way\nG1 Y150 F5000 ;move completed part out\nM84 ;steppers off\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nM190 R30 ;waits until cooling to 30 °C\nM300 S300 P1000 ;beep\nM300 S300 P1000 ;beep\nM300 S300 P1000 ;beep\nM300 S300 P1000 ;beep\nM104 S0 ;extruder heater off\nM140 S0 ;heated bed heater off \n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11056", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11135, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You need to enable the constant <code>Z_SAFE_HOMING</code> (like: <code>#define Z_SAFE_HOMING</code>) in your <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">printer configuration file</a> (if you're using Marlin firmware that is). This will move the nozzle to the middle of the plate prior to lowering the nozzle by default:</p>\n\n<pre><code>#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).\n #define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).\n#endif\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11136, "author": "Mayoogh Girish", "author_id": 17500, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17500", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Use <code>Z Safe Homing</code> to avoid homing with a Z probe outside the bed area</p>\n\n<p>According to Marlin firmware with this feature enabled:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still\nenabled.</li>\n<li>If stepper drivers time out, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing.</li>\n<li>Move the Z probe (or nozzle) to a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axes (G28).</li>\n<li>Prevent Z homing when the Z probe is outside the bed area.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>To Enable Z SAFE HOMING, In the <code>configuration.h</code> file search (Ctrl+F) for <code>#define Z_SAFE_HOMING</code>. By default, it will be disabled to enable it just uncomment \nthe line</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/5KfmU.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/5KfmU.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11134", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18761/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11149, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>According to the <a href=\"https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1ab6p2s8j61w6q/Marlin.rar?dl=0\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">link to the fork of Marlin</a> you need to be sure that a bootloader is present before flashing, see <a href=\"https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1ab6p2s8j61w6q/Marlin.rar?dl=0&amp;file_subpath=%2FMarlin%2Fpins_MELZI_WYH.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">pins_MELZI_WYH.h</a>:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n<pre>/**\n * Melzi (WYH) pin assignments\n *\n * The WYH-128 board needs a bootloader installed before Marlin can be uploaded.\n * If you don't have a chip programmer you can use a spare Arduino plus a few\n * electronic components to write the bootloader.\n *\n * See http://www.instructables.com/id/Burn-Arduino-Bootloader-with-Arduino-MEGA/\n */</pre>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>From this same pins layout file you can find hints to the usage of the <code>REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER</code> display:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n<pre>// For the stock M18 use the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER\n// option for the display in Configuration.h</pre>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>Maybe you can use that one instead of the \"Mini VIKI\". Though, an internet search, does hint to the \"Mini VIKI\" being the correct display for this printer, but it does look different from other Mini VIKI displays.</p>\n\n<p>Note that in the <a href=\"https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1ab6p2s8j61w6q/Marlin.rar?dl=0&amp;file_subpath=%2FMarlin%2FConfiguration.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration.h</a>, by default this display is not enabled as can be seen:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n<pre>// RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller\n// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller\n//\n//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER\n</pre>\n</blockquote>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14871, "author": "Jakub Perička", "author_id": 25424, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25424", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I know this is a closed and already answered question, but for anybody having an Alfawise EX8 and wanting to update the firmware, I've changed some things in the Marlin bugfix-1.1.x version, so that it now works perfectly with this printer. You can find it <a href=\"https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QdZ8sDM-sSaSmGTotOO53IB8hTDuy6Yw/view?usp=sharing\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">here</a>. The issue with the display is in the file ultralcd_st7565_u8glib_VIKI.h. The Alfawise EX8 version contains added functions like contrast adjustments and addressing offset, which is not present in the Marlin vanilla version. Also, the original Alfawise firmware grabbed 93% of RAM for global variables, which lead to unstability and in my case to spliting screen and other issues. Now there are only 46% allocated. I suspect the SD alpha sorting of this, as you can clearly see in the advanced config, that it creates an array of more than 200 instances. 37B each. Sooo since I don't usually hoard gcode files on my SD card, I disabled the sorting completelly. Feel free to make adjustments to your own taste!\nWish you luck and many successful prints! :)</p>\n<p>EDIT: If you are still experiencing glithes with the LCD, try separating the LCD data cable from the extruder cables. I didn't. My bad. Also, don't add capacitors between power inputs. Caused more problems than it solved and yes, I know how to connect an electrolytic capacitor. The firmware is fully functional, working with a MightyCore bootloader inside. There was an issue with the SD print abort function. In the bugfix version, there is a gcode function added to abort SD print and it somehow doesn't work too well with the LCD option. So I removed the gcode from Marlin_main.cpp and brought some things from the original firmware to get it working. Also since the SD was really slow, I had to re-enable the alpha sorting using RAM, but decreased the array size to 30 instances. For the memory it means, that right now it is at 89% Flash and 39% RAM usage. Enjoy! :)</p>\n<p>BTW: For anyone saying that you cannot print good prints on this printer, I just printed tha Maker's Muse Gauge and clearance test model, and got it moving completely! That's pretty awesome for a printer that cost me less than 150€.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 19076, "author": "Simondft", "author_id": 33445, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33445", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I have the same problem.</p>\n<p>I think it is not a bootloader problem because the screen is all blue but machine can work with serial connexion. I tried to use the new Jakub's file but it doesn't work either.</p>\n<p>I found new type of screen for EX8 on Marlin V2 called &quot;WYH_L12864_LCD&quot; - Has anyone tried this solution?</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11145", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18783/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11192, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p><a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6968/slicer-line-width-vs-extrusion-multiplier-for-layer-adhesion\">You are not taking into account die swell</a>.</p>\n\n<p>When printing with a 3D printer hot plastic is forced through a nozzle, which leads to the expansion of the material. The result is, that with 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.4 mm intended line width, the material will actually deposit some fraction of a millimeter wider. In your test case, that is 0.22%. If you'd print a double-sized test piece, I expect 0.11%, and in case of a half-sized 0.44% - in other words, it is a static offset.</p>\n\n<p>Because of this, it is usually better to demand wider lines than the nozzle is, forcing the die swell effect to become negligible in the wider line. I managed this with about 110% of the nozzle width on my machines.</p>\n\n<p>Further Reading: <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6965/why-is-it-conventional-to-set-line-width-nozzle-diameter\">Why is it conventional to set line width &gt; nozzle diameter?</a></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11204, "author": "Abel", "author_id": 18883, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18883", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There are several ways to try and adjust for this effect of squashing the material, which is ultimately about having enough space for the material you lay down.</p>\n\n<p>As mentioned:\nYou can try to pre-scale models (not very effective as a general solution because it is a function of the model and how many adjacent layers your material is forcing)</p>\n\n<p>You can up the line width.</p>\n\n<p>If your software allows, you can input a slightly larger filament diameter to lay a bit less material. (Wanted to stress this one as it's been pretty useful for me)</p>\n\n<p>If you are intentionally undershooting the volume by some percentage via the filament diameter, it may help to play with the layer height to control the end result of the line's cross section.</p>\n\n<p>I've had good results with a combination of the latter three (basically comes down to calibrating the printer to get settings for your desired material spool, and level of detail -> sizes of line and layer for the print)</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11213, "author": "Hacky", "author_id": 4708, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4708", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Cura has a fixed offset called \"horizontal expansion\", which can be set negatively. This way you can hardcode a -0.1mm offset for example. It worked for me where holes got too small and pegs got too thick. </p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11186", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18852/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11229, "author": "Mick", "author_id": 3953, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>It sounds like you have \"Origin at center\" checked in your slicer's printer definition. That is generally only used with delta printers. Most Cartesian printers have the origin at the front-left corner of the build plate. Uncheck \"Origin at center\" and re-slice.</p>\n\n<p>Providing that you have set up your slicer with the build plate dimensions and origin correctly defined, your models will be printed where the slicer shows them in the preview. You can rearrange the models before you slice, of course.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11233, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>STL files contain an origin. However, this is totally ignored when generating G-code, the slicer chooses the origin based on settings. </p>\n\n<p>G-code itself is a string of commands. One of these <code>G28</code> calls for the origin of the machine to be found by moving mechanically to this position. Usually, it is all formatted to take this or the power-up position as 0 and then moves relative to that. It always moves in reference to the last position, or this 0 (absolute mode).</p>\n\n<p>.x3d is an XML type of file that describes a 3D model. It reformats G-code to be read by different types of machines. It too only moves with reference to the last position, taking the position on powerup as 0 to move against unless homed.</p>\n\n<h2>Convention</h2>\n\n<p>The convention for CNC is, that the front-top-left corner of the workpiece is to be <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{0;0;0\\}$</span> as the origin for the <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right-hand_rule\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">right-hand-rule</a>. CNC then usually operates in a purely positive XY area and only works in negative Z, which is fitting for cutting. It doesn't preclude negative areas as to achieve cuts, going into the negative room is sometimes mandatory.</p>\n\n<p>Taking this convention to 3D printing puts the front-left(-bottom) corner of the build plate (volume) to be the origin, because of the right-hand rule: The coordinate room is then strictly positive in XYZ (right as X, back for Y, up for Z), all absolute, strictly positive coordinates within the positive build volume can be moved to. However, instead of allowing negative coordinates, 3D printing does not allow any coordinates outside of the build volume that is ranged from 0 to the maxima set in the firmware.</p>\n\n<p>This convention fails for Delta printers, which pretty much extrapolate the heights of the individual steppers via trigonometric calculations from cylinder coordinates <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{ r ; \\phi ; z\\}$</span> - radius, an angle of 0° to 360° and the Z-coordinate. In this coordinate room, math gets much easier putting 0 into the center of the build plate, which is circular; The transformation to cartesian coordinates is <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{ r \\cos(\\phi) ; r\\sin(\\phi) ; z\\}$</span>; the inverse transformation from cartesian to cylinder coordinates is somewhat more complex and <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polar_coordinate_system#Converting_between_polar_and_Cartesian_coordinates\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">uses case differentiation.</a>.</p>\n\n<h2>Error</h2>\n\n<p>Let's say the build plate has dimensions <span class=\"math-container\">$a$</span> and <span class=\"math-container\">$b$</span> and the corner with the green clip is <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{0;0;0\\}$</span>. The item is sliced to the position <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{a/2 ; b/2\\}$</span> of the bed. It appears at <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{a ; b/2\\}$</span> and <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{a/2 ; b\\}$</span> respectively. This hints that the center of the bed is somehow taken as one of the coordinates.</p>\n\n<p>If the corner without the clip is assumed as <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{0;0;0\\}$</span>, then X should be to the right, Y to the front following the right-hand-rule. To see if the coordinates might be skewed, the following command snippet would be useful. Please execute them one by one.</p>\n\n<pre><code>G28 ; home\nG1 Z5 ; lift off the bed 5 mm to prevent accidental collisions\nG1 X50 F500 ; move 50 mm to positive X - in case of back-right corner home this is to the LEFT\nG1 Y50 F500 ; move to what ends up 50 50 5 - in case of back-right corner home this is to the FRONT\n</code></pre>\n\n<h3>Fixing</h3>\n\n<p>The problem is <em>probably not</em> the slicer but most likely the firmware defining either the movement axis or the home wrong (either the wrong corner is chosen or the movement axis are defined incorrectly) on the printer. It seems to be totally messed up and should be reflashed with a fresh copy.</p>\n\n<p>It would be a good chance to learn by taking a Blanco variant of marlin and adjusting it to the own printer by chucking in the dimensions into <code>configuration.h</code> and starting from there.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11243, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>First of all, the firmware determines where your origin of the printer is. This implies that you need to properly set bed dimensions and offset values from the end stop switches in the firmware (usually not necessary out-of-the-box, but important when a newer or different firmware version is uploaded). These offsets determine where the origin of the bed plate is located. For Marlin firmware it is very common to have the origin specified at the front left corner (when facing the printer). From the <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L765\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">configuration of Marlin</a> we find that by definition the origin is in the front-left corner (note that this can be rotated 180 degrees in certain printers, so the aft-right):</p>\n\n<pre>\n * +-- BACK ---+\n * | |\n * L | (+) P | R\n * E | | I\n * F | (-) N (+) | G\n * T | | H\n * | (-) | T\n * | |\n * O-- FRONT --+\n * (0,0)\n</pre>\n\n<p><strong>How do I find the physical origin of the printer?</strong><br>\nThis can be tested by instructing the head/nozzle to go to e.g. (0, 0, 15) using a <a href=\"/q/10573\">terminal/console</a> or a simple G-code file with a move to that coordinate that you print from SD card (e.g. <code>G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500</code>); <em>note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!</em>. When this is performed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but this may be different depending on the firmware settings or firmware brand.</p>\n\n<p>Next step is to configure the slicer as such that this coincides with the actual origin. Incorrect slicer settings can cause the slicer to assume the origin is at a different position than your actual position. In Ultimaker Cura, the \"Origin at center\" is notoriously known for this when the physical origin is not in the center, but in a corner.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11259, "author": "zipzit", "author_id": 5014, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5014", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>So it turns out there are elements from each of the previous answers that make sense here, but its not a clear picture. I've spent a whole lot of time trying to make sense of this. I also upgraded my firmware to <a href=\"https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Sailfish.</a> </p>\n\n<p>For the MakerBot Replicator (or FastForge Creator) family of 3d printers, the origin of the build plate is NOT at any of the corners, its right in the center of the build plate. Reference <a href=\"https://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/parameters-home-offsets.html#x20-630004.1\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">here.</a> </p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>4.1 Home Offsets:<br>\n By convention, <strong>the center of the build platform</strong> is assumed to be the point (0,0,0) in XYZ space. The X, Y, and Z <strong>home offsets</strong> tell the printer the location of the X, Y, and Z <strong>endstops</strong> in relation to the build platform’s center.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>Looks like this:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2YlJ.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2YlJ.png\" alt=\"Center of build plate is origin\"></a></p>\n\n<p>And it would appear that most other 3D printers are not using this convention. Sigh. From my testing, the main control of print location is within the G-Code generated by the slicer. The tool I was using, Slic3r does give one a chance to correct that\nadjustment. You have to go to top menu <code>Settings --&gt; Printer Settings --&gt; Size and Coordinates (Bed Shape) --&gt; Set</code> to get a nice popup visual tool. See below.</p>\n\n<p>Unfortunately the default setting is accurate for the overall bed size, but is a fail for the origin location on the bed. The default origin is set at 0,0, in the corner. Ouch. Big ouch. The origin needs to be located right in the center of the build plate (to be consistent with the firmware controlling the print for this family of printers). It <strong>should</strong> look like this:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXV61.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXV61.png\" alt=\"print bed origin setup\"></a></p>\n\n<p>Note, when you tell the printer to go to 'home' it doesn't go to origin (0,0,0) it goes to the endstops. </p>\n\n<pre><code> G68 X0 Y0 F500 ; Perform Homing Routine\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>So as long as you understand the quirks of these printers things will work out. You have to ensure offsets are set accurately in firmware config files. (Replicator / Sailfish) And you have to indicate the correct center location to the slicer program. I will say the advice given here was of some help in understanding this. Many thanks. I'm posting here in case others using the Replicator or FastForge Creator series of printers is having troubles centering their prints on the build plate. </p>\n\n<p>Additional info for anybody using a MakerBot Replicator or Flashforge Creator series printer with Slic3r. I wanted to add my custom G-code stuff. The default Slic3r stuff definitely did not work. </p>\n\n<p>Printer Settings --> Custom G-Code --> Start G-Code</p>\n\n<pre><code>M103 ; Turn all extruders off, Extruder Retraction\nG21 ; set units to mm\nG90 ; Use absolute coordinates\n(**** begin homing ****)\nG162 X Y F2500 ; home XY axes to maximum stops\nG161 Z F1100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop\nG92 Z-5 ; Set Position Z =-5mm\nG1 Z0.0 ; move Z to \"0\"\nG161 Z F100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop slowly\nM132 X Y Z A B ; Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis\n ; Loads the axis offset of the current home position from the EEPROM and waits for the buffer to empty.\nG90 ; Use absolute coordinates\nG1 X0 Y0 Z50 F3300.0 ; move to waiting position near center of build plate\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Printer Settings --> Custom G-Code --> End G-Code</p>\n\n<pre><code>M109 S0 T0 ; Cool down the build platform\nM104 S0 T0 ; Cool down the Right Extruder\nM104 S0 T1 ; Cool down the Left Extruder\nM73 P100 ; End build progress\nG0 Z150 ; Send Z axis to bottom of machine\nM18 ; Disable steppers\nG162 X Y F2500 ; Home XY endstops\nM18 ; Disable stepper motors\nM70 P30 ; We &lt;3 Making Things! Yipee, you made it...\n; display message above for 30 seconds\nM72 P1 ; Play Ta-Da song\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>One other thing I do with Slic3r. I print a single loop of print on the periphery of a phantom skirt. I do this as a printer head clean extrude exercise. </p>\n\n<p>Print Settings --> Skirt and Brim --> Skirt --> Loops (minimum): 1, Distance from object: 6mm, Skirt height: 1 This works well. I do this in lieu of the G-code startup used in ReplicatorG software (which went to the lower left hand corner, and did this odd 4mm extrude exercise, with odd timing...) The skirt thing works just fine. </p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11228", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5014/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11229, "author": "Mick", "author_id": 3953, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>It sounds like you have \"Origin at center\" checked in your slicer's printer definition. That is generally only used with delta printers. Most Cartesian printers have the origin at the front-left corner of the build plate. Uncheck \"Origin at center\" and re-slice.</p>\n\n<p>Providing that you have set up your slicer with the build plate dimensions and origin correctly defined, your models will be printed where the slicer shows them in the preview. You can rearrange the models before you slice, of course.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11233, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>STL files contain an origin. However, this is totally ignored when generating G-code, the slicer chooses the origin based on settings. </p>\n\n<p>G-code itself is a string of commands. One of these <code>G28</code> calls for the origin of the machine to be found by moving mechanically to this position. Usually, it is all formatted to take this or the power-up position as 0 and then moves relative to that. It always moves in reference to the last position, or this 0 (absolute mode).</p>\n\n<p>.x3d is an XML type of file that describes a 3D model. It reformats G-code to be read by different types of machines. It too only moves with reference to the last position, taking the position on powerup as 0 to move against unless homed.</p>\n\n<h2>Convention</h2>\n\n<p>The convention for CNC is, that the front-top-left corner of the workpiece is to be <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{0;0;0\\}$</span> as the origin for the <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right-hand_rule\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">right-hand-rule</a>. CNC then usually operates in a purely positive XY area and only works in negative Z, which is fitting for cutting. It doesn't preclude negative areas as to achieve cuts, going into the negative room is sometimes mandatory.</p>\n\n<p>Taking this convention to 3D printing puts the front-left(-bottom) corner of the build plate (volume) to be the origin, because of the right-hand rule: The coordinate room is then strictly positive in XYZ (right as X, back for Y, up for Z), all absolute, strictly positive coordinates within the positive build volume can be moved to. However, instead of allowing negative coordinates, 3D printing does not allow any coordinates outside of the build volume that is ranged from 0 to the maxima set in the firmware.</p>\n\n<p>This convention fails for Delta printers, which pretty much extrapolate the heights of the individual steppers via trigonometric calculations from cylinder coordinates <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{ r ; \\phi ; z\\}$</span> - radius, an angle of 0° to 360° and the Z-coordinate. In this coordinate room, math gets much easier putting 0 into the center of the build plate, which is circular; The transformation to cartesian coordinates is <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{ r \\cos(\\phi) ; r\\sin(\\phi) ; z\\}$</span>; the inverse transformation from cartesian to cylinder coordinates is somewhat more complex and <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polar_coordinate_system#Converting_between_polar_and_Cartesian_coordinates\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">uses case differentiation.</a>.</p>\n\n<h2>Error</h2>\n\n<p>Let's say the build plate has dimensions <span class=\"math-container\">$a$</span> and <span class=\"math-container\">$b$</span> and the corner with the green clip is <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{0;0;0\\}$</span>. The item is sliced to the position <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{a/2 ; b/2\\}$</span> of the bed. It appears at <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{a ; b/2\\}$</span> and <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{a/2 ; b\\}$</span> respectively. This hints that the center of the bed is somehow taken as one of the coordinates.</p>\n\n<p>If the corner without the clip is assumed as <span class=\"math-container\">$\\{0;0;0\\}$</span>, then X should be to the right, Y to the front following the right-hand-rule. To see if the coordinates might be skewed, the following command snippet would be useful. Please execute them one by one.</p>\n\n<pre><code>G28 ; home\nG1 Z5 ; lift off the bed 5 mm to prevent accidental collisions\nG1 X50 F500 ; move 50 mm to positive X - in case of back-right corner home this is to the LEFT\nG1 Y50 F500 ; move to what ends up 50 50 5 - in case of back-right corner home this is to the FRONT\n</code></pre>\n\n<h3>Fixing</h3>\n\n<p>The problem is <em>probably not</em> the slicer but most likely the firmware defining either the movement axis or the home wrong (either the wrong corner is chosen or the movement axis are defined incorrectly) on the printer. It seems to be totally messed up and should be reflashed with a fresh copy.</p>\n\n<p>It would be a good chance to learn by taking a Blanco variant of marlin and adjusting it to the own printer by chucking in the dimensions into <code>configuration.h</code> and starting from there.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11243, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>First of all, the firmware determines where your origin of the printer is. This implies that you need to properly set bed dimensions and offset values from the end stop switches in the firmware (usually not necessary out-of-the-box, but important when a newer or different firmware version is uploaded). These offsets determine where the origin of the bed plate is located. For Marlin firmware it is very common to have the origin specified at the front left corner (when facing the printer). From the <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L765\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">configuration of Marlin</a> we find that by definition the origin is in the front-left corner (note that this can be rotated 180 degrees in certain printers, so the aft-right):</p>\n\n<pre>\n * +-- BACK ---+\n * | |\n * L | (+) P | R\n * E | | I\n * F | (-) N (+) | G\n * T | | H\n * | (-) | T\n * | |\n * O-- FRONT --+\n * (0,0)\n</pre>\n\n<p><strong>How do I find the physical origin of the printer?</strong><br>\nThis can be tested by instructing the head/nozzle to go to e.g. (0, 0, 15) using a <a href=\"/q/10573\">terminal/console</a> or a simple G-code file with a move to that coordinate that you print from SD card (e.g. <code>G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500</code>); <em>note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!</em>. When this is performed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but this may be different depending on the firmware settings or firmware brand.</p>\n\n<p>Next step is to configure the slicer as such that this coincides with the actual origin. Incorrect slicer settings can cause the slicer to assume the origin is at a different position than your actual position. In Ultimaker Cura, the \"Origin at center\" is notoriously known for this when the physical origin is not in the center, but in a corner.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11259, "author": "zipzit", "author_id": 5014, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5014", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>So it turns out there are elements from each of the previous answers that make sense here, but its not a clear picture. I've spent a whole lot of time trying to make sense of this. I also upgraded my firmware to <a href=\"https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Sailfish.</a> </p>\n\n<p>For the MakerBot Replicator (or FastForge Creator) family of 3d printers, the origin of the build plate is NOT at any of the corners, its right in the center of the build plate. Reference <a href=\"https://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/parameters-home-offsets.html#x20-630004.1\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">here.</a> </p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>4.1 Home Offsets:<br>\n By convention, <strong>the center of the build platform</strong> is assumed to be the point (0,0,0) in XYZ space. The X, Y, and Z <strong>home offsets</strong> tell the printer the location of the X, Y, and Z <strong>endstops</strong> in relation to the build platform’s center.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>Looks like this:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2YlJ.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2YlJ.png\" alt=\"Center of build plate is origin\"></a></p>\n\n<p>And it would appear that most other 3D printers are not using this convention. Sigh. From my testing, the main control of print location is within the G-Code generated by the slicer. The tool I was using, Slic3r does give one a chance to correct that\nadjustment. You have to go to top menu <code>Settings --&gt; Printer Settings --&gt; Size and Coordinates (Bed Shape) --&gt; Set</code> to get a nice popup visual tool. See below.</p>\n\n<p>Unfortunately the default setting is accurate for the overall bed size, but is a fail for the origin location on the bed. The default origin is set at 0,0, in the corner. Ouch. Big ouch. The origin needs to be located right in the center of the build plate (to be consistent with the firmware controlling the print for this family of printers). It <strong>should</strong> look like this:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXV61.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXV61.png\" alt=\"print bed origin setup\"></a></p>\n\n<p>Note, when you tell the printer to go to 'home' it doesn't go to origin (0,0,0) it goes to the endstops. </p>\n\n<pre><code> G68 X0 Y0 F500 ; Perform Homing Routine\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>So as long as you understand the quirks of these printers things will work out. You have to ensure offsets are set accurately in firmware config files. (Replicator / Sailfish) And you have to indicate the correct center location to the slicer program. I will say the advice given here was of some help in understanding this. Many thanks. I'm posting here in case others using the Replicator or FastForge Creator series of printers is having troubles centering their prints on the build plate. </p>\n\n<p>Additional info for anybody using a MakerBot Replicator or Flashforge Creator series printer with Slic3r. I wanted to add my custom G-code stuff. The default Slic3r stuff definitely did not work. </p>\n\n<p>Printer Settings --> Custom G-Code --> Start G-Code</p>\n\n<pre><code>M103 ; Turn all extruders off, Extruder Retraction\nG21 ; set units to mm\nG90 ; Use absolute coordinates\n(**** begin homing ****)\nG162 X Y F2500 ; home XY axes to maximum stops\nG161 Z F1100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop\nG92 Z-5 ; Set Position Z =-5mm\nG1 Z0.0 ; move Z to \"0\"\nG161 Z F100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop slowly\nM132 X Y Z A B ; Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis\n ; Loads the axis offset of the current home position from the EEPROM and waits for the buffer to empty.\nG90 ; Use absolute coordinates\nG1 X0 Y0 Z50 F3300.0 ; move to waiting position near center of build plate\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Printer Settings --> Custom G-Code --> End G-Code</p>\n\n<pre><code>M109 S0 T0 ; Cool down the build platform\nM104 S0 T0 ; Cool down the Right Extruder\nM104 S0 T1 ; Cool down the Left Extruder\nM73 P100 ; End build progress\nG0 Z150 ; Send Z axis to bottom of machine\nM18 ; Disable steppers\nG162 X Y F2500 ; Home XY endstops\nM18 ; Disable stepper motors\nM70 P30 ; We &lt;3 Making Things! Yipee, you made it...\n; display message above for 30 seconds\nM72 P1 ; Play Ta-Da song\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>One other thing I do with Slic3r. I print a single loop of print on the periphery of a phantom skirt. I do this as a printer head clean extrude exercise. </p>\n\n<p>Print Settings --> Skirt and Brim --> Skirt --> Loops (minimum): 1, Distance from object: 6mm, Skirt height: 1 This works well. I do this in lieu of the G-code startup used in ReplicatorG software (which went to the lower left hand corner, and did this odd 4mm extrude exercise, with odd timing...) The skirt thing works just fine. </p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11239", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12718/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11774, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>I've bought an SKR Pro V1.1 which is suffering from the same problem. It has actually to do with a shortcoming or design flaw (of the \"HAL\" or \"Hardware Abstraction Layer\" addressing of SPI devices) of Marlin and access to the SD card; I <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/16260\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">quote</a>:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>The problem: On board SD-Card on SKR-PRO 1.1 can't be used. </p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>After the SD card has been inserted, the firmware binary is loaded into memory, and all access to the SD card is gone. The initial connection is by hardware design of the SKR boards.</p>\n\n<p>Basically, there is a bug in the Marlin code/SKR boards preventing storing (to the SD card) any alterations after the firmware is loaded. There is a <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/pull/16260\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">PR on Marlin</a> that fixes it, but it has not been merged into Marlin yet.</p>\n\n<p>There are 2 options, </p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>Every change to the firmware has to be compiled and uploaded to the board by placing a hex (firmware.bin) on the SD card;</li>\n<li>Compile a firmware version from the sources from the fore mentioned PR.</li>\n</ol>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14791, "author": "Francis Dalmas", "author_id": 25299, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25299", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>For the SKR, to store the new Marlin definitions it is necessary to send the comand <code>M502</code> to restore to the factory settings (will use the configuration on the SD card) and send the comand <code>M500</code> to save the configurations.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11261", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18989/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11303, "author": "Mayoogh Girish", "author_id": 17500, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17500", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The outline around the actual print is called <strong>Skirts</strong>. and the random line on the left is called <strong>intro line</strong> it's not necessary you need both Skirt and intro line. The intro line can disable from custom starting gcode settings</p>\n\n<p>A skirt is an outline that surrounds your part but does not touch the part.\nThe skirt is extruded on the print bed before starting to print your model. Skirts serve a useful purpose because they help <strong>prime your extruder and establish a smooth flow of filament</strong>. Observing the skirt also allows you to <strong>detect and adjust any leveling or adhesion issues</strong> before the actual model begins printing.</p>\n\n<p>You can easily edit/disable(not recommended) those settings in Cura (or in any slicing software)\nIn you Cura navigate to <strong>Build Plate Adhesion</strong> settings</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pBQd.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pBQd.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Skirt line count:</strong> The number of skirt lines printed around the model.</li>\n<li><strong>Skirt distance:</strong> The distance between the model and the skirt.</li>\n<li><strong>Skirt minimum length:</strong> The total length of the skirt. This will\noverride the skirt line count when the minimum length is not reached\nyet.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8ews.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/P8ews.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11304, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>If the printer is printing, it is instructed to do so by the <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">G-code</a> file unless you are printing through an external software program that has extra G-code to print before your print starts. E.g. in OctoPrint print server it is possible to execute G-code before the print starts.</p>\n<h2>Left line = Priming</h2>\n<p>The <strong>straight line on the left</strong> is typically <strong>used to prime the printer nozzle to get the filament flow starting</strong>, this is typically seen in <a href=\"https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">PrusaSlicer</a> (Prusa's fork of Open Source toolpath generator for 3D printers <a href=\"https://github.com/slic3r\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Slic3r</a>). <em><strong>This straight line is called priming line, purge line or intro line</strong></em>, and is typically (but not necessarily) printed outside or at the edge of the bed area. Furthermore, a prime line print routine will catch errant nozzle ooze, test extrusion (it is the first indication if the nozzle to bed distance is correct; if not you can abort with minimal material loss) and perform a final wipe action to avoid stringing between the prime line and start of the print. Note that this straight prime line is not a standard option in a <em>custom</em> profile of Cura, so this was part of the Ender-3 Preset you imported or possibly you have copied a starting G-code that includes this prime line.</p>\n<p>A typical set of G-code lines to create a prime/purge/intro line is found in your start G-code and could look similar to:</p>\n<pre>\nG1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area\nG92 E0.0\nG1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line\nG1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line\nG92 E0.0\n</pre>\n<p>After slicing your object, you will find such lines in the generated G-code file, but they are not displayed in the preview. Further information can be found in <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6355/writing-g-code-swiping-at-start-of-print\">Writing G-code : swiping at start of print</a></p>\n<h2>Equidistant line = Skirt</h2>\n<p>The <strong>lines at distance from the print</strong> object <strong>is called the &quot;skirt&quot;</strong>, the skirt is an option found under the &quot;Build Plate Adhesion&quot; options in your slicer. The function of the skirt is similar as described for the straight prime line, but it has additional effects that can be wanted. It also shows fairly fast if the bed is unleveled as a whole or if the bed is greasy. Please look into: <a href=\"/q/20\">&quot;What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?\n&quot;</a>.</p>\n<p>Note that it is usually superfluous to use both the prime/purge/intro line and the skirt, both have a similar function. The benefit of the skirt is that you can configure it within the slicer (e.g. length of the printed skirt, height to use as a shield for draft or ooze and distance to product). The downside is, that a skirt limits the useable build area by the distance and width of the skirt.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11611, "author": "Isaac", "author_id": 19534, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19534", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I also have the Ender 3 (pro) and have been getting annoyed by the intro line / priming line on the left of the print area, since I find it difficult to clean off the print bed. I've now found a way to disable it. In general I have found that the skirt is enough to prime the extruder, so the intro line doesn't really appear to be necessary (from what I've seen so far). Although for very small prints the skirt might not be big enough to fully prime the extruder (but this hasn't been the case for anything I've printed so far).</p>\n\n<p>The intro/priming line is part of the \"Start G-Code\" in the Ender 3 profile in Cura (I'm using version 4.4). Here's how you can disable it:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><p>From the Settings menu, select \"Printer\" and then \"Manage Printers\".</p></li>\n<li><p>Click the \"Machine Settings\" button. </p></li>\n<li><p>Expand the window under \"Start G-code\".</p></li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Find the following 3 lines of G-code:</p>\n\n<pre><code>G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Add a <code>//</code> to the start of each line to comment it out (so the printer will ignore it)</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11668, "author": "KeithS", "author_id": 19313, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19313", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>These are features, not bugs. </p>\n\n<p>The line off to the left is the \"priming line\"; the printer is extruding a bead of material to ensure that any oozing is cleaned off of the filament tip, and that the filament is properly pressed into the hotend and flowing consistently from the nozzle, before beginning your print. Notice how plastic didn't start extruding on the \"backstroke\" until the extruder had almost reached the back of the plate? If you didn't have that priming line, that material would have been missing from your print's first layer.</p>\n\n<p>The ring around your print is the \"skirt\". The skirt also helps to prime the extruder, and allows you a quick look at your first layer printing behavior before the printer begins printing your actual part. Is your build plate level? Is the nozzle clearance correct? Is the filament adhering well to your bed prep? Are your build plate size and offsets set up properly in the slicer (or are you about to try to print off the edge of your plate)? A skirt can help you determine all these things very quickly, like before the printer starts working over the actual print area, giving you a chance to correct them on-the-fly or at least quickly cancel the print, and it uses a minimum of material to do so compared to a more substantial plate adhesion aid like a brim or raft.</p>\n\n<p>You can disable or alter the behavior of both of these in your slicer software; exactly how depends on the slicer software. </p>\n\n<p>In Ultimaker's Cura, which comes fairly highly recommended for use with Creality printers like the Ender 3, the priming line is part of the pre-print configuration script in the printer settings, and you'll need to have a working knowledge of GCode to mess with that. GCode isn't terribly difficult, but it was designed for computers to generate more than for humans to comprehend, and incorrect GCode commands in this section can cause printer firmware errors, failed prints and can even damage your printer.</p>\n\n<p>The skirt settings are part of the slicer settings for your specific print, under the \"Platform Adhesion\" section. You can typically choose to print a skirt, a brim (similar concept but it extends all the way in to the outline of the part's first layer, and helps hold the part on the plate while it prints), a raft (a more complex adhesion aid where the printer will lay down several layers of material as a foundation for the actual print), or nothing at all. You can also customize the settings of each of these to create a larger or smaller skirt or brim.</p>\n\n<p>Personally, I keep both of these print features enabled for almost all prints on my Ender 3 Pro; the only time I disable the skirt is either when I want a brim (small parts like <a href=\"http://www.3dbenchy.com/download/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">3DBenchies</a> print more reliably with a brim) or when the skirt just won't fit on the build plate (which usually means the part has a large enough footprint not to go anywhere during the print), and the only time I mess with the priming line is when I need that area of the build plate for the actual print. These features cost you maybe a penny or two in filament and can save you far more than that in frustration and wasted plastic on failed or imperfect prints.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11300", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19062/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11449, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>If you have done major revisions to the printhead by changing to another carriage, it could be that the nozzle in the carriage is not at the exact position as in the previous carriage.</p>\n\n<p>So, have you made sure that the new carriage has the appropriate values so that the nozzle is at (0, 0) when commanded to that position? Alternatively, in different wordings, this translates to: \"Is the printer printing in the center?/Are the prints centered on the build plate?\". See e.g. <a href=\"/6375\">\"How to center my prints on the build platform? (Re-calibrate homing offset)\"</a>. </p>\n\n<p>From the Thingiverse link van be read that this carriage requires an offset. The carriage design mentions a shift of the X axis: </p>\n\n<pre><code>#define X_MIN_POS -10\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Is that working for you? </p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p><em>General remarks regarding the firmware update:\nHave you also loaded all values from firmware using <code>M502</code> and then <code>M500</code>? (if <code>M500</code> commands are enabled). Also, <a href=\"/a/6200\">Skynet3D is obsolete!</a>, use Marlin instead!</em></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11453, "author": "Anteino", "author_id": 19290, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19290", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Do you have eeprom enabled? Because if you do, you can change configuration.h all you want but it's always gonna use the values from eeprom. I advise you to install repetier and change the eeprom values with that. Or maybe you can use the display if you have one.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11435", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19250/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11474, "author": "user77232", "author_id": 12857, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>If you want to use Extruder heater and thermistor 2 as a hotbed driver, then you will need to get an external mosfet, since I doubt that the extruder heater mosfet will be able to handle the required current. Then in your slicer, just remap the bed from BED to E2</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11481, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p><em>Although it appears to be a RAMPS compatible board as described in <a href=\"/a/11477\">this <strong>now deleted</strong> answer</a>, <strong>it is not using a RAMPS pin configuration</strong>.</em> </p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p>To fix this in the firmware, this requires an upload of newly configured firmware to the board. See e.g. question: \"<a href=\"/q/5848\">How to upload firmware to reprap printer?</a>\". For Marlin firmware (which is also loaded at the factory) You need to assign the correct board number or constant name (amongst several other things) in the <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration.h</a> file. Note that this is \"clearly\" described by the manufacturer <a href=\"http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560A/GT2560A%2B\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">here</a>.</p>\n\n<p>From factory, a version of 1.1.X is loaded note that version 1.1.9 is the last of the 1.x branch, the default is now version 2.x.</p>\n\n<p>From the <a href=\"http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">manufacturer of your board</a> you find that:</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define MOTHERBOARD 7\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>needs to be set. Note that using number is old, nowadays you would use a constant. For board number <code>7</code> this is the constant defined as <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/core/boards.h#L73\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>BOARD_ULTIMAKER</code></a>. Note that in version 2.x this number is now 1117, so the preferred usage is the constant name <code>BOARD_ULTIMAKER</code>!</p>\n\n<p>Specifically for your board, the Configuration.h file should contain:</p>\n\n<pre>\n#ifndef MOTHERBOARD\n #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_ULTIMAKER\n#endif\n</pre>\n\n<p>The pin arrangement used by this board is found in <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/ramps/pins_ULTIMAKER.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>pins_ULTIMAKER.h</code></a>.</p>\n\n<p>In this pin file you need to swap the pin numbers that identify the bed and the second extruder (<code>E1</code>) thermistor pin. In this file change:</p>\n\n<pre>\n//\n// Heaters / Fans\n//\n#define HEATER_0_PIN 2\n#define HEATER_1_PIN 3\n#define HEATER_BED_PIN 4\n</pre>\n\n<p>to: </p>\n\n<pre>\n//\n// Heaters / Fans\n//\n#define HEATER_0_PIN 2\n#define HEATER_1_PIN 4 // or -1\n#define HEATER_BED_PIN 3\n</pre>\n\n<p>Note that it could be that the <code>E1</code> heater output may not be designed to take the high current load the bed requires (depends on the traces on the board and the used MOSFET; with respect to the MOSFET, <a href=\"http://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560A/GT2560A%2B\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">the manufacturer states</a> that:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>3 55Amp MOSFET (with LED indicator, the actual output is restricted by the PCB board and the connector), all 3 MOSFET are equipped with heat sink to ensure sufficient heat dissipation and stable operation</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>, implying that the MOSFETs are identical). It is therefore advised to use an external MOSFET module. This will keep the high currents away from your printer board. Such a module looks like:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMcjA.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/aMcjA.jpg\" alt=\"MOSFET module\"></a></p>\n\n<p>You need to wire the second extruder heater leads to the white cable, the power and the bed leads use screw terminals and are clearly labeled.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11472", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19321/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11719, "author": "Steve061", "author_id": 19503, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19503", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Two things:</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>Did you bring the bed up to operating temperature to do the levelling (manual or automatic). The metal &amp; glass will expand/warp at different levels depending on temp.</li>\n<li>Check your G-code to make sure it is not doing a <code>G28</code> (auto home). That turns off auto-levelling. If it is there you can add:</li>\n</ol>\n\n<pre>\nG28 ;Home\nM420 S1 ; turn levelling on\nM501 ; reload your last-saved bed levelling from EEPROM\n</pre>\n\n<p>This assumes you saved the results from your auto-levelling with <code>M500</code>:</p>\n\n<pre><code>G29 ; Automatic Bed Levelling\nM500 ; save the bed levelling data to EEPROM\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 15527, "author": "Robert", "author_id": 16902, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16902", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>This turned out to be a problem with the tightness of the rollers at the left and right sides of the X-axis gantry (that roll up and down the Z rails).</p>\n<p>Z-axis motion is driven by a single stepper motor on the left side, so the rollers have to be just the right amount of tight to keep the right side in sync. If the right side is tighter or looser than the left then it lags behind, which gives the gantry a slight slant which changes as it goes up and down.</p>\n<p>If the gantry is changing pitch throughout the print, no amount of bed leveling will help. Even auto-leveling is worthless, because the readings the BLTouch takes become immediately out of sync with the gantry as soon as it moves again.</p>\n<p>The solution is to adjust the eccentric nuts in the rollers on the left and right. The best description I could find is that they need to be just tight enough that there's some resistance if you roll the top wheel with your finger, but loose enough that you can roll it without forcing the gantry up and down.</p>\n<p>I ended up putting a magnetic digital level on top of the gantry rail so I could see exactly how much its incline changed. Send gcode to slide it up and down, then adjust the eccentric nuts a little bit, then repeat. Once I got it so the level didn't change, I re-leveled the bed and printed a beautiful first layer.</p>\n<p>That was almost a year ago and it's been working ever since. I've had to re-adjust the eccentric nuts periodically when things start to get off, probably due to thermal expansion when the weather changes.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11673", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16902/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 13998, "author": "user18181", "author_id": 21759, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21759", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I dont know if you managed to solve this but if not I was facing the same issue and managed to do it just by searching all sketches for those parameters in Arduino IDE. They are not all in configuration.h like shown in the Teaching Tech video. Most of them are in configuration_backend.h and some in conditionals_LCD.h I used the values suggested in TT's video and it has speeded up levelling vastly.</p>\n<p>p.s. I am using the most recent version of the TH3D unified firmware on a Creality CR-10 mini</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 13999, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There are multiple ways to achieve this:</p>\n<h2>In G-code</h2>\n<p>You don't necessarily need to do that in firmware, TH3D is based on Marlin firmware and is just a monolithic implementation for most popular printers and boards that helps novice users to easily configure their printer, but in the meantime it hides other options from plain sight.</p>\n<p>Being a derivative fro Marlin firmware, the bed leveling speed in between probes can also be easily set in G-code. G-code <a href=\"https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>G29</code></a> has a speed parameter:</p>\n<p><code>S</code> : <em>Set the XY travel speed between probe points (in units/min)</em></p>\n<p>From below (TH3D firmware) can be seen that a value of 12000 mm/min will speed up and is generally safe to use.</p>\n<h2>In Marlin firmware</h2>\n<p>In Marlin firmware, the speed setting in between probes is found in <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/Configuration.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration.h</a>:</p>\n<pre><code>// X and Y axis travel speed (mm/min) between probes\n#define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000\n</code></pre>\n<h2>In TH3D firmware</h2>\n<p>In TH3D firmware this speed is buried in the <a href=\"https://github.com/houseofbugs/TH3D-Unified-U1.R2/blob/master/TH3DUF_R2/Configuration_backend.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration_backend.h</a>:</p>\n<pre><code> #if ENABLED(PROBING_MOTORS_OFF)\n #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000\n #else\n #if ENABLED(SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES) || ENABLED(TH3D_EZ300) || ENABLED(TIM_AM8)\n #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000\n #else\n #if ENABLED(EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE)\n #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 16000\n #else\n #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 12000\n #endif\n #endif\n #endif\n</code></pre>\n<p>The speed is depending on setting of the <code>PROBING_MOTORS_OFF</code> in <a href=\"https://github.com/houseofbugs/TH3D-Unified-U1.R2/blob/master/TH3DUF_R2/Configuration.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Configuration.h</a>:</p>\n<pre><code>// This will disable the XYE motors during probing. Can be useful if you have stepper motors causing interference issues with the EZABL sensor.\n#define PROBING_MOTORS_OFF\n</code></pre>\n<p>or depending on the speed settings for specific setting/sensors <code>(ENABLED(SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES) || ENABLED(TH3D_EZ300) || ENABLED(TIM_AM8)</code>:</p>\n<pre><code>// If you have issues with your machine running the faster probe setting disable the #define EZABL_FASTPROBE below.\n// DO NOTE: Most machines will work with the fast probe enabled. Use M48 to verify accuracy.\n#define EZABL_FASTPROBE\n\n// Superfast probing - Only works with the EZABL Pro Sensors\n// DO NOTE: Not all machines will work with the fast probe enabled. Use M48 to verify accuracy and make sure the Z isn't binding with the high speeds.\n//#define EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE\n</code></pre>\n<p>Basically, if you have not defined one of the following: <code>PROBING_MOTORS_OFF</code>, <code>SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES</code>, <code>TH3D_EZ300</code> or <code>TIM_AM8</code>, the <code>XY_PROBE_SPEED </code> will default to a value of 4000 (depending of the definition of <code>HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY</code>) since the constant is not defined, see <a href=\"https://github.com/houseofbugs/TH3D-Unified-U1.R2/blob/master/TH3DUF_R2/Conditionals_post.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Conditionals_post.h)</a>:</p>\n<pre><code> #ifndef XY_PROBE_SPEED\n #ifdef HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY\n #define XY_PROBE_SPEED HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY\n #else\n #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 4000\n #endif\n #endif\n</code></pre>\n<p>In Marlin you would simply change the value of the travel between probing speed whilst in TH3D you need to sort out if one of all those conditions are met. For advanced users with a slightly different printer setup, the TH3D software might be less optimal. Do note that forks of the Marlin firmware that are heavily modified always (like TH3D) lack behind the original sources; you are dependent on the implementation schedule of the fork maintainer. But, for people that have not modified their printer, have a limited knowledge of software (C/C++ development) and firmware flashing, or their modification falls in the supported options of TH3D, the monolithic TH3D might be very helpful!</p>\n<p>Most probably, your setting is overruled later.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14020, "author": "Andreas Orvik", "author_id": 21800, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21800", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I was successfull in getting my ender 5 pro bltouch to work faster. I still have some tweaking to do, and I'm a noob. I did the following in configuration_backend.h:</p>\n<p><strong>I changed #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z 4 times 60 to 20 times 60:</strong></p>\n<pre><code>#if ENABLED(EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE) &amp;&amp; DISABLED(BLTOUCH)\n #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (15*60)\n#elif ENABLED(EZABL_FASTPROBE) &amp;&amp; DISABLED(BLTOUCH)\n #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (8*60)\n#else\n #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_Z (20*60)\n#endif\n</code></pre>\n<p><strong>XY probe speed looks good, didn't have to change:</strong></p>\n<pre><code>#if ENABLED(PROBING_MOTORS_OFF)\n #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000\n #else\n #if ENABLED(SLOWER_PROBE_MOVES) || ENABLED(TH3D_EZ300) || ENABLED(TIM_AM8)\n #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 8000\n #else\n #if ENABLED(EZABL_SUPERFASTPROBE)\n #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 16000\n #else\n #define XY_PROBE_SPEED 12000\n #endif\n #endif\n #endif\n</code></pre>\n<p><strong>I commented (deactivated) this, so it probes only one time:</strong></p>\n<pre><code> //#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2\n</code></pre>\n<p><strong>I changed the folowing from 15, 10, 10</strong>:</p>\n<pre><code>#if ENABLED(BLTOUCH)\n #define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 10\n #define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 5\n #define Z_CLEARANCE_MULTI_PROBE 5\n</code></pre>\n<p>Hope this helps. Work in progress.</p>\n<p>Andy</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 18663, "author": "Daniela Aguilar", "author_id": 32494, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32494", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>There's also the option to save the mesh so that you don't have to level each time you print.</p>\n<p>First of all, using Cura or whatever you use to send commands, send:</p>\n<pre><code>M502; Reset to factory settings \nM500; Saves (so that you may start with a clean slate)\nG28; Home All\nG29; Autolevel\n</code></pre>\n<p>After running your auto bed leveling, add</p>\n<p><code>M500</code></p>\n<p>And you're done.</p>\n<p>P.S. don't forget to do this after bringing both extruder and bed up to temperature</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11684", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13327/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11711, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p><strong>The actual problem you are facing is bed adhesion</strong>, the proposed solution (in your question) shouldn't be the preferred solution to get your parts to stick to the plate/glass as plastic shrinks as it cools down. Note that a 5&nbsp;&deg;C temperature drop after the first layer usually isn't a problem, but larger temperature differences or shutting off the heat completely will cause your parts to come off the glass.</p>\n\n<p>Note that PLA requires a temperature of about 60&nbsp;&deg;C (for adhesion as this is close to the glass temperature where the plastic is soft; however, note that PLA can be printed on cold bed surfaces on suitable bed surfaces). The slate of glass is an insulator, so it is perfectly possible that you need to set the bed at a higher temperature to get 60&nbsp;&deg;C at the surface of the glass plate. When the lower layer deforms the bed temperature is too high.</p>\n\n<p>As you are using Cura, there is a plugin available called TweakAtZ, nowadays this is a default plugin. How to use this is described in <a href=\"/a/7346/\">this anser</a> (on question <a href=\"/q/7345\">\"How does one use a heat tower?\"</a>); instead of changing the hotend temperature you will need to modify the bed temperature instead (using <code>M140</code>).</p>\n\n<p><strong>To solve the actual problem</strong>, you need to prepare the glass by cleaning it properly, use a level bed with a correct initial nozzle to bed distance for <code>Z=0</code> (usually thickness of a plain paper sheet A4/Letter) and an adhesive like hairspray, glue stick or a dedicated adhesion spray like 3DLAC or Dimafix. I'm using 3DLAC for several years (for PLA and PETG; Dimafix is supposed to be more sticky at higher temperatures, so for ABS for instance) and never had any problems with adhesion on properly levelled beds. See <a href=\"/a/4045\">this answer</a> for another user's experience.</p>\n\n<p>An OctoPrint solution using event as you suggest is not recommended. This is the config.yaml, e.i. the configuration of the print server, not a print instance option file. Furthermore, there are yet no plugins that can handle additional code when the head reaches a certain (layer)height. This is pretty tricky if you use Z position detection when the head also can hop, such code should be inserted by the slicer instead.</p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p><em>Related to your question are the answers on question: <a href=\"/q/10683\">\"Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?\"</a>.</em></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11733, "author": "user77232", "author_id": 12857, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<ul>\n<li>You can manually edit the file. Look for the line that has the Z height of your choice, and insert the temp change g-code right above it.</li>\n<li>Upgrade to a real slicer like Simplify3D with has an options to set a heater temp at different layers.</li>\n<li>Preheat the bed before you print, then print with a bed temp set lower than the temp you preheated at. This will give the illusion of a temp change.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p><em>(I for one turn off my bed after the first layer, when I'm printing PLA. I also don't have proper cooling (at this time), my environment is humid (59.9%) and the ambient air temp is 31C.) - just for context</em></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11710", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16395/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11866, "author": "towe", "author_id": 13171, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The MKS GEN L board was added in Marlin release 1.1.7 .</p>\n\n<p>According to the configuration file you've linked and <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">previous Marlin releases</a>, your copy of Marlin is release 1.1.6. While all Marlin releases before 1.1.7 had \"010100\" as \"CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION\", earlier versions had less features than listed in your configuration file.</p>\n\n<p>In Marlin 2.0.x, the MKS GEN L is <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.1/Marlin/src/core/boards.h#L66\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">also</a> <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.1/Marlin/src/pins/ramps/pins_MKS_GEN_L.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">available</a>.</p>\n\n<p>Since you said it was also unavailable in 2.0.x, please provide a copy of your entire 2.0.x setup.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 11867, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 1, "selected": true, "text": "<p>As explained in the <a href=\"/a/11866/\">answer by @towe</a>, you are using an older version of the configuration file, it appears that you aren't using the latest sources from the 1.1.x and the 2.0.x trees.</p>\n\n<p>In addition to the answer, the MKS GEN L is basically a RAMPS board with RAMPS pin layout except for a few pins. The board is defined in both <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_MKS_GEN_L.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">1.1.9</a> and <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/ramps/pins_MKS_GEN_L.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">2.0.x</a> (if you scroll down you see that it includes the pin definition for a RAMPS layout: #include \"pins_RAMPS.h\"). This being said, you could get it to work in pre 1.1.7 release of Marlin if you must. Choosing a RAMPS board for <code>MOTHERBOARD</code> constant and overriding/defining <code>MOSFET_D_PIN</code> to 7, <code>X_CS_PIN</code> to 59 and <code>X_CS_PIN</code> to 63 will make the firmware work. But, it is advised to get the latest version, even Marlin 2.0.x will run fine on Arduino Mega 2560 based boards.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11859", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19927/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 11985, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>If you have managed to setup 3-point levelling, you should be able to enable bi-linear levelling in the firmware.</p>\n\n<p>From the <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/master/config/default/Configuration.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">configuration.h</a> file for Marlin firmware you can find the following options:</p>\n\n<pre>\n/**\n * Choose one of the options below to enable G29 Bed Leveling. The parameters\n * and behavior of G29 will change depending on your selection.\n *\n * If using a Probe for Z Homing, enable Z_SAFE_HOMING also!\n *\n * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT\n * Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't collinear)\n * You specify the XY coordinates of all 3 points.\n * The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.\n *\n * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR\n * Probe several points in a grid.\n * You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.\n * The result is a single tilted plane. Best for a flat bed.\n *\n * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR\n * Probe several points in a grid.\n * You specify the rectangle and the density of sample points.\n * The result is a mesh, best for large or uneven beds.\n *\n * - AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL (Unified Bed Leveling)\n * A comprehensive bed leveling system combining the features and benefits\n * of other systems. UBL also includes integrated Mesh Generation, Mesh\n * Validation and Mesh Editing systems.\n *\n * - MESH_BED_LEVELING\n * Probe a grid manually\n * The result is a mesh, suitable for large or uneven beds. (See BILINEAR.)\n * For machines without a probe, Mesh Bed Leveling provides a method to perform\n * leveling in steps so you can manually adjust the Z height at each grid-point.\n * With an LCD controller the process is guided step-by-step.\n */\n//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT\n//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR\n//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR\n//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL\n//#define MESH_BED_LEVELING\n</pre>\n\n<p>If you are using 3-point levelling you enabled constant <code>AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT</code> by removing the comment characters (<code>//</code>):</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_3POINT\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>to enable bi-linear levelling, you should remove the comment characters before constant <code>#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR</code>:</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>Definition of the grid is done by specifying how many point you want to have using constants <code>GRID_MAX_POINTS_X</code> and <code>GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y</code>:</p>\n\n<pre>\n#if EITHER(AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR, AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR)\n\n // Set the number of grid points per dimension.\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3\n #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X\n</pre>\n\n<p>The code above shows the default definition of a 9 point (3 x 3) grid.</p>\n\n<p>Note that this will only work well if the area for the sensor to reach safely is correctly defined. If the sensor is missing the build plate, you have not correctly defined the limits for the sensor. Question <a href=\"/q/8153\">\"How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?\"</a> has an <a href=\"/a/8154\">accepted answer</a> that describes how to define an area on the plate that the sensor may reach (the answer on this question also discusses Marlin 2.x).</p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<h2>In the specific case of the OP (after posting the config files)</h2>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p>From the posted configuration files your probe position can be obtained:</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 25, 55, 0 }\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>So your probe is at the right-back when facing the printer. Also your bed area attempt (commented) and the current active bed area can be obtained:</p>\n\n<pre>\n#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC\n //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT 5\n //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT 200\n //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT 55\n //#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK 200\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK MIN_PROBE_EDGE\n#endif\n</pre>\n\n<p>From these excerpts it is clear that the bed limits are incorrectly defined. </p>\n\n<p>Following the theory from <a href=\"/a/8154/\">this answer</a> the probe is only allowed to visit the following (dark red) area:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpeCz.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpeCz.png\" alt=\"Probe area for back-right probe Marlin 2.0.x\"></a></p>\n\n<p>This area is defined as:</p>\n\n<pre>\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (PROBE_OFFSET_X_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (PROBE_OFFSET_Y_FROM_EXTRUDER + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n</pre>\n\n<p>which translates to:</p>\n\n<pre>\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT (25 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_RIGHT (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_FRONT (55 + MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n #define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_BACK (MIN_PROBE_EDGE)\n</pre>\n\n<p>As seen in the commented <code>//#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT 5</code> and uncommented <code>#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE_LEFT MIN_PROBE_EDGE</code> (equals 10) left probe limits, you are at least respectively 20&nbsp; or 15&nbsp;mm short, hence the sensor is not on the plate on the left.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 20043, "author": "Gavin S.", "author_id": 35617, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35617", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Note for anyone looking at the answer above, but in 2.1.x:\nThe <code>#define</code> lines have been renamed:</p>\n<pre><code>#if PROBE_SELECTED &amp;&amp; !IS_KINEMATIC\n #define PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT PROBING_MARGIN\n #define PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT PROBING_MARGIN\n #define PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT PROBING_MARGIN\n #define PROBING_MARGIN_BACK PROBING_MARGIN\n#endif\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 20219, "author": "Diz", "author_id": 36095, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/36095", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Currently on 2.1.1 it is just</p>\n<pre><code>#define PROBING_MARGIN\n</code></pre>\n<p>On <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Configurations/blob/import-2.1.x/config/default/Configuration.h#L1500\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">line 1500</a> of <code>Configuration.h</code></p>\n<p>For example,</p>\n<pre><code>#define PROBING_MARGIN 10\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11984", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20065/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 12105, "author": "henradrie", "author_id": 14773, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14773", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Usually I just flip the connector around on the board. This causes the stepper to reverse without fiddling around with firmware.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 13747, "author": "Ryan Gaudion", "author_id": 21333, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21333", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This <a href=\"https://www.everybitelectronics.co.uk/blog/3d-printer-error-prints-reversed/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">blog post</a> shows 3 main solutions:</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>Flipping the motor cables (As suggested in the other answer)</li>\n<li>Switching the x and y-axis:\nThis may switch the direction of your y-axis depending on the way your printer is setup)</li>\n<li>Change the direction of the axis in firmware which you can see below how to do:</li>\n</ol>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>\"When the solution opens up, you will see many different files open. You need to navigate to the Configuration.h file. Within this file scroll down to the following lines of code:\"</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<pre><code>// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way. \ndefine INVERT_X_DIR true \n\ndefine INVERT_Y_DIR true \n\ndefine INVERT_Z_DIR true\n</code></pre>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>\"This is where you need to switch the values around. If they are currently true, change them to false and if they are false, change them to true. Due to the fact I was having issues with my x-Axis, I have changed the above to the following:\"</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<pre><code>// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.\n\ndefine INVERT_X_DIR false\n\ndefine INVERT_Y_DIR true \n\ndefine INVERT_Z_DIR true\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12098", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20151/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 12169, "author": "Benjamin Baker", "author_id": 20362, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20362", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I second the previous answer if running second Z motor in parallel, just split wires or buy adapter consisting of two females to one male, Z motor on most printers don't draw huge current (or at least in smaller less frequent intervals to give things time to cool). </p>\n\n<p>Erm I extruder with two temperature zones, hmmm buy a larger heating element, like a E3D Volcano or I believe they have an extreme version now, mine is rated for 40&nbsp;W+.</p>\n\n<p>Or you could use external MOSFET with separate Arduino PID.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14585, "author": "Nick Giatrakis", "author_id": 24920, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/24920", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Unfortunately, I faced the same problem. The heated chamber will not be accurate enough due to lack of PID tuning. As a result, the temp will differ up to 10 degrees celsius when the heater is on. Is a big difference that will either not dry your filament enough or in the worst scenario will melt it. You will need to enable other features in order to bypass the issue. Find below how I enabled the 2nd heater element with the exact same setup as yours. You need to define the following:</p>\n<pre><code>#define EXTRUDERS 2\n</code></pre>\n<hr />\n<p>On the following part you must change the <code>SERVO_NR</code> to <code>-1</code> otherwise you will face issues in case you are using a BLTouch, for example:</p>\n<pre><code>// A dual extruder that uses a single stepper motor\n#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER\n#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_EXTRUDER)\n #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_NR -1 \n #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1[, E2, E3]\n #if EXTRUDERS &gt; 3\n #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_E23_SERVO_NR 1\n #endif\n#endif\n\n// A dual-nozzle that uses a servomotor to raise/lower one (or both) of the nozzles\n#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE\n#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_NOZZLE)\n #define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_NR -1\n //#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_E1_SERVO_NR 1 // If two servos are used, the index of the second\n #define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1 (single servo) or lowered/raised (dual servo)\n#endif\n\n-----------------------------\n\n#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1\n\n-----------------------------\n</code></pre>\n<p>And finally, you must <code>#define PID_PARAMS_PER_HOTEND</code> in order to be able to PID tuning the 2nd heater which will be used for your inline filament dryer.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12168", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14383/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 12172, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<h1>No.</h1>\n<p>You define the Z-Value of the Nozzle to Probe offset mainly to get avoidance of collisions, but it is checked nowhere in the firmware code at all. Usually, the probe is mounted a millimeter or so above the nozzle anyway: you mount it in such a fashion that it triggers when the nozzle has the correct distance to the bed.</p>\n<p>If you alter the bed by altering the distance between the nozzle and the metal part of the bed, you might need to alter the physical position of the probe to get the printer to trigger at the correct height, but you don't necessarily need to add a Z-offset.</p>\n<p>You might, however, want to include it in the slicer for the case you want to print items in a sequence, which forces most slicers to try to do an error-avoidance pattern.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 12173, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You can define the probe offset (or better the trigger point to bed level distance) in the array definition of <code>NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET</code>, but it is not the usual and logical place to do that. Instead you position the probe higher than the nozzle and define the offset later when calibrating the bed level. A positive value is a positive offset, Z+.</p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<p>This answer is intended to be a more generic answer for Z-offset determination. The question is not clear on what kind of Z-probe is used. In case of a touch (or an inductive or a capacitive) probe, a probe trigger point defines how far the probe needs to be from the bed level (the sensor is always placed higher than the nozzle). This trigger point is a measure for the offset and used to determine the distance of the nozzle to the bed print surface (using the offset). Correct installation is trivial, as is the determination of the nozzle to trigger point definition. For a touch sensor, the probing element is either stowed, fully deployed, or pushed in during leveling up to the point that the trigger point is reached and the probe stowes the rest of the pin, see figure:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png\" alt=\"BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition\"></a></p>\n\n<p>The <code>M851 Zxx.xx</code> offset is determined by lowering the nozzle beyond the trigger point until the nozzle hits a sheet of paper. If the stowed position to nozzle distance is used, the distance is too large and the nozzle will dive into the bed on printing. A similar sketch for inductive/capacitive proximity probes can be drawn.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sGwU.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sGwU.png\" alt=\"Inductive/capacitive proximity sensor Z-offset definition\"></a></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12171", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20151/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 12190, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I have an <a href=\"https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/1010\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">open bug report/feature request</a> for this. Apparently Cura doesn't do it because some of Ultimaker's printers have underpowered power supplies that will shut off if you try to do both at the same time. I've been carrying a patch (note this is against CuraEngine not the Cura GUI) that fixes this:</p>\n\n<pre><code>diff --git a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp\nindex de3c771c..ced22017 100644\n--- a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp\n+++ b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp\n@@ -500,7 +500,7 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage&amp; stor\n const Temperature bed_temp = scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;Temperature&gt;(\"material_bed_temperature_layer_0\");\n if (bed_temp != 0)\n {\n- gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;bool&gt;(\"material_bed_temp_wait\"));\n+ gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, false);\n }\n }\n }\n@@ -547,6 +547,18 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage&amp; stor\n }\n }\n }\n+\n+ if (scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;bool&gt;(\"material_bed_temp_prepend\"))\n+ {\n+ if (scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;bool&gt;(\"machine_heated_bed\"))\n+ {\n+ const Temperature bed_temp = scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;Temperature&gt;(\"material_bed_temperature_layer_0\");\n+ if (bed_temp != 0)\n+ {\n+ gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;bool&gt;(\"material_bed_temp_wait\"));\n+ }\n+ }\n+ }\n }\n }\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 12193, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>This can be achieved with start G-code adaptations, this requires no software changes. Cura, and most slicers, have the ability to use placeholders (basically variables or maybe better: constants). These placeholders are substituted with the correct value upon slicing.</p>\n<p>To sequentially heat the bed and hotend you would need to add the following into your start G-code:</p>\n<pre>\nM117 Heating bed 1st...\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}\nM117 Heating core 2nd...\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}\n</pre>\n<p>For simultaneous heating you need to add:</p>\n<pre>\nM140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temperature to e.g. 55 °C and continue\nM104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set hot end temperature to e.g. 210 °C and continue\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temperature to reach e.g. 55 °C\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for hot end temperature to reach e.g. 210 °C\n</pre>\n<p>Note that Cura is very limited in using placeholders. E.g. Slic3r allows for arithmetic using the placeholders. The following example shows heating the bed first to the bed first layer temperature minus 10 degrees Celsius; then the hotend starts heating and heatbed starts further heating up to the final temperature. For my machine this results in the bed and hotend being at final temperature at the same time; so no time is wasted and printing can start.</p>\n<pre>\nM117 Heating bed...\nM190 S{[first_layer_bed_temperature]-10}\nM140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]\nM117 Heating core...\nM109 S[first_layer_temperature_0]\nM190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]\n</pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 16225, "author": "Luis Fernando Nascimento", "author_id": 28129, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28129", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>It is a little annoying, what <code>Cura</code> is doing for me is forcing to wait. On start G-code I have:</p>\n<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\n;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***\nM140 S60 ; start preheating the bed\nM104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend\nG28 ; home\nM190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting \nM109 S200\n;*** End Preheating ***M420 S1; Load Mesh Bed Level\n</code></pre>\n<p>But on the generated G-code I have:</p>\n<pre><code>;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.0\nM140 S60\nM105\nM190 S60\nM104 S200\nM105\nM109 S200\nM82 ;absolute extrusion mode\n; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\n;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***\nM140 S60 ; start preheating the bed\nM104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend\nG28 ; home\nM190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting \nM109 S200\n</code></pre>\n<p>In the end I'm changing it directly on G-code what is a pain</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12188", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16270/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 12190, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I have an <a href=\"https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/1010\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">open bug report/feature request</a> for this. Apparently Cura doesn't do it because some of Ultimaker's printers have underpowered power supplies that will shut off if you try to do both at the same time. I've been carrying a patch (note this is against CuraEngine not the Cura GUI) that fixes this:</p>\n\n<pre><code>diff --git a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp\nindex de3c771c..ced22017 100644\n--- a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp\n+++ b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp\n@@ -500,7 +500,7 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage&amp; stor\n const Temperature bed_temp = scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;Temperature&gt;(\"material_bed_temperature_layer_0\");\n if (bed_temp != 0)\n {\n- gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;bool&gt;(\"material_bed_temp_wait\"));\n+ gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, false);\n }\n }\n }\n@@ -547,6 +547,18 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage&amp; stor\n }\n }\n }\n+\n+ if (scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;bool&gt;(\"material_bed_temp_prepend\"))\n+ {\n+ if (scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;bool&gt;(\"machine_heated_bed\"))\n+ {\n+ const Temperature bed_temp = scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;Temperature&gt;(\"material_bed_temperature_layer_0\");\n+ if (bed_temp != 0)\n+ {\n+ gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed_temp, scene.current_mesh_group-&gt;settings.get&lt;bool&gt;(\"material_bed_temp_wait\"));\n+ }\n+ }\n+ }\n }\n }\n</code></pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 12193, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 4, "selected": true, "text": "<p>This can be achieved with start G-code adaptations, this requires no software changes. Cura, and most slicers, have the ability to use placeholders (basically variables or maybe better: constants). These placeholders are substituted with the correct value upon slicing.</p>\n<p>To sequentially heat the bed and hotend you would need to add the following into your start G-code:</p>\n<pre>\nM117 Heating bed 1st...\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}\nM117 Heating core 2nd...\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}\n</pre>\n<p>For simultaneous heating you need to add:</p>\n<pre>\nM140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temperature to e.g. 55 °C and continue\nM104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set hot end temperature to e.g. 210 °C and continue\nM190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temperature to reach e.g. 55 °C\nM109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for hot end temperature to reach e.g. 210 °C\n</pre>\n<p>Note that Cura is very limited in using placeholders. E.g. Slic3r allows for arithmetic using the placeholders. The following example shows heating the bed first to the bed first layer temperature minus 10 degrees Celsius; then the hotend starts heating and heatbed starts further heating up to the final temperature. For my machine this results in the bed and hotend being at final temperature at the same time; so no time is wasted and printing can start.</p>\n<pre>\nM117 Heating bed...\nM190 S{[first_layer_bed_temperature]-10}\nM140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]\nM117 Heating core...\nM109 S[first_layer_temperature_0]\nM190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]\n</pre>\n" }, { "answer_id": 16225, "author": "Luis Fernando Nascimento", "author_id": 28129, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28129", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>It is a little annoying, what <code>Cura</code> is doing for me is forcing to wait. On start G-code I have:</p>\n<pre><code>; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\n;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***\nM140 S60 ; start preheating the bed\nM104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend\nG28 ; home\nM190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting \nM109 S200\n;*** End Preheating ***M420 S1; Load Mesh Bed Level\n</code></pre>\n<p>But on the generated G-code I have:</p>\n<pre><code>;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.0\nM140 S60\nM105\nM190 S60\nM104 S200\nM105\nM109 S200\nM82 ;absolute extrusion mode\n; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code\nG92 E0 ; Reset Extruder\n;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***\nM140 S60 ; start preheating the bed\nM104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend\nG28 ; home\nM190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting \nM109 S200\n</code></pre>\n<p>In the end I'm changing it directly on G-code what is a pain</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12191", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20389/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 12203, "author": "Jason_55904", "author_id": 20423, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20423", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The Z stop can be loosened and moved up but it seems weird that it would need to be moved and I don't think that would fix your issue. The Z height should be the same for the auto home and printing. I auto home then disable steppers and slowly move to all 4 corners. I have caught myself resting my arm on the X axis and moving it down. If that happens I manually move the Z until it just barely presses the Z stop in when I hear the button click. I have heard some say that they got a warped bed. I wonder if that's the issue. A glass plate would be a good way to be sure or maybe using a straight edge to check.You could also double check the tightness on the wheels is just right. Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a really good setup video called \"Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips\" that has a few other tips that really helped me get set up well.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 13449, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>From the added G-code instructions you can see that the printer is instructed to go down to a height of 0.3 mm (<code>G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position</code>). If the printer nozzle is not at 0.3 mm height, there must be a Z-offset present in the firmware or incorrect placement of the endstop.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 18358, "author": "BackTrack", "author_id": 31930, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31930", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>It sounds like there’s two things that could be going wrong here:</p>\n<ol>\n<li><p>Your starting G-code has some code in it that’s making it think that you want to treat a few layers up as <code>Z0</code>. If I were you I would minimize the start G-code until you get this sorted out. A quick fix would Be to add the following code to the end of your starting G-code:</p>\n<pre><code>G28: Homes all axis\nG28 Z0: Homes the Z-axis\nG29: Auto-bed-leveling (optional if you’ve already attached a leveling device)\nG1 Z3 F5000: Raises the Z position up 3 mm relative to where it was (G1 tells the machine to move, Z3 tells it how much to move and along which axis, F5000 is the speed of movement)\nG92 Z0.3: Treats the current position as Z = 0.3 (applying an offset of -0.3 and creating a sort of false home for the Z-axis). \n</code></pre>\n<p>Any commands made after this simple code will assume the print bed is lower than what it actually is (to account for any original gap between the nozzle and the print bed). If you want to have the nozzle raised, you’ll have to insert a negative value after the <code>G92</code> command.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>You have a Z-offset set in your slicer software. This is a super easy fix if you find that you have one set, and it’s usually just because the slicer is using the preset for an Ender 3 with a glass bed. I would try setting it back to 0 if there is one already and try the G-code above.</p>\n<p>Even if the starting G-code I provided doesn’t solve your problem you should still find the Z-Offset setting in your slicer software and set it down -0.1 mm at a time until your printer starts printing in the correct Z-Axis position.</p>\n</li>\n</ol>\n<p>Here’s an All3DP article that helped a ton when I first got started: <a href=\"https://m.all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-z-offset/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Ender 3 (Pro) Z Offset: How to Adjust It</a></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12201", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20418/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 13394, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Since you've said you can feel a problem at the nozzle pushing it through manually, and since you say it goes away for a while after cleaning, you probably have somewhere that molten filament is getting into that it's not supposed to, then solidifying and jamming. Check that the cooling fan for the heatsink on the coldend is working, and that the PTFE tube is properly installed all the way through the heat break and butted up against the nozzle with no gaps or irregularities, and that the pressure fitting is holding it firmly and not allowing it to back out. If you can't find anything wrong, it's possible that something is just defective/damaged inside the hotend assembly.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 13442, "author": "vale.maio2", "author_id": 20065, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20065", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>So, after some day of yelling and disassembling, I figured out what was the issue. As many were suggesting, I indeed had an issue with the tubing lifting from the nozzle. it was lifting, so PLA was slowly infiltrating where it wasn't supposed to be to the point it created a blockage, resulting in skipping.</p>\n\n<p>However, no amount of cleaning and reseating the tubing got rid of it. i've also changed, again, nozzle, tubing and pneumatic fittings to higher quality ones to no avail.</p>\n\n<p>I got absolutely fed up and bought a direct drive conversion kit. One of the cheap ones, reusing most of the stock hardware, including stock extruder and gears. The idea, for me, behind it was that the mass of the extruder, and the much shorter length of tubing, meant that the tubing had no space to move around and let the PLA out.</p>\n\n<p>It looks like it's working so far, I'm 6 hours in on a 10 hours print with no skipping at all. I also managed to ease the pressure that the extruder arm excise on the filament, so it's not being chewed anymore and I'm not seeing any PLA shavings so far.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 13446, "author": "Marek Urbański", "author_id": 20819, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20819", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I my case helps reducing printing speed, from 100% to 80%.\nLooks like the filament is cooling noozle to fast.\nIn some large prints at the begining (on first layers) I'm reducing speed to 60%.\nThis looks like the background temperature is not the same in the center and at the borders.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14228, "author": "Rob Atkinson", "author_id": 23209, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23209", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Lot's of factors can cause this behaviour. Firstly check there are no knots in the reel - that can lead to the reel locking up. Second check the PLA temperature and if dual wall (a lot of material being put out) check that the print head is not knocking (running over the top of) excess material due to oozing. I found that after swapping out the print head HE and extruder for new, that the root cause was that I had oozing and was not using the nozzle fan. This led to the head bumping over lumps in longitudinal runs (you could hear a thud), which led to the head getting gradually backed up and the reservoir in the head back-filling with hot PLA. This then created back-pressure into the Bowden tube and then up to the extruder, which is trying to push material into an already full reservoir (head + Bowden). And.. that leads to the cog wheel in the extruder fighting against the pent up flow in the HE. The solution was to put the fan on and that stopped the ooze blobs. Because I had elected to print a fairly heavy object, the wall count was causing an excess build up and my extra-prime setting, although good for thin wall printing, together with the 6mm retract, wasn't right for thick-wall printing. So I could have turned down the extra-prime a bit, but the nozzle fan was the best and easiest option. You have to think about the whole material flow process and how the system is wired: flow-wise. It's a fancy glue gun when you think about it. So you have to be mindful of all of the parameters that can affect material flow.</p>\n<p>Having replaced the HE was actually a good idea, as I can now easily prime the head just by pushing material through by hand and feeling the flow. If you are having to push really hard, that means there is a blockage: either the head, or in the tubing or reservoir. Every two months you should maintain the printer and make sure that the head is running clear. The Bowden can also start to restrict in the head where the cleat locks onto the tubing. Heat, plus continual flexing leads to the tube starting to kink. If you are getting flakes at the extruder gear mechanism, then you have a Bowden tube or HE issue. Pushing the PLA by hand will tell you that. After a new HE is put in, you can feel the difference. A Creality 3D Pro head assembly is a few quid. I would suggest keeping a spare set of parts for maintenance work on-hand.</p>\n<p>Flakes at the extruder could also be a sure sign of water ingress in the PLA. Look for small warts or bubbles in the print. If so, put the reel in an oven at at 60 °C for about 10-15 minutes. Then let cool off. Ideally you need a dry room to store reels, or a proper bucket with a drying agent inside. In the summer as heat and humidity rises, you'll notice that there's more absorption of water. If your printer is in the same room as a washing machine/dryer, you're asking for trouble. Ideally you need a dry cool space. Or just print a huge batch off and get through the reel quickly...</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14761, "author": "jburli66", "author_id": 25260, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25260", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>i've expirenced this a few times and just using my expirence from machining i narrowed it down to a few factors that changing fixed. #1 hot end temp, #2 axis speed, #3 filament feed rate. by playing with these settings i tend to find a happy medium with what im printing. it takes running a few set up pieces but with trial and error you can find a working point for your machine vs recommended settings. no two printers are ever the same just like no two CNC centers are ever the same. the jamming of the extruder usually is feeding too much material into the unit for its temp or it gettinng clogged at points by a bad bed level. If prints still come out ok, its pushing too much in IMO.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 16161, "author": "Dhruv Kumar", "author_id": 28013, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28013", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I had the exact same issue and then suddenly it went away.</p>\n<p>The only thing I had changed was my Z-offset. I moved it away from the plate by roughly 0.1 mm. To confirm it was the reason I set it back closer to the plate and the problem came back. I think When the nozzle is too close to the plate the plastic cannot freely flow out and hence the pressure develops at the feeder and it skips. This worked for me, everything is stock and no changes to the feeder settings or anything else.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 19385, "author": "Jason Fabricius", "author_id": 34141, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/34141", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>In case anyone else also runs into this problem and has tried everything above, here is how you fix it for good.</p>\n<p>While the direct drive extruder might work, it may seem odd to some that the system that previously worked fine now doesn't and needs a complete rebuild.</p>\n<p>The problem is caused by a faulty cooling fan for the heat sink. Replace the AXIAL fan on the hotend. That is not the radial fan that is used to cool the print.</p>\n<p>The devious thing about this problem is that the symptoms occur seemingly randomly which is caused by the rather slow heat transfer in the heat sink. At some point during the print a critical temperature is reached which deforms/lengthens the heat sink and opens up gaps in the path of the filament. Those gaps cause the filament to get stuck.</p>\n<p>The other devious thing is that the cooling fan appears to be working alright but is not. I assume the rotational speed is lower than would be necessary but that can not be verified with the means currently at my disposal.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13382", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20065/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 13697, "author": "Philippe Delteil", "author_id": 20739, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20739", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I have the same problem. You need to check your G-code to detect where's the problem.</p>\n<p>Try comparing the G-code file with different values of the Z offset.</p>\n<p>In my case it looks like this:</p>\n<p>No offset</p>\n<pre><code>;LAYER_COUNT:107\n;LAYER:0\nM106 S255\nG1 F300 Z0.84\nG0 F6000 X124.645 Y78.208 Z0.84\n;TYPE:SKIRT\nG1 F300 Z0.44\nG1 F1500 E0\n</code></pre>\n<p>With offset (comments made by Cura)</p>\n<pre><code>;LAYER_COUNT:107\n;LAYER:0\nM106 S255\nG1 F300 Z2.06 ;adjusted by z offset\nG92 Z0.84 ;consider this the original z before offset\nG0 F6000 X119.093 Y42.498 Z0.84\n;TYPE:SKIRT\nG1 F300 Z0.44\n</code></pre>\n<p>I hope this helps.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 16142, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<h2>Z offset in Cura</h2>\n<p>Z offset in Cura is nothing more than an additional increase/decrease in height calculated throughout the whole file. This does require the installment of a plugin from the Ultimaker Cura &quot;Marketplace&quot; called &quot;Z Offset Setting&quot; by developer &quot;fieldOfView&quot;. This should work (if not, this implies the plugin is defective, version 3.5.7 appears to work as it should which is the latest version to date), the G-code is parsed (as in post-processed) by the plugin to recalculate all Z values (a redefinition of the Z level with <code>G92</code> might have been a lot easier...), as an example an object is sliced without an offset, a negative offset (-0.333 mm) and a positive offset (0.333 mm) below. The layer numbered <code>;LAYER:0</code> will start printing at:</p>\n<p>No offset:</p>\n<pre><code>G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z0.27\n</code></pre>\n<p>Negative offset:</p>\n<pre><code>G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z-0.063 ;adjusted by z offset\n</code></pre>\n<p>Positive offset:</p>\n<pre><code>G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z0.603 ;adjusted by z offset\n</code></pre>\n<h2>Z offset in firmware</h2>\n<p>A Z offset is the distance between the nozzle and the build plate surface that is needed for good adhesion. This is obtained from levelling the bed putting a piece of A4/Letter paper in between the nozzle and build plate during levelling of the bed. Basically this is an offset from the endstop position. Using the menu of a Marlin operated printer you can manually adjust this value e.g. during printing of the first layer by turning the jog dial for Z babystepping. The paper levelling method is a manual/mechanical Z offset that can be extended with the value changed by the menu. When storing such an offset you basically change the offset from the endstop position, this can be done with <a href=\"https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">G-code <code>M206</code></a>. Storing the value to be retained for future prints, the value needs to be stored to memory (using <a href=\"https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">G-code <code>M500</code></a> or an equivalent save settings from the menu of the printer controller).</p>\n<p><em>Note this offset is something different when using a Z probe. The Z probe offset in firmware is set by <code>M851</code> or <code>G29.1</code>, depending on the used firmware.</em></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13614", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21104/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 13657, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>In terms of Cura's model for showing overhangs, I'm nearly sure it's just the ratio - rise over run, or rather run over rise. And indeed that's what makes sense mathematically:</p>\n\n<p>At least some portion of the wall extrusion in layer N+1 needs to sit on top of the corresponding wall extrusion in layer N. For a given 3D surface slope, the \"run\" - the distance the cross-section moves from one layer to the next, which needs to be bounded by some fraction of the line width - varies proportionally to the \"rise\" - the layer height.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 13659, "author": "FarO", "author_id": 2338, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2338", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>A wide line works if there is something below it to squeeze the filament against, but if you don't have a full layer below it, it will stay thinner and it will droop. I would not use extreme ratios on overhangs. Still, do a parametric test: a overhang tower (a compact one) at different line widths and layer heights. If you test 3 layer heights and 3 line widths, it's only 9 short prints.</p>\n<p>However, as you can see in filament reviews, different materials behave differently. I think there is no <em>a priori</em> optimal value.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 13875, "author": "woneill1701", "author_id": 21453, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21453", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Cura high-lights overhangs in red if the printer would end up printing completely into thin air. </p>\n\n<p>If your overhang is angled instead of being a purely vertical-to-horizontal transition, a much thinner layer height can increase the chances that enough of the prior layer exists to support the next layer being printed. </p>\n\n<p>Basically, the thinner the layer (within reason), the greater the allowable angle of overhang that is safe to print.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13667", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21212/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 13706, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>The code in 2.0.x is similar to the old branch 1.1.x, G-code is parsed in <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/gcode/gcode.cpp\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>gcode.cpp</code></a>, specifically in <code>process_parsed_command</code>:</p>\n\n<pre><code>void GcodeSuite::process_parsed_command(const bool no_ok/*=false*/)\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>In the case statement the codes read from the G-code files are parsed (interpreted) and the appropriate method is called (e.g. <code>G28()</code> calls <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/gcode/calibrate/G28.cpp\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><code>void GcodeSuite::G28()</code></a>)</p>\n\n<p>If you want to create your own codes, it could be an idea to start there. Also think of using a different letter and/or codes in the 10,000 range so that it will not collide with new implemented G-codes.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 13719, "author": "K Mmmm", "author_id": 10369, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369", "pm_score": 1, "selected": true, "text": "<ol start=\"0\">\n<li>Choose a code in the &gt;10,000 in case new codes are added. But in this example I will choose 13</li>\n<li>Navigate to 'src' folder of Marlin</li>\n<li>Edit the file <code>gcode.cpp</code> around line 223 to have a new unused number. For example, this will create a new G code function for the label <code>G13</code>.</li>\n</ol>\n<pre><code> ...\n // Handle a known G, M, or T\n switch (parser.command_letter) {\n case 'G': switch (parser.codenum) {\n case 13: G13(); break;\n case 0: case 1: G0_G1( \n ...\n</code></pre>\n<ol start=\"3\">\n<li><p>On line 375 of <code>gcode.h</code> add: <code> static void G13();</code> to declare it.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>In my case i was reading values from an analog system. So I went to <code>src/temperatures</code> and copied <code>M105.cpp</code> to be <code>G13.cpp</code>. Then inside the file I replaced <code>GcodeSuite::M105</code> to be <code>GcodeSuite::G13</code>. I am using this to take in the weight of something using a [scale][1] but for now I just want to test functionality so here is my test function:</p>\n</li>\n</ol>\n<pre><code>\nvoid GcodeSuite::G13() {\n\n SERIAL_ECHOPGM(MSG_OK);\n SERIAL_ECHOLNPGM(&quot;here is where weights are broadcast&quot;);\n\n}\n</code></pre>\n<p>And again this is the only part I changed in my new copy of M105.cpp (a new file named G13.cpp). There is still more stuff in the file than just these few lines.</p>\n<ol start=\"5\">\n<li><p>Upload to board</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>When going to octoprint and typing in <code>G13</code> I get:</p>\n</li>\n</ol>\n<pre><code>\nSend: G13\nRecv: okhere is where weights are broadcast\n</code></pre>\n<p>A bit more work can be done to make it look nice, but this was the hard part.\n[1]: <a href=\"https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bathroom-Scale-With-50-Kg-Load-Cells-and-H/\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bathroom-Scale-With-50-Kg-Load-Cells-and-H/</a></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13705", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10369/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 14567, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You have found a bug in the OctoPrint plugin. As you noticed, not more than 20 graphs can be created/open at a time. This implies that the developer has not implemented pyplot correctly, this is a common mistake that I have ran into myself once or twice. You should notify the developer.</p>\n<p>The problem is that the old graph is not destroyed or not properly updated (I think it is intended to update the graph). The code passes the create plot multiple times and after 20 graphs it will drop the error message.</p>\n<p>If you reset the Pi or reload the Octoprint server you are probably good to go for another 20 graphs.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14569, "author": "Thomas Weller", "author_id": 1570, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1570", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>I have formatted the SD card and installed Octoprint from scratch. That's nasty, because I lost all the models I uploaded.</p>\n<p>It seems to be a bug in <a href=\"https://github.com/PrusaOwners/OctoPrint-PrusaMeshMap/blob/master/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">__init__.py</a> of OctoPrint-PrusaMeshMap (archived Github repository).</p>\n<p>That code saves the heatmap in this line:</p>\n<pre><code>fig.savefig(self.get_asset_folder() + '/img/heatmap.png', bbox_inches=&quot;tight&quot;)\n</code></pre>\n<p>It uses Pyplot</p>\n<pre><code>import matplotlib.pyplot as plt\n</code></pre>\n<p>and thus the code should probably use (untested!)</p>\n<pre><code>plt.close(fig) \ndel fig\n</code></pre>\n<p>to free the resources.\nUnfortunately it's not possible to file this as an issue because the Github repository is in archived mode and thus readonly.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13821", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1570/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 13882, "author": "rgov", "author_id": 16270, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16270", "pm_score": 3, "selected": false, "text": "<p>This is a consequence of enabling <code>Z_SAFE_HOMING</code>:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>Z Safe Homing prevents Z from homing when the probe (or nozzle) is outside bed area by moving to a defined XY point (by default, the middle of the bed) before Z Homing when homing all axes with <code>G28</code>. As a side-effect, X and Y homing are required before Z homing. If stepper drivers time out, X and Y homing will be required again.</p>\n<p>Enable this option if a probe (not an endstop) is being used for Z homing. Z Safe Homing isn’t needed if a Z endstop is used for homing, but it may also be enabled just to have XY always move to some custom position after homing.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p>My default Cura start G-code contained this sequence:</p>\n<pre><code>G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops\nG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops\n</code></pre>\n<p>I changed this to</p>\n<pre><code>G28 ;safe homing\nG90 ;absolute positioning\nG0 X0 Y0 ; move to bottom-left corner for nozzle wipe\n</code></pre>\n<p>However any oozing will still happen at the center of the build plate, which is a problem.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 15155, "author": "Raahs", "author_id": 26029, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26029", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I had the same problem, solved it by inserting</p>\n<pre><code>// Move X and Y to 0 after homing\nprocess_subcommands_now_P(&quot;G1 X0 Y0 F5000&quot;);\n</code></pre>\n<p>at the end of <code>G28.cpp</code>, just before <code>ui.refresh();</code></p>\n<p>This moves the print head to X0, Y0 and leaves Z untouched after the homing procedure. This way any oozing that might happen while the extruder heats up will be outside of the bed.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13880", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/16270/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 14781, "author": "Psyonic", "author_id": 25288, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25288", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS is for thermal runaway. When the temperature &quot;should&quot; be climbing or falling at a predicable rate, or holding steady once at running temp.</p>\n<p>#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP defines the maximum temperature Marlin will allow the extruder to get to before initiating a shutdown. This is ALWAYS active for an active extruder (E0) This setting is what will throw MAXTEMP if it is exceeded.</p>\n<p>MAXTEMP error when there is no heat on is usually from a short in the thermistor cable.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 15019, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p><code>MAXTEMP</code> and <code>MINTEMP</code> are <strong>not</strong> part of the <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection\">Thermal Runaway Protection</a>, but separate, equally needed safety nets: Mintemp is meant to make sure that the printer does not try to run cold, Maxtemp is the operational limit of your printer - if the machine tries to go hotter, the firmware denies and shuts down. Maxtemp is usually set to about 235 °C for a lined hotend.</p>\n<p>A defective thermosensor can trigger Mintemp and Maxtemp errors by virtue of either shorting or by having no connectivity. The same behavior is exploited in a simple test if the triggers are set: disconnect the leads for unlimited resistance that the board interprets as an absurd high temperature, then short the leads, as 0 Ohm registers as an insanely low temperature.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14741", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23492/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 14773, "author": "Mick", "author_id": 3953, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3953", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Your new board may have a counterfeit FT232R USB-to-serial interface chip, and the Windows update channel has installed hobbled FTDI drivers that won't work with counterfeit chips. The use of counterfeit FT232R chips is very common with budget 3D printer controllers, and FTDI are trying to discourage their use. Because of this, a lot of manufacturers have switched to using the CH340 chip, which does not suffer from this problem, and it looks like your old board used a CH340 chip. Try deleting the device and its drivers, and then installing the Windows setup executable from the following website:</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm</a></p>\n<p>The 2.12.28 drivers will work with counterfeit chips.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14776, "author": "towe", "author_id": 13171, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13171", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Your motherboard is not an MKS GEN L v1.0, it's a <a href=\"https://github.com/makerbase-mks/Datasheet/blob/master/English%20datasheet/MKS%20SGen%20Datasheet.pdf\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">MKS SGEN L</a> - unfortunately, a very very naming scheme.</p>\n<p>Your board is actually a <strong>32-bit board</strong>, and must therefore be flashed with Marlin 2.0, built for the 32-bit board.\nThe firmware is then updated by placing it on the SD card and restarting the board, as explained in the <a href=\"https://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install_platformio_vscode.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">documentation for Marlin here</a></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14771", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/20467/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 14893, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>If the polyhedron surface and top surface of the cube are exactly coplanar, which they seem to be, it won't work; OpenSCAD operates numerically rather than analytically and which is &quot;inside&quot; or &quot;outside&quot; the other is subject to numerical instability. Whenever using differences you need to make the object being subtracted extend by at least some small epsilon outside the surfact of the object you're subtracting from.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 14895, "author": "fred_dot_u", "author_id": 854, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854", "pm_score": 3, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Usually when there's an overlap in two objects during a difference action, F6 render will resolve the problem. There's something more than that involved here, as reducing the height of the cube creates a non-manifold object from the difference. user R..'s answer has merit but is not going to solve the problem.</p>\n<p>Isolating the cube from the code and exporting the result as an STL allows me to determine that the faces are generated in a manner preventing a proper difference action:</p>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEtXM.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEtXM.png\" alt=\"meshmixer image\" /></a></p>\n<p>This image from meshmixer shows the faces have inverted normals. The order of the points are critical when describing a polyhedron. From the wiki page for <a href=\"https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/The_OpenSCAD_Language#polyhedron\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">OpenSCAD</a>:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>It is arbitrary which point you start with, but all faces must have\npoints ordered in the same direction . OpenSCAD prefers clockwise when\nlooking at each face from outside inward. The back is viewed from the\nback, the bottom from the bottom, etc. Another way to remember this\nordering requirement is to use the right-hand rule. Using your\nright-hand, stick your thumb up and curl your fingers as if giving the\nthumbs-up sign, point your thumb into the face, and order the points\nin the direction your fingers curl.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p>EDIT: I reversed some of the points, haphazardly and luckily picked the correct ones:</p>\n<pre><code> faces = [\n [0, 1, 2], [2, 3, 0], // bottom\n \n [4, 1, 0], [1, 4, 5], // side A\n [5, 2, 1], [2, 5, 6], // side B\n [6, 3, 2], [3, 6, 7], // side C\n [7, 0, 3], [0, 7, 4], // side D\n \n [8, 5, 4], [5, 8, 9], // slope A\n [9, 6, 5], [6, 9, 10], // slope B\n [10, 7, 6], [7, 10, 11], // slope C\n [11, 4, 7], [4, 11, 8], // slope D\n \n [10, 9, 8], [8, 11, 10] // top\n</code></pre>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBMo.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBMo.png\" alt=\"rendered code\" /></a></p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14892", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25482/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 14903, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>OpenSCAD doesn't have such an option on the command line, but the general idiom I believe you want to use is have <code>.scad</code> source files which are modules include invocations of the module(s) at the top-level controllable by variables you can set on the command line or GUI customizer interface. Any such invocations will be ignored if the file is used (via <code>use</code> directive) in another file so they don't hurt its status as a library and make it easier to preview/test. So for example you could have:</p>\n<pre><code>wantOne = false;\nif (wantOne) One();\n</code></pre>\n<p>and then set <code>wantOne</code> to <code>true</code> from the command line.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 16206, "author": "whitis", "author_id": 19697, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19697", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>The <code>openscad -D</code> option can actually include arbitrary code, not just variable definitions, so you can include a call to the module. You can even use <code>/dev/null</code> on Linux or NUL on Windows as the input file and have 100 % of your code in <code>-D</code> statements.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 20210, "author": "ellemenno", "author_id": 36057, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/36057", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>elaborating on the answer from @r-github-stop-helping-ice, I find the following pattern useful:</p>\n<h6>example.scad</h6>\n<pre><code>module a() { .. }\nmodule b() { .. }\nmodule c() { .. }\n\nmodule print(item=0) {\n if (item==1) a();\n if (item==2) b();\n if (item==3) c();\n}\n\nitem = 0;\nprint(item);\n</code></pre>\n<h6>render.sh</h6>\n<pre><code>#!/bin/bash\nfor i in {1..3}; do\n openscad -D item=${i} -o item_${i}.stl example.scad\ndone\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14900", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25482/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 15085, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You'll need a custom firmware.</p>\n<p>Yur custom firmware will have to react to the &quot;Change extruder&quot; command differently than a normal firmware: instead of just swapping to a different extruder, you'll need to perform some operations to alter the gearing (possibly a solenoid?), and possibly include some kind of &quot;break&quot; to make sure that the filament is not slipping back without the extruder attached. However, there already is a setup that pretty much does this: the Prusa MMU2 uses something similar. The MMU does use a Bowden setup, but you could use Bowden and direct drive in combination, especially if both motors run in sync.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 18759, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>That is perfectly viable these days in Marlin firmware, there are options for setting this up using the configuration file, e.g.:</p>\n<pre><code>// :[0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]\n#define EXTRUDERS 1\n...\n...\n...\n// A dual extruder that uses a single stepper motor\n//#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER\n#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_EXTRUDER)\n #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_NR 0\n #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1[, E2, E3]\n #if EXTRUDERS &gt; 3\n #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_E23_SERVO_NR 1\n #endif\n#endif\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15084", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13550/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 15085, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>You'll need a custom firmware.</p>\n<p>Yur custom firmware will have to react to the &quot;Change extruder&quot; command differently than a normal firmware: instead of just swapping to a different extruder, you'll need to perform some operations to alter the gearing (possibly a solenoid?), and possibly include some kind of &quot;break&quot; to make sure that the filament is not slipping back without the extruder attached. However, there already is a setup that pretty much does this: the Prusa MMU2 uses something similar. The MMU does use a Bowden setup, but you could use Bowden and direct drive in combination, especially if both motors run in sync.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 18759, "author": "0scar", "author_id": 5740, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740", "pm_score": 1, "selected": false, "text": "<p>That is perfectly viable these days in Marlin firmware, there are options for setting this up using the configuration file, e.g.:</p>\n<pre><code>// :[0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8]\n#define EXTRUDERS 1\n...\n...\n...\n// A dual extruder that uses a single stepper motor\n//#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER\n#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_EXTRUDER)\n #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_NR 0\n #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1[, E2, E3]\n #if EXTRUDERS &gt; 3\n #define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_E23_SERVO_NR 1\n #endif\n#endif\n</code></pre>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15095", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15075/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 15144, "author": "Oneira", "author_id": 25976, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25976", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>Lame solution: creating stepped pyramid with offset. I realized that scale will not worked for motives with holes inside. Offset seems then more appropriate than scale for my application (creation of stamps)</p>\n<p>It takes ages to render, but it could be enough for simple patterns. Any better solution are still welcome...</p>\n<pre><code>module buildPyramidalExtrude(height,maxOffset,nSlices){\n heightIncrement = height/nSlices;\n offsetIncrement = maxOffset/(nSlices-1);\n for(i=[1:nSlices])\n linear_extrude(height=i*heightIncrement)\n offset(r = maxOffset-(i-1)*offsetIncrement)\n children();\n}\n\nbuildPyramidalExtrude(4,2.5,20)\n import(file = &quot;Farm/cow.svg&quot;, center = true);\n</code></pre>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGUnC.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGUnC.png\" alt=\"result\" /></a></p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 15147, "author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE", "author_id": 11157, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>What you seem to want is not per-path scale but offset. This is an <a href=\"https://github.com/openscad/openscad/pull/2079\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">open PR in OpenSCAD</a> and hopefully will be upstream soon.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 18922, "author": "tarulen", "author_id": 33113, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33113", "pm_score": 0, "selected": false, "text": "<p>One option is to use <code>minkowski()</code> to combine the svg with a cone. On the positive side, it gives a rather nice result, but the downsides are:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>it's pretty slow</li>\n<li>it fattens the bottom rather than shrinking the top, so depending on your needs you may have to invert the image, run <code>minkowski</code>, then invert again.</li>\n</ul>\n<p>Another option is to convert to grayscale <strong>png and apply a blur</strong> with an external tool, then to import using <code>surface()</code> (the gray blur will become a nice slope). That will both fatten the bottom and shrink the top, but keeping only the top half should give the desired result.</p>\n" } ]

[ "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15130", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com", "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25976/" ]

[ { "answer_id": 15225, "author": "octopus8", "author_id": 26170, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26170", "pm_score": 2, "selected": true, "text": "<p>Photo interpretation: I understand that the image on the right presents the actual error: it happens on many layers, following the red &quot;Starting Point&quot; line (so above it on the photo). Interesting issue. Btw. which side of the print is the bottom (zero layer)? - I believe the left side, and the right side is the top of the print.</p>\n<p>The problem seems to apeear only in the middle of print. Top and bottom layers are usually printed slower, this could be some hint to find the reason. Also, I guess that the vertical cross section is not just a rectangle, but is wider on the top part? - then print parameters (e.g. speed) may change because of overhangs.</p>\n<p>Could you share what type of filament do you print with? For example flexible materials will specifically react to the pressure and should not be forcefully retracted and pushed.\nWhat type</p>\n<p>Is there any exccessive material anywhere on the table? Like oozing or stringing? Do you see any material lost before printing the first layer? If not, the retraction is good enough or even too heavy - then try to minimize it: you may go down until you see any oozing, and then check the wall.</p>\n<p>Could you share what range of parameters you have tried- especially the speed and retraction values? Jerk and accelleration? Do you use coasting or other pressure affecting techniques?</p>\n<p>What is the hotend diameter? - the specs says 0.4 mm and the direct extruder. And (in comparision) what is the wall's line width for extrusion? What is the real width of this wall? (Is it properly sliced and reflected in G-Code? I advice to use G-Code viewer and inspect the details in given area.) What is the infill %, and how many wall lines do you have configured? And the layer height?</p>\n<p>I hope this is of some help for diagnosis.</p>\n" }, { "answer_id": 15226, "author": "Trish", "author_id": 8884, "author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884", "pm_score": 2, "selected": false, "text": "<p>I have recently looked into &quot;print outer walls first&quot; in an attempt to make the seam vanish. But turning that setting on creates a webby structure on the following area for my printer.</p>\n<p>Turning the setting off again (and reducing the outer wall speed to 30 mm/s) completely eliminated the ringing again.</p>\n" } ]

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