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Anyone buying this "dip" on jnug?

Bought in at 11.40 should I cut losses or double down.... Vote trump they said Gold will skyrocket they said lmaoooo!

I'm selling anything at +30% from now on. I bought at $11 and woke up to Trumpland with the sweetwest 2 day gainz of my life. Holding the bag today. If it dips further I'm checking into an assisted living facility

Damn closed at 9.10$ Inverse WSB always strikes 24/24 7/7. "if it dips more tomorrow sell and re-enter at lower price and hold that shit for the rest of your life" remember inverse wsb

wallstreetbets

JGYologainer

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DLun203

d9uv372

Brodin_25

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I would like to get landlords' opinions on Cozy.com

I have a new tenant moving in on Monday who would like to pay by ApplePay. I'm not an Apple guy and was going to suggest PayPal, but came across Cozy.com. Does anyone have experiences, positive or negative? Thanks for your time!

I let my tenants pay with Venmo. There are no fees and it's quicker than cozy. Plus most people already have venmo so it's not another account they need to set up.

I used cozy to manage rent in one townhouse between 4 doctorate students in one property; you might kick yourself waiting for rent to clear though, it waits until everything clears on their end, combines the funds, and then finally deposits it into your account. I required them to use direct deposit (this was back in 2015; I can't speak for right now). On my most recent rental, I only used Cozy for the credit check/background check since they pay by cash before the 1st each month. I couldn't have been more pleased. I would avoid Square/Paypal/etc since their support is so limited and there are often substantial fees.

RealEstate

tbscotty68

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KingCarnivore

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What happens to money market/bond funds in a market crash?

This is a hypothetical and more for my education. Let’s say I have my Emergency fund or some other savings in VBTLX for VMFXX (Vanguard total bond and money market) What is the likelihood that those funds lose significant value if we have a market crash? What exactly goes into those funds and how do they react when stocks go down?

There's a reason [Vanguard]( and all other brokerages switched from Prime Money Market to Federal Money Market.. the Money Market Reform that took effect in 2016. "The boards of directors of Vanguard's government funds have decided to impose neither [redemption] fees nor [liquidity] gates." This means VMFXX, backed by the US government, is still pretty darn safe and will keep its value at $1/share and won't stop you from selling. VBTLX on the other hand, will move with the safe bonds market in general. Bonds tend to be viewed as safer asset than stocks, so you probably know where money is going to flow during a stock market crash.

I've been investing for 25 years and haven't personally witnessed money market share price vary from $1 (none I've been in anyway). It's as safe as the underlying currency. Bonds historically moved inversely from equities. That relationship changed after 2008. That event was a near perfect meltdown. If you want to know how safe anything is, looking back on how it performed then will tell you a lot. In general it is still a safe bet that the longer the term, the more volatile a bond will be, up or down in relation to interest rates. I'm a pretty conservative person so have a generous E fund in MM, but I still have plenty of bonds. I held them though the last dip when rates increased and reinvested dividends and they're now back to all time highs.

personalfinance

notrewoh

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DeluxeXL

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ruler_gurl

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Did BoFa always charge $3 for outbound ACH transfers?

Just noticed this. All outbound ACH transfers to other banks come with a $3 charge. I feel that's pretty disgusting. Never seen a bank do this. Maybe I'm just out of the loop and this is "normal"? I typically log into the bank where I want to receive the money and "pull" the funds so maybe I just never did it this way and never noticed, but I'm looking forward to STOPPING all business with Bank of America soon because of stuff like this.

If you initiate the transfer from another bank, it is free. If you initiate it from BoA, it is a $3 fee. So if you control both accounts just do it from the other bank. And yes, they have always had this fee.

At least a couple of years, I would have to assume forever. BoA sucks, don't mess with them unless you have enough money through them to be a platinum honors member or whatever.

personalfinance

minomes

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egolifter

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cragfar

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Housing Costs: How does one put a value on privacy/quality of life?

GF and I have been renting an apartment (1x1) for a few years and since we live in SoCal, housing costs are absurd. Our lease ends in April and the market price for our rent has gone up if we choose to renew. We can't buy because quite frankly we can't afford to buy here and we don't know if this is where we want to settle down long-term. With the increased rent we'd be spending close to $1,200 each which is teetering on the edge of the "housing < 30% of your income" rule (it's a little under for me and a little over for her). We've done an exhaustive shop of just about every housing community and have found that there aren't really that many cheaper options unless 1.) we downsize to like a 500 square foot studio, which is too small for us and those still go for around $2,000/mo or 2.) we move 15-20 miles away, which easily adds an hour+ to our commutes. Option 3.) Get another roommate. Her brother has asked us if we'd be willing to rent a place with him. I ran the numbers for a 2x2 in our area and even if my GF and I take the master bedroom/garage spots and take on a greater portion of the rent, we'd save around $300/mo each on rent. I get along with him just fine, he's slept over our place on numerous occasions and is fairly clean (and would have his own bathroom anyway), is kind of a homebody, and the only issue really is that he snores and just losing our privacy in general. Anyone been in a similar situation (living with just your spouse and then having roommates again) and what factored into your decision making? I'm inclined to pull the trigger as an extra $300 in our pockets every month will help tremendously and allow us to save more for when we do buy somewhere, but part of me is too selfish and doesn't want to give up my privacy.

It's all personal choice. Personally I can't imagine having a roommate again now that my wife and I live alone in our house. Thankfully that isn't a need but if I had to come up with another $600 between myself and her I would look to eliminate eating out, reduce hobby spending, cut alcohol way down, and otherwise make the money up elsewhere. My sister stayed with us for 3 weeks a summer or 2 back and the small things like needing to wear pants everywhere and having someone in the washer when you need it or having a pan your roomie used be dirty when you want it is super irritating lol. That said I can see if you felt that it wouldn't be a bother that maybe it works out.

Your only other option, if you have done exhaustive research, is to move to an area where your income and housing costs re-align to your target or get a higher paying job where you are. Other than that, if you choose to live where you live, you are stuck. Socal is overpopulated, so housing costs are through the roof.

personalfinance

mkyend

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RandomizedRedditUser

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Personal advice needed on retirement

My husband (50 yr old) will retire soon with an annual pension of 40,000. I have a secure job with a guaranteed pension of 66,000 (when I retire st 60.) Currently I make 63000 a year. We still owe a bit on our mortgage at 800 per month. We also have two car payments at 900.00. All of this will be paid off in three years. We purchased a house that we are flipping. Have 55,000 invested. Will sell for at least 80000 by spring. When he retires, he has to move his 401K. He has close to 500,000 in there. I have 150000 in mine. Most of our cash flow went to some medical expenses and the flipping house. We also maxed out the 401k each year. My question is this...I know that if you pull money out of a 401k prior to age 59 1/2 you pay a penalty. Approx 40 percent. We have been given the opportunity to purchase real estate in March. This will be an apartment complex that we will split with our parents. We do not want to finance this The approx value of the property is 460,000. We will need to put up 150,000. The property will give us 4000 a month income. We need around 60,000 more to make this happen. Does it make sense to take 100,000 out of 401 k to invest in this? We will automatically have over 100,000 in equity at purchase. We will make 48,000 (minus rental charges, repairs, etc) in the first year to make it back. Is there ever a time that it is ok to cash out? We would still have 550000 in our funds plus pensions. We would also have the equity in our home and complex. Financing is an option, but our debt to income ratio will be close. Also, it is a bit more complicated when you see gping in with partners. Eventually, I will inherit the entire complex. (I will have to buy 1/2 of their share out.)

Cashing out 401k, paying 10% penalty and income taxes to buy this property would be insane. Finance it. The cost of interest on a $60k mortgage will be peanuts compared to the costs of cashing in the 401k early. Good luck.

How many units in the apartment complex, and is the $4k your share (1/3rd or 1/2) of the total net income? You pay a sizable penalty.. making most withdrawals a bad idea. The question you need to answer is this.. 100k in the 401k (if its in an index fund returns a value of about 7%.. now); If you withdraw the 100k to get a 60k balance on your 1/3rd or 1/2 of apartment complex will the net income of the complex be more than 7% of 100k ? If so, then yes otherwise no. Some questions you should know going into this deal: Are major repairs needed in the first 5 years? Such as a roof, foundation, or are several of the units needing a major overhaul? How long is the proposed buyout period for the remainder of the equity, and is the property expected to be profitable for all that time? As deals like these go, are your parents going to be passive investors meaning you and your husband are the property managers; If so, do you have a contract or other business vehicle (like an LLC for example, passive investors need the protection) planned? This sounds like a great deal, btw.. when parents help enable financial security is a rare gift. ps. This sounds like a cash purchase and I understand the reluctance of trying to get a business loan to cover the balance of the 60k. Those loans are nothing like residential loans for residential housing, which /r/personalfinance see's more of, and are usually more than unusually punishing. Avoiding the business loan with their insane pay off rates for very high interest is usually a great idea when you can.

personalfinance

retire1518

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mormengil

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Chisasyn

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$MJX Thoughts (Marijuana ETF)

Can't be the only one here thinking this could either be huge or bust. Marijuana is at the verge of nationwide legalization with so much potential upside and a newly discovered market for america. And now we have an ETF on the US stock exchange that captures that market. Are you in or out? Is this to the moon? Any input helps, thanks!

Im down 15% in it already, but not a lot of money, and I see a time in as little as 5-10 years where is is completely legal in the US

I've been in it for the last 3 weeks and went from being up 20% to now only 9%. generally speaking though, it does seem to be a nice investment especially if I do not have the time or knowledge to make the best purchases on individual weeed stocks. I'm also holding Aphria, maricann and aurora

stocks

skateboarder3021

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Boston_Red_Sox

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FaythDarkHeart

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Why is there an income limit on Roth IRA contributions if the backdoor Roth IRA method has been blessed by the IRS?

They're just creating extra paperwork and steps while not actually restricting anyone from contributing to a Roth IRA based on income. Are there other differences I'm not aware of? Or is this just an example of government bureaucracy inflicting needless work on people? EDIT: what's the rationale behind preventing high income earners from contributing to Roth IRAs? I'd understand (somewhat) if they were trying to shelter millions of dollars from taxes on the gains, but why not keep the $6,000 annual cap and remove the income limit altogether? What's the reasoning?

Congress makes the rules. The IRS can only operate within them. Someone asked the IRS if the backdoor works, the IRS looked at the law and said "Yes it does". Unless congress changes the law, it will remain open.

I think the rationale behind the income limits on regular contributions is to try to force high earners to place new money into non qualified, fully taxable investments should they choose to continue to invest at all. The result that the tax laws are going for is to generate the most tax revenue from all possible sources, and it does this by taxing higher earners at higher rates, placing income limits on contributions to qualified accounts, and trying to funnel that money into investments that will generate taxable dividend & interest payments as well as capital gains. Regarding backdoor Roth’s...you have to do a Roth conversion from a traditional IRA in order to fully execute a backdoor Roth contribution, right? Well, it would be foolish for them to disallow this because a Roth conversion typically generates tax revenue (or more accurately, it does not defer the income tax on these dollars).

personalfinance

MountainMantologist

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AlphaTangoFoxtrt

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How exactly are finance guys getting so rich off of stocks if it’s not a sustainable financial strategy to “pick stocks”?

Are these people just the lucky ones who managed to pick the right stock? What does the current literature say about financial asset picking vs passive investing?

Firstly, holding every single stock in the S&P (i.e. an ETF) delivers a 10% return yoy on average since 1980. So if you invested $1000 in 1980, you would have $45,000. This is called beta, and you don't need to be a financial expert to generate this. Secondly, theres a major survivorship bias, because you only see the successful people. If you organised a rock paper scissors tournament where two people faced off and only the winner advanced to the next round, then starting with 1024 people after 8 rounds you only have 4 people. These 4 people would have won every single round in the last 8 rounds, and they must necessarily exist. If you only observe these 4 people and they tell you all about their funky superstitions like maybe one of them only ever plays with his left hand, then you might think they've got some actual technique. But they don't. Finally, just because it's not a sustainable strategy for you doesn't mean it's unsustainable for other people. Genuine edge does exist, if you can find a reason for it. A great reason could be that you have data that no one else has because you're a specialist in a certain technology that no one knows about. Another great reason could be dislocation when a bond transitions from being investment grade to non investment grade, and investment grade investors have to sell it.

Most "finance guys" (and gals) are compensated regardless of an asset or portfolio's performance (at least until they're fired) - this is called a management or transaction fee, usually a percentage of the value of the underlying asset - and for many, like VCs, PE fund managers, etc, they also usually get a commission for the performance of the asset/fund - this is called carry. On top of this, the assets they're dealing with are often increasing in value over time (ie private and public stocks trend up) so both the management/transaction fees and the performance/carry fees are consistently growing. Lastly, they're hyper leveraged because they're investing other people's money, and there's little financial risk for them (relative to the upside) because it's not their money, rather their reputation is at risk, which takes years or decades to accurately evaluate. This is why it's also extremely competitive to be "a finance guy."

AskEconomics

Ask_me_who_ligma_is

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handsomeboh

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ohhmichael

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(US) I just got a felony, how useless is my degree now?

I'm 28 and I've been going for a degree in computer science. I recently was convicted of a felony. I've been saving as much money as I can but I was wondering should I even bother finishing school?

The bad news is a lot of good tech companies aren't going to take you with a felony, let alone a violent one. The good news is, computer sciences skills can lend themselves to self-employment and freelancing. You're not completely screwed in the employment department.

Shouldn't it be a private thing? If you had issues with the state I don't see why is that anybody else's business. Specially if you have paid for it already.

personalfinance

TheNewColor

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take_me_to_pnw

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parfamz

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Is buying neighboring lot a no-brainer?

My wife and I bought our first house on a 1 acre piece of property in October. The neighboring lot is a half-acre, completely wooded, and hasn't been touched in years. The owner died a few months ago. We now have an opportunity to buy the lot for pennies on the dollar. The plan would be to clear (or nearly clear) the lot to give us more yard and a view of the community lake. That would bring us to a total of 1.5 acres and the entire project can be done for around $1200. This is a no-brainer, right?? Looking for any kind of input or objection. Thanks!

$1,200! If you don't buy, I will! I've always dreamed of having a very small scale hog farm and this location sounds perfect. Of course, I'm teasing, but I'm sure you get the point. It is worth $1,200 just to be sure that nothing you don't want happens there. I'd cut as few trees as possible. Leaving it as wooded as you can, while still getting a view of the lake. Better to decide to cut more later, than to regret cutting down too much.

Taxes would be the one factor to check. We have a thing here where you can mark a lot as forest area which means you can't build anything on it but you also pay very little tax on it. If someone ever wants to build it on again or modify the lot such as clearing it, they would have to pay all the back taxes to changes its status again.

RealEstate

moneytrain92

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Buying a new car tomorrow, starting to get stressed out

I am a recent college graduate (3 weeks ago) buying a brand new car tomorrow. It hasn’t hit me yet but now that tomorrow is the day, I’m starting to get worried that I haven’t approached this the right way. I plan on buying a 2018 Honda Civic EX, and my uncle is putting down $5,000 for me as a graduation gift. I can accept the monthly payment of about $300, but don’t want to spend much more. When I originally went to the dealership, they tried to tell me that I would be paying “x” amount exactly each month, but they wouldn’t tell me the interest rate, even though that monthly number apparently included the interest. I found this odd. I’m going in the morning to a bank to get numbers before I go to the dealership after to close. 1) I have an account with suntrust, checking and savings, and no other account. Never had a credit card. My uncle has great credit and said he would co-sign to get a better rate. The dealership said the rate wouldn’t be different, but should I bring this up at the bank tomorrow? 2) How can I know how much I will spend on car insurance each month? Can I get an estimate online? 3) anything else I should know from anyone who is experienced at negotiating/buying new cars. I want to get the lowest possible price for the car. 4) Should I threaten to walk by going to another Honda dealer or a different company like Toyota? Thanks.

So this sub is full of "a purchased a car and the payment is ruining my life" stories. Take you time - look at bank and credit union loans. A guy who won't tell you the interest rate is not a guy you can trust. Look at your budget and make sure the car fits it. You haven't mentioned your income or expenses here. You don't have to do this tomorrow, you have time.

With no established credit the dealer will want to finance you at a higher rate,even with a co-signer, especially on a new vehicle. I’d suggest taking that 5k down and look at certified pre-owned vehicles with low mileage, If you keep up with your maintenance Hondas will last you a long time...And if they don’t know ask for someone who does because they should 100% be able to tell you the interest rate. You can definitely get insurance quotes online, or better yet call them an have them explain their rates and coverage options, see if you apply for incentives or discounts. As far as negotiation goes, never forget that you are in control. If something doesn’t feel right question it, make the salesperson explain it, ask about the 5 year or 50k mile drivetrain warranty, ask about the extended bumper to bumper coverage, their job is to get you to leave with a new car...They will pressure you into feeling like you want to get this done today but YOU DON’T! Let them give you their pitch and get a quote on paper, tell them you’ll consider it, and go to another dealer to see if they can do better. Shop around online before you go, get an idea of prices in your area and stay in your comfort zone until you’re ready to take that step.

personalfinance

mattbr26

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LushLaughter

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Inherited $20K. How do I make it grow?

Salutations PF, I (M/26), had a relative pass away and was left with a $25,000 inheritance. I immediately got out of credit card debt. I was originally in debt for close to $10,000 and it was about to roll into collections because I wasn't able to pay it. So I called them and talked them down to $5,000. So now I have $20K and am not sure how to make it make money for me. I'm currently finishing my BA at university. When I get out I will have about $14,000 in student debt. I'd like to make the money grow and pay off my student loans with my eventual job after school. Thoughts?

What are the interest rates on your loans? Any that are higher than about 5%, I would recommend paying off immediately. The surest way to make money grow is to stop debt from making it shrink.

See if your state sponsors a prepaid tuition plan, and if the school you're attending participates. There is also the federally sponsored 529 college savings plans. There's a bunch of qualifying details for both. Either way, you'd be smart to finish without student loan debt.

personalfinance

[deleted]

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[Request] What is/are the best ways to save/invest my money?

First year Master's student here. Thanks to my financial aid and TA-ing job, I think I'll be able to start saving money rather than barely scraping by. So, what is the smartest way to save money? If there's a better subreddit to post this question in, please let me know.

How much $$ are you talking here? Also, if you don't have an emergency fund, I'd go ahead and just sock it away in a savings account to serve as your EF.

betterment.com is working great for me. It is set up for people saving up money for a goal and everything you invest is free of transaction fees and automatically divests your money into ETFs. I think it costs 0.5% of your total investment per year. If you'd like i can send you an invite that will give us both some free money.

personalfinance

amon00

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brp

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PatrickMorris

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What can we learn from 2008 about how to react to a potential new recession?

So there's a lot of talk lately (especially today) of another recession lining up over indicators like Bank deregulation, more asset-backed securities issues, and rising oil prices. The general consensus seems to be that the very wealthy are able to ride out a recession and bounce back in a big way, becoming even more wealthy. Things like buying heavily all the way down etc. Meanwhile those hit hardest may be left scrambling for work or enough money to make ends meet without very significant sacrifices. I'm wondering if there is some good way to help insulate my household (not very wealthy) from the impacts of another potential "great" recession. Can reddit offer links to some resources (this has surely come up before)? Or provide some insight into what a household like mine can do? I have no immediate plans to take on new loans and I work in aerospace, which was relatively stable through the last recession. If things get Grapes-of-Wrath bad, I doubt there's much to be done, but what about another 2008? With the power of hindsight, what could/would you have done in 2005-2007 to mitigate the impact of the 2008-2009 recession?

Economists have predicted 12 of the last 2 recessions as they say. Be conscious of cash flow. If you make 1,000 and spend 1,000 but your bills don't align with when you get paid perfectly you'll always have a cash flow problem. What really affected the housing crisis wasn't just sub-prime, but people over leveraging by trying to flip houses. Too much debt/leverage. Have a good emergency fund. Be true to what your expenses actually look like and make sure to have 6-12 months to cover. Diversify your holdings, not just single stocks, markets, or asset classes (some bonds with stocks, not all US). Diversify your skill set so that if something negative happens to your job during the recession you have skills that could help bring in income. Try not to panic, if you're not in a lot of single stocks you shouldn't worry about any funds completely bankrupting, so you only have real losses if you sell. Try and buy here and there on the way down if you can, though the fear of job loss may have you saving your money. Learn some frugality. If your life needs to become simpler and cheaper you're far more prepared than someone who eats out all the time, has an expensive car, and constantly purchases expensive things. Not sure if these are the types of things you're looking for, or if your question was more pointed towards government policies, etc. towards recessions. Cheers!

in terms of what to do about retirement accounts, just ride it out. don't be a fool and sell when everything is dying off. the markets will come back over time and you'll be back in the saddle. beyond that, same stuff everybody else has said. get rid of debt, have a stocked e-fund, same old deal. really, tbh, there's nothing you can do to soften the blow of a big-ass recession (if it even happens). most you can do is stay the course and keep doing what you should be doing in regards to savings and paying things off.

personalfinance

phoen1x09

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BoobooKitters

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SandwichTaster

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What are some important financial things to do before the end of the year?

Things like contributing to Roth IRA, tax loss harvesting, or spending your HSA. Anything important I’m forgetting?

If you have automatic transfers of money to your Roth IRA and are able to max it out, you may need to update the transfer to account for the new $6k max! You might also need to update your 401k so you can take advantage of the new $19k limit there.

If you have 529s set up for your kids you should fund those as well. If you have investment properties you could consider spending on small improvements or maintenance to lower your income tax burden. Also consider paying the second half of your property taxes early on those properties if it makes sense for your financial situation.

personalfinance

darkally

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So a coworker told me to stop paying off my credit cards..

Said he learned from Dave Ramsey to just stop paying off debts on my credit cards, to go cash only and be done with it. While I don't exactly care to follow that advice (not that I have much CC debt to begin with), I'm curious what the ramifications are of this, if any.

I think they are misunderstanding, you still should pay off any debt you have on your CC's, but should stop using them (putting more debt onto them). Yes, credit cards can be used responsibly, but most people cannot use them responsibly, so it is good advice in general to simply not use them. But I do not believe that Dave Ramsey would ever tell someone to not pay off their debt.

Either your coworker wants to just simplify life (cash only = only having to pay for something once... instead of twice) Or he's suggesting that you avoid your current credit card debt by going "off the grid" and hoping that no one can track you??

personalfinance

OhSoMexicellent

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sipowits

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lilfunky1

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A tip for agents as a active buyer -

I am looking at beach houses and beach condos in a couple of cities right now. Often times I find myself on listing pages and I know agents are missing an opportunity to talk to me and potentially sell me a property because their listing are piles of POOP! Here is what drives me CRAZY. take it for what is worth - Advice that is free and on the internet. Pictures - no pictures or a handful of pictures tells me the property is trash. TAKE A LOT OF PICTURES AND POST THEM. Price - No price, I think you are a scam or a bait and switcher and you should feel bad for being lazy. Address - Tell me where the house is, no address you must be a scam artist. If you are worried people going around your back at least give a intersection. HOA fees (if APPLICABLE) - I do not want to call you to find out if the condo has a $200 or $2,000 per month HOA fee. just tell me in the listing. Then I will call if it hits my budget. Income - If the property has been used to generate a income for someone, put some numbers down (weeks rented last year, round total income for a year, etc. just give me something), don't say "great rental, people love it", when you give "potential" type statements I want to punch you, because every agent has "potential" listed 7 times in every one of their listings. Do they make you use "potential" in every listing or you get fired? Worse than a teenager with the word "like". Links - if you link to more information and the page makes me fill out a form before I see anything I back out. Last thing I want is to see a property that I do not like and then have you calling and emailing me about it. Then you add me to your monthly listing email list and all I wanted to see if the house had a garage and it didn't. Property Problems - be honest. If I drive 12 hours or spend $900 on airfare to look at some properties with you and you described them as "ideal" / "great" / "clean" / "upgraded"/ "ready to go" and we show up and it has issues - I hate you. You wasted my time and yours. If I come in knowing the carpet needs to be replaced or the kitchen was half ass upgraded I am ready for it and I look right past it. When I walk in and see a green fridge from the 70's that smells like a zoo and you told me the place is in tip top move in ready condition and recently upgraded I will never trust you again and I am done with you. Exclusive - I am willing to be exclusive with you after you show me properties and I get the feeling you know what I want. I WILL NOT sign anything when I just emailed you and asked "how big is the lot?" and respond with a exclusive request, you know where that can go. Social Media - last but not least. Do not send me a friend request on facebook after one communication about a property that is 600 + miles from my house. We are not friends, we are working on putting a business relationship together. I don't want my wife asking why all these 30 - 60 year old ladies are now my friends in other cities. What is the upside? really? LinkedIn - sure. Anything else, you are creeping me out unless we do become friends over the entire length of the deal.

I'll add one, don't Photoshop your listing photos. Went to one house, noticed something wasn't right with one of the pictures, didn't think anything of it. Upon arrival, massive water tower next to the house. Scumbag agent.

I'm assuming this list is related more towards the North American agents... If I was making a list about Australian agents I could write a bloody book! Dodgiest fuckers alive.

RealEstate

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drjohnzoidbergMd

t1_cicmo5z

cicmo5z

ieatafig

t1_cid84kq

cid84kq

My wife and I just completed a live in flip, how'd we do?

Younger ish couple, first time home owners. We bought in late Nov 2016, just sold (after dealing with picky/annoying buyers parents). We paid $149k plus $4k in sellers help for a new roof. We sold for $197k plus $6k sellers help (for what, idk... Just wanted to make a quick sale so it all happened over the course of a day). We used an FHA loan and had an interest rate of 3.1% at 30 years. Mortgage was $1100/month, including all taxes and insurance. Our total investment into the house (project wise) was about $12k, includes: tool purchases and materials and two sub contracted jobs (counters- 57sf granite for $1700 and concrete kitchen floors- grind and stain for $1800). We worked full time during our 2.5 year stay and we don't have to pay capital gains (I think?). We did a shit ton of work on the house, it was rough/meth lab esque when we bought it. Did we luck out or is this something we could do again or ? North East USA.

If the market moved up that much naturally on its own you didn't do great. But you learned a bunch, paid down some mortgage, lived somewhere for low cost. I'd say be careful on your next project that youre not over confident. Pay lower acquisition costs and, watch your rehab costs.

You guys sound really similar to our situation. I'm currently working on a live-in flip. Will be moving in at the end of this month. Installing floors this weekend. Paid $145k for a rental that badly needed upgrading. It was the cheapest house purchased in the neighborhood in over a year. Sellers paid $7k to re-side the whole house, $1200 for new garage door, $600 towards new appliances, and around $3k on repairing termite/foundation problems. We quote that $7k siding job with the assumption that every panel would need to be ripped out and replaced. Turned out to not be that bad, so we leveraged the rest of that money to replace all the gutters and re-size a window (the left one in the picture was too big to fit a peninsula under it so we had to go smaller). This is our first flip, and we projected our spend at $15-20k. That includes new appliances, AC/furnace, LVP flooring throughout house, two remodeled bathrooms, new kitchen cabinets, quartz countertop and backsplash. Of course, we're doing 95% of the work ourselves, which saves a huge amount of the cost. I'm still a bit nervous we over-improved, but I'll take the $ loss as a learning experience. We're planning on living in it for at least a year. We're almost certainly going to re-finance it and get our money out. Then we can use that cash to fund another flip. This area has a lot of duplexes that can be had for $100k, remodeled cheaply and then rented out.

realestateinvesting

YukonBrawler

t3_c0g3mt

Crossback2017

er4enh9

mwax321

er5ckqu

Continuing renting out house or sell?

I currently own a house that I rent out. I don't really make any money off of it but more just make enough to cover expenses and the mortgage. The house is starting to gain a hefty size amount of equity. At what point, if ever, should I sell? Should I just continue renting it out even after it is paid off? Or sell it and use that money for something different? I like my tenets and don't have issues with them and like giving them affordable rent in exchange for having a property that pays its own mortgage and expenses, but not enough for a profit. I am not planning on selling it right away, but figured this was a good place to ask since I am still an amateur in the investment game.

One option you could use - release some of the equity and purchase another investment property. Or if property isn't something you want to invest in perhaps some managed funds. It depends on your personal risk assessment.

I would say it depends greatly on the market in your area and where you are in life. If you are in Canada in the Toronto or Vancouver area, I believe that it is a clear sell as you'll get a pretty goofy ROI. If you find yourself in a different market like Detroit, you'll absolutely want to hold onto it. If you're close to retirement (<15 years) and you think that your housing market is going pretty well, you might be more likely to sell than if you were farther away (+15 years) and could weather another credit cycle. Best of luck with your decision.

personalfinance

QualifiedUser

t3_6nh3n8

Stud-Muffin69

dk9e3af

AssChest

dk9kngc

HELP Mother is asking me to pay for 15k in credit card debt. Need advice.

Background: My family has never been great with managing money, and has almost always been in debt. I've been called upon for help before and have always done it within reason, but this is the largest amount my mom has approached me about. Before anyone asks, she is a great mother. No drugs, gambling, addictions ect. that are the cause of money problems. This credit card came from trying to help my sister when she was trying to get an education, but eventually dropped out. Ultimately, my mom is asking me to either pay for the debt entirely and pay me back (I understand that this is extremely unlikely due to past experience) or transfer the balance to another credit card that will offer 0% APR for 12 months so she can start to pay for it. This more than likely will just delay the inevitable. I am 23 years old and am going to make between 110-130k pretax this year (commission based). No kids and single. I have about 45k in cash and 15k in a company 401(k). I've been saving to reach 60k in cash and was planning on investing the cash in real estate in the next 6 months to meet some personal goals. My mom has a part time job making $14 an hour and working between 15-20 hours a week. My sister who also lives at home with her daughter is jobless (FWIW she is the real problem here, but has been unwilling to contribute for years). My mom has a teaching degree but has had a hard time finding teaching jobs in our area for the past 2 years, however it's possible for her to get a teaching job in the next 6 months where she expects to make 50-60k per year. From what I see, there's three options here. Pay for the full amount under the condition that I create a budget with them both and will be actively involved in their finances until the debt is paid back. Roll the debt into another 0% APR for 12 months CC (cosigned with my mom) and give my mom time to get a better job. Tell them I can't help TL;DR Mom is asking me to pay for sisters "student loan" for a school she dropped out of. The card was 0% for the first year which is now over. Sister pressured mother into cosigning on the card. 15k in total debt @ 24% APR I have 45k in a savings account and make ~120k per year I'm looking for advice from someone who has been in a similar circumstance, or knew someone who was, and can offer some insight into what I should do or consider in this situation. Thank you for reading.

If you feel like it fits with your life and goals to gift your mother $15k (directly as a payment to the credit card account, of course, absolutely do not write her a check for the money) then do it, if not then don't. Do not expect that it will be repaid.

It's for you to decide. If I where you, I would help pay it out. You have great savings and are still young. If you continue saving as well as you have been so far, 15k will be a very small amount in your lifetime, for your mother that will be a huge change, especially at an APR that high.

personalfinance

throwaway961572

t3_7e5t5u

beholdmycape

dq2p4yp

klappyRocky556

dq3a5cg

Any fire nurses out there?

I just graduated and will be starting my career soon and just wondering if any nurses have a fire path?

The median personal income is [$30,240]( The median income for an RN is [$68,450]( [$110,910]( for an NP, and [$160,270]( for a CRNA. Suffice to say that there's a clear path to FI if you make more than double median income.

Your comment or post has been removed by a moderator from /r/financialindependence Maybe it was too much of a /r/personalfinance thread or maybe it wasn't specific enough, or maybe it's a frequently asked question that doesn't need it's own post. It would be better served in the Daily Discussion Thread. Post it there for some discussion. In general, we try to make sure that top-level posts in the subreddit have very concrete ties to Financial Independence or Retiring Early. If a post is only tangentially related, it belongs in the Daily Discussion thread.

financialindependence

iFeelaH8CrimeCominOn

t3_6gnqf1

mathgrethrow

diro7hi

bo_knows

dism167

Girlfriend's mother is about to lose her home, yet I am doing fine financially, what to do, if anything?

Background on gf's mother: my girlfriend's mother quit her job last August and hasn't found steady employment since then. Currently she is unemployed. We'll call her Judy. Judy owns a home, is around 55, has 10 dogs she fosters as part of a program to find permanent homes. The house is packed with dogs and people. When permanent homes are found for the dogs, Judy gets more dogs. She has an alcoholic boyfriend who lives there along with her nephew, who just started attending college. The nephew's mother, Judy's sister, also has a problem keeping a job. No one works in that household right now. My girlfriend has odd jobs / is a student, and sends money to her mom. I keep track of money she has borrowed from me to help her mom, currently it's $200. But now I am told her mom needs $2000 to keep her home as part of some "Save Your Home California" program. The thing is, her mom is not reliable, so this figure could change based on past experience. I've always assumed these programs are scams so banks can say they're trying to help homeowners while doing nothing to solve the problem. My background: I really don't want to give her mom any money. After losing everything financially a few years ago, I separated ties with the person who was a financial black hole, and I can hopefully retire early now. On one hand, I feel bad for her mother, on the other hand, I don't want history to repeat and have someone take from me everything I've worked hard at and never give back. I have loaned my brother money at 0% interest, but he has no problems finding a job and he pays me back, same thing with my parents who made smart decisions, are retired comfortably, and own assets. From a financial perspective, Judy's decisions, from how she has raised her daughter(not getting a driver's license), to hording things (dogs and things), to spending her retirement on treatment for a dying dog, not having a stable job, flying off the handle from time to time, etc., makes me reluctant to give her any more money. Note that Judy feels bad about this and how it could affect me. What are my options? (A) Loan her $2k, adding to the tab, Judy uses this program to somehow "save her home"? Not sure how this works, but I fear if I delve further into this and ask questions, I will be sucked into it and if I don't give her $2k, then when plan (B) happens, I'm the bad guy. (B) let her deal with it, she forecloses, lives on food stamps like she has done in the past when she raised her daughter, the people she supports will have to fend for themselves. tldr; girlfriend's mother is hitting rock bottom financially, what, if anything, should I do.

Option B - do not lend her the money. If you want to give it to her then fine but do not consider it a loan because you are never going to see the money. Your first line says a lot - "mother quit her job". Life is about choices. You cannot save people that do not want to be saved

Is this a serious question? House full of people who don't work. Quit job on purpose. Hoard pets. The mom is unreliable and can't be trusted. You don't even want to give her money. Where is the question? Don't give her money! I can already surmise the type of person she is if your description is accurate. If it is, $2,000 will only put off her problems for a short while, it won't fix anything.

personalfinance

throwawayXYZ909090

t3_3184ge

brelausto

t1_cpz6muy

cpz6muy

learn2pro

t1_cq01v6h

cq01v6h

Should I purchase a home now with 10% down or keep renting until I can save up 20% down?

Wanting to buy a home now, looking at around 250k (average price of condos in our city) . Not sure I'd be able to come up with 50k by time we need to buy. Would it be wiser to rent for another year (rent is $1700 per month, mortgage would be the same with 20% down) and waste another 20k toward nothing or just deal with buying the private mortage insurance (as needed for all downpayments less than 20%) for $90 per month and get in on the market now with a 10% down payment? Words appreciated reddit.

It depends where you live, what the market is like there, and what future growth expectations are like. Renting is a good idea if you're living in a slow recovering market, that doesn't look promising. Whereas if you live in a city like Austin where inventory is at low levels, and the population is growing rapidly... it could be a good idea to just pay the PMI.

First off, you should confirm that you've got some prerequisites first Plan to stay in the house for 5 years or more A well funded emergency fund (about 6 months of expenses) after you fully fund your mortgage. Expected stability in your income As to your question, I'd argue Yes, you should buy. Why? Interest rates are very, very low right now. Buying now give you an opportunity to lock that in. We've already had our housing crash, so prices are probably reasonable in your area (or unlikely to decline a lot). Couple of tips: try to avoid buying more house than you need try to finance a 15 year mortgage; interest savings are substantial on the back end.

investing

firstxbuyer

t3_1ao30t

aydoaris

t1_c8z5wrk

c8z5wrk

freddo411

t1_c8zd6lh

c8zd6lh

Ideal way of contributing to HSA

Hi PF, This is my first time signing up for a high deductible plan from my employer and the plan is a family plan. Because of this, I'm eligible for an HSA to which my employer also contributes. With the family limit for contributions being $6900, which also makes it ideal as a result of the out-of-pocket maximum being just slightly under it, I was planning to contribute such that I hit $6900 at the end of the year and then stop contributions to the HSA. I was then planning on using those contributions towards other goals like buying a house or other short term goals. However, I've been reading a few posts related to HSA's and the general consensus has been to max this every year and not to reimburse it right away. I can understand that these contributions are tax-free, but if I can only use them towards medical expenses, wouldn't it be better in my case to just have enough to meet the out-of-pocket expenses and then use the money towards something else without them being tied down? I guess I'm just looking for ideas....

The cash in an HSA can be invested and grow tax-free. Many people use their HSA as a supplemental retirement account. They invest it and allow it to grow, in order to cover increased medical expenses once they are older. Also, once you are 65 you can withdraw from the account for any reason penalty-free. You'll just pay tax on the earnings. Therefore, even if you don't use it all for medical expenses, you can use the funds for anything once you retire.

To go along with what others have said, my preference is to concentrate on maxing out my HSA after I've contributed enough to the 401k to receive all company matching. Once you've invested that money, it grows just like any other investment. HSA has more tax advantages than any other retirement account and, if you wanted, you could treat it like a 401k once you hit 65 so you're not committed to using it for health expenses long-term. That being said, if you have other, higher priority expenses coming soon that you need to save money for, retirement savings will have to take a back seat. Just make sure you continue to max out your employer's contribution, whether it's through matching or health tasks. As for paying out of pocket for health expenses, saving the receipts and getting reimbursed much later, that's a great idea on paper but not always practical. The idea is that, if you needed the money 6 months later, you could get reimbursed right then and still have had 6 extra months of free investment growth. I plan to "try" doing that for big expenses but I'll need to evaluate each circumstance individually to determine if I can safely pay out-of-pocket.

personalfinance

medadvice__throwaway

t3_9puiza

TheUndeadInsanity

e84cher

Mekias

e84e364

Is it unhealthy to not want to ever own a house?

I have no desire at all to have a house. I hate gardening, painting and repairs. I like the idea of being able to just move when I want or if the house starts looking old or begins to host insects. Can I just not own a house / apartment ever? Or is that like throwing away money perpetually and I must own for when I ultimately retire? Do stock ETFs appreciate comparable to real estate? Why not just continue investing in things other than real estate? Or should I at least buy an apartment? For context I'm married F25. We don't want children. I have 35K in liquid savings/investments and 26K in 401k. My husband has savings that his parents set up for him + his own, so he can match whatever I put in. Our household income is 200K and we pay $3200 a month rent. We love this place. It's like a hotel: the amenities, doorman, gym, washer, drier, dishwasher, swimming pools, sauna, basketball courts, book clubs... Why would I leave this to own my own property and then have to look for gym, pool, etc.? I also like free HVAC repairmen being available and not having to fix stuff. I max out my 401k and also save $800 month. Major expenses: I spend 3K on gifts and 7K on travel annually. I expect a bonus of about 35K every February for the next 3 years and double that once I get promoted. Can I just rent my entire life or is this absurd? All my coworkers always talk about saving for real estate, car, etc., but I don't want to own apartment & car because you have to maintain both of these yourself. I like walking and using public transport when needed. Edit: thanks for advice! I think I've decided what to do. I want to be an almost lifetime renter (and saver!) until maybe 60 and then just buy a small house or apartment in a cheap state with cash when it's time to retire. EDIT 2: Actually no, this is dumb. If I have enough to buy in cash, then why not just keep paying rent. Hmm.. EDIT 3: My apartment is rent-stabilized: it can go up by no more than 4% a year. My credit score is 775.

Personal finance is PERSONAL. You do what you can and prepare as best you can so you can live the life you want. You do you. It may not be the financial plan for someone else but it might be perfect for you.

The math is as long as you offset what you would save by renting by investing that money and not just spending it on lavish things then you can potentially make more money on investments than opening a home and that also depends on where you live because some housing markets just push upwards others get stagnant and you can make more investing the money than paying a bank a 4% rate over 30yrs hoping your house value more than doubles

personalfinance

brobronn17

t3_c1vwtq

WTDFROYSM

erg0w9n

ouikikazz

ergy8tc

No More Stocks For Me. ETF Focused Now

I've lost so much on picking individual stocks over the past 4 years. I want to move some money into ETFs and am wondering if the following would be wise: I have \~$50k cash. Ally: $200 bonus for $25k deposit ETrade: $200 bonus for $25k deposit Should I open an account with Ally and another account with ETrade? The idea would be to deposit 25k into each, buy ETFs, and thus collect $400 bonus. Questions I currently have my Roth IRA with Vanguard. Should I instead just buy Vanguard ETFs? Are there any downsides to buying ETFs on Ally or ETrade? Any ETF suggestions? The only one I'm aware of that may be good are Vanguard's Admiral shares

1) Just curious, what individual stocks were you buying? The market did pretty well over the last 4 years. 2) Vanguard Admiral Shares is a class of shares, not a fund. 3) if you want Vanguard funds, I'd suggest opening an account with them or elsewhere provided you can buy and sell Vanguard funds comission free. 4) Split your money into total us, foreign and bond market funds. The vanguard etfs for this are VTI, VXUS and BND. You could also do the mutual fund equivalent or similar funds offered by other quality brokers (Schwab, Fidelity etc.))

Take a look at M1 Finance. They do ETFs and fractional shares. I have vanguard funds (VOO, VO, VB, VEA, VWO) but also QQQ, FDN, and EMQQ for tech tilts). There’s no extra cost, trading is free, and the only thing you get charged for is the normal fund fees you would find everywhere else.

personalfinance

UsingThisInTheOffice

t3_bppe7p

FIinvestor

enw2h1o

throwitup1124

enwm27z

How much I'm saving from paying early each month?

Hi, I know in my case it won't be much, I got a house at the bottom of the market at a good rate and on a 15yr, but out of curiosity and future reference how would I go about calculating how much I'll have saved or am saving. I'm currently paying my mortgage early each month (I pay it 1 month ahead, eg the payment due on April 1st I pay on March 1st). My current lender allows paying up to 2 months early TL;Dr: How to do calculate my savings by paying my mortgage early each month?

I doubt you save anything but a couple dollars. Paying extra will save you money but paying the normal payment a month early will not make much of a difference.

Depending on how its structured, you may not be saving anything, you're simply paying early. Many times if you pay early, they hold the money, and make the payment on time. (Depends on the bank). To actually reduce your total interest paid, you'd need to make a payment on the principle, in addition to your monthly payment.

RealEstate

Tdawg90

t3_63ezs6

phiber232

dftm8vi

drnick5

dful47l

I'm stuck in a job I hate and makes me depressed...

Hey everyone! I don't post much at all but I've been reading people's posts in this and everyone gives such great advice so I thought I'd ask for advice. The title pretty much explains my situation, I'm stuck in a dead end job which pays more than most companies in the area I live in. Things weren't always so bad at this company and I used to be happy here but over time it's gotten worse and worse to the point that I get depressed daily over having to go to work. I work too many hours, with horrible shifts and shift changes and piece of shit colleagues. My dream job is to be a full time twitch streamer and I work hard towards that but in the mean time I often feel like I can't keep going with anything anymore because my job just makes me so God damn depressed. The problem is that I can't get any other job because everything in the area I live in doesn't pay even close to the amount that I need to even pay my bills. My daughter goes to school here and my wife is working here and doing evening school so we are stuck here for another 3 years at the least. I've tried looking for remote work that I could do from home but there is nothing which pays good money when it comes to that... does anyone have any advice as to what I could possibly do? Sorry about the rant...

The problem is that I can't get any other job because everything in the area I live in doesn't pay even close to the amount that I need to even pay my bills. Here's your problem. You need to reduce your bills, consider moving, or suck it up at your shitty job. Start with the first because it is least disruptive. I would strongly re-evaluate every expense you deem is "necessary" and look long and hard at cutting back. If you post your budget based on your spending over the past year, along with what it would need to be reduced by for you to switch jobs, I bet some smart folks on this sub could help you. My daughter goes to school here and my wife is working here and doing evening school so we are stuck here for another 3 years at the least. Why is that? Adults and children transfer schools all the time? My dream job is to be a full time twitch streamer You also should probably assess some more realistic options for alternate work. Something maybe you aren't totally jazzed about, but that you can do day-in and day-out and isn't sucking the soul out of you. I realize it is not easy to change careers, but there are much more pragmatic goals than being a full-time twitcher. Finally, I wanted to say that I've 100% been in your position. I took a different job with a substantial pay cut (which required moving to a different state) and I am so, so much happier and healthier all around. I would strongly encourage you to do everything you can to get out of this job. You really don't want to spend 50%+ of your waking hours working and have it just beat you down every single day.

Really think about whether or not the job is the source of your feelings. If there is underlying depression or general unhappiness you could be blaming something on this specific job that would be true about any job. A new job might have a honeymoon phase and when it ends you would be feeling the same way and making less money which would be worse not better.

personalfinance

Firiplays

t3_8nt9j7

chompz

dzy69sy

frzn_dad

dzydqai

Already have an emergency fund that will get me through six months.. does it also make sense to keep some of that as cash at home?

Not sure if it's too paranoid or otherwise irresponsible, but my logic is if something "real bad" happens on a wider scale, I won't be able to get cash out of an ATM and a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush.

Keeping a few hundred bucks at home isn’t a bad idea. Keeping thousands at home probably is. I usually keep about $200 locked somewhere in the house and $50-100 on my person ($200-300 when traveling out of state and more when international). With that said, 99% of my spending is not in cash, so I rarely touch it.

How much cash do you really need? You can buy almost everything with a card. If the Internet or something goes down and cards no longer work, most businesses probably won't be able to buy stuff either. A piggy bank for emergencies is fine, but you shouldn't hoard more than what you need to pay your bills. Put the rest to work earning interest.

personalfinance

leaves2235

t3_9jetvi

Random5483

e6qtd3o

monkChuck105

e6qyar4

I might be dead before 59.5... What's the best Investment strategy?

I am 24 years old, no debt, Maximum matched contribution into my Roth 401k, emergency fund established, blah blah blah. Chronic heart issues, have had 2 heart surgeries already, likely going to need a 3rd in the future. If I make it past 60 I'll consider that a win. That being said... I'd like to use my money while I can. What's a good investment strategy?

I'd like to use my money while I can. What's a good investment strategy? In your condition, you'll need to work as long as you can within reason and save and invest like you would if you didn't have any health issues. Make sure that if you have dependents, you have term life insurance. Continue to work like normal, save, and invest accordingly (401(k), IRAs, taxable accounts). If you happen to die before 59.5, then your spouse and/or next of kin will inherit you wealth, minus any debts in your name. If you live past 59.5, then it's up to your future situation to determine whether or not you would be financially-able to retire and live off your passive income. Overall, you can still enjoy your life. You just need to budget for the fun stuff as you would with bills and other life expenses. That being said, don't bet on dying early - because the worse thing that can happen to you is living well into your 70s/80s/90s and not having a penny saved.

Screw it man, just go out and live your life! Take a risk, start a business or something. If you fail, so what? Or go Travel take all your PTO for what its worth if you keep working. I would hate to look back when I am 59.5 knowing I am going to die soon and realize I didn't do the things I really wanted to do.

personalfinance

cab354

t3_27enes

adle1984

t1_ci02eyj

ci02eyj

motown88

t1_ci0njb8

ci0njb8

Still owe on car but need something different. How does this work?

I made a mistake a long time ago buying this car. It's really nice but not exactly what I need. I stupidly agreed to a extremely high interest rate of 28% because I had non-existent credit. The car was sold to me at 14,000 my old broken (cracked block) car was traded in for 2,500 putting me at 11,500 to finance. A year later and I've only paid off 1,500 of the principle putting me at about $10,000. I now have a 4.25% rate and the principle is coming down slowly. Now this car is only worth about $9000-$10,000 if I private sell it and $6,000-$7,000 trade-in value. What if I trade it in? How does that work at a dealership? I know that if I private sell it, Me and the buyer will have to goto the bank its financed from. I understand that part. but lets say I want to trade my car for this other car that is $22k. The dealership is giving me a trade-in value of my car of $7k. So they take 22k-7k=15k. But then I still owe 10k so they take that and add it to the 15k and finance it all together as $25k?

If I'm not mistaken if you owe $10,000 and if they give you $6,000 on the trade in, they will add 4,000 to the price of the vehicle you want, so $22,000 + $4,000 = $26,000 financed. So you'll immediately owe $26,000 on a car that probably has a trade in value of $16-$18,000 (Also a high interest rate because you have no down payment also you're upside down). By doing this your signing up to lose $8,000 essentially. Plus interest over time. Your best bet is to keep your car or sell it to a private party for pay off and start over on a car that fits your needs at a reasonable price.

What exactly is wrong with your car? Do you just want a nicer shiny? Yeah, the 28% rate was atrocious, but if it's now down to 4.25%, that's pretty reasonable. The way amortization schedules work is that you end up with a higher portion of your payment going towards interest early in your loan, with it gradually changing over the course of the loan so that you're paying almost purely principle near the end of the loan. That's why it's really easy to become "upside down" in your car loan early on, where you owe more on it than the car is worth (mainly because the difference between "new" and "used," literally driving it off the lot, is a few thousand dollars). If you go with this plan, you're basically going to be adding the remainder of your loan after trade in onto the cost of your new vehicle, and refinancing. On top of that, the dealership is always going to lowball you on trade in value, because they have to invest in the car to make it ready to sell, and also because they are experts at using your emotions against you to squeeze as many dollars out of you as possible. If your current car isn't a piece of crap, then I'd say keep it.

personalfinance

Cthulhu_is_Love

t3_50t7to

CraigGoforth

d76qnph

Tyrilean

d76qgnu

Hospital charged me for an ER visit even though they provided no services?

I was experiencing uncontrollable agitation on the 1st, so I decided I should go see a psychiatrist asap. Looked around, everyone said I should go to the ER, so I did. So the ER took me in, took my blood pressure, etc. and told me to wait. Well after a bit of waiting they said they didn't have any psychiatrists available, and just sent me on my way. Cut to a few weeks later and I get a bill saying I owe $407 minus 122.10 on a contractual adjustment leaving me with a $284.90 bill for basically taking up space for a few minutes. Is this normal?

Hospital charged me for an ER visit even though they provided no services? So the ER took me in, took my blood pressure, etc. and told me to wait. "taking your blood pressure etc." are actually services. You were triaged(?) by a nurse.

I went to the ER with sharp pains in my brain. I thought I was dying or having an aneurysm. It lasted 2 hours and after the first I decided it wasn't going to pass. I went in the Emergency room and they sat my on a table. She was coming to check my vitals and I heard a psssssssssss in my nose. All the pain went away. It was just extreme sinus pressure. We were camping and a front had moved in. I woke up with the pain. I was charged 300 dollars and they literally didn't even touch me.

personalfinance

Hnak_Hill

t3_6bhs1f

lilfunky1

dhmpaks

reddituser1323

dhn7ldc

What Real Estate related shows do you watch?

Currently into Flip or Flop. The numbers seem to be realistic when it comes to sales costs, rehab, etc. I also like watching Flipping Vegas. You won't learn anything from that show. It's just for entertainment purposes. Also watch Millionaire Los Angeles. I like looking at all the nice houses.

My 1 never miss an episode is HGTV/DIY's Income Property. Then HGTV's Vacation Home for Free because I live and work in a coastal area so always nice to see how little tweaks here and there can make a vacation rental more desirable. I cannot watch Property Virgins or House Hunters because I find myself talking back to the tv whenever those entitled twits think they can find the home of their dreams for $150K. Or can't possibly live in the house because appliance colors don't match, etc. I'll watch House Hunters International when there is an interesting location, New Dehli or Prague for example, but am so over those Australia and Belize/Costa Rica episodes. I watched a few Flip or Flop shows but, like Property Brothers, the style of houses they renovate are not all that common in my market so they are less interesting to me. And I watch Island Hunters because hey. a girl can dream.

This Old House - Awesome and always has been. Renovation Realities - Sometimes things don't go according to plan! Holmes on Homes - He totally overdoes everything, and I like that. House Hunters (and HH International) - So fake, but such a guilty pleasure.

RealEstate

HnB_01

t3_3hzidy

letrinka

cubyg40

my_cat_joe

cucgrru

Lesson in leaving it to the professionals

My cousin was getting his roof redone and was told he could save 500$ by doing the flashing tear down him self. Well he fell from the 3rd floor balcony and died this morning. Over trying to save 500$. What's your being cheap bite you in the ass story?

Oh fuck that's terrible. I started painting the exterior of my 3-story and I only made it to the top of the second story as I realized I did not want to fall. I now have a 2/3 painted house.

GD, I'm sorry to hear that... Early this morning a good friend of mine called. We laid to rest his father last Friday. Well, he was asking if my Explorer was still for sale because on his way to work he'd just totalled his late father's truck which was not fully insured...

realestateinvesting

philmtl

t3_dge08z

Crossback2017

f3axv75

Bobarhino

f3dgzc0

Offer accepted. I was arranging my own attorney and inspector when the realtor tells me that he's already contracted those services and they are listed on the transaction. Says I asked him to refer me to an attorney.

Granted, I did say if he has a referral to send him my way. Not contract services without my permission. He says that if I'm going to use my own guys, let him know today so he can make sure his guys haven't started any work? So far the realtor has been decent, not that I've had much experience with realtors. He's showed us homes, and this one we're contracting for was in a multi-offer and we bid an extra 9K above asking to have our offer accepted. This thing with the attorney and inspector having already been contracted raises a red flag for me. Is it warranted?

Not necessarily. Some agents are just in the habit of using the ones they are most familiar with because a good many people don't know/don't care and assume that's something the agent will provide.

Another thing to consider is that the realtor already has relationships with these people. They understand the process and are motivated to meet deadlines and provide competitive rates because the realtor is a good source of business. On the other hand, you may not get the same level of service or fee break if you hire someone on your own as a one-time customer. If you are truly concerned about it, ask the realtor to provide you with a list of 3 names he/she recommends for each and select one based on your own research.

RealEstate

Whatyoushouldknow

t3_24dded

myspiritanimalisme

t1_ch60i1j

ch60i1j

cb13

t1_ch63tyx

ch63tyx

Using unusual data sources like Google Trends and Wikipedia to predict market movements

The stock price is the result of the trading decisions of many individuals. What if, instead of waiting for a decision, you had a way to see decision making steps that precede execution? Searches on Google Trends and pageviews on Wikipedia precede actual decisions. This blog posts explores some theory and results. [What Can Cognitive Science Teach Us About Stock Prices?] (

So my understanding is there are funds that have been doing this for quite some time. It would be hard to get at the state of the art as I'm sure this is highly proprietary information. You could go down this road and try and develop an algo and see what kind of profits it eeks out. Just be warned, this is definitely not a new idea and has been around for awhile. Heck, people have been trading based on word hits in twitter for at least half a decade.

if you ever watch "ghost in the shell" there is actually an ep based off this idea . The idea works very well but remember to let the computer gather the data and then decide weather to trade (auto trading = bad)

investing

dunster

t3_1h6ks4

TDual

t1_carc9rz

carc9rz

apez1267

t1_carjcl7

carjcl7

Is the Fidelity Growth Commingled Pool a good fund for a 401k? 26 yo

Link: ER: 0.44% I'm skeptical of the 'commingled pool' title and it not having a ticker, but it's bested the index since its inception and its manager is the famously well-performing Steven Wymer of FDGRX fame. This seems to be FDGRX lite? As of last paycheck I updated my 401k investments to be: 30% FXSIX (SP500 index fund) 60% Fid Growth Co Pool and 10% FNSDX (2055 target date fund. About me: 26/M, 72k income, 12% 401k contribution + 6% employer match.

I just learned about commingled funds recently from another post on here. They aren't offered to individual investors, so people aren't always aware of them. Basically they offer lower costs by blending different accounts. [Here's a good description on them.]( Basically it's nothing shady, but as the article notes, there's no prospectus or anything for you to really look at, but they do have the info in the Commentary tab. It's an aggressive growth model. FWIW, I would just move the 10% FNSDX into FXSIX.

Personally a big fan of target date funds as they automatically rebalance to keep you diversified. With the market over the past year, a lot of people are most likely underweight as a percentage in stability funds. Nothing wrong with comingled. Personally I say balance 90% and play with 10%(crypto, single stocks, vcs)

personalfinance

cellcultured

t3_8heets

andthenisawtheblood

dyj6nzp

Travelsman

dyje0e3

US stocks vs international developed vs emerging markets long term

I've been thinking about this for about a week now. Up until today my portfolio in percents was 53/37/10 US stock/international/bonds. I just don't have any faith in international markets over the next 10 years or so. Almost every concerning trend I see in US markets is even worse in Europe. Sure China might gain on the US but other than that I don't see how international stocks will outperform US. I changed my allocation to 60/30/10. What does everyone else think about US vs international markets over there next decade or two?

US S&P megacorps have tended to outperform in the contemporary memory, due to favorable regulatory conditions, cheap money and relatively stable consumer sector. They have also seen a significant PE runup which requires them to outperform to justify the high prices they command. I would not be surprised if this outperformance trend continued, but I diversify to include foreign stocks because none of us have a crystal ball with certainty of what will happen. events like wuhan coronavirus can impact businesses in ways no one would have anticipated 3 months earlier. Economic miracles and disasters can come out of the woodwork.

The expected value and implied risk premium for EM is greater than US on a forward looking basis. Recency bias is hard to overcome. Regardless home country bias seems not uncommon due to currency hedging being more of an issue.

investing

ninjajaguar

t3_f1hwdm

TheEverHumbled

fh6f3fa

SD-Analyst

fh710ig

Would opening a cash back card for a engagement ring purchase be wise in my scenario?

Hello all, first post here, hopefully I format this correctly. I'm a twenty-something-year-old guy who is preparing to propose to his amazing girlfriend in the near future. She is pretty against materialism and doesn't like the diamond industry, so she wants a very basic gemstone ring which costs around $500 + tax. A few years ago I opened my first credit card with Amazons prime card to get $75 off a purchase. I have really enjoyed the cashback card and essentially only use it as a debit card, If I don't have the money to immediately pay it off, I don't put stuff on it. Over the years Ive earned a few hundred cashback and have built my credit score to around 740! So my question is this. Chase Freedom has an offer where if you open a new line of credit and spend $500 in the first three months, you get $200 cashback. I am thinking of opening another credit card and putting the ring on and getting the $200 back. However, I am wondering if it would be wise at my age to open a second credit card. I know opening new lines of credit will dip your score down (tho I do not know by how many points). I dont think I will need credit for a few years as both of us have relatively reliable cars, with less than 100K miles, and less than 10 years old. Further, we dont plan on buying a home anytime soon. So I guess what I am asking is your opinion on if you think hurting my credit score for a few years is worth $200. My financial situation, Im finishing my masters this year and should be landing a job that starts around 50k next june or so. I have always worked odd jobs through school and have most of my schooling paid off, and have over 10,000 in savings. &x200B any advice from you guys will be appreciated!

The best time to open a cc is when you have a big purchase and so you can take advantage of the bonus for money you’ve already allotted to spend anyways. Just make sure you have the cash to pay it off in full so you don’t carry a balance. Two credit cards is not bad at all and the freedom is a decent one for earning cash back.

You can also get 0% interest cards for a certain number of months. I put a large purchase on a 15 month 0% and am paying it off slower rather than taking out a personal loan.

personalfinance

osaout

t3_dugvjl

Greenappleflavor

f75r7xv

solarsuplex

f77khnt

Seller will only sign contract if it's contingent on them buying a new place.

Wife and I are buying our first house. We put an offer in on a house we like and the seller countered with a reasonable sales price but they want to make it contingent on them finding a new home in next 30 days. Our realtor said no way we should accept that because it lets them back out of contract at anytime. We agree. We countered with giving them a longer settlement (60 days). Their realtor said they won't respond to any offer that doesn't have the contingency. We are offering to buy it and let them rent it back. But, their realtor is very new so our realtor isn't sure if she will be able to understand that and effectively communicate it to the sellers. What do you think we should do? Just walk away? Anyone know of any other creative solutions? Thanks.

How long have you been looking? How many boxes does this house tick, for you, on your wish list? How hot is your market? Is it a buyer's market or seller's market? Even the rent back is a risk, I don't know that I'd agree to that either because then you could get into a bunch of extensions and possibly have to evict them (worst case, of course). They listed their house for sale, but, they don't REALLY want to sell it or they would accept your offer. They only want to sell if it's super convenient for them. They seemingly don't want to consider a short-term rental while they house shop, they don't want to agree to a reasonably long closing (60 days is generous, IMO). They want this to be really easy for them, at your expense. I am not sure this is their agent's fault, but, either way, not much you can do except let them know what you will accept and what you won't, depending on how badly you want the house. But it is kind of a bad sign, IMO. Are they going to be realistic when dealing with inspection issues or repairs, or even to abiding by the contract they signed? I'm not sure I'd want to deal with them. But it depends on how many hoops you have already had to jump through to find a house. Good luck.

I think rentbacks are a fine idea as long as you have the terms (timelines, consequences) very clearly laid out at the start. Renters can give you a lot of grief but they may have no room to if you make the contract such that they can't pull a lot of BS. I don't get why your realtor doesn't want to discuss it, can't she explain how the rentback works, realtor to realtor? The sellers clearly can't juggle owning 2 houses at once and the rentback would solve a lot of this, give them money from the sale to buy the next one and they don't have to rent elsewhere and move, just rent their own house.

RealEstate

I_Need_Sources

t3_3tt9k1

wamazing

cx8zy4z

junegloom

cx98go6

Who did not sell during the Great Recession?

I'm interested to know because most of the people I know tragically lost their nerve and sold at exactly the wrong time. Is fear stronger than greed when it comes to the behavior of investors?

I'd have to go back and look to know what kind of money we're talking about, but I know I was down 60% at the low point. I think I went from around $500,000 to $200,000; was early 40's at the time. Never sold, but I rebalanced at some point when it was low (probably not the dead bottom) to move out of international and into US; basically figuring that the USA was on sale. Even though I had lived through the dotcom crash, I didn't really participate in it in any meaningful way. So by the time I got around to think that I should maybe sell, it was already down so much that it was kind of like "what's the point"? I also got somewhat lucky because days that I'd thinking about selling a bunch, the market would absolutely get trashed (kind of like Monday this week). So even if I put some mutual fund sell orders in on my mutual funds in the early afternoon, the damn market would drop by 4+% and I was back to "well shit, I can't sell now because I'm going to hit the bottom", and I'd cancel the orders before the close. At some point, I just stopped even looking. Once it got below 10,000 (which was "only" a 30% drop from the highs), it really felt like it wasn't real anymore. It was just people panicking at that point and feeling like the panic would leave the market any day and we'd return to "more appropriate" levels. Of course, at 10,000 we were barely halfway through the fall to 6600 that came 6 months later (and 6 months after that we were back to 10,000). People talk about irrational exuberance during a bull market, but there is the same irrationality in the form of panic in a bear market. The fall to 10,000 seemed concerning because Japan had just gone through the lost decade and it felt like it could be 10 years before we got back to where we were in 2007 (and it did take over 5 years). But the fall after that just felt irrational, and therefore less concerning. It just seemed that it had to come back quickly because there was no reason for it to drop that far. I was also a strong believer in the bank & auto bailout, along with the stimulus that GW Bush started and Obama finished. So once it was clear that Bush was going to get that through, I had some sense of relief. When Obama continued those policies - virtually unchanged - I had high confidence that we were out of the woods. It's easy to look back and think "damn... sell in May and go away; do that in 2007 and then buy back in 2 years later and you'd be so rich". But for starters, you really can't time the market so don't start trying to convince yourself that you can. And second, if I had sold in 2007 when the DOW was at 14,000, I'd have bought back in when it dropped to 12,500 or 13,000... the idea of holding out until we were below 7,000 would have gotten you laughed at.

I just about sold in 2007 at my stock's peak, but got busy and didn't want to deal with the tax reporting. 2008 happened and I held through the recovery and sold later for a small gain. I fear selling in a downturn more than losing paper value of stocks, so if my stocks drop below the price I bought them for, I will panic hold instead of panic sell. The opposite is true if my stock beats my estimates, I panic sell wanting to lock on gains instead of greedily hold. I guess that's just my flavor of loss aversion.

investing

Henry_Doggerel

t3_7vs2zi

BlockNotDo

dtuqpam

one_is_the_loneliest

dtvho97

Just got into stocks. Have a few questions that I cannot find

Hi I just got into stocks and I want to learn as much as I can before starting but I have two questions that I can't find on the internet: If the value of a stock you own goes down, can't you just wait until the next rise? I don't see much companies that have completely gone down the drain, most usually go back up at some point. If people knows someone successful, someone who won the stock market why don't people just copy their movements? Thanks in advance. I know the questions are stupid but they are stuck in my mind

That is the point. When a companies’ stock price falls, one should hold out until it goes back up. That being said, a company may not be able to recover, depending on how far it falls, as well as other factors. You can’t copy someone’s moves unless you’re being told what they are doing, exactly when they do it. Stock prices change every second. Even the most successful person can’t see into the future, meaning they can lose just as much as anyone else. I would definitely look into stocks a lot more if I were you. It’s certainly not always sunshine and roses.

2# You can't do this because the stock prices fluctuated base on supply and demand. When you buy stock the default option is actually buying at market value, it's not guarantee that you buy stock at the price you see. It's all dynamic. You can ask to buy at this price and you'll get the best price or your broker will try their best to match the price at the time you see. This is Slippage. Slippage refers to the difference between the expected price of a trade and the price at which the trade is executed. Why does this matter? If everybody start copying some dude that make it big by buying a certain stock, the seller starts to raise to price of the stocks. Supply and demand. It highlight that the price of stock is dynamic and change in real time when you try to buy and sell things. The closing price listed is misleading because it's the last price before the end of the trading day.

stocks

LeRamiro

t3_eb9j6v

McNasty1Point0

fb39kjv

urmyheartBeatStopR

fb3vvck

College grad, $2 in my checking account, unemployed and looking for full-time work. What advice or suggestions could Reddit give?

I've been looking for work every single day. Never been more motivated in my life. However, I need to earn some type of money in the mean time. I tried applying for free lance writing but no luck, and I don't want to look for a part-time job while looking for full-time work, I feel like it doesn't make sense unless I have to. Is that rationale wrong? I can't tell. I just have my sights set on a FT position and don't want to settle for PT work. I don't know though, I need some advice. Have to do something. I need and want to work. Any ideas for side-jobs?

I don't understand your situation. So you have no money, but you refuse to accept any part-time work in the interim? Your first concern should be getting any type of job at all.

You could try a part time job for some extra $ and also to make connections. Something like working as a part time bank teller, filing papers in an office, etc. It took me more than 8mos to find a full time job out of college. I tutored a few hours a week and had a very small part time job in a consignment store (10-15h/week) to make ends meet. Having a part time gig to go to a few days a week helped me to structure my time and meet new connections who could help me in my search. Also, if you can save $1-2k, you could potentially afford to relocate someplace where the job market is better. Good luck!

personalfinance

bran-dono

t3_5nb0d8

Kingswing1

dca3mlu

laurae17

dcbd0ap

Psychological Value of Less Risk

I am a typical r/fi reader. I am 25 with about XX,XXX invested all in VTTSX working as a software engineer. I only started seriously putting money into the markets a year ago and had a nice upswing this year by maxing my IRA on January 1st. Despite being young I am considering moving to a more conservative position. I have an extensive poker background during which I went though large downswings relative to my net worth with my most extreme being around X,XXX dollars. I can distinctly remember my psychological state when going through large downswings. I'd literally feel sick to my stomach. Your mind is dominated by thoughts of worthlessness and depression. I am trying to determine the value of not having to experience such a mental state. Some of my most self destructions actions happened during these periods. On the other hand enduring has definitely increased my tolerance for dealing with fluctuations. I don't feel anything at all for <1000 swings. I am comfortable taking risks that other's are not. But losing 1,000 is not the same as 25,000. Is it better to reduce risk knowing you are giving up value, or is the solution to work on your psychology so the big swings don't effect you?

I think you should try to change your psychology. Like you said there was an upswing over the last year. Let's say for example you are up 10k. If the market now drops by 10k, you're not down 10k. You're even. Secondly, if the market drops 50%, you should be happy about that because shares are on sale and you ONLY have 50k invested. That's a small amount relative to what you are investing each year, while you're starting out. Once you have 500k, 1M, etc., then sure, be more conservative. But by then you are likely approaching retirement and should be more conservative anyway. And even if it does drop once you have a large portfolio, keep in mind point 1. You probably aren't really down as much as it seems. 50k really is insignificant in comparison to where you will be at the end of your career. You are investing for (likely) a couple decades, not a couple years. So, my opinion is, be aggressive. But you know yourself much better than I. If you will panic-sell at the bottom, or if it will affect your mental health, do what is best for you.

You could also split your investment between low and high risk. You could put some portion in bonds which are relatively safe, and then the remainder in a more aggressive portfolio. As time passes you can reallocate your money to keep this at whatever ratio you found comfortable. I started looking for a job right out of college in 2008 when all of the markets were still crashing from the housing bubble. Many people were losing their jobs, foreclosing on their homes, having to completely restructure their lives. Because of this, I've made it a goal of mine to try to have multiple income streams. It seems so precarious to me to have everything based off of one single source. Since then I've bought two rental properties that more than pay for themselves that I plan on using as income after I retire. So my portfolio looks something like this: ~100k equity in rental properties, ~100k in an aggressive 401k, ~35k in a target retirement fund Roth IRA through Vanguard, ~1k/month in rental income. My net worth is approximately $325k, but I have almost $500k in outstanding debt. That in itself is something that sometimes makes my stomach churn ($500k?!?! that's a LOT of money!), but I think it will be worth it in the long run. In order to buy my second rental property, I also took out a $50k loan from my 401k for the down payment, which effectively halved the total value of my 401k. It was definitely one of those days where I said to myself.. "Man, I really hope this works out, because if not, I'm screwed." That was a year and a half ago and I am (between contributions, repayment of the loan and gains in the market) back to where I started with my 401k. I'd recommend diversifying so even when you do have the negative downswings, you still have gains elsewhere.

financialindependence

RinnyFlamboyant

t3_5zz2ke

Jeff3210

df28m5k

saulsalita

df2qek7

Completely got ripped when buying a car, i'm here two years later needing help.

Hello, reddit! I need help and i've turned everywhere else i could go - so let's try you all shall we?! 2012 i buy a car for $29,000. It's a Mitsubishi Eclipse. Crazy, right? Well, back then, i was Muslim - and heavily forbidden to use interest. So, my dad, as i was 20 at the time, spoke to the dealership for hours. Thinking we won a deal, they gave us 0% APR, BUT added all the accumulated interest to the loan. Basically, a car that was work less than $20k, was sold for $30k with 0% APR. This happened in the beginning of 2012. I currently am paying $500 A MONTH for this car, and it's killing me - literally making me scrape through the goddamn week. I tried to trade it in, but i'm upside down. I still owe about $12k - and no dealership/third party car sales is willing to take this POS. even though my mileage isn't bad at all, I think I'm at 38,000. So, help! I'm thinking about voluntary repossession. What do you all think? P.S: my mom recently passed away (dont worry, this isnt turning into a sob story) so i had to start living on my own - which adds rent bills and what not. I get paid OK at work, but this car is literally kicking my ass. HELP.

If it's repod it will be sold at auction for likely less than you think it's worth then they will come after you for the difference plus repo/towing/storage fees. In most cases it's a myth that allowing a repo will save you money in the long run especially if you are seriously upside down. Also, no offense, but your father is a terrible negotiator. Assuming this was a 5 year loan on a 20k car, you are paying the equivalent of about 30% interest.

This can realy depend on where you currently live, in some places voluntary repossession clears the debt whereas in others you are still responsible for it. Also in some areas if you have a total loss and you are not responsible for the accident then you are exempt from the remaining balance whereas in others you are completely responsible.

personalfinance

Hiitslana

t3_2o27td

swalsh411

t1_cmj0ck0

cmj0ck0

scottfc

t1_cmjdwvz

cmjdwvz

Knowledge fatigue - venting thread

I started investing roughly a year ago and applied as much as due diligence I could as a retail investor with a full time job. I enjoyed the learning process as it was something new. I made sure to study everything I could. From Quant Models to Factors to studying the superinvestors. I ended up with a sizable notebook, various excel sheets, momentum signals, fundamental ratios to fill an entire book. Now what? the knowledge feels so dense and yet so little that I don't feel I am any better than I was a year ago. I feel stuck. Stuck that the index seems right now the more reasonable choice. DCA, monthly contribution and move on. Do I feel like it was a waste studying stock analysis? no I do feel like it helped me understand businesses better and even carrying some of that knowledge to my day to day work. Should I have indexed right the way from the beginning? probably. Did you guys experience something that similar where you felt the influx of information on how to invest renders you literally numb on how to even invest? if so how did you break out of it or did you fold like me and added indexing to your mix? TL;DR one year ago I though I could do better than the market, one year later, the index doesn't look that bad.

I had a similar experience but I came to the conclusion that all these models are great at explaining yesterday's price, but there is no guarantee it will reflect tomorrow's price. I was essentially coming up with elaborate and complex signal algorithms to predict a glorified coin toss.

Stock picking requires the time to do the work and the inclination to do so. You also need to have conviction in your decisions along with discipline. It's not for everybody and you will make mistakes along the way. You have to figure out what you did wrong when something doesn't work out. That's how you develop discipline. The discipline that comes from the rules you make that protect you against your own bad judgment about what’s going on at the companies you own or what’s happening in the market overall. And you need to always put discipline over conviction. It's worked out well for me but like I said, it's not for everybody.

investing

xolayu

t3_bwzkdy

exorad

eq2a7h7

stockpikr

eq3dil8

Buying a home without an inspection

We just lost out on the first home we put an offer on because two other offers did not have inspection clauses. The house was built in the 1920s and looked reasonably well-maintained, but we feel it would be foolish to waive an inspection. Can we expect to lose to "no inspection" offers every time? Under what circumstances would you waive an inspection? (We are first-time buyers in Seattle, WA if that makes a difference.)

Unless you're a licensed plumber, licensed electrician, generally good at drywall, and roof repair, can identify foundation issues, and fancy yourself an exterminator, I'd go ahead and keep losing to people willing to waive inspections.

Property was 2 years old and I waived inspection to make my offer more competitive. We also wanted a quick close and it ultimately worked out fine. On something built in the 20's, you definitely want an inspection, even if there was a rehab; you just want a trained set of eyes to make sure it was done right.

RealEstate

sklegg

t3_19uq8o

HotRodLincoln

t1_c8rjled

c8rjled

ChicagoAlex

t1_c8rlsd7

c8rlsd7

Home loan- Wife can't get on due to bad credit.

I'm in the process of buying a home. My wife cannot be on the home loan due to her having bad credit (from medical bills). We paid the bills but the items are still showing on her credit report (one still has an open status, Experian said they had to look into it and it might take a month, which we don't have). I had her email the confirmation numbers and bank statements showing the money leaving our account to the underwriter, but they still decided to deny her. I can solo this home loan but I'm a worst case kind of guy and have reservations about it. I love my wife, but what happens if we get divorced? Am I left with the bill and she still get half of the house when we sell? What if I die? Does the bank take it all and boot my wife and kid out onto the streets? Should go through with this? We already turned in our notice to the apartment landlord so I'm in a time crunch. Thanks for any response.

We already turned in our notice to the apartment landlord so I'm in a time crunch. You told your landlord you're moving out before you even secured financing for the house?

If you die it depends on your will. If you don't have a will or your will doesn't leave the house to someone else, then the house becomes your wife's property, and the loan does too. Do you have enough life insurance to cover your wife's expenses if she decides to keep the house? In no case will the bank seize the property unless the mortgage payments stop. A simple phone call after your death by your wife explaining the situation to the bank, and the bank will probably grant her a grace period while finances get worked out with the life insurance, the will, etc. If your wife can't afford the mortgage after your death, she'll need to sell the house in a timely manner to prevent foreclosure, but there'll be some time before the bank goes down that road. Divorce is less easily answered. Depends on the marriage and divorce laws in your state. Is it a common law state? An at-fault state? And no matter what the laws say the divorce decree issued by a judge based on the case presented can be almost anything. Personally I don't think you should be planning for divorce unless your marriage is already in trouble. It's not worth the effort or expense unless you are doing it as a pre-nuptual agreement, but since you're already married, it's too late for that.

personalfinance

IAMAcynicalbastard

t3_48m6kd

DannyInternets

d0kpxdj

katamino

d0koywj

Just received outrageous, unexpected, and unwarranted medical bill. Advice?

3 months ago, my wife had surgery to repair a broken nose from a car accident. We were told in advance how much the entire procedure would cost and paid that entire amount. When the nurse was preparing my wife to be discharged from the facility after the surgery, the nurse gave me several instructions and items to take home with us to continue treating her in the recovery process. One of those items we were given was an Intermittent Pneumatic Compression (IPC) device to help prevent blood clots in her legs post-surgery. We thought this was only something that was being used at the facility and we did not realize we got to keep it. So when we were told we got to take it home, we said "Oh, we get to take this with us?" To which the nurse responded, "Yes, it is yours to keep." I do not remember if she said it is included in the cost or if she just didn't mention a cost associated with the device at all; all I remember is that no words were exchanged that would indicate that we would later be charged for this device, and that the feeling of the conversation that did take place is that the device was included in the cost/already paid for/free. If the nurse would have told us the cost of the device, we for sure would have said no to taking it home with us. Fast forward to today, we received a bill in the mail from some medical facility that we have never heard of. It wasn't the surgeon's office and it wasn't the facility that the surgeon used to operate on my wife. At this point I am assuming it is the supplier of the IPC device that I guess supplies those devices to the surgical facility. The bill is for $4,899. We don't have that kind of money sitting around as I am finishing up a master's degree and my wife is now pregnant. And even if we did, I do not feel that this is something that we should have to pay. We are planning on calling tomorrow and trying to clarify what is going on and hopefully dismiss the charge or something, but obviously there are several ways this could go. What advice does anyone have for us, and are we right in thinking this is a bogus charge that we shouldn't have to pay?

Just FYI, I don’t know if you know or not, nurses have absolutely no clue what anything costs and neither do docs (at least inpatient). It’s all a completely separate department and it’s actually strongly discouraged to discuss it at all because we have a legal obligation to treat patients whether they can pay or not, at least in the ED. That said, I think the structure of medical fees is ridiculous and these things should be upfront and available to patients so that they know what they are being billed for ahead of time. I would definitely fight this. Have you called your insurance or the company that did bill you?

When you call, get a copy of what they billed with a list of both the diagnosis and procedure codes they used. When you call your insurance, you can tell them what was coded and they will know whether or not it was covered by insurance or not. MANY medical bills can be lowered just by the insurance carrier catching coding mistakes or suggesting changes. Your doctors office may be able to change the coding and appeal the claim to your insurance.

personalfinance

voltolt

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dee789

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Youjustgotread

e2lcqpa

Sanity check

I could use a little encouragement right now my hands are getting weak. &x200B I'm a 25 year old who put most of his savings (aside from my emergency fund) into Vanguard essentially at the market high a few weeks ago. I've got 80% in VTI/VOO and 20% in Total Bond ETF. I did this because I looked at my timeline and didn't see myself realistically buying a house or having any big expenses in the next \~5 years or so. &x200B My question is, if I actually intend on using this money in 5 years, should I pull out and cut my losses or just ride it out? I kind of know already I should keep myself in the market but I need some reassurance, friends. &x200B

I've got holdings in VOO too brother. Honestly stop worrying about it. You're not helping yourself here by stressing over this my guy. Whatever you do, don't press the sell button because once you do THEN your losses are realized. You'll look back 5 years from now while looking at the rebound and think, "damn I can't believe I stressed that much over that Coronavirus thing lol". Just forget about it and don't even look at your portfolio for a while. You have years of investing ahead of you and you don't want to look back on today as one of your biggest mistakes in your investing career!

Oh man. I have the same situation!! Entered the market almost at the peak. Now I’m seeing huge losses (5 figures). I put all my money in roboadvisor and I can’t take it out! I know it will crash more tomorrow. This feels terrible.

investing

Juanarino

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Ablstem

fiyb631

sw056

fizgho3

How low will the Apple share nosedive go?

Apple today tanking even more than others. Any ideas on where the bottom might be

For a bit while the weak hands are shaken out. This change in reporting is a non-issue. Apple should be judged on more than just iPhone sales. The smartphone market is mature and getting saturated, and no company is going to show massive growth. The moat is simply too big now. It's all about services, wearables now. Apple has a huge customer base that won't go away anytime soon. And they grew 20% YoY and trade lower than companies like Coca Cola.

I keep Apple on my watchlist and observe it's price daily, though I'll never buy because I don't believe in the company. That said, I do think any price under $200 is good for Apple, and it's probably beginning to bottom out (assuming the market stays stable).

stocks

triton100

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atdharris

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MartianRaptor

e93ty46

Credit card bill due tomorrow, scheduled to pay it off few minutes before midnight, is that considered late?

I have a Chase Freedom card and the bill is due tomorrow. I scheduled it just before midnight. It says the schedule is set to pay on the same day as the due date. Would that be considered late payment?

Though it may take out of your account at midnight, it might take a few days to process. Or it could also process on your credit cards end but not take out of your checking/savings account for a few days so keep an eye on that. If it does take a few days and you get hit with a late fee, call your credit card company. If they're good and you explain to them what happened, you can ask for a one time reversal of the fee. Though it says your payment is scheduled for a specific day, always pay a few days before, especially if it's over a weekend or holiday because those transactions have to process through ACH.

Maybe, call them. Had the same situation once. The gentleman canceled my payment, because it would be late and made a direct deposit through his system, which counts as instant.

personalfinance

ZoidbergRush

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MxLov13

d9hzypw

Twoshoes22

d9i1cm0

When will 10 year treasury yield rate be priced into the market??

Was just wondering when the consensus is that the increasing 10 year treasury yield rate will be priced into the market? I am tired of all my tech stocks getting obliterated lol...

As long as it keeps going up the markets will stay shaky like this. Just make sure you have strong stocks and average down cause in the long run you should be fine

JPow basically told lenders that they are okay with 2,5+% inflation for a decade. You tell me if you’d buy US10Y for 1,7% when Germany’s yield curve is partially inverted with the US heading there. ~20% of USD were created in the last 12 months and the FED just told everyone that this is going to continue and that they don’t care about the market with their priority being jobs. The amount of margin debt is headed towards an all time high, the stock market is at all time highs with little actual economy to back it up. The question is not if the biggest bubble ever blown up in the history of men will pop, it is when. No, IMO it is not priced in, not even close. 1,7% yield still is excruciatingly low, and the parallels to the Weimar Republic are spooky to say the least.

stocks

TheCrentistsoffice

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Rockefeller07

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grfawrz