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BigCode 970

2016/05/22

<issue_start>username_0: For last two weeks I have been struggling with flow rate adjustments. I'm using an UM2, colorFabb XT 1.75mm and Slic3r. Before printing a test cube I made flow rate adjustments using the "Perimeter test" (printed a hallow cube with 1 layer thin perimeter line). I then compared the desired value of the perimeter's width with the value from the g-code and adjusted the flow rate. I repeated this procedure until I got exactly the thickness I needed. After that, I printed a 15x15x15 mm cube and observed under extrusion on top layer. Also, the dimensions of the cube in the x-y plane were smaller than expected (0.4mm shorter than they should be). I have done this a few times now, and still get the same result. :/ Furthermore, I was unable to adjust width by dividing the desired value of the width of the perimeter by a real value, I got slightly smaller extrusion multiplier (One I got by division is 0.9 , but 9.5 relates to desired width). Do you have some suggestion guys?[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcfx5.jpg) Update: I'll try to explain the calibration method I have used. 1. I have made in Solidwork 15x15x15 mm cube. 2. The cube was imported into Slic3r, where I have set the infill to 0% and number of sides shells equal to 1 and number of top and bottom shells equal to 0 (It gave me one layer thin wall in shape of cube). 3. I printed it out and measured the width using caliper and compared with the perimeter's width from g-code. 4. I have got something about 0.7, but the extrusion width in g-code is 0.65, so I changed extrusion multiplier by 0.65/0.7 = 0.93 (what is not actually true, because I got correct value on 0.95 only) 5. I have repeated the procedure for many times, and always got wrong dimensions and under extrusion. There is the video about method I just have explained: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA><issue_comment>username_1: It looks like you overtune it. I think it's because top layer of hollow object doesn't have any support (which is obvious) but because of that the filament is not oblate that's why it looks like underextruded. If you really need hollow object then set number of top layers to 3..5 then check if it helps. I know it's not really what you expect but IMO this could help here. (I usually set 2 bottom layers and 3 top and it's quite enought.) You can also experiment with speed of top leyer. I would say the faster the better in this issue as the the first top layer should be as flat as possible then next top layer will have better support. And of course cooling should be set to max (as for the bridges). Here is an explanation why you get underextrusion. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RNxqc.png) A is wall (perimeter) B is (ceiling) top layer. Empty outlines are what you expect but filled shapes are what you really get. Differences are of course slightly smaller but it's to clearly explain the issue Please also check Printer Settings > Advanced > Top solid infill. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I've had that issue on my 3D printing shop. That kind of problem usually happens when the extruder driving gear gets worn out. This makes the extruder loose it's grip on the filament and diminishes the flow of the extrusion, resulting on the prints you show on your photo. Depending on the time you have with your printer and the use you give it the gear will get worn out between 8 to 12 months and you will have to change it to avoid the flow issues. I recommend you to open the extruder and check if the driving gear is worn so that you can order a new one. Upvotes: 1

2016/05/25

<issue_start>username_0: I'm running Repetier Host v1.6.1 with Repetier Firmware v0.92.9. My computer is running Windows 7 Pro SP1, 64-bit. If I set a print going via USB then switch to another user (note: I do not log out), then the pinter's display shows that the command buffer drops from 16 to 0 until it stops printing altogether. If I switch back to the user that is running Repetier Host then the buffer fills up again and the print job resumes. Before I updated Repetier Host this didn't happen, I could leave it running while I switched users and the job would run just fine. I'm not sure why this behaviour has changed, but is there any way to get it to run properly under a background user?<issue_comment>username_1: I believe what happens here is that Windows suspends the process running the print job, either due to the program not being in focus, because you switch user, or both. You could try to *increase the priority of the print process in task manager*, and see if that helps. **In Windows 7:** 1. Open Task Manager 2. In the *Applications* tab, right click the application, and select *Go To Process*, which will take you to its background process in the *Process* tab. 3. Right click the process, go to *Set Priority* and select some priority higher than the current level. **In Windows 10:** 1. Open Task Manager 2. In the *Processes* tab, right click the application, and select *Go To Details*, which will take you to its background process in the *Details* tab. 3. Right click the process, go to *Set Priority* and select some priority higher than the current level. *PS: [Avoid setting the priority to Realtime](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/1663993/what-is-the-realtime-process-priority-setting-for), as that effectively will give the process full control of your computer's resources, which could kneel your computer if the program is poorly written.* Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Maybe you've changed your power settings and that's why your USB port stops working when switching user (for power conservation). I know you've said it was working before Reptier update but maybe it's worth to check. 1. So go to Start > Control Panel > Power Options Find your (selected) power plan and choose Change plan settings > Change advanced power settings Then check USB Settings > USB selective suspend settings to be sure - set both to **Disable** 2. Another place to check is My Computer > Manage > Device Manager > Universal Serial Bus controllers And here there are at least 2 items to check * Generic USB Hub * USB Root Hub both have tab Power Management and checkbox Allow computer to turn off this device to save power - **uncheck** them I know it doesn't sound very wise but who knows... :) Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Is it possible that in updating Repetier you inadvertently installed it for a single user rather than for everyone? If so, that might account for its stopping when the user is changed. Upvotes: 2

2016/05/29

<issue_start>username_0: I am attempting to construct model tank tracks with accompanying wheels and sprockets. All parts will be printed in PLA. The tracks will be driven by electric motors. What would be a suitable grease for this project to minimize friction without damaging the plastics.<issue_comment>username_1: You may find a solution with the common lubricant containing PTFE, often called Super Lube. It is described in manufacturer's literature as non-reactive with virtually everything. It is available at a reasonable price as plumber's grease (look for either Teflon or PTFE in the ingredients) in various quantity containers. When used on metal, you may get black residue. With plastic, some color of the plastic will appear as the surfaces wear. It has good sticking power too. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I use cosmetic vaseline - [petroleum jelly](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_jelly). Usually it is white to transparent and odorless. It's cheap and available in all drugstores and cosmetics stores. As suggested by <NAME> I'm adding additional info about interactions of vaseline and plastics. I've found many web sites which claim that vaseline can damage plastics but none of them really proved that statement. There is nothing about it neither on producers sites nor wikipedia or any other believable sources I've found. So according to it and my practice I'm pretty sure that vaseline won't damage popular plastics (including common filaments). The only information I've found is that vaseline can damage natural rubber but I cannot confirm that on my own. Of course it might not be true for some materials so be careful and check the interactions first on invisible side or on refuses. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I have been using *sewing machine oil* for my 3D printed extruder gear for a couple of years, without any noticeable wear so far. In general, I believe any kind of low viscosity oil would do, but then again, it also depends on the environment in which you plan to use the model. If you plan on using it outside, for instance, you probably should get some grease that does not attract dirt, as the dirt itself will grind down the gears quickly. Upvotes: 2

2016/05/30

<issue_start>username_0: I recently upgraded to a E3D full hotend and I started to have problems with slowly printed parts. After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSSm4.jpg) The first two test were extruded around 10mm/s, the right one around 15mm/s. The material is PLA (fillamentum.com) at temperature 210°C and nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. The Rebel II RepRap printer uses RAMPS with marlin firmware. I use Slic3r and Pronterface SW. I didn't find answer in following troubleshooting guides: * [Simplify3D - Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/) * [A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide](http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide) * [RepRap - Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide](http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide) * [all3dp.com - 16 Common 3D Printing Problems (And Solutions)](https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-and-their-solutions) Do you have an idea what can cause this issue? Update ------ I did a new print, where I just heat the hotend and start printing immediately. This is the result: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tqugj.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: You may find a solution with the common lubricant containing PTFE, often called Super Lube. It is described in manufacturer's literature as non-reactive with virtually everything. It is available at a reasonable price as plumber's grease (look for either Teflon or PTFE in the ingredients) in various quantity containers. When used on metal, you may get black residue. With plastic, some color of the plastic will appear as the surfaces wear. It has good sticking power too. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I use cosmetic vaseline - [petroleum jelly](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_jelly). Usually it is white to transparent and odorless. It's cheap and available in all drugstores and cosmetics stores. As suggested by <NAME> I'm adding additional info about interactions of vaseline and plastics. I've found many web sites which claim that vaseline can damage plastics but none of them really proved that statement. There is nothing about it neither on producers sites nor wikipedia or any other believable sources I've found. So according to it and my practice I'm pretty sure that vaseline won't damage popular plastics (including common filaments). The only information I've found is that vaseline can damage natural rubber but I cannot confirm that on my own. Of course it might not be true for some materials so be careful and check the interactions first on invisible side or on refuses. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I have been using *sewing machine oil* for my 3D printed extruder gear for a couple of years, without any noticeable wear so far. In general, I believe any kind of low viscosity oil would do, but then again, it also depends on the environment in which you plan to use the model. If you plan on using it outside, for instance, you probably should get some grease that does not attract dirt, as the dirt itself will grind down the gears quickly. Upvotes: 2

2016/05/31

<issue_start>username_0: I've been having a hard time lately getting the raft off of my ABS prints. Is that a symptom of either a nozzle or bed that are too hot? Or is there some other factor I should be looking in to? I have an UP mini that I've modified both the nozzle and bed to customize the temperatures on. Bed gets heated to 100˚C and nozzle is either 266˚C for UP ABS filament or 236˚C for off-brand ABS filament.<issue_comment>username_1: A couple things to consider: * Ensure that your build plate is flat and level. An un-parallel HBP could result in the object "welding" to the raft. * Turn down your nozzle temperature. It is likely that the material is hotter than it needs as it is extruding. This results in a slower "cool-down rate". So, if it takes longer for the filament to cool between the raft and the first layers of the object. Therefore, cooling together in a manner that somewhat binds them. * Personally, 266C seems VERY high to me. I've primarily only used ABS on my MakerBot and have successfully printed with 225C +-5C nozzle temperature and 110C +-2C HBP temperature. * Typically you want to extrude slightly above the melting point. You don't want to liquefy the material, but make it pliable enough to bond it to other layers of material (or a BP). Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You could try reducing the temperature of the hotend. If you are using too high of a temperature, the ABS will "run" and over-adhere to the raft. What slicer are you using? I have found that raft quality is drastically affected by the slicer I've used. In my experience, MakerBot and Simplify3D produce the nicest, easiest to remove rafts. I've also had success with Cura. Barring changing the temperature of your hotend or switching to a new slicer, you could always try printing without the raft. From the sound of it, your bed is hot enough. Do you have Kapton on the bed? If so, give printing without a raft a shot. If sticking is an issue, try painting a slurry of ABS and Acetone onto the bed before starting. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Do you allow the filament to cool completely (5-10 minutes or longer after printing) before you begin to remove the rafter, or do you remove the printed piece immediately after finished printing and begin to remove the rafter? In my experience, I have noticed that the rafter is easier to remove if the piece is still somewhat warm from the heated bed. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I haven't got a printer with a heated bed so have only tested this on PLA but I have found editing the G code so the printer cools the nozzle down and then heats it up again gives the raft enough time to cool down so that it peels off easier when the print is finished. Upvotes: 0

2016/06/01

<issue_start>username_0: Sparked by [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1245/running-12v-on-a-24v-heater-cartridge), I wanted to discuss the most efficient and also the easiest ways of thermally insulating the heat block of the hotend. I have seen [Kapton tape insulations as done here](http://numbersixreprap.blogspot.fr/2013/10/does-insulating-heater-block-make.html) with a very conclusive resumee about its usefulness. In the links of the named article, [a method with insulating material from a heatbed is described](http://bukobot.com/hot-end-thermal-management), however without giving quantitative results. Additionally, I know that in the guys over in the german reprap forum produce their own [silicon covers for the heater block](http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?252,584458). As I understand there is a large spread between people's reports, from 'almost negligible' as insulator (but helpful for other things) to very useful. No quantification, though. Also, these seem to come with a certain amount of effort to produce. Are there additional solutions and/or comparisons between solutions?<issue_comment>username_1: The "quick and dirty" approach is to just slap a bunch of Kapton tape on there. The more the better! (Until you need to dismantle for maintenance, anyway.) I find pre-cut ceramic tape + kapton tape "blankets" to be easy and effective. E3Dv6 and Replicator 1/2 style hot blocks should be compatible. Or you can cut your own using a sharp hobby knife. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DFZDq.jpg) <http://www.fargo3dprinting.com/products/makerbot-replicator-2-ceramic-insulation-tape/> The main downside is that they don't insulate two sides of the hot block. But covering the top and bottom provides much of the practical benefit, and you can always add a few more wraps of Kapton tape to cover up the rest of the surfaces. Another good option that has recently started to become popular is fiberglass heat shield tape. It has a silicone adhesive, woven fiberglass mat, and shiny aluminum surface. (The reflective surface reduces heat radiation.) It's often used in automotive applications around mufflers and the like. You can cut it up into little rectangles for each side of the hot block, or wrap the block similar to Kapton. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DEiZE.jpg) <https://shop.raffle.ch/shop/insulation_material/> Main issue is quality -- not all brands have adhesive that will hold up to high temp printing. It may smell when initially "burned in" due to the adhesive cooking a bit. I also find that you need a couple layers to get as much insulation as the ceramic+kapton blanket when there's a lot of airflow around the hot block. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I just came up with my own solution before I read this discussion. (Monoprice Select v2.1 - Wanhao i3 Clone). I ~think~ I have a Mk8 hotend. I had some silicon rubber sheet (about 1.4mm thick) which started life as a cookie sheet, but I gave it a new purpose in life, LOL. I cut two pieces to length to wrap around the hotend, and made a double thick sandwich. I then used adhesive backed aluminum ducting tape\* (SEE EDIT BELOW!!) (NOT duct tape, ALUMINIUM tape) and wrapped the sheets in it, then used needle nose pliers to shape it to fit the heater block. The aluminium tape helps it hold shape. I used 3M 468MP to tape it to the hotend, as I currently have no kapton tape. Just did this today, if I have adhesion issues I'll TRY to remember to report back here. :) If it does pops loose, I'll use a bit of stiff wire twisted around to support it. **EDIT**: Welllll ... sometimes one gets too clever for their own good! **USING THE ALUMINIUM TAPE IS NOT A GOOD SOLUTION, DON'T DO IT!!!** It seems the adhesive on that tape emits noxious, and perhaps POISONOUS fumes when heated! I had to vent the room to the outside for a couple hours with dual fans and the hotend at temp to clear the air! Ooops. LOL It's good now, it baked off. **The idea DID work**, and I'm sure would be fine if you use regular heavy duty aluminium foil. Be sure to mount it with the seam on the INSIDE and the 3M tape should hold it closed just fine. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: After having seen [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4026/how-can-i-insulate-my-thermistor/4035#4035) to this question, [How can I insulate my thermistor?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4026/how-can-i-insulate-my-thermistor), I ordered these, from eBay, [5PCS 3mm Thick 3D Printer Heating Block Cotton Hotend Nozzle Heat Insulation EW](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5PCS-3mm-Thick-3D-Printer-Heating-Block-Cotton-Hotend-Nozzle-Heat-Insulation-EW-/282484985258), for around £0.40 [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6f1tY.png) Blurb from the item's description > > * Thickness: 3mm > * Dimension : 75mm\*21\*3mm +/-0.2mm > * The heat insulation cotton is used for 3D printer nozzle keeping warm; > * The heating insulation cotton is made from heat-resistant ceramic fiber; > * The product sizes can be customized according to customer needs; > * The benefit for keeping the key parts of the 3D printer heating aluminum block warm; > * Is making the internal temperature flat, saving power,and energy; > * This High temperature resistant cotton can work for a long time in high temperature of 900 degree. > > > Other images: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Y9KA.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLyKX.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nkRUR.png) Granted, these look suspiciously like the strips in [Ryan's answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1247/efficient-and-easy-way-to-thermally-insulate-the-heat-block-of-the-hotend#answer-1249), but use cotton, en lieu of ceramic tape. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I am using high temperature RTV. I just load it up and smooth it out like frosting a very small cake. I leave the top of the heater block clean and cover it with a piece of cotton insulation. I don't care about power consumption, I just want it to stay hot when the workpiece cooling fan comes on. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: I ask myself why people hassle with kapton tape when it is so easy to use teflon sealing tape to isulate the hotend. This tape is slightly foamed to allow better sealing when used for sealing "tube threads". It can be purchased anywhere for very little money and can stand up to 260° Celsius constantly and 300 ° for a short time (according to its data sheet) This shoud be sufficient for most applications. Water installation PTFE tape is very easy to apply because its soft and can be stretched to the right form. And it sticks for its own without extra glue. No hassle like with the stiff kapton tape. And the isolation is much better because of the air bubbles inside the tape. I did that on my extruder and it works perfectly. My extruder heats now up about 20% faster. I applied this tape in installed position within 5 minutes - easy ! [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rzC78.jpg) Upvotes: 3

2016/06/02

<issue_start>username_0: From what I've been able to find out, online sources recommend around 205ºC for PLA and around 240ºC for ABS. But these are only guidelines, of course. Optimal printing temperature can be different depending on the printer, the filament, the model and other slicer settings. For example, I've had success printing black PLA at 190ºC, but silver PLA of the same brand is giving me trouble. I'm having a hard time figuring out the general rules. So I would like to see a general guide for this, based on (at least) the following questions: 1. Which known factors before a print can help determine the right extrusion temperature? Obvious example: ABS vs PLA 2. What can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too low? 3. What can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too high? An answer to the first question could take the form of a lookup table, or similar. The second and third could help someone adjust their temperature based on the symptoms of a failed print. *I understand that the failure or success of a print can depend on many more factors than extrusion temperature, but I didn't want to make this question too general. I may later ask the same question for other settings (e.g., print speed). However, do let me know if this question should be expanded or improved to make it more useful.*<issue_comment>username_1: 1. Some manufacturers give a recommended temperature which would be the best place to start at and adjust from there. Otherwise you could print calibration objects and find the best temp that way. Here is a [temp tower](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:915435) for that purpose. Mostly it is a trial and error process with all the different printers out there. What might work on one printer may not work on another. 2. The object may come apart if the temperature is too low as the plastic won't bond well between layers. You may also get a rough surface on the object and the filament may also jam in the hotend as well. 3. Normally temperatures that are too high, your bridging wont be as good and you will get a lot of stringing. [Stringing example](https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjO17385onNAhWIcj4KHQE1B6MQjRwIBw&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.matterhackers.com%2Farticles%2Fretraction-just-say-no-to-oozing&psig=AFQjCNEUalIAKOP31E4tTKhdvNbzxpbl5g&ust=1464972656607170), more filament will ooze out before retracting if your temperature is too high. Your overhangs may also curl at the edges as well. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Printing temperature basics =========================== Manufacturers generally specify a somewhat wide range of printing temperatures, and what temperature you should actually need can only be determined by trial and error: 1. The thermistor in your hotend is not 100 % accurate and may have an offset of a few degrees compared to its actual temperature. 2. Your hotend has a small temperature gradient, the place where the plastic is melted may have a higher/lower temperature compared to the temperature of your thermistor. 2 is further exacerbated by 3. As you print faster, you need more heat. The cold filament rapidly moving through your hotend will cool it down locally, meaning that the temperature will be cooler than what the thermistor measures. Faster prints equal bumps in the temperature up to 10 °C, and for a really slow print you might turn it down 10 °C from where you normally are. 4. This is a minor issue, but different colors of the same brand and material might work better at different temperatures. The pigments used can affect the melting point somewhat. Different brands also might have different temperatures. Some symptoms may give you a guide as to how to adjust your temperature: Printing too hot ================ * Small/slow prints may not solidify quickly enough, leaving you with an ugly blob. * Stringing/bad bridging. * Plastic in the heatbreak may soften, leading to clogging. * You might burn/degrade the material (but for this you would really need to go outside of the temperature range). Printing too cool ================= * Too much force required to extrude, leading so skipping/grinding of the filament drive. * Layer delamination: the plastic needs to be hot enough to partially melt the layer below it and stick to it. Objects printed at a colder temperature tend to be weaker at the layer boundaries. Furthermore, hot prints can sometimes have a more glossy finish than colder prints. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2016/06/03

<issue_start>username_0: I've been working on my own DIY 3-D printer recently, and I've been trying to experiment a little with different materials for the body. Someone suggested using HDPE (high-density polyethylene), since it works well on a CNC machine, which would make creating a number of prototypes easy. I know HDPE can also be used for filament, but I've never tried it before. Does anybody have any input on HDPE, or other potential materials for the body? I'm trying to avoid using wood, as I've had some poor experiences with it.<issue_comment>username_1: I've used what is commonly described as UHMW-PE, aka, Ultra-high Molecular Weight Polyethylene for various projects. You may know this material is often used in cutting boards, as it cleans easily and doesn't cut easily. it does machine in a manner similar to aluminum, although the tool should be cooled/lubricated to prevent a build-up of melted plastic on the cutting edges. You can get away without coolant or lubricant if cutting speeds are slow and the swarf is cleared away from the cutter. I'd not considered such a material for constructing a 3d printer, as it's expensive, but I've also not compared the prices to equivalent sizes of aluminum. I'd consider that the use in a 3d printer would be a good substitute for lexan, as one can tighten the bolts without fear of cracking. For bolts subject to rotation or vibration, self-locking nuts are a good idea. If you have use of a broach, cutting out a pocket for the nuts would be easily accomplished. I have downloaded the plans for the open-source 3d printer known as DICE, which calls for aluminum, but the pricing I've found was excessive for the right quantities. I think I'll explore the same bill of materials in HDPE or UHMW-PE (which may be different names for the same substance). Equally useful to know is that the material is very slippery, effectively self-lubricating under the right conditions. Unfortunately, for a 3d printer application, I don't believe the self-lubricating part would work for carriages but might be fun to try with linear slides. It is not as stiff as aluminum, so where stiffness is needed and not provided by the architecture, a thicker piece may be indicated. I can just barely bend with my fingers a piece of 3 mm (1/8") a small amount, but cannot do so for aluminum. Here's the result of a quick search for UHMWPE: <https://www.interstateplastics.com/Uhmw-Natural-Virgin-Sheet-UHMNV~~SH.php?thickness=0.125&dim2=12&dim3=24> which gives a price for 1/8" white sheet 24 x 12" as US\$ 26.06 while the black version is available only as thin as 1/4" for about US$ 28.00 The equivalent size in aluminum 6061T6 at onlinemetals.com is about US\$ 3.00 more expensive. That is lower than I expected, skewing the idea farther away from UHMWPE than one might hope. The equivalent for 1/4" is almost US\$ 60, quite a bit higher. It would appear that if you need the thicker stuff, the price is better for plastic, not so good for the aluminum. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The main consideration when building the body/frame of a 3D printer is the stiffness. The stiffer the material, the less the frame will deform under load, and the more accurate and repeatable your results will be. UHMW has a Tensile Modulus of Elasticity around 120,000 psi (<http://www.polytechindustrial.com/products/plastic-stock-shapes/uhmw-polyethylene>) Aluminium has a Modulus of Elasticity around 10,000,000 psi (Mott, Applied Strength of Materials, 5th Edition, depends on the specific alloy) Aluminium is around 100 times stiffer than UHMW. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I've tried this material (8 mm thickness) for a Prusa i3 clone of my own design but needed to abandon using it as it doesn't allow to be cut by laser easily on my friends laser cutting machine (not a hobby laser cutting machine, it is his business). HDPE requires lower speed than cutting Plexiglas or Acrylic resulting in more heat input and a small top cut and a large bottom cut width leaving the edges far from being straight. Upvotes: 1

2016/06/06

<issue_start>username_0: I am planning on getting a 3D printer soon and I was just wondering, what do you do with 3D prints that either failed or were prototypes that you no longer want? I tried looking online but the closest I got was effects on environment, turning prints back into filament, or restarting a failed print half-way, none of which were the information I was looking for. The solution should be somewhat eco and just keeping unwanted prints in a box somewhere isn't a very good solution either. Finishing off failed prints isn't totally applicable because it wouldn't apply to prototype prints that you don't want to keep. Is there anywhere to send failed 3D prints for professional recycling, or are there any recommendations for properly disposing 3D prints? In case this is of any use, the printer I am planning to get uses filament that can be made of PLA, ABS, Nylon, and possibly other materials. The printer is this one specifically (<https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/101hero/101hero-the-world-first-us49-3d-printer>) from KickStarter.<issue_comment>username_1: It will be very difficult to find a recycling facility that will accept your 3D prints, because they're mainly set up to handle packaging material (which constitutes the vast majority of plastic waste) such as bottles. If you sent your 3D prints to your municipal recycling programme they would at best sort it out from the packaging material and incinerate it, and at worst it would contaminate a batch of recycled plastic (of a different type). You might be able to find a recycling company that specializes in recycling the plastics used in your printer, but given the extremely low volume involved it is not worth their or your time to handle it. You should discard your prints as household waste, and offset your environmental impact some other way (by paying for some trees to be planted, or investing in renewable energy,...) - this would be a more viable use of your time and resources. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The "obvious" answer is re-grinding the prints and making more filament. Unfortunately, this isn't yet a very economical or simple operation. A decent filament extruder capable of holding acceptable diameter tolerances is around $1000, and even then they can be pretty fidgety to operate. You have to have a LOT of volume throughput in your filament extruder for regrinding to be an economical proposition. Some of the reasons why recycling prints into filament can be difficult: * Most plastics will degrade to some extent each time they are extruded. (Both by the 3d printer and by the filament extruder.) PLA will thermally degrade with extended exposure to heat. PET will hydrolyze and break down if not meticulously dried to remove moisture prior to heating to the melting temp. (PETG seems to be less prone to hydrolysis damage than plastic bottle PET, but it still happens to a limited degree.) ABS holds up to extrusion conditions better than most, which is part of why it's favored for injection molding, but there's still the potential to affect properties by depleting additives or cooking out plasticizers. **In practice, this means regrinds generally need to be mixed with fresh pellets at some ratio.** That dilutes the degraded or additive-depleted polymer with good material so you can maintain the material properties and performance. * If you print a variety of different colors, and don't want all your recycled filament to mix and end up a muddy brownish color, it can be difficult to manage the color sorting and matching. Most people don't want different colors along the length of a spool, either. So the regrind has to be mixed evenly in with virgin pellets and a suitable amount of masterbatch colorant to get a reasonable color output. You're not going to run off a new spool with 95% virgin pellets just to recycle a 50 gram failed print, are you? Likewise for material matching. Mixing materials is a bad idea. **If you only print white PLA, this is all pretty easy to manage. But if you print a variety of colors and materials, you've got to set up a material tracking, sorting, and storage operation.** You *can* do it... it's just a hassle. * Diameter control is difficult. 3D printers need a fairly tight diameter control for reliable performance and good quality. This is really the key challenge in any filament extrusion process. Extruded polymers like to change shape as they extrude and cool due to molecular alignment effects. You can't just push molten plastic out a 1.75mm nozzle -- "die swell" will make the extrudate bulge to a larger diameter immediately upon exiting the nozzle. Then you have to actually *pull* on the soft filament as it cools to carefully draw it down to the right diameter. The way the filament extruder measures diameter and controls tension is the key to getting acceptable results. Most hobbyist/desktop filament extruders have not succeeded at this. Those are just the major issues. Filament extrusion is a complex subject with a lot of depth. For a home user of 3d printers, making filament basically becomes a whole second hobby. In my opinion, it only really makes sense in a commercial production printing environment where paid technicians can run the extruder(s) and a very large print throughput makes the pellets+regrind economics much more favorable than just buying new filament. Reducing and reusing are preferable to recycling. Making your printer more reliable and gaining experience with calibration/configuration will reduce the volume of waste produced. There are also some productive uses that let you reuse unwanted prints as-is or "downcycle" them for productive uses. * I personally keep a box of failed prints (and calibration prints and no-longer-needed prototypes) as showpieces for people who want to learn about 3D printing, and as toys for my nieces and nephews. I strongly recommend doing your calibration prints with a "toy" calibration model like [Benchy](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622) or [CaliBlocks](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1090268). 3D printing is still new enough that people will happily take dozens of Benchies off your hands for the novelty value. * Failed and unwanted prints can also be used around the workshop for shims, sacrificial cushions when clamping or hammering or drilling, or as scrap for experimenting with adhesives or post-processing techniques. * ABS scraps are good for making ABS-slurry as a print bed adhesion treatment layer, or for solvent-painting and filling gaps in other prints. Unfortunately, most other filaments do not have such convenient and safe solvents. * Some people have experimented with putting piles of scrap prints on a cookie sheet in an oven and melting them into multicolor cutting boards. There's a lot you can do with this sort of heavy remelt plate if you get creative. (I personally wouldn't use cheap Asian filaments for food contact though, they often have unpleasant contaminants.) Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: At Chaos Computer Club summit in Winter there was a talk from a Maker who recycled by himself. *How can be 3d printing a dual use technology? Print more things, produce less waste, save money!* You can see the talk here <https://media.ccc.de/v/32c3-7321-re_cycle> Update: At Fabcon3D in Erfurt/Germany there presented two startups their prototype for filament extruder. You can either recycle old print-puts or compose your own filament with pellets. <http://mcubus.com/> and <http://3devo.eu/> Im not shure how mature their "product" is. But it will be soon. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: If you have a few friends you could pitch in and use a recycling service like [Terracycle](https://www.terracycle.com/en-US/zero_waste_boxes/3d-printing-materials) where you can send your failed prints, rafts and scraps. No affiliation with Terracycle, it's just a service that I found and am considering. Upvotes: 0

2016/06/06

<issue_start>username_0: I have an object that I want to print in 3D. But I have a few questions about it. What are the things that I have to watch out for when 3D printing? I know how to change the metric size etc. Some people said that it's best to set the thickness to a low amount and not make the object solid (to leave the inside empty/hollow) in order to save money when printing. Is this true or does it not matter? Also what if I want two parts of an object to be separate colours or materials? Do I have to change this in Blender? Any advice and information would be helpful, thanks. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TG6Mg.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIEy1.png)<issue_comment>username_1: You are correct about the walls. Using a *Solidify* object modifier is probably your best bet. A low *Thickness:* value (*0.1* is probably good) helps keep the walls thin but strong. You can monitor the thickness while you adjust the value from *Wireframe* view. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4wif.png) Additionally, and **this is probably the most important thing to know**, your mesh must be clean. By clean, I mean it must all be one piece. No separate cubes, cylinders, etc. that you added while modeling, just one solid piece. Think about it this way. If you have added a cube and part of that cube is inside the rest, it might look good from the outside. But the 3D Printer isn't printing the outside, it's printing everything. So that wall, albeit hidden, that is present on the inside of your mesh **will be printed**. *Bad:* [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/de7eW.png) *Good:* [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQXI3.png) Lastly, if you have parts of your mesh that can't be printed from the bottom up, or wouldn't stand by itself, consider adding supports. You can always cut these off later. *Leg added because it wouldn't stand by itself:* [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1tqC.png) Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: > > What are the things that i have to watch out for when 3d printing? > > > [non manifold geometry](https://blender.stackexchange.com/q/7910/2816) : geometry that can not exist in the real world. It's a good idea to check if the dimensions of your mesh are correct before exporting: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfYiB.png) --- Turning on mesh analysis allows visual inspection of problems such as intersecting faces, sharp edges ,edges with thickness below a threshold and other criterias. *the inspection tool will color the faces with those problems.* [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BLGEK.png) --- And lastly you can make selections by traits, such as loose geometry, interior faces or unconnected vertices. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/phD8w.png) *note that those are just tools to help you find the problems , none of them will fix the mesh for 3d printing.* Upvotes: 2

2016/06/07

<issue_start>username_0: I just recently upgraded my Printrbot Simple Metal with a heated bed (and longer x-axis). I looked up some tutorials, and all of them placed the thermistor as in the picture on the left below, so I did too. However, the design of the heat plate seems to strongly suggest thermistor placement as in the picture on the right, inside the small hole near the center. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nF92.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzmTq.png) I can certainly see the upside of that. The reported temperature may overshoot the average bed temperature (the reasoning used in the tutorials I read), but most of my prints are built in the center of the bed, and the center placement would surely make the temperature control system more responsive. What are the pros and cons of these placements? And what would be the proper technique for putting the sensor in the center? Should I still use kapton tape? Do I need to make sure the thermistor makes physical contact with the aluminum of the print bed?<issue_comment>username_1: You are correct about the walls. Using a *Solidify* object modifier is probably your best bet. A low *Thickness:* value (*0.1* is probably good) helps keep the walls thin but strong. You can monitor the thickness while you adjust the value from *Wireframe* view. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4wif.png) Additionally, and **this is probably the most important thing to know**, your mesh must be clean. By clean, I mean it must all be one piece. No separate cubes, cylinders, etc. that you added while modeling, just one solid piece. Think about it this way. If you have added a cube and part of that cube is inside the rest, it might look good from the outside. But the 3D Printer isn't printing the outside, it's printing everything. So that wall, albeit hidden, that is present on the inside of your mesh **will be printed**. *Bad:* [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/de7eW.png) *Good:* [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQXI3.png) Lastly, if you have parts of your mesh that can't be printed from the bottom up, or wouldn't stand by itself, consider adding supports. You can always cut these off later. *Leg added because it wouldn't stand by itself:* [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1tqC.png) Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: > > What are the things that i have to watch out for when 3d printing? > > > [non manifold geometry](https://blender.stackexchange.com/q/7910/2816) : geometry that can not exist in the real world. It's a good idea to check if the dimensions of your mesh are correct before exporting: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfYiB.png) --- Turning on mesh analysis allows visual inspection of problems such as intersecting faces, sharp edges ,edges with thickness below a threshold and other criterias. *the inspection tool will color the faces with those problems.* [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BLGEK.png) --- And lastly you can make selections by traits, such as loose geometry, interior faces or unconnected vertices. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/phD8w.png) *note that those are just tools to help you find the problems , none of them will fix the mesh for 3d printing.* Upvotes: 2

2016/06/07

<issue_start>username_0: It occurs to me that I'm never really thinking about layer height when I calibrate my z-probe offset. This is obviously an oversight, because I'll want my nozzle to start higher for 0.3mm layers than for 0.1mm layers. After this realization comes the question: Do I need to recalibrate every time I switch to a different layer height? Or can slicers store a reference layer height + probe offset and just deduce the proper starting height for every print? Or is it smartest to keep the 1st layer height constant throughout my prints to spare myself this frustration? If it matters, my printer is the Printrbot Simple Metal, and my goto slicer is Cura.<issue_comment>username_1: The first layer is usually squished more to help with the adhesion. On top of that with ABS there's a bit of deformation even if the print doesn't lift. So spare yourself the frustration, FDM 3d printers aren't that precise themselves for you to care about this. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Calibrate to perfection for a specific layer height. When printing in a layer height that is different than what you calibrated for, just set the first layer height in the slicer. That way, you avoid re-calibration as much as possible. My experience: I've overlooked this issue in my experience too. I would usually print in 200 microns. Then for a specific piece I would try to print in 100 microns, and my first layer wouldn't stick. Manually calibrating sucks, setting the first layer height fixes this issue with no discernible drawbacks. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: All modern slicers adjust the nozzle position for the first layer in accordance with your chosen layer height. You can see this in your gcode if you slice files with different layer heights. *Before you add special slicer settings and offsets,* if you print 0.1mm layers, the nozzle will start at Z=0.1mm, and if you print 0.3mm layers, the nozzle will start at Z=0.3mm. There are two reasons this is more complex and less reliable than it seems: **Different slicers assume different initial tramming gaps.** And your actual tramming gap may not match that assumption. If the slicer thinks your nozzle is leveled at Z=0 with a real physical gap of 0.1mm to start with, that means gcode Z=0.1mm is actually a 0.2mm gap that must be filled with plastic. So the slicer must compensate by starting lower than the nominal layer height. So what works perfectly for one slicer won't necessarily work correctly for another slicer. And if you tram with a thinner object than the slicer expects (say a post-it note instead of business card) then your first layer will be off. This is why I personally prefer physical build plate leveling mid-print using screws while watching the strands go down. It bypasses all the assumptions about tramming gaps and just gives you the correct result. (Or you can do the same thing with babystepping in firmware that supports that.) The other issue is that **people use lots of weird, ad hoc slicer tricks to get their first layer to stick**. Things like printing the first layer much hotter, or at half speed, or squashed way down and over-extruded, or at 60% layer height, or at 200% extrusion width, will all affect the extrusion volume calibration and the space-filling behavior of the molten plastic flowing onto the bed. The slicer doesn't really have the ability to understand "your" first-layer adhesion recipe. The combination of incorrect/unknown tramming gap and person-specific first-layer settings is why the slicer can't always get the first layer height and extrusion volume correct across all layer heights. Within some fairly reasonable assumptions, the slicer is smart enough to always correctly relate extruder flow and nozzle position so it fills the space between the nozzle and whatever surface you're printing onto. But if you break those assumptions, it may perform differently for different settings. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2016/06/07

<issue_start>username_0: First, a little background. A couple of years ago, I was researching making my own candy, and I came across this page: [Lego brick shaped gummy candies](http://www.instructables.com/id/LeGummies-brick-shaped-gummy-candies/), describing how to use real Lego bricks as a positive to make silicone molds for Lego brick shaped candy. Now that I have a 3D printer, and inspired by the usual description of ABS filament ("It's the same plastic used to make Lego bricks") it occurs to me that I can now make any positive I want. The question is, would that be safe? I know the filament I'm using is not food safe, but if I create positives for a food safe silicone mold, would toxins leech into the mold? And if so, is there a barrier I can use to prevent this, such as some kind of coating?<issue_comment>username_1: The plastic is not quite your main concern (though it still can be). You should worry about the cracks and crevices in FDM prints. Bacteria loves to hide there. For most people, this is the first concern when it comes to "Is X 3D printed food-safe?" If the end product is a hard material, you should sand or smooth your print to prevent the layer crevices from appearing in the end use product. Also consider food-safe epoxies for filling in gaps. If the end product is made of a flexible silicone, then this is less of a concern. ABS is not food safe. PLA as a material is considered food safe by the 3D printing community, but I have not seen a scientific study on this. However, many filament makers do not extrude pure PLA. Therefore, the answer to your question is that it depends on the manufacturer. You will need to contact the company to know what is in the filament first. Beware of untrustworthy manufacturers that claim food safety without backing that up. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: In principle, ABS is safe for contact with (cold or room-temperature) food. The two main concerns specific to 3D printing are, assuming you start with a filament that is not itself contaminated: 1. Pores and holes in the printed part which may harbor bacteria 2. Impurities introduced into the plastic during the printing process I doubt that the silicone mold will capture the pores and holes with sufficient detail to be of any concern (it certainly won't capture the internal structure, only the surface). That leaves us with 2. It has been noted that brass nozzles contain trace amounts of lead. This lead can contaminate the printed part, which may in turn contaminate your mold, which may in turn contaminate your food. I don't think this is of realistic concern, since we're looking at trace amounts of trace amounts of lead. The nozzle might also have burnt plastic stuck to it (which might be carcinogenic) so you should make sure to do the print with a very clean nozzle and at a temperature that is not too high. ABS is food safe for contact with cold or room-temperature food. It is however not food safe for contact with hot food, because at higher temperatures the food may leach certain chemicals out of the plastic. Your application is one of low temperature, but silicone is not food and might perhaps leach some contaminants out of the plastic, regardless of temperature. However, this concern is not specific to 3D printing, as it applies to the method of making moulds out of Lego bricks as well. Therefore, making moulds from 3D printed positives does not appear to be different in a food safety perspective from making them out of LEGO blocks. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2016/06/09

<issue_start>username_0: I need to transport my FDM 3D Printer because I am moving. What are the precautions that one should take? Should I dismount the motors and axes? I would definitively unplug the electronics as far as reasonable and fix the motors to the frame so they don't slide during transport. Should I have a housing to avoid dust and other mechanical issues?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, fix the motors and any other loose/movable parts. Remove the bowden tube if it's there, and any other parts that are sticking out. Put the whole thing in a a bag to protect from dust, and put the bag in a box to protect it from getting beat up. Remember to calibrate it when you're ready to set it up again. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Transporting a 3D printer does not require special precautions. Obviously you should package it to protect it from damage (but this depends on the mode of transportation and how sturdy your printer is; if you are just placing it in the back of your car with no chance of it bumping in to anything, no packaging is required at all). It might be wise to secure the carriage(s) in place so they can't move around, but I would definitely not bother with unplugging anything (apart from the mains power, naturally). Leaving the motors plugged in means they will provide some holding torque, which might be advantageous to keep your axes from sliding around. Dust is not too great of a concern, as 3D printers can handle it (to some degree) thanks to the seals included on linear bearings. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: You just need to take basic security actions. like fixing all movable parts simple as that Upvotes: -1

2016/06/10

<issue_start>username_0: I have a home built RepRap with all sides open.. Would there be any advantage to enclosing the print area in acrylic?<issue_comment>username_1: It is hard to tell whether you personally should enclose your printer. However, you asked for the advantages and I will name some of them on which one can base a decision. A 3D printer enclosure * helps to keep the temperature of the whole print at controlled levels, if you use a heating element, thermocouple and [pid regulator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller). This is one of the most direct uses of the enclosure, which can be achieved by almost no other means. One could sloppily say it does for the whole print what the heatbed does for the initial layers. Controlling the temperature can be beneficial for layer adhesion and can help against delamination problems. This can go as far as fixing cracks and complete delamination (Thanks to @J. Roibal for bringing these cracks to my attention in the comments) * keeps [dangerous fumes](http://hackaday.com/2016/02/01/3d-printing-fumes-new-science/) controlled. Here you can find a scientific study about it, published in [Atmospheric Environment 79, titled 'ultrafine particle emission from desktop 3D printers](http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086), on exactly that topic. You can embed a [filter with a fan](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:339128) in your housing to filter the air from all dangerous fumes that are created when melting certain plastic types. It could just circulate the air inside the chamber or get the filtered air out of the housing. This is another use which cannot be achieved otherwise (afaik). * can keep humidity away from your printer. This is helpful for filaments that attract water (and don't print well under that circumstance). This should be realized separately for stored filament, too, adding some silica gel to regulate humidity. (Thanks to @Obmerk Kronen in the comments) * minimizes losses of your heatbed. This happens in at least two ways, - the heated bed will also heat the surroundings, that is the inside of the enclosure. By raising its temperature, the temperature difference and hence heat loss is minimized. Also wind, introducing high fluctuations in the transfered (i.e. lost) heat is minimized. In that sense, it also * shuts out any wind for print temperature stability. Also dust and particles that could be blown on the print will be shut out (thanks to the addition of dust/particles: @Obmerk Kronen). This is a benefit that comes without having a heated chamber or filter. * helps to keep the printer clean in between use. Your axes will thank you being free from dust. * reduces smell and noise. If you use the printer in you living area, that alone can be a great benefit. * makes sure that your printer is safe during storage, nothing will fall on it. * can look pretty nice and add to the style of your printer, [even if selfmade](http://www.instructables.com/id/3d-Printer-Enclosure-from-Upcycled-Furniture/) ;-) There are obviously also downsides, as: connected work/money to make it, increased space used for the printer, and, if not well made for that purpose (which it should be), increased difficulty in repairs and maintenance of the printer itself (i.e. to get the printer out of the enclosure). Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: @username_1 provided an excellent answer, so I'll just try to add by playing devil's advocate. Possible things to look out for: * Inappropriate enclosure could result in more temperature differences, resulting in higher rates of warping and delamination. For example, if you do not enclose the top of your machine, then the temperature at the beginning of your print will be potentially different than further into the print. * Post-print delamination/warping. The same can be said for a printer without an enclosure. But if you are too eager to remove the print directly after printing, you run the risk of essentially "air quenching" the part. Instead, let the part sit in the warmer ambient temperature and become fully solid again. * Enclosures are not a "fix-all". Enclosures are merely a means of reducing variability in your process. As an operator, you should still fine-tune your process by finding the right extruder/HBP temperatures and quality materials to ensure repeatable, quality prints. * username_1 touched on this a bit, but difficulty performing maintenance. Speaking from experience, removing acrylic panels from a machine not designed to have an enclosure is pretty annoying. However, this could be alleviated with a better design. I chose to bolt my panels to my machine, but a snap design would fair better. Specifically, adjusting my belt tension became very difficult on my Replicator Dual after adding acrylic panels. * Don't make it too hot. I made a rookie mistake after adding an enclosure to my machine by using a space heater in the room next to the printer. The space heater oscillated and occasionally directed the heat at the machine. After a few failed prints, I noticed that the extra ambient heat in the room was causing the ABS arms for my HBP to warp under the heat/weight of the HBP. The enclosure wasn't the root cause, but it helped trap the extra heat inside the machine. Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_3: People add a "passive heated chamber" when they are printing in ABS. However I personally think the best reason to have a custom chamber is so you can add an air filter. Adding an air filter will reduce your exposure to fine air particulates. It is generally considered a bad idea to breath in particles from plastic. For PLA you will not want an air chamber. If you want to do an air scrubber they you will need air input to avoid the heat chamber from getting hot. On that note as we see in the z18, PLA can benefit from an Active heat chamber, but you will have to figure out what the optimal temp is. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: If you will be printing PLA, **no**, or at least not without active cooling of the chamber. PLA's glass transition temperature is sufficiently low that the ambient temperature matters a lot to whether layer N can cool enough before layer N+1 is laid, in order to have a firm surface to extrude against and bond to. This especially matters with overhangs and complex geometry. If you use a heated bed for adhesion, the chamber temperature will tend to reach nearly the bed temperature, keeping your print soft the entire time. In a worst case, it might even cause heat creep and jam the heatbreak. Even if you're not using a heated bed, waste heat from the hotend will warm the chamber somewhat; expect temperatures of at least 35-40 ˚C rather than a (preferred) ambient 19-22 ˚C. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Consider the environmental conditions where your printer is. I have my printer in a garage, where the door is sometimes open, closed, or slightly ajar. This leads to gusts of wind, causing lifting and ruining multiple prints. I surrounded the printer on three sides with walls made from the original packing foam, and my lifting problems have utterly vanished. The top and front side are open, so I have a "four sided" box. Heat does not build up, but the variable wind gusts are minimised. Access is slightly reduced, but not a lot. Ender 3 V2, printing the "Ender" brand of PLA from Creality. Bed is at 55 °C and print head is 200 °C. Upvotes: 1

2016/06/11

<issue_start>username_0: I am printing on a non-heated bed right now, but the question also applies to heated building plates. How often should you replace the glue layers that's supposed to be applied before printing? Some say you can do up to a few prints, such as in this [forum](https://ultimaker.com/en/community/19056-glue-stick-or), while others say to replace it every print. What is the correct approach?<issue_comment>username_1: As noted in the answer to the other question you asked, the Flux Delta steel plate bed will handle multiple layers of glue. The determining factor regarding this particular printer and specific glue is how many ripples, bumps and/or lines you are willing to tolerate on the first layer of your prints. You'll notice that a print made with a couple layers of glue, freshly applied, will have a relatively smooth surface. Peel off the model, apply glue over the now-cleared areas, and you've created a slightly-less-than-smooth surface for your next model. I've found that I can apply six to ten layers before the ripples become objectionable. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I usually add some glue each time I print a new part. I re-apply over places where recent part left a visible "footprint". But after a few prints, the glue layer becomes too thick so it has influence on the height of the first layer. If so, I dismount the glass and clean it with hot water. I do this after about 5 prints... (+/- of course). Generally the glue becomes white when it dries up, so I use this as an indication or sign for when it has to be cleaned. I would say there are no strict rules. Do some experiments and observe the first layer surface. Then you'll find your correct way. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Depends on the glue and on your tolerance for messy undersides on your prints. It's fairly common for some of the glue to come off with the print. Or you may have marks from scrapers or rafts. Do you want to touch up that spot and have some artifacts on the bottom of the next print, or clean and redo the bed to get everything flat? Gluestick is pretty easy to wash and reapply. It can also be freshened up with a gentle spray of water, smeared flat, and redried, or more gluestick added on top. It will really come down to your preferred workflow. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2016/06/12

<issue_start>username_0: I use OctoPrint on an Ubuntu system with a M3D printer. Midway through a recent print, the filament just stopped extruding although the motor-functions of the printer were proceeding fine. Since then, every print I attempt has trouble extruding proper amounts of filament. It's always not enough. The output is stringy and not cohesive. I'm thinking there may simply be a clog in the extruder and wondering the safest way to remove it. The weird thing, though, is that when I use manual control and extrude at, say, 220C, the filament comes out fine. You can see the raft definitely isn't printing right. Way too little output: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4Ih4.png)<issue_comment>username_1: As noted in the answer to the other question you asked, the Flux Delta steel plate bed will handle multiple layers of glue. The determining factor regarding this particular printer and specific glue is how many ripples, bumps and/or lines you are willing to tolerate on the first layer of your prints. You'll notice that a print made with a couple layers of glue, freshly applied, will have a relatively smooth surface. Peel off the model, apply glue over the now-cleared areas, and you've created a slightly-less-than-smooth surface for your next model. I've found that I can apply six to ten layers before the ripples become objectionable. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I usually add some glue each time I print a new part. I re-apply over places where recent part left a visible "footprint". But after a few prints, the glue layer becomes too thick so it has influence on the height of the first layer. If so, I dismount the glass and clean it with hot water. I do this after about 5 prints... (+/- of course). Generally the glue becomes white when it dries up, so I use this as an indication or sign for when it has to be cleaned. I would say there are no strict rules. Do some experiments and observe the first layer surface. Then you'll find your correct way. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Depends on the glue and on your tolerance for messy undersides on your prints. It's fairly common for some of the glue to come off with the print. Or you may have marks from scrapers or rafts. Do you want to touch up that spot and have some artifacts on the bottom of the next print, or clean and redo the bed to get everything flat? Gluestick is pretty easy to wash and reapply. It can also be freshened up with a gentle spray of water, smeared flat, and redried, or more gluestick added on top. It will really come down to your preferred workflow. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2016/06/12

<issue_start>username_0: I'm new to 3D Printing. I've created this star from Blender3d. As far as I know, most printers require a flat bottom. As you can see (blue line is Z-axis, red line is X-axis, green line Y-axis), the star doesn't have any flat sides or points. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mh6Bw.png) There's a hole in the middle of the star. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4a6C.png) Is there a printer (brand/model) that can print this object that doesn't have any flat bottom or sides having a hole that goes through in the middle? Any workarounds to print this object?<issue_comment>username_1: Typical FDM desktop 3D printers might struggle with this model as it requires you to either print large overhangs and use support structure (when printed laying down), or lacks a natural flat bottom surface to get good print adhesion (when printed upright). A couple of suggestions: 1. Some FDM printers are great at printing support, and some even allow you to print dissolvable support structure. If you find one of these, you are home safe. 2. You could split the model in two, print those parts separately, and then glue them together afterwards. This is quite common for complex models, and allows you to print your model on even basic FDM printers. Tom's answer illustrates this well. There are naturally other 3D printer technologies too (SLA, resin etc.), but I have no practical experience with these myself, and leave it up to others to give you a good answer regarding these. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The existing answer seems to suggest printing the model in the orientation as shown (e.g. with the Z-axis of the part corresponding to the Z-axis to the printer) with either support or splitting it in half. Using supports in this way is a bad idea, because it will leave a very rough surface finish due to the geometry (and be very hard to remove, unless you want to deal with troublesome support material). The model also will have no contact with the build plate at all, making it very likely that it will detach (even when you're using support, you want a reasonable amount of surface area making contact with the build plate). You'd have to drill out the hole in the middle (since support can not be removed there). The approach of splitting it in half and printing in this orientation isn't ideal either, because the surface finish will again be very rough due to the very gentle curves of the star. The hole in the middle will also turn out a bit deformed and flattened and require support. Instead, for this model, a much better approach is to split it like this: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eXp5g.png) The top half has no overhang at all, and the bottom half only has gentle overhangs that are easy to print without support. The surface finish will be much better compared to printing in the other orientation. Moreover, the hole can also be printed in the XY plane leaving it cleaner as well. Upvotes: 3

2016/06/13

<issue_start>username_0: I'm setting up my printer in a small room, and I thought I'd come up with a system for more easily swapping filaments, but I'm not yet sure it is feasible. Rather than physically replace the spool, I'd like to hang most of my spools on the wall, where they can rotate, and only swap filament leads in the (direct drive) extruder. The spools would be placed at some distance from the extruder, and at various angles. So to make sure the filament is pulled from the spool at the proper angle, and to avoid breaking it, I think it should probably run through a [flexible tube](http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CVKM62Q) to reach the printer. I know such tubes are used for Bowden style extruders, but what I'm proposing is different in at least two ways: **[1]** the extruder motor would be *pulling* (not *pushing*) filament through the tube and **[2]** the tube would be longer than normal, e.g., between 1 and 2 meters. Is this plan feasible? Or are the problems I am not foreseeing? --- **Edit 1:** I don't know where I got 1-2 meters from. The distance is actually closer to 50cm. **Edit 2:** To clarify my proposed setup, here's a crude mockup: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nWcuk.png)<issue_comment>username_1: I would say it's not the best approach. In the situation you've described I would rather install some kind of vertical ring a bit above your printer. This ring would organize your filament going from any direction. So let's assume you got one spool on the right and one on the left of your printer, both are 1m away from the printer itself. If you get filament and put throught the ring then to your extruder. In my opinion the ring should be around 15..20cm over the printer, it should have around 10..15cm diameter and spools should not be too low. The only issue I see is unwinding spools which are too far from the printer because then filament would be unwinded angular but the same issue would be with and without teflon tube. **[edit]** Here is a simple change of your design [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/slvWkm.png) **[edit2]** Please also note that you can assure proper angle of unwinding filament by installing small rings ("eyes") next to spools. These eyes will direct filament out of spool and then filament will turn to your big ring mounted on the printer. This is common solution in textile industry [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQjybm.jpg) Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Yes, this is feasible. You should constrain the tube at both ends, this prevents the spool from pulling up on the extruder. This approach is known as [reverse bowden](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bl_JPJAhuEo) setup. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: This shouldn't be too much of an issue, as long as: 1. You guide the filament properly to avoid breakage (at both ends as Tom mentions) 2. You avoid too much friction between the pulling extruder motor and the spool itself. You mention that you consider using a 1-2 meter teflon tube to guide the filament. Although this *might* work, long teflon tubes will increase the friction from pulling the filament. Furthermore, I really doubt having such a long tube will be beneficial at all; quite on the contrary, I think it could be rather impractical. Most likely, having simple guides at both ends (whether its tube stubs or rings) will suffice. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: This is somewhat similar to a question I asked a while back. Pay attention to <NAME>'s response in [the question I posted](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/768/filament-guides-drag). His post essentially explains various ways that guide tubes may hinder extrusion due to drag. In regards to the length of your guide tubes, ensure that the tube is relatively straight. If you are holding the filament above the machine, chances are that you wont really need the tubes anyways and the distance between the spool and the extruder won't matter either. The point of tube is to ensure the filament doesn't bind coming from the back of the machine, thus potentially clogging your extruder. **Update** Based on the OP's drawing, I think it would benefit to change the design to drop the tubes all together. The tubes can provide many point of contact and managing so many lines at once may become problematic. So, possibly drop the tubes and intend on not drawing your filament unless they are fed into the extruder. You could install smaller ends of tubes at either end of assembly (one at the storage rack, the other above the extruder) to ensure the filament is being fed/pulled straight. The space between the storage rack and the machine doesn't matter. Here's a basic edit of your design that might be easier to manage. For kicks, here's [a design I made](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:993473) for my own machine as a "quick-change" design. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NQXGg.png) Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: Your idea is actually good, but i would add some edits to it. First of all, to keep your equipment clean, you would like to add little foam rubbers to clean the filament at the entrance of the tubes, to clean out the dust that will be accumulating over the rolls. Another thing that i would recommend is to hang the tubes on a separate support for them and not on the extruder head, as it would add some additional friction to it and can cause the 3d model with additional friction making it distorted. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: I would like to add to the already great discussion, that this general approach is prone to filament degradation by water intake. That is, if you are using filament for which this is an issue (PLA as the most prominent example). Also, your goal is to exchange more quickly, that is without (un-)mounting whole spools each time. Basically you want to have a multi-filament spool holder, if I understand correctly. If you design an enclosed box with a single outlet you could incorporate silica gel inside and a reduced effort to swap the filament. I would still avoid a nice free-hanging spool solution due to the degradation issue. Upvotes: 2

2016/06/13

<issue_start>username_0: I have this [GoPro mount for a quadcopter as STL file](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1381474). It looks as follows. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcZOR.png) How do I modify it so that it is wider and longer by a few millimeters but the screw holes stay the exact same size? Additionally the angle of the upper surface must stay the same. Please suggest the easiest solution for someone like me who as no idea about CAD software. The perfect solution for me would be to just import it in Tinkercad and then modify it however I have no idea what the steps are.<issue_comment>username_1: Many resources are available for modification using 3D CAD (including learning a tool such as sketchup, which is VERY beginner friendly). The easiest and fastest solution to your particular problem may be the [reddit community "3D Print My Thing"](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprintmything/) which was created for EXACTLY this type of situation (help with modelling parts which will be 3D printed.) Another potential useful reddit community is ["3D Modelling"](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dmodeling) which will have many people who are able to help you with this quadcopter/Go-Pro attachment 3D model. Third solution: Thingiverse has a customize option for 3D models (including this one). have you explored using this interface to edit the model? This is most likely the easiest DIY solution. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Unfortunately, there is no simple method for modifying specific features of an STL. You are pretty much limited to the following actions: * Scaling (The entire model along three independent axis) * Breaking the model into parts/chunks * Mirroring or Rotating the object * Skewing an object (twisting) Even the last action requires a 3D CAD program. I would suggest you develop your own model. OpenSCAD is a free 3D CAD program that works well. If you are comfortable with TinkerCAD, you should be able to easily develop your own version of this mount. Good luck! Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Well. I would cut it into two STLs, using netfabb slice / split tool. in 123d I would fill in the hole with the merge union (with a cylinder object), scale it, and either keep it unfilled and drill it, or do a subtraction union on where you want the holes. (again with a cylinder) Scaling otherwise you need the original model and solidworks.. Split in 2, scale the piece you want and re-add the other half is probably the best way. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I think what you are trying to do is somewhat non-trivial so whatever tool you choose there will be some learning curve. OpenSCAD, as mentioned above, is pretty well established as an open source tool for modifying STLs; however you have to be comfortable writing programmatic CAD instead of using GUI tools. Personally, I think programmatic CAD is MUCH easier but I realize not everyone feels that way. FWIW, I would probably break this into three STLs using a DIFFERENCE method, stretch the outer ones using a SCALE method, then use a UNION to put them back together. The one problem that I've had with OpenSCAD is that it will frequently crash unexpectedly or run incredibly slowly when dealing with an STL with a large number of triangles. AtomicCompiler.com is very similar to OpenSCAD but runs as a web service and seems to do a bit better when dealing with large STLs. I might try that first, as it doesn't require a download or even a login. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: I would suggest using Blender for this purpose. It has excellent selection tools, you can undo/redo selection and obviously you can resize any portion without affecting the others. However, you may need to learn Blender to an intermediate level to be able to effectively do that. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: By far the easiest program to use is [Tinkercad](https://www.tinkercad.com/) and it's free. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: I've tried many tools, and many ways. The easiest way I found was to use Blender as previously mention. A good (and fast) tutorial to expand pieces without stretching them is Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_8: I like to use [Slic3r](https://slic3r.org) for simplest slicing and rearranging operations. Upvotes: 0

2016/06/15

<issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to connect two pieces of 1.75 mm filament end to end, with no change in width? I am asking the question because I am interested in creating a multi-filament feeder to a single extruder, and I am curious about the process of changing filament while the 3-d printer extruder continues uninterrupted. My current best-guess at the optimal solution is to someone 'cut' one end of the filament and 'melt' it to the end of another filament.<issue_comment>username_1: You'd have to ensure that the joining portion of the two filaments do not "bloom" or increase in diameter, which would happen if unconstrained at the melting and joining time. Alignment is also critical, otherwise you have a varying diameter from one color to the next at the point of join. There's an item on ebay which is precision drilled and has precision machined mating surfaces to ensure alignment of the filament. The filament is extended through the two components, heated (in the case of the video, with a match) and the two metal parts are pushed together. The joining of the metal parts also cuts away the excess bulge of the melted filament, ensuring correct diameter. In the case of the above item, the joining devices have to be threaded with the filament prior to the joining process and then have to be threaded off the filament by pushing them the entire length of the filament. This would be okay if one were joining short lengths only. Consider how much fun it isn't to have to slide these two pieces over an entire full spool of filament. A split device which would enable one to un-latch or otherwise open a clamshell to release the filament would require much more challenging machining to achieve the necessary precision, which is probably why we don't see such a product. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: There is a device which can do what fred\_dot\_u describes in his otherwise explanatorily good answer: the [easywelder](http://www.i3dinno.com/easywelder-en-p186486.html), made by I3D Inno. It fixes the filament in a separate part so that the faces are adjoined perpendicularly and then heats the joint electrically with a device that at first sight reminds me of a hair straightening iron. I am not sure about the joint quality this machine produces, but I am skeptical whether the it is good enough for high accuracy 3d printing. Especially if you take the history of the device into account (he wanted to create a custom O-ring from Ninjaflex), which the inventor shortly describes on this instructable: <http://www.instructables.com/id/Welding-tool-for-plastic-filaments> Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I haven't tried this but it is something I have thought about. The simplest way to try this that I could think of was to try cutting the ends flat and then using a soldering iron or just the printers printing nozzle to melt the ends and then quickly press them together, then you could sand the filamelt to try and clean up the join. I think what would work better than trying to get the width perfect would be to make sure your printer is doing infill when it hits the join so over or under extrusion wont matter as much or have the printer move to the side of the print and extrude in thin air while getting past the join. I have done this when swapping filaments during a print by pausing the printer, and changing the filament. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Here is a neat method I came up with: - cut both ends diagonally - insert them in a piece of heat-shrink tubing, making sure the diagonal cuts overlap - protect everything but the overlap with Kapton tape - heat the overlap with a heat gun. - you will need to monitor and experiment with the temperature. too much heat will deform and bubble the filament, too less heat will result in a poor join - use a multimiter with temperature probe. How it works ? The heat shrink tubing encloses the filament ends and also pushes them together when it shrinks. The diagonal cuts increase the joint area. Results are super strong and seamless joints. You might need to do a little sanding until you establish the right temperature for your setup. I made a video how to do it : <https://youtu.be/eJeU9lXiQPE> Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: idea is good and i know for sure many are working on it but if you want this to work smoothly you may need to fix the device (that is joining two filaments) somewhere near your cutter assembly (if any)arranged to cut the filament...this is the another way to perform the task automatically but you can do it separately with devices available to cut and join the two filaments together. links below: <http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.in/2014/07/fuse-clamp-filament-welding-device-for.html> Upvotes: 0

2016/06/16

<issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to print toothbrush bristles using a common FDM 3D printer? I am particularly interested in the width of bristles, closeness together of each bristle, and the flexibility of each particular bristle.<issue_comment>username_1: Actually last year a group did use a normal FDM printer to 3d print hair, brushed, etc. See the press release from Carnegie Mellon University <https://www.engadget.com/2015/10/29/3d-printing-hair-is-as-easy-as-using-a-hot-glue-gun/> <http://technabob.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/3d_printed_hair_by_Gierad_Laput_Xiang_Chen_Chris_Harrison_1.jpg> That said as far as I know you will not have access to this process, and is probably under a mountain of patents and other innovation killers. Now how to do this outside of fancy software. For a FDM printer the smallest nozzle I ever got was 0.1mm, it jammed instantly. One could print rows at this precision. Now we have to move to something more advanced, such as DLP. Not the materials you want, but closer to the size you want. a formlabs can print at 25 microns. Which as a hair is 17 microns, you are "close enough" .. but a resin would be brittle and break. They do have other materials such as flexibles, but I am not familiar with them enough. Also just going to mention. Tiny slivers of plastic is more likely to cut you than comb you. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: At this point, an FDM printer probably wouldn't produce good results if you intend on printing the same design as current toothbrushes. Each strand is about 0.007" in diameter which is slightly larger than the typical minimum diameter that can possibly be extruded. This doesn't leave much room to provide a well enough surface between layers. With features this small you might run into issues with resolution and accuracy of the machine. The resolution may determine how well the strands are printed separately. The accuracy may determine how well each layer print over each other. If your machines accuracy is about 0.0005", then expect your layers to have run-out of about 0.0005"-0.001" on a 0.007" size feature. I'm also not accounting for how well the machine is maintained/tuned, which could detriment both resolution and accuracy. So, it's possible on an FDM, but not probable at this time. To help your odds: * Slow your feed rate way down (maybe 30-40mm/s) * Watch over and under extrusion. It will be more evident on smaller features like this. It either will look like a big blob or pretty much nothing. You should have settings in your slicer to help compensate. * Clean your extruder and drive gear and tune the tension on filament in the extruder assembly. * Use quality filament! If the filament is out of round, then over/under extrusion will occur. * Be mindful of any health organization requirements on the type of materials you're allowed to use for something that goes in your mouth. The same logic goes for ensuring you don't print the bristles in something that can mold. I believe nylon is safe, at least in the US, but don't quote me on this. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I have had a go at doing something for a [christmass tree](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:552770) using a drop loop technique. You could use the same method or somthing similar to try and create something that looks like toothbrush bristles, but I don't think you would want to try cleaning your teeth with it. Upvotes: 1

2016/06/16

<issue_start>username_0: Since [iBox Nano](http://www.iboxprinters.com/) is the smallest public-production-available 3d Resin printer (and the cheapest so far), I assume it has a huge size limitation. So far I've only seen pictures of its outputs that are [miniature things](http://www.iboxprinters.com/ibox-nano-1/). I've never tried it nor have I seen it in action in person so I'd like to be sure. **For example**, my 3D models are of the size of beads to figurines to a standard sized pencil cup holder. **I want to know in inches or millimeters the dimension (width, length, height) of the biggest possible object the iBox Nano can print.**<issue_comment>username_1: From their website I found a [comparison between 300 microns down to 50 microns print quality](http://www.iboxprinters.com/pages.php?pageid=17). My answer would be somewhere around this range. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: On their [website](http://www.iboxprinters.com/ibox-nano-1/), I found the following picture, which states a build area of 40 mm x 20 mm x 90 mm (1.57" x 0,79" x 3.54"). [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TYxa8.jpg "iBox Nano 3D printer specifications") Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2016/06/17

<issue_start>username_0: What are the differences, and pros & cons, between 3D printers with varying layouts for moving head vs. moving build plate? Example layouts would include: * X Head; YZ Bed; * XY Head; Z Bed; * XYZ Head; * etc. In particular, what are their respective strengths, weaknesses, specializations, maintenance considerations, etc.?<issue_comment>username_1: Without going into too much detail, since this is a very exhaustive topic, I'll write some pro's of each down from the top of my head: Cartesian XZ hotend, Y bed (eg. Prusa Mendel): * easy to build (relatively) * easy to maintain * easy to modify * understandable kinematics * with the right frame, no x-y-z orthogonality (90 degree angles) needs to be adjusted * affordable * bad for timelapse recordings * print quality will theoretically always be inferior at the same speeds and accelerations to kinematics that have less mass to move (heavy printbeds will lead to ghosting) * z-wobble is only existent in this approach * big build-plates are no option for this design (last feasible size might be 20x30 cm) Cartesian XY hotend, Z bed (core-XY, sparkcube, Ultimaker, Makerbot) * less mass to be moved -> faster print speeds possible * almost no size limitaions * construction is easy to enclose in most models due to the cubic frame * looks almost always professional * enclosure can be hard to modify due to constraints in space XYZ hotend (Delta bots) * master of circles * less mass to be moved -> faster print speeds possible * impressive to watch * more load on the processing unit due to more complicated kinematics (32 bit needed for fast print speeds and responsive control with display) * kinematics not easily understandable * error-cause search can be very complicated * more accurate in the center than on the outer limits due to the kinematic approach The list is for sure not complete, and as a major disclaimer: print quality will always, with every approach, depend more on the setup and calibration of the printer than on the model. There are people around that produce great prints from an acrylic frame cartesian printer and lots of people that produce mediocre results with expensive printers in fancy designs. I will add some links to the list items when I find the time, for now you have to believe me. I am highly appreciating corrections and additions! Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I think this is simple, breaking it into simple parts... It is much easier to calibrate a machine where each axis does one thing. For instance, the Ultimaker; one of the few XY-on-the-same-axis printers... It has such a crazy complicated pulley system. If one thing gets out of whack, everything will start binding. Thankfully this doesn't happen as they did a good job, but it comes at a price. All the double pulleys and double rods - that costs money. However if you break it into smaller bits then less will go wrong. When I upgraded my MendelMax 1.5 to use a PBC linear solid slide for the X axis, it instantly solved all my issues with the rods binding (two rods into one big slide). To quote my coworker, > > It's like balancing a stool. Is it easier to balance a 4 legged stool or a 3? > > > Following from that, there is probably a good hour's worth of mechanical engineering information that can be said in regards to the linear motion itself. I would rather calibrate one axis at at time, and not worry about weird behavior caused by a XYZ head. Upvotes: 2

2016/06/17

<issue_start>username_0: I have a (HIC) version of the Prusa i3. I have recently installed the E3D v6 hotend and titan extruder. After fixing some other issues, I noticed that there is no filament being extruded. In addition, the gear looked like it was going in the wrong direction. How can I fix this?<issue_comment>username_1: You can either flip the connector for the motor around (i.e. plug it in backwards) or (if you are using Marlin firmware) look for the following line in configuration.h: (using the Arduino editor open the Marlin file For your 3D Printer, one of the tabs is labelled "configuration.h" click on that tab to bring it to the front for editing. use the Edit, Find and put E0 in the find box, click find. When you find the line below ``` #define INVERT_E0_DIR false ``` change `false` to `true` (or vice-versa). Note that if you go for the connector-flipping route, make sure that you only do this when the printer is turned off. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Reverse the plug for the motor on the board. Or do firmware. Doesn't matter. \*\*\* assuming you have ramps and a standard stepper.. Upvotes: 0

2016/06/17

<issue_start>username_0: I am using Slic3r to generate the GCode for my Marlin-based printer. For some reason with increasing height my print starts to get messed up. On another part it starts to act like this when there are small parts. Is this related to my Slic3r settings, maybe to much filament being extruded or is this due to something else? Any help is highly appreciated and I can provide more pictures of messed up parts or slic3r config if necessary. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTyk1.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4Thr.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: To me, this looks like a combination of bad filament, high temperature and/or fast speeds. * Too high extrusion temperature will make difficult to let each layer cool enough before the next layer begins. This is why you see the poor results on the smaller areas of the print in your second photo. * If you're using bad filament (out of round, non-virgin, or poorly stored filament) you might see a series of over/under extrusion areas or smoke from moisture in the filament. * Slowing down your feed rates can be tricky if your extrusion temps are too high. By slowing down, you're allowing layers to cool down a little bit more and solidify. If your previous layers are still relatively molten, you'll notice that the new layer of filament will adhere to it and potentially drag the previous layers as the nozzle continues to move. You'll see the results of this in the top-arc layers with an uneven curvature. Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: For me, this looks like a cooling problem. Try to print this part 2-4 times in one print and get sure your fan is cooling all the time. It is a known problem, if the layers get smaller, that they do not have time to cool down. So you're printing on a wobbling bunch of still soft layers, which result in what you showed on the photo. In my opinion, this has nothing to do with the filamen. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: This can happen if your filament is having to be pulled off the spool and slipping in the extruder. Check if slippage is happening at the extruder, perhaps see if results change by providing some hand powered help. I have seen this with some glossy PLA I have used. Upvotes: 0

2016/06/17

<issue_start>username_0: I'm using a CraftBot original to print PLA, but some of the filament has become stuck in the teeth of the [extruder gear](https://craftunique.com/item/craftbot-extruder-gear) on its way into the hot end. I'm having issues with the gear becoming stuck and "clicking" instead of turning, and I suspect it is because of the clogged teeth. I haven't changed materials in a long time. I've cleared several print head clogs, but each time the gear gets back around to the one spot, it seems to get stuck again. Are there any good ways to clean this gear? I was thinking of putting it in a toaster oven and trying to melt the PLA off it, ideally without setting my house on fire in the process. Anyone have better ideas?<issue_comment>username_1: If you are able to remove the gear, as I suspect you can, a useful tool is the file card. It resembles a flat hair brush but the bristles are short wire, very stiff. In traditional use, it removes metal shavings from conventional metal files. It will easily remove plastic from between the gear teeth. If you are unable to remove the gear, but can access a portion of the exposed teeth, a suitably named dental pick can remove slowly the clogged material. Cooking the gear may not cause a fire, but could carbonize the plastic onto the teeth, perhaps creating a greater problem. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I mostly use a tooth brush for that kind of problem Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I use an air bulb to clean dust out of teeth, but the clicking sounds like the stepper has too much mechanical load so i am guessing there is something solid stuck at that point. Poke it off with something sharp. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: If your gear skips at the same place each time I have found on my machine that the gear does not fit the motor shaft properly and has a larger gap between the gear and the idler roller. Check to see if there is a thicker buildup on one side of the gear than the other. On my machine what I had to do was to use a spare motor cable and watch the gear as it turned, and at one point on the gear it would slip and shave off a small amount of filament. If that turns out to be your problem use a good caliper to measure your motor shaft, and the inner diameter of the gear. Sometimes the minimum shaft diameter and the maximum bore diameter of the gear are just enough to allow that small variance in the outer rotation diameter of the gear. Sometimes just replacing the gear will solve the problem, and sometimes it will require a new motor and/or gear. As an alternative you can clean the gear using Acetone and a toothbrush, but that will be required often and you will have buildup in the chamber below the gear which can also cause feed problems, and you must make sure that all Acetone has dried before using the extruder again. I suggest starting with changing gears since they are the cheapest and using the Caliper to find the closet fit possible. You can get gears on e-bay at very reasonable prices. and I bought several to get the best fit possible. Good luck and consider if you want to make a more permanent repair or temporary repair when making your choice. I chose the more permanent one because the slippage was affecting some of my prints. Upvotes: 2

2016/06/18

<issue_start>username_0: Is there any simple way of creating tappered thread in OpenSCAD? I need something like 10 mm in diameter at the end, 9 at the top and the height of 10 mm.<issue_comment>username_1: If you are able to remove the gear, as I suspect you can, a useful tool is the file card. It resembles a flat hair brush but the bristles are short wire, very stiff. In traditional use, it removes metal shavings from conventional metal files. It will easily remove plastic from between the gear teeth. If you are unable to remove the gear, but can access a portion of the exposed teeth, a suitably named dental pick can remove slowly the clogged material. Cooking the gear may not cause a fire, but could carbonize the plastic onto the teeth, perhaps creating a greater problem. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I mostly use a tooth brush for that kind of problem Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I use an air bulb to clean dust out of teeth, but the clicking sounds like the stepper has too much mechanical load so i am guessing there is something solid stuck at that point. Poke it off with something sharp. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: If your gear skips at the same place each time I have found on my machine that the gear does not fit the motor shaft properly and has a larger gap between the gear and the idler roller. Check to see if there is a thicker buildup on one side of the gear than the other. On my machine what I had to do was to use a spare motor cable and watch the gear as it turned, and at one point on the gear it would slip and shave off a small amount of filament. If that turns out to be your problem use a good caliper to measure your motor shaft, and the inner diameter of the gear. Sometimes the minimum shaft diameter and the maximum bore diameter of the gear are just enough to allow that small variance in the outer rotation diameter of the gear. Sometimes just replacing the gear will solve the problem, and sometimes it will require a new motor and/or gear. As an alternative you can clean the gear using Acetone and a toothbrush, but that will be required often and you will have buildup in the chamber below the gear which can also cause feed problems, and you must make sure that all Acetone has dried before using the extruder again. I suggest starting with changing gears since they are the cheapest and using the Caliper to find the closet fit possible. You can get gears on e-bay at very reasonable prices. and I bought several to get the best fit possible. Good luck and consider if you want to make a more permanent repair or temporary repair when making your choice. I chose the more permanent one because the slippage was affecting some of my prints. Upvotes: 2

2016/06/19

<issue_start>username_0: I have an option to purchase a hobby multi-purpose device (lathe/mill/drill/grinder/cutter) which is manually controlled, but easily converted for driving by stepper motors (all 3 axis are controlled by turning knobs that can be replaced by gears, with convenient mount to couple each to a stepper motor). I have the right motors and can easily obtain drivers for them. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zCMv.jpg) That is the way to overcome the worst problem of converting Prusa to CNC: the flimsy mechanics not able to withstand stress and vibrations of machining. Then I can connect the drivers to the 3 axis of Prusa's electronics, optionally connect some driver of the spindle to the extruder output (or just control it manually), and it seems the hardware side of the device is done. The problem is the rest - adapting the software. RepRap family of 3D printers being open source means their software and hardware *can* be adapted. It's only a matter of *how hard* it is. Does anyone have any experience in that direction? What would such conversion involve? Just recalibration to the new gear/leadscrew ratios, or something more involved, like editing the sources to get rid of all the temperature safeguards and the likes?<issue_comment>username_1: I haven't done this myself. But the temperature safeguards only apply to the 4th, the E axis for the filament. So configuring the right steps per mm would get you started. The question is more what do you want to do with it and where do you get the G-Code to do that. You can not use a slicer to generate the G-Code for you. But there is software for PCB Milling out there that should work with the configured Firmware. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Disclaimer ---------- Questions about other machines is still in kind of a grey area right now 06/2016 and your question is, in my opinion, a bit too broad. However, I think it's a great topic to perhaps help direct the scope of this community. The lowdown ----------- 1. 3D printers, CNC Mills, CNC Lathes, CNC Routers, and Lasers are all very different! There are certainly areas where each of these may overlap, but the methodology is very different overall. 2. Software is not always interchangeable across machines (even within the same machine type) due to hardware requirements/communication. 3. Hardware is not always interchangeable across machines (even within the same machine type) due to design/scope of the purpose of the machine. Things to consider ------------------ (In a nut-shell) **3D Printers** *Hardware* * Minimal speed/torque requirements compared to subtractive machine tools. * Good designs focus on temperature control via enclosures and/or electronics. * (Typically) uses heat block/nozzle/stepper motor to control material size/flow. *Software* * Emphasis on "plug-n-play" UI/UX * Conceptually easier to generate tool paths. STL's provide outlines and software fills in the blanks like a coloring book. * Focus is on understanding material properties and temperature variability. *Common Variability* * Material quality/shape * Environment temperature **CNC Mills/Routers/Lathes** *Hardware* * Maximum speed/torque requirements. * Good designs focus on rigid designs and handling harmonics. * Tighter tolerance components to ensure mechanical repeatability. * Relies on cutting tool size/shape to control material size/flow. *Software* * Requires more manual input (typically) to account for where its tool is located. The mathematics heavily depend on accurate dimensions for the cutting tools, otherwise you could damage your part or the machine. * Good software allows many different "canned" tool paths for efficiency, tool types, and achieving desired surface finish. * Focus is on variability in cutting tool and speeds/feeds (as recommended by cutting tool suppliers for materials) *Common Variability* * Material shape/hardness * Cutting tool shape/hardness * Cutting tool path **Lasers** *Hardware* * Minimal speed/torque requirements. * Good designs focus on consistent beam quality and spot focus, which is relative to constant power. * Uses focusing lens (sets spot size) to control material size. *Software* * Emphasis on "plug-n-play" UI/UX and interoperability. * Dimensions are easier to achieve as less variability in the process compared to 3D printing/machining. * Focus is on laser power (typically for material type and depth). *Common Variability* * Laser type * Spot size * Power supply Summary ------- Overall there are many, very different variables to consider between these technologies. I only focused on variables you might see out of a hobbyist-style machine and if you've operated any of these you'll know that there are many more variables that pop up for any of these machines. So, do not expect such a plug-n-play solution as each machine requires quality construction of its ***hardware***, the ability to handle the variability of the process in its ***software***, and, above all, an ***operator*** that understands the correlation and balance of these components. All of that being said, there are some machines that seem to be tailored to this such as the machine by [Diyouware](http://www.diyouware.com/) and [ZMorph](https://zmorph3d.com/) (No affiliation, just examples). However, notice that they have created their own software to meet a lot of these communication requirements. **Update** I forgot to mention the fact that a kink in creating a interchangeable machine is the control interface. The controller converts the "software speak" into an easily parsed series of functions (typically G-Code) for the small computer to process its predetermined hardware processes. Ie, The slicer or CAM software determines that a layer of a circle be 3D printed, milled, routered, or lasered, so the controller should **G02I2** which could parse to (For all intents and purposes in javascript, not a practical language) `CWCircularInterpolation(2,null,null,null,null,null)` and run as: ``` function CWCircularInterpolation(i,j,k,x,y,z){ //Some code to take current position and command to create a canned circle path } ``` The point is that the software needs to handle the conditions and constraints of a different machining process and provide a well-equipped machine with the right commands. There are a lot of *different* things to consider in attempting to combine these machining techniques into a single machine and get quality results. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: None, if I choose the right control board. The [Smoothieboard](http://smoothieware.org/) supports CNC "out of the box"; it requires initial configuration, which, while somewhat different, is actually easier than for a 3D printer. Boards supporting [Grbl](http://reprap.org/wiki/Grbl#Grbl) or [Teacup](http://reprap.org/wiki/Teacup) will be compatible for XYZ too, but may require some tinkering if you want to control the spindle. You can use the same CAD software, but the set of [CAM tools](http://www.freebyte.com/cad/cadcam.htm#cadcamsystems) will need to be considerably different. Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]

2016/06/21

<issue_start>username_0: I've been printing small quantities from a PLA filament spool on a Craftbot printer for about two months now. Recently the printed objects have been coming out very brittle. Some structures that printed fine two months ago are now difficult to re-print. The print head gets clogged easily, and when the object does print, it's quite brittle and 1/4" to 1/8" rods will easily snap off if not handled gently. I'll admit to not following the precautions for storage of PLA. It's much easier to just leave the filament installed rather than trying to remove it after each print, so this one spool has just been sitting on the back of the printer for all these weeks now. I'm sure it's been humid some of the days, we've had some rain here. Has the spool of PLA been damaged just by leaving it exposed to room air for two months? Could that be the sole cause of the brittle prints, or are there other possible causes? Is there any way to fix the spool or future prints from this spool, or do I have to scrap it and get a new spool?<issue_comment>username_1: PLA absorbs moisture, so keeping the filament dry is a key factor. Aside from that, PLA is naturally more brittle than other plastics like ABS and Nylon Sorry, tried to find a graph to prove it, but couldn't find one. There's a good [Google Group discussion](https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/Rdx2ZnJeQzs) and many other resources that go over good storage habits, but as for fixing the existing filament. Try the following: * Place PLA in an enclosure (plastic bin, Zip-loc bag, etc.) * If you have some, add some moisture absorber(s) * Place the tub in a warm environment (naturally or artificially) and make sure the area is dry as possible (not in the shed in the back, by the woods...). Possibly next to a heater vent or space heater in your house? Essentially, you're trying to treat the material. When the material goes through a heat treatment (aka the heat block in the extruder), the mechanical properties are beginning to change. The brittleness can be set by how quickly the material cools. I'm speculating that the moisture does any of the following: 1. Keeps the filament from heating up to the desired extrusion temperature. 2. Burns the filament. 3. The moisture is evaporated, leaving gaps in the extruded filament (under microscope). I looked into this a few years ago and have forgotten most of what I found out, but I'll keep looking and update my answer here. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Increase nozzle temperature. When the filament is new it will print easier, requiring less heat to print well. So if you didn't store your filament properly to begin with, increasing print temperature will make it jam less and increase layer bonding. The reason for this is because the moisture that accumulates in the filament will absorb heat and evaporate when printed, meaning that the filament itself isn't getting the same amount of heating as it used to. That being said, the storage suggestions mentioned by tbm should be your first priority. I personally put my filament in Zip Lock plastic bags and store these in a dry location not exposed to sun or temperature changes. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2016/06/22

<issue_start>username_0: So I have a self build Mendel Reprap style 3d printer. I've not used it in sometime after moving house but I'm looking to use it again. What should I pay attention to before calibrating and running it again?<issue_comment>username_1: PLA absorbs moisture, so keeping the filament dry is a key factor. Aside from that, PLA is naturally more brittle than other plastics like ABS and Nylon Sorry, tried to find a graph to prove it, but couldn't find one. There's a good [Google Group discussion](https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makerbot/Rdx2ZnJeQzs) and many other resources that go over good storage habits, but as for fixing the existing filament. Try the following: * Place PLA in an enclosure (plastic bin, Zip-loc bag, etc.) * If you have some, add some moisture absorber(s) * Place the tub in a warm environment (naturally or artificially) and make sure the area is dry as possible (not in the shed in the back, by the woods...). Possibly next to a heater vent or space heater in your house? Essentially, you're trying to treat the material. When the material goes through a heat treatment (aka the heat block in the extruder), the mechanical properties are beginning to change. The brittleness can be set by how quickly the material cools. I'm speculating that the moisture does any of the following: 1. Keeps the filament from heating up to the desired extrusion temperature. 2. Burns the filament. 3. The moisture is evaporated, leaving gaps in the extruded filament (under microscope). I looked into this a few years ago and have forgotten most of what I found out, but I'll keep looking and update my answer here. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Increase nozzle temperature. When the filament is new it will print easier, requiring less heat to print well. So if you didn't store your filament properly to begin with, increasing print temperature will make it jam less and increase layer bonding. The reason for this is because the moisture that accumulates in the filament will absorb heat and evaporate when printed, meaning that the filament itself isn't getting the same amount of heating as it used to. That being said, the storage suggestions mentioned by tbm should be your first priority. I personally put my filament in Zip Lock plastic bags and store these in a dry location not exposed to sun or temperature changes. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2016/06/22

<issue_start>username_0: Inspired by another question and due to the fact that some of my filament will face the same problem when I will use them again, I wanted to know if there are proven recipies to get rid of water that has ben incorporated to PLA filament from humidity? One knows the filament had too much exposure to humidity when hearing tiny puffs during extrusion and/or more brittle prints. I know about suggestions to heat the water out of the filament at a temperature well below the glass transition temperature, but can someone provide first hand knowledge or even evidence?<issue_comment>username_1: Storing PLAs in plastic zip locks along with Silica Gel helps with extraction of water from PLAs. If you don't have silica gel, grains of rice can be other work around for serving the purpose. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: **The easiest way to freshen up filament is hot air, although there are other options.** There is an optimal melt processing *moisture level* for every plastic, typically in the range of 0.1-0.2% water content by weight. But the equilibrium moisture content of most plastics in humid air can be more like 1%. As a consequence, **hot air dehydration is standard practice** to prepare plastic pellets for extrusion in industry. Pretty much every injection-molded and extruded plastic product in the world -- including 3d printer filament -- is made with pre-dried pellets. Hot air is blown through the pellets until they are below the moisture limit. Different plastics tolerate extrusion with different amounts of moisture, and absorb different amounts of moisture. They can also tolerate different drying temperatures. So the ideal storage and drying conditions vary by material. * **PLA** absorbs relatively little moisture, but in humid environments can accumulate enough water content to cause steam bubbles during extrusion. In some cases, steam bubbles can contribute to hot end jamming. Extreme wetness has been known to cause swelling that can increase filament feed drag. It's arguable whether wetness actually causes brittleness, or if that is a separate aging issue. People who keep their homes below ~50% relative humidity usually don't have any problems. Leaving PLA in a dry environment for a week or two should adequately re-dry it, or it can be gently heated to about 120F / 50C for a couple hours. (Some people dry it hotter. but that risks deforming the filament.) * **ABS** also doesn't absorb very much water, but perhaps a little more than PLA. It also experiences steam bubbles, but that's typically the only issue. Homes below ~45% RH usually don't have problems. Storing ABS with fresh silica gel for a couple weeks will dry it. Or it can be oven-dried up to about 180F / 80C for an couple hours. **HIPS** can be treated the same. * The kind of PET used in plastic bottles is rapidly degraded into tar by hydrolysis when melted with any significant water content. So **PETG** filaments are specially blended to absorb less water and to be less damaged by water than PET. But there is still the possibility of bubbles and cloudy strands due to steam expansion at higher temperatures, and there is some evidence that wet PETG produces weaker, more brittle prints than dry PETG. Different manufacturers' blends require different conditions: some people report Taulman t-glase needs oven-drying and careful storage while Esun PETG is fairly tolerant of normal home humidity levels. Oven-drying at 150F / 65C should work well. * **Nylon** absorbs a huge amount of water, which causes it to swell considerably, produce massive steam bubbles, look cloudy, warp more, and adhere less than properly-dried nylon. It's nearly unprintable when wet. It should be oven-dried at around 150F / 65C for 4+ hours -- desiccant will not strip enough moisture from it. In fact, nylon will pull water out of used silica gel! Once dry, it should be stored with an aggressive desiccant (either bone-dry silica or preferably calcium chloride). It only takes a few hours of exposure to air for it to become excessively moist. Building a sealed drybox feed system is highly recommended to avoid exposed time during and between prints. * **Polycarbonate** is similar to nylon in that is is an aggressive water-absorber. It will look cloudy, produce steam bubbles, warp more, and provide very poor layer bonding when wet. It should be oven-dried at 180F / 80C if on a plastic spool (up to 250F / 120C if dried alone) for 4+ hours and then stored in a drybox with aggressive desiccant just like nylon. Note that some modern PC blends like Esun ePC are less prone to water absorption, at the cost of some decrease in mechanical properties. * **PVA** is basically destroyed by airborne humidity, since it literally dissolves in water. Store in a drybox with an aggressive desiccant at all times. Composite filaments should be treated like the base material. Some drying and prevention options: * **Oven**: The "warm" setting will usually work pretty well. Let the oven preheat and settle out for a while, and measure temperature with a good oven thermometer or thermocouple. Shield the filament from direct radiant heating and hot spots with aluminum foil, cookie sheets, etc. Electric ovens will dry faster than gas ovens, because burning natural gas produces some additional moisture. Do not leave the oven unattended if using temperatures above the glass point of the filament, or bad things may happen! * **"Light bucket"**: A 5-gallon plastic bucket with an incandescent lightbulb inside is a pretty effective way to gently warm low-temp filament like PLA for drying or medium-term storage. Leave the lid slightly open if drying. * **Food dehydrator**: Works great. Set temperatures as per the oven temps above. The main challenge is getting a large enough space inside for a filament spool. * **Desiccant**: In order for desiccant to actively dry filament, it must be significantly more attractive to water than the filament is. And affinity for water is a function of how wet the material already is. That means dry desiccant can easily pull some water out of very wet filament, but wet desiccant can actually give water TO the filament! Rechargeable indicator desiccant (such as an *Eva-Dry E-333* unit) is ideal. It's also important to have ENOUGH desiccant: silica gel can only absorb 10% of its weight in water at 20% RH. That means to pull 1% moisture content out of a wet 1kg spool, you would need to start with at least 100g of bone-dry, fresh-baked silica! "Used" silica is basically useless, it already contains too much water to pull any more from the filament. But you can re-dry the silica in an oven. 250F / 120C for 6 hours should be safe for all types of silica gel, but more aggressive drying (including microwave drying) is possible for some silica gels. Follow the gel manufacturer instructions. * **Rice**: Does not work. It's basically a myth that rice has drying power. A bag of rice you buy at the store is already pretty close to moisture equilibrium with the air, so it has minimal capacity to pull water from filament (or a soaked iPhone, for that matter). If you dry the rice in an oven to drive out its water first, it will work to some degree, but silica gel is considerably more effective. * **Kitty litter**: Silica gel style kitty litter is nearly identical to desiccant silica gel. Like rice, it is fairly close to saturated when you open the container, but can be dried in the oven to be a good cheap bulk desiccant. Clay type kitty litter is not as effective. Be careful of getting kitty litter dust all over your filament. * **Dry storage** A thick plastic box with an airtight seal is preferable. Look for recycling code 2 (HDPE) or 5 (PP) on the box. 5 gallon buckets with sealing lids also work fine. Ziplocks and other thin plastic bags are better than nothing, but are permeable to water (yes, really) and can only be relied on as long as there is fresh desiccant in the bag. Acrylic/plexiglas dryboxes have been sold by various people, but acrylic is very permeable to water, so I don't recommend that option. * **Air conditioning**: Simply keeping the air in your printing environment reasonably dry will protect PLA and ABS and other low-absorption filaments. It may help to buy a humidity monitor to get an understanding of your ambient humidity. Now, considering the original question here, it's important to note that moisture content is not the only way filament can age or be damaged. PLA in particular is prone to becoming brittle over time. There are different theories for why this occurs. One is gradual chemical aging because poly(lactic acid) simply is not a very stable polymer. Moisture could contribute to that aging process, but true chemical aging would be irreversible even if the filament is later dried. How much this occurs should depend on the specific polymer blend and storage conditions. Another theory for PLA aging is that the residual filament extrusion stresses (from being drawn down to the correct diameter and rapidly quenched in a water bath) are slowly creeping over time. Anyone who has placed a PLA part under heavy load for more than a few weeks will see PLA creep. It's a rather odd polymer in that it will "creep to failure" and crack at very low creep elongations rather than progressively deform in a ductile manner like most creep-prone materials. So if the PLA has significant stresses locked-in from the initial extrusion process (which is very common) it may be creeping into a more brittle arrangement of polymer molecules over time. That would explain the aging effect, and it would explain why "drying" sometimes rejuvenates the PLA: heating the filament near its glass point will allow the polymer molecules to gently relax and basically anneal to a less brittle state. Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Be aware that zip-lock bags may not be perfectly air-tight or probably humidity-tight - but much better than nothing. I have a food vacuum bagger, and have vacuum-sealed zipper type bags and placed them in the refrigerator, where they do not maintain their tight fit, i.e. air is seeping in. I haven't done a study, but bags tagged for the freezer should be better, I know they are thicker. "America's Test Kitchen" tried various bags, and liked the Ziploc brand double-zipper freezer bags. To my amazement, a spool of filament "just" fits a gallon bag (YAY!). If you can get true food-vacuum bags large enough for a spool for long-term storage, this is the best way. I was pleased to learn what I SHOULD have known, namely that UV can be a factor -- and until right now had been storing my filament inside an east window that gets sun. --- Calcium chloride is an excellent desiccant - often sold as a "closet dehumidifier", or in cold climates, as a very inexpensive by-the-bag ice melting "salt" (check the ingredients). In absorbing moisture, the CaCl2 puddles, and is harmful such as to leather, so be sure you empty the liquid and refresh the crystals occasionally. A US$7 humidity gauge may be purchased (Amazon, eBay, etc) and placed in a container with filament and desiccant to see how it is doing. /<NAME>, inventor of Xmodem & BBSs Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Keep in mind gas ovens produce water when the gas is burned, so it isn't as effective as an electric oven for drying. Silica desiccant is excellent for drying filament, but you will want at least some of the desiccant beads to be "indicating" type. That is they show a color change when saturated with moisture. Silica desiccant can be recharged in a 220 °F (104 °C) oven, and can withstand a higher temperature than the filament, and it expels water when warm even though a lot is present in a gas oven. Indicating silica is typically blue or orange dry, pink or green when wet. If you have white silica beads with just a small percentage of indicating beads in it, they will equalize in moisture so the indicating beads can be trusted to indicate for the whole batch. Non-indicating silica is cheaper and can be spiked with a small dose of indicating beads. I use an x-large (~5 gallon) double zipper ziploc "big bag" with my entire supply of filament inside, along with a cloth bag holding 2.5 pounds of indicating silica beads. Even if the ziploc seal isn't perfect, the silica will maintain a low humidity until spent. It is rated to reduce humidity to 40 % and hold 40 % by weight in water (not the 10 % mentioned above, past 40 % water and the humidity will rise past 40 %), but in my 46 % rh (relative humidity) house, my filament bag dropped to 15 % rh within 20 minutes (measured with a HVAC humidity meter). The 2.5 pounds (1.1 kg) of silica can absorb 1 pound of water (0.45 kg). You can weigh your silica to get an indication of how much water is in it. I stored my filament in a vacuum chamber for a week while I waited for my order of desiccant to arrive, so the filament was quite dry before I filled the bag. The vacuum chamber is not practical for storage as you have to evacuate it every time you open it, and it doesn't hold much. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I have turned unusable PLA into filament that printed well by putting it in a dry oven for a couple of hours. I've used 90 degrees C (194 degrees F), which may be too hot as it distorts round filament to be flat sided as the filament softens and relieves stresses. It printed well. Perhaps 70 degrees C (158 degrees F) would less deform the filament. Today I have a large plastic bin with rolls of filament and three color-changing rechargeable drying cartridges. As soon as they look other than absolutely dry, I plug them in to recharge. It may be insufficient for PETG and Nylon -- I don't yet have much experience. Upvotes: 0

2016/06/23

<issue_start>username_0: I have the [XYZPrinting da-Vinci-1.0](http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/da-Vinci-1.0) with ABS filament. I am concerned about ventilation. If this is used inside, what safety precautions are necessary, which are recommended, and/or which are optional?<issue_comment>username_1: your fine at practical temperatures. source: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene#Hazard_for_humans> recommended would probably be set your controller to not go above 380c if your really worried. but it's not needed. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Most *reputable* suppliers of filament should have MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) available for the material they are providing. This sheet should provide you with some mechanical, electrical, and chemical properties as well as **safety concerns**. For the most part an ABS MSDS will tell you that it can be harmful to inhale or consume ABS in any phase state (solid, gas, liquid, etc.). Although you didn't explicitly state it in your question, your [ventilation](/questions/tagged/ventilation "show questions tagged 'ventilation'") tag will lead to some pretty good answers to a somewhat related question about [air filtration options](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-are-the-best-air-filtration-options-for-enclosures). Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Yes... The issue with *all* 3d printing materials. Not just ABS, but worse with ABS is the fine air particulate and Ultra fine it creates during the 3d printing process. PLA is considered *safer* than ABS. But I fear people will use this as justification, it is like saying I only smoke one cig a day instead of two so I am safe and healthy. No it really should be taken seriously. There are a number of scientific papers and articles proving that this is an issue. Specifically that 3d printers release ultra fine particles into the air. Which can damage the lungs over time. I would STRONGLY advise not using a 3d printer around children, or at least putting it in the garage where you will not contaminate your homes air supply. I.E. * <http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086> * <http://built-envi.com/portfolio/ultrafine-particle-emissions-from-3d-printers/> * <https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11139166> * <http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160201-new-study-shows-health-hazards-of-3d-printing-suggests-pla-could-be-your-safest-bet.html> Lot of these have some scary looking graphs. Note that I am being a bit sarcastic when I say "scary looking graphs" the take away is ABS has twice the Fine Partical emission as PLA. However should you be worried, is still up to debate. The idea is that FPE can maybe contribute to cancer or other illnesses. FPEs are thought to irritate the lungs. These graphs are of the ultra fine particle emissions. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFA4o.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcg08.png) as you can see PLA is MUCH safer in this regard. I cannot find the paper at the moment, but the recommendation is a full air cycle several times an hour. As someone that lives in a Cold state I personally just use PLA and am rolling the dice. There is [another SO](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/513/what-are-the-best-air-filtration-options-for-enclosures/3212#3212) where I cover my future plans for an air scrubber. I will note that other materials such as Polycarbonate should just be plain avoided. I also want to provide these links on WHY ultra fine particles are bad. In summary they really upset your lungs and are thought to cause lung cancer over time. [Wikipedia on Ultra fine particulates.](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultrafine_particle) [White paper on ultra fine particulates.](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1740105/pdf/v058p00211.pdf) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I haven't printed much ABS but I rapidly realised that printing ABS in an enclosed space soon fills up with fumes, which apart from their toxic nature, see answer above, really stink. I close off the print space rest of the house and wear a two-filter painters respirator when in the same environment and ventilate the room when finished - I live in a temperate zone so leaving the window open isn't always an option and drafts can affect the print. Ideally, I should enclose the printer and filter the airflow but for the amount of ABS I print, it's not an economic option so a respirator it is. Upvotes: 0

2016/06/25

<issue_start>username_0: Can I use a metal filament such as Copper, Zinc Alloy, Silver filaments on M3D Micro? *The Pro hasn't come out yet but I assume it would if the Micro can since the Pro is suppose to be the improvement edition.* An example of a metal filament that I found is this [Silver PLA 1.75mm Filament](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00T76GLWE). Here's one for [Cooper PLA 1.75mm Filament](http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-plated-copper-pla-1-75mm-filament-1kg-2-2lb-for-3d-printers.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwtLO7BRDax4-I4_6G71USJAA6FjN1VDu_t4Co-u949PfHWjVL0x6BD-I-4ZLRUEij0bhWLhoCSSbw_wcB). I would like to make small sculptures or bracelet beads/charms, and whatever else I could think of making using metal. And, I'm asking because I'm new to 3d printing, I want to learn how to work with a 3d printer and M3D is very affordable for me. *So I'm making sure before I buy*. Note that I've emailed M3D twice and I didn't get any reply. If not M3D, can any other 3D Printer comparable to M3D do this? The MBot Mini, maybe?<issue_comment>username_1: Most 3D printers that use non-proprietary filament *can* print exotic filaments, such as the ones you mention. One thing to be aware of, though, is that some of these filaments [wear down the nozzle](http://makezine.com/2015/09/11/carbon-fiber-filament-ruins-nozzles/) far more quickly than ordinary PLA, and therefore should be used with [reinforced nozzles](http://e3d-online.com/V6-nozzle-hardened-steel-3mmx0.4mm) (unless you have extra nozzles to spare). Carbon fibre and metallic filaments are generally known to increase nozzle wear, while softer alloys such as wood and bamboo generally are less abrasive. A quick google search reveals that many people have used non-proprietary filament on the M3D Micro successfully, but be aware that using such filaments is not covered by your [warranty](https://printm3d.com/terms-of-use). If you are going to use abrasive filaments with your Micro, I would check that M3D allows you to replace the nozzle first. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: It is my understanding that the metals are so fine and mixed in with other ingredients that you cannot tell that there is metal at all. But looks like its 100% metals. Upvotes: 0

2016/06/26

<issue_start>username_0: I search about that topic, but all what I found, was the mechanical part of the 3d printer. But I didn't find, how to program it using arduino. I want to make a cartesian 3d printer. I don't have a printer yet, but I will buy all the components that I need actually. I know, how to control stepper motors, but I don't know, how I can program it in order to make the shape that I want. This is my question: what I need to learn in order to let this 3d printer make this shapes?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes. Look up Arduino Ramps 1.4 <http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4> Following the programing is all done for you in the firmware. That said you can edit it. Just open the firmware files -- it is compiled when you upload them. Generally however one usually sticks to the preferences header alone.. <http://reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware> Over all you are trying to reinvent the wheel. When I started 5-6 years ago it was barely a thing. Now you buy a proven kit and get to the printing. That said if you are truly interested in designing check out. <https://www.facebook.com/groups/cncbuilddesign/> If you want help on picking a kit. Or what I really think you are looking for. A good place to start. This is one of the larger 3d printing groups. Full disclosure I run this one, but at 6k members I don't recruit. <https://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPrinterHobbyists/> I got my start in reprap IRC <http://reprap.org/wiki/IRC> Be aware there are trolls that now camp the IRC looking to sell you a printer. I would not engage with them, their printers are usually overpriced and sub par. Best of luck. Most of all I think you need to know it's Reprap all the way. Reprap forums, Reprap printers, Reprap kits, Reprap community. All the commercial printers started off the reprap project. Even if you buy a makerbot (don't) it's Reprap in it's roots. <https://vimeo.com/5202148> Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: While Star Wind's answer is best as far as addressing what was not asked, but was probably the intent of the question, for educational purposes: To control the printer you need an microcontroller (most popular are Arduino) which will interface with the motor drivers. Microcontrollers cannot output the current needed to control the motors, so motor drivers (such as this <https://www.pololu.com/product/1182> ) are easy ways to control a stepper motor with higher current (and usually voltage). You can build your own if you are particularlly adventurous, they are essentially two H-bridge circuits. The Arduino programming environment has a library for controlling stepper motors through a driver built in, you just tell it which pin to send the pulses to, and how fast, and a separate pin tells it to spin clockwise or counterclockwise. For a 3D printer you need at least four motors working in unison, one for the X, Y, Z axis, and one for the extruder (E axis). The existing programs that 3D printers use (Marlin, Sprinter, Teacup, etc) are all doing these simple steps at their core, but have implemented libraries of G-code that the printer uses to make control the stepper motors in unison to make the correct shape. Slicing programs such as Cura or Slic3r take in the 3D model and output the Gcode that the microcontroller is programmed to understand. Upvotes: 2

2016/06/28

<issue_start>username_0: I created a new project in Materialise Magics, added a few parts (different STLs), moved them around in certain positions and now I want to export this project into another STL, containing my recent work. The export menu seems to be all grey, like this function is not available. Do I have to do some repairing first or something similar? Or Magics needs other software in order to export a Magics Project to a STL file?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes. Look up Arduino Ramps 1.4 <http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4> Following the programing is all done for you in the firmware. That said you can edit it. Just open the firmware files -- it is compiled when you upload them. Generally however one usually sticks to the preferences header alone.. <http://reprap.org/wiki/List_of_Firmware> Over all you are trying to reinvent the wheel. When I started 5-6 years ago it was barely a thing. Now you buy a proven kit and get to the printing. That said if you are truly interested in designing check out. <https://www.facebook.com/groups/cncbuilddesign/> If you want help on picking a kit. Or what I really think you are looking for. A good place to start. This is one of the larger 3d printing groups. Full disclosure I run this one, but at 6k members I don't recruit. <https://www.facebook.com/groups/3DPrinterHobbyists/> I got my start in reprap IRC <http://reprap.org/wiki/IRC> Be aware there are trolls that now camp the IRC looking to sell you a printer. I would not engage with them, their printers are usually overpriced and sub par. Best of luck. Most of all I think you need to know it's Reprap all the way. Reprap forums, Reprap printers, Reprap kits, Reprap community. All the commercial printers started off the reprap project. Even if you buy a makerbot (don't) it's Reprap in it's roots. <https://vimeo.com/5202148> Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: While Star Wind's answer is best as far as addressing what was not asked, but was probably the intent of the question, for educational purposes: To control the printer you need an microcontroller (most popular are Arduino) which will interface with the motor drivers. Microcontrollers cannot output the current needed to control the motors, so motor drivers (such as this <https://www.pololu.com/product/1182> ) are easy ways to control a stepper motor with higher current (and usually voltage). You can build your own if you are particularlly adventurous, they are essentially two H-bridge circuits. The Arduino programming environment has a library for controlling stepper motors through a driver built in, you just tell it which pin to send the pulses to, and how fast, and a separate pin tells it to spin clockwise or counterclockwise. For a 3D printer you need at least four motors working in unison, one for the X, Y, Z axis, and one for the extruder (E axis). The existing programs that 3D printers use (Marlin, Sprinter, Teacup, etc) are all doing these simple steps at their core, but have implemented libraries of G-code that the printer uses to make control the stepper motors in unison to make the correct shape. Slicing programs such as Cura or Slic3r take in the 3D model and output the Gcode that the microcontroller is programmed to understand. Upvotes: 2

2016/06/29

<issue_start>username_0: I am using the E3D v6 hotend with the titan extruder. Everytime I go to do a test print, just enough stringy filament oozes comes out of the hotend "right before" it lays down the first layer. I have no idea why it oozes out the little bit of filament before it prints.... The unwanted filament builds up while some of the first layer is done. As a result, what has been printed or about to be printed get stuck together as it tries to do the rest of the print.... [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ezHBV.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: As the filament in the melt chamber heats up, it's going to inevitably ooze a little bit. Make sure you watch for this and clean it off as the hot-end heats up, and setup you slicing software to print a skirt, which will print a few loops around the outside of your print, separated by a few mm, to deal with ooze and get filament flowing properly. If it oozes a lot, try reducing your print temperature a bit. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: One possible solution is to "park" the hotend on the print bed as it is heating up. The bed blocks the nozzle, and prevents ooze from coming out. If any does come up, it tends to stick to the bed, not to the nozzle. You can do this by including an appropriate `G1` command in your start G-code. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: In general, it's a bit normal to have *some* filament ooze during warm-up. However, if it seems to be an abnormal amount, you may want to consider reducing your target temperature. Keep in mind that ideal extrusion temperatures are subjective to the source of your filament. Not all filament is of the same material quality and differing degrees of purity. Sometimes, the same filament will be of different quality from the same source. It might be worth dedicating the first bit of each spool to a bar test to determine what the appropriate extrusion temperature should be. A simple test would be to use the control panel on your machine or use your software (whichever is easiest for you): * Manually set the extruder to **extrude filament** * **Stop** the extruder * **Clean** excess material from nozzle * **Watch** for ooze * Gradually **reduce** the temperature * **Repeat** until the amount of ooze is an appropriate to your liking Also remember that there will be some left-over material from a previous spool when swapping spools. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: As others have said, printers ooze when heating up. I keep a business card by the printer and do a wipe on the nozzle just before it starts the print. Upvotes: 0

2016/06/29

<issue_start>username_0: My Craftbot Plus Craftware slicer estimates cost per job based on filament prices I add as parameters. What costs per meter would you use? I created spreadsheets to calculate this for 1.75mm diameter filament and arrived at PLA = 6.6 cents per meter, ABS = 6.1 and PET XT = 18.6 cents per meter. Edit: thanks for feedback! I paid \$22 per kilogram for PLA and ABS. I paid \$57 for .75 kilogram of Colorfab XT Black.<issue_comment>username_1: The simplest method is to divide spool price by its length. That's obvious I think. If PLA 1.75 (1kg net) has about 120m length and it costs 16usd then it looks like 1m costs arount 13c. =price/length I think everyone can buy different filament at different price from different vendors so there is no good general price to enter into your slicer app. It has to be calculated each time you use new filament. There are also other parts of the price. Electricity, time, wear, depreciation, know-how even the rent is some part of the ending price of the final product. Of course most of them are incalculable as they are permiles or so. But if you don't plan to sell it you can base on the filament price only. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This strongly depends on the cost of the spool in question. Prices are not consistent among materials at all; a spool of ABS can cost anywhere from \$15 to \$60 and the same price range applies to pretty much all other plastic. For the purpose of this question I am going to assume that a 1 kilogram spool costs \$25 (regardless of material) but you can scale the figures to what is appropriate for your brand of filament. [ToyBuilder Labs](https://www.toybuilderlabs.com/blogs/news/13053117-filament-volume-and-length) lists the density of ABS at 1.04g/ml, whereas PLA is somewhat more dense at 1.25g/ml. As such, a 1kg spool of ABS would be 400 meters (1.75mm filament) or 156 meters (2.85mm filament). PLA would come out to 333 meters (125 meters for 2.85mm filament) We thus have the following costs (cost per meter for 2.85mm filament in parenthesis): * ABS: 6.25 cents/meter (16) * PLA: 7.5 cents/meter (20) The density of PETG is roughly the same as PLA, so they have the same cost per meter (for similarly priced spools). In general, to compute the cost per meter, you would use the following formula: $$[\text{\$/m}]=[\text{cost of 1 }kg] \times [\text{density in }g/mm^3] \times \frac{[\text{diameter in }mm]^2\ \times \pi }{4000}$$ Upvotes: 3

2016/06/29

<issue_start>username_0: I have a serious problem and I can't find a way to solve it because I have no idea why is it happening. For some reason the things I print get really messy, like a mountain range growing on the print. It looks like overflow but it can't be because I'm already using 0.82 flow modifier and if I go any lower the printout will fall apart as the extrusions won't touch at all. I've double checked my extruder steps and my filament and also my nozzle width, all are set up correctly. The whole thing looks like the printer is over-extruding just in some parts of the print. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgpKL.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: It definitely looks like over extruding. But similar effect can appear with proper extruding (or not too much exceeded) but with too high temperature. If it appears only on some parts of the first layer then it can be: * bed leveling issue (or eventually bed is bent) * caret mechanism issue (dispositioned/bent) You can also check different speeds just to be sure. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This is happening on the first or second layer, correct? It looks like your nozzle is trammed too close to the build plate. If there is less gap between the nozzle and bed than the slicer expects, it will over-extrude the first layer. That tends to produce "bacon" patterns of ripples on the bottom of the print as the plastic gets unevenly squeezed out to the side of the strand. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Your printer could be **calibrated too close to the bed**: if your slicer is set to use a 0.4mm first layer height, but the printer actually moves the nozzle 0.2mm from the bed, then you will get this result. If this is the case, the first layers look over extruded and squashed, while layers after sparse infill has been printed will look fine. The support structure will in this case give room for the extra filament, making the extrusion look normal again (although it probably was fine all along). Upvotes: 1

2016/06/30

<issue_start>username_0: I homebuilt a delta 3D printer (like Kossel mini) with a Z probe near the hotend with manual deploy and RAMPS 1.4 board: * I configured the Repetier firmware with the online tool; * All my endstops (included the Z probe endstop) work in reverse mode, so I reversed the endstops triggering option; * I enabled *Z-probing* and set the `BED_LEVELING_METHOD` to 1 (n\*n grid); * I set `Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS` to 3, and; * Finally I downloaded it and uploaded to my Mega 2560. Then I tested it inside Repetier-Host and all seems to work well (homing, moving, extruding) except for the Autobed leveling method. Specifically, it always starts measurement of **3 Points** (with 3 probe repetition each) even if I change the type of measurement. It never does a **grid measurement** or a **2 points mirror** measurement. I also tried to re-upload the firmware with `EEPROM_MODE` to 0 but didn't work. Does anyone have the same issue, or can explain to me why this happens?<issue_comment>username_1: Delta bed leveling has been dodgy in username_2 for a long time. There are a number of fixes occurring in the dev branch right now (June 2016) if you look at Github. So it's getting better, but I wouldn't call it mature yet. (Delta auto-calibration is one of the only big shortcomings of username_2, in my opinion.) The problem with approaches like bed plane compensation and grid/mesh leveling for Deltas is that they don't fix print geometry errors caused by imprecise printer construction. They just help get the first layer down. What I would recommend is to use one of the non-username_2 delta auto-calibration techniques available in order to get your firmware settings correct, and then you won't need to use "slap a bandaid on a calibration problem" solutions like grid leveling. Two popular options: * **Load Rich Cattell's Marlin branch**, perform auto-calibration, record the adjusted values, and then load those parameters into username_2. This will usually work well enough that you don't need to attempt any kind of auto-leveling in username_2. (I don't recommend actually printing with Marlin on a Delta due to lack of performance optimization. username_2 can print much, much faster while managing more features like LCDs. Marlin gets bogged down doing all the Delta kinematics math unless you print very slow.) * **Use David Crocker's awesome [online delta calibration tool](http://escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizarddelta.php).** I'd recommend using six-factor calibration with 10 probe points. This is the manual version of the auto-calibration technique built into dc42 RepRapFirmware, and it's practically magical compared to the routines built into username_2. Sidenote: Grid leveling can be a very useful technique for large printers where bed flatness is difficult to achieve. It's just very limited as a way to deal with delta calibration problems. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As a guess, you are using the wrong command. If set for n x n grid, you get 3 point measurement with G29, but that is not auto leveling, it is just setting Z height - based on average height at 3 points. What you need is `G32 S2` with `S2` to store result in EEPROM (and therefore you should have EEPROM enabled with auto leveling. It is also used to store endstop offsets). Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2016/07/01

<issue_start>username_0: **Before the question, here is my setup;** * Prusa i3 (with mainboard Mks Gen v1.2) * Repetier as slicer * Marlin source code My main task is to convert my 3D printer into a chocolate printer. I have replaced the filament extruder with a chocolate extruder. And it is there that my issue began. Because, the new extruder is stopping slightly off the y-axis when homing. It is going out of the standard 20x20 cm bed. The other X and Z axes are OK. So, I have played with the `#defines` explained below, but I couldn't even make any single mm difference by homing. They are all ignored when the printer is homing. It goes and rests on the hardware end-stops and stops there eventually. All I want 10 mm offset for Y axis. **Started with this;** ``` // Travel limits after homing #define X_MAX_POS 200 #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MAX_POS 190 <<<< (tested with 190 and 210) #define Y_MIN_POS 0 #define Z_MAX_POS 200 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 ``` **and this;** ``` // The position of the homing switches #define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used //Manual homing switch locations: // For deltabots this means top and center of the cartesian print volume. #define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0 #define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 10 <<< (tested with 10 or -10) #define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0 ``` I have also played with the **slicer tool (Repetier)** settings where homing related values are mentioned but no joy there as well. Any input highly appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: The Y-Max setting does not help, because it is the software end stop for the other end of the axis. The Y Home position also doesn't help as it only changes the coordinate that the printer assumes for when it hits the home position. That is used for printers (like deltas) that home to the max end switches. What could help is a little bit of G-Code right after the Homing. The Homing is a G28. Just add a G1Y10 after that. That will move your Y Axis 10 mm right after homing. So it will then be in the position that you want. If you then add a G92 then this position will become the home position for the print. So adding these two lines should fix it. Cura lets you edit these start G-Codes so that it then will automatically add the modified codes to all your prints. You can also try a G10 (with a firmware that supports it. For Details on G-Codes see: <http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode> Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Now I've finally had time to look into this, since I knew it somehow existed, but wasn't sure how it worked: Use the M206 G-code command in Marlin, Sprinter, Smoothie, or RepRap Firmware to offset the 0,0,0 coordinate of your printbed relative to the endstops. The reprap.org wiki page says: > > The values specified are added to the endstop position when the axes > are referenced. The same can be achieved with a G92 right after homing > (G28, G161). > > > With Marlin firmware, this value can be saved to EEPROM using the M500 > command. > > > A similar command is G10, aligning these two is subject to discussion. > > > With Marlin 1.0.0 RC2 a negative value for z lifts(!) your printhead. > > > We see, this basically is the same suggested by @LarsPoetter, but it comes with the great advantage that it can be saved to EEPROM, hence you don't need to add it every time or into every different sliccer (if I understand it correctly, - I haven't yet tried it myself) Let us know if this works for a permanent solution. Upvotes: 2

2016/07/03

<issue_start>username_0: It's criminal how wasteful the Stratsys uPrint SE Plus is with it's 'one use' modelling bases. Is there a reliable way to re purpose them? I have tried ethanol and acetone, but not had any luck.<issue_comment>username_1: People have done quite a bit of experimenting with reusing Mojo build plates over the years. The uPrint is likely similar. Basically a different adhesion layer is placed on the bed that has easier release. BuildTak has been used successfully. Gluestick or hairspray such as Aquanet will work and are water soluble for easier removal post-print. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: What I tried and worked is to apply water based normal Glue-stick on the tray and with few drops of water distribute it evenly across the tray surface, let it dry and then you are good to go! Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: By oversight in training, the operators of one of our UPrint SE Plus printers was simply placing the tray in the bath with the printed part. After it was in the bath, all support material was removed and they dried and reused the tray. This process was used for months before it was discovered, and they used the same tray for many prints. Has anyone else tried this? Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I've done the bit where you place the tray and part into the bath. Upon completion of dissolving, I then used a little dawn dish-soap to clean the tray, let it dry. I have access and used DI water for the hand washing (without any scrub or pad, just my hands). The trays worked fine. Someone else took over for a bit. I think they were trying to clean with Vinegar, and the trays have all turned white (not sure if that is from this?). So, they aren't being reused. I've started being a bit strategic with some print jobs. I'll print in one corner, then use cutters to remove the support without damaging the tray. Then I'll print on that tray in a different corner. Upvotes: 1

2016/07/04

<issue_start>username_0: I would like to obtain a 3D model of my insoles. I tried to scan it with 123D catch but finding reference points is difficult because the insole is black. How could I improve the scanning? I attach a photo of the insole to show its not easy shape. I thought about placing a grid of white spots on the surface, but will it be enough? Also, is it recommended to keep the camera still and rotate the object (I have a rotating stand) or should I move the camera? in the second case, the accuracy of the photos will be lower, while rotating 5-10 degrees the stand every time is extremely easy. As background should I use a checkerboard or something else not repetitive? I noticed that the insole has basically three different "levels", joined smoothly with each other. These "planes" are sloped the same way, so that if I change the pitch of the insole by about 10 degrees, they will be horizontal. Would it improve the accuracy? Edit: the insole is perfectly new, newer worn before. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ziQp5.jpg) **Update** I dotted the insole with white paint (the white eraser paint used in office and school) and I took a series of photos with the insole in top of a tripod, laying on a flat white cardboard support. 55 photos in total at 3 different elevations (side, medium, high). I also did a test with fixed camera and rotating object. Photoscan did not work well in general. Keeping the object fixed produces the best results, but poor. 123D Catch did a much better job! again with fixed object and moving camera. Still, treating the resulting mesh was difficult and the accuracy could be improved. Autodesk Remake 2017 worked VERY well, as you can see in the attached screenshot, and it allows the editing of the mesh to remove useless parts of the model. I haven't tried yet to process the photos with the camera fixed and the rotating object. I did the processing locally (it's slow!) with maximum details and resolution. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKzja.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Usually, the largest variability in 3D imaging is lighting, closely followed by the color scheme. You'll probably want to heed some of the following points: * No colors in the background/stand, keep to shades (unless otherwise specified for scanner) * No gradients. This applies to poor lighting causing a "gradient" light effect * Set the backdrop beyond the range of the scanner if possible (like with Skanect w/ Microsoft Kinect) * Ideally set the backdrop and especially the stand in contrast with the color of the object. You're right, a typical 3D scanner will have a difficult time with darker colors due to physics. However, there are no rules that say you can't change the color of the object. In this application, **I would suggest just going ahead and spray painting the object and scanning it**. Scanning the insole is going to require super tight tolerances in scanning as I'm assuming the insole is naturally worn due to use. Completely alternatively from 3D scanning, you could try using a 3D touch probe like on a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine). It will take longer, but a touch probe doesn't care what color the object is. **Update** The touch probe comment seems to be a hit, so I'll elaborate. My experience with touch probes comes only from manufacturing technology and can be found and in a variety of different machine tools: * Mills * Lathes * CMMs * Vision Systems * "Romer" Arms (aka portable CMM) You could probably get away with searching for a local machine shop (or job shop) and asking if they have a machine for reverse engineering. The quickest and easiest machine for reverse engineering (in my experience) is a portable CMM, I recommend Googling it. Alternatively, I've heard of people adding touch probes to their 3D Printers, but I haven't seen it before. In theory, a basic touch probe can easily be achieved by using a momentary switch. If you're good with programming and maybe a bit of Arduino, you could do the following: * Add momentary (normally off) switch to Arduino * Find a way of attaching the switch (below nozzles) * Connect to your 3d printer in your preferred method and preferred programming language. I've used the provided libraries in Python that come with installing MakerWare in order to connect to my MakerBot. * Write your routine to sequentially move the new probe in a grid pattern and then incrementally move the Z up until you get a signal from your Arduino that the momentary has been switched on. * For each trigger, append a simple text file with a new line containing the coordinates. * once complete, you should have a "point cloud" of your insole which, if formatted correctly, will be able to import into CAD software There are a few file types off the top of my head that can be used including: * .pts * .XYZ * .CSV Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I don't have enough reputation to comment. This is a short pointer to another webpage: <https://www.sculpteo.com/blog/2016/01/20/turning-a-picture-into-a-3d-model/> It may be helpful. Upvotes: 1

2016/07/04

<issue_start>username_0: I've been looking into this, but: 1. I'm not certain how to configure my multimeter; 2. I don't know how to keep the voltage going, and; 3. I don't know how to keep the multimeter connected to the VMOT? I'm told you're supposed to aim for about 1 A.<issue_comment>username_1: Generally speaking voltage on stepstick output should be around 1V. To imagine more or less what the current and what the voltage is, you can think about it in the same way as about water. The wire is more or less the same as the pipe. The voltage can be imagined as (sort of) the height from which the water flows but the current can be imagined as an amount of water which flows. To simplify things we assume that all our pipes are closed into circuit and we have pump/battery and we have a motor which is a reverted pump ;) and finally we have our stepstick which is a tap in our model. So no matter what the height (voltage) is we know that tap (stepstick) will pass some amount (current) of water. We can drive it turning tap or turning a potentiometer on the stepstick PCB. So we got it. Principles (deadly simplified) are now clear. [See here for more details](https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/voltage-current-resistance-and-ohms-law/voltage) Getting back to your question. You have to know what is your stepstick reference voltage. To make sure about that you have to check out resistor(s) next to main black element on stepstick board. There should be R100 or R200 which are very common. Now you should read data from motor label to know what is proper current for your motor and calculate voltage = motor\_current \* 8 \* resistance\_of\_resistor So now you know what is proper voltage for your motor and stepstick. You measure voltage between potentiometer and GND (see on the picture) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6LnbU.png) If you set and connect everything and start printouts you should check motor temperature. Use your finger. If you can touch motor and hold your finger not more than half a second then probably the voltage set on potentiometer is too high (motor can reach 80° Celsius and it's fine but more will shorten its life span) and you should reduce it a bit (reduce by 5/100 V). If you notice that motor growls or barks then your voltage is probably too low and you can increase it by 5/100V. Too high current will also reduce longevity of stepstick so cool them out with fan. **Please be noticed.** Z-axis motors will usually be not too hot as they work less than X and Y but as they are both connected to one stepstick so they need more current - set higher voltage there. Here is a [reprap.org site](http://reprap.org/wiki/Stepstick) to get basic knowledge about stepsticks. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I want to add some points and clarifications to the answer that @darthpixel already has given. Most information you need is in there, I want to give some more practical advice, since that is what I understand you're question is asking for. I'll start with some points on the more theoretical side, though: * notice that the Vref is not a voltage that is passed on to your motor. The described pipe analogy is very good, but the Vref is outside of this analogy. The reference voltage Vref is only used to set the current limit. This seems confusing, but has electronic reasons. One can understand the major (side-)benefit easily: Voltages are very easy to measure externally, because you connect your voltmeter in parallel. If you wouldd want to measure the current, you would need to get your ammeter in series with the circuit. * The stepsticks work by supplying the needed current for movement of the motor (current, because it works by creating magnetic fields), the voltage the stepstick supplies is 'just' supplied as high as needed to feed the desired current through your motor (determined by its resistivity/impedance). This just as an add-on. Now to the practical side and the application of darthpixel's answer and the above: You want to measure the reference voltage to limit the current that produces the torque, but also heats up the motor - let darthpixel's advice be your guide: if you can't touch it because it is too hot, then there is too much current, i.e. Vref is too high). To do so: 1. Set your multimeter to volts, range can be autorange or something bigger than 2V. 2. Connect one lead of your multimeter to the ground of your Prusa i3 controller board's power input (I use the screw that fastens the ground input of the RAMPS). The other lead goes directly to the center of the trimpot on the Stepstick. I took the best of my paint skills to create an image showing the process: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6cCzl.jpg) 3. Note the value you read (12V power has to be on) 4. Use an insulated screwdriver and turn the trimpot slightly. 5. Get a new reading by repeating the measurement process. 6. Repeat the whole process until you get the desired Vref. Warning: While I've had no problems turning the trimpot while everything was switched on (with my DRV8825 drivers), you should switch the power supply off when doing so. The described process allows only for a stepwise and rather slow setting of the Vref, but this is the easiest way I've found. I have read of people that use a crocodile clamp to attach the multimeter to the screwdriver for a readout while turning. If you don't have any idea whether you need more or less current on the motor at the moment, check your resistors on the board and calculate the Vref you should need (see darthpixel's answer for the formula). I would however just do what darthpixel already suggested: figure out the trimpot position by ears and touch: klicking motor: go to higher Vref. Can't touch the motor for more than some seconds: go to lower Vref. It might be a lengthy process, but in the end you'd need to do it anyway to get the best out of the printer! Upvotes: 3

2016/07/11

<issue_start>username_0: I'm currently designing a very large and complicated model, because it's large and should be strong enough completely hollow I want to print it with no infill to save material. However, there are some points in the model where there are indentations in the top shell. The bottom of those indentations are lower then the surrounding shell (pretty mush the dictionary definition of indentation) and so they are printed earlier with nothing to connect to. For example, in the image below from Cura's layer view you can see two round surfaces just hanging in mid air [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4Rrm.png) Obviously this can't be printed. What I'm currently doing is designing internal spaces inside the model where the internal space shell is holding the "detached" surfaces. What I want is a mostly automatic process that will generate a support structure inside where needed or that will generate infill but only between the floating surface and the nearest solid shell below it. Reorienting the model is not an option because a. it wouldn't fit on the build plate and b. even if it did it has a lot of internal parts with different orientations so it would just move the problem from one part of the model to another. I usually use SketchUp for designing and Cura for slicing so I prefer something I can do in Cura - but since I strongly suspect this can't be done in Cura I'll accept answers that work with other tools<issue_comment>username_1: I'm not really sure if i get you right but it seems like you gotta switch on support material. That's all. Correct me if I'm wrong but it sounds like very common situation where some parts are hanging like your yellow disks. Otherwise if your model is going to be closed at the bottom and at the top you can mock support on your own to have better control of it. How? Just add hollow cylinders under your disk so in fact cylinder will stay on the bottom layer then its walls will be support and finally your yellow disk will be a top cover of the cylinder. I hopw you can imagine that properly. Another way is to design support elements wich would grow out of walls and this way support your disks [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/p9Z7F.png) Maybe if you would explain a bit more, what the model is then I could support you more. **[edit]** To make it more automatic, you could try to use parametric CAD apps. I would say, Autodesk Inventor is one which I can suggest. You can use for example its Ribs functionality as support (varsion C). **[edit2]** After username_2's and tbm0115's comments I decided to fill some gaps in my answer. Here go pros and cons of options A, B and C. * **option A** The simplest one and more or less automatic one. Which means when user add support then this option will be a result of it. Of course if user needs to have support only for the disk but over the disk there will be... a "ceiling" then option A cannot use regular support as it will generate a support also for the ceiling. For such situation user needs to add a cylinder manually (filled one) or * **option B** User can add hollow cyliner (just its walls). This option can give similar or higher stiffness as regular support because solid walls increase endurance tahn thin support grid. * **option C** This option (my personal choose) has some advantages unavailable in A or B option. First - support doesn't have to have "ground" base. It means the yellow disk can really hang even if there is no bottom layer at all. Second - it joins walls with disk and walls together so the stiffness concerns other surfaces. Depending on needs the cylinder (option A or B) can be transformed into a cross or pillar (thinner than cylinder itself). It can be more taper expandint to the top or to the bottom. There could be even option where the above one would be joined with option C. So these (3) ribs would raise from the bottom but not from the walls. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: In [Slic3r](http://slic3r.org/), this can be solved by selecting a suited infill pattern and density, while enabling the [only infill where needed](http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/infill-optimization)-option: * Personally, I have found the [concentric infill pattern](http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/infill) to provide good support for models with internal overhang, although other patterns might work as well. I would try different patterns at ~30% infill and inspect the result in the print previewer. * The option of using [only infill where needed](http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/infill-optimization) will generate internal supports where needed without filling the entire model. That could be what you are looking for. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: In Cura 2 you can do several things: 1. Design internal support pillars, and make them an Infill Mesh via the Per-object settings. I suggest you also reduce the top/bottom thickness and Wall thickness of the infill mesh. 2. Enable Hollow Out Objects and enable support. 3. Enable gradual infill: increase the Gradual Infill Steps. Although this will still make infill everywhere it will drastically reduce the infill where it's less needed. Upvotes: 1

2016/07/12

<issue_start>username_0: At the moment, I am thinking about print fans that cool the plastic when printing. I am not asking about the design of the fanducts, which might be a whole book on its own. I would like to know how to find out the best application of print cooling for a given PLA filament, - that is fan speeds and setup in a slicer of your choice (to learn what the different options are).<issue_comment>username_1: I use side-wind to cool down model as simple as possible. It's just a 12cm in diam fan which is driven from arduino (the same contacts as the fan next to the nozzle). No duct, no other stuff. The only thing I consider in terms of making things better is to set up 2 fans which could coll down model from both sides. The issue is that when model is more complex then cool air is not reaching out oll these crannies and then on some corners I see the difference. Because of this issue I have to orient model facing to the fan in the way which will decrease such effect and I'm usually happy with results. If you are able to imagine how the airflow behaves then you can achieve perfection :) Of course fan is driven but to be honest I usually use 100% of its blowing power except with first layer which I usually don't blow at all. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Everybody's combination of fan hardware and print settings is different. Unless someone else has the exact same printer and slicer profiles as you, there's no way to really say anything like "use X% for PLA" or whatever. For practical purposes, you just empirically figure it out with test prints based on a few simple rules of thumb: * **Use lots of cooling for PLA, moderate cooling for PETG, and minimal cooling for ABS.** (Note that sometimes ABS does benefit from gentle airflow, and PLA shouldn't necessarily always just be blasted at max power.) * **Use less cooling on big prints where each layer takes a long time, more cooling on small prints where each layer is very quick.** * Axial / box fan? You'll probably want to run it at full power. Radial / squirrel cage blower? You may want to run lower power. * **Overhangs curling up or sagging? More airflow may be needed.** (Lower layer heights also help enormously.) * **Hot end temp sagging when the fan kicks on? Try less airflow.** (Or insulate your hot block better.) * **Weak layer bonding? Try less airflow.** (Or raise your hot end temp.) * **Small, fast prints getting mushy or corners "pulling in"? You need more airflow.** (Or lower heatbed temps.) * **Print warping / corners lifting off the bed? Try less airflow, particularly on the lowest few layers.** (Or higher heatbed temps, or a better adhesion layer, or less nozzle/bed gap for the first layer, or any other approach.) * **Fan too noisy? Try less airflow.** (Or get a better fan.) * **Filament stringing during travel moves? Try less airflow pointed directly at the nozzle.** (Or tune your retraction settings better, or get the moisture out of your filament, or lower hot end temp.) Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I use PLA and both my fans stopped working. I am not techy and couldn't figure out how to fix them so I set up a house fan that blew directly at the motor keeping it cool and it works as good if not better than the fans that came with the 3d printer. You cannot let your motors over heat because your filament will get curled up insize the nozzle.So try that before buying 3d printer fans. Upvotes: 0

2016/07/12

<issue_start>username_0: I am using a BAUDrate of 115200 since I cannot make a connection to my printer with the advised 250000 rate. Are there any downsides or limits I reach earlier given by the lower BAUDrate?<issue_comment>username_1: [Baud rate](https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/serial-communication/rules-of-serial) is the rate at which information is transferred in a communication channel, given as a number of bits per second (bps). So a baud rate of 250000 is capable of transferring a *maximum* of 250000 bits per second (31250 bytes/s). When working with serial ports, both ends of the communication line will have to "talk" with the [same speed](https://www.quora.com/How-do-we-connect-two-devices-with-different-baud-rates) - the same baud rate - to understand each other. So when using a baud rate of 11520 you will theoretically be limited to transfer data with about half the speed of 25000. If you are transferring large amounts of data, this might be a limiting factor for your application, but if you are not pushing the limits of your serial port, it probably won't matter at all. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If your printer doesn't have an SD card then the whole communication between computer and arduino is performed "live". There is kinda buffer of data which arduino can swallow. Then it needs to process it (and then can send some reports to your app) and then arduino is ready to get new "set" of instructions to work on. Now. If a baudrate is to low then there could be a situation when arduino finishes its job and has to wait for new bite of data. In such a situation you can see the printer pauses printing as it waits for signals from arduino as it waits for data from computer. That's more or less a downside of a low baudrate. If you have a SD card then the data is sucked from it but reports are still send by port to show results on screen. In such situation you can see sligtly late screen update. A screen means just a fun of live preview but breaking printing process (caused by late data send) means your hot nozzle stays over the same position which can destruct a surface or even fry up a plastic a bit. It also oozes and therefore creates lasting artifacts. Resuming - low baudrate is evil ;) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: If a GCODE line is about 30 characters (which is about the norm), you can send at most 420 of them per second at 115200 bps. If each GCODE prints 0.15 mm (for example in arcs), you would be limited to 63 mm/s in arcs/circles (straight lines are not an issue). If that's limiting for you, then you should find a way to set 250 kbps. You don't mention the firmware you use, but if you use Klipper, which compresses data over the serial line, connection speed is not an issue. Upvotes: 2

2016/07/15

<issue_start>username_0: I tried printing from an STL file on the *QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01 Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I*. They recommend using the MakerBot software with the *Replicator(Dual)* profile. The 3D print that I tried is messed up. The material used is **PLA**. Could you help me determine the cause? The following pictures give more details: (*All settings which are not shown are Makerware default settings*) [1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Abvj2m.png) **The 3D model** [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Abvj2m.png) [2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmWnrm.jpg) **The printed sample** [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmWnrm.jpg) [3](https://i.stack.imgur.com/viQoPm.png) **The Settings** [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/viQoPm.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3b7om.png)<issue_comment>username_1: Your print isn't cooling fast enough. With small, thin prints like this, PLA needs a fair bit of airflow to solidify before the next layer goes down. Your printer doesn't appear to have a proper print-cooling fan, so I have two suggestions: * Print two or even three of the part at the same time, spaced a fair distance apart on the build plate. This will give each of them time to cool. * Point a box fan into the front of the printer to get good airflow over the print. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I agree with [RyanCarlyle](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1511/irregular-3d-printed-part/1513#1513) on this: > > Your print isn't cooling fast enough. > > > Please regard [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/540/mushy-small-top-layers/541#541) of mine that covers a few options to help with the issue you're encountering. Pay particular attention to the *layer times*, and *active cooling*. The essential take-away from my answer (linked above) is this: * **Increase Layer Times**. Increasing **Minimum Layer Duration** (Device Settings -> Minimum Layer Duration) will provide the material with more time to naturally cool down closer to its environment's temperature. What this does is ensure that the latest layer is ***mostly*** solid before the machine begins printing the next molten layer. If you don't let the previous layer of plastic solidify enough, then plastic gets pushed/pulled around when the machine moves, adding more plastic; thus resulting in the issue you see in your images. The caveat with this approach is the obvious impact on the overall runtime of your print and should ideally be done more or less as a last resort. * **Active Cooling**. Active cooling is typically done using an additional fan, often times mounted directly in front of the extruder. The act of active cooling provides a quicker and more direct means of cooling the printed plastic. However, depending on machine design, you may see more variability on other places such as dependability in extrusion temperatures. This can be more detrimental with cheaper spools of PLA and especially poorly designed machines that can't properly maintain extruder temperatures. Active cooling is, however, very common and seems to work for the majority of 3D printer enthusiasts and doesn't impede on runtime. Upvotes: 2

2016/07/16

<issue_start>username_0: Because of the weight of my Z-axis and the relative ease of its motion, when the Z-axis motor is powered down the bed has a tendency to slip and fall down. Obviously leaving the motor powered solves this problem, but that is not ideal. I am looking for some kind of solution that passively stops the Z-axis motor from slipping; some kind of brake or clutch. Ideally I'm looking for something that I can add onto my current motors and that I could print myself. Commercial solutions (preferably ones that could be replicated with a 3D printer) would also make valid answers.<issue_comment>username_1: The simple way to do this is to use a self-locking screw pitch. Pretty much any single-start thread using a sliding nut cannot be back-driven so the load will not fall. Normal 8x8 trapezoidal thread screws will easily back-drive because of the steep pitch. Likewise, a worm drive between the motor and Z stage will hold the load. You would want to switch from screws to belts for the main motion stage in that case though, to avoid having too much total gear reduction. Both of these solutions will limit your maximum Z speed, of course. But they're simple and reliable. Clutches and brakes add a lot of complexity and must be actuated somehow. Designers who want the load to stay suspended almost always simply use single-start screws. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The first, the simplest and the chippest solution (as described by username_1) is to use self locking screw - no doubt. But I understand you already have your printer. Changing screw (thread rod) is a bit complicated I suppose. As it also needs to change "nuts" and change control settings and so on and so on. So in my opinion, in your case, it's much simpler to change motor to [one with break](http://pl.aliexpress.com/item/free-shipping-4-lead-Nema-17-Stepper-Motor-nema-17-step-motor-with-brake-CNC-Laser/32633409852.html?spm=2114.56010508.4.8.R5JQzM) or at least the one with permanent magnets which would hold some torque to support your bed. Another solution which would also not require to exchange your existing parts is to use kinda ratcher driven by [solenoid](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11015) which would work as a break when deenergized. Where to install it, how to ensure it will hold your bed or prevent your threded rod from rotating is another issue but all options I suggest doesn't need to destroy your existing construction. They all work as additional part. If you would be so kind and reveal some photos of your design, it would simplify to find proper application of solenoid break. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: It should be possible for you to add a counterweight. Pulley at the top, and a string / wire / etc up from the build platform, over the pulley, and back down to a hanging weight. You'll probably want two, one on each side. This won't directly prevent the motor from slipping - but it will lessen the amount of force trying to make the motor slip. Note that it will decrease the maximum z-axis acceleration downwards, but will increase the maximum z-axis acceleration upwards. Unfortunately, downwards is the direction that matters for a print. Also, you could try a circuit to short out the motor when the unit is powered off. The simplest thing would probably be a relay. Note that this could cause issues if the circuit fails in shorted position unless it also disengages the controller input. (This may not be enough to *prevent* movement, however, just slow it.) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: If your stepper motors have shafts protruding from both ends then it may be possible to simply 3d print a fixture that allows a thumb screw to be tightened and clamp down on the unused part of the shaft. This would however be a very manual approach and would require you to be mindful that the screw must always be disengaged just after motors are powered on.. Upvotes: 0

2016/07/17

<issue_start>username_0: My first and only 3D printer is a Printrbot Simple Metal, which has a hotend that doesn't expose any of its internal parts. Easy for beginners, I suppose: "The hotend is that tube that heats up the plastic and deposits it on the print bed." [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7y1yy.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwwW1.jpg) But I've been trying to learn more, and many hotends out there don't look quite as simple. My Printrbot hotend probably isn't as simple as it looks, either. What are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do? *(PS: This is a general question, not specifically about the two example hotends above.)*<issue_comment>username_1: **picture on the left** This hotend is made out of [PEEK plastics](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK) (beige). It can work in temperature upto 250C. As it is also good heat insulator then it doesn't need to have cooling fan. Red part on this picture is just a cover (insulator) of the heater which heatup nozzle (gold). Black are just wires and connectors. **picture on the right** This hotend is metal so it needs two things - cooling fan and heat barrier. Beginning fron the left - red wires are connected to (silver) block which is heater itself. Between the block and this round silver part (which is a heatsink) there is heat barrier (thin pipe which is poor heat conductor). Heatsink has plastic funnel (blue) which directs an airflow from fan (black) through heatsink. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This varies by hotend design. The following is a list of components which you might find in a typical hotend, but note that different designs may integrate these components to some extent. For instance, on the J-head the heat block, nozzle and heatbreak are all one and the same component whereas on the E3D hotends these are all separate parts. * **Nozzle**: This is the part where the filament comes out. It takes in the molten filament (typically as a bead of 1.75mm/3mm) and tapers down to the nozzle size (typically around 0.4mm). These are typically made of brass for its good heat conductivity, but brass is not suitable for printing abrasive materials (such as glow in the dark and metal-filled filaments) so sometimes (hardened) stainless steel is used. * **Heater Block**: Usually made from aluminium, the heater block joins the nozzle to the heat break and holds the heater cartridge and thermistor. * **Heater Cartridge**: most hotends use a ceramic heater cartridge, though some older designs use power resistors or nichrome wire. This component is, as the name suggests, responsible for heating up the hotend. The heat block usually clamps around the heater cartridge to provide good contact. * **Thermistor**: This part senses the temperature of the heat block. It is usually a small glass bead with two wires attached (which are typically insulated with glass fiber or teflon). For high-temperature printing, a thermocouple may be used in stead. * **Heat Break**: this is the part where hot meets cold. It usually takes the form of a thin tube and is made of stainless steel for its low thermal conductivity. The goal is generally to have the transition be as short as possible so as little of the filament is in a molten state as possible. It connects the heat block to the heat sink. * **Heat Sink**: the purpose of the heat sink is to cool down the cold side of the heat break. It is typically cooled with a fan. Most heat sinks also have a standard groove-mount for mounting to your printer. The heat sink usually has grooves to increase its surface area and cooling capability. * **Teflon Liner**: some hotends have a PTFE liner that guides the filament through the heat break into the nozzle. This makes it easier to print PLA, but compared to an all-metal hotend, limits the temperatures at which you can print (making it difficult to print PETG and impossible to print polycarbonate). The ubis hotend you mentioned is a bit simpler than this, and simply uses a big chunk of PEEK in place of the heat break/sink. PEEK has very low thermal conductivity and thus passive cooling is sufficient. However, PEEK limits the temperatures at which you can print. Here is an illustration outlining these components on an E3D V6 hotend: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjuNi.png) Note that in this image the Teflon liner only goes into the heat sink, and not into the heat break or block. This means the maximum temperature is not limited by the Teflon, but if it did go all the way in (as is the case with, for instance, the Lite6) then it would be. Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]

2016/07/21

<issue_start>username_0: I keep thinking it means that I can plug it directly into [my power supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) instead of running it though my RAMPs 1.4; is that correct? Here is the link to it, [200\*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad](http://www.robotdigg.com/product/209).<issue_comment>username_1: "Mains voltage" is the alternating current provided by your wall outlets (eg 120v in USA). In order to use a mains voltage heatbed in a 3d printer, you will need to wire up your controller to switch an AC SSR. That way, your low-voltage-DC RAMPS board can control AC current. If you plug a heatbed directly into a power supply, it will never stop heating, and may burn itself up or even cause a fire. Don't do that. Because mains voltage has enough voltage to kill you, it should only be used for STATIONARY components, such as the PSU supply wiring and Delta heatbeds. With moving beds, particularly Mendel/i3 style Y-beds, wire fatigue and rubbing can expose the electrical conductors and create a serious safety hazard. 200x200mm is a very reasonable size for a DC bed heater, so there's really no good reason to use an AC heater here. It's more complex and less safe. I recommend getting a different heater. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: **[edit]** I just noticed you've mentioned "mains voltage" **DON'T DO THAT** If there is 12V on your heatbed and your power supply gives 12 V then you can do it but there will be no control over your heating procedure. How does it work? RAMPS is connected to Arduino and then through Arduino to your computer. So applications can say to Arduino - hey, heat it up up to 70°C. So Arduino sends this command to RAMPS and RAMPS is switching on heating, meantime it measures temperature and sends this measurement to Arduino so it knows if your heatbed is already at 70°C or not. Having that knowledge Arduino can decide to still heat it up or rather switch the power of the heatbed off. If you connect your heatbed directly to your power supply then all of the above controlling sequence will not take place. Imagine to connect your lightbulb directly to the wall plug. You can do it but then you will not have any chance to switch it on or off. Right? ;) **So in my opinion - don't do that - don't connect your heatbed directly to your power supply.** Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: The heater pad described in your link is designed for 12 VDC or 24 VDC. Therefore, the term Mains Voltage in the description is misleading and probably wrong. Read the voltage and power requirements again and it appears that the heater pad can be connected directly to the RAMPS 1.4 without an external relay or SSR. Upvotes: 2

2016/07/21

<issue_start>username_0: My question is... Is there a SIMPLE/easy way to load TPU without tearing my printer apart to insert a hose that probably wont work anyways. It keeps curling up by the cog. I have read a few topics in other places but I didn't like the answers. Hoping you all might have a simple fix.<issue_comment>username_1: Loading TPU/TPE can be particularly challenging because many printer loading scripts run too fast for the soft flexible filament to effectively purge whatever normal filament you were using before. A couple tips: * Load with a slightly higher temp than either the TPU or previous filament require, so as to minimize the melt viscosity and reduce the force required. * Make a custom gcode file that contains a slower loading routine: wait for heat, then advance the extruder at a very slow rate for a long distance. Then you just "print" this gcode file whenever you need to load TPU. However, simply being able to load is not necessarily enough. **Not all extruders can reliably print flexible filaments, period.** The larger the gap between the pinch wheel and inlet to the hot end, the more likely the filament is to buckle and come out the side. You need to make sure this gap is as short as possible. If there is more than a couple mm of gap, you'll need to make gap-filler or print yourself a new extruder designed for flexibles. Printing slow and without major velocity changes can help, too. Use relatively low layer heights and low, constant feedrates so the extruder doesn't have to run fast or change pressure often. Harder flexible filaments will be easier to print if your setup is borderline. Ninjaflex is one of the hardest to print because it is relatively soft. Semi-flex type filaments are much easier to print if your hardware isn't set up optimally. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I've noticed that the first layer seems more prone to wrapping flexible filament around the drive, particularly if the nozzle is a bit on the low side. The extra extrusion force required to push the filament against the resistance of the bed means that the filament can't sustain enough pressure without folding. As a quick workaround for this, I lowered the extrusion multiplier to 60% on the fly for the first layer (as well as keeping the speed right down). Upvotes: 0

2016/07/22

<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to 3D print an iPhone case, however, I want it to print standing up. Is this possible to do? I have a picture of the case in the link below.[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dUYr0.png)<issue_comment>username_1: Yes this is possible. For an FDM/FFF printer, you'll need to print with supports. I might also recommend printing in PLA to minimize the chance of warping during the print (from experience). It might also help to slow down the feedrate to ensure smooth surface finish and avoiding delamination on such small layers. You'll probably see a decrease in the surface quality on the inside due to the printing of support scaffolding depending on the slicing engine you use. However ======= You'll want to pay attention to the strength of the case. If you print the case upright then it will be more susceptible to breaking without post-processing. Conclusion ========== Ultimately, if you can get away with it, it would be better to subtract the star instead of extruding it in the model. Then you can simply print the case back face down on the plate with much better results. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Not sure if this should be an answer or a comment, but not quite enough rep to comment, so... Here's an off the wall suggestion: As an alternate approach, assuming you're using FDM printing, could you print it with the star down on the bed in more than one step? 1. Print only the star. 2. Put suitable material around the star that is similar to the bed or usable as a bed material, possibly filling the voids as well. 3. Either print the rest of the case, hopefully with it adhering to the star, OR, print the rest of the case and use solvent or glue to adhere the star, (this latter step could be done with the star removed and printing directly onto the bed with the rest of the case only), OR, with the first star removed and the foreign support in place, reprint the entire case including the star - which would go into the empty space where the first star was printed and removed. The first star print then just serves to allow accurate placement of the foreign support if you need that. I've never tried this, so I can't offer assurances. The two step print, with the first star in place and the rest of the case printed after filling the empty space probably won't work if you need a heated bed, as for ABS. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: You have a few options. First. I would change the design. Why not make it negative space instead? Else as the other user mentioned, glue the star on later. Other options are, come up with a modular design so you do not print it as one piece. From there you can do some more advanced things such as print it with the star up and use HIPS as a support material -- assuming you have a duel extruder <http://reprap.org/wiki/HIPS> You could print it with normal support material, with the star up, and just accept that the left overs will scratch the phone, or spend a lot of time with some hand tools and sand paper. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Another good tip is to add some model supports directly into the model that you can just break off. Like some wings in an X along the corners of the case. So pressure is exerted more evenly across the case as it's being built. Using a big Raft will help too. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Consider printing in other planes - this model would be very suited to be printed at around a 45° angle. You will need support beneath it, but all visible surfaces should exhibit good quality as well as being more robust than when printed upright due to layer adhesion as pointed out by other answers. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: Support structure & Orientation ------------------------------- Carefully considering this model, It would be wise to print this on the back-plane with support and then post-process the print to prevent the walls separating from the back when dropped. By activating support, the proposed orientation is however quite possible. To reduce the chance to destroy the print, one has to choose [the right support material](https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52274-which-3d-printing-supports-to-use-pla-pva-or-breakaway) and geometry. In this case, a **soluble support** (PVA) would be best, but choosing a proper support structure like **tree support** originating from an area in front of the case reaching in, for example, [generated with Meshmixer](https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-create-custom-overhang-supports-in-meshmixer/) is also a very good solution. The orientation that is shown by OP actually has a very nice ability to hold onto the phone from the C-shaped cross-section. However, again this does demand some **post-processing** to strengthen the inter-layer bonding, preventing the case to split into an "upper" and "lower" section when dropped. Post processing --------------- Post-processing could take the shape of baking the part in the oven for about an hour to strengthen the inter-layer bonding. For PLA 90 to 100 °C in the oven is common, while ABS is a little higher. ABS would allow a quick acetone vapor smoothing, which melts the outer layer lines together smoothly and as a result increases the shell stability a little - you have to let it outside to let the soaked in vapor fully evaporate afterward though and you might lose smaller details. Upvotes: 1

2016/07/23

<issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to find a way of applying graphics to my ABS printed parts. I need a robust method which can produce a decent amount of detail with true color and legible fine text . I also was hoping to avoid the use of stickers and opt for something that's slightly more permanent. I was wondering if there are ways in which a vinyl decal or other types of decal material could be pressed into the face of a plastic part and then thermally fuse the two layers together using heat transfer method? Most of the surfaces I work with would be flat, but there are some parts that are slightly curved and it would be totally amazing if I could somehow apply graphics to those areas as well. Thanks for any hints<issue_comment>username_1: Industry has for years used a 'pad printer' to put images on complex shapes, like plastic or ceramic travel mugs, etc. I have observed these, but never used one. I see no reason why there couldn't be a DIY version made. Best of luck, and I look forward to seeing what you come up with! Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You really can't. That said the only group that has this kind of tech is .. Disney of all companies. That said their tech is good at simple shapes. Nothing more. I have seen some hydro transfer techniques. However that will not let you position a graphic as it is all done with a stretch transfer material ontop of a water bed. No one has a hand steady enough. Realistically you either need a high end full color powered base 3d printer, or simple designs that you can apply with you hand, or paint by hand. Well. Rereading your question... If you just want readable text. Then use a 2+ nozzle printer and print in colors that are contract. IE white model and black text. A lot more work but an order of magnitude cheaper than other options. [Disney article](http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160503-full-color-3d-models-made-faster-and-cheaper-with-computational-thermoforming.html) [Hydro transfer video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-2oaSfy8RE) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsAtW.jpg) Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I think this will work for you... **Laser Printer Image Transfer:** 1. Print reverse image with **color laser printer** on **regular paper.** 2. Apply Mod Podge or artist arcylic or artist matte gel to the 3d printed surface. You may need to sand it first to get it nice and smooth. 3. Apply same to picture and put picture, face down, onto the surface that you're transferring to. 4. Let dry. 5. Wash and rub off paper with water. 6. Apply protective clear coat...polyurethane or some other waterproof sealer. 7. ... 8. Profit This method has been popular in the DIY craft world for years so you should be able to google around for more tips. My wife transferred pictures onto coasters this way...pretty easy. Also, since paper is flexible, I think this would work on a simple curve. Hope this helps. :-) Upvotes: 2

2016/07/26

<issue_start>username_0: There was a contest to develop 3D printable files for the International Space Station's 3D printer. The winner got a 3D printer ... runners up got Fluke DVOM's and all entrants got a t-shirt. ISS 3D Print Contest They offer 3 materials: ABS, HDPE, and PEI+PC ... I'm not familiar with the last one. Anyone know? If found this material on Matweb: [PEI+PC Alloy](http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=949ca0fa6b1742bea8e8d26ea2fd3d48t) These links are thought to last a very long time. I hope many of you decide to upload a project into contest site and compete for the grand prize ... A sweet John Fluke DVOM. If nothing else a free awesome T-shirt.<issue_comment>username_1: PEI - polyethermide is a "common" coating for heated print beds. PC is so many different things, but in this context, it's likely to mean polycarbonate plastic. From what I've read, it's challenging to print with and especially challenging to get a good bond on the build plate. One reference suggests to use a PEI coated bed with a slurry of ABS applied prior to printing. As with so many things 3d printer related, many people have many different methods. The above one appears to be well received as a successful method. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Apparently the Made In Space printer can print an exotic alloy of PEI (ultem) and PC (polycarbonate). * Ultem is a super-premium material for industrial FDM printers, and requires a very high temp heated build chamber to print. Hobbyists use it as a build plate -- Stratasys uses it as filament in their most expensive FDM machines. * Polycarbonate is a specialty material that benefits from a heated chamber but is just barely printable on hobbyist level machines. (I print a fair amount of PC -- it makes ABS seem easy in comparison.) By alloying PC with PEI, they are presumably optimizing some kind of performance parameter compared to ultem alone or polycarbonate alone. Exactly what material properties they get will depend considerably on the ratio of the two polymers. Ultem is exceptionally heat-resistant, quite stiff, and extremely strong. PC is very heat resistant, and has exceptional impact toughness. Blends of the two can be somewhat stiffer than either, with most other properties resembling the weighted average of the two base materials. It really depends on the mix, which we don't know. This is analogous to the PC-ABS blend filaments we sometimes use. You get reasonably intermediate properties. So, it's basically super-filament that NASA might want to use to make "production" parts in space. I would expect a HUGE degree of warping if not printed in extremely well-controlled conditions. But the Made In Space printer was intensely engineered for this task, so I have to assume they have it all figured out. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Ultem 9085, the most common ultem resin used for AM, is a blend of PEI-PC, as seen here <https://www.sabic-ip.com/gepapp/Plastics/servlet/ProductsAndServices/Product/series?sltPrdline=ULTEM&sltPrdseries=Aerospace%20and%20Transportation&search=Search#searchresults>. Ultem is a trade name for PEI alloys made by Sabic and 9085, used in filaments made by both Stratasys and 3dXtech as the two most visible suppliers are both made with this same alloy. It is used for high temperature resistance and strength and needs to be printed at upwards of 300C in a contained environment. Source-Intern at Made in Space. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2016/07/31

<issue_start>username_0: I have a prusa i3 and have been trying to calibrate it. I have been trying to upload the new steps per mm and I get to done uploading. However when I go into Repetier host and type M503 to get the printers settings it still shows the steps as 100 for the y axis, it needs to be 96.1810. I am using ramps 1.4 I think, with Adrunio mega 2560. If I am remembering this correctly isn't there something you have to do when uploading a new sketch like hold the rest button or something?<issue_comment>username_1: [See here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8) for why you *shouldn't* calibrate your X/Y-steps. The value of 100 is probably better and will give more accurate prints overall than the value you came up with. When uploading new firmware you generally do not have to press any button. Pressing reset manually is only necessary when your upload method does not provide a reset pulse, but if you upload with USB this is not necessary. What is probably causing your problem is that the E-steps are stored in EEPROM, and uploading new firmware does not override the EEPROM settings. You should run a `M502` to restore the default settings from the firmware you uploaded, then `M500` to save them to the EEPROM. Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If your firmware doesn't store values you modified after flashing, for example using Repetier's option "Firmware EEPROM configuration", you probably didn't define EEPROM setting in Marlin. To do this you have to uncomment the option in Marlin's Configuration.h: ``` // EEPROM // The microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity... // M500 - stores parameters in EEPROM // M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily). // M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to. //define this to enable EEPROM support #define EEPROM_SETTINGS #if ENABLED(EEPROM_SETTINGS) // To disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out: #define EEPROM_CHITCHAT // Please keep turned on if you can. #endif ``` Check that the lines #define EEPROM\_SETTINGS and #define EEPROM\_CHITCHAT are both uncommented (i.e. defined) Upvotes: 1

2016/08/02

<issue_start>username_0: I often have trouble with prints being especially difficult to remove from the build plate on my Micro3D printer. My wife suggested using a hair dryer on the underside of the plate. I was initially appalled at the idea, but now I think she may be on to something. Is this safe? Good idea? Bad idea? Heresay?<issue_comment>username_1: That was a problem for me too. My M3d printer was getting stuck to the plate. However, I now print on painters tape, and I put down painters take on the bed. Then I glue stick the tape, and when I am done, I just pull it up. You should try it, because it will allow you to print with other then the m3d plastic. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Typically, people *cool down* their build plates to get parts to release, rather than heat them up. That said, I doubt a hair drier will get hot enough to do any damage to the build plate. You could try it with no harm done. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: It's what i do. Painters tape. are you using the m3d plastic? that's why. the coating is to make sure it sticks their only plan to get it off is to bend the plate a little bit. Hair drier won't end the world. don't hold the plate and hair dry it, that might hurt. But M3D sells spare plates it you destroy it. Try it out, tell us what happens. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I agree to Tom's first part of the answer, usually you'd cool down the plate to loosen the print. This is reasoned by the shrinkage of the builplate while the print stays extended. The strain put into the interface helps to get the print of. Warming the plate could essentially do the same, but since you deposit a warm filament, one would assume that by warming up you will reduce the strain that has been built up by the regular cooling of the filament already. I guess an uneven heating with a hairdryer will probably introduce uneven strain or evan some kind of warping of the buildplate that puts more strain to the interface which makes your approach work. If you want to test whether you have some local deformation you could characterize this by reflecting a laserpointer from the heatbed and marking the reflection on a rather far away wall for some controlled positions you can get the laser in (by say putting it on a photography tripod). The change of this reflections towards each other could tell you about the deformation. I also agree that most of the hairdryers around would not be hot enough to be a worry, but since most of the Micro3D is made from plastic I would put twice the time into figuring out if that is really true. Just for the fun of it, you could put an ice cube next to your finished print if you make sure that molten water will not go anywhere it is not supposed to be. Maybe this lifts off the print as well. However, I do not recommend doing this, of course. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Before I got an aftermarket heated print bed for my M3D, I regularly used a hair dryer to pre-heat the build plate up to 60-70 °C before printing with no ill effects. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: cold wind can help to acceleratory cool down and dry the build plates to make it easy to part them. Upvotes: 1

2016/08/03

<issue_start>username_0: I just received my Wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS. Everything prints and functions fine via SD card and the display but when connecting to my Mac computer the printer seems to restart. * Baud Rate: 115200 * Serial Port: `/dev/tty.wchusbserial1420` Any ideas what it could be?<issue_comment>username_1: I don't know that printer. But Arduino has a feature that a USB connection causes a reset. The Idea is that this helps when doing software update as the Arduino Boot loader will be active for one second after that reset. This can be disabled, but needs hardware modification. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: That is normal on most printers. They restart if you connect. As you have an SD card slot I would recommend using it rather than your computer. If your connected computer goes to sleep it would also reset the connection after wakeup. Upvotes: 1

2016/08/04

<issue_start>username_0: I was [advised](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1536/what-does-uses-mains-voltage-mean-on-this-200200mm-square-silicone-heater-pad) that it would be possible to use an AC SSR to wire up a Mains Based heat bed. Any idea how one would do this with a RAMPs 1.4 board; Also, what do I hook a heated bed of this sort into?<issue_comment>username_1: A link to the bed you have/are buying would be very helpful. AC heated beds exist but are fairly uncommon. As [one of the answers](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/1548/1404) in the question you linked notes, the heat bed is probably not actually intended to use the 110 VAC/220 VAC directly from the wall and instead needs either 12 VDC or 24 VDC. If the current it needs is less than 11 A, then it can be connected directly to port D8 on the RAMPS 1.4, where it will take power from a suitably powerful 12/24 VDC supply connected to the 11 A input on the board. A more powerful heater will need an external relay/MOSFET/etc. to control. If you do, in fact, have an AC bed, you can connect a SSR like [this](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0087ZTN08) to either D8 or D9 on the RAMPS (D10 could be used, but it would need a supply connected to the 11 A input) making sure the polarity is correct, as long as your RAMPS DC supply voltage is within the input range of the SSR. The linked one is 3–32 VDC, so almost any supply voltage compatible with the RAMPS will work. The AC outputs of the SSR should be connected in series between one side of the bed and the AC hot wire, with the AC neutral wire connected to the other side of the bed so most of the circuit isn't carrying high voltage when off. [This](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiEwNf1H_Tc) video has some useful hints. However, while an AC bed can get you faster heating, will let you use thinner wires, and avoids the need for having a big DC power supply, I would recommend against using a mains voltage bed if you don't know what you're doing—a great deal more care must be taken and there is a serious possibility of injury. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If you take a kettle lead with a wall plug and cut off the other end, it will expose 3 wires: earth, live and neutral. These are [color coded](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_wiring) depending on your country, usually earth is green (possibly with yellow stripes), neutral is blue, black, grey or white and live is brown, red or black. The SSR should have 4 terminals: 2 terminals for the switched load (which are interchangeable) and 2 terminals that connect to your electronics, which should be marked negative and positive. These terminals should connect to the negative/positive heated bed output of your electronics. The terminals of the SSR should be clearly marked, and you can verify which terminal is what from the SSR's datasheet. Typically, your heated bed will have two wires for power (which are interchangeable). One of the wires should be connected to neutral. The other wire should go to one of the load terminals of the SSR, while the other load terminal of the SSR should connect to the live wire. It is also acceptable to do it the other way around (neutral to the SSR and live directly to the bed) but this is slightly less neat. Finally, and this step is *extremely important*, the earth wire of the plug has a protective function: should something fail, metal parts of your printer may become electrified, and shock you when you touch them. To prevent it, you should electrically connect exposed metal parts of your printer (such as the frame, heated bed plate, power supply case, etc...) to earth. This provides a path for the current to flow (and trip the protective RCD breaker) should something go wrong. I would further recommend that you protect your heated bed (particularly if it is a high power model) with a bimetallic thermal switch. These are available in a variety of ratings, and will switch the power to your heated bed off when it goes over a certain temperature. This switch should be wired between the relay and the heated bed, and be mounted on the heated bed so it makes good thermal contact. If you plan to print with the heated bed at 110C, you might get a 120C or 130C thermal switch. As mains voltage can be deadly, you should take appropriate precautions: *never* work on the printer while it is plugged in, cover any connections (in particular, make sure you buy or print a cover for the SSR's terminals and wrap solder joints in heat shrink or electrical tape) and always treat wires coming out of the SSR as live (even if it is switched off, some current can still flow). Upvotes: 2

2016/08/04

<issue_start>username_0: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fpc5P.jpg) By what process does the Prusa i3 determine it's home position? I have a feeling that it works like this, but I'm not entirely sure about it: 1. If none of the end stops are activated; assume you are somewhere between Max-X, Max-Y, Max-Z and the point 0,0,0. 2. do 1. For axis in Axies 1. If axis endstop not signaling 1. subtract 100 steps from axis. 3. while endstops are not signaling, or if point 0,0,0 not reached;<issue_comment>username_1: It works like you describe, but it does not move all axes at the same time. It first moves the X-axis, subtracting steps while the X endstop is not pressed. When the X-axis is is homed (the X-endstop is gets pressed) it repeats the procedure for the Y-axis and finally the Z-axis. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You have the endstop which sends a on or off to the controller board. The boards firmware knows if it is a close or open switch. Lets assume pressed is on and unpressed is off. When the axis is at home it will read as ON. The firmware then will not allow the axis to move in the direction you have designated is the Home direction. Now this is probably where you got confused. You in fact are the one to open a code file, and say what direction is home. When your turn it on the first time, chances are you have done it wrong on at least one. Then you will frantically go and manually press it yourself as your printers hotend crashes HARD into the bed.. All of us have been there ! Generally Prusas use ramps 1.4 <http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4> Your code is your firmware. Usually you just edit a header file (single file). These files are heavily documented, depending which you use. Your seller might provider you with a preconfigured header file. Will note that yes, if the endstop slips or is not position right, the printer will crash into it self. Usually no damage, but it is a very unpleasant thing to happen. Also worth noting that some firmware will force you to home before you move. Others will let you crash the printer on the opposite side. Just a motor, will do whatever you tell it to. In short. You tell it how the endstops work and what direction is home on a printer. Upvotes: 1

2016/08/05

<issue_start>username_0: Hello I have a Prusa I3 I am currently able to get press fit parts with my current settings. I am using Ramps 1.4 hardware and repetier software and cura as my slicer. I am printing with a .2 mm layer height right now but would like to get a better number such as .1 or .09. When I try to print with say .1mm layer height in the middle of the print the filament stops coming out of the nozzle. However I can still see the gear moving. I have check some sites that I have been using for troubleshooting but I haven't found anything that fixed the problem yet. How or what setting need to be changed in order to print with better resolution?<issue_comment>username_1: There are no settings that you should need to change. Rather, it seems like you are suffering from another issue that is not directly related to layer height. It is possible that your hotend's heat sink is not being cooled enough, causing heat to migrate up and soften plastic in the heat sink, ultimately jamming it. Depending on your hotend's make, the heat sink should be cooled by a fan that is always on. Normally, the plastic being fed into the hotend provides some cooling, but printing at a thinner layer height decreases this effect because less plastic is fed into the hotend per time unit. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I agree with Tom's answer, it seems that temperature slowly makes it's way up your heat sink and softens the plastic which causes the jam. Even though you should first check your hardware to make sure that hotend cooling is installed correctly, **to directly address your original question** as to what setting needs to be changed, I would suggest lowering your printing temperature. When printing finer layers, the plastic moves slower in the hotend, spending more time in the heater block, possibly making your current temperature setting too high for this resolution. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Yes, That is what happens. There is a reason that most people cannot break the .1mm barrier. You have several things happening. First if you are using a bowden. Good luck. The bowden treats plastic a lot like a spring. Just wont be able to generate a consistent pressure. The direct gear will have the same issue. You are trying to spit out 0.1mm on a 0.5mm nozzle. Factor in some simple drooling and your dot of plastic is missing. You wouldn't think it matters, but when we are using such tiny amounts of plastic, and consistently throughout the print, it makes for a really bad result! Then you have more issues. This is why you jam. You now have a lot of plastic sitting, not being expelled. When you go from 0.2mm to 0.1mm you now take twice the time. Considering the printer was made to print at a 0.7 to 0.2 range (more or less). We are talking about a fair time for this plastic to sit molten, waiting to come out. Some have mentioned the heat crawl, but not exactly what happens or a solution. Now you do a retraction, and you just retracted molten plastic. Which gets jammed. Or your plastic cooks, carbonizes faster and clogs your hotend. Sad times! What you can do is ... turn off retraction, and then increase your flow / extrusion multiplier to account for the extra drooling. Part will have a lot of stringing, but a quick burst from a lighter fixes most of that. You can get better results with a hotend that has a fan and heat sink / break. I like the e3d hot ends. That will stop the heat crawl. I will note that Makergear once sent me an experimental 0.1mm nozzle. It could not build enough pressure to expel the plastic. I got one tiny bunny, half melted before it clogged from aforementioned carbonization. Sounds like to me you really just need a form 1, or you are a tinkerer like me. Making the printer go twice the speed is much more fun than high quality. Upvotes: 1

2016/08/06

<issue_start>username_0: I own a delta 3D printer. The problem is that, at the beginning of a print the extruder outputs dirty filament. I want a clean filament flow at the start of my prints! How can I make the hotend exit the print surface (glass plate) by 10mm, extrude the bad filament and go back to printing again? Can this be done with G-code? My Z high is 190 mm and the glass plate diameter is 120 mm. I'm using Marlin + Ramps 1.4. I'm using Repetier-Host and CuraEngine as Slicer, but I really would like a G-code that can work on multiple environments like Cura and Repetier. I just want to add it to the start G-code and print!<issue_comment>username_1: A lot of slicers will have a Wipe option. Here are some examples: * See [Unofficial Simplify3D Documentation](https://jinschoi.github.io/simplify3d-docs/). Go to the section talking about *Wipe Nozzle*, under the heading **Extruder Tab** > > Two more ooze-fighting options are Coast at end and Wipe nozzle. Coast turns off the extruder the specified distance before it normally would, to drain what would have oozed as the end of a line. This can help with ooze-induced blobs at the end of lines, but if turned up too high will lead to gaps in your print walls. Changes to this setting will be visible as gaps in the g-code preview. > > > Wipe has the nozzle retrace over the start of a perimeter line at the > end of a perimeter for the specified distance with the extruder off, > to leave any ooze behind before proceeding. It is similar to Coast in > that it moves the extruder without extruding, but wipe occurs after > the end of the line while coast occurs before. > > > * Slic3r has some sort of coasting. But I think in their docs the option is there: [Slic3r Manual - Fighting Ooze](http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/fighting-ooze) > > Wipe before retract - Moves the nozzle whilst retracting so as to reduce the chances of a blob forming. > > > As you asked for G-Code here you go: * [Reprap Forum - Wipe nozzle via GCODE](http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?4,620368) Example ``` ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} ;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line ;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops M117 Auto-level... G29 ;auto-level ;G92 Z-.01 ; Lower = Z Pos, Lift = Z Neg M117 Preparing... G1 Z10.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F100 E30 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} ;Put printing message on LCD screen M300 S900 P160 ;start beep M300 S1000 P160 M300 S2000 P160 M0 ;Wait for the user M117 Printing... ``` * [Lulzbot forum - Start GCODE Script for Wipe](https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?t=2921), in particular [this post](https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?t=2921#p17782): Example ``` G91 ; switch to relative positioning G1 Z10 ; safe raise of z axis to ensure probe doesn't hit bed clamp G90 ; switch back to absolute positioning G28 ; home all axes G29 ; level print bed G1 X298 Y137 Z2 F5000 ; move to wait position right hand side of the table G1 Z0.4 ; position nozzle G1 E25 F300 ; purge nozzle M400 ; wait for purge to complete G1 X285 F1200 ; slow wipe G1 Z0.5 F1200 ; lift ``` That should get you started. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: You can achieve this using the `G1` command. I don't know your exact printer, but you should be able to use something like this (add to the start G-code in your slicer): ``` G1 X0 Y62 Z0.2 F9000 ; Move slightly past edge of bed G92 E0 ; Zero extruder position G0 E1 F100 ; Extrude 1mm of filament G92 E0 ; Zero again G1 X0 Y0 F9000 ; Move back to center of bed ``` The first line moves the extruder to slightly past the edge of the bed (since the diameter is 120, the radius is 60, and 62 is slightly past the maximum radius). I've set Z to 0.2mm to avoid hitting the plate, but you might be able to lower this. The next 3 lines zero the extruder position, extrudes 1mm of filament, and resets it to zero (when starting a print the slicer expects E to start at 0). The final line moves back to the bed center. This might not be neccesary (you might be able to replace this line with just `G1 F9000` to set the feedrate back to something that makes sense for travel moves) because you don't need to move back explicitly: the slicer will take care of moving the head in position to start the print. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Slic3r, and all other slicers that I saw, have an option called `Skirt` that enables your printer to print a number of lines around your object before it starts printing the object itself. This should ensure that both the nozzle is filled with filament and the printer got rid of any burned / dirty filament when it starts printing your object. If you use Slic3r as standalone, you have to activate expert mode in the preferences. If you use it through Repetier-host it should already be in expert mode. You can see all available options in the [Slic3r documentation for Skirt](http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/skirt). Upvotes: 3

2016/08/07

<issue_start>username_0: I am looking to print an enclosure, which will have a PCB inside with some LED indicators. I was wondering if it is possible to 3D print the enclosure such that the following look can be achieved? What material and technique? When LEDs are off, it looks something like this: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUN2v.jpg) WHen the LED turns on, it looks like this (illuminated symbols): [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/X9GuC.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Achieving this with 3D printing would be quite difficult, and you might be better served by creating this effect some other way (I would personally recommend getting some inkjet transparencies and stacking a few layers together: an entirely black layer, and a few layers with the symbols in negative space). One way that you *might* be able to achieve this using just a common FDM printer is to print the part face down, and printing just a single layer or two that covers the entire face, and then printing more layers that cover everything but the symbols. However, those symbols look small and detailed and you might not be able to reproduce such detail. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: So you want a translucent case which can hide the LEDs when they are off, but show then when they are on? I agree this might not be the best fabrication method for this effect. I would print a case with a window and use a tinted laser cut plexi glass. That said, it wouldn't be that hard. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KaC1K.jpg) There are a few catches. First you will have 3d printing texture. The lines and ribs. So there will be light distortion. However it can be minimized by either using a resin 3d printer with ultra high quality, or by having the window side printed on the bed, avoiding the ribbing. Albeit it is still not perfect. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrQyS.jpg) I would look at translucent materials such as Tglass. Using these clear materials you can either ally a window tinting yourself or find a seller that has a very dark, yet still clear material. This will allow the effect where a LED is off and you cannot see it, and when it is on - see it. <http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html> Tglass can be treated to be extra clear. Looks like they treat their material with XTC-3D for very translucent effects. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/S4W9j.jpg) <http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html> There are other options such as Resins, clear ABS, and PolyCarb (high temp) All that said. Laser cutting is really what you want. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: You can print the "lid" in translucent (gray) and stick a piece of laser printed transparency film under it with the symbols (print it "negative" so the symbols are transparent and the rest is black). Depending on the quality of the printed black you might want to stack two printouts to minimize light sipping through the black areas. A divider separating the leds underneath ensures that only one symbol lights up. This will work better the better surface quality the "lid" has. Upvotes: 1

2016/08/09

<issue_start>username_0: Related to an issue I had in [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1205/increased-issues-with-filament-grinding), where the PTFE tube feeding my filament to the metal tip of the extruder clogged and became discolored: what are the advantages and disadvantages of changing out my extruder (Mk10 on a FlashForge Creator X) for an all-metal solution like the one advertised [here (by Micro-Swiss)](https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/micro-swiss-mk10-all-metal-hotend-kit). I understand that the conversion would allow me to print higher-temperature materials (like nylon), but I'm also trying to figure out the trade-offs with regard to printing PLA/ABS parts.<issue_comment>username_1: In general, metal extruder without PTFE feeding is useful when printing with materials that require high temperature to melt: 300oC and above. [Polycarbonate](http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate) with recommended printing temperature at up to 310oC is a good example. PTFE melting point is around 320oC, but it may become soft at much lower temperatures, according to RepRap wiki: <http://reprap.org/wiki/PTFE> From the other hand, all-metal extruder lacks advantages that PTFE ones can provide, the most important of them is the ability to have longer retracts without risk of clogging the filament tract. This is mostly important for users with Bowden-type extruders as well as for printing with soft or stringy filaments. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: This is a good question to make a comparison table. All-metal hotends Vs. PTFE liner hotends. All metal: * Works well for high (+250ºC) temperatures filaments like nylon or PC. * No need to replace the PTFE liner (pretty obvious). * Retraction performs worse. * Plastic can get stuck to the inner walls. This can lead to clogging, more likely when changing from ABS to PLA (higher temp plastic to lower temp plastic). PTFE liner hotend: * Limited working temperature. Above 250 PTFE will start to degrade. * PTFE tube needs to be replaced more or less often, depending on the use of your printer. * Retraction performs better. * Plastic is less likely to get stuck in inner wall (PTFE is very nonstick). * When using PTFE liner, the plastic is melted very close to the nozzle. Unlike other techniques, in FFF/FDM 3D printing this is more desirable. E.g. to avoid 'heat creep', for a better flow control and more accurate output dimension. Of course there are more points to compare. Please comment to add any other useful point. Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: In addition to the filament printing temperature limits of PTFE-lined hot ends, and higher risk of jamming with all-metal hot ends, there is a significant potential print speed difference. PTFE is an insulator and putting an insulator between the heater and incoming filament will considerably slow the speed at which it can be melted. In very rough terms, a 1.75mm filament extruder with a 4x2mm PTFE liner can only extrude about half as fast as an otherwise-identical all-metal hot end. (On the order of 3-4 mm^3/sec PLA through the PTFE-lined hot end vs 7-10 mm^3/sec PLA through an all-metal hot end. It does depend on a lot of factors like nozzle size though.) This is perhaps not too important for relatively slow printer styles like a Mendel/i3, but filament melting rate is the primary practical limit to print speeds in high-performance printers like Deltas or CoreXY machines. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Just bought an all metal heat break, and I either have to upgrade my existing fan (technically possible, but currently infeasible), or reinstall a PTFE-lined heatbreak. Printing with a Tevo Tarantula. From what I've heard, basically, for PLA and other low-temp plastics, don't use all metal heat breaks. You need a PTFE breaker in there. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Something not being considered here is where the PTFE liner terminates relative to the tip. On the latest V6 J-head that I recently purchased on ebay, it only runs to the top of the M6 Stainless heat-break, about 25mm away from the tip. I use this on my Mendel Max, with both PLA, and ABS. No real problems, running at about 70mm/s, but I have had heat-creep jamming problems when the nozzle became blocked, which I put down to cheap grade filament. On the Wanhao i3 mini, that I recently dismantled, with a similar looking hot-end, the PTFE liner runs all the way to the brass tip. This particular printer only works with PLA. I am yet to put it through its paces, to discover the benefits/negatives of this difference. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: Nowadays you don’t need all metal hot ends if using Capricorn PTFE tubing rates at 340 °C. Works great, runs smoothly, problem free and prints nylon without a glitch. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: Yeah, Yeah... Old topic I know, but still an ongoing topic for new and old hands alike. "**All metal or PTFE lined**" along with "**Bowden or Direct drive**" Those are the questions! This is a very unusual hobby, quite literally every possible modification, upgrade, printer setting, slicer setting, bed adhesion issue... Basically anything that can be altered at all **IS SUBJECTIVE** to the individual! Forget printer brand, filament brand, model, clone, genuine etc. Just what works for one person and gives outstanding prints may not work as well or at all for someone else with an identical setup. There are just too many variables - Ambient temperatures, air pressure, humidity, geographic location, age of filament before you buy it, shipping and import method of filament, batch to batch variation of filament & the list goes on an on! Compared with the laundry list of setup and printing problems to choose from these questions are surprisingly easy to answer! Firstly: **Bowden or Direct drive extruder.** A. Personal preference of the builder/user. B. Suitability for your majority printing work. I'm not starting an argument about which is better because **neither one is**! They both have advantages and disadvantages. Bowden = faster overall printing speed before undesirable aberrations start to become noticeable Direct = Slower printing speeds, but more suitable for flexible materials and easier/faster setup especially for newbies. Personally I use a Bowden setup, mostly because I need good quality large format prints in the shortest time possible, i occasionally use flex filament but not often enough for a direct drive printer to be worthwhile investment (*and with a little tweaking can still get very good results!*) Secondly: **PTFE lined or all metal** This comes down to one question alone! Do you intend printing **exclusively** with materials that require hotend temps above 250 °C? If the answer is "No" do not waste your money on an all metal hotend! Buy a couple of good quality [plated brass nozzles](https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/plated-brass-wear-resistant-nozzles) and high quality Bowden tubing or heat break liner (and still have change for lunch and a pint or two on your way back from the shop) Why? Simply because getting them to work properly for lower temperature printing is nothing short of an absolute "pain in the proverbial"! On more than one occasion I have been sucked into the hype that all metal is an "upgrade" from PTFE and quite simply it just isn't! Most of the companies that market them as an all round upgrade want only one thing your hard earned £££! So instead of marketing them as the correct hotend for high temp printing they market them as a general upgrade part. Which isn't the case! Now if you think that you may want to try out a little ABS or nylon, even an occasional high temperature print here and there then a much better solution is to buy high quality professional PTFE liner such as the [Capricorn XS series](https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/XS-Series-PTFE-Heat-Break-Liner-for-1-75mm-Filaments/p/101717447/category=23214267). For normal printing below 250 °C will last 3x or longer than a standard PTFE liner and is also safe to use up to 300 °C for short periods and costs just a few £s more than your regular liner! Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_8: My <NAME> had an all metal hotend included and I never ran into any issues only printing PLA and PETG, most of the time I was even able to pull out the filament while the printer was cold. After I upgraded to an E3Dv6 clone with PTFE lined heatbreak I started to have issues because of the filament getting stuck where the Bowden tube and the heatbreak connected, so I recently replaced it with an all metal heatbreak again and the issues instantly went away. Upvotes: 0

2016/08/10

<issue_start>username_0: I'm having a really hard time printing on my aluminum heated bed... Cleaning it just results in it being scratched (trying to scrape dried hairspray/glue/etc off) and I don't think it is particularly flat either. I was thinking of stopping by the dollar store on my way home and getting several picture frames and using the glass from them as interchangeable glass beds - this would also make it easier to take them off the printer to clean without needing to re-level the bed every time as the aluminum base would stay-put. Do you guys think the quality of it would be okay to print on? (withstand the heat, be flat enough, etc) I'm planning to coat it in purple-glue-stick as I have heard that works well for adhesion purposes. For reference: Printing PLA, Prusia i3 printer.<issue_comment>username_1: Picture frame glass (generally float glass) will work well enough, but count on it eventually cracking/getting chipped. It's always very flat (due to the way the production process works). Taking it up to 100-110C for printing ABS should not be a problem, but you'll want to avoid sharp changes in temperature, and should be careful that your prints don't adhere too well: I've had PLA/PETG prints take out pieces of glass with them due to the force required to remove them from the build plate. You might want to try without any (or very little) adhesive first, and make sure your nozzle isn't too close to the build plate. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I've done it. Yes it will print just fine. Treat it like any other bed surface BUT... A few points to keep in mind and to consider. Normal glass * It will break fast. Had mine last a few weeks. * It is not strong. If your Z endstop fails then it will crack * Higher thermal expansion than other options. So parts pop off bed when it cools While we are talking about beds. Lets talk about the other options. A popular plate is Borosilicate. Here are a few points about that as a bed. * Borosilicate is a lot stronger. * Borosilicate in my experience can chip / flake. I had it happen to one of mine, never found the missing glass.. * It also has other properties such as high temp resistance and low thermal expansion. Another option, my favorite is Tempered glass. I have never had it flake apart as I try to remove from the bed. Also it is stronger, doesn't shatter into razers. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DPbzr.jpg) You can get more comparisons at [Here](http://www.ehow.com/facts_5786607_borosilicate-vs_-tempered-glass.html) So go for it! But I would let it cool then remove parts. Be EXTRA careful removing the part from the bed. Oyster shuckers and the like are likely to break the bad while you handle it (Bad!) I will say in the long run a tempered plate will save you money. I have had some plate of tempered for over a thousand hours of printing on some of my printers. Including my Mendlemax and Dozens of HARD head crashes. Same plate from 2013! Also check the local hardware store. That is where I got my glass. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I am using a glass plate from a decommissioned flatbed scanner I got from the electronics trash. I cut it to size with a glass cutter and it is doing a swell job at 68°C for my PLA. The print sticks superbly during printing and almost pops off the buildplate when cooled down to less than 40°C. I am very happy with the glass as a buildplate for PLA, especially because it came for free. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I was driving down the street the other day and saw a very nice OLD and LARGE mirror on a lawn at a garage sale. It was about 36" x 28". Sale price? $5.00 I'm going to be using it for my MPCNC machine to allow me to print large prints on glass. The reason I like the OLD mirrors is that they are much thicker than the new ones and therefore more durable and solid. If you're trying to stay economical, you can probably find an old mirror at a garage sale somewhere. That being said, I currently print on glass with a heated bed and spray it with Aquanet Hair Spray. I have discovered that with PLA, if I heat the bed to 60 Celsius before printing and then allow it to cool down to room temperature before removing the print job, I am able to very easily remove items from the glass. Very little effort. So, in summary, I'd recommend using Glass or a Mirror as your surface, heating it to 60 celsius before you print, spray it with aquanet hair spray, and you'll be glad you did. Good luck. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I use normal glass plates on top of my heated borosilicate glass bed all the time. Advantages: * very cheap (about €3 where the borosilicate glass bed of my printer costs about €80 to replace) * no need to wait till the bed cools down to start a new print. Just put on an other sheet of glass and start over. (I use 3dlac to make my prints stick better so trying to remove a print from a hot borosilicate glass bed often results in a chipped glass) Upvotes: 1

2016/08/12

<issue_start>username_0: When using a heated bed with your printer, I have seen claims of running temperatures of 90c throughout the print. That seems like a fairly high power use to keep a large slab of, say, aluminium at 90c for long print times (ie multiple hours). Is there a common 'sweet spot' for operating temperature? Does it depend on material? Is a heated bed required?<issue_comment>username_1: Googling "what temperature for different filaments" gives a few good links, but the top link looks golden. <https://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide> They have temperature guides for both extrusion temperatures and heated bed, as well as suggestions for better adhesion. I'm not that experienced, but their information is similar to information I've seen elsewhere. Their suggestion for PLA is 215-235 degrees Celsius and a bed temperature of 60 to 80 degrees. That sounds a bit hot to me but every brand (and type) of filament will perform best at different temperatures. I've had problem getting nice bridges at 210 degrees, but had excellent results at 190. For ABS they say 230 to 240 degrees with the bed at 80 to 100. Use these values as a starting point, when they fail you make an educated guess about what went wrong and adjust (one parameter at a time) til it works for you. Find a calibration object you like and trim the temperatures so it prints the best your printer can. At this point in the technology experimentation is a large part of making things work. One thing that's important to remember is that the temperature that you set your bed to and the temperature that your bed gets to is not the same thing. Depending on the construction, assembly and quality of your heater the actual temperature can differ anything from almost nothing to twenty degrees or more. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: First you say 90c, which means you are talking about ABS likely. I state this as some PLA printers do not even use heated beds, and instead use elaborate rafts only. (Makerbot) Now that I have gotten that out of the way I wanted to point out to you that it really isn't using that much power. 110 watts (based off this fellow) <http://reprage.com/post/39698552378/how-much-power-does-a-3d-printer-use> 8 hours. 0.11 USD. <http://energy.gov/energysaver/estimating-appliance-and-home-electronic-energy-use> I am sure this number is not 100% spot on. That said having had used a power monitor when I first started out I can confirm getting very cheap results. Actually I calculated the costs of powering my 1 meter by 1 meter silicon heater. It was not that much. This will not apply to every printer. Some are built better than others. Last for Min Temp. You will pick the temp that works for the specific plastic. Every plastic is different. Materials with high pigments usually need higher temps for extrusions. That said, generally PLA is 60. ABS is 90-100. When it is wrong you will see more (almost always see some) heat warping. I also want to mention that heat chambers give the best result and would not require you to use the bed as much. You don't see these on printers for two reasons. Heaters can catch fire, and because of patents blocking people from selling (nothing stopping you though. Look into just using a Box without an active heater if it is still a concern Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Heatbeds have two purposes: 1. Increase surface energy of the print bed to improve bonding strength of the first layer (particularly important when using surfaces like PEI or Kapton) 2. Keep the bottom few millimeters of the print hot enough to provide a warp-free foundation for the rest of the print. The bit about surface energy is straightforward. Most materials are stickier when hot than cold. In comparison, pure mechanical-bonding bed surfaces like fibrous painter's tape and perfboard don't particularly benefit from bed heat. Warping is a bit more complicated. The basic cause of warping is when the previous layer is allowed to cool and thermally contract before the next layer is deposited. When you stick hot, expanded material on top of cold, contracted material, large shear stresses are generated when the fresh material cools and contracts. Those inter-layer shear stresses then accumulate over many layers into large-scale bending stresses that try to lift the edges of the print off the bed. So, to prevent warping, we should minimize the amount that the previous layer is allowed to cool before the next layer goes down. But we DO need it to cool solid so the print doesn't sag in a mushy mess. This is a balancing act: cooling the plastic solid without over-cooling it. The optimal temperature for the print is right around the glass point of the plastic: this is the temperature at which the plastic becomes fully solid and thermal contraction stresses start to accumulate. The extruder pumps more heat into the print as it deposits molten plastic and radiates a little bit of heat. So we want to set the heatbed temp a little bit below the glass point to ensure the print is able to cool solid. Now, this gets a bit difficult, because everyone's print bed temperature sensor is different. What matters is bed surface temp. Many people have to set their bed temp quite a bit higher than the actual surface temp. It's just something you have to calibrate via print results. The exact filament glass point (Tg) also depends on the blend. * ABS: Tg is around 105C, optimal bed temp 95C in a warm, low-airflow environment * PLA: Tg is around 55C, optimal bed temp is 55C in a cool, high-airflow environment because PLA holds heat and is slow to cool compared to other filaments * PETG: Tg is around 70C, optimal bed temp is 60-70C with mild airflow * Nylon doesn't really work with these rules because it's semi-crystalline, meaning it "freezes" far above its Tg and thus starts accumulating warping stress at fairly high temps... advice varies wildly, from printing cold to 120C bed * PC: Tg is around 150C, optimal bed temp is 130C There are other schools of thought, for example printing the first layer onto a surface much hotter than Tg for good adhesion, and then dropping the bed temp to a value somewhat below Tg to allow the print to solidify. That works fine too. But, with all that said, it's important to understand that the heatbed only keeps the bottom of the print warm. A centimeter up from the build plate, the print is typically much closer to ambient temp than it is to the bed temp. Heated build chambers are thus much more effective for large prints. But heatbeds are still quite effective, because they allow building a strong, warp-free foundation that resists warping stresses induced by the cooler zones higher up in the print. Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]

2016/08/13

<issue_start>username_0: I have a new German RepRap NEO 3D printer, and when I try heating the Extruder to 215°C with Repetier-Host Mac 1.0.1, it always stops at 130°C - does anybody have an idea what could be the reason?<issue_comment>username_1: A few possiblitites. You wire is too small. If your wire is HOT that is a fire hazard. Your thermistor is bad. Check with a high temp heat probe or try replacing thermistor. Your heating element is bad (rare). Last it could be a limit in your firmware. But that would surprise me. Any chance you have the bed and the hotend reversed? If you had the Bed as Hotend, then it would max out around 100. This last one I would say is most likely.. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The most likely problem is that your thermistor is either broken or not screwed in correctly. If this is not the case you should either check look through your firmware for issues, or buy a new heater cartridge and thermistor. Upvotes: 0

2016/08/14

<issue_start>username_0: I'm using Repetier and Slic3r and it is printing a gap between the perimeter and infill on the first layer. Also, the infill is lifting (as in photo). Any advise? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXJCl.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: I found a solution that works for me. I have increased my first layer extrusion width to 250 %, reduced the print speed of perimeters to 30 mm/s, reduced the brim width to 1 and increased the infill/perimeter overlap to 30 %. This was PLA with heat bed off (no heating), printing on glass and using hairspray as an adhesive. Most of my settings were on default. (Repetier & Slic3r). Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You're not sticking to your bed. Adjust your bed height. You are too far. Otherwise you are going too fast and or too hot. Calibrate the bed. Reduce speed. Then adjust temps. Also could be material contamination See this link for a visual troubleshooting. <http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide> <http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide> In addition use some gluestick. That will often solve these issues. Last but not least add a raft if it continues. Or just ignore it. My bet is temp is too hot. I also like to smash my first layer, but not everyone likes that technique as it causes elephant footing. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I was having these issues too on a CR-10S and I worked on it for months and the only thing that would fix it was the spread, overlap, and width of the extrusion, this may also be caused by the fact that I haven't really tried to use glue stick or anything to get my prints to stick better. Upvotes: 1

2016/08/18

<issue_start>username_0: I have a object to print for which I want the base to be printed very rapidly because it's just a cube but as the print reached around 70 % a complex circular structure needs to be printed at a slower speed. Is there any way I could control the speed at the given percentage of job done? I want the cube to be printed at 50 mm/s and the complex circular structure at 40 mm/s. Printer Type - FDM<issue_comment>username_1: [Simplify3D](https://www.simplify3d.com/) has the ability to create more than one process, to be applied to the model at specific layers. It appears that feature fits perfectly with your requirements. As an example, you might create a process within S3D for layers 1 to 500 at the desired 50 mm / sec along with any other modifications you wish. The second process would specify layers 501 to 800 to be printed at 40 mm / sec. The preview mode of S3D allows you to identify layer numbers in order to provide the necessary precision. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As @fred\_dot\_u mentions, Simplify3D has the capability to do this, but you can achieve the same effect by slicing the file twice, once at 40 mm/s and once at 50 mm/s, and then manually combining the generated G-code using a text editor. You should be able to find the point where it transitions from printing the cube to printing the circular structure by looking at the Z-height, and you can simply copy-paste the G-code from that point onward from the 40 mm/s file into the 50 mm/s file. For instance, you might look for a point like this in the G-code (Cura): ``` G1 F3600 X113.543 Y94.098 E105.96969 ;LAYER:25 G0 F7800 X113.743 Y91.369 Z2.700 ``` or this (Simplify3D) ``` G1 X175.981 Y74.019 F2880 ; layer 25, Z = 1.869 ; inner perimeter G1 X162.982 Y57.870 F7500 G1 Z2.069 F900 ``` Note that the both include a comment line (a line that starts with `;`) to indicate the layer. Everything before that you should copy from one file, everything afterwards from the other. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Cura has a plugin called "Tweak at Z" that lets you change the speed at a specific layer/height, I used it when printing an object that's basically a curved box for 100 mm and then has tiny features in the last 10 mm and it worked very well. Upvotes: 2

2016/08/19

<issue_start>username_0: I'm currently attempting to make a repstrap using paper printed parts, like this guy : <http://www.mariolukas.de/2012/05/repstrap-3d-drucker-aus-computerschrott-teil-1/> I replaced the DC motor in a paper printer carriage assembly with a stepper motor (NEMA17). But there was not enough space to fit the axis of the nema 17 at the exact spot of the older DC motor axis, in short, the axis are not in the same place. The question is : if the axis is not in the exact same spot, will it affect the movement of the carriage or not at all ?[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8A21q.png) I supposed it would but i'm not sure since the carriage is limited in movement by the rails and that we still move the belt around.<issue_comment>username_1: Axis should definitely be at proper position. Otherwise you will get at least 2 issues. 1. Carriage will be pulled up which will cause stresses on rollers or slides and it will stress your belt 2. The way the carriage will go will change but because carriage itself is fixed then it will change the speed 3D printing is a precise process. Both issues will have impact on printouts and all your printouts will have broken dimension in the axis in which carriage moves. Have a look on the picture (it is big to show details) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/maQ3j.png) **fig A** shows a situation where carriage is far from the axis In such situation the distance between vertical line of black cross and pink circle is almost unnoticable so both - the force and the distance (so speed) change are very small. **fig B** shows a situation where carriage is relatively close to the axis Then both - the force and the distance change is noticable Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: A rotation of the stepper motor 90 degrees clockwise or counter-clockwise would move it more to the center. You would only need lengthen or shorten the belt. Upvotes: 0

2016/08/21

<issue_start>username_0: My goal is to 3D print a 5 liter miniature barrel with a side stand, similar to [this wooden one on Amazon](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009K5DSJG). I want it to have a removable top so that a boxed wine bladder may be put inside, and there should be a hole on the top as well so that the spigot may stick out and be used. I have no experience with 3D modeling or printing, but I have access to a public 3D printer at my local library. I know you can print parts individually (ex. curved wood-colored sides with staves and holes to interlock and make up the body of the barrel, the metal-colored hoops to go around the barrel). I don't know what software to use, though. I was thinking of starting to learn Blender? Would that be effective for this project?<issue_comment>username_1: Your question begins in an inappropriate format for StackExchange, but you've ended it with one more appropriate by asking if Blender would work. If you are willing to take the time to learn Blender, you are certain to discover that it will do as you require, and much much more. Your referenced model could be created using engineering-type design software such as Fusion 360 or SolidWorks or many of the free packages, but the free-form aspect is more suited to the flexibility of Blender. > > 2020 UPDATE: Fusion 360 now supports a sculpt feature, which combines organic modeling with the engineering-type for which it is previously known. > > > Even though Blender is not an engineering-type program, it has internal support for precise modeling. Should you learn to use those features, you get the best of both types of software. If you construct your model in the software in segments/pieces as you suggest, your result will have greater flexibility at the printing stage, specifically with respect to color and filament choices. Instead of wood-colored sides, you can use wood-simulated PLA filament! Depending on the printer at the library, you could also use filamet, a filament containing 88 percent metal for the hoops. I use Blender for some aspects of modeling, often importing the STL into Meshmixer to address things I've not yet learned in Blender. I hope your reference to 5 liter is the original size and that your model will be a miniature of it. A 3d printer with 5 liter capacity would be a wonderful asset at the public library! Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: We get this question a lot in the facebook groups I manage. The usual answers do not include blender as it has a stupid hard learning curve. That is overkill for what you are looking to do. Look into 123d from autodesk. Free if you do not make money. I find this one to be the easiest. <http://www.123dapp.com/design> Also there is Google sketchup, with SLT out plugin. I find this one is pretty sub par due to the fact it does not create printable models well (ie missing triangles so it wont create solids, hard to fix) <http://www.sketchup.com/> I think this one pops up. I haven't used it and I think it costs, but worth a mention. <https://www.rhino3d.com/> Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: To the people saying 123design. I can only say I have been a blender user way before 3D printing was a thing and just cant get around learning 123design. It just feels so limited as it only have a few tools. Yes blender might have a hard learning curve but it does pay off in the future as you wont be limited to 3D printing models and its crucial to make more complex models Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: I think Autodesk Meshmixer is the best, as you can easily make parts with [boolean operations](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tqy-PJq6Ds)(if you're more of a cubic thinking guy) or [drag-and-sculpt](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNpjniv8OXY)(if you're more of a freeform guy). (And thoses videos are old but still working). If you want to get better reflexes in CAD engineering, I think Solidworks is the best (but **really** expensive if you aren't an enterprise), if you want to get better knowledge in 3D design and animations, maybe blender is good but surely not for CAD people neither for beginners in 3D (even if it's well-documented). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: I would highly recommend you checkout Onshape for your design. <https://www.onshape.com/> It is the easiest to use, full featured, free 3D CAD program. It is made (and in active development) by the creators of Solidworks, the most widely used CAD program out there for good reason! And it runs in the cloud, so you don't need a high powered PC with an amazing graphics card, just a decent internet connection. Onshape looks like it's going to be the future of mechanical CAD whereas other programs like 123d and Sketchup are simply lightweight versions of "real" CAD. Unless you want to get highly involved in organic, complex shapes, I would avoid Blender, you will spend so much time learning it you could have whittled your barrel from a log instead. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: I recently purchased a 3d printer and have found that freecad suited me really well <http://www.freecadweb.org/> and its open source. I believe its very similar to onshape in its a parametric modeller but runs locally rather that online. Using the Parts view i have made most of my models using basic shapes and boolen subtractions. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: I'm no expert, but have done some research on this question and it seems to me that [Fusion 360](http://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/overview) is currently your best bet. It's designed to do exactly what you're planning, from start to finish. **Design** (Sculpting and precision modeling), **Test** (fitting/animation analysis), and **Fabricate** (CAM and 3D printing) all wrapped into one program that has a logical workflow, and is WAY easier to learn than Blender. It's free for hobbyists and startups making less than $100K/yr. There are a bunch of free tutorials online, professionally produced by Autodesk. By the time you get through those, you should be able to complete your project. (Edit): I don't know anything about onshape.com. Like I said, I'm no expert. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_8: You can check out [Tinkercad](https://www.tinkercad.com/). It is an easy to use, online editor. Even though it is not as powerful as Blender or Rhino3d, for easy 3d models it is more than sufficient. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_9: If you have any programming background at all, consider OpenScad. It is a functional type of programming language that lets you do a lot of things quite easily without art skills. OpenScad skills are useful for building customizable things on Thingiverse. [Here is a place to start](http://www.openscad.org/) Upvotes: 2

2016/08/23

<issue_start>username_0: This came up in one of my groups today. That we could not color bend, or mix 3d printing filaments. I have researched but I am not finding anything talking about Plastic mixing in an extruder. Why is it that we cannot take say a Diamond hotend, or a hotend with 5+ inputs, and mix any color we want? (assuming all the same type, ABSm, PLA). I think it would be interesting to at the least get a gradient effect on prints. The best I have seen is natural plastic and a marker system. Or a powder / advanced / out of hobbyist price range process that sprays ink. The only Color Bending I know of is with Recycled plastic that uses multi color. Not quite what I am looking for. Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: I just started with google and phrase "3d printing color mixing" and on the first place (in fact first two were valueless adverts) I got this [Instructables - DIY Full Color Mixing 3D Printer](http://www.instructables.com/id/Full-Color-Mixing-3D-Printer/?ALLSTEPS). **How it works?** It uses magenta / cyan / yellow filaments and mixes it while printing with Diamond hotend. It definitely does what you are asking for and it's exactly the same idea you come up with ;) **Overview** > > 1. Getting the controller board ready for three extruders... I hacked > a RAMBo board to drive three extruders, however, you can use any board > you want... (most people use a RUMBA due to it having all the > pins/components needed for 3 extruders native on the board) > 2. Rewriting Repetier firmware to get color mixing working on your > machine. > 3. How to install, configure, and use the diamond hotend - tips / > tricks / lessons learned / etc... > 4. My original Bowden extruder design and various ways to mount the > three extruders for your set-up > 5. My universal magnetic effector plate and accompanying hotend mounts > for quickly swapping various hotends. (delta specific) > 6. How to design multi-color models and making STLs that can be > exported and used as a individual STLs or combining them into an AMF > file for slicing... > 7. Configuring color mixing in Repetier and Slic3r to print above > mentioned multi-color models. > 8. Anything else I can think of later that I can't think of now. > 9. Comprehensive overview of Quantum Mechanical Entanglement as it > pertains to multi-color printing (just kidding, I don't understand > that... But I will cover multi-color printing throughly) > > > Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As darth\_pixel points out, people have had limited success with feeding multiple colors into a diamond hotend and mixing them, but I would argue this is not truly what you're looking for. The problem is that when feeding multiple filaments into a diamond-style hotend, the colors do not naturally mix completely: if you look at an object printed this way the color changes with the angle you view it from. This would not be fundamentally impossible to overcome: you could make the melt zone longer, and possibly introduce something to promote mixing (like a spiral path for the molten plastic). However, this would greatly increase the force required to extrude and make retraction near impossible. Both of these issues would reduce print quality. The results would also not be very good, as you'd need a long purge between colors, limiting the number of distinct colors you can use in a single model while keeping the print time acceptable. Moreover, given how limited the resolution of FDM is you could not make very detailed graphics either. Over all, you're much better served with painting or assembling parts printed in different colors. Given the limited potential for color printing in FDM and the mentioned obstacles to building a color mixing hotend, I think it is natural nobody has built one (\*) but that doesn't mean it is fundamentally impossible. (\*) There have been some attempts, many on Kickstarter, but none have been truly successful. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Branching off of [TomvanderZanden's answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2670/what-is-stopping-us-from-mixing-3d-filament-colors-in-an-extruder#2672), this process cannot easily be done with an extruder alone. To properly color polymers, a [pigment](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pigment) must be added during the initial treatment process (otherwise applied during any heat treatment). These pigments do not necessarily allow a simple `red + blue = purple` process to change the color for many reasons including: * Polymer Transparency * Polymer [Refractive Index](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Refractive_index). Kinda goes with Transparency, but how light interacts with the surface of the material might set how people perceive the color. * Polymer Quality (how "[virgin](http://www.businessdictionary.com/definition/virgin-material.html)" it is). Non-virgin material may mean that impurities absorb the pigments easier or refract light differently, giving a different color. * [Pigment Quality](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pigment#Scientific_and_technical_issues). If a cheaper pigment is used, it may not bind as well with the polymer. * etc The above variables may hinder the desired color in even a single batch of plastic, let alone trying to mix two together. Also consider, that the pigments in each filament spool will be deluded as it has already bonded to the current filament. Review a phase diagram for an optimal temperature and time to introduce pigments. The best case would be to create your own [masterbatch](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masterbatch) and somehow re-color the filament as you would in a normal manufacturing process. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: The three in one print head [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/S1lJ6.jpg) is the closest to your concept of gradient printing and does some nice transitions. But does not meet your color mixing. Which I assume your looking for there is something like blue and yellow making green and by varying those percent getting shades of green. The three in one head does get close to a dot by dot transition. I have since I first seen the crowd funding request for the Palette been dwelling on this same concept true color printing in 3D like a laser printer prints paper. The Palette [Palette web site](https://www.mosaicmanufacturing.com) is moving closer to color mixing or fast transitions for multiple colors and again can make flowing color changes but still not a true mixer. But is is still color striping. I want one for simple sake of switching color spools with out pulling off and re-feeding filament. And for my Rostock allowing two to four color switching with a single head. For many months I have pondered taking their unit for its software ability to pre-switch colors and feed it with a three color head. My plan that I have been mulling for months now is cross mixing of their color switcher with five into one extruder with not a print nozzle but a 1.75 or 3mm filament production nozzle to produce a software timed output based on desired print color effect. Then feeding that to your single nozzle printer would make a true multi-color mixer. As I was thinking on assembling myself this and put it out there for use, but first I hate doing a lot of programing, second I have health issues slowing me down, third is way to many project. So here is a concept. * Five extruders, CYM-BW cyan, yellow, magenta, black, white * These feed a forming nozzle 1.75mm out into a pfte tube going to printer extruder * The forming nozzle is several centimeters long and has it own secondary heater. The interior is milled with a 5 in to a swirl wall (like a mixing nozzle on epoxy). * Color filament feeding three of the nozzles are your primary colors set in the center of the color range. * PrintCOLOR(C, Y, M) command set basically like other color sets 0-255 range. Difference being is 0 is white filament, 254 is black filament, 255 is no filament, 127 is pure color. With 1-126 gradient mix of white and color, 128-253 gradient mix of black and color. * Feed by extruders into mixer must total extruder speed of printer, which is where need for PrintCOLOR(C, Y, M) programming is required. For instance making green out of C and Y. PrintCOLOR(127, 127, 0) would need half speed blue and half speed yellow. So who knows maybe some one like the makers of Palette or some crowd funder can run with this. I think it is fully do able. Three color diamond head can not produce WHITE by mixing. To print white requires dropping one color to substituting in the white. And it requires major modification to many printers to add. The CYM filament picked for use on a diamond head alone sets the maximum darkness allowed. Having ability to mix white and black to CYM solves this issue. 5 color CYM-WB is minimum to get a true mix. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: A Kickstarter campaign just finished for a full color 3D FDM printer, the [RoVa4D Full Color Blender 3D Printer](https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/ordsolutions/rova4d-full-color-blender-3d-printer/description). It used CYMK printing and includes black and white filament for 5 color filament feeds, plus additional feeds for flexible and support filaments. They raised \$216k against a target of \$25k. The company that is doing this has other printers in production, I believe. This one adds the color capability. It's planned for 12"x12"x18" print volume. I am not associated with the project. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_6: If you clearly observe the geometry of the print it has printed in different colours .the part is designed in such a way that it has the small height gap between the each colour but we cannot seen this gap in one projection plane.. We can print only in direct drive extrusion .by changing the filament of different colours without pausing the print by immediately changing the material . It is printed in single nozzle. The above image clears your doubt.it is designed with different heights.[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/faCw2.jpg) Upvotes: -1

2016/08/23

<issue_start>username_0: The turntable support part in my microwave has broken. It is a three armed part, with small wheels at the end of each arm. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qza6i.jpg) I'm confident I could print a replacement, and reuse the existing wheels (since they can be removed). The heat of the food would be unlikely to conduct through to the PLA, but I'm concerned that it might get heated up by the microwave radiation. I can't find any clear information online about whether PLA absorbs microwaves, or if it is in any other way unsuitable for this. Will this be a disaster, or should I give it a go?<issue_comment>username_1: I would say PLA itself should not be heated up by microwave. It's because microwave oven creates oscilations which excites water particles [(see microwave explanation here)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microwave_oven) ~~so assuming PLA doesn't contain water, it won't heat up.~~ *(removed to not mislead as the water is not only material which heats up by microwaves. Thanx to <NAME> for being vigilant)* But as usual, it's more complicated. First. PLA can contain water as while producing it can be cooled down in water bath. Of course well made PLA will have as less water as possible as water has an influence on printing process. Second. PLA is absorbing humidity so in fact it gets water inside right from the air. This unfortunately causes problems in microwave oven. Water can be overheated and oven can overheat water above 100C. But even at 100C, PLA will not be hard anymore so your 3 arm star would "collapse". Wheels could get oval or start sticking to their axis. Eventually if high power is delivered to very "wet" PLA, I think it can... well maybe not explode but break. Here goes a test which shows it can be used to [defrost things on PLA plate in microwave](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpRIhqxVgug) But here <NAME> [claims PLA gets soft in microwave during the test](https://brazenartifice.wordpress.com/2011/11/02/reprap-3d-printers-pla-and-moisture-problems/) **Will it be a disaster?** In my opinion it will work only for short uses of MW. Heating up a glass of milk or so. But for longer sessions when there will be much more heat (out of heating dish) it won't work. **SHORT TEST** * 20sec and 950W gives no effect on my sample (hotend cooling fan duct) * 40sec and 950W caused the sample became a bit warm Inspite that it's not a good idea to run MW without "proper-absorber" this little test confirmes my suspisious - short sessions are ok. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Yes. You can. I would think ABS would be a better idea, as it melts at a higher temp. <http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:385288> Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You really shouldn't 1. PLA "glass point" (the temperature where it starts to get soft) is approximately 60C, even if it doesn't heat up from the microwaves it's way to likely the ambient temperature in the microwave will reach that level and cause the part to collapse (even if you "never" get it hot - it only have to get to 60C once during the lifetime of the part). 2. PLA is not safe for cooking (or even for food storage) and your typical PLA filament isn't even pure PLA, only god knows what chemicals there are in your specific brand of filament and what will be released into the air inside the microwave when it's heated. In first glance ABS seem to be a better option because it has an higher glass point and food-safe ABS exists - but it's still bad because even food-safe-ABS is only safe for cold and room temperature food. I don't know about other materials. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: There are **Food Safe PLA filaments**. These PLA filaments share similar qualities with ABS, in regards to temperature extremes et al. There are several on the market. (Eg. <https://shop.germanreprap.com/en/pp-plastic-600g-3mm-black> and <http://www.formfutura.com/hdglass/> -- I've not used the HD glass personally but have been told it works well) When shopping for food safe PLA filaments check for the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) that comes with the filament. It will contain all the normal chemical warnings, some composition information, etc. but will also indicate if the material is Food and Drug Administration(FDA) approved. PLA, food safe or not, can also have bacterialogical issues--the material is pourous enough to allow for bacterial growth. I would suggest using a polyurethane to seal the printed part to limit bacterial growth. You will need to check what sort of extruder you have on your pinter. Many brass extruders also contain lead which can leach into the printed product. Switch to a stainless steel print head to avoid this issue. General care--warm soapy water and handwashing. I would not, as yet, recommend any printed product as a vessel for food--cup/bowl. This element is still somewhat new and I don't personally trust the materials for extended contact with food. (Knives/spoons et al. have much shorter contact with food vs. a plastic mug of hot coffee). For your intended application, the piece in question would not come into direct contact with food to be consumed. As such, you should be fine with the correct filament. Upvotes: 0

2016/08/23

<issue_start>username_0: For a while now, I have been thinking about designing things such as small bedside tables, game/dvd/bluray racks for 3d printing. I've always thought that making them modular would be a good way to go about doing this as well. Modular design would help to create an end result that is vastly larger than the print volume of my 3d printer. I might even be able to recycle models for use in other projects. However, I'm not sure of what I need to think about if I decide to go ahead with these ideas I have floating around in my head. I'm assuming that certain joints (dovetail, etc), tolerances for different types of plastic due to shrinkage, and print settings (% infill, in particular) would be important to have thought about and evaluated to some extent, but I'm not sure about what else I might be missing. So my question is to anyone who has designed anything to be modularly printed. Have you really had to think carefully about the engineering side of the print? Or am I simply overthinking this? Should I just design what I want and give it reasonable infill, walls and whatnot, and just go for a trial and error approach? I'm sure there is a method to this madness, but is a concrete understanding of this type of engineering absolutely paramount when it comes to this sort of stuff? --- EDIT: Although I've marked darth pixel's answer as accepted, I'm still going to follow JKEngineer's advise and check out that book as well since I feel as though proper engineering techniques alongside a good mentality towards how I would tackle the problem (as outlined in darth pixel's answer) would prove to yield better results in the long run.<issue_comment>username_1: All printers are designed with an idea of [WYSIWYG](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WYSIWYG) for sure. Depending on: * printer - type/quality/settings/configuration/assembly precission * filament - type/quality/shrinkage * user skills - manual/using app proficiency * model complexity * environment conditions and so on you can get different results. I venture to say users know their printers (after some time and by trials and errors) so they know how to manage dimensions to compensate all above so you will get this knowledge too. Mathematical formula can describe shrinkage of the material, all other elements are very hard to describe (mathematically) in a general way. Of course someone can simplify it and say: more money you spend better effects you'll get. It's sometimes true ;) So all your modular things will be better and better if you will increase (what is to be increased) in above points especially "user skills". Is engineering paramount? It depends of whay you gonna create. If your modular things have to lock itself, have to have threads, screws and such stuff then this is engineering. Is it the most important part of the design? Not necessarily. I would say 3D printing moved engineering to next level. I'm talking about [this](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:258201) or [this](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:249341). Is it still art or engineering? :) This is my receipt: *think > imagine > design > rethink > redesign > give it a try > get back to thinking* good luck Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: A book you would benefit from reading is "Functional Design for 3D Printing...Designing 3D Printed things for everyday use - 2nd Edition" by <NAME>. It deals with FDM printing only. It deals with considerations of orientation of the parts being printed to address required strength in the 3 directions (x, y, z), tolerances, and designing parts in such a way that they can be assembled, have the strength needed, have flexibility, etc. In some instances he shows how to split a single functional part into multiple parts so that, when assembled, it actually performs as required. It's available from Amazon at [Book on Amazon](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1511572027). I received it as a present and have no commercial interest in it. Here's a review: [Book Review on 3D Printing for Beginners](http://3dprintingforbeginners.com/book-review-functional-design-for-3d-printing/) Upvotes: 2

2016/08/26

<issue_start>username_0: I have printed a MPCNC machine. It has a print area of about 30" x 30" and up to 11" tall. (yes, those numbers are correct). I found a perfect piece of glass at a garage sale for $5.00 to use as my print bed. My problem now is how to heat the glass? I was wondering if there is some sort of tape that would perhaps mimic what is on the rear window of a car, but I couldn't find it anywhere. Any ideas or links to something that can get me some progress on my search would be greatly appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: Your best option may be to seek out a silicone rubber heating mat, using those terms for your web search. A quick search on my part shows many resources, some of which are known to the 3d printing manufacturing world, while others are equally suited for that purpose. Don't bond the heater to the glass. You'll need to replace it when it breaks. Consider to use borosilicate glass for better heat tolerance and smaller chance of breakage. A quick search for such a large size pane comes up empty, invalidating that suggestion. I've read of some people using water bed heaters for large area coverage, but they may heat the area unevenly. It could be to your advantage to use multiple heater panels with temperature controls for each one. This would provide more uniform heating although more complex temperature management. I would post links, but there are so many from which to choose. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Maybe you can stick a [nichrome](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nichrome "nichrome") wire under the glass using a heat resistant tape. You'll have to make the appropriate calcs (or just trial/error) to achieve the desired temperature at a consistent timing. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: It will be very difficult to heat such a large bed, simply because of the enormous power required. [Thomas Sanladerer recommends at least 0.6 W/cm²](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eure74A9HNc) but notes 0.4 W/cm² also works (but takes "forever" to reach the target temperature). For a 30"x30" bed, 0.6 W/cm² would come out to 3.5 kW. At 110 V that would require 32 A and at 220 V, 16 A. These are extremely large currents, perhaps more than you can draw from a single circuit: both in the EU and US sockets tend to be fused at around 15-20 A (the standard EU Schuko plug itself is only rated for 16 A). You will be forced to go with a lower amperage, for 0.5 W/cm² you "only" need 27 A@110 V or 14 A@220 V. 0.4 W/cm² is 21 A and 11 A respectively As such, if you are in the US, then it will be *impossible* to heat such a bed from a standard wall outlet. In the EU it might just about be possible, but make sure that the wiring in your house is in good state and capable to carry the current required (and note that running electrical equipment at its maximum rating for an extended period of time is never a good idea). If you are in the US, you should definitely look into getting 3-phase power installed. If you are in the EU, you might also consider this as an option. It is able to deliver more power, but you'd need a special type of heater. There are some suppliers that make custom silicone heater mats. If you can get one in this size that would be a good option, though it would be considerably more expensive than your \$5 piece of glass. In any case you should not attempt a DIY solution because this is extremely dangerous. The currents you are dealing with should not be underestimated. People have already set their printers on fire due to using high currents at 12/24 V; you do not want to make a similar mistake using even higher currents at 110 V. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: As @Tom pointed out, heating that much area is a pretty big deal. I would just add: * You can't draw anywhere near that much power from the normal heatbed output on a PC board like RAMPs. You could, however, use the normal output to control a big relay (semiconductor or not); that also lets you keep the high-power wiring away from the rest. * You'll want multiple temperature sensors and heat zones, for at least 2 reasons: First, variation may be high over such an area; and second, you can save a lot of power by only powering up the portions you're going to use. However, just like with home heating, having multiple zones makes things much more complicated. The software for managing heatbed temperature isn't likely to support multiple heaters (especially since most cards don't have enough outputs to make use of it). I've done a bit with this since my printer is about 4x as long as normal (but *not* 4x as wide too, like yours). So far I just use one standard PC-board heatbed, and if I have to print something longer than that I do without the heatbed entirely (mine is easy to take in and out). Present plan is to get a few more of the same PC-board heaters, and have an entirely separate box with temperature dials to control each one. But that still means the printer software won't be in control. So I couldn't (for example), have a different temp for the first few layers, or have the print stop if the heatbed gets out of range. To put the printer back in charge, I'd have to do something like calculate the average (or maximum?) temperature of the zones, and create a signal that looks like what a thermistor or thermocouple would generate, to send to the printer software. The software would then turn the heat on or off as usual, but that output would go to the control box, which would decide what specifically to do about it. For example, even when the printer says to turn off, the heat control might keep the cooler zones on until they catch up. In other words, it gets pretty messy... :( Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: I am heating my 1 meter by 1 meter plate (yes those numbers are correct) (in progress long term project) of tempered glass with a silicone heater bed I bought as overstock on ebay. Silicone Heating Mat [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkTZc.jpg) [From Reprap Wiki](http://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed#Silicone_Heating_Mat) > > Silicone Heater Pad in sizes > silicone heater pad Pros: Fast heating Reliable Most use mains voltage > - DOESN'T require any amps from the 12 volt supply Very low height Easy to install (adhesive backed) Can be relatively inexpensive 12 V > types can be run directly from the controller MOSFET without a relay > Integrated thermistor Long life span Cons: Can be expensive - silicon > mat (50€) plus solid state relay (16€). Mains voltage, but can be > purchased for 12 V. Need GROUND line to aluminum bed for safety. > Relatively high temperatures possible (safety problem if thermistor > dies/falls off). > > > I also talked to a few alibaba companies and they will happily make you a custom order. Just be wary working with them. You will also need to start another question about the particular parts you need. Actually I think I have a second one I bought from Aliexpress about that size. So no custom orders needed. Ran about 100 USD. I will note I used a MIC6 aluminum plate, custom cut at a local shop. That will have a more even heat profile than glass. I will note that I have to run mine from 220 VAC not 110 VAC power lines.. But the actual electrical costs are pretty low! Upvotes: 2

2016/08/29

<issue_start>username_0: I have a Mini Kossel and I am going through calibration. I can home carriages and find the bed with paper-test getting some Z value with `M114`. Then I run the effector almost full height **up and then down** - and now **Z value for the bed is greater**! If I repeat the process I get greater and greater values in paper-test. It seems that travel per step is different moving in different directions. How can I fix that? I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware. UPDATE: Z values near bed after subsequent runs of five passes of `G1 X100 G1 X10` ``` 100% speed: 0.1 0.3 0.5 0.7 1.0 20% speed: 0.1 0.4 0.9 1.4 4.6 6.6 300% speed: 0.0 0.7 1.0 1.3 ```<issue_comment>username_1: According to discussions in comments, I'm pretty sure the problem lies in too low current. Please review [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1480/how-do-you-make-sure-you-have-the-right-voltage-on-the-timpots-on-a-a4988-steppe/1483#1483) to [How do you make sure you have the right voltage on the trimpots on a A4988 stepper driver?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1480/how-do-you-make-sure-you-have-the-right-voltage-on-the-timpots-on-a-a4988-steppe/). **Why it happens?** If there is not enough current then motors can omit some steps as the stress is not equal while going up and down. Sometimes inertia can have higher influence than friction. Additionally because the resistance/stress/friction on towers is different for sure then there are some issues in centering hotend. So friction/inertia/assembly inaccuracy and current settings inaccuracy can cause such effects. If you are "on the edge" your printer may work well one day but the other day it can fail positioning. Please refer to post mentioned above. Perform calibration and temperature test (finger test could be ok). I hope you'll manage the issue. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: After some more testing I checked that the problem shows up only on Z tower and is not related with current. Examining the tower I found very dumb mistake. Pulley on the motor didn't have a setscrew! Don't know how could I missed that. The fact that it could somehow run is even more amazing. Thanks @tom-van-der-zanden and @darthpixel for help. It is for sure that such synchronization failure could have been caused by current shortage as well. UPDATE: Oh! Y tower pulley doesn't have setscrew as well! But it was running smoothly and in sync with X (which has that screw). Amazing. - UPDATE2. Not really. After closer look only Z tower misses the screw, which explains all. UPDATE3: After setting a srew into pulley the problem is completely gone!) Upvotes: 3

2016/08/30

<issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for a 3D printer for applications in the dental field, for printing digital dental models (not for itra-oral use parts). Resolution and finish are the main requirements that we consider necessary. Any suggestion?<issue_comment>username_1: If resolution is your upmost concern then resin 3d printers are the way to go. They use a liquid resin that does not harden until a UV laser is shined through them. Apparently they get ultra high resolution and smooth finishes right out of the box. The downside is they are generally more expensive machines and the resin material itself is also a higher cost. but if you are in the dental field then money is not a problem. Look into resin 3d printers. otherwise if you want to try FDM printers then try looking into .1mm brass nozzles which will increase resolution but vastly increase print time. Not sure what material would be best. ABS has toxic smelling fumes, but is the same as LEGOS and is able to be easily smoothed (if necessary) with Acetone fumes. PLA might work well at .1mm nozzle resolution though and is a starch/dextrin based non-toxic biodegradable filament. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As mentionned by username_1, resins should do the trick : most commons processes are SLA and DLP (DLP is faster but more expensive). * If you aren't looking for precisions (or looking for low budget), FDM machines should do the trick. * If you need metal, I think Solidscape or micro SLM should both work. You should specify what are your exigences, it's not the same to do an ultra-high precision metal part and to have a $300 maximum-budget machine. Upvotes: 0

2016/08/30

<issue_start>username_0: I'm a beginner. I've a Printrbot Play with a heated bed add-on. I'm using it exclusively with PLA. It worked great initially, but then I took the nozzle out and put it back in, and the Z calibration was lost (and I didn't know the calibration was a thing). As a result, I started having issues with the piece warping up and not sticking to the bed in the corners and around the edge, when the piece was large and flat. I've installed the heated bed. I used Kapton tape. All these made it perhaps a little better. Finally I started tweaking the Z axis calibration (the fine adjustment for the initial distance between nozzle and bed) and that made it perfect. No warping anymore. But now I have the opposite problem. When printing pieces with large flat surfaces that are siting flush with the bed, it's next to impossible to tear it off at the end. I went back to using plain blue tape instead of Kapton, but it's still sticking too well to the bottom of the piece. I tried to pry it off by pushing a knife under the piece, but that has put a few scratches on the bed. Obviously I don't want to continue doing that. What can I do? How to prevent warping, while also making sure the piece does not stick too hard to whatever is underneath? --- **EDIT:** The accepted answer was very good and I don't want to mess with it by adding my own "answer". So here it is: I ended up adding a glass plate on top of the bed, with a heat conductive layer between bed and plate (it's a funny looking, rubbery, chewing-gum-y material that conducts heat). Now I just apply glue stick on the glass and print. Works great. Large pieces come off on their own sometimes if I let them cool down to 30 C or lower. I had some issues with the Z calibration sensor due to the plate, eventually got solved, but that would take too long to explain here.<issue_comment>username_1: I have only experienced PLA "super sticking" if the print bed is allowed to cool too much. I would suggest running a mild preheat to your bed when you find a print has stuck and the bed is cool. (What you set the temp to for the preheat would depend on the filament in question but start low and work up and you may find a sweet spot/release point for your particular PLA) I have never encountered PLA "super sticking" printed with rafts on (regardless of printbed temperature). Rafts will give you a sacrifical grid of PLA between your actual finished piece and the bed itself. That way you can "pry" the printed object from the bed and have more leaway for increased leverage without damage to your actual piece(use a plastic razor blade common in cell/tablet screen replacement kits and you generally won't scratch your printbed/printbed coating/tape). The lattice/net of the raft would also, generally, have less, in contact with the printbed surface area than a finished piece and thus have less holding power. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: **Options to check** (in order of probability of occurenece and success): 1. Z-calibration Maybe you should perform calibration again. It's possible that nozzle is now too close which causes the filament is spread on the heatbed, which causes that the bottom surface is "too flat". It means all separate filament tracks are spilled and they create "glass flat" surface. You did mention that the model sticks too much even to kapton. It suggests z-calibration. 2. Temperature calibration Check if the temperature is not too high. Reducing it a bit can reduce sticking. If filament is too soft then material sticks usually better (causes the same as in #1) 3. Heatbed cleaning If your HB is scatched (even not visible scratches) then it's possible that previous printouts left little grains in such scratches. Cleaning HB could then help. Are you using glass? if yes - change glass side to check this option. Eventually replace glass with new one. 4. Heatbed surface If your heatbed is scratched then filament can penetrate such scratches and increase sticking. 5. Filament Did you change filament vendor? If not then maybe your filament had changed during a time/humidity/sun/cigarete smoke. This is very doubtful option but who knows. **What methods you can use to detach model** 1. Paper knife I also have the same problem when I use paper glue stick. Some vendors produce such sticky glue that I affraid to break a glass (which I use of course). When this happens I use a paper knife. Glass is scratchproof enough. **Be careful - if your model suddenly detaches releasing knife... just be careful**. Unmount HB or unmount glass first of course. 2. Hammer I know people use hammer to detach sticked model. I would suggest this method only for big and relatively simple elements. Especially for solids (fully filled with the material, without any grid/honeycomb inner structure). One short hit in the same surface as the HB. Be careful of course and unmount HB or unmount glass first. 3. Fridge As HB material and filament have most likely different thermal shrinkage factor it might help. And guess what - unmount HB/glass first ;) Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Pour some 70% IPA along the edge of the model with a Q-tip, it will pop out right away. For larger models aaply IPA from a wash bottle. This method also works well on other plastic to glossy surface bonds, like, for example, hot melt glue to arylic sheet, see this -> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9kdiZMqfmM> Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I suggest that you make a support not that much massive (this kind of problem is often cause of a massive part printed directly on the bed). You should place some easily destructible material between your part and the bed. I don't know your part, but even if you have a plane under it, don't stick it to the bed. Let a gap, like, 5 mm minimum, which you will fill up with support. Of course, your support must be something light. For example, try to use the [meshmixer supports](http://www.reppersdelight.spacymen.com/public/RD_images/MeshMixer_support2.jpg) (meshmixer is free) or some [lattices supports](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bf8dGI7gxR8/VX4fZrYGekI/AAAAAAAAowU/z52DD0ZOwHU/s640/IMG_5435.JPG) if provided with your software's printer. As they're supports and not the part, you can destroy it more easily, without the preoccupation to save it, just caring about your bed. Of course, it depends on the amount your "sticking" problem, if small things are sticky too, this won't save you. For non-used to supports people, support is often a solution to main deformations and sticking problems. Deformations because it dissipates the heat better, sticking because it's much less massive material to remove. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Several factors to consider, but don't get discouraged, it is definitely something you can solve. Consider this... **Z height:** Lower Z squishes first layer more and increases sticking, higher Z results in less plastic contacting the print surface and reduces sticking. Tweaking your Z-height can help you dial-in your first layer adhesion. **Print Temperatures:** Higher extruder and bed temps during printing will tend to increase sticking. Lowering temps will reduce sticking. Run several tests, just a few degrees can make a difference and finding the right balance can take some trial and error. **Removal Temperatures:** There is typically a warm bed removal temperature that works best, when the bed has cooled but not all the way. **Anti-warp "tabs":** If you're making your own models, you can add a breakaway tab to the ends of parts that are prone to warping. This improves surface area for hold down where you need it, but takes minimal post processing to remove. **Dry your filament:** Warping is generally much worse when filament absorbs water from the air. Some filaments such as polycarbonate are VERY prone to this, but even PLA warping can be reduced by drying the filament. To dry your filament you can use a low temperature in your oven, make a drying bucket, or my favorite, put it under a vacuum with a vacuum pump. **Removal tricks:** Various methods of rapidly cooling the edge of the print with canned air, alcohol, etc. can really help. Thin metal spatulas can work wonders. **Try PEI on your print surface:** PEI is awesome. Many common filaments stick very well while it's hot and release easily when it's cool. Check out the way Lulzbot attaches their PEI print surface to all their printer beds. It's a pretty easy and cheap mod. The other factors I listed still matter, but PEI makes it MUCH easier. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: When I started, I got a lot of failed prints due to loss of adhesion. It still happens but much rarer. Dialling in settings improved that, but downside is that parts stay stuck to my glass bed really well even when completely cooled off. I now use a 30mm paint scraper to peel the brim up as far around the model as possible. I only use a 5mm brim width now, and that seems workable. I then use the same paint scraper as a chisel right at the end of a part, and push it into the bed so the blade is flexed. Then I tap the handle end with a rubber mallet. This generally either pops the part off completely, or at least lets the blade slip underneath where I can push it further by hand. I'd prefer perfect adhesion, but would rather have over-adhesion than under-adhesion. Upvotes: 0

2016/08/31

<issue_start>username_0: I have a LARGE piece of glass (36"x26") that I will soon be printing on using my newly build MPCNC machine. It is capable of printing about 34"x34"x10". Anyway, I have had GREAT success printing on heated glass that is sprayed lightly with hairspray using PLA and being able to EASILY remove my prints after the glass has cooled. I attribute this to the slight expansion and contraction that occurs when glass is heated and cooled. This would weaken the cohesion of the PLA print to the glass. I have another posting where I asked how to heat this LARGE glass bed. However, there weren't any feasable (inexpensive and easy) solutions to heat the glass. So, now with cold glass, what are some good strategies for removing large 3d printed objects without breaking them or the glass?<issue_comment>username_1: Because you will be printing on unheated glass, you will be using some form of adhesive material. If you use an off-the-shelf glue stick, you will likely find it is water soluble. If the bed is removable, immersing it in warm water for a relaxing soak will provide easier model removal. I don't have experience with various tapes, so will avoid recommendations regarding masking tapes or similar material. Thermal cycling will also provide release. Not a heat gun, as that will break the glass, but a hair dryer applied to the underside near the model, then cooling. Repeat until it releases. I have used the Fleks3D print plate on my Flux Delta printer in the past, and it releases "like magic" but I don't think they make monster sheets of your printer size. I had also purchased a pair of 20" square Fleks3D plates for a similarly sized printer that never materialized. I'd be happy to sell you the pair, but I think they are too small for your full plate. It has been said that one can use sand-blasted acrylic, which I believe is the construction of the aforementioned Fleks3D plates. If you have access to 1/8" or 3mm acrylic and can apply a uniform blast of abrasive, you may be able to construct your own easy-release build plate. It is practical to consider to use a raft for your large builds. Rafts are useful for small items, to provide a greater bonding surface and avoid release, but it also provides a "wedging" location for your release tool. You can more easily slice away the middle of the raft and deal with a thinner layer after the model is completely freed. EDIT ADD: If the bed is not removable, one can build a dam around the model with clay to hold the water for dissolving the glue. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: It is quite common to print PLA on blue painters tape (such as [this](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064N00DE)). This makes print removal very easy, since you can remove the tape entirely for those parts that don't pop off by themselves. On the downside, you might experience issues with the tape itself lifting from the bed when printing parts that wrap a lot. A *wide* tape that adheres well to the glass can alleviate this issue. Also, make sure to thoroughly clean the bed before applying the tape. That being said, if you print large parts that warp a lot, most blue painters tape that I have tried will eventually release from the glass to some degree. If you manage to strike a balance between stickiness and removability when using a glue stick/hair spray/PVA-mix etc., such solutions might be favourable. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: 3M Blue decorators tape works well for me. You can get it in different widths. I find giving it a little sand paper rub before each print helps corners to stay down and improves first layer print. I replace about every 10 prints depending on the importance of the print. Upvotes: 1

2016/09/03

<issue_start>username_0: I am designing an part for my car. It is a panel for the rear door. I want to add it some cases for tools, but before going on, could you tell me: It is a large flat panel, around 100cm by 35cm. **Is it going to be suitable for printing in that ABS material? Is it too big?** [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqGB7.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: It is a huge part that would not fit in most 3D printers, do you have access to a 3D printer this big? Even if it does fit it will take a long time to print. Considering it's a simple flat shape, maybe laser cut / CNC acrylic or wood would be better, as you will have a stronger part, and most likely faster and cheaper. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: ABS would be fine, as a material, for the application. The problem, given the scale, would be the printing device used. I would suggest that you have the piece cut to spec for you using a polycarbonate. If you have access to a workshop you could do so yourself if you set up proper fencing using a larger sized bandsaw(with a very fine toothed blade), had rollers to help support the size of your piece(as it would not fit on the tool's platform) and likely need a second set of hands to help control the outfeed. You would also need to drill access for the cut out then cut the perimetre. You could also consider printing(ABS) in smaller sections then fusing each section together edge to edge(solvent welding of ABS is very strong and permanent), if you were really dead set on using a typical 3D printer for this. It would, in theory, be possible, but it would be very tedious. The adhesives, and cleaner, would be available from any plumbing supply and/or (home depot, lowes, walmart et al.). If you go this route be sure to have ample ventilation and plan your work space well in advance. I would not recommend this option but it is "possible". Given the scale of the piece though, and for sake of accuracy, going to a shop with CNC equipment and using polycarbonate would be your best bet. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2016/09/04

<issue_start>username_0: I was wondering if anyone could give me tips for designing a 3d printable structure that can "pinch" down onto a hockey puck shaped piece and hold it tightly. I'd like for the structure to normally want to "pinch" two edges together, but I can pry/force them open when I shove the hockey puck into it. Once I let go, the two ends are now holding the puck fairly tightly. My first thought was something like a potato chip bag clip, but that would require a couple pieces and a spring. Is there a way to do something like this with one solid piece?<issue_comment>username_1: Here are first 3 the most simplified and generalized options you have: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XmHnf.png) All you need now is to give use more details about your needs. If you reveal more details we could help you to apply (and modify) one of these options. Each of above has its own pros and cons of course. You said you don't want to have spring... so maybe a rubber ;) But in fact whole-red is one-piece-clip in which the force comes from material elesticity or stiffness. Please tell me what is the application of such clip. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If you are looking for a solid piece, the red one username_1 showed is the best. An important consideration for something like this is making sure that it is able to flex outwards around the puck without fracturing. In order to keep the stress low in the arms, you can reduce the stiffness by either: * Increasing the length of the arm * Decreasing the thickness of the arm in the direction it deflects This might be helpful in designing it to be printed. If your part breaks when inserting the puck, make the arms longer or thinner. If you aren't getting enough force, the in-plane thickness (coming out of your computer screen) can be thickened to your heart's content without changing the stress. Upvotes: 0

2016/09/05

<issue_start>username_0: Good morning everyone, I am developing a consulting job in a clinic of dental CT scans. This work involves the development of administrative software, and preparing a routine for conversion of tomographic files in DICOM format to STL format. The files in STL format will be used for both visualization and analysis of 3D models, such as printing in 3D printers. Our problem is just the conversion DICOM to STL. Has anyone come across this kind of situation? We did not find any documentation or tool for this purpose in our searches and we are really with a gande urgency in the solution. Advance grateful for any assistance.<issue_comment>username_1: there is a nice software to do it, a brazilian one, called Invesalius (<http://svn.softwarepublico.gov.br/trac/invesalius>). Itksnap is probably a better initial choise, since it is more intuitive (<http://www.itksnap.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php>). But anymways, it is not a easy job to do, and probably you will need other softwares to help you clean the mesh, like meshlab or Geomagic. Good luck Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The marching cubes algorithm can convert voxel data into a surface mesh. A global threshold to determine the surface in the greyvalues is used. This [article](https://pyscience.wordpress.com/2014/09/11/surface-extraction-creating-a-mesh-from-pixel-data-using-python-and-vtk/) might be helpful. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: There is this software that should work: <https://www.slicer.org/> If that doesn't cut it, I use this site to convert images to STL: <http://www.online-convert.com/> They do have DICOM listed as a supported format, but whether it would convert correctly or not I can't say for sure. I've had varied results. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Yes, invesalius (free software) is the way to go. I was able to export a CT scan a few months back using invesalius to either OBJ or STL format for 3d printing (can't remember which). But i do remember i was then able to open it in Lulzbot's version of Cura (a free 3d printing slicing software). But there are 2 things to keep in mind. 1. The image i was able to export was a huge file. 2. The image i exported had lots of extra junk that i did not want to 3d print, so another software like meshmixer or some other mesh editing software would probably be needed. It's not an easy process, but it can be done for those willing to do it. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: This software *may* be of some use to you. Whilst looking into [software/firmware for a Frankensbox FX-800](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/18141/4762), I came across this document [For medical use - Dedicated series 3D printer](http://dedibot.com/file/download/3926bbd3566247d6a80d79dfbff45196), on the Dedibot website, which on page 4 states the following: > > [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mqkw9.png "MIR - scanned text") > > > The relevant part (in text form) is this: > > It can be used to read DICOM format CT/MRI/Micro CT/Micro MRI/Industrial CT images and non-DICOM common image formats BMP/TIFF and so on. > > > Upvotes: 0

2016/09/05

<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to print a model I designed in Blender on Shapeways. The object has a hole in it: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCaGP.png) But when I upload it to Shapeways as a STL file, fixed the sizes, but the hole is filled up in the preview window for the object in Shapeways: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6P9iO.png) What could cause this? Will the model print properly? (I cannot share the model here).<issue_comment>username_1: Double-check that your model is solid (i.e. watertight). Holes in the mesh, or (as other's mentioned in the comments) or problems with thickness can cause those issues. You can use [Netfabb's Cloud Services](https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/), or download the free version of their app. There are other model repair services, too. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Just like the other already have mentioned, most likely your model has 3D printing errors. Either way, I would run it through a repairing service just to make sure it's free of 3D printing errors. I repair my models using this free automatic tool <https://makeprintable.com/> Upvotes: 1

2016/09/08

<issue_start>username_0: I'm writing this question here hoping someone will be able to help me with the fixing process that I'm currently involved in! Last week during a printing session my Ultimaker original unexpectedly stop working. The problem was on the extruder step motor which push the filament from the back and literally is not moving anymore! The first thing I have done was to check if the motor was burn or something similar. So I swap the extruder motor with the X-axis one and it then worked fine. Then later the X-axis motor into the extruder connector and is not moving! so I decided to check the step driver and they seems to work all well. So the problem must be on the Arduino or on the motherboard! I bought new step driver a new step motor and new Arduino + motherboard, connected all up and nothing, still not working for the same reason! It is just the extruder motor that won't work anymore! Do you guys have some idea or tips to find out what the problem can be or how can be fixed in alternative ways? Your help will be much appreciated and looking forward for some answers.<issue_comment>username_1: Your title says "x-axis" but your description leads me to think that your extruder is the part that's not working. Here are some tips which may (or may not) help... * Make sure your extruder is not clogged. * Make sure your temperature setting is high enough to allow the filament to melt quickly enough to support your print speed. If your extruder stepper is getting very hot, you may be pushing it too hard. Modern stepper drivers have various protections that will cause them to shut down in this situation. (Over current or thermal shutdown being the most likely in this case) * If you swap stepper motors and swap stepper drivers and the issue stays with your extruder, look for other things that you haven't swapped. * You haven't swapped the extruder, so the problem could be there as I mentioned above. * If you haven't swapped wires, the problem could be there...I've struggled through troubleshooting many times because of intermittent connections in wires. Since 3d printers have moving wires, this is a prime suspect in older machines. * Rule out all of the easy and cheap stuff before you conclude that it must be the main board...it could be, but it's probably not. * Seek help in the Ultimaker forums or with their technical support. Printers, like cars, tend to have certain things that are more prone to failure as the machines get old and worn. The Ultimaker techs will know these things and can help you pin down your issue. Good luck! I hope you solve your issue and that this answer is helpful. :-) Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm not sure I know exactly what is wrong or what steps you've taken so far, but it seems like your extruder motor is broken and you've narrowed the problem down to electronics. If so, replacing the Arduino, motor, and driver leaves only the Ultimaker PCB as the source of the problem. I would suggest ordering another - but not until you've contacted Ultimaker with the problem you're outlining here. Upvotes: 2

2016/09/14

<issue_start>username_0: I have used cyanoacrylate glue aka superglue to bond PLA. I have created several electronics enclosures. (Definitely the most time-consuming part of the project.) Now my question is which debonder/solvent can I use to separate the pieces again without destroying the PLA parts? Wikipedia proposes the following: * nitromethane * dimethyl sulfoxide, * methylene chloride, * gamma-Butyrolactone.<issue_comment>username_1: **Acetone** Acetone will dissolve cynoacrylate (superglue) and should weaken it enough to be able to separate the parts. A readily available cheap source of acetone is nail varnish remover (just make sure you don't buy the acetone free version!). Give the pieces a soak in nail varnish remover for 10-20 minutes and they should come apart with some prying. Acetone does not dissolve PLA, so the PLA parts should be undamaged. If you were to try this on ABS parts however, they would begin to dissolve. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Gamma butyrolactone is by far the best product to remove cyanoacrylate and also great to dissolve PLA. Upvotes: -1

2016/09/14

<issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for a strong filament that can handle a large tension load and no bending deformation when a perpendicular force is applied to it. Any suggestions?<issue_comment>username_1: As far as I know, Nylon filaments are among the strongest. I'd look at the technical specs of [Taulman3D's Filament](http://taulman3d.com/index.html). They're the only nylon I've ever tried, and I know they have in-depth specs of how their filament holds up. I'm sure you can find other providers, though. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Carbon or glass fiber reinforced PLA likely has the strongest without deformation. PLA will snap before deforming. Fiber reinforced ABS is also an option. ABS is stronger but will bend before breaking. Both are hard on nozzles and may require a stainless steel nozzle. Upvotes: 2

2016/09/15

<issue_start>username_0: My [12V DC 30A Power Supply 360W Power Supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) is really cheap, and it's worked well for setting up the motors; but now that I'm on to the heated bed, which uses considerably more Ampage than that of just the motors, I'll confess, I'm getting frightened to continue using it; if the summer was a bit longer, maybe it wouldn't bother me, but we're getting into the cold months, and now I'm afraid of ending up using too much ampage just trying to heat the bed in the winter months...(and I don't mean my bed). Is there anything I should look out for in terms of using the either the cheap power supply I already have, or are there certain specs on a new not-so-cheap power supply that I ought to be using instead?<issue_comment>username_1: A MK2 heatbed will draw around 12A. The motors and hotend draw only very little power (around 2A, 5A peak), so the 30A supply you have has significant headroom (it is often recommended to derate a power supply by 20%, so a 30A supply would be good for 24A - you're still well under that). It should work fine, even given its dubious provenance. Winter versus summer should not make a big difference. The largest power draw is during the heat up phase. In winter, the bed will use slightly more power to stay warm, but regardless of whether it is summer or winter the peak power draw during heat up will be the same. The cheapness of these supplies tends to be reflected in more output ripple (but for heating the bed and running the motors you don't need a very stable voltage) and improper filtering. This may inject noise back into the mains, possibly affecting other equipment nearby. Should this occur, you can just stop using the power supply. However, in my experience, they can deliver the rated power just fine. They're not completely horrible. Your biggest concern should be whether the wires that lead to your heated bed can handle the current and whether the screw terminals are properly tightened. During the first use, you should check that the power supply does not get extremely hot. If it's so hot it's impossible to touch for more than 1-2 seconds you should not use it. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I've used a similar cheap psu before. It'll work without blowing up but my heatbed struggled to get up to 60c, swapped psus with one I had lying around from a desktop and there was a huge difference. Upvotes: 2

2016/09/17

<issue_start>username_0: I have an M3D Micro 3D printer that printed fine for a couple of weeks and then was plagued with issues afterward. I've done the fixes from the forum to get proper heating and cooling of the nozzle (I've added aluminum foil around the nozzle to make sure the hotend is fit snug against the nozzle and I've added an external fan, powered externally, to compensate for heat creep). This works very well for short prints and it usually finishes successfully. When I do a longer print it always stops midway and usually at the same exact point. I tried printing at 200 °C with black PLA and then again at 215 °C with the same filament and it stops at the same exact point. I also tried M3D brand white filament. I am using CURA slicer with Octoprint GCODE sender and M3D Fio. I know it is not clogged because if I stop the print and press extrude without letting it cool down, it extrudes fine. What is causing my printer to stop printing?<issue_comment>username_1: Placing this suggestion as an answer, because all information appears to point to the slicer software and/or the operating system. Consider to use alternative methods of slicing and sending the model, such as the previously mentioned [Craftware](https://craftunique.com/craftware) or other free slicers, such as [Slic3r](http://slic3r.org/download) - both of which have Linux versions. If, as you suggest, your firmware is so tied down that it won't run alternate versions without re-flashing, that would be your next step. Unfetter yourself from the limitations of the current suspect software. If you are able to use other slicers and discover that the problem remains, the re-flashing of the firmware is likely the only solution. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm not sure how similar the two systems are, but I use a Stratasys uPrint SE Plus and I've run into a similar problem. There are two rollers in the head that pull the filament through to the extruder nozzle, and in one instance they appeared to have heated up, melted the filament enough to create two "indentions" on either side of the filament, making it such that the rollers had no purchase on the filament itself. There was never any clog, no material feed error, but it was still failing to print. Wound up having to replace the head altogether. Again, not sure how similar the extrusion mechanics are in the M3D, but suggest checking the components that actually advance the filament, and the filament itself. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2016/09/17

<issue_start>username_0: I've built the mechanics of my 3D printer myself, because I need to print parts that are really huge, (and for budget reasons). **So, I already have the 3D movement functionality.** But what I need now, is the printing mechanism itself. I've been reading a lot, but it became clear to me that things are more complicated than I thought. Let's skip mechanics and software, I'm just interested in how the print head works. Can somebody explain me that? To be honest, I was so naive that I thought that I just had to buy one part with one data wire (print/noprint) and the 5 V/GND wires. But it came to my intension that things are way more complicated. For example, these RepRap printers have some kind of air tube attached to the print head. I'm not sure what that's all about, is it cooling? Perhaps I'm always reading the wrong manuals (i.e. the more advanced ones). Can somebody enlighten me or point me to a good starting point?<issue_comment>username_1: The first point to start would be the RepRap wiki entry for [extruders](http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Extruders): > > ### cold end > > > The "Cold End" is usually the bulk of the extruder. It is > often the actual carriage on one axis and supports the rest of the > parts. In some designs, the "Cold End" is split into two parts; one > part does the driving of the filament that is stationary and connected > to the carriage portion, of a lighter weight design for easier > movement, with a flexible tube. The drive is a motor that rotates a > knurled, hobbed, or toothed pinch wheel against a pressure plate or > bearing with the filament forced between them. Usually, the motor is > geared to the pinch wheel to increase available torque and extrusion > control (smoothness). The gearing can be a 3D printed pinion and gear, > stock worm wheel and gear, or a more expensive integral motor gearbox. > Stepper motors are used almost universally after initial trials with > DC motors did not achieve the required repeatability. Servo motors are > an option, though they are not seen in the literature yet. The final > function, some form of cooling, keeps the "Cold End" cold. With the > close proximity to the "Hot End" and possible heated build platforms > and enclosures, it is sometimes necessary to have additional passive > or active cooling of the cold end parts. Heat sinks and fans are often > used; water and Peltier effect cooling is also discussed. Much of this > bulk is usually made from 3D printed parts and the temperature is > maintained within safe limits. > > > ### hot end attachment > > > The "Cold End" is > connected to the "Hot End" across a thermal break or insulator (the > Bowden tube if used is on the cold side of this thermal break). This > has to be rigid and accurate enough to reliably pass the filament from > one side to the other, but still prevent much of the heat transfer. > The materials of choice are usually PEEK plastic with PTFE liners or > PTFE with stainless steel mechanical supports or a combination of all > three. A Hot End is frequently joined to the Cold End using a Groove > Mount where the thermal break or insulator is part of the Hot End > assembly and the Cold End body is provisioned with a cylindrical > recess. Many cold ends push the filament out a large hole centered > between 2 small holes about 50 mm apart. (Is there a name for this > de-facto standard?) Some people rigidly attach a groove mount hot end > to such a cold end with the mounting plate adapter and two short > bolts. A few people put 2 long bolts through those holes and then put > a spring around those bolts to make a spring extruder. > > > ### hot end > > > The > "Hot End" is the active part of the 3D printer that melts the > filament. It allows the molten plastic to exit from the small nozzle > to form a thin and tacky bead of plastic that will adhere to the > material it is laid on. The first RepRap hot end was made of brass. > Researchers have also made hot ends from glass or aluminium. The hot > end consists of a melting zone or chamber with two holes. The cold end > forces the filament into the hot end -- into the heating chamber of > the hot end -- through one hole. The molten plastic exits the heating > chamber through the other hole at the tip. The hole in the tip > (nozzle) has a diameter of between 0.3mm and 1.0mm with typical size > of 0.5mm with present generation extruders. Outside the tip of the > barrel is a heating means, either a wire element or a standard wire > wound resistor. The heat required is of the order of 20W with typical > temperatures around 150 to 250 degrees Centigrade. For feedback > control of the nozzle temperature, a thermistor is usually attached > close to the nozzle, though a thermocouple may serve with suitable > control hardware. High temperature materials are needed here. These > include metals, cements and glues, glass and mineral fibre materials, > PEEK, PTFE and Kapton tape. > > > ### mount to rest of machine > > > The ways > extruders are mounted on the rest of the machine have evolved over > time into informal mounting standards. These informal standards > include the Vertical X Axis Standard, the Quick-fit extruder mount, > the OpenX mount, etc. Such de-facto standards allows new extruder > designs to be tested on existing printer frames, and new printer frame > designs to use existing extruders. (Does the "greg-adapter.scad" > adapter in the Prusa i3 Build Manual let me mount an OpenX extruder on > a Vertical X Axis machine?) > > > You can also google for extruder and/or hotend in combination with 3d printing for a first starting point. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You will certainly find that the print functionality of a 3d printer is a bit more complex than you suggest. The mechanical portions include a means to push the filament into a heated nozzle as well as the software portion to regulate the speed of the filament movement. You haven't referenced the heater cartridge and temperature sensor, but you will discover that aspect soon enough. The "air tube" you think you've seen is likely called a bowden tube. Such designs permit lighter weight print heads, which is beneficial for speed, acceleration and precision, but has complications with respect to compression of the filament as well as retraction considerations. Non-bowden print heads will have the extruder motor as part of the moving assembly, with the drive wheels very close to the nozzle opening. This allows for flexible filament and more precise control of the filament feed. Either design has compromises, so one must determine priorities for the design. Cooling is also a factor. The heater cartridge is designed to heat the nozzle to a specific temperature for the type of filament used, but also requires a means to keep the heat from traveling to the portion of filament not in the nozzle. You'll discover terms such as heat break, referring to narrow threaded portion connecting the nozzle assembly to the heat sink. There will also be a cooling fan to blow air over the heat sink and very often a cooling fan to cool the filament as it exits the nozzle and attaches to the model being printed. You suggest to ignore the mechanics and software, but it's important to be aware of both when considering the principles of the print head assembly. Simplified, filament enters bowden tube then into heat sink, pushed by extruder motor (or) filament is pushed into heat sink by extruder motor. Filament travels through heat break, gets melted in heater block and exits nozzle. Sheesh, that's way too simple. Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]

2016/09/20

<issue_start>username_0: I recently finished building my first printer. The only problem that I'm having is that the hotend is not getting hot enough to start printing with PLA (180 to 230 degrees celsius), the hotend getting hotter stops at 170 degrees. Please help I've been stuck on this problem for days. Thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: Usually, this kind of problem is due to an issue with the control loop of the temperature. You can try to do [PID Tuning](http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning) by running the command `M303 E0 S200 C8`. This will heat up the hot end and cycle it around 200C a few times, and afterwards tell you Kp, Ki and Kd values which you need to enter into the PID settings of your firmware configuration, or store them in EEPROM using `M301`. If this does not solve the problem, then disconnect the heater cartridge and check its resistance with a multimeter. For a 12V system, it should not be higher than 6Ω (24Ω for a 24V system). If the heater cartridge is okay, then perhaps it is a problem with the power supply. While the hotend is heating up, measure the voltage across the heater cartridge. It should not be much less than the nominal 12V/24V your printer runs at. If it is, you may have a bad MOSFET or power supply. Finally, if you have a very powerful fan blowing on the hotend this can cause issues with heating up as well. Adding a fan shroud (or pointing the fan away from the nozzle and only at the print) can help with this. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: There are software limits that might be set low by default depending on the software you are using. I know there is with Marlin. Upvotes: 0

2016/09/21

<issue_start>username_0: I have built a RepRap Prusa i2 a while back. It worked for a while, but then I moved the printer from place to place and after a while I noticed that the printer's bed is not heating anymore. The thermistor shows the temperature (room temperature), but the bed is not heating. The wires are connected and the heated bed has a resistance. Did anyone else confronted with this? Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: It's probably a fuse or the MOSFET fried? Try checking for continuity on the fuse and voltage on the MOSFET. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have a Prusa i3 and the same case happened to me. I checked the continuity of the wires and discovered one badly soldered wire in the heated bed. After soldering the wire correctly, the heated bed turned on again. Your problem is in all likelihood the continuity of the wires. I hope that I helped you with your case. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: diagnosing a heated bed ======================= Switch the hot end and the heater bed wires on the board. See if there is a difference. (Note that it will not reach a thermal limit when plugged in this way! So don't leave it on too long!) After that, if you see that your heat increases with the hot end's wires and the hot end being set on in software then you know the issue is likely with the board. At which point try updating / reflashing the board. Alternatively, you can try a second board and see if it makes a difference. If the bed does not heat up even using the heater cartridge connectors, then your heated build plate likely needs to be replaced. Or the wire needs to be replaced. If you are running Ramps or a board that uses 2 hot end outputs you can likely reprogram it to use hot end heater 2 as the new output for your heated bed. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: Be extremely cautious if you switch the hot end wires with the hot bed wires as username_3 said, only do it for a couple seconds and stop as ***soon*** as you've confirmed that temperature is going up. I did this on my FLSUN C Cube and it started smoking something fierce and just about lit on fire within seconds of my turning on the extruder with the wires swapped. I suggest you be extremely quick and also don't do this by a smoke detector if you attempt it: just in case. This is pretty much guaranteed to happen due to the amount of current draws the two components use being vastly different. I re-flashed my board and it still did not work, probably should have done that in reverse order, please learn from that mistake haha. I seem to have somehow burned out my heated bed mosfet (prior to switching the wires) and have the same problem that you do, I'm just going to buy another board because it's pretty cheap but for the sake of future people with this problem to solve I'd: 1. check connections, especially at the screw connectors as they have a nasty habit of getting worn 2. use a multimeter in DC voltage mode, put your black (-) probe on the ***DC*** power negative lead, turn on the hotbed and using your red (+) probe make sure you are getting about 12V through all your relevant connections including the fuses (mine are very tiny surface mount fuses, 15a and 30a located right behind the power supply, don't know how standard that is for all printers though) 3. If everything checks out so far then cry a little bit 4. It's probably a burned out mosfet (buggers are sensitive) but just in case, re-flash your board and hope the problem goes away 5. test the mosfet for the heated bed with your multimeter (same way you tested everything else) 6. I don't suggest switching wires between the extruder and the heated bed except as a last resort to make sure your bed is working, but if you have resistance readings going through the bed and wires then your bed is not likely broken and this would be an unnecessary risk. If you are going to proceed anyway then do as follows: remove extruder and heated bed wires, plug bed wires into extruder terminal, hold the power cord in your hand, turn on the extruder and as soon as the number goes up by 3 degrees (or you see/smell smoke or crackling whichever comes first) pull the plug and pray you didn't burn anything on the board. Make sure you are by a window or door and can quickly extract smoke from the room so as not to set off the smoke alarm in your apartment complex like I very nearly did. Hope this helps somebody someday. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: I have a Prusa i3 and the same case happened to me. However, only the power cable to the mainboard was bad. I cut it in order to solder a new one to the 4 pin connector but inside the cable sleeving, there wasn't any copper, only grey powder. With a new connector, and cables, it is working very well now. Upvotes: 1

2016/09/21

<issue_start>username_0: So, I'm having this problem where almost anything I print with a section(s) that is not directly connected to something below it breaks when I try to pull the small filaments meant to hold it up during printing off. For example, I 3D-printed a Rayquaza([this one](https://www.myminifactory.com/object/rayquaza-23624)) from Pokemon for my little brother, and as I was carefully pulling the filament from under the mouth, the whole head just snapped off. Does someone have a recommendation as to a way to get the small filament off without breaking the object? Would a solution just be to print it bigger and see if it holds up better, or is there something else I can do? Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: The small filaments you remove that hold the parts up are called supports. The one model I located on Thingiverse clearly requires a number of supports, as the model is not easily designed for 3d printing with FDM printers. It would be better printed with SLS, but that's not the focus of your question. You don't specify how large you printed the model, but certainly a scaled-up version will be stronger at the weak points. You will want to use sharp non-shearing cutters to clear away as much of the supports as possible, without torquing on the model. Another option which also reduces the forces on the model body is to use a soldering iron to smooth and clear/cut the supports. If you are able to use cutters and not damage the model, the soldering iron can remove and flatten the remnants of those supports. Please note that if your careful work has resulted in a model that snaps to pieces, your little brother will soon destroy the successfully cleaned up model just as easily. If you have skill with 3d modeling software (Meshmixer and Blender come to mind for such organic models), you can add insignificant items to the model to provide functional support. Would the Rayquaza look fiercer if you 3d printed a cage as an integrated part of the model, using the bars of the cage to provide support? I successfully printed a model that was created by an artist unfamiliar with 3d printing restrictions. The support material was wash-away PVA. I provided the model to the "owner" who washed away the support material and snapped the legs in two. It's sometimes impossible to solve poor designs. You have a good chance if you build a cage for this one. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Depends how small your printing, if it's the one i see on thingiverse then it don't see why it would break unless: 1. it's super small 2. too many or strong support that's hard to pull off? 3. Not calibrated for the filament - eg temperature too low or too much fan and the layer's aren't properly bonding. 4. Too much moisture in the filament making it weak 5. Needs more infill at the weak spots? (ex. if the neck is thin then infill other than 50-100 is a good idea if you can control that in your slicer). i would start with the temps/adjusting settings. really hard to say without a reference photo. However, i would try a stronger material for toys such as PETG either way. from experience they'll just break easily anyway from the abuse kids put them through. PETG has good layer bonding and easy to print, except it's terrible at bridging. Supports will most likely need to be cliped off with side cutters but it's not a huge deal. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: To increase the strength of small parts I do: * Increase the nozzle size to layer height ratio. While 2 is the most popular choice (0.4 nozzle for 0.2 layer) the science behind the process really recommends around 4 (0.7 nozzle for 0.2 layer). * Increase the number of outer shells. I made dragons with great wings with 4 shells and no infill. * Typical things: raise temp, reduce speed. Upvotes: 2

2016/09/24

<issue_start>username_0: On their website they say the following ``` 0.25 mm nozzle: 150 to 60 micron 0.40 mm nozzle: 200 to 20 micron 0.60 mm nozzle: 400 to 20 micron 0.80 mm nozzle: 600 to 20 micron ``` That confuses me. Why can I go down to 20 micron with the 0.40, 0.60 and 0.80 nozzle but only down to 60 micron with the much smaller 0.25 nozzle? Is that a typo and should say 6 micron?<issue_comment>username_1: You need a certain minimum flow rate to achieve consistent extrusion. Flow rate is the product of print speed, extrusion width (proportional to nozzle size) and print speed. If you use a very small nozzle and very low layer height, you'd need a very high printing speed to achieve a reasonable flow rate. Therefore, it's quite possible this is not a mistake and intentional. Keep in mind that Ultimaker uses 2.85mm filament. With a 0.3mm extrusion width, 0.02mm layer height and 60mm/s print speed, you would need a feedrate of 0.06mm/s into your extruder. The extruder might not be able to develop enough force on the filament at such a low speed (which, owing to the small nozzle size, requires a relatively large amount of force). The ultimaker can not print 6 micron layers since the smallest increment the Z-axis can move in is 5 microns. 6 microns is not a multiple of that. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: In addition of username_1's answer, when the filament moves too slowly through the heated part of the printhead it is very likeley to clog. I have had this multiple times on my UM1+, most of the time resulting from a heated printhead with no extrusion (before or after prints). So you need to be sure to have a minimum of filament extrusion happening, wich is most likeley not the case when having 0.25mm \* 20 micron instead of 0.60mm \* 20micron, for example. You could of course make the printhead move faster, resulting in a higher extrusion, but that will lower the print quality again. But let me tell you this: Always look out for high extrusion, removing clogs is a real pain! Upvotes: 2

2016/09/29

<issue_start>username_0: My wife wants me to use an FFM 3d printer to make custom stamps for her to use on paper (scrap books, letters, etc.). She is convinced, however, that they will be too rigid to make good stamps. A quick google search showed ones made from [PLA](https://3dprint.com/110918/3d-printed-stamp-collection/) and [ABS](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3669). Logically, though, a TPU or similar would address her concerns. A good quality stamp needs to hold ink and make good, even contact with the paper. It would probably need to be able to be sanded or smoothed in some way. I am supposed to receive my printer next week or so and am trying to get some filaments, STL files, and accessories I will need ready in advance so I can rapidly learn how to use it.<issue_comment>username_1: Recently I've experimented with printing some [Nylon 618 filament](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00TOOBPNO) after [reading stuff online](http://www.matterhackers.com/articles/printing-with-nylon) about it. I'm using a Craftbot original with the stock hotend, keeping the Nylon dry in a ziploc bag. It prints really well, just tricky to get it to stick to the bed (I'm still working on that), but otherwise it's great. Once printed, the main difference from PLA prints is the nylon remains more flexible. If you bend a thin nylon print, it tends to just spring back to the shape that came off the printer. That's very different from my PLA prints, which will either stay bent or break apart. I believe that nylon would be a good material for you to try for stamps, because of this flexibility and shape-preserving quality. The comments show some other materials to try, but I'm limiting my answer here to my own personal experience. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I see three options... **1. Print with a flexible filament:** * Many options: TPU as you pointed out, the flexible PLA that Tom mentioned, and others. Here's an article with a few options from [Matter Hackers](https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/which-flexible-3d-printing-filament-should-you-choose-61961/) * I'd suggest printing the stamp side down so you get a nice flat stamp with no post processing. For any wide gaps, mind your bridging...use fillets or chamfers so the "roof" of the gap is an upside down V or U shape. **2. Print with any hard filament, but use a rubber mat under the paper.** * The idea here is to use a semi-flexible surface under the paper to help get uniform contact pressure between the paper and the hard stamp. As long as your stamp holds ink, this should work okay. **3. Print your stamp shape, then use it to make a rubber stamp.** * Making a model and then copying it with your desired non-printable material is a common manufacturing technique that can be used in many situations. Use of molds for casting and related processes can really expand your possibilities. Check out [Smooth On](https://www.smooth-on.com/). They have several rubber and flexible compounds that you could use for stamps. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2016/09/29

<issue_start>username_0: I know I should use different nozzles for filaments that use vastly different temperatures but what about filament types that use similar temperatures? For example, PLA and PLA composites like ColorFabb Woodfill filament. Should I use a separate nozzle for that?<issue_comment>username_1: There is absolutely no reason to use different nozzles, *not even if filaments do require different temperatures*. The only exception is when printing abrasive filaments (such as glow-in-the-dark and carbon-fiber) in which case you should use an abrasion-resistant, stainless steel nozzle. This nozzle can also be used to to print "regular" filaments but a regular brass nozzle has slightly more favorable properties if you do not require abrasion resistance. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: It depends on the size of the nozzle you are using. If you are using a small nozzle, e.g. 0.2 mm, normally, you should increase the nozzle diameter (filament manufacturers often refer to about 0.5 mm nozzle diameters). Wood/cork, or whatever particle filled filament requires a somewhat larger diameter to prevent clogging. --- In addition to [Tom's answer](/a/2824/), note that there are stainless steel nozzles and hardened steel nozzles. The latter is harder than the prior and should be used for abrasive filaments, like filament filled with metal particles or some sort of abrasive fibres like glass or carbon fibre. Note that the addition of fibres or particles may require you to increase the nozzle diameter as fibres or particles may cause clogging. A last nozzle discussed is the nozzle with an embedded industrial Ruby, a design of <NAME>, a research engineer at Uppsala University, more information is found on the [Olsson Ruby website](https://olssonruby.com/anders-olsson-olsson-ruby/). From the Olsson Ruby website, the following interesting image is shown, comparing the wear resistance of the various nozzle materials up to 0.5 mm *(from left to right; brass, stainless steel and hardened steel by printing respectively 0.3 kg, 1.0 kg and 4 kg of carbon fibre filled filament)*: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7ckg.png "Nozzle material wear resistance compared") Upvotes: 2

2016/09/30

<issue_start>username_0: I have a weird problem with my old 3D printer, it is a Prusa/Mendel type. When I print a 20 mm cube, X and Y are correct, Z is resulting 16 to 17 mm. I have checked the correctness of the movement on Z using the manual controls and there are no issues. I played a bit with the layer thickness, I have a 0.4 mm nozzle, setting the layer height to 0.12 mm (normally is on 0.16 mm) but no changes in the result. I am printing PLA on a cold bed at 180 °C without any other particular defect. I would appreciate some direction on how to solve such problem.<issue_comment>username_1: You should check that the steps per mm for your Z-axis are set correctly. This depends on the pitch of the leadscrews/threaded rods driving the axis and parameters of your steppers (microstepping and raw steps/revolution). [This Calculator](http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/). Make sure that your layer height is a multiple of a full step of the Z-stepper. The Z-stepper may be disabled intermittently, and when re-enabled it may "snap" to the nearest full step position. If your layer height requires microstepping, you may notice it getting rounded down or up due to this. For instance, if a full step were 0.08 mm, then 0.16 mm layers would require 2 full steps, printing fine. 0.12 mm layers would require 1 full step and a half microstep. Due to rounding, some layers might be reduced to 0.08 mm instead. This might account for the height discrepancy you're seeing (though 0.08 mm is quite a high, unrealistic amount for a full-step). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You could check that the stepper driver IC for the z direction is not getting too hot while printing. If this is the case it may be that the current adjustment of the stepper driver is set incorrect causing it to skip steps. however you would expect the same behaviour in manual operation. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Thanks to your advices I pointed my effort on the root of the possible cause on the Z axis. I swapped the Polou driver between x and z and clearly noted that now the problem is on x. I had to conclude that the problem is with the Polou driver which randomly looses steps. What is surprising me is that on the Z axis I have two motor type Nema 14 which should work at 0,75A therefore 1,5 A total. The Polou driver, old type, is rated at 1A. So it is not a surprise, now that I have learned about this configuration, that the z driver is giving troubles. The problem was there since the beginning and with the ageing of the components it revealed itself. I will replace the actual Polou drivers with the new type rated at 2 A and restart from there. Thanks for the advices. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: A suitable test part for this problem, to check if the bad scaling is linear or the result of missing steps (as was identified in this case) would be a ramp, or sequence of steps. You can check the linearity using a straight edge, and would be able to perform repeated tests to identify of there was a specific Z location where steps were more likely to be lost (for example due to some tightness in the motion system). Upvotes: 0

2016/10/03

<issue_start>username_0: I am wondering if making an hermetic box is feasible using 3D printer. The box would be a cube with a front face removable, with screw and sealing joint to close it. I searched for different materials, however, none talks about hermiticity. (However, I found a product that seems to improve water resistance of 3D printed items [here](http://www.nanovia-technologies.com/...mperm-f10-ft-tds.pdf), which might be a starting point) Does anyone have experienced to make hermetic things ? I am specially interested in carbon fiber reinforced materials.<issue_comment>username_1: I believe this can be achieved using o-rings. That's what they use for scuba diving lights. The component doesn't need to be circular, but the o-ring needs to be slightly smaller than the component so that it is held in place via tension. Additionally, you'll want to create a groove for the o-ring to set it in and make sure that the o-ring protrudes slightly so that it applies pressure and creates a tiny amount of friction when it's coupled with its counterpart. Apply some type of lubricant to prevent the o-ring from sliding out of place and to keep it from drying out and cracking. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I have very little experience printing waterproof stuff. I printed a flower pot in *ABS* some time ago. Right after print it was leaking water. Then I processed the pot with acetone vapour to create a layer of melted ABS on the surface of the pot and then it became water-proof. As another option for non-solvable in acetone materials like PLA I would rub in some sealant paste to the surface, but I never have actually tried that. Another thing to consider: you should think carefully about your design and may be even conduct few experiments to verify printed part meets your mechanical criteria. Unlike injection molding, FDM prints are breaking more easily in some directions. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I'm currently working on a project where a kind of box has to stay underwater, and until now, the best hermetic system I found is using coatings. The best of them until now is PVC glue that I use on ABS as a coating with a little trowel. What I find nice is that's quick and that looks smoother and resistant. A disadvantage is that you need some practice to make something quite esthetic... An other option I've tried is a very fluid mastic call "Creeping crack cure" which is perfect for 3D print since the part literally drinks it. Then, when it's dry, it also acts like a glue and can reinforce the part. A disadvantage I have however is that the mastic becomes no more transparent when the part stays in water. Still not the perfect solution, but at least, no water goes through my parts :) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: A few thoughts that might help... **Material:** * ABS can be vapor smoothed with Acetone which results in the layers sort of "melting" together to form a smoother, and less porous surface. * Other plastics can be smoothed with compatible solvents, but I've not tried solvent smoothing with anything other than ABS. Be careful if you try. **Print Method:** * Consider slightly higher print temps to increase layer adhesion. You'll likely have to compensate with extra retraction to avoid excessive stringing. * Consider more perimeter layers and more top/bottom layers. * The CF materials are stiffened with chopped CF strands...I think it's a stretch to call them "reinforced" unless you happen to have a Markforged printer or similar. **Sealants:** This is probably your best bet. * Epoxy: Generally considered effective for producing hermetically sealed containers. Dip or brush on. Mind your VOC's and pay attention to working time. * Plasti-dip or similar sealants: These may be good enough for your application and result in a rubbery coating over your part. Good for water sealing, and may be close enough to hermetically sealed for your needs. **Design:** * To mechanically seal the opening, there are many options depending on your requirements. O-rings, gaskets, etc. If you use a rubberized dip, you may be able to skip the gasket. You could install a few threaded inserts around the perimeter of the opening, put in the screws, then dip. After drying, you slice around the screw and remove it (this just keeps the coating out of your threads) Dip the cover as well. Then when you screw on the cover, it will provide a water-tight seal. To help make a good seal, apply a silicone grease to the mating surface. I hope this helps. :-) Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2016/10/03

<issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to print with Laybrick and for the most part it is going. The problem lies with the top layer and gaps appearing. I've tried increasing the number of top layers but the gaps still appear. Any ideas what else I can try? I'm using Simplify3d. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y05dR.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: When using Simplify3D, you may try referring to their awesome troubleshooting guide: <https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#holes-and-gaps-in-the-top-layers> 3 reasons (from the guide) for gaps in the top layers: 1. under-extrusion: you may try to increase extrusion multiplier to see if this helps 2. low infill percentage: not likely in your case if increasing number of top layers did not help 3. not enough top layers: you already tried increasing number of top layers. In addition to that, you may change certain parameters (such as extrusion multiplier) for a given number of layers by using Simplify3D features. It can be helpful to avoid problems to for the rest of the model. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The solution was a combination of several items. The primary one was slowing down the top layer of the print significantly. I was using 3200 mm/min for the print and used the option 'solid fill underspeed' to slow down the top layers to 40%. I increased the top layers to 7. I also increased the infill, to ensure there was support in the tiny top pieces. I also decreased the minimum infill length to 0 to ensure the infill went in tiny places. Finally, I used the 'Concentric' external fill pattern. At some rotations of the model, I had slight gaps in the corners of the model, increasing the number of outline layers fixed it. I also decreased the temp to 160 compared to the initial print above. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ApjNq.jpg) Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]

2016/10/05

<issue_start>username_0: I've a friend who is expecting. There are several adorable weapon themed rattles on thingiverse. I am, however, concerned about safety associated with such a product in the hands of a baby who will gnaw on it. To me the safety concerns here are much larger than for most food handling applications. What steps should be taken to ensure such a print is safe for use? This includes: filament selection, pea material selection, wall thickness, smoothing, construction, etc. My current thoughts are as follows: "food grade PLA", dried peas, sanding, and single piece construction<issue_comment>username_1: You're on the right track. Since you asked for "steps" here you go: **Step 1. Choose a safe material:** Consider chemical safety and physical safety. Food grade PLA should be chemically safe, but could be too brittle depending on the design you choose. PETG, T-Glase, or similar filaments (depending on dye) are normally also chemically safe and are less brittle than PLA so may be a better alternative. ABS is NOT typically considered safe for food contact. **Step 2. Choose a safe design:** If using PLA, be sure the design is robust enough to ensure it won't break. Broken rattles with sharp edges make baby...sad. Even less brittle filaments can still break with jagged edges if the design is fragile. **Step 2a. Choose a single piece design:** Choose a design that requires you to add the peas (or other safe filler) during the print such that the finished rattle is fully enclosed. This will minimize parts becoming loose or peas spilling and minimize choke hazards. **Step 3. Consider post processing to improve safety:** Sanding could reduce ridges and minimize crevices that could harbor bacteria, but sealing it with a food-safe sealant may be more effective. There are many sealants that the FDA considers safe, but polyurethane or food-safe epoxy finishes will work well with PLA. (If you use a different material, test to verify good adhesion.) **Step 4. Test:** Make a test rattle and run it through the paces. I guess you could chew on it, but since babies don't have teeth, this might invalidate your data... **Step 5. Consider alternatives such as professional printing services:** If your tests don't inspire confidence, professional services can offer additional materials (metals, ceramics, etc.) that could be safer than a typical fused filament printer. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Also consider the nozzle on your printer. Most nozzles are made of brass, which is not considered food safe due to the presence of small amounts of lead. Stainless steel nozzles are available which will not perform quite as well as brass but are food safe. Upvotes: 2

2016/10/05

<issue_start>username_0: I 3d-printed a key. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sfuT.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XoGY3.jpg) When I put it in the lock the pins move but, when I go to turn it the key rips and the lock doesn't turn. I compared it to the real key and it's identical. Is there something I can do to make it work and not rip? Is there some filament that I can print it out of? I used ABS.<issue_comment>username_1: Which direction are the layers being printed? If the layers are printing top to bottom (in relation to your picture) there isn't a lot of sheer force required to break the key when turning. If you make the layers print from left to right you might have better luck. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: "You're going to need a bigger boat^H^H^H^H filament" . Perhaps one of the carbon-fiber-loaded filaments will hold up, or perhaps a bunch of silicone spray dumped into the lock cylinder is needed. If you want to get really fancy, start with a thin metal key blank and deposit the filament around that. This might give you enough structural strength. I don't know exactly how you'd print on three sides, as typical RepRaps and their ilk aren't set up to work around an object. Possibly printing with the key vertical and zero infil would allow you to insert a metal stiffener after printing. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: First step is to optimize the print, layers, shells and infill. While ABS should hold up, if optimized, for at least one use. It may not be the best filament. PLA actually tests higher [PLA vs ABS](https://eu.makerbot.com/fileadmin/Inhalte/Support/Datenblatt/MakerBot_R__PLA_and_ABS_Strength_Data.pdf). As I had posted in a comment, finishing ABS adds strength to the filament bundle. An acetone dip, vapor or hand wash of the part helps bond the outside edges. Parts that I make out of ABS for use on my car and motorcycle I vapor finish then polish with a soaked rag for a much more durable part. Comparison tests of filaments are out there for the searching [SUCH AS THIS ONE](https://www.matterhackers.com/news/filament-strength-testing) which compares strength of common filaments in use as a caribiner. But finding one that does a true comparison like the ABS vs PLA that I linked I have not seen. If you do look at other filaments I would avoid ones like iron, stainless, brass, carbon fiber, etc. as these actually are shown to be reduced in strength as the particles suspended lower the filament bonding. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: That is correct! Take your raw ABS plastic and try to bend and break it. Do it again with a few lengths. Pretty easy to break it right? You issue is the material is not up to par with your goal. Your heavy duty lock takes too much force to turn. Your solutions are to 1. Find a stronger material. These are considered stronger than PLA / ABS * PVA * PET * Polycarbonate * PETT (SHATTERS!) * POM, Acetal 2. Use the PLA to make a lossless cast of the key and use metal 3. Find a easier lock and or invest in oil for the lock. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: I must admit, I've never printed a key...but I think I can help anyway: **Print method:** Consider printing on side, solid concentric infill. Or, if you can't manipulate your infill pattern, just increase the perimeter so you get the same effect, several continuous perimeter layers around the outline of the key. **Print material:** * Elongation before break is important here in addition to tensile strength...you need it to be stiff enough, but not brittle. * **ABS, PLA, or HIPS:** Not likely to be successful...but maybe. * **PETG and PETG based filaments like T-Glase, N-Vent, nGen, INOVA-1800:** A little better, but still likely to deform and/or break. + **Polycarbonate:** Great for this, but is a fairly advanced material which tends to require pre-drying, enclosures, and PVA for hold down as well as a hot end that can handle at least 290C. + **Nylons:** Good, but most Nylons may be more "bendy" than you want for this. + **Taulman's Alloy 910:** Bingo. This should work nicely if you'd rather not struggle with printing polycarbonate. Alloy 910 prints near ABS settings, sticks well on a PVA-treated heated bed. (I use 85C for bed) + I would not suggest a CF filled filament for this because they tend to be brittle. **Matter Hacker's NylonX** with CF is a possible exception since it's nylon based, but I haven't tested it...yet. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]