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nationalism, against racism is what makes it possible for a society |
like this to function. And of course the next step in that process |
must be the personal element. I don’t see anyone attempting or even |
suggesting this phase, however, and that is troublesome, for without |
this step socialism remains at the mercy of an incomplete vision, |
imposed from the outside. We have internal desires but outside |
controls. But at least there is a climate here that seems to encourage |
those questions. I asked Helen about the Jews, and she was rather |
evasive, I think, saying only that there were Jews in government. |
The basic position seems to be one of a presumption of equality, |
even though there is sometimes a large gap between the expectation |
and the reality. |
We visited a film studio and saw several children’s cartoons |
which handled their themes beautifully, deeply, with great humor, |
and most notably, without the kind of violence that we have come |
to associate with cartoons. They were truly delightful. |
After two very busy days of meetings in Tashkent, we started out |
at about 7:30 one morning by bus for Samarkand, the fabulous city |
of Tamerlane the Great. After a short snooze on the bus I began to |
feel a little more human, to look about me and the countryside. |
We’re heading southeast from Tashkent, and Tashkent was |
southeast of Moscow. The countryside is very beautiful. It feels |
strange and familiar at the same time. This is cotton country. Miles |
and miles of it, and trainloads of students were coming south from |
Moscow on a two-week vacation to party and pick cotton. There was |
a holiday atmosphere all around. We passed through small villages |
where I could see little markets with women sitting cross-ankled on |
the bare earth selling a few cabbages or a small tray of fruit. And |
walls, behind which you could see adobe houses. Even the walls |
themselves reminded me very much of West Africa, made of a clay |
mud that cracks in the same old familiar patterns that we saw over |
and over again in Kumasi and south of Accra. Only here the clay is |
not red, but a light beige, and that is to remind me that this is the |
USSR and not Ghana or Dahomey. Of course, the faces are white. |
There are other differences that creep through also. The towns and |
the villages are really in very good repair and there is a powerful |
railroad running parallel to our road. Long, efficient looking trains |
and tanker cars and ten-car passenger trains pass by us, going |
through switch houses with blue and white ceramic tiles and |
painted roofs, all managed by women. Everything looks massive, |
bigger, in Russia. The roads are wider, the trains longer, the |
buildings bigger. The ceilings are higher. Everything seems to be on |
a larger scale. |
We stopped for a harvest festival lunch at a collective farm, |
complete with the prerequisite but very engaging cultural |
presentation, while vodka flowed. Then we all danced and sang |
together with the busloads of students who had come to help pick |
cotton. Later on along the roads there were literally hills of cotton |
being loaded onto trains. |
Each town that we pass through has a cafe, where the villagers |
can come and spend an evening or chat or talk or watch TV or listen |
to propaganda, who knows, but where they can meet. And all over, |
in between very old looking villages, there are also new four story |
buildings in progress, factories, new apartment houses. Trains full of |
building slabs and other kinds of materials, coal and rock and |
tractors pass by, even one with row after row after row of small |
automobiles. There are three different Russian automobiles. This is |
the cheapest, and most popular — hundreds and hundreds of cars |
stacked, all the same lemon color. Obviously, that month the factory |
was producing yellow. |
I watched all of this industry pass and it came through to me on |
that bus ride down to Samarkand that this land was not industrial so |
much as it was industrious. There was a flavor of people working |
hard and doing things and it was very attractive. On top of that, I |
learned that this area between Tashkent and Samarkand was once |
known as the “Hungry Desert” because although it was fertile, no |
rain ever fell and it was covered with a coat of salt. Through |
technology devised to lift the salt, and a great deal of human hands |
and engineering, this whole area has been made to bloom, and it |
really does bloom. It is being farmed, mostly with cotton. People |
live here and there are massive irrigation ditches and pipes that |
maintain trees where there are towns and collective farms. All |
through Uzbekistan the feeling of a desert having been reclaimed |
and bearing huge fruit is very constant. Later on, as we headed on |
south after the great feast, we stopped at an oasis, and I picked |
some desert flowers that were growing — small little scrub flowers |
that were growing in the sand. And just for so, I tasted one of them |
and as honeysuckle is sweet, so is this flower salt. It was as if the |
earth itself was still producing salt or still pouring salt into its |
products. |
There’s very beautiful marble throughout Uzbekistan. The stairs |
of the hotels and sometimes the streets have a beautiful pink and |
green marble. That was in Tashkent, which means “Stone City.” But |
on this ride from Tashkent to Samarkand I saw no stones or rocks of |
any kind near the road. I don’t know why, except that it is a |
reclaimed desert. The roads felt very good, and they were very |
broad because of course there was always heavy machinery and |
trucking traveling back and forth. |
We had another glowing welcome in Gulstan, which means the |
“Hungry Desert.” This is now the village of roses. We visited a |
collective farm, went into a house, saw the kindergarten. The |
woman’s house into which we went was very impressive, as I said to |
someone later at lunch who asked me what I thought. I said, “She |
lives better than I do,” and in some ways she did. The collective |
farm in Gulstan, called the Leningrad Collective, is one of the |
wealthiest collectives in the area. I will never know the name of the |
very kind young woman who opened her home to me, but I also will |
not forget her. She offered me the hospitality of her house, and even |