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BigCode 968

2017/09/30

<issue_start>username_0: I'm a 3D printing newbie, and I bought some Hatchbox PLA to start with since it is recommended by the community it seems. Is there really a steep quality drop off if you go for brands that are 50% less than Hatchbox? What does that quality drop off look like?<issue_comment>username_1: There is no massive difference in print quality of PLA filaments unless you start going under 10 dollars US for a 1 kilo spool. The filament that I use is yoyi PLA that can be found on Amazon for about 20 bucks, this filament works really nice with my printer and it is fairly cheap. Just make sure you never use the hobby king brand PLS as the quality on that truly is horrendous. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: In addition to @TecTec3's answer: ### Parameters that define filament quality: * Diameter variance: If there is too much fluctuation in diameter, the filament might get stuck. * Material Quality: I had really expensive filament that was brittle and did tend to snap when it was extruded. Other filament just didn't melt but started burning up and regulary clogging my extruder. ### My opinion: I'd say you shouldn't go with too cheap filament and stick with one that works out best for you. If you have issues try another brand. It's impossible to tell quality just from the price. Upvotes: 2

2017/10/01

<issue_start>username_0: I am new to Fusion 360 and I think I'm going straight to something complicated. Is there a way to make a nose cone for a model rocket? What tools would one you to accomplish this?<issue_comment>username_1: If you have a specific shape in mind and can create a sketch to represent that shape, you are halfway to your goal. The concept is simple. Create a single line sketch that would represent the desired curve, starting from, in this example, the nose of the cone and traveling to the base. Create only one-half of the nose cone curve and maintain a "standard" axis reference, say, using the Y-axis as the rotation point. The process is called [revolve. Fusion 360](http://help.autodesk.com/view/fusion360/ENU/?guid=GUID-5C62F370-7AB4-4DFD-BE61-F8830F30A6D7) supports this action directly. ``` In the Sculpt workspace, choose Create Revolve. Select the profile to revolve. In the Revolve dialog: Click Axis and then select the axis to revolve around. Choose Full or Angle to specify whether the revolution is full or to a specific angle. For Direction choose One Side, Two Side or Symmetrical. For Symmetry, choose None or Circular. ``` The above text is taken directly from the link. The specific web site also includes a Flash video of the steps involved. If thickness is required for your creation, consider to draw the sketch from the nose to the base, then use Offset or hand sketch in a parallel line that returns to the nose. Ensure the base segment is joined and that the nose segments are open and are aligned to the Y-axis. As the sketch is revolved, the nose sections will "close" while the base creates the closure necessary to make a solid that is hollow within and open at the bottom. Use The Google or your preferred search engine with the terms "Fusion 360 Revolve" to find many tutorials and videos with the same information presented in various ways. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Try model8ng the rocket into the workspace, and then you can extruder a nose cone from the top using a 30 degree angle Upvotes: 0

2017/10/03

<issue_start>username_0: I'm having a frustrating problem with my recent built custom 3D printer so every single print I made, from the third layer, the nozzle is "rubbing" on the already placed filament. This results in a complete mess, melting the previous layers with the nozzle / new extrusions coming, getting malformed and out of precision forms, if I leave this happening, my Y-axis motor (bed) start to jump steps (by the force of nozzle friction to cold material). To stop that symptom, at the beginning of this, I have to raise the Z-axis by hand turning about 1/8 rotation of T8 fuse. By doing this, every rest of my printing runs peaceful, nicely, and beautiful. I'm using Marlin firmware, the most recent version, and Ultimaker Cura. My nozzle size is 0.5 and I'm using Ultimaker Cura's Fine Preset (0.1 mm height) My stepper motors axis are very well calibrated (X, Y, Z and Extruder). I tried: * lowering and raising the print bed to get spaced or shrunken first layers to see if something helps, * tried to change Z home offset on display, * tried the `M206` command to change the print zone of the Z-axis, * tried to change the first layer height on Ultimaker Cura, but nothing seems to solve my problems. Due to my lack of experience, I don't know what I could try to solve this frustrating issue. I already check and rechecked my mechanical structure and everything was fine solid and very well balanced and square. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/erJNy.jpg "Photo of failed print - side") [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YHGU5.jpg "Photo of failed print - front") From comment: * Printing speed are 40 mm/s, * Temps: * Hotend: 220 °C; * Hot Bed: 120 °C; * I have also tried 110 °C, * My Z-axis uses 800 steps per mm (1/32 micro stepping on DRV8825 at RAMPS). I'm thinking about over extrusion but I have fine tuned my stepper, checked and rechecked for it and seems normal<issue_comment>username_1: The first picture seems to show layer shift. Usual causes include: 1. Missed Z movement, so the nozzle hits the build and the layer is offset. 2. Bad acceleration in X/Y, so there is missed X/Y movement, and the layer is offset. Adjustment: reduce Z G0 speed, and reduce X/Y speeds (G0 and G1) and acceleration, and then repeat. Hopefully, correcting this will make the issue in the second picture easier to diagnose. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Your Z axis movement is somehow wrong. You should check steps/mm, z acceleration and speed. Try moving your z 10cm up and use caliper to check if it is correct. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Does Cura have options for avoiding perimeters during moves? And does it have an option to step up the z axis during non print moves? These were the two issues I was having with the nozzle dragging through the previous layers on my prints. I set the z axis to move up 0.2 mm during non print moves and to avoid Perimeters during non print moves (using Slic3r) which eliminated this issue for me almost entirely. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I'm not a 3d printing expert by any means, but I had some funky layer stuff going on before "wrinkled" first layer & gross edges w/overlap. For my printer, the problem was I was over-extruding. I followed this video by Tom's 3D: [3D printing guides - Calibrating your extruder](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y) For some reason, I had to do it twice before it actually worked. Once I got that calibrated (and fixed an uneven print bed), I was good to go. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: I have made some learning on mechanical setup and discovered some issues on my printer, there are few: 1. Bed warped, even with glass (thin thickness), making BAL confused with Z-movement over the bed. 2. Overextrusion making layer oversized in terms of thickness. 3. Some of missing mechanical fine adjustments. The main reason for this symptom was the overextrusion (that made my X and Y axis jump some steps when hotend collapses in the already-printed materials on their movements). I hope this helps some of those who have this similar problem! Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_6: I just flashed my new Ender 5 with Marlin and I had the same issue. The 2nd and 3rd layers were digging into the previous layers. I manually lowered the bed by 10 mm via the machine knob and the bed only moved 5.207 mm (I used a dial caliper). I went into the EEPROM and adjusted the steps/mm for the Z from 400 to 769: * 10 mm /5.207 mm is 1.921 * 400x1.921 is 768.4 * I rounded up to 769 The next test print was a success. This was an odd thing for me since the test print I did before flashing the firmware was just fine. It only started after I flashed Marlin. This is how I knew that it wasn't the stepper itself, but just a setting. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_7: Taken from a [rejected suggested edit](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/review/suggested-edits/12352). If the author ([Gareth](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28867/gareth)) posts their own answer, this can be deleted, or flagged for deletion --- My Ender 3 is not warped in any way but there are several issues I needed to address: 1. Extrusion: Check your extruder and Z eSteps for accuracy, as detailed in numerous places. Test layer width: print a cube in vase mode (1 shell thick) and measure wall thickness. Adjust extrusion multiplier accordingly. 2. Bed Level: I was leveling with the '1 sheet of paper' method. I started using two sheets of paper. To compensate for reduced bed adhesion I use hairspray. 3. Mechanical 1: I found my X carriage was slightly loose: the hotend was pulled upwards or rode upwards during some moves then grinding on subsequent layers. Test: Grab the rail with your left hand then push with your thumb against the top left roller. If the roller rides up the groove then the carriage is loose. Fix: The carriage is held firm by an eccentric on the bottom roller. Loosen the bottom wheel bolt, adjust the eccentric nut until the carriage is firm on the rail. Then back off slightly until motion is free. This is best done with the belt loose or disconnected. 4. Mechanical 2: X rail sags on the right. I found the X rail assembly was not even height across the width. Again, the eccentric roller was loose. Test: Measure rail height on both sides. Fix: Adjust inside eccentric roller as above. 5. Mechanical 3: Tighten belts. Obviously, this is brief. Check your manual or YouTube for anything you're unsure of. Upvotes: 1

2017/10/04

<issue_start>username_0: So I am missing small sections of a layer when it prints, after a retraction for a layer change or a move, the extruder stops moving (no it isn't clicking or anything else. Just not moving). Which is fine for a few millimeters because the pressure inside the Bowden setup keeps pushing enough filament through. However, once that isn't enough it starts to make very thin lines with beads of plastic just barely holding things together. Basically this ends up as a good 2 cm or more at times of highly under extruded lines. This happens in the slowdown after the retraction when it is restarting. it simply doesn't move the extruder at all. The reason I know this is because I can see the extruder not moving, in that brief period. I know it is not the extruder clicking or anything else because I can disengage the extruder spring and push filament through manually during this time with no issues. I am using Ideamaker currently because I like it. I have looked at this [Holes/ missing layers (after retraction) in 3d printed objects](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/313/holes-missing-layers-after-retraction-in-3d-printed-objects) which is somewhat similar in appearance, but not in reason. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Eq26y.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ag8OA.jpg) **EDIT:** So I figure it is some form of coasting that IdeaMaker has implemented for their Raise printers. I am going to try and reduce the length of the coaster attempt to convert my Bowden to a direct drive with titan extruder. I have the Titan already, but it has been giving me issues with not having enough power to push filament without ripping it to shreds. That's another thing I have to look at at some point when I have the time.<issue_comment>username_1: The first picture seems to show layer shift. Usual causes include: 1. Missed Z movement, so the nozzle hits the build and the layer is offset. 2. Bad acceleration in X/Y, so there is missed X/Y movement, and the layer is offset. Adjustment: reduce Z G0 speed, and reduce X/Y speeds (G0 and G1) and acceleration, and then repeat. Hopefully, correcting this will make the issue in the second picture easier to diagnose. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Your Z axis movement is somehow wrong. You should check steps/mm, z acceleration and speed. Try moving your z 10cm up and use caliper to check if it is correct. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Does Cura have options for avoiding perimeters during moves? And does it have an option to step up the z axis during non print moves? These were the two issues I was having with the nozzle dragging through the previous layers on my prints. I set the z axis to move up 0.2 mm during non print moves and to avoid Perimeters during non print moves (using Slic3r) which eliminated this issue for me almost entirely. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I'm not a 3d printing expert by any means, but I had some funky layer stuff going on before "wrinkled" first layer & gross edges w/overlap. For my printer, the problem was I was over-extruding. I followed this video by Tom's 3D: [3D printing guides - Calibrating your extruder](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y) For some reason, I had to do it twice before it actually worked. Once I got that calibrated (and fixed an uneven print bed), I was good to go. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: I have made some learning on mechanical setup and discovered some issues on my printer, there are few: 1. Bed warped, even with glass (thin thickness), making BAL confused with Z-movement over the bed. 2. Overextrusion making layer oversized in terms of thickness. 3. Some of missing mechanical fine adjustments. The main reason for this symptom was the overextrusion (that made my X and Y axis jump some steps when hotend collapses in the already-printed materials on their movements). I hope this helps some of those who have this similar problem! Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_6: I just flashed my new Ender 5 with Marlin and I had the same issue. The 2nd and 3rd layers were digging into the previous layers. I manually lowered the bed by 10 mm via the machine knob and the bed only moved 5.207 mm (I used a dial caliper). I went into the EEPROM and adjusted the steps/mm for the Z from 400 to 769: * 10 mm /5.207 mm is 1.921 * 400x1.921 is 768.4 * I rounded up to 769 The next test print was a success. This was an odd thing for me since the test print I did before flashing the firmware was just fine. It only started after I flashed Marlin. This is how I knew that it wasn't the stepper itself, but just a setting. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_7: Taken from a [rejected suggested edit](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/review/suggested-edits/12352). If the author ([Gareth](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28867/gareth)) posts their own answer, this can be deleted, or flagged for deletion --- My Ender 3 is not warped in any way but there are several issues I needed to address: 1. Extrusion: Check your extruder and Z eSteps for accuracy, as detailed in numerous places. Test layer width: print a cube in vase mode (1 shell thick) and measure wall thickness. Adjust extrusion multiplier accordingly. 2. Bed Level: I was leveling with the '1 sheet of paper' method. I started using two sheets of paper. To compensate for reduced bed adhesion I use hairspray. 3. Mechanical 1: I found my X carriage was slightly loose: the hotend was pulled upwards or rode upwards during some moves then grinding on subsequent layers. Test: Grab the rail with your left hand then push with your thumb against the top left roller. If the roller rides up the groove then the carriage is loose. Fix: The carriage is held firm by an eccentric on the bottom roller. Loosen the bottom wheel bolt, adjust the eccentric nut until the carriage is firm on the rail. Then back off slightly until motion is free. This is best done with the belt loose or disconnected. 4. Mechanical 2: X rail sags on the right. I found the X rail assembly was not even height across the width. Again, the eccentric roller was loose. Test: Measure rail height on both sides. Fix: Adjust inside eccentric roller as above. 5. Mechanical 3: Tighten belts. Obviously, this is brief. Check your manual or YouTube for anything you're unsure of. Upvotes: 1

2017/10/05

<issue_start>username_0: I would like to use nail polish to paint and smooth a PLA model. Could nail polish damage a model made out of pure PLA?<issue_comment>username_1: Nail polish contains acetone. It melts PLA, so yes you *could* damage it. Google acetone vapor batch to read up on a safer way to do the job. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I would not expect a problem. The greatest problem I would expect would be if the PLA layers were not well bonded, and the coating material could work in between layers. If so, over time the difference in water absorption or thermal expansion could further separate the layers. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: NO if you want to smooth your print, gently heat the plastic and with a utensil smooth out the plastic. A hair dryer is a good way of doing this but be careful to only lightly melt the outside of the model. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: This is an ugly question, and an ugly answer. 1. Nail polish doesn't come with an ingredient list. Nor are there MSDS's available to refer to what solvents are in it. So it's "unknown 1" 2. Most every filament company will not give you a list of compounds for colorants or plasticizers used. MSDS is off the table. So, even though we do know what PLA and ABS is inherently, we have no clue about the other ingredients used to make your particular filament. This is "unknown 2". What both of these comes down to is a very nasty situation indeed. We know for a fact that ABS dissolves into acetone. PLA does not.... Except we have had reports of PLA that does. When we look further into those responses, and ask them to do a burn test, they smell popcorn and something acrid (ABS). This guarantees unless we have virgin material and MSDS in hand, you only have a close guess at what material you have. And that's to say nothing about "nail polish", and its components. There are also other solvents that will dissolve PLA. MakerBot back before they turned evil, noted a solution called Beta Solution (90% isopropyl alcohol, 9% KOH, 1% Al(OH)3 ). This stuff is noted for dissolving PLA and leaving ABS intact. Long story short: "Could Nail Polish damage pure PLA?" We can't guarantee purity of PLA, we can't guarantee contents of nail polish's solvents. The only answer is to print a swatch and test yourself. Calibration cubes are quick and easy. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: Nail polish will not damage your PLA model. 1) Let's talk about "gel" nail polish. Gel polish self-levels, does not drip, is cheap, is much more health-friendly than many finishing methods, and only takes 30 seconds under a suitable strength UV/LED lamp to dry, providing a thick smooth coat (clear, color, glitter!, anything) that makes any layer lines disappear. 2) The FDA regulates nail polish in its "cosmetics" category, so, not only are the ingredients known, they have to be printed on the bottle. 3) Gel polish consists of various methacrylate monomers which undergo a radical (in the chemistry sense, although it is pretty darn cool too) polymerization process that is UV-activable. Filament is primarily polyactide, which is polymerized at room temperature. Polymerized polyactide reacts with methylacrylate at the ends of the long strands (not in the middle, which is what you would describe as "damage"). Methylacrylate actually makes the PLA ends less reactive (read: it makes it stronger). As an industrial material, this compound is known as "supertoughened" PLA. Hope that clears things up a bit. As an aside, if you're not familiar with the different families of nail polishes, and you want to try this, you can tell if the polish you're looking at is "gel" because the bottle will be opaque (keeps UV out). Upvotes: 2

2017/10/14

<issue_start>username_0: A while ago, I created some simple command buttons in Octoprint to help with bed levelling, by hopping to particular points on the bed. I realised that what I actually want to do is move Z up 10mm, move, and then home Z though, to avoid ploughing the nozzle along the bed if the level is badly off. So I did this: ``` - commands: - G91 - G1 Z-10 - G90 - G1 X30 Y160 F9000 - G28 Z name: Back Left type: command ``` Which should be, switch to relative move, Move -10mm Z, switch back to absolute, go to the specified point and then home Z. Except there's no Z move. I get the feeling that something might be optimising the moves together into one, or something similar... how can I get my printer to move up, *then* across, *then* down? (printer is an quite modified Anet A8 i3 clone - I think the board is Melzi-based?)<issue_comment>username_1: Nail polish contains acetone. It melts PLA, so yes you *could* damage it. Google acetone vapor batch to read up on a safer way to do the job. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I would not expect a problem. The greatest problem I would expect would be if the PLA layers were not well bonded, and the coating material could work in between layers. If so, over time the difference in water absorption or thermal expansion could further separate the layers. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: NO if you want to smooth your print, gently heat the plastic and with a utensil smooth out the plastic. A hair dryer is a good way of doing this but be careful to only lightly melt the outside of the model. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: This is an ugly question, and an ugly answer. 1. Nail polish doesn't come with an ingredient list. Nor are there MSDS's available to refer to what solvents are in it. So it's "unknown 1" 2. Most every filament company will not give you a list of compounds for colorants or plasticizers used. MSDS is off the table. So, even though we do know what PLA and ABS is inherently, we have no clue about the other ingredients used to make your particular filament. This is "unknown 2". What both of these comes down to is a very nasty situation indeed. We know for a fact that ABS dissolves into acetone. PLA does not.... Except we have had reports of PLA that does. When we look further into those responses, and ask them to do a burn test, they smell popcorn and something acrid (ABS). This guarantees unless we have virgin material and MSDS in hand, you only have a close guess at what material you have. And that's to say nothing about "nail polish", and its components. There are also other solvents that will dissolve PLA. MakerBot back before they turned evil, noted a solution called Beta Solution (90% isopropyl alcohol, 9% KOH, 1% Al(OH)3 ). This stuff is noted for dissolving PLA and leaving ABS intact. Long story short: "Could Nail Polish damage pure PLA?" We can't guarantee purity of PLA, we can't guarantee contents of nail polish's solvents. The only answer is to print a swatch and test yourself. Calibration cubes are quick and easy. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: Nail polish will not damage your PLA model. 1) Let's talk about "gel" nail polish. Gel polish self-levels, does not drip, is cheap, is much more health-friendly than many finishing methods, and only takes 30 seconds under a suitable strength UV/LED lamp to dry, providing a thick smooth coat (clear, color, glitter!, anything) that makes any layer lines disappear. 2) The FDA regulates nail polish in its "cosmetics" category, so, not only are the ingredients known, they have to be printed on the bottle. 3) Gel polish consists of various methacrylate monomers which undergo a radical (in the chemistry sense, although it is pretty darn cool too) polymerization process that is UV-activable. Filament is primarily polyactide, which is polymerized at room temperature. Polymerized polyactide reacts with methylacrylate at the ends of the long strands (not in the middle, which is what you would describe as "damage"). Methylacrylate actually makes the PLA ends less reactive (read: it makes it stronger). As an industrial material, this compound is known as "supertoughened" PLA. Hope that clears things up a bit. As an aside, if you're not familiar with the different families of nail polishes, and you want to try this, you can tell if the polish you're looking at is "gel" because the bottle will be opaque (keeps UV out). Upvotes: 2

2017/10/16

<issue_start>username_0: I'm having a Prusa i3 derivative printer with a capacitive sensor for the z-axis. It switches a tiny bit before the nozzle hits the print bed and hence needs a z-offset to be configured. In Slic3r I have configured the z-offset to `-0.1` on the *General* page of the *Printer Settings*, but currently I'm evaluating Cura and can't find such a setting. Slic3r seems to apply this setting directly to the generated z-values in the g-code, so it does not use a short version at the beginning of the g-code. My current (except of the auto-bed-leveling part default) g-code: ``` G28 ;Home G29 ; auto-bed-leveling G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 G1 F200 E3 G92 E0 ``` Is there a way to configure Cura, e.g. using the *Start Gcode* options, to apply the z-offset?<issue_comment>username_1: You can trick the printer into applying an offset using the `G92` command: ``` G0 Z0 G92 Z0.1 ``` First, we move the nozzle to `Z=0`. Next, through the `G92` command, we tell the printer to, from now on, treat the current position as `Z=0.1`. This effectively applies an offset of `-0.1` to the Z-axis, since if we now executed `G0 Z0` again, the nozzle would move down `0.1mm`. Note that this needs to be done after homing and leveling to be effective. Of course, you don't necessarily need to move the nozzle to `Z=0` for this to work. You could also just insert `G92 Z15.1` after `G0 Z15` to get the same effect. Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: For Cura 3.1(?)+: ================= 1. Install the plugin: Menu / Plugins / Browse Plugins... / scroll to "Z Offset plugin" **<-- Install** 2. Configure the setting: `Printer Profile / Print Setup / Build Plate Adhesion / Z Offset` * set positive value for nozzle liftup * **set negative value** to bring nozzle lower for first layer (like -0.1 for your wanted scenario) Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I built my printer five years ago with a similar issue and I strongly suggest that the physical 0 will be the actual 0 instead of tweeking it into the system. Especially if you are exploring and testing new methods, i.e. Cura vs Slic3r settings. In Marlin, you can insert a z adjustment for the endstops but it can create future complications if you decide to upgrade the machine. Keep it as simple as possible, if a sensor is misplaced don't try to reverse calculate it, the pressure of the motors will nudge it and after a while you'll have the same problem... Upvotes: -1

2017/10/16

<issue_start>username_0: I want to draw a corner piece for a Kossel delta 3D printer in Fusion 360 for 2040 aluminum extrusions like in the picture below, but I can't find a way to actually start. I draw a 3-sided polygon and a 20x40 mm rectangle but don't know where to go from there. Do you have any suggestions? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxAR4.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: I attempted to create your drawing but discovered that an important set of parameters is missing. You have to have either the intersection point of the legs (73.34) from each side or the angle between the legs (73.34) and the base (106.41) to create construction lines. Once you have either of those items, you can construct the remainder of the design using offsets, radii, etc. More accurately, one other missing item that would be required to complete this design is the placement of the holes at the top (12) relative to some other feature of the design. Having taken on the challenge of your drawing, I've found that it is necessary to surrender. The angles or the intersection point are critical and without them, no solution comes to my alleged mind. I have also discovered one additional datum missing. The distance of the bottom truss and the thickness of this truss would be required to provide a more certain solution. One the flip side, I've found [alpha-tech3d.com](https://alfa-tech3d.com/en/metal-thread-rods/corner-set-of-aluminum-to-delta-rostock-kossel-3d-printer.html) which appears to include similar parts, rotated 180° with what appears to have all of the necessary data. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/peYBe.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjVpH.jpg) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I love me a challenge so I just hacked this together: (a half waiting for mirror) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z8Skx.png) As for strategy, I simply used the line tool to do a basic shape and then went to town with constraints and dimensions to see what I end up with. Can't fail. Clearly, you're missing information to constraint the sketch fully, but if you have the extrusions and the machine, you could just print a few tests to guess the missing values. (Like precise position of the circles, of the 20x40 rectangle...) You can download/ view my fusion model here: <http://a360.co/2gJsdxB> Good luck. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]

2017/10/18

<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to print a model that has (at the start of the print) several small parts attached to the bed. Some of these parts have bed contact 2.5mm x 20mm. After a few layers, if there are any imperfections in the previous layer, the hotend is bumping the imperfection and knocking the part loose. I am using a genuine Prusa i3 Mk2s with Filaform PLA. I am slicing with PrusaControl and using the "Generic PLA" settings, which is giving me 215/210 degree hot end (first/other layers), and 55 degree bed. I have the fan enabled. The print bed is clean and dust free How can I improve bed adhesion for these small parts, ideally without adding brims etc? Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: One technique is to add your own custom brims to the model. A couple of "Mickey Mouse ears", attached to each end of the piece, may be enough to keep it in place (and will also be easy to remove). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: First off, in my experience 215 °C printing temperature is very high for PLA. Try using 200 - 205 °C. And whatever you are printing, I can't see why brims would be a problem. Use a sharp knife to remove them afterwards. As you described the parts are thin and long, which increases heat contraction. Brims are essential for this. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: My low-tech solution is to smear on some school/craft glue-stick. This is so quick and so easy yet it has saved me so many times from going any further troubleshooting adhesion problems. My [answer to a similar question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5781/9719) describes this in full. Upvotes: 0

2017/10/18

<issue_start>username_0: I've printed a 2x2x2 cm test cube with Slic3r (left) and Ultimaker Cura (right) and my Prusa i3 derivative machine with tight belts. The print settings should be quite equal (0.15 mm layer height, 40 mm/s outer wall speed, default accelerations/jerks). Though the top surface of the Ultimaker Cura-cube looks much better than the Slic3r-cube, [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjqvC.jpg "Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura") the latter has much flatter vertical walls than the first. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bxs8l.jpg "Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura") [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OUmz6.jpg "Left: Slic3er, right: Ultimaker Cura") The front wall of the Ultimaker Cura-cube was printed from left to right which could explain the wavy result as some kind of vibration caused by the sharp y-stop at the left front corner. But what setting could have influenced this? Should I try to manual setting of lower accelerations in Ultimaker Cura?<issue_comment>username_1: Those wavy lines could be artefacts caused by closely-spaced infill, but they could also be resonance patterns caused by noisy stepper motors and over-tight belts. Since you have said that you have your belts nice and tight, I would suggest reducing the tension on them and see what happens. I know that some pundits say that it is not possible to have timing belts too tight, but I disagree with that. Belts should obviously be tight enough to eliminate free play in the system, and you may have a lot of latitude in the tensions that you can use, but if you make them drum-tight, they will transmit motor vibrations very effectively to the build plate (and onto your models). If your stepper motors are noisy, you may want to invest in some vibration dampers. They can reduce noise and vibration significantly. Another solution would be to use more sophisticated stepper motor drivers, such as the TMC2100. [RepRapWiki: TMC2100](http://reprap.org/wiki/TMC2100) Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: This defect that you see is called "Ringing" and is described in detail [here](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/vibrations-and-ringing/). In summary, these waves are seen when the print head makes a sudden change in direction in combination with high speeds and high accelerations. As the waves dampen in amplitude the further you get from the sharp corner, this is related to print settings rather than vibrations transmitted through the belts. Apparently, the settings for Ultimaker Cura differ from the settings in Slic3r, there is no other explanation as the hardware is exactly the same. Reducing print speed and acceleration in Ultimaker Cura will reduce the ringing defects. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: It is difficult to see with the lighting and the shiny green, but try printing a more complex object, like the usual [XYZ cube](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865). Does it look like this one? which means big waves after a change of direction, but then getting smaller? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8t6k.jpg) If so, it is "ringing" or "ghosting", which means that the acceleration you set is too high for the mechanics of your printer and the machine vibrates too much. Does it look like this one? Which means, exactly aligned vertically, and everywhere, not only after changes of direction? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bujra.png) Then it is NOT ringing, it is due * too tight belt (almost always!) * poor quality belt * poor bearings or idlers (not common) I also had it and it was the belt, too tight. Loosen it, it can be much looser than you think before you get issues. Check [How to fix evenly spaced vertical print pattern](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8020/how-to-fix-evenly-spaced-vertical-print-pattern) to get more information about the second issue. There is another potential cause for wavy walls, however I'm mentioning it for completeness, it is not the case of the question. If the waves repeat horizontally, but are not aligned vertically, and the extruder is a direct drive, it could be caused by the issue explained in this video, which shows that the dual gear of direct drives introduce periodic changes in flow, which are visible sometimes. Upvotes: 0

2017/10/18

<issue_start>username_0: Currently, 3D Builder is telling me "one or more objects are invalidly defined. Click here to repair." What is this and what does it mean? When I click it, it totally messes up my model (I can't tell what it even did due to the orthogonal camera). Model stats: * Made with Sketchup * Used STL Exporter to export it * Last I knew what the repairing did to it was to remove my sinks and reduced them to holes in the floor * I used ASCII encoding for my STL (I tried using Binary, but it didn't help) * I tried subdividing it but it didn't help. Screenshots: This is a picture of the model before repairing: [](https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/173c/2026o54i3pm7h1szg.jpg) This is a picture of the model after repairing: [](https://www.mediafire.com/convkey/cd41/uh5e97ak6j79zoyzg.jpg) (Just in case you wonder. I actually **have** to use STL for this project)<issue_comment>username_1: Those wavy lines could be artefacts caused by closely-spaced infill, but they could also be resonance patterns caused by noisy stepper motors and over-tight belts. Since you have said that you have your belts nice and tight, I would suggest reducing the tension on them and see what happens. I know that some pundits say that it is not possible to have timing belts too tight, but I disagree with that. Belts should obviously be tight enough to eliminate free play in the system, and you may have a lot of latitude in the tensions that you can use, but if you make them drum-tight, they will transmit motor vibrations very effectively to the build plate (and onto your models). If your stepper motors are noisy, you may want to invest in some vibration dampers. They can reduce noise and vibration significantly. Another solution would be to use more sophisticated stepper motor drivers, such as the TMC2100. [RepRapWiki: TMC2100](http://reprap.org/wiki/TMC2100) Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: This defect that you see is called "Ringing" and is described in detail [here](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/vibrations-and-ringing/). In summary, these waves are seen when the print head makes a sudden change in direction in combination with high speeds and high accelerations. As the waves dampen in amplitude the further you get from the sharp corner, this is related to print settings rather than vibrations transmitted through the belts. Apparently, the settings for Ultimaker Cura differ from the settings in Slic3r, there is no other explanation as the hardware is exactly the same. Reducing print speed and acceleration in Ultimaker Cura will reduce the ringing defects. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: It is difficult to see with the lighting and the shiny green, but try printing a more complex object, like the usual [XYZ cube](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865). Does it look like this one? which means big waves after a change of direction, but then getting smaller? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8t6k.jpg) If so, it is "ringing" or "ghosting", which means that the acceleration you set is too high for the mechanics of your printer and the machine vibrates too much. Does it look like this one? Which means, exactly aligned vertically, and everywhere, not only after changes of direction? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bujra.png) Then it is NOT ringing, it is due * too tight belt (almost always!) * poor quality belt * poor bearings or idlers (not common) I also had it and it was the belt, too tight. Loosen it, it can be much looser than you think before you get issues. Check [How to fix evenly spaced vertical print pattern](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8020/how-to-fix-evenly-spaced-vertical-print-pattern) to get more information about the second issue. There is another potential cause for wavy walls, however I'm mentioning it for completeness, it is not the case of the question. If the waves repeat horizontally, but are not aligned vertically, and the extruder is a direct drive, it could be caused by the issue explained in this video, which shows that the dual gear of direct drives introduce periodic changes in flow, which are visible sometimes. Upvotes: 0

2017/10/21

<issue_start>username_0: I recently switched to a RAMPS 1.4 on an Arduino Mega 2560. Ever since I have extruder temperature swings a couple of minutes into the print, but it looks like a problem reading the temp rather than actual fluctuations in the temperature (as can be seen in the attached pic). Also, I've noticed that the MOSFET is getting really hot when I heat the heated bed. What is the problem and how can I fix it? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QETof.png)<issue_comment>username_1: For the really hot mosfet I would say it might be a good idea to get one of those external mosfet module boards. It just seems like a good idea to me, to not have the huge current of the bed-heater flowing through the ramps board. And for the thermistor wires, do you have them twisted together? If not, try tightly twisting the pair (of + & -) together to ensure there is no interference from other signals. Careful not to put stress on where the wires are attached to the actual thermistor-head. Honestly, all of your wiring should be in twisted-pair configuration. <https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair> Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: For the overheating, you may need to turn the juice down a little on your Power Supply. Typically, there is a potentiometer inside that trims the voltage level coming from there. Some things can heat up if it's over-volting and needing to drop more voltage for the board. For the temperature reading stuff, make sure the thermistor is plugged in all way and not possibly dangling near the hot-end block. I have had that happen before and it will report improper temperatures as it goes along, and often results in the hot-end getting too hot and messing with the filament. If it's properly secured it might be just crappy or broken in some other way and you would need to replace it. It's reasonable practice to have a few extra thermistors lying around as having them go out at lousy times will bum you out. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I saw that you said you switched to a RAMPS 1.4 . I'll warn you that the componetry for the cheap $20 RAMPS 1.4's have significant issues, including under-speccing parts, using wrong part, not including enough copper for traces on the boards, and other quality concerns that can equal "FIRE" (not a euphemism). You've noticed temperature fluctuations as well, as seen in the graph. This could be the result of a few different things. 1. You din't PID tune the Hotend. Read [M303](http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning) for the full way to do this. Then either using EEPROM or by compiling the Kp, Ki, Kd variables, and store them in your configuration.h (assuming you're using Marlin). 2. Your thermistor is loose. When it heats, it loosens and creates a 'not great' contact against the hotend, giving spotty results. **HOWEVER** the really concerning thing is that the power MOSFET isn't specced high enough for you board. If you've noticed it very hot to the touch, and also collaborated by a really 'squirrely' heated bed graph, then you have some significant problems with this part. There is a solution. But you ever hear the adage "If you buy cheap, prepare to buy thrice." ? It applies in your situation. Because in order to route around the crappy MOSFET, you need an external MOSFET board. [THIS](https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet) is a good place to see what part I'm talking about, common places to buy them (Amazon and eBay are good for quicker, and Aliexpress is cheaper and longer). The aforementioned link also includes wiring diagrams and setup. So, it looks like a set of problems, with only 1 actually costing money. And ideally, those MOSFET boards are around $10 from Amazon(Prime), or up to $20 for the really nice TriGorilla ones. **IF/WHEN you buy a Power MOSFET board**, make sure to EXCEED the amount of watts when compared to your heating solution. If you're using 12v, then you need an ohmmeter to get the resistance of the board. Solve for amps: ``` Amperage = volts/resistance ``` Then once you have amps, take: ``` amps*volts = watts ``` This is how much watts your heated bed uses. **MAKE SURE TO EXCEED THIS BY 10%** Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4:  By my mistake 12v in heatbed Vout plug and then the temperature shows(ramps 1.6) Plase help me Upvotes: 0

2017/10/23

<issue_start>username_0: So I've seen some very good design software, but almost all of it is very expensive. I'm just wondering if there's a good cheap design software out there.<issue_comment>username_1: Try Fusion 360. It's free for educators, students, enthusiasts and start-ups. It's not 100% intuitive, but once you learn the basics, it probably has all the facilities that you will ever need for mechanical design. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: OnShape is free for students and the public and is very similar to Fusion 360. It works online on almost any device and was built by some of the engineers from Solidworks. Free accounts can not have any private documents so anyone can see your design. If you know how to use Solidworks/Inventor you will be able to pickup Fusion 360/OnShape very quickly. OpenSCAD is also free but works through its own programming language. It requires a strong math background and some understanding of programming to use as it has no GUI tools. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]

2017/10/25

<issue_start>username_0: How can I center a model at the middle of the printing area of the printer when creating a g-code with CuraEngine. Are there any parameters I can add to `ultimaker2.def.json` to achieve this? Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: If this is over the commandline tool "CuraEngine", then you will have to read the sourcecode. According to the [Author](https://ultimaker.com/en/community/4337-doc-of-curaengine), 'Nope. Only documentation there is in the code, readme and my head.' (cringe!). If you're talking of the GUI program, then right click and click "Center". But this requires GUI usage. Not so nice if you want to automate using curaengine as your slicer. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Found a solution. This need to be applied under `"settings"` ``` "command_line_settings": { "label": "Command Line Settings", "description": "Settings which are only used if CuraEngine isn't called from the Cura frontend.", "type": "category", "enabled": true, "children": { "center_object": { "description": "Whether to center the object on the middle of the build platform (0,0), instead of using the coordinate system in which the object was saved.", "type": "bool", "label": "Center object", "default_value": true, "enabled": true } } } ``` Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]

2017/10/25

<issue_start>username_0: So I started using Cura a few weeks ago, and when I print it goes to 204 Celsius instead of 200. It doesn't really affect my print quality but I just want to know if there's a fix for it. My printer is a Da Vinci Jr 1.0.<issue_comment>username_1: That's called PID overshoot. All control loops have varying types of outliers like this. Sometimes, you can't overshoot, sometimes you cant undershoot. But it's a remnant of the math. The solution here, is to [PID Tune](http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning). Once you get an established Kp Ki and Kd constants, then you can either save it to eeprom or you can recompile your firmware with this change. It's pretty common, especially if you have different hotends without known profiles. PID tuning also works on heated beds as well. But usually those use what's called [Bang-bang](http://reprap.org/wiki/ExtruderIO#Bang-bang_control). Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Its mainly due to the regulation loop of the PID Regulator implemented in the Firmware of the Da vinci jr. The P-Factor is a little bit too high. This is the reason why the temperature "overshoots". Because the Printerhead and Nozzle has some volume which is heated up. It takes time to cool down after it has detected an overshoot. here you can find additional informations about it: <https://innovativecontrols.com/blog/basics-tuning-pid-loops> Upvotes: 2

2017/10/25

<issue_start>username_0: I am re-writing this question because, well, it needs to be updated. I have the Anet A6, but in a general sense of things, what kind of threads can I produce before it no longer works?<issue_comment>username_1: This depends on the nozzle diameter, the layer thickness, and the material. I've made very good M8 and acceptable M6 threads (nut and bolt) at 0.2mm layers with a 0.5mm nozzle, out of ABS, and also out of PETG. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I have found that I get slightly different results with different printers and different plastics and print temperatures. For doing parts like nuts and bolts you will probably have to print several prototype parts once you get your printer to get the setting and tolerances right, once you get a print. But just decreasing the layer height and getting the nozzle temp and cooling right should let you get some working parts. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUcio.png) You can get the sloped surfaces the still look ok but are not dimensional accurate with to high an angle. I find if is easiest to print and then test and then adjust the tolerances on the design. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rvkGA.png) Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I don't have a printer like yours but it should not matter. Once you follow the calibration steps listed at <https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/articles/extrusion_multiplier.md> and you set the slicer to 0.1 mm, you should be able to print working threads at the first attempt. I printed in PLA a thread (both screw and nut) with a 1.5 mm pitch and it worked immediately (it was a bit hard to turn, it got better after using it few times). A G 1/2 thread (pipe thread) in ASA (only nut) also worked immediately. I had more issues with deep threads: M30x1.5 worked immediately, but I couldn't get M30x3 mm to work. Basically printing threads with pitch from 0.8 to 1.5 mm should be fine if the axis is vertical. 0.1 mm layer height is important to keep overhangs small, see video The nozzle is not so important, you can use 0.4-0.6 without issues. I used 0.4 mm. Upvotes: 1

2017/10/25

<issue_start>username_0: Cura is slicing my object (a gear with text) with a partial top layer, and I believe it has to do with layer height and rounding issues. I have been able to solve this at specific heights 10-14mm using a layer height of 0.25 mm, however other heights will cause this issue to arise again. There must be a solution to this that doesn't require the user to constantly be adjusting layer height and object height in order to resolve what I perceive to be a rounding issue. Here is the model: <https://filebin.ca/3f2g2s0dklzR/hackEly_v1.0_joined_text_2.stl> Here are my settings: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBRnV.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oZZY.png) Here is the model at a height of 10 mm: Note the diagonal line, this is the line between two layers. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hz3gz.png) Here is the model at a height of 13 mm: Note the diagonal line again, and how it is farther to the right than the 10mm height view. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8SLTX.jpg) I don't believe that this is not a non-manifold issue. I have also tested this using a gear without text. Like I mentioned, I can get rid of that layer division at certain layer heights and object heights (e.g. 0.25mm layer height), but I would like to find out how to get rid of this issue *regardless of object/layer height*. Thank you for your help.<issue_comment>username_1: Your model isn't perfect. I took it into Windows 10 3D Builder for simplicity. I kept clicking the "Mirror" function and noticed as it basically flipped there is some slight movement. I measured some points from bottom to top and noticed some differences. Try to take your model into some software to fix/flatten it. Or recreate it making sure its perfectly flat on both sides. It is definitely not your Cura software. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Even though you've selected an answer, here's another viewpoint. Ignoring the brim that I've added by default via my slicer, you can see the first few layers are not complete. This indicates a model that's a fraction of a degree off-plane. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VRCT.jpg) Any number of methods can be used to correct this. Meshmixer has a great "align" function in the edit menu which will drop it on the bed. My slicer, S3D will work in that respect with "Place surface on bed" or some such terms. The image below represents the result of using Align in Meshmixer, Inspector (repair all) and export. The STL file imported to S3D presented exactly the same image on the first layer as in the image above. When I used "Place surface on bed and selected the horizontal cross-member as the reference surface, the first layer result is this: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/goSvf.png) The slicer completed the imaging with this result, clearly with no diagonal artifacts: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kAlU3.png) Upvotes: 1

2017/10/25

<issue_start>username_0: I have built a 3D printer from salvaged/purchased parts. I am using an Arduino Uno and three easy driver stepper drivers with 3 CD-ROMs drives and a PC power unit. I ordered a 3D pen and have it mounted with a transistor to switch it on/off. Everything works but when I try to run code that I got from makercam.com it seems like it wants to fill in the shape rather than build up. I followed this tutorial [YouTube - How To Make A Cheap 3D Printer](https://youtu.be/anIy6eb1fW0) and after modifying the G-code I am unable to get any successful prints. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LgHI1.jpg "Bad prints")<issue_comment>username_1: Download an stl file from Thingiverse.com Put your .stl file in a slicer program like cura It will output gcode for 3d objects rather than 2d. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I would typically shy away from downloading gcode and printing it directly. Always slice it yourself since, inevitably, every printer is different. What happens if the gcode is setup for ABS (higher temps) and you are printing with PLA? If it's setup for a build platform larger than yours and you just hit endstops? Definitely go with Aaron's idea, download a model (Thingiverse is great, but there are SO many sites where you can get files), configure a slicer for your print settings (I prefer slic3r to Cura, but both are great), slice it and print away. Upvotes: 2

2017/10/26

<issue_start>username_0: Is there any software/methods to automatically splice objects into multiple pieces sort of like a jig saw puzzle so that I can combine them together and bypass the build plate size limit? As an example I have this 2D image that I want to print out but my printers size limit is roughly the size of the blue "squares." It's pretty tedious and time consuming to do this manually. Also, any tips on getting seamless lines or proper alignment when gluing these pieces together are appreciated. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uw7Kg.png)<issue_comment>username_1: From what I understand, you're trying to partition your object into smaller pieces with the hopes of putting them back together in a manner similar to a Jigsaw puzzle. There are two options that I know of to do this, which requires using OpenSCAD: * The [PuzzleCut](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35834) library - This allows you to disassemble your object into a multiple pieces that can be assembled together in a jigsaw puzzle type manner * The [PinCut](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:310652) library - This allows you to disassemble your objects into multiple pieces that than be reassembled using the pins and corresponding holes on the pieces. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Sorry to put it that way, but does 3D printing the best "tool" for your case? it seems you want to generate a huge flat file when a CnC would be the best to generate a clean and solid part. Otherwise, as others suggets you are looking for a tooling tool. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: * You mentioned youre using Fusion 360; if so, you could just [split your final body](https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/simplecontent/content/how-to-split-solid-two-bodies.html) or component into separate bodies. Then you could export each body separately. * Slic3r and Slic3r PE both have the **Cut** command, but unfortunately it only will cut on the XY plane. * If you are on Windows 10, 3D Builder has a good tool for splitting STL files. + Open your STL in 3D Builder + Use the **Edit** > **Split** command + Adjust the plane to where you want the object cut + Select **Keep both** and click **✓ Split** + Note that you can't export individual objects; you must copy each object into a new 3D Builder window to save it separately. * Meshmixer is an excellent tool to learn overall but has a learning curve. Upvotes: 1

2017/10/28

<issue_start>username_0: I have a 3D printer that I built using CD-ROM drives. It's all set and ready to go but when I generate `.stl` or `.obj` files my G-code sender program cannot load it. I have found that Slic3r will export the `.stl` into G-code but it has the option of changing the *G-code flavour*, or *firmware*. My machine is running from an Arduino Uno with Grbl v0.8. So the question is, which firmware setting would be appropriate for my machine that would require the least amount of editing before I can print?<issue_comment>username_1: From what I understand, you're trying to partition your object into smaller pieces with the hopes of putting them back together in a manner similar to a Jigsaw puzzle. There are two options that I know of to do this, which requires using OpenSCAD: * The [PuzzleCut](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35834) library - This allows you to disassemble your object into a multiple pieces that can be assembled together in a jigsaw puzzle type manner * The [PinCut](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:310652) library - This allows you to disassemble your objects into multiple pieces that than be reassembled using the pins and corresponding holes on the pieces. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Sorry to put it that way, but does 3D printing the best "tool" for your case? it seems you want to generate a huge flat file when a CnC would be the best to generate a clean and solid part. Otherwise, as others suggets you are looking for a tooling tool. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: * You mentioned youre using Fusion 360; if so, you could just [split your final body](https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/simplecontent/content/how-to-split-solid-two-bodies.html) or component into separate bodies. Then you could export each body separately. * Slic3r and Slic3r PE both have the **Cut** command, but unfortunately it only will cut on the XY plane. * If you are on Windows 10, 3D Builder has a good tool for splitting STL files. + Open your STL in 3D Builder + Use the **Edit** > **Split** command + Adjust the plane to where you want the object cut + Select **Keep both** and click **✓ Split** + Note that you can't export individual objects; you must copy each object into a new 3D Builder window to save it separately. * Meshmixer is an excellent tool to learn overall but has a learning curve. Upvotes: 1

2017/10/28

<issue_start>username_0: I've successfully installed `mjpg-streamer-experimental` from [jacksonliam](https://github.com/jacksonliam)/[**mjpg-streamer**](https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer). I just can't figure out how to set the parameter I need in order to rotate my camera 180 degrees (I have my webcam mounted upside down for a custom mount I made). I'm using a Logitech C270. I've been searching online for hours for a solution to this issue and just can't find what I'm looking for. Doesn't help that I'm not very proficient when it comes to this stuff. --- If I run the command suggested in GiF's [answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/4823/4762): ``` mjpg_streamer -i 'input_uvc.so -rot 180' ``` I get the following error: ``` libv4l2: error setting pixformat: Device or resource busy Unable to set format: 1196444237 res: 640x480 Init v4L2 failed !! exit fatal i: init_VideoIn failed ``` I seem to get that error when setting any parameters. I'm running Octoprint, if that makes any difference. There doesn't seem to be a rotate option in Octoprint. Information just seems extremely sparse on this particular fork of mjpg-streamer. Searching for that error just gets me a bunch of people that have non-working webcams while mine works perfectly, I just need to rotate it 180 degrees. --- I would *really* appreciate some help!<issue_comment>username_1: **Edit: Having now installed Octopi myself, I have found that they made it easy to rotate the image right from the interface. If you open the "Settings" and look under "Webcam & Timelapse", there are settings for flipping the image horizontally or vertically and for rotating 90 degrees.** --- There are a few ways to rotate the image of which I am aware. You can do it via the input plugin, the client, or post-processing. The "input\_uvc" and "input\_raspicam" plugins both have options to rotate the image. If you are using one of these plugins see the documentation at [input\_uvc](https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer/blob/master/mjpg-streamer-experimental/plugins/input_uvc/README.md) or [input\_raspicam](https://github.com/jacksonliam/mjpg-streamer/blob/master/mjpg-streamer-experimental/plugins/input_raspicam/README.md) (it is worth noting that the input options may not be supported by all cameras). You should be able to run the command like the following to get a stream that is rotated 180 degrees: ``` mjpg_streamer -i 'input_uvc.so -rot 180' ``` I'm not sure how you are handling the stream, but it is possible that your client can perform the rotation. For example, if you are using VLC you can set the angle of rotation by doing something like this: * Open the “Tools” menu and select “Effects and Filters” * In the “Adjustments and Effects” window, on the “Video Effects” tab, select the “Transform” check box * Select a rotation from the dropdown menu and then click “Close”. Finally, if you are saving the stream and are only concerned with rotating it afterwards, you can post-process it with a utility like `ffmpeg`. See this [post](https://superuser.com/questions/578321/how-to-rotate-a-video-180-with-ffmpeg) as an example and look for "Rotate" in the accepted answer. If your stream is being rendered via a browser you may be able to add some CSS3 formatting to the video element. For example, you could add an ID of `videoElement` to the stream and then add the following to your CSS: ``` #videoElement { transform: rotateZ(180deg); -webkit-transform:rotateZ(180deg); /* Safari and Chrome */ -moz-transform:rotateZ(180deg); /* Firefox */ } ``` With respect to Octoprint, it appears that Octoprint is an HTML interface, so you could probably edit the markup to use CSS3's transform `rotateX`. That would rotate the image at the client end (browser). BTW, googling for your error code did have some potentially useful information as well. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: From the `help` for input plugin "**raspicam**", the following parameters can be passed to this plugin: ``` [-fps | --framerate]...: set video framerate, default 5 frame/sec [-x | --width ]........: width of frame capture, default 640 [-y | --height]........: height of frame capture, default 480 [-quality].............: set JPEG quality 0-100, default 85 [-usestills]...........: uses stills mode instead of video mode [-preview].............: Enable full screen preview [-timestamp]...........: Get timestamp for each frame ``` ``` -sh : Set image sharpness (-100 to 100) -co : Set image contrast (-100 to 100) -br : Set image brightness (0 to 100) -sa : Set image saturation (-100 to 100) -ISO : Set capture ISO -vs : Turn on video stablisation -ev : Set EV compensation -ex : Set exposure mode (see raspistill notes) -awb : Set AWB mode (see raspistill notes) -ifx : Set image effect (see raspistill notes) -cfx : Set colour effect (U:V) -mm : Set metering mode (see raspistill notes) -rot : Set image rotation (0-359) -stats : Compute image stats for each picture (reduces noise for -usestills) -drc : Dynamic range compensation level (see raspistill notes) -hf : Set horizontal flip -vf : Set vertical flip ``` The **-rot** parameter can rotate the image. Upvotes: 2

2017/10/29

<issue_start>username_0: I am writing some G-code for my DIY 3D printer. From what I understand, `G4` is dwell and its expressed in milliseconds. So my extruder takes about 30 seconds to heat up. Do I just type ``` G04 30000 ```<issue_comment>username_1: You are correct about needing to specify the dwell value in milliseconds. However, the RepRap Wiki indicates that you need to use the `Pn` argument, and not just an unadorned number as the argument to the command. To adapt the Wiki's own example, you will need to use: ``` G4 P30000 ``` This should cause the firmware to dwell (pause) for 30 seconds. [RepRap Wiki: G4: Dwell](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell) Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Depending on your G-code flavor you may be able to use [`M109`](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait) (heat and wait) instead. If supported M109 will wait until the target temperature is achieved. Upvotes: 2

2017/10/29

<issue_start>username_0: On the reprap wiki it says using Znnn it sets a new axis position. But then it says "No physical motion will occur". What would the line `G92 E0` be used for?<issue_comment>username_1: The `G92` command is used to set the start position (origin) of one of more axes (including the current extruder) to any arbitrary value. The command `G92 E0` is often used to perform retraction and nozzle priming. For example, the following commands are often used in start-gcode sequences (prologues) to prime the current extruder by extruding a small amount of filament: ``` G92 E0 ; Reset the extruder's origin G1 F200 E3 ; Extrude 3 millimetres of filament G92 E0 ; Reset the extruder's origin ``` [RepRap Wiki: G92: Set Position](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position) Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: To supplement the accepted answer, and answer a question in the answer's comments (which should not be there), consider the E value as another axis - the axis of the filament. If you executed: ``` G92 E0 ; Reset the extruder's origin G1 F200 E3 ; Extrude 3 millimetres of filament at a rate of 200 units per second ``` and then went on to printing, the first filament move would have to take you from E3 to whatever E value the next move specified. If the next move assumed starting at E0, you'd already be 3 mm further along, and the first move would probably be a retract, so for example, if the next printing move was: ``` G1 Xnnn Ynnn E0.5 ; Extrude 0.5 millimetres of filament ``` then **instead of extruding 0.5 mm, you would actually retract 2.5 mm**, to get from 3.0 to 0.5. Just like moving in a negative direction on any other axis. Upvotes: 3

2017/10/29

<issue_start>username_0: I recently got started in 3D printing but here's an issue I can't seem to find a solution for (I don't know what exactly to look for). Here's what I did: * I used InkScape to convert an emoji in to a svg and imported it in to Blender * Used the Solidify modifier to make the curve a solid and converted it in to a mesh * Extruded the mesh a bit, fixed a few non-manifold vertices and erroneous faces and saved the whole shebang as STL * Imported the STL in to my printers software:  * After slicing it looks like this:  Is the software making a mistake during the slicing? Or is my mesh screwed up? I have a FlashForge Finder and using the software that came with it: FlashPrint. Edit: I uploaded everything to [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2616300) for those who are interested.<issue_comment>username_1: This is likely not a problem with your mesh. It's a problem in the slicer software. Because your 3D printer prints with a (for example) 0.4mm nozzle, it lays down lines of plastic that are around (for example) 0.5mm wide. The slicer has to create a pattern, consisting of 0.5mm wide lines, that fills in your object. The gaps shown in your object are likely smaller than this, and thus can't be filled. I am not familiar with the flashforge software, but different slicers have different ways of dealing with this. Some offer a "gap fill" option that uses tricks to be able to fill in these very tiny gaps by rapidly moving the extruder back and forth over the gap. However, even then, it is sometimes unavoidable that tiny gaps remain. Some gaps are just too small to fill with the comparatively large nozzle. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: here is just a addenum to username_1's answer this is (an example of) what you may design - nice object with virtual outline, and virtual fill so this is what you see (and what you potentially expect) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/61gRm.png) but here is what you get (and probably not really expect) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5HdqS.png) red parts are the areas which are not covered by fill because nozzle cannot reach there solution is * to redesign your object in smart way or * to use smaller nozzle or * to use smarter app (like [Slic3r](http://slic3r.org/)) and of course you can use all 3 options together to get best results ;) **EDIT** here is simple explanation why smarter app could do the thing [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBrLW.png) and here goes the difference [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nNEN.png) green parts are new covered areas not much but somthing extra Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2017/10/30

<issue_start>username_0: I planning on getting a resin 3d printer kit, and I don't want to take any risks building it myself. Where, or who, could I hire a professional capable of constructing a 3D printer kit? They don't necessarily have to specialize in constructing 3d printers, I just need someone qualified with the mechanical and technical skills for the job.<issue_comment>username_1: If you have a makerspace in your area, you'll likely find individuals with reasonable mechanical skills suitable for simple kit assembly. Most kits are engineered to be reasonable assembly, not rocket surgery. Makers are by nature capable of construction, often from raw materials, and kits are typically not particularly challenging comparatively speaking. Resin 3D printers are also simple in construction, as the component count is less than that of an FDM printer, or quite close in count. SLA designs involve laser modules, mirrors and alignment, while DLP designs involve light projection and light masking. Both designs involve vats and movement mechanics. Even if you do not have a makerspace local to you, consider to contact one that might be nearer than farther away, as those spaces may have leads for you to locate a suitable victim/candidate. Our local library makerspace often farms out contacts to me or other makers with the necessary skills to meet a patron's requirements. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I agree that a local makerspace is a good option, but I will say this... Buying a kit and building it yourself, even with some frustration and learning curves, will help immensely with your ability to calibrate and troubleshoot issues later. If someone else builds it for you, chances are if something goes wrong, you'll need to seek out that person for help fixing things. I just recently bought my first 3D printer (FDM) as a kit. Building it was a slight learning curve - I'm a technophile and have built things with Arduino before, but never a printer and the specifics that come along with it. Getting it to actually print reliably took me about two weeks. However, I'm MUCH more confident now to take care of issues as they arise, and keep it running smoothly. The value of this experience can not be overstated. Upvotes: 0

2017/10/30

<issue_start>username_0: Materials used in space need to not outgas significantly An answer to this question: [Would 3d-printed objects outgas in vacuum?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/91/would-3d-printed-objects-outgas-in-vacuum?newreg=63cb72665132436c92ff1a842afac664) referred to the NASA outgassing database which showed that ABS, PET, and PLA filaments are all fairly low outgassing and suitable for space application. What I'm wondering is whether there are any 3D-printable plastics that are both suitable for space and also self-lubricating. Nylon is the obvious printable self-lubricating material, but I believe that it outgasses too much (I don't think NASA has tested nylon filament, at least I can't find it in the database). My primary interest is in hobbyist-grade, FDM printers but if there are materials that can be commercially 3D printed, that is also of interest. Any ideas?<issue_comment>username_1: If you have a makerspace in your area, you'll likely find individuals with reasonable mechanical skills suitable for simple kit assembly. Most kits are engineered to be reasonable assembly, not rocket surgery. Makers are by nature capable of construction, often from raw materials, and kits are typically not particularly challenging comparatively speaking. Resin 3D printers are also simple in construction, as the component count is less than that of an FDM printer, or quite close in count. SLA designs involve laser modules, mirrors and alignment, while DLP designs involve light projection and light masking. Both designs involve vats and movement mechanics. Even if you do not have a makerspace local to you, consider to contact one that might be nearer than farther away, as those spaces may have leads for you to locate a suitable victim/candidate. Our local library makerspace often farms out contacts to me or other makers with the necessary skills to meet a patron's requirements. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I agree that a local makerspace is a good option, but I will say this... Buying a kit and building it yourself, even with some frustration and learning curves, will help immensely with your ability to calibrate and troubleshoot issues later. If someone else builds it for you, chances are if something goes wrong, you'll need to seek out that person for help fixing things. I just recently bought my first 3D printer (FDM) as a kit. Building it was a slight learning curve - I'm a technophile and have built things with Arduino before, but never a printer and the specifics that come along with it. Getting it to actually print reliably took me about two weeks. However, I'm MUCH more confident now to take care of issues as they arise, and keep it running smoothly. The value of this experience can not be overstated. Upvotes: 0

2017/10/30

<issue_start>username_0: As 3D printers become more and more reliable, their prints get better and better. But FDM printers do have their problems too: you print tiny ovals that smooch together at the edges, and infill makes it awkward at times. So, how do I make a 3D-printed die fair (as in: not favoring one side too much)?<issue_comment>username_1: This is going to become a 3-step answer, as 3D Printing uses 3 different steps: *Design, Slicing & Material choice* before I elaborate alternate ways to some fair dice. Yet, we start with the material, as we need to know about it first. In this case it does impact everything from design to slicing and the print. Variant A: Printed perfect(?) ============================= Step 1: Know your material -------------------------- Let's face it: most materials used in Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) face an non-homogenous shrinking between XY plane and Z axis. But if you know these specific properties for your printer/filament/temperature combo, you can compensate for that. **Know your material** - you will need that for slicing. Run a test print of a 10x10x10 mm cube and measure - the offset of the 10mm on each axis is what you need to compensate for via your slicer. Step 2: Design fairly --------------------- ### Platonic bodies When designing your STL, try to **design as fair as you can**. Either indent the numbers as little as you can while maintaining readability, or, if you have a 2 color printer, fill the numbers with same density material but from the other color. Another thing to consider: indent the same surface area on each face of the body. That way you remove the same volume and thus same weight from each face, making it somewhat fair in the design, as the Center of Mass should be mostly in the center of the body now. ### Prism-"dice" A cylindrical (or rather: prism) design that is rolled over its "cylinder" surfaces might be the most easy to be designed fairly and be reasonably easy to slice, without having to resort to specialist slicing methods and tons of different compensations to keep in mind or having to assemble the object after print. It might be made with or without a "fall over" cone/elipsoid shape at both ends. Or it might be made like a dreidl, having only one conical/elipsoid tip for easy printing, possibly even havign the 'stem' printed as a different object and then assembled after print. Step 3: Slicing --------------- Now, there is a pretty fair design... but what settings to use when printing it?! Infill will make it wonky, so there are 2 options: solid (100% infill) and fully hollow (0% infill). Solid is easier to print and heavier. Hollow saves (depending on surface sides) 95% or more of the material in contrast to solid but can fall victim to sagging flat surfaces or wall thickness being not the same as flat area thickness. Now, after we chose the infill settings, we need to choose some other things. We want to print fairly delicate stuff, so we should use a smaller layer height than normally (0.05 mm, for example), and better a smaller nozzle - 0.2 mm or even less, if available. This again means, calibrating the printer/material combo for these two settings (XY / Z shrinking). After calibration, finally print! The dice should be pretty ok in fairness with that, but they are still not totally fair... Extra-step: Postprocessing -------------------------- You might make a test for bias by floating it on a salt water layer under tap water... if you managed to get it solid enough to reduce the air inside it to make it sink between these layers. That way you can slightly sand the heavier side until it is unbiased. If you manage to print somewhat fair and hollow, you might consider filling the cavity with some kind of resin (for example epoxy) to give the objects a bit of weight. This has some caveats on its own though: you'll have to leave a filling hole and you'll have to coat the inside equally or refill it several times to ensure a complete fill as most resins shrink when curing. Also, most resins heat up in curing, though usually not to the degree it melts FDM. As you work with resin, **Wear gloves** as it is aggressive to skin! BUT! 3D printink can do more! Variant B: Printed Perfection ============================= FDM is home printer stuff, but maybe you have access to something more... industrial. They are tricky in their own way, and you better know what you do with them. **SLS (solid laser sintering)** You just need to know your material shrinking coefficients in that case... and no, you don't need to think about infill, you only can do solid, 100% filled objects this way. But you will also have virtually no air in your print. Having SLS at home is rare though. This is however likely what you get when you order printed... but remember: the SLS powder is highly hygroscopic and will need to be sealed. Also, it does turn yellowish over time if it starts white. Using reused powder to a large degree degrades print quality also. And *never* look into the working machine. **DLMS (Direct Laser Metal Smelting)** is quite new and pretty much the metal variant of SLS. If you make your dice in that way and get them almost indistinguishable from cast metal. Polish the surfaces a little, don't sniff the breath the powder and don't look into the laser. **DLP/SLA (Direct Light Processing/Stereo Lithography)** Printing the thing from curing resin actually is pretty much close to SLS, but it has some resemblence to FDM in parts... biggest benefit: you can make very delicate details, and your layer heights get really thin - and you have a huge array of colors to choose from. But you have to take in mind, that you might want to either make the dice solid or design them with a hole in each of the sides or corners to allow surplus resin to flow out. You get perfect surfaces and can reuse the resin for quite a bitdepending on printer and storeage, but remember: SLA is a stinky thing, never look into the printing machine & the resins are very agressive to skin, so *use gloves* when working with the printing and the print until properly cleaned. Variant C: Lost Print ===================== But wait, what if you don't actually print the dice but just print a positive of the dice and then make a negative mold from that? Yes, that can be done. You know lost wax casting? There you go. Here's your step by step: * Print your dice. + maybe even puzzle the positive together from several faces printed all in the same orientation for maximum equality in the print. * Add a casting inlet and air outlet to the print. * cast the positive in either a clay material or gypsum. Allow it to dry/set. * Burn/melt out the positive, you get a hot and empty negative form. * cast in liquid metal or a resin * break mold, remove the inlets, polish some and... voila! If you are good at green sand casting, you might use that instead of lost wax casting - and reuse the positive for a second casting. Or, if you are good, you can make two-part molds that are reuseable. Variant 3b: mold it! -------------------- If we can print a positive and make a mold from that, we might as well print a mold directly. We can just cast in "cold" materials then, but if you have something that can be cast that way (some resins or wax) you can make either the dice or casting sprues for lost wax casting that way. Designing here will be different on the last steps though: after doing your wanted object, use this as a "tool" to cut out from a more or less square block that surrounds it. cut out the inlet/outlet for material and air from the block. Then cut up to your liking, if you want a reusable multi-part mold. You might want to add a roove to add wire or a rubber band around the print to keep the mold together while casting. Or we go industrial with that model, grab a CNC and make the mold halves that way and give up on printing the dice... tl;dr: ====== Know your printer, know your material, design for your printer's requirements, design fairly, maybe avoid printing the actual dice but print a positive to be molded and cast or print a mold. Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Honestly, I wouldn't. --------------------- You can find dice templates at places like [thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/), but with my (admittedly limited) experience of affordable 3D printers, I would be highly skeptical that the machine tolerances are up to snuff for producing a fair die. See this [discussion](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3605/will-3d-printed-dice-be-fair) from the 3d printing exchange, especially these [two](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3640) [answers](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3606). If you're really bound and determined to do this (we all have our geeky little passion projects!) I'd advise trying to find a template which the authors claim to have tested with chi-square, then find out what (type of) device they used. If you can replicate that, go for it... and then do the chi-square test yourself. It's ridiculously easy to set something up wrong, or forget something (like the possible effects of internal orientation.) Upvotes: 2

2017/10/31

<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to modify this [thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2516525). It's prints OK, but there are some design choices I don't like, so, since the previous makers uploaded their source files, I tried my hand at Sketchup. My latest round of changes have produced a weird phenomenon, and I'm not sure how to describe it. The slicer sees the GCODE as I intend, but for some reason the printer is printing something different than what the slicer is showing me. I am primarily concerned with the top of this case, but the base does not have the additional screw holes I made, so the phenomenon, whatever it is, is not limited to a single part. * Sketchup v17.2.25555 * Cura v3.0.3 * OctoPi/OctoPrint 1.2.7 * PrintrBot LC custom * Grey Inland PLA+ @~180C, bed @~60C (my temps are higher than the software thinks they are, so I have to put the temp lower in the software) You can see the parts in Sketchup: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FCSH7.jpg) The corner on the left was giving me no end of trouble! I left it with a messed up hole because I could more easily clean it up with a drill bit than spend another few hours futzing with that corner. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ay0V.jpg) This is in Cura, after I have sliced it. Looks fine to me! There is a bit of red in that problematic corner, but I only noticed that after the print came out weird. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5RYPm.jpg) This is the output of the printer. Notice how the edge near the GPIO pins is shorter than the rest, and how the hole is inverted into a protrusion. This is the opposite of what I want, and the opposite of what I see in the other softwares. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYrkP.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRpAo.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Looks like you are over extruding. check out this visual guide for example (I like it a lot): <http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide> For the protruding thingy, it seems (as the other hole is filled up with over extruded filament, it seems) that it's the "hole" printed. For the rest of the "wall" where that hole should have been, it seems it was just not printed. What size is it (if too thin, the slicer might just discard it, doesn't seems like it but you didn't tell nozzle size etc). I don't know, but I think you should start with calibrating your machine first so that you actually *can* print small holes like that. For the missing wall, what does the slice result look like? Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: first issue =========== bed inclination. it has to be heavy issue :) if you have any other printouts then please reveal them so we could see if it's the problem next issue ========== inversion of hole into solid object i would say it's caused by wrong calculation of [normal vector](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Normal_(geometry)) to some face(s) algorithm uses normal to calculates what is "inside" and what is not it's hard to say if it's an issue of * object itself * application in which you modify it (even if duplicating or joining with other objects) * slicer engine to fix the issue, you can try edit your object (recreate this hole) but first - definitelly i'd align your bed properly ;) **EDIT** after closer look i bet it's the issue of bad object. it looks like pointed line is kinda remnant of some operations made on object in the past in other words - it's possible place where normals are reverted and doesn't "create" inside but outside all above this line is reverted. **part of body disappeared and part of hole appeared** this is the issue for sure! [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QupM7.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTVh2.png) Upvotes: 2

2017/10/31

<issue_start>username_0: **Disclaimer:** I am not a professional 3D printer, so I'm not really familiar with how 3D printing works. I was thinking about trying to make a real life model of the atomic orbitals, to clearly see how the orbitals are really shaped. I thought about trying to 3D print a block, made up of colored transparent "ink", in such a way that the darkness of the color at a point in the block should be proportional to the ψ2 value (probability of the electron cloud). This would print a block in which high density areas are darker than light intensity areas. My question is, would it be possible to design an algorithm to print a specific darkness of ink at a specific location based on the computed value of ψ2, which is obtained by solving Schrödinger's Equation. Also, would it be possible to have this fullfilled at a reasonable price to be afforded by a regular customer, such as an engineering employee?<issue_comment>username_1: **problem definition** I'm not quite sure if it's really question for this group. Looks like the problem itself is more for programming or physics group. Having requested calculations (electron cloud shape) resolved, there will be something to print but... **printing probability cloud** at first, please take a look for example [here](http://3dprintingfromscratch.com/common/types-of-3d-printers-or-3d-printing-technologies-overview/) it's a review of 3d printing technologies. i think you should have clear picture if your idea is feasible or not. IMO it's not with todays technologies. in general (and deadly simlified) we have 3 main printing technics * out of solid (or semi-solid) filaments - can be colorful and semi-transparent but it's not homogenous in terms of your needs * out of solid powders - can be colorful but it cannot be transparent * out of liquids - can be really transparent and color but unfortunately not colorful i'd say rendering but not printing is what you really need Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As <NAME> mentioned, your best bet would likely be to explore subsurface laser engraving which makes little bubbles inside acrylic to make it translucent (frosted) on the inside in certain places. However, it is expensive, it has no colors, and the resolution isn't usually great (it may look speckled on the edges instead of having a smooth gradient from clear to whitish). A better option might be to 3d print a probability map of a 2D image an orbital cloud where height corresponds to probability rather than color. (So it will look like a hill or group of hills) This would only run you a few dollars. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I suggest you look into Polysher: <http://www.polymaker.com/shop/polysmoothpolysher/> and e3D cyclops extruder <https://e3d-online.com/Cyclops> you can make gradients of color. But there might even be a smarter way to do alpha transparency than 100% infill with a transparent material: 1) making a lattice of opaque material nodes (where bigger or closer together nodes mean more probability), and using air as the transparent medium 2) dunking the 1) in resin 3) making the afore-mentioned lattice with a partially transparent material and dunking it in a resin of the same refractive index as the transparent material. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: 3d printing a gradient like that will take: 1) A program capable of graphing color into your 3D model 2) A 3D printer capable of printing multiple colors (multi nozzle 3D printers) 3) Some way to convert that density function to a change in color. There are certain types of files called .3mf files that can hold different color information- but I thinking relating the electron density to a change in color may be rather difficult (if possible at all). I think a better bet is to go with the 3D probability map of a 2D Image, as suggested by username_2. I have come across a neat little project that is half of what you are looking for. These are mathematically accurate, 3D printed atomic orbitals (graphed with their Schrodinger Equations). Link Here: <https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.jchemed.6b00293> Upvotes: 2

2017/10/31

<issue_start>username_0: I currently have a print job that is about 50% done, been running for 2 hours with 2 hours remaining. One side is curling/warping pretty bad, and I'm afraid there's no possible way this is going to finish without serious problems if I don't intervene. So what I'm doing is either brilliant or idiotic, I'm not sure which: I've paused the print job, stuck some elmers glue below the curling part (with toothpicks, careful not to budge anything else), added a couple degrees to the heatbed (for pliability hopefully), put a small book on top of it to smash it on the glue and let it rest for a little bit (I'll report back if this was a horrible idea or not). **So my main quesiton:** Is there any other techniques that you folks can recommend for a scenario like this? McGuyver'y techniques to repair your in-progress print jobs? Has anyone tried this technique I'm attempting and if so how successful was it? In case it matters, I have an ANET A8 and generally send my print jobs to Octoprint (Raspi) from Cura with a Octoprint plugin (Windows). Printing with PLA filament. I've done quite a few successful prints recently, but this is the first one that goes from corner-to-corner on the heatbed ([this specifically](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2189694)). Printing at 207c with 60c heatbed (bumped up to 64 while glue settles). It's in a cooler room of the house, and doesn't have an enclosure so I'm afraid the cool temp is affecting it. Thanks Edit, last maybe significant (or maybe not) details: printing on glass with glue stick applied to it - been doing it for weeks and works quite well for the most part. Also, printing on a raft. Edit, here are a few pics. Both are from the back of the printer looking forward. I have one cam almost exactly level with the glass so I can see the hot-end extrude filament and another one slightly above it. Sorry for the bad lighting. Also included screenshots of my slicer settings for this print. Btw, I've since resumed printing after glueing it down, so far so good - but as you can see in the first pic it may have some possible structural defects and still has a slight curl: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2sxA.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YhXj.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KhMjG.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVyqz.png)<issue_comment>username_1: More glue to hold it down and lower in-fill percentage will reduce the warping. Or adding more cut-outs to the design like you have further up the shaft. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Three thoughts: 1. bed temperature 2. rim width 3. bonding agent Bed Temperature: Often the edges of a heated bed are not as hot as the center. Making the heat pass through an insulator (the glass) makes the temperature profile on the corners more relatively cool compared to the center than if you were printing directly on the aluminum bed. To offset that, you could: 1. Increase the overall heated bed temperature. 2. Wrap some insulation (such as ceramic felt) around the edge, keeping it out of the way of the print. 3. Add insulation to the underside corners of the bed, to reduce heat loss. Rim Thickness: I see that you are using a rim. Since the rim was also pulling up, rather than the print pulling out of the rim, you might benefit from making the rim broader. Bonding Agent: It looks as if you are printing on blue tape, but that might be the picture. IME, gluestick and blue tape aren't often used together. If you are using only blue tape, the condition of the tape is critical. Any grease or rubbing of the tape (such as by resting your hand on the bed when making other prints) can reduce the holding power. If you haven't tried it yet, you might try printing PLA with the PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) gluestick. I use the "purple until dry" Elmers gluesticks with good results. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Putting a large brim on it can help, I've seen people rescue prints with larger brims by literally adding weights to the brim around the areas that are peeling up. I've done it by taping brim edges down carefully as the print goes. Upvotes: 2

2017/11/03

<issue_start>username_0: I've seen several Q&As on recycling and reusing plastic from failed prints, but what have you done with the last few meters of filament? I've been keeping the ends of PLA (or sections I needed to cut) to maybe use for friction welding pieces together, but I only need so much for that. I've considered just shoving the last bit in the tube and using a new roll to push it through (so long as retractions aren't necessary). This is especially a concern for more exotic filaments where friction welding isn't useful and the price is higher for that 1m section (something like Copperfill). Note: I have a Bowden extruder. I imagine this is less of an issue with DD extruders.<issue_comment>username_1: * Weld the fragment to the beginning of a new spool and use it that way. [Most are made from metal](http://www.i3dinno.com/easywelder-p186486.html) so they aren't that easy to make at home. Here is another [answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1345/how-to-connect-filament-end-to-end) that lists other methods to weld filament including using heat shrink tubing. * As you mentioned, you can use it for friction welding. * Use it for pin/studs/rivets/hinges in prints. * Throw it away. 1.75mm \* 1Kg is about 330m of filament, 3mm \* 1Kg is about 110m of filament. The leftover isn't worth much when you consider how much is on a spool. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The welding option is only appropriate if you have the tool needed for it, the lighter welding is really hard to do and if your printer allows it you could just watch for the moment the spool runs out and push the new filament as the last of the previous one gets extruded, that's what I used to do on my bowden extruder reprap and apart from a really negligible retraction problem on one layer it just works Or you could go the cool way: * Use the last of the filament for friction/iron welding to fix or glue 3D printed parts together * Use it as regular filament with a 3D printer pen to fix 3D printed parts * "Use it for pin/studs/rivets/hinges in prints." as username_1 said * Stock it with your failed/ waste 3D printed parts and use them in a recyclebot later to make new filament or simply melt it in an oven to make plastic boards/injection molding material * Throw it away but that would be a waste over time Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2017/11/03

<issue_start>username_0: I have made a custom 3D printer with RAMPS electronics. I have printed a Benchy (ship) well, but when I try to print anything with teeth (spiral vase), gears (bearing), or a circle (rocket), the Y-axis skip steps in a regular rate giving 70-60 degrees skew along the printing the Y-direction, but each layer is perfect, this happen when printing [gear bearing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451). * I have checked Y-axis ball bearing, motor, tension belt and I have replaced my 6 mm glass with 1 mm without any difference in shift. * I have once make it work, but I don't why or how (I have lowered speed to 50 and did some random things). * I have printed from Pronterface and when I pause it, then home Y, the skipping in Y is corrected. * If I drive my X/Y-axis with no microstepping, then the skipping is much larger. * I only use Slic3r for G-code generation. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uNGn5.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kFu7S.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uu8zT.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c7g52.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0G0dq.jpg) question: * What is the cause for that skipping? * If there is more than one possibility, how could I check them separately? * I have changed my Y-axis motor with no change. * I have swapped X&Y connections with no change - still Y skips. * I have lowered jerk and max. speed and it prints gear bearing well and it is spinning, but when I tried to print spiral vase Y motor skipped.<issue_comment>username_1: * Weld the fragment to the beginning of a new spool and use it that way. [Most are made from metal](http://www.i3dinno.com/easywelder-p186486.html) so they aren't that easy to make at home. Here is another [answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1345/how-to-connect-filament-end-to-end) that lists other methods to weld filament including using heat shrink tubing. * As you mentioned, you can use it for friction welding. * Use it for pin/studs/rivets/hinges in prints. * Throw it away. 1.75mm \* 1Kg is about 330m of filament, 3mm \* 1Kg is about 110m of filament. The leftover isn't worth much when you consider how much is on a spool. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The welding option is only appropriate if you have the tool needed for it, the lighter welding is really hard to do and if your printer allows it you could just watch for the moment the spool runs out and push the new filament as the last of the previous one gets extruded, that's what I used to do on my bowden extruder reprap and apart from a really negligible retraction problem on one layer it just works Or you could go the cool way: * Use the last of the filament for friction/iron welding to fix or glue 3D printed parts together * Use it as regular filament with a 3D printer pen to fix 3D printed parts * "Use it for pin/studs/rivets/hinges in prints." as username_1 said * Stock it with your failed/ waste 3D printed parts and use them in a recyclebot later to make new filament or simply melt it in an oven to make plastic boards/injection molding material * Throw it away but that would be a waste over time Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2017/11/04

<issue_start>username_0: I am working on g code for my homebrew 3d printer and i have found the line `G1 -2.000 F2400.000`. From what i understand there should be an axis before the number and x and y shouldnt have negative. I am using grbl which is for cnc milling but and i have been deleting this line with no problems but i am wondering what it does because i will be upgrading to a "real" 3d printer asap<issue_comment>username_1: G1 indicates a movement and -2.000 the distance, F2400.000 the feed rate mm/min, normally the **(-)** values are for retraction on extrusion **E**, for example: G0 X12 (move to 12mm on the X axis) G0 F1500 (Set the feedrate to 1500mm/minute) G1 X90.6 Y13.8 E22.4 (Move to 90.6mm on the X axis and 13.8mm on the Y axis while extruding 22.4mm of material) ``` 1. G1 F1500 2. G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 ``` In the above example, we set the feedrate to 1500mm/minute on line 1, then move to 50mm on the X axis and 25.3mm on the Y axis while extruding 22.4mm of filament between the two points. ``` 1. G1 F1500 2. G1 X50 Y25.3 E22.4 F3000 ``` However, in the above example, we set a **feedrate of 1500 mm/minute** on **line 1**, then do the move described above ***accelerating to a feedrate of 3000 mm/minute*** as it does so. The extrusion will accelerate along with the X and Y movement, so everything stays synchronized. ***So, in your case if some axis is not defined the feed rate applies to all motors.*** *(part of this content is from reprap-wiki)* You will see negative numbers if your starting point is on the center of the bed just like rectangular coordinates. ``` G1 X-50.318 Y8.849 E11.70313 G1 X-52.606 Y3.087 E12.26689 G1 X-53.240 Y1.297 E12.43953 G1 X-54.398 Y-2.097 E12.76562 G1 X-54.683 Y-2.995 E12.85132 ``` Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: > > G1 -2.000 F2400.000 > > > Is not valid G-code. As you note, `-2.000` should be prefixed with an axis (X,Y,Z or E). Marlin would ignore the `-2.000` bit and simply treat the command as equivalent to ``` G1 F2400.000 ``` which doesn't perform any movement, but sets the feedrate for any future moves to 2400mm/min. > > x and y shouldnt have negative > > > Not necessarily. Even though normally printing is done in the positive quadrant, negative values can be valid. Not only in relative movement mode, but even in absolute mode (for instance, if you set the center of your bed as (0,0) or if you use a negative z-axis offset the bring the nozzle closer to the bed). Upvotes: 2

2017/11/06

<issue_start>username_0: octoprint seems to have a setting that involves googles DNS server. my question is is that server used to access octoprint over the internet via printoid "android app" or via browser? if not then what does it mean? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MWTnq.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: The program is pinging that address to check the internet connection to "prevent resource intensive operations if it's already clear that they won't succeed anyhow". It checks for connectivity, if it has it then it will check for update otherwise it won't check for an update. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: That's just Google's DNS (name resolution) server. 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4 are the Google values. Your ISP will also have a DNS server that you could use, which is what it says to use Google's "if you don't know what to set here". Using the Google values are your best bet since they'll pretty much absolutely always be online and available. Upvotes: 0

2017/11/07

<issue_start>username_0: I have a Prusa i3 (from FLSun). I have assembled the printer, calibrated it (fairly decently), and have successfully demonstrated extrusion manually. However, when I try to run a print job (the G-code clearly contains E commands), the extruder motor never rotates. Is this a common problem? Any suggestsions for how to resolve/troubleshoot? I can confirm that the extruder was pre-heated for PLA (up to a generous 220 C). I load an STL file into Repetier v.1.0.2, use the built-in slicer (Slic3r) to generate the G-code. I include a sample of that below: ``` ; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2017-11-08 at 10:54:07 ; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.72mm ; infill extrusion width = 0.72mm ; solid infill extrusion width = 0.72mm ; top infill extrusion width = 0.72mm M107 M104 S200 ; set temperature G28 ; home all axes G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle M109 S200 ; wait for temperature to be reached G21 ; set units to millimeters G90 ; use absolute coordinates M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion G92 E0 G1 Z0.350 F7800.000 G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000 G92 E0 G1 X76.952 Y76.952 F7800.000 G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000 G1 X78.055 Y75.850 E2.04824 F1800.000 G1 X78.650 Y75.324 E2.07282 G1 X81.121 Y73.387 E2.16997 G1 X81.780 Y72.933 E2.19472 G1 X84.467 Y71.309 E2.29186 G1 X85.167 Y70.940 E2.31635 G1 X88.143 Y69.602 E2.41730 ``` As an update, I can no longer reliably get the extruder motor to run (even when I pre-heat) from the LCD. Sometimes, it works fine, but other times it doesn't seem to. Will confirm whether switching the motor connector to the z-axis to test the motor works when I get home this evening. I can confirm 1) that there is no tension pulling on the cable connections during the run, 2) the mainboard and motor connector aren't burned, cracked, and the mosfets have heatsinks on them, and 3) the extruder gear is fixed and rotates freely on the motor axis (I tested this by switching it over to the z-axis connection temporarily and confirming rotation). Here's a photo of my motherboard: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gRdQp.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: This should have been a comment: when you say "manual extrusion", do you mean moving filament by hand or using extruder position commands from printer menu? Is extruder motor working at all? You can for example plug it instead of a Z-motor to check. Suggested points to check: * Motor wire connections, both on extruder and mainboard. Are plugs experiencing tension (being tilted, pulled out) from improperly fixed cables? * Hardware on mainboard next to motor connector. Does it look burned, cracked, lacks heatsinks on mosfets? * Is extruder gear not fixed and rotating freely on extruder motor axis? You will hear sound of working motor, but it will look like it's not pulling the filament. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: According to all the information: * No reassignment of the extruder in the Gcode * You can extrude if you push the filament by hand * Extruder motor works when switched to Z driver * Z Motor works I come to the conclusion that some of your electronics or the motor have fried. What have fried? I tried to make a step by step check: Switch drivers between E and Z, but plug the motors as usual: 1) Does the extruder extrude? Yes: Your driver has fried No: 2) Were you able to move the Z motor? No: Motherboard And driver has fried Yes: 3) Plug in the E motor on the Z driver, can you make the E motor turn? Yes: Motherboard fried No: Motor fried HTH and keep us updated if it worked or not! Upvotes: 1

2017/11/08

<issue_start>username_0: I have .stl for the 3d printing. And I want to analysis wall thickness of this model before printing. I have no idea about any tools. Can I create any console or wpf app for calculating wall thickness and cost of the printing. Please help me.<issue_comment>username_1: If your talking about a hollow object, such as a cube with a hollow center. The wall thickness is determined by the model. If your talking about a solid object, the wall thickness is determined by your nozzle diameter multiplied by your # of walls. This is all adjusted by your splicing software. If you have a nozzle of 0.5mm and you print at 3 perimeters, your wall should be 1.5mm. If you want the wall to be 2mm, then you will adjust your perimeters to 4. Everything within those walls will be whatever you choose for infill. I work with ASP.NET, Windows Forms, and Console Apps myself. I'm sure you can find libraries capable of taking 3D models but I don't think it would matter because the printed thickness is determined by your splicing settings. Also for cost of printing, I recommend just using Cura which you just have to plug in some cost information about the filament and it will tell you estimated cost, mm of filament usage, and time. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If your concern is that the stl file may have walls that are too thin to print on your printer, [MeshMixer](https://www.meshmixer.com/) is a great tool from [Autodesk](https://www.autodesk.com) to help check and fix mesh issues (including wall thickness). It is free to Makers and Educators. There are lots of helpful tutorials Here is one <https://all3dp.com/meshmixer-tutorial/> Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I'm not completely sure what you want to do but I will add some information that I think will help and then hopefully you can figure out what you need to know or ask another question. When you are asking about wall thickness there are two different things you could be referring to. A wall in the model, so you could be talking about trying to print a thin wall coming out of the model. For analysis thin wall setting some slicers will change the extrusion amount to print thicker or thinner lines, and to find those settings you would need to look at the g-code. Or you could be talking about the shell of the model, the outside surface, and for this you could also analysis in the slicer settings by looking at the number of perimeters the slicer will try and print. For calculating the cost of the print you will want the amount of material used, this will also be in the g-code file. You can eather calculate this by going through each G1 command and finding out how much filament was extruded for each move the printer made. (Not some slicers reset this to zero after each layer and this gets tricky when the printer starts retracting the filament while traveling). Or most slicers have a commented out line of g-code at the beginning or end of the file listing how much filament will be used. If you do analysis the .stl file you also might find that you need to repair the model file as well, Because alot of .stl files are made for 3D graphics and not for printing and so they can have intersecting triangles and not be water tight. Not all .stl files are the same they can be text or binary files, this is some c# code that will read both formats into a list of the triangles in the file for you. ``` using System.Numerics.Vectors; void Main(){ var facets = readStl(@"C:\stls\teapot.stl");} public class facet { public Vector3 norm = new Vector3(); public Vector3 vecA = new Vector3(); public Vector3 vecB = new Vector3(); public Vector3 vecC = new Vector3(); public facet(Vector3 A, Vector3 B, Vector3 C, Vector3 N) { norm = N; vecA = A; vecB = B; vecC = C; } }/* facet */ public static System.Collections.Generic.List readStl(string file) { // check if binary or text fomat //Console.WriteLine("the middle"); bool isText; System.Collections.Generic.List facets = new System.Collections.Generic.List(); using (System.IO.BinaryReader reader = new System.IO.BinaryReader(System.IO.File.Open(file, System.IO.FileMode.Open))) { //Console.WriteLine("Checking if binary"); string fileHeading; fileHeading = new string(reader.ReadChars(80)); if (fileHeading.Contains(@"solid")) { isText = true; //Console.WriteLine("isText true"); } else { isText = false; //Console.WriteLine("isText false"); } if(!isText) { // process binary file Console.WriteLine("Is binary"); uint numberOfTriangles = reader.ReadUInt32(); //Debug.Log("Number of Triangles: " + numberOfTriangles.ToString()); System.Console.WriteLine("Number of Triangles: " + numberOfTriangles.ToString()); for(int i = 0; i < numberOfTriangles - 1; i++) { Vector3 normals = new Vector3(); Vector3 vecA = new Vector3(); Vector3 vecB = new Vector3(); Vector3 vecC = new Vector3(); System.UInt16 byteCount = new System.UInt16(); normals.X = reader.ReadSingle(); normals.Y = reader.ReadSingle(); normals.Z = reader.ReadSingle(); vecA.X = reader.ReadSingle(); vecA.Y = reader.ReadSingle(); vecA.Z = reader.ReadSingle(); vecB.X = reader.ReadSingle(); vecB.Y = reader.ReadSingle(); vecB.Z = reader.ReadSingle(); vecC.X = reader.ReadSingle(); vecC.Y = reader.ReadSingle(); vecC.Z = reader.ReadSingle(); byteCount = reader.ReadUInt16(); facets.Add(new facet(vecA, vecB, vecC, normals)); } } } if (isText) { // read text format file Console.WriteLine("Is text file"); //Console.WriteLine("reading text file"); using (System.IO.StreamReader reader = System.IO.File.OpenText(file)) { string line = @""; string fileHeader = @""; line = reader.ReadLine(); fileHeader = line.Substring(line.IndexOf("solid") + 5).Trim(); line = ""; System.Console.WriteLine(@"file header: " + fileHeader); bool endOfFile = true; while (endOfFile) { line = reader.ReadLine(); if (!reader.EndOfStream) { Vector3 normals = new Vector3(); Vector3 vecA = new Vector3(); Vector3 vecB = new Vector3(); Vector3 vecC = new Vector3(); string[] nums = line.Replace("facet", "").Replace("normal", "").Trim().Split(' '); normals.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(nums[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); normals.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(nums[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); normals.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(nums[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); line = ""; line = reader.ReadLine(); // outer loop line = reader.ReadLine(); // vertex string[] vecsA = line.Replace("vertex", "").Trim().Split(' '); vecA.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsA[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); vecA.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsA[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); vecA.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsA[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); line = ""; line = reader.ReadLine(); // vertex string[] vecsB = line.Replace("vertex", "").Trim().Split(' '); vecB.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsB[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); vecB.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsB[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); vecB.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsB[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); line = ""; line = reader.ReadLine(); // vertex string[] vecsC = line.Replace("vertex", "").Trim().Split(' '); vecC.X = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsC[0], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); vecC.Y = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsC[1], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); vecC.Z = (float)System.Double.Parse(vecsC[2], System.Globalization.NumberStyles.Float); line = ""; line = reader.ReadLine(); // endloop line = reader.ReadLine(); // endfacet facets.Add(new facet(vecA, vecB, vecC, normals)); } else { endOfFile = false; } }// while loop System.Console.WriteLine("finished reading file"); } } return facets; }/\* readStl \*/ ``` Upvotes: 1

2017/11/08

<issue_start>username_0: We need a 3D printer, that can print with plastic suitable for medical applications. We have about $5000 for the printer. What printers can we choose? I am not a specialist in 3D printing, so please answer in detail. We need to print breathing tubes with cuffs. The tubes should be flexible, but rigid enough in order not to collapse. The cuff material should be thin and collapsible, but very strong. Breathing tubes are inserted through the mouth and stay in contact with mucous membrane for many hours.<issue_comment>username_1: I am not an expert but I think you will find that because 3D printers use a layer by layer construction method, and the boundary between the layers creates grooves along the surface or leaves a rough texture on the surface. That the textured surface left by 3D printer construction would trap microbes and make 3D printed objects not suitable for medical applications where you need the product to be sterile. It might be possible to treat the printed object or post process it. By vapor smoothing or painting/coating, but I doing think this would work for flexible materials. If you are considering 3D printing because of the ability to customize the design, then I would suggest considering combining 3D printing with molding or casting. You could then use a cheap 3D printer to create the mold and use a flexible resin to create the object you want. I have heard of SLA 3D printing being used to create molds for casting fake teeth. There 3D printing is used to create a custom shape and the print is used to make a mold and the final product is cast using the mold to get the quality and finish needed. And I have head of FDM printing being used in used in remote areas to print clamps for umbilical cords. But I believe this was because not no other option was available. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Not in that price range ----------------------- 5000 USD might sound much, but it is far outside of the scope of an industrial 3D printer. You ask to print parts that are safe for implantation, so you need a machine that is allowed to produce medical implants. A machine that makes medical products needs to have them certified by the authorities. These demand strict tests on quality control and the materials allowed are specifically listed. Machines that could work with these materials in the quality demanded are expensive. For example I found with a quick search [a nice article](https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/12-things-we-can-3d-print-in-medicine-right-now-42867/): there are SLS printed bones out there - yet an industrial (certified) SLS printer costs several times the budget you have at hand. The same article suggested that 3D Bioprinting has had enough advancements recently to produce heart valves, but the product is undergoing medical tests still. So pretty much both of these examples (and most others on that site) are out of bounds for the finances at hand or are not approved for use on humans. There are some medical tool application that can be 3D Printed though: the mentioned umbilical cord clamps or other solid one-way articles like clamps or spreaders could be made safely from medical grade plastics, yet your chosen material and designed parts will need to undergo medical safety testing - and thus from prototyping to allowance to use it you will spend months or years waiting. This makes this over all much more expensive than using standard one-way baloon cuffed endotracheal tubes. These do contain one unprintable part even: the balloon. Non-implant/non-invasive medical aides like the prothetics of [enabling the future](http://enablingthefuture.org/upper-limb-prosthetics/) project are one of the safe applications for 3D printing in medicine at the time of this writing, and they are doable inside a 5000 USD budget. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Find another medical facility that is doing it, and ask what equipment and filament they use. They may also have a source for medical related models. I would expect medical stuff to be regulated by the FDA, so there are probably limitations on what you can get. Upvotes: 1

2017/11/09

<issue_start>username_0: If I have a 3D cylindrical extrusion (in Onshape), how can I scoop, carve, or indent a concave/parabolic curve in one of the ends? The yellow surface is the target. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/80wQB.jpg) Here is the basic shape I'm trying to bore out (like a satellite dish, parabolic antenna, or even a contact lens.. You get the idea). [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbthB.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: As is typical with many CAD type programs, a feature in Onshape known as revolve may be your solution. As you have a clear formula for the cross-section, half of the work is complete. You would generate a sketch representing the curve, then use the Revolve feature with the axis oriented to vertical. According to the [Onshape video](https://www.onshape.com/videos/revolve), you can generate a solid or a surface from the options that appear when selecting that feature. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HscXP.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YCvNK.png) As you can see in the images above, the axis selected in the tutorial video is horizontal. Other features of revolve are covered in the video. Your post suggests it will also be necessary to perform a subtraction action on the assembly in order to get the scoop/concave result. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There is no tool to create a parabola in a sketch in Onshape but you could use a 3 or 5 point spline to create a similar curve. If you knew exactly the curve you wanted you could create it with another cylinder but let's skip that for now and use a spline. Once you have the curve, add a line to close it until the geometry is shaded in light gray. I would try using the project command to select the smaller circular edge of your part. Now draw another line perpendicular to the first line, from the midpoint of the first line up to the curve. If you used a spline you can now use this second line to make the points of your spline symmetrical across that line so you can control your parabola-like curve. Once you're happy w/ your curve, select the split/trim command and delete the half of the curve and half of the first line until you have half the shape you want to cut out. Now complete the sketch. Now use the revolve tool, select the sketch, select the second line you drew as the axis, and make sure that "remove" is selected and that the original body is selected for merging. This will create the desired effect. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Create a midplane going through it, and then sketch half if a profile for what you want yo carve out on it that plane, and in the spot where you need it to carve out. Now revolve that profile around it's Central axis and this should cut wlthe piece you want out. Upvotes: 0

2017/11/09

<issue_start>username_0: I have built a 3D printer out of parts from my tip, a ramps board, arduino mega, and a hot end. However, after doing a test extrusion some plastic was spewed out and then the print jammed un-expectantly and my homemade extruder no longer had the strength to push the filament. I took the filament out and what I found was that the filament going into the extruder had formed a cylinder at the end. Then after pushing the filament through by hand to eliminate the possibility of my weak extruder, I found that the filament was expanding coming out of the filament, and then cooling down unable to go through. I cut the filament, removing the bloated end, pushed it back into the extruder and then again after 30 seconds the same problem occurred. After researching, I came to the conclusion that maybe there is a gap allowing filament to go out of the heating area, expand and then cool down, or even my wooden direct to bowden adapter is stopping the filament cooling causing it to clog. However I am not sure. I am becoming frustrated as I am doing this for a school project, I only have two weeks left to finish and everything seems to be failing. Any help would be much appreciated. For reference this is my hotend: [link to amazon](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B074DRLGW9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.) I brought the cheapest one available on amazon, so it has no fan and no way to connect a bowden tube. I have created a basic adapter between the thread and a bowden tube holder, out of wood. It's not good but it does the job. Here is a picture of my hot end and what the filament looks like after I removed it. There appears to be a spiral shape on some of them. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNKgu.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXpBG.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: You are suffering from what is called "heat creep". Molten filament is creeping up the heat break and into the bowden tube, where it is causing a jam. You need to install a proper radiator block that is cooled by a fan, not just a lump of wood as a "cold end". The cold end is not just a connector, its primary purpose is to act as a cooler. A hot end on its own is not enough. You also need a cold end. Here is my extruder disassembled (fan omitted). The radiator block is the red item. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngeW7.jpg) Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Hello it's seems that your hotend's barrel get's too hot when your ar printing, have you try to make a heat sink on the barrell, with some washers and nuts? That worked for me, like this[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmfpm.png) I Took that idea from this video <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvICpdVONXM> Also make sure that the hotend's aluminum block is properly insulated, you could do this with some Kapton Tape. Upvotes: 2

2017/11/10

<issue_start>username_0: My Y-axis on my Monoprice maker select running ramps 1.4 and Marlin makes a thud noise when moving every now and then. I have noticed a 1 to 2 mm shift in the print when this occurs. I tighten the belts and alas no joy. I ordered new bearings which should be coming Monday. I also tried slowing the print down and still get the same result. Anyone have any ideas.<issue_comment>username_1: A thudding noise is usually a belt slipping through its end-restraints. A clicking noise is usually a stepper motor missing a step. Seized bearings could be the cause. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The issue was the X-axis top smooth rod came out. this caused the extruder to bang around and shift on the Y-axis when it shifted forward. thank everyone for their help. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2017/11/11

<issue_start>username_0: Recently my printer has been creating double images along the X-axis, I just printed a calibration cube after checking all of my rods to make sure nothing was catching and here was my result: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vAqB6.jpg) It looks like there is another X to the right of the X that is supposed to be, would this be a retraction problem, or could it be a problem with the filament because I printed a calibration cube with another filament a couple of weeks ago and there was no double X.<issue_comment>username_1: I agree with @FernandoBaltazar. You have several things going on. If the problem is recent, you may have loose belts, but you may also need to perform acceleration and jerk tuning. Reducing your print speeds may also help. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: There are several problems, but lets start with a method for discovering them. The first thing to do is look for any looseness or slop in the mechanism. Try wiggling the hot end, looking for any free movement. Try moving along the axes that move. You haven't specified the machine, so I can't suggest the specific points to try moving. If the bed moves, try wiggling the bed. If the extruder moves, try wiggling the extruder on each movement axis. Nothing should move at all until the motors skip. If the mechanism is fully tight (and from this picture, I expect it to have some "wiggle room"), you could follow by slowing the machine, including reducing the acceleration settings. If you find something moving, you'll need to investigate why -- what is allowing the movement to happen. On a belt-driven machine, the belts can be loose, but one can also get movement from loose set screws, motor mounts, hot-ends which are coming apart, or loose thrust bearings or nuts on threaded shafts. Applying force to the parts that move during printing and watching for movement is the best diagnostic. In the future, when asking questions it can be helpful to include the type of machine, any modifications you've made, and information about the printing conditions. Upvotes: 1

2017/11/11

<issue_start>username_0: I want to print a object that looks like a flat board with a set of matchbox-like lumps on top of it. I have written a script that outputs an STL file. To keep the script simple, it creates an object that includes non-manifold edges. To be precise, the board and the boxes are a single model, but each has 6 faces made from 2 triangles. The underside of each matchbox rests on the top of the larger flat board. If I understand correctly, the top face of the board should be broken up into many smaller triangles to take into account the position of the matchboxes, but coding this by hand (although it might be an interesting Exercise For The Reader) would not be a good use of time. Well-written code that already does this is built into FOSS applications like Blender. However, Blender cannot merge or fuse shapes that are part of the same object. My current understanding is that I will need to: 1. Provide Blender with multiple objects 2. Select all the objects 3. Use Ctrl-J to merge them 4. Export the world in STL format Is this a valid approach? If so, my key question is: how do I format the STL file so that Blender will recognize that it contains multiple separate objects? (I have found references to STL files containing multiple objects, but I have seen nothing in any of the STL files that I have examined that tells me: here is the end of one object and the beginning of another.) Or should I just be clunky and export two STL files — one for the board and one for all the matchboxes — and then import both into Blender? --- NOTE: I know that there are free services like [Netfabb](https://service.netfabb.com/login.php) that will correct my simple files for me, but I would prefer not to include that in my workflow if possible.<issue_comment>username_1: I think there's an easier way to do this - *if* you're not committed to using Blender, and it sounds as if you're not. Take a look at <http://www.openscad.org/> (which should run anywhere that Blender does). It's very easy to write code to produce your desired shape (in this case it would be a union of cuboids) in OpenSCAD's description language, and then you can use OpenSCAD itself to render that to STL. (It's even possible to automate this from the command line.) Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Blender imports all STL files as if they are a single object. If you have multiple meshes in the object that you want to be separated, you can press tab to enter edit mode, select the parts that need to be separated, then hit P and separate by selected. If you want to print those pieces as one part you have to get rid of any internal faces. The easiest way to do that is to select an object and then use the boolean modifier in union mode. Once you have the object that you want to fuse selected and in place, apply the modifier, that should leave you with an object without internal faces. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Let's look at it... It's something like this: a closed box with protrusions that have no inner surface. like this cobbled together thing. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PDnW4.png) Let's just for fun export it as a .stl. yes, a single .stl file. And now open it in MeshMixer: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcYO4.png) Looks not half bad, right? But a red box? What shall that mean? look at the blender model again: Oh right, the normals on those surfaces are backwards! `W` `F` in blender flips the normals, reexport the .stl, reload into MeshMixer! [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7GQeP.png) Now we are talking! Let's look how we can fix this... `Edit > Make Solid` with a high `Solid Accuracy` with both a high `Solid Accuracy` and `Mesh Density` results in reasonable sharp corners and... DANG! One solid body, all neatly closed. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gWh6P.png) Now, test: Export (`ctrl+E`) and import into blender. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ttjmx.png) Yet, we got a problem: this thing that had been 11 faces and 16 vertices became almost 1.2 million vertices and 2.4 million faces. This surely can be condensed some, but we just achieved a well printable merge of the objects. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jzxam.png) Upvotes: 0

2017/11/12

<issue_start>username_0: I have a PrusaI3(Chinese kit that I assembled myself). my strange problem is that: when I try to leveling the bed, upper-left and bottom-right corners of the bed, are more far than the nozzle, respect to upper-right and bottom-left. I don't know why, but I can't level them with the screws(because upper-left and bottom-right screws goes to be free sooner than their opposite side screws!!). I thought maybe the heated bed is not flat but I use a glass upon it! and it's not possible both of them are not flat! EDIT: I can remember the last time I used my printer, there was a knocking sound when Y-AXIS was moving about the half of it's way. I very tried to find the cause of knocking sound but I couldn't. now, I have opened the heating bed and there is no sound when I move Y-Axis by hand. I hope you can understand me and help me too! EDIT2: I did measure the rods and bed corners, I found that this corner(pointed by finger) is about 2 millimeters lower than other 3 corners! (It seems the bed part is not flat). [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sGjix.jpg) How can I fix this?<issue_comment>username_1: The Prusha I3 design uses two rods to guide the Y axis, which moves along the rods on linear bearings. If the rods are not strictly planar, there will be movement of the bed as it moves to and fro. You would not be able to correct this with the leveling screws. Be sure that the rods are planar, and that there is no torque on the bed from uneven rods. Even if the bed doesn't flex, the frame may flex if the rods are not planar. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: How did you measure the bed corners (caliper, ruler, spirit-level)? I had a similar problem in my 3d printer (Geetech Prusa REpRap I3) I solved by using an indicator (distance amplifying instrument). what I did was to set-up my heating bed completely, with the glass, screws with spacers, springs. I had fix on the z-axis my indicator set to 0, and I started moving the printer with small increments to each corner of the bed, slowing adjusting each corner screw to keep my bed on level. It is a very dull and time consuming process, but, now I have an offset from one corner to the other of just 30 µm. Keep in mind that during a normal printing, the heating bed due to thermal expansion may increase the deviation of your calibration step. If you have any doubts do not hesitate to ask! Cheers Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I could solve my problem by this strange system for both opposite sides but I couldn't find the really reson of this problem!: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XD2W8.jpg) Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]

2017/11/13

<issue_start>username_0: I want to paint my ABS parts. But I foresee a problem that will arise from 0.16mm layer - those layers will be perfectly visible, even with primer. Sanding them wouldn't be a good idea, because walls are just 0.8-1mm thick, and probably acetone bath isn't right thing too. I want to use some sort of cement or paste, and cover parts with it using some paint scraper or knife before painting. Do cements suitable for this task exist? Would they stick to ABS?<issue_comment>username_1: The Prusha I3 design uses two rods to guide the Y axis, which moves along the rods on linear bearings. If the rods are not strictly planar, there will be movement of the bed as it moves to and fro. You would not be able to correct this with the leveling screws. Be sure that the rods are planar, and that there is no torque on the bed from uneven rods. Even if the bed doesn't flex, the frame may flex if the rods are not planar. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: How did you measure the bed corners (caliper, ruler, spirit-level)? I had a similar problem in my 3d printer (Geetech Prusa REpRap I3) I solved by using an indicator (distance amplifying instrument). what I did was to set-up my heating bed completely, with the glass, screws with spacers, springs. I had fix on the z-axis my indicator set to 0, and I started moving the printer with small increments to each corner of the bed, slowing adjusting each corner screw to keep my bed on level. It is a very dull and time consuming process, but, now I have an offset from one corner to the other of just 30 µm. Keep in mind that during a normal printing, the heating bed due to thermal expansion may increase the deviation of your calibration step. If you have any doubts do not hesitate to ask! Cheers Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I could solve my problem by this strange system for both opposite sides but I couldn't find the really reson of this problem!: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XD2W8.jpg) Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]

2017/11/14

<issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to print a large piece with polycarbonate but it keeps warping, I'm using a Taz 5 printer and setting 290 C in the extruder and 145 C in the heating bed. Other setting I have are: 1. printing speed: 20 mm/s 2. layer height: 2.5mm 3. infil: 20% 4. brim: 15mm Can anyone tell me any tips or suggestions to avoid warping?<issue_comment>username_1: I would take a look [here](http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate) and [here](https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-polycarbonate-filament). Literally the first two results of Google. To summarize what they say, You need good bed adhesion to keep the first layer from warping near the edges like you will get normally with ABS or PC(Polycarbonate). Some use hairspray or gluestick. I manage myself with buildtak surface. I would stay away from blue painters tape. Your looking for something very sticky. This of course makes it a nightmare to get the part off the bed but well worth the trouble if it keeps your print on the bed and flat. Make sure the part receives adequate heat. Like someone wrote in the comments, a enclosure works best to keep the temperature of the entire print warm instead of just the few layers closest to the bed. More perimeter layers works very well by providing more structural strength to try and combat the warping. I've stumbled upon this solution when I had trouble with ABS. Lastly, first layer is always the most important part of any print. You want to make sure it is as level as possible and a good tip is to raise your bed just so slightly than usual so the first layer is jammed hard against the bed. This provides better surface area. Just be careful not to clog your printhead cause if you constrict the flow out of the nozzle too much, you'll might end up with plastic trying to flow upwards or maybe grind the filament with the extruder gear. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem with ABS. I tried first painters tape and it was a very bad. Double-sided adhesive tape was good at the beginning but there was wrapping after several layers. The best solution was a mixture of acetone and ABS. I applied it onto the surface of the heated bed and there was no wrapping. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Adjusting the design may also be able to help limit the amount of warping you get. One of the major causes of warping is upper layers contracting while cooling when laid down over now-cool(er) lower layers which no longer contract so much but are still thin enough to flex when subject to tension along their upper edge. Insertion of strategically placed gaps in upper layers can reduce the tension such layers are able to apply. I was printing some long thin beams in ABS. I inserted horizontal-axis holes along the beams (making them look a bit like [LEGO Technic](https://assets.madaboutbricks.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/23161640/Lego-40490-Black-Technic-Beam-9_2.jpg) beams rather than solid pieces). It did the job for me. Upvotes: 1

2017/11/14

<issue_start>username_0: In the image, [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcPgL.png)there is an object circled in blue on the anet a8 printer that I need to buy a replacement of, however, I can not find it online, please help.<issue_comment>username_1: This is part of [filament drive](http://3dprinting-blog.com/tag/3d-printer-upgrade/). Anets do not sell it separately, only as a part of extruder assembly, but other manufacturers may make incompatible parts: of different size (not fitting into bracket), filament channel position, etc. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Like @username_1 said the name of this component is the filament drive. Most of the manufactures sell the whole extrusion device already assembled, to avoid mismatches between the components of the extrusion device. If your device is somehow damaged, and without possibilities to be used in the printer the easiest solution would be to buy a new extrusion device. If financially is unfeasible for you, you may have the option to generate the 3D model of this piece and share the file to someone who could print this component for you. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: This is the throat block for direct drive extrusion, Anet8 is a cheap clone of Prusa printers, so it's easy to find parts for Anet printers. This is one extruder kit that may help your needs, [1 Unidades Impresora 3D makerbot MK8 Extrusora De extrusión de Aluminio Bloque de DIY Kit para Reprap i3](https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/1Set-3D-Printer-makerbot-MK8-Extruder-Aluminum-extrusion-Frame-Block-DIY-Kit-for-Reprap-i3/1962255_32715673423.html?spm=a219c.search0104.3.269.W5yIqd&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10345_10342_10343_10173_10340_10341_10541_10562_10084_10083_10307_10060_10155_5680016_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10312_10059_10313_10314_10534_10533_100031_10103_10073_10102_10557_10142_10107,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=79693e48-00b7-4029-908d-314b37935569&algo_expid=64c2aa2b-e9de-4722-8ecb-0ba5542f5a86-34&algo_pvid=64c2aa2b-e9de-4722-8ecb-0ba5542f5a86). This is a link for Aliexpress - of course there are other dealers. Upvotes: 3

2017/11/14

<issue_start>username_0: I have a Prusa i3 printer with mk8 extruder. I am using PETG with (200-240/75-85) degrees recommended temp on it's box. but when I do printing i hear some knocking sound that means there is a problem in extrusion. last time I did increase my temp up to 270 degrees!! maybe this sound solved! but it damaged my extruder's screw's inner Teflon and I forced to change it! Now I have a new nozzle and extruder's screw, but again I can hear this sound during the printing! I thought maybe it's because of very close distance between the nozzle and the bed, but when I increase the distance, the filament starts to warping! My nozzle is new and it can't be for clogging. so I decreased the print speed from it's default 60mm(in Cura software) to 50, but didn't solve this sound. Also when I use pronterface and do extrusion manually, it works nice with 200 degrees! but I can hear the sound in 190 degrees. But when I do printing I hear the sound even in 200 degrees! Is this mean I must increase the temperature for printing? how much? By knocking sound I mean the sound you can hear when you have a clogged nozzle and the extruder's stepper motor can't push the filament into it and rotates with knocking sound!<issue_comment>username_1: This is part of [filament drive](http://3dprinting-blog.com/tag/3d-printer-upgrade/). Anets do not sell it separately, only as a part of extruder assembly, but other manufacturers may make incompatible parts: of different size (not fitting into bracket), filament channel position, etc. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Like @username_1 said the name of this component is the filament drive. Most of the manufactures sell the whole extrusion device already assembled, to avoid mismatches between the components of the extrusion device. If your device is somehow damaged, and without possibilities to be used in the printer the easiest solution would be to buy a new extrusion device. If financially is unfeasible for you, you may have the option to generate the 3D model of this piece and share the file to someone who could print this component for you. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: This is the throat block for direct drive extrusion, Anet8 is a cheap clone of Prusa printers, so it's easy to find parts for Anet printers. This is one extruder kit that may help your needs, [1 Unidades Impresora 3D makerbot MK8 Extrusora De extrusión de Aluminio Bloque de DIY Kit para Reprap i3](https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/1Set-3D-Printer-makerbot-MK8-Extruder-Aluminum-extrusion-Frame-Block-DIY-Kit-for-Reprap-i3/1962255_32715673423.html?spm=a219c.search0104.3.269.W5yIqd&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10345_10342_10343_10173_10340_10341_10541_10562_10084_10083_10307_10060_10155_5680016_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10312_10059_10313_10314_10534_10533_100031_10103_10073_10102_10557_10142_10107,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=79693e48-00b7-4029-908d-314b37935569&algo_expid=64c2aa2b-e9de-4722-8ecb-0ba5542f5a86-34&algo_pvid=64c2aa2b-e9de-4722-8ecb-0ba5542f5a86). This is a link for Aliexpress - of course there are other dealers. Upvotes: 3

2017/11/14

<issue_start>username_0: I would like to get a pretty accurate method to do finite element analysis (FEA) on my 3d designs considering the infill. I use *Autodesk Inventor* to design parts but the FEA can only be applied to a solid body (100% infill). Does anyone know software that can convert a 3d design to another but considering the infill so I can use FEA more accurately?<issue_comment>username_1: This is part of [filament drive](http://3dprinting-blog.com/tag/3d-printer-upgrade/). Anets do not sell it separately, only as a part of extruder assembly, but other manufacturers may make incompatible parts: of different size (not fitting into bracket), filament channel position, etc. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Like @username_1 said the name of this component is the filament drive. Most of the manufactures sell the whole extrusion device already assembled, to avoid mismatches between the components of the extrusion device. If your device is somehow damaged, and without possibilities to be used in the printer the easiest solution would be to buy a new extrusion device. If financially is unfeasible for you, you may have the option to generate the 3D model of this piece and share the file to someone who could print this component for you. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: This is the throat block for direct drive extrusion, Anet8 is a cheap clone of Prusa printers, so it's easy to find parts for Anet printers. This is one extruder kit that may help your needs, [1 Unidades Impresora 3D makerbot MK8 Extrusora De extrusión de Aluminio Bloque de DIY Kit para Reprap i3](https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/1Set-3D-Printer-makerbot-MK8-Extruder-Aluminum-extrusion-Frame-Block-DIY-Kit-for-Reprap-i3/1962255_32715673423.html?spm=a219c.search0104.3.269.W5yIqd&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10345_10342_10343_10173_10340_10341_10541_10562_10084_10083_10307_10060_10155_5680016_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10312_10059_10313_10314_10534_10533_100031_10103_10073_10102_10557_10142_10107,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=79693e48-00b7-4029-908d-314b37935569&algo_expid=64c2aa2b-e9de-4722-8ecb-0ba5542f5a86-34&algo_pvid=64c2aa2b-e9de-4722-8ecb-0ba5542f5a86). This is a link for Aliexpress - of course there are other dealers. Upvotes: 3

2017/11/14

<issue_start>username_0: Is this a leveling problem? or it's because the bed temperature isn't equal in everywhere? If it's because of leveling, it means the distance between nozzle and bed in this not-sticked corners are lot and should be decrease? EDIT: material is ABS, and it's recommended temp is 190-230/80-100. But I use Cura high quality ABS default settings with 225/80. (But I had this problem with PLA with 190/60 degrees too) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8jJkv.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pc30D.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sh5T.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqWOP.jpg) EDIT2: I have a cooling fan for my Arduino/ramps board. But there was a wire between it's blades and it didn't work. today I saw it and tried to fix but it's plastic duct broke. So I tried to put it by hand as how it's air can cool both the Electronics boars and the bed(you can see my fan in one of the pics in left side). And I got a nice printing results for the same part printing: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GlRIV.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/X5ImW.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bNbJF.jpg) So the cooling fan for printing part is very important to stick print to bed and I will print a duct for extra fan very soon!<issue_comment>username_1: For ABS, I use kapton tape, 90 degrees for the bed. You can also try acetone/ABS mixture (can be very thin). If you haven't got acetone, clean or new tape so there is no grease on it. You can also try a higher nozzle temp for the first layer, sometimes that helps. You can also try lowerimg the nozzle slightly, but it doesn't look bad. Increase flow rate to 110% probably wont do any harm - basically focus on the details before trying to print complicated parts. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can clearly print but there are also some problems it seems. To see if you're about okay when it comes to leveling, I recommend to activate the 'skirt' in your slicer soft. Slic3r has it and I think most others too, it just makes the printer do a big one-layer all-around 'perimeter' around what is going to be printed before starting. You'll see quickly if there is not enough or too much space between the bed and the nozzle. You might catch other problems too (I love it because when the hotend drips a bit when leveling it get's smeared out far away from where the print is going to happen). Your print looks like it is not optimal (overextrusion? no print-cooling? ...) so start with slowing down, first layer 20-25mm/s (Look at it when it's printed, it's very telling!). Then for the following ones, don't go over 40-50mm/s for starters. Last but not least, you are printing ABS (but you said you had the problem with PLA too, hence my post), I have never printed ABS but for what I have read, you'll need a heatbed and a heated chamber(enclosed printer) to not have this kind of problems. But for PLA especially; If you have a heat bed, don't put on too much heat when printing, I went from 60°C to 50°C, first layer, 30° then, and my prints now stick like they are melded onto my plate instead of skidding around. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2017/11/14

<issue_start>username_0: I'm printing a cylindrical piece but at any moment it breaks down. I tried it two times, both have break down in different place. I'm using a 1.75 mm PLA filament in my Anet A8. I'm using Cura 2.6.2 to export to a `.gcode` file. This is the original model: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mglT8.png "Original model") And this is the result: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mtYyb.jpg "Printed result") Here is the [G-code file](https://mega.nz/#!1hkyhLBA!xmt7s38vrb7fEh9SkiSYWfgwLxg4WaYED1h6vzUpghg).<issue_comment>username_1: The first thought that pops into my mind is insufficient cooling. Consider to either slow down the nozzle speed or to construct a toss-away model nearby. I prefer the toss-away or duplicate model method. It allows the material printed on the first column to cool more effectively while the material on the second column is being deposited. If the problem persists, add a third column or slow the print speed about 10 mm / second Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The [answer by fred\_dot\_u](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4975/printing-starts-well-but-then-it-breaks-down-anet-a8#answer-4976) is fine for small prints with relative low cost or batch producing, where a single part is needed several times. But if you print something big or unique it's not cost effective. Slowing down the complete print is also not very time efficient. In Cura there an option called **Mininum layer time**, which addresses this problem: ``` Cooling -> Minimum Layer Time / Minimum Speed ``` This means that it will only slow down when the print distance for a particular layer is short. Giving the material some extra time to harden. Other layers will be printed at normal speed. Increased print time will be limited this way. For your situation I would advise you to increase the part cooling, if possible, in conjunction with configuring the *Minimum Layer Time* option mentioned above. Upvotes: 3

2017/11/15

<issue_start>username_0: I'm fairly new to 3D printing but I'm getting the steam up and I chug out pieces without much hassle. One thing though is that I have the impression that sometimes, parts are easily broken, and I suspect bad adhesion between layers. I'm printing eSun PLA at 208 °C (212 °C first layer), bed at 50 °C first layer then 30 °C. When I print the Benchy boat, it feels extremely sturdy (even the small chimney is unbreakable by hand), but if I make, say, a 50 mm diameter cylinder with 4 mm wall thickness, It breaks fairly easy along some layer. I don't see any specific error, it "looks" okay. So my question is: How do you assure that you print layers that bond enough? [Edit] I already know that might actually cause bad bonding (low heat, underextrusion, ...) but I'm looking for a way to see when it happens. Here is an image from when I stopped mid print (you can see the little ooze string just at the start at the crack) for checking dimensions. The next layer didn't bond well because, I guess, the already printed part had cooled down when I un-paused the print (say 1 minute later) or maybe the z-axis went off a bit when I touched the build plate. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9shu.jpg) Is the only way of knowing layers bonded correctly, to try to break the part apart?<issue_comment>username_1: No matter what you do, the adhesion between layers will never be as strong as the adhesion in the direction of layer application. It's analogous to a wooden baseball bat (for those old enough to remember them :-) ). If you apply force perpendicular to the "grain," i.e. growth layers, it's strong. If you apply force along the grain, it'll snap pretty easily. Now, if you print a cylinder vertically, it snaps between layers. If you print it horizontally, the layers run along the cylinder axis and it won't break. That's of course a much more difficult print with extrusion systems, and cosmetically less desirable as well. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I think the reason why the large cylinder is breaking much easier than the smokestack would is because of leverage. If you print the same cylinder at a much smaller scale it might be more difficult to break it. Think of taking a wooden stick, if you try to snap it by holding both hands near the center, it would be difficult but if you push on the very ends, the leverage will make it easier to snap. I have the tug boat on my desk right now and I was unable to snap it, instead I broke the cabin section just right above the steering wheel. Now to answer your question. One of the faults in larger prints having weak layer adhesion could be a number of things. I think a common fault is under extrusion. If the nozzle has a high enough gap from the previous layer and it extrudes just enough filament to touch the layer but not necessarily push it snug, it could be a weak bond. This is like tape, usually when you want to make sure it will stay stuck, you press hard and rub it in. So I imagine filament shouldn't loosely flow onto layers but instead be pressed hard against the previous layers. Visually this is hard to judge but I noticed getting my first layer very close to the print bed makes every other layer stick very stronger on the previous one. You get a small skirt on the first layer but it does tend to give me a stronger bond between layers. You can easily slice off the skirt with a blade. Increasing the extrusion multiplier could give the same affect without needing to adjust bed height/leveling, but this can end up giving you some nasty walls. Another thing I recommend is to check your Z-axis. This is difficult to measure and best to find out by print quality on tall structures. On my first printer I had the issue where my threaded Z-rods would bind and cause one of the two rods to get a slight bit ahead. This caused a layer split focused on the side opposite of the faulty rod. This made many prints very prone to breaking at that point. I had to rebuild my Z-axis assembly to correct this. Print temperature can help, try raising it up by 5 to see if this improves the bonding. Lastly, try another filament. Filament tends to go bad due to moisture exposure, that is why usually you receive it airtight with a small bag of silica to absorb moisture. If I use filament which has been sitting out for months, just squeezing my part separates the layers in almost a slinky kind of way. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: From my experience the most profound difference is in the material. Especially with eSun PLA that I have used over 10 spools I have found huge inconsistencies. In one spool the printing adhesion was fine on other spools it was very very bad. My first advise is try another branded filament, I would recomend Colorfabb, Polymaker and Formfutura for PLAs. Secondly if you want to use the eSUN try higher temperatures, go above 210 or even 220. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: (Note: I realize this question is old, but I came across it looking for information on related topics and it didn't seem to have any sufficiently good answers yet.) To me, this looks exactly like what I'd expect printing with layers almost as thick as the nozzle diameter and insufficient hotend temperature or excessive speed. I've had problems like this at sizes 0.3 to 1/3 mm using an 0.4 mm nozzle even at my usual PLA temperature of 210, and can imagine it would be much worse at lower temperatures. If you didn't see the problem on benchy with a smaller cylinder, it's probably either because acceleration limits (which will be dominant on small details) prevented reaching high speeds, or (less likely in my opinion) because the deposited material had not had as much time to cool before the next layer was reached. In order for layers to bond the newly deposited material needs to be pressed against the material already present, while melted, with sufficient heat transferred into the already-deposited material to make it amenable to bonding (naively I would guess this means it needs to reach around the glass transition temp, but that may be wrong). With layer thickness near the nozzle diameter, the nozzle will be putting less pressure on the existing material, making this harder. Also, if there has been underextrusion anywhere in the supporting wall below, the already-deposited material can simply compress downward into the gaps when new material is extruded against it, rather than them getting pressed together. For 0.3 mm layers, I'd go with the highest temperature the filament manufacturer rates it for, or even slightly higher if you have reason to believe the material is okay at higher temperatures. Some people say lowering the fan speed or turning it off is an option, but I've had really bad results with precision and/or stringing whenever I try that. Significantly lowering the print speed is also an option. That will greatly reduce the chance of underextrusion, and results in more heat transfer from the nozzle into already-deposited material. However lowering the speed generally defeats the purpose of 0.3 mm layers; you could instead just drop down to 0.25 mm or 0.2 mm and get much better quality at the same total print time. Upvotes: 2

2017/11/15

<issue_start>username_0: Question -------- What is PLA+? How is it different than PLA? I'm looking for science, composition, formula, safety concerns (or lack thereof), etc. Background ---------- I picked up a roll of PLA+ at Microcenter (their in-house Inland brand) because it was on clearance. I didn't even notice the "+" until I decided to try that color, and then I noticed it on the sticker. It prints well, feels like ABS, smells like PLA when printing, and I can use PLA temps on my printer. It sands better than PLA, and if I I hadn't noticed the PLA+ sticker, and the smell, **I would think it was ABS**. It will break its line into my printer like PLA does; ABS doesn't break if left alone. However, PLA+ lasts longer than regular PLA before breaking. Getting info from the Internet ------------------------------ Aside from a few discussions on reddit ([review](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4iqzop/pla_vs_pla_short_review/), [commercial introduction](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4huvoj/introducing_esun_pla_pro_pla/)), I can't find anything about it. Getting info from the Manufacturer ---------------------------------- I went back to Microcenter and the guy that was there working the 3d printing section did not know what I was talking about. I went to Microcenter another time and the guy in the filament area said that all of their PLA filament was now PLA+, and that the + meant it was to be used at a higher temperature. The boxes are labeled with 205 - 225°C. It seems that all the inland brand PLA I have is PLA+, save for the first roll I bought. It does not have any kind of temperature markings on it. Flash forward 1.5+ years from the original question --------------------------------------------------- This question got some recent attention, so I looked to find the answer again. I found [this article](https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-pla-3d-printer-filament-compared/), which is a hot pile of !usefulness, giving no data, lots of opinion, and probably some direct insights from someone's marketing department. [These guys](http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?t=3345) say it's good stuff, but nothing about the chemical or compositional difference between the two. When I find people talking about the difference (like on reddit), those are the details usually mentioned, which are vague, anecdotal, and opinionated, and could be clever marketing (could be, not guaranteed to be). One man's shiny is another man's matte for example. [Monoprice confirmed](https://monopricesupport.kayako.com/article/3-what-is-the-difference-between-the-filaments-offered) what I already did by reading the label and printing with it, but does mention TPU, which might be [Thermoplastic polyurethane](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoplastic_polyurethane). No quantity or proportion or anything, and since they're the only manufacturer/reseller to officially say this, I consider it unconfirmed. One of the answers below says that PLA+ probably includes TPU or something like it, but that's conjecture or opinion by their own admission. > > PLA+ is a variation of PLA that has added material in order to make > the filament less brittle, have a smoother surface finish, and less > likely to absorb moisture. Typically, TPU is added into the filament > in order to achieve this property. PLA+ will have the feel and > functionality of ABS without the smell. If you didn’t know better, you > would think it was ABS. We suggest printing with PLA+ at 205 to 210 > degrees Celsius and with a bed temperature of 45 degrees Celsius. PLA+ > responds very well to blue painter’s tape and a glue stick to hold > properly and not peel up when printing. > > > [These people](http://forum.makergear.com/viewtopic.php?t=1552) also ask what it is, but they're doing science about it circa 2014 to try to figure it out. I'm not sure what to think of [this manufacturer/seller's description](https://duchofilla.com/product-category/filament/pla-plus/). It sounds like they are implying that PLA has a branding problem, so they added a plus to it for a new formula to fix their branding. > > PLA Plus is an enhanced version of our PLA that's less brittle and > more durable. ‘Enhanced’ PLAs have a bad reputation, some are no > better than PLA, some perform worse in some conditions. We’ve taken a > different approach: our ‘regular’ PLA is regarded as the strongest > pure PLA in the industry, it’s hard to improve on the best. But > sometimes you need something a little more durable. Enter our > specially formulated PLA Plus. Prints like PLA, but with better > durability. Its available with their brighter color options! > > > Final thoughts -------------- I find a lot of articles/posts talking about "eSun PLA+" specifically. I'm starting to think that this might be the OEM and that other companies are selling it with their own branding, but that all PLA+ comes from the same place. I found their [product page](http://www.esun3d.net/products/142.html), and it says this, which mentions nothing about the formula: > > Characteristics： > > > * extracted and purified from corn grain; > * high rigidity, good glossiness and transparency; > * suitable for printing larger models; > * toughness is 2 times more than the PLA on the market; > * no wiredrawing problems, the surface of the printouts will be smoother and more delicate; > * no cracking problem. > > ><issue_comment>username_1: There’s no huge difference between both. The printing settings like temperature and printing speed are practically the same. But the PLA+ have a much better surface quality and it’s slightly more bright than normal PLA. Another difference is that the PLA+ it's more effective in bridges than PLA. If you want to the comparison between PLA and PLA+ go right here, [PLA vs PLA+ (short review)](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4iqzop/pla_vs_pla_short_review/). This post is an awesome experiment with both materials. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: PLA+, depending on the brand, is probably a mixture of other plastics (things like TPU1) to help improve upon the weaknesses of regular PLA like brittleness and moisture absorbing. Or they simply used a higher quality PLA blend to create the filament. I do not have a specific source except from collaborating with different materials experts such as [Essentium Materials](http://essentiummaterials.com). TPU is a flexible plastic that can have different "hardness" levels. --- 1 Thermoplastic Polyurethane. It's a flexible thermoplastic. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: PLA+ is a **marketing term**. Where PLA and ABS have specific chemical meanings (more or less... manufacturers already will have different additives or processes), the only real requirement for PLA+ is using some unknown quantity of PLA as a base. Look at coffee beans as an example: we have Arabica vs Robusta. Arabica is usually considered better, for some definition of "better". (BTW: Starbucks serves cheaper Robusta). The relevant thing here is in many places you only need 10% Arabica content to label and market a coffee as Arabica coffee. The rest of the product could be... well, *anything* the maker wants to include. PLA+ is similar. There's no real definitive meaning to it, beyond some measure of original PLA content and the hope you'll believe it's "better", and therefore maybe pay a little more. The good news is, usually PLA+ really is better... at least so far. But as more people start viewing it as a real step up from regular PLA, it's likely we'll also start to see some shady business people pass off inferior product at PLA+. It's likely this is already happening. Moral of the story: read the label carefully. And unlike coffee, which is a food and therefore better regulated, filaments have hardly any rules about labeling; there may not be a label to read at all, so be extra careful what you buy. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with any linked brand or company, I just link to them for reference of the suggested print settings. What is PLA? ============ PLA is, by its definition PolyLacticAcid, a polymer of entwined lactic acids. It is commonly made from fermenting starch - not via Type I (alcohol) but Type II (lactic acid) fermentation[user77232](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857/user77232), [Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactic_acid_fermentation). Chemically it looks like this: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFAww.png) It's relevant physical data for the pure material are a density of 1.210–1.430 g·cm−3 and a melting point of 150 to 160 °C.[Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid). Usually, PLA sold under just the name PLA contains, besides PLA, additives to change the color from transparent to whatever color one is printing at. This can change the standard printing temperature depending on the amount, size and shape of the pigments embedded (see below). Common Printing temperatures are listed by the manufacturers in the range of 185 to 210 °C. The color can have an influence on the printing temperature, especially for the difference between transparent and opaque filaments. While a heated bed is not strictly necessary, the bed temperature is usually quoted with 60 °C. I myself print most PLA filaments at 200 °C and 60 °C bed, but for noncolored transparent filament, I had better results using 190 °C. Note that not all PLA is just PLA! It is very likely that some PLA brands contain fillers and additives from the house without claiming to be a +-filament, indeed, additives precede the idea of PLA+, as the case with Tiertime PP3DP filaments will show. ### The special Tiertime mixture Since back in 2012 or earlier, ABS made by Tiertime includes some unknown compound (possibly PC) that alters the best-result print temperature from the "normal" 220 - 240 °C to the much higher but narrower 260 - 270 °C band. Why this is done is a mystery among 3d-printing enthusiasts, but it might be either to get rid of any color-dependency of the print results or to make it harder to use generic ABS. Fact is, that this temperature was matching what was set as the (then unchangeable) standard temperature in the *Up 1.1.7* software of that time.[Angus aka MakersMuse](https://www.tiertime.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8233) & [Tiertime Forums](https://www.tiertime.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8233). The higher temperature hasn't changed over the years[Tiertime ABS](https://www.genie-online.de/product/3D-printer-ABS-filament-1x700g-1.75mm-Color-black/239). Indeed, the Tiertime PLA introduced in March 2014[Tiertime](https://www.tiertime.com/tiertime-now-offers-pla-for-up-series-printers/) is also quoted to print at higher temperatures than generic PLA, and had similarly a higher default temperature in the then updated UP-spftware[Tiertime Forums](https://www.tiertime.com/dami/viewtopic.php?t=54665), though I found listings from 200[here](https://3dprintersuperstore.com.au/products/black-up-pla) & [here](https://www.reprap-3d-printer.com/product/1234568364-pla-tiertime-official-natural) to 215 °C[here](https://www.3dmensionals.de/tiertime-pp3dp-up-pla-filament-1000g?number=PSUPP0030V) under Technische Daten. **The modern *UP-Studio* software allows setting the temperature freely**[Angus aka MakersMuse](https://youtu.be/uCnNxc_U9cE?t=437). What is PLA+? ============= Now, what differs PLA from PLA+? Well, PLA+ is a *modified* PLA, which means that it has additives in it to alter its properties. What exactly is added depends extremely on the manufacturer, and no two PLA+ are the same.[all3dp](https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-pla-3d-printer-filament-compared/). What is the difference? ======================= PLA+ has - but for a few degrees - the same printing temperature as standard PLA. In fact, the printing temperature difference between standard PLA from different brands is often larger than the difference between PLA and PLA+. [All3dp](https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-pla-3d-printer-filament-compared/) claims, that most PLA+ would have a better surface finish than the PLA from the same brand. Because of the additives, they also usually print best at elevated temperature compared to PLA. Among various manufacturers, I saw 210–240 °C[Kodak PLA+](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B079VYGNRG), 190-220 °C[SUNLU PLA+](https://www.amazon.de/SUNLU-Filament-Printing-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B073P9LZWB) and 190-210 °C[eSun PLA+](https://www.amazon.de/eSun-Filament-Universal-Thing-matic/dp/B01KM6MDFG). However, there is no uniformity in other effects on the filament. Some filaments would have less moisture absorption, a different stiffness or compressibility while others might have a higher tensile strength and feature an extremely glossy surface. Most commonly, the claimed benefits lie in the fields of the filament's strength, surface texture and glossiness, the printability of overhangs. Conclusion ========== PLA+ is **not one product** per se but **a family of modified PLA**. While you can print PLA+ with the same settings as normal PLA, the resulting benefits between different brands are much more diverse than with normal PLA. * Changing between different brands of *similar quality* normal PLA has usually little to no effect on the print's general properties. * Changing between different brands of *similar quality* PLA+ can alter the print's properties immensely Because of the fact that no two brands of PLA+ are the same (and the manufacturers are silent on what additives they use to change the properties), one should not rely on the same effects when switching between brands. Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_5: Some of these questions could be answered by asking manufacturers for MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets), aka. SDS (Safety Data Sheets). Under EU laws in place since 2008 any substance shipped into the EEA (European Economic Area) in quantities of more than 1 tonne/year, whose composition contains more than 0.1% by weight of a compound identified in the [Article 57 database](https://www.ema.europa.eu/en/human-regulatory/post-authorisation/data-medicines-iso-idmp-standards/public-data-article-57-database), must provide an MSDS on request that includes a breakdown of its content. If you look at the [SDS for eSUN's PLA+](http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/Download/MSDS_Esun_PLA_PLUS_filament.pdf), for example you see: ``` ╔═══════════════════╦═══════════╦═══════════╦═════════════╗ ║ Ingredient Name ║ CAS No. ║ EC No. ║ Content (%) ║ ╠═══════════════════╬═══════════╬═══════════╬═════════════╣ ║ Polylactide resin ║ 9051-89-2 ║ 618-575-7 ║ 98 ║ ║ Calcium carbonate ║ 471-34-1 ║ 207-439-9 ║ 2 ║ ╚═══════════════════╩═══════════╩═══════════╩═════════════╝ ``` Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: I know this is an old question, but CNC Kitchen just recently [did a review of PLA+](https://youtu.be/uAoZCpXoPWo) and the mechanical properties of one brand, and found it far weaker than plain PLA, but with failure modes that might be mord graceful/preferable for some applications. In short, it stretched and tore rather than snapping. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: Adding this as a new answer since it doesn't seem to be covered in existing ones: Despite "PLA+" being a marketing term without a specific definition, I've found that many (most?) filament vendors don't seem to be doing their own secret-sauce blending to make it, and most premium filament vendors who *do document* the source polymers they use are using roughly the same thing - most often one of the [Natureworks Ingeo 3D series of polymers](https://www.natureworksllc.com/Products/3D-series-for-3D-printing), obtained in pellet source form, often 3D850 or 3D870. As such, if you can verify that this is what you filament marketed as "PLA+" is made from (or just search out one that's well-documented) you can use the data sheets for the polymer to find out more about how it's formulated. Upvotes: 1

2017/11/19

<issue_start>username_0: I know you should, like an infant, never leave your printer without surveillance. But sometimes we all do, trusting our double thermistors and heat runaway configurations. But electronics fry and who says there is no danger even after the print job has finished and it's cooling down, still hooked up? I have searched but smoke/fire detectors come in a wide range of varieties: They can be battery powered or hardwired, they detect different things: carbon monoxide, heat, smoke..., they thus also have different detectors like photoelectric sensors, ionization sensors or both. We also print with different materials... So what's the best safeguard for my 2 year old (CoreXY ^^)?<issue_comment>username_1: There’s no huge difference between both. The printing settings like temperature and printing speed are practically the same. But the PLA+ have a much better surface quality and it’s slightly more bright than normal PLA. Another difference is that the PLA+ it's more effective in bridges than PLA. If you want to the comparison between PLA and PLA+ go right here, [PLA vs PLA+ (short review)](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4iqzop/pla_vs_pla_short_review/). This post is an awesome experiment with both materials. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: PLA+, depending on the brand, is probably a mixture of other plastics (things like TPU1) to help improve upon the weaknesses of regular PLA like brittleness and moisture absorbing. Or they simply used a higher quality PLA blend to create the filament. I do not have a specific source except from collaborating with different materials experts such as [Essentium Materials](http://essentiummaterials.com). TPU is a flexible plastic that can have different "hardness" levels. --- 1 Thermoplastic Polyurethane. It's a flexible thermoplastic. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: PLA+ is a **marketing term**. Where PLA and ABS have specific chemical meanings (more or less... manufacturers already will have different additives or processes), the only real requirement for PLA+ is using some unknown quantity of PLA as a base. Look at coffee beans as an example: we have Arabica vs Robusta. Arabica is usually considered better, for some definition of "better". (BTW: Starbucks serves cheaper Robusta). The relevant thing here is in many places you only need 10% Arabica content to label and market a coffee as Arabica coffee. The rest of the product could be... well, *anything* the maker wants to include. PLA+ is similar. There's no real definitive meaning to it, beyond some measure of original PLA content and the hope you'll believe it's "better", and therefore maybe pay a little more. The good news is, usually PLA+ really is better... at least so far. But as more people start viewing it as a real step up from regular PLA, it's likely we'll also start to see some shady business people pass off inferior product at PLA+. It's likely this is already happening. Moral of the story: read the label carefully. And unlike coffee, which is a food and therefore better regulated, filaments have hardly any rules about labeling; there may not be a label to read at all, so be extra careful what you buy. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with any linked brand or company, I just link to them for reference of the suggested print settings. What is PLA? ============ PLA is, by its definition PolyLacticAcid, a polymer of entwined lactic acids. It is commonly made from fermenting starch - not via Type I (alcohol) but Type II (lactic acid) fermentation[user77232](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857/user77232), [Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lactic_acid_fermentation). Chemically it looks like this: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JFAww.png) It's relevant physical data for the pure material are a density of 1.210–1.430 g·cm−3 and a melting point of 150 to 160 °C.[Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid). Usually, PLA sold under just the name PLA contains, besides PLA, additives to change the color from transparent to whatever color one is printing at. This can change the standard printing temperature depending on the amount, size and shape of the pigments embedded (see below). Common Printing temperatures are listed by the manufacturers in the range of 185 to 210 °C. The color can have an influence on the printing temperature, especially for the difference between transparent and opaque filaments. While a heated bed is not strictly necessary, the bed temperature is usually quoted with 60 °C. I myself print most PLA filaments at 200 °C and 60 °C bed, but for noncolored transparent filament, I had better results using 190 °C. Note that not all PLA is just PLA! It is very likely that some PLA brands contain fillers and additives from the house without claiming to be a +-filament, indeed, additives precede the idea of PLA+, as the case with Tiertime PP3DP filaments will show. ### The special Tiertime mixture Since back in 2012 or earlier, ABS made by Tiertime includes some unknown compound (possibly PC) that alters the best-result print temperature from the "normal" 220 - 240 °C to the much higher but narrower 260 - 270 °C band. Why this is done is a mystery among 3d-printing enthusiasts, but it might be either to get rid of any color-dependency of the print results or to make it harder to use generic ABS. Fact is, that this temperature was matching what was set as the (then unchangeable) standard temperature in the *Up 1.1.7* software of that time.[Angus aka MakersMuse](https://www.tiertime.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8233) & [Tiertime Forums](https://www.tiertime.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8233). The higher temperature hasn't changed over the years[Tiertime ABS](https://www.genie-online.de/product/3D-printer-ABS-filament-1x700g-1.75mm-Color-black/239). Indeed, the Tiertime PLA introduced in March 2014[Tiertime](https://www.tiertime.com/tiertime-now-offers-pla-for-up-series-printers/) is also quoted to print at higher temperatures than generic PLA, and had similarly a higher default temperature in the then updated UP-spftware[Tiertime Forums](https://www.tiertime.com/dami/viewtopic.php?t=54665), though I found listings from 200[here](https://3dprintersuperstore.com.au/products/black-up-pla) & [here](https://www.reprap-3d-printer.com/product/1234568364-pla-tiertime-official-natural) to 215 °C[here](https://www.3dmensionals.de/tiertime-pp3dp-up-pla-filament-1000g?number=PSUPP0030V) under Technische Daten. **The modern *UP-Studio* software allows setting the temperature freely**[Angus aka MakersMuse](https://youtu.be/uCnNxc_U9cE?t=437). What is PLA+? ============= Now, what differs PLA from PLA+? Well, PLA+ is a *modified* PLA, which means that it has additives in it to alter its properties. What exactly is added depends extremely on the manufacturer, and no two PLA+ are the same.[all3dp](https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-pla-3d-printer-filament-compared/). What is the difference? ======================= PLA+ has - but for a few degrees - the same printing temperature as standard PLA. In fact, the printing temperature difference between standard PLA from different brands is often larger than the difference between PLA and PLA+. [All3dp](https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-pla-3d-printer-filament-compared/) claims, that most PLA+ would have a better surface finish than the PLA from the same brand. Because of the additives, they also usually print best at elevated temperature compared to PLA. Among various manufacturers, I saw 210–240 °C[Kodak PLA+](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B079VYGNRG), 190-220 °C[SUNLU PLA+](https://www.amazon.de/SUNLU-Filament-Printing-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B073P9LZWB) and 190-210 °C[eSun PLA+](https://www.amazon.de/eSun-Filament-Universal-Thing-matic/dp/B01KM6MDFG). However, there is no uniformity in other effects on the filament. Some filaments would have less moisture absorption, a different stiffness or compressibility while others might have a higher tensile strength and feature an extremely glossy surface. Most commonly, the claimed benefits lie in the fields of the filament's strength, surface texture and glossiness, the printability of overhangs. Conclusion ========== PLA+ is **not one product** per se but **a family of modified PLA**. While you can print PLA+ with the same settings as normal PLA, the resulting benefits between different brands are much more diverse than with normal PLA. * Changing between different brands of *similar quality* normal PLA has usually little to no effect on the print's general properties. * Changing between different brands of *similar quality* PLA+ can alter the print's properties immensely Because of the fact that no two brands of PLA+ are the same (and the manufacturers are silent on what additives they use to change the properties), one should not rely on the same effects when switching between brands. Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_5: Some of these questions could be answered by asking manufacturers for MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets), aka. SDS (Safety Data Sheets). Under EU laws in place since 2008 any substance shipped into the EEA (European Economic Area) in quantities of more than 1 tonne/year, whose composition contains more than 0.1% by weight of a compound identified in the [Article 57 database](https://www.ema.europa.eu/en/human-regulatory/post-authorisation/data-medicines-iso-idmp-standards/public-data-article-57-database), must provide an MSDS on request that includes a breakdown of its content. If you look at the [SDS for eSUN's PLA+](http://www.esun3d.net/UploadFiles/Download/MSDS_Esun_PLA_PLUS_filament.pdf), for example you see: ``` ╔═══════════════════╦═══════════╦═══════════╦═════════════╗ ║ Ingredient Name ║ CAS No. ║ EC No. ║ Content (%) ║ ╠═══════════════════╬═══════════╬═══════════╬═════════════╣ ║ Polylactide resin ║ 9051-89-2 ║ 618-575-7 ║ 98 ║ ║ Calcium carbonate ║ 471-34-1 ║ 207-439-9 ║ 2 ║ ╚═══════════════════╩═══════════╩═══════════╩═════════════╝ ``` Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: I know this is an old question, but CNC Kitchen just recently [did a review of PLA+](https://youtu.be/uAoZCpXoPWo) and the mechanical properties of one brand, and found it far weaker than plain PLA, but with failure modes that might be mord graceful/preferable for some applications. In short, it stretched and tore rather than snapping. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: Adding this as a new answer since it doesn't seem to be covered in existing ones: Despite "PLA+" being a marketing term without a specific definition, I've found that many (most?) filament vendors don't seem to be doing their own secret-sauce blending to make it, and most premium filament vendors who *do document* the source polymers they use are using roughly the same thing - most often one of the [Natureworks Ingeo 3D series of polymers](https://www.natureworksllc.com/Products/3D-series-for-3D-printing), obtained in pellet source form, often 3D850 or 3D870. As such, if you can verify that this is what you filament marketed as "PLA+" is made from (or just search out one that's well-documented) you can use the data sheets for the polymer to find out more about how it's formulated. Upvotes: 1

2017/11/19

<issue_start>username_0: As I said in the title there is some issue with my z axis steppers. They will make a humming sound and vibrate a little but won't actually spin. I'm fairly sure this is an issue with the firmware (but I might be totally wrong) since they turn when the wires are switched with the ones for the Y axis and swapping the driver board for a spare had no impact on them. Any help would be appreciated. I am using RAMPs 1.4 and marlin firmware.<issue_comment>username_1: Try connecting Y-motor to your Z ports. If Y-motor will behave like Z-motors, then there's problem with your Z ports, be it hardware or software. I'm not a RAMPS user, but have heard that there is voltage regulator for every motor port. Sounds like your motors may be underpowered. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Hello it's seems to be the voltage regutaltor on the steppers drivers for the nema motors. Check to adjust the voltage with a multimeter connecting the red pin from the multimeter on the voltage regulator on the driver and the black pin on the GND pin on the ramps 12v connector. Also make sure that you have connected the jumpers to setup the microstep resolution: Full step,Half step,Quarter step,Eighth step,Sixteenth step Best regards. Rodrigo Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Let's tick off the factors you have already checked for. It isn't the driver board, because the Z driver board drives the Y motors. It could be the Z motor itself (or the cable), which you could test by plugging the Z motor into the Y driver board. If only one of the two motor coils were being energized, it would cause vibration but generate no motion. @username_1 suggests it could be the drive current setting on the motor driver board. Possible, especially if the Z motor requires more current. It is also possible that the output pin from the Arduino Mega board may be bad, or not connecting well. To investigate, find the step and direction inputs to the stepper driver board. Use a voltmeter, logic probe, or oscilloscope to verify the signal levels. If the signals don't jiggle when moving the motor, then follow the wires and check at each point along the way. You could also plug in a replacement Arduino, which you have programmed with the firmware, and check if that works. If the Arduino pin is bad, you can keep it in your junk box for future projects. Looking at the firmware angle, one would check the speed and acceleration settings for the Z axis. When in doubt, try slower speed and lower acceleration. Z-axis performance doesn't make much difference in the printing speed. Upvotes: 1

2017/11/22

<issue_start>username_0: I recently backed a 3D printer on Kickstarter, and I would like to 3D print parts for high-temperature applications. So I have two questions; 1. What's the highest temperature polycarbonate can be safely heated to without warping or releasing toxins? 2. If there's a filament with better temp-resistance I can print could you tell me? (If you know the highest temperature it could reach safely, that would be helpful too.) My 3D printer will have a heated bed up to 100°C, and an extruder temp of up to 250°C.<issue_comment>username_1: * Polycarbonate is [heat-resistant up to ~120C](https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/why-3d-print-with-polycarbonate-how-to-get-best-results). Above this temperature it will gradually become flexible and may irreversibly bend. It will not generate any toxic fumes all the way up to ignition temperature (630C), because [it's fumes are not considered harmful](http://www.noxtat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/MSDS-SheetPC_TEC_2000_TEC_FUSION_2004.pdf). Note though, that with your temperature limit you may not be able to print with polycarbonate, or only do so at a very low speed. * According to the [sheets of commercially available printable plastics](https://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide), PC has the highest printing temperature and heat resistance among them, seconded by nylon. This refers to the FDM printers only. SLS printers may be able to use other materials, even metals like aluminum or titanium, so if you really wish to get temperature-resistant prints, you may look for workshops that have SLS printers and ask them. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: All plastics have two temperatures to consider for operation and evaluation: 1. Melting point = the temperature that plastics starts to get soft; this can be considered for maximum temperature operation. 2. Flow temperature = normally used for molding process and this have a wide range of temperatures depending on PPM´s and mixtures to meet a purpose like coffee cups. [Here](https://filaments.ca/pages/temperature-guide) a link for filament temperature guides Polycarbonates are the most plastic used for industrial and kitchen appliances. Due higher temperatures support and hardness, so I think is not possible to use polycarbonates in 3D printers due its temperatures are from 250°C to 320°C. Upvotes: 2

2017/11/25

<issue_start>username_0: I have seen some photos of aluminum based Prusa i3 printers, and I like to know the numbers and the specs of the profiles? Also I want to know Is the first pic strong enough for reliable printer or I must use the second(respect to profiles I mean). [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JcgdB.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qjfBM.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: They are 2020 (20mm x 20mm) T-slot extrusions. They should not be confused with V-slot extrusions, which are similar to T-slot, but have a 45-degree slot profile to accommodate V-slot wheels. If you are contemplating a new build, I would recommend using V-slot. Note that T-slot and V-slot come in a number of sizes (in multiples of 20mm). A 2040 profile is 20mm x 40mm, and will have two slots on the wider sides. Other sizes are available, such as 2060, 2080, 4040, and even C-shaped profiles. You may want to use 2040 profiles for greater rigidity, especially if you are contemplating a large build volume. Note that there are imperial as well as metric T-slot profiles. RepRap uses metric profiles. [ReRap Wiki: T-slot](http://reprap.org/wiki/T-Slot) [OpenBuilds: V-slot](http://openbuildspartstore.com/linear-rail/) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The specs for 2020 aluminum profile is here. <https://8020.net/20-2020-black-fb.html> This site even has the cad profile files for download. I have noticed that some people have suggested using V-Slot from open builds... however, V-Slot has a V for the V groove wheels which this design is not using so in my opinion there is absolutely no reason to pay a lot more for V-Slot when your not even using V groove wheels. I have also noticed that some people have suggested using 2040 T-Slot and the link above has a search and you can find the profile for 2040 T-Slot. I agree that T-Slot could be better; however, I would build first with 2020 T-Slot to see for yourself and then report your findings after upgrading to 2040 T-Slot. My guess is that you will find that 2020 T-Slot is enough if you use the recommend corner brackets... if your planning on using 3D printed corner brackets... then it might be necessary to use 2040 T-Slot. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: It can really depend on where you are in the world. A few years ago, I was unable to obtain standard V-slot (& T-nut) 2020 extrusion, at a reasonable price, and so I ended up using an extrusion from a local supplier instead, and managed to obtain 6 m of extrusion for only $15! My aluminium extrusion has this profile, which has V-Slot style grooves. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vzce3.jpg "2020 Aluminium Extrusion BKK#2") Also, it uses simple, and *cheap*, M5 nuts, rather than T-nuts, which are much more expensive (comparatively) Please see [Will standard M5 T-slot nuts fit these different 2020 aluminium extrusions?](https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/13471/will-standard-m5-t-slot-nuts-fit-these-different-2020-aluminium-extrusions), for more information. You can also use 1515, depending on the size of the printer... if you have a larger printer design then you can always double up and use two adjacent lengths of 1515 to effectively have 3015 (or 2040 - if using two pieces of 2020). Basically use whatever is available and cheap, it isn't necessary to pay a lot of money, just to have the perfect extrusion profile. Remember that you are designing/building the printer yourself, so you will have some leeway. Other sizes that may be available to use are 2525, 2040, 3030, 3060, etc.. However, if you are using 3D printed parts for the frame (such as the end or corner pieces), then you may be restricted in what type of extrusion that you can use, by the printed parts themselves and what type of extrusion they will fit. However, if you are only using aluminium parts for the frame (including aluminium corner brackets/braces) then you *should be* OK. Upvotes: 1

2017/11/27

<issue_start>username_0: I use a Prusa i3, and this is ABS printed part with 225/90°C. Why did this happen? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQbFC.jpg "First ABS print - image#1") [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gaXz.jpg "First ABS print - image#2") [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UTvir.jpg "First ABS print - image#3") [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vf8gr.jpg "First ABS print - image#4") I tried to print this part again with new settings on Slic3r (I used Cura for previous print), but I got the same result. I found that the problem is because the model starts to bend after about 1 cm height. Also the blue tape starts to separate from the bed. I don't use the fan for printing part (although the MK8 extruder's fan works all the time), and the temperature for the new part was (225/85°C first layer and 220/80°C for other layers). Also I must say that the adhesion of the model sticks to the bed is very good and strong, but it is bent! [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyzWW.jpg "Second ABS print - image#1") [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hWTjh.jpg "Second ABS print - image#1")<issue_comment>username_1: My best results with ABS have been with a hot bed (100 degrees C), and using the "acetone/ABS slurry" to stick the print to the bed. I was not able to get ABS to stick well enough to blue tape at low bed temperatures, and at high bed temperatures the blue tape would sometimes separate from the bed. The ABS slurry is applied to the cold bed, and gives you an ABS film intimately attached to the bed. It will be a thick enough film to carry the color, so it is best to make the slurry with the same color as you will be printing with. There is no absolute ration of acetone to ABS that should be used for the mixture. In service, the acetone evaporates. A thicker slurry will leave a thicker coating. I use flux brushes (sometimes called acid brushes) to apply the slurry, although one can also use a watercolor brush, or just pour a small puddle on a bed if it is level enough to not run off the edge. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Multiple problems here. Let's try to isolate them. * Blue tape. Good for PLA, not suitable for ABS. ABS works fine with kapton tape, glue stick, hair spray, ABS juice over glass, aluminum or PCB epoxy composite board. * Always use at least brim feature to ensure good adhesion along the edges (your last photos have none). For parts with small hotbed contact area use raft. * Hotbed temperature should be 100°C+, because at 80°C adhesion is weaker. If you can't raise hotbed temperature to 100°C, think about thermal insulation. * Layers of plastic don't stick to each other. Either plastic comes from extruder being already cold (check that there are no draughts of cold air nearby), or you're printing too fast (50 mm/s should generally work, if not try 30 mm/s). * No infill between walls. Either it is set to 0 or optimized out by some option. * Round walls aren't round. Either printing speed problem, or your belts are loose. * Underextrusion. Bottom of your first print looks like mesh rather than solid surface. Check that plastic flow is around 100%. Also check that your thermoresistor measures the actual temperature of the extruder (i.e. is in direct contact with it). Otherwise you will get overheated plastic extrusion, which looks like your first photos. Also, print a 1 cm cube first. Don't do anything complex, just cube. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Try putting your printer into a heated chamber, and when the print is finished, slowly decrease the temperature of the chamber. I would also recommend using putting something like buildtak or printbite onto your buildplate. If you are not able to do that I would recommend putting some purple gluestick onto the bed, or a few spritz of hairspray should do the trick. Upvotes: 1

2017/11/27

<issue_start>username_0: I am modelling a few cut templates to be used on an hexagonal grid (honeycomb) material using OpenSCAD. Basically, from a reference cell, I need to select all cells that are within a given range and given angle. I implemented this by creating an in memory grid that covers an area larger than what I need (extra range, 360 degrees), and then testing each cell for both the distance and angle requirements, extruding only those that test positive for both conditions. Everything works as expected... [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vzJD0.png) ...but now I would also like to add the possibility to have the outer contour of the template without having each individual cell within it (so, a single thin line going around the whole "pizza slice" above). I'm pretty new to OpenSCAD: what would be the best approach here? (I'm happy even with a solution that requires to re-implement what done until now).<issue_comment>username_1: Unfortunately, OpenSCAD does not have a 2D hull() transformation, although it has been requested. You might be able to find a pre-written package that implements a 2D hull. However, if all you want is a hexagonal grid with a border of some arbitrary shape, could you not cheat, and get your slicer to generate the grid for you? All you would need to do is generate the envelope, and then slice with a hexagonal grid as in-fill, and request no top or bottom layers. Most slicers will do hexagonal in-fill. If you want to do it all in OpenSCAD, then I would go about it like this: 1. Create a 2D grid, similar to what you have now. 2. Create a 2D outline of the shape you want, undersized so that you can add a manifold (as a perimeter). 3. Duplicate this shape. 4. Add a manifold to the first copy. 5. Create an intersection of the second copy and the grid. 6. Create a union of the two copies. 7. Extrude the union. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I ended up finding a reasonable solution myself: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mp3ET.png) Basically, I diffed two identical, non-hollow geometries, in which the first one had the cells larger than they needed to be (so overlapping with others), and the second one had them exactly of the right dimension: ``` difference() { base_geometry(range, angle, infill, extra_padding = 2); base_geometry(range, angle, infill, extra_padding = 0); } ``` This way the only portion of the solid remaining was the `extra_padding` on the outer edges of the geometry. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2017/11/29

<issue_start>username_0: The short version of my question is: > > *Are 3D printed parts made of ABS likely to survive for **one year** in an incubator at **80℃**?* > > > Please read on for more details. I am printing some parts that will be used inside an incubator in a lab. They are likely to be used at 80℃ for at least a year, possibly even at higher temperatures than that. (But most likely under 100℃.) We're currently using ABS for these parts. My question is whether 3D printed ABS will degrade under those conditions. (For example: will it become soft and slump; will it discolour; will it become brittle?) The parts clip together to form quite a big object, which is basically a rack holding a lot of glass vials, so it's important that it stays rigid. I did find some papers on thermal degradation of ABS (for example [this one](http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0141391002000459) looks quite comprehensive) but I don't have the experience to interpret them in terms of how my parts will behave practically. I'm also not sure if being 3D printed will make a difference. If ABS is not suitable for this kind of application, are there other plastics that are? We're using the Zortrax M200, so our choices are the plastics listed [here](https://zortrax.com/materials/zortrax-m-series/). I note that PCABS is listed as specifically being temperature resistant, so we might go with that - but we'd prefer ABS if it will work, since it comes in white rather than ivory (which is important for our application) and we have plenty of it available. --- **update:** we decided in the end that using ABS is too risky, so we went with PCABS and we'll just live with the yellowish colour. (We might paint it white.) It's currently in the oven on a test run, and if it doesn't fail in a few weeks we'll take the risk of running the year-long experiment with this material. However, we would still *very greatly* appreciate advice from anyone who has concrete knowledge or experience of this kind of situation.<issue_comment>username_1: I would recommend [Taulman Bluprint](http://taulman3d.com/bluprint-spec.html), which has a Tg of 100 °C and prints around 250 °C. I got a small sample and it printed well with the recommended settings. I didn't do any thermal testing with my print (I made a knob for a lawn mower with it) but Taulman has a solid reputation for engineered filaments. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Your ABS filament is likely to be different than the ABS the paper is talking about, at the minimum the filament has added coloring (ABS is not naturally white), its possible it has other additives to make it easier to extrude and - especially for low cost ABS - it's also possible it has other random contaminant. The "same" material from different manufacturers is often very obviously different (for low cost filament, different batches from the same manufacturer are sometimes different) so, even if someone here did have experience with cooking ABS for a year, you can never be sure your ABS will work the same as their ABS. If the information is not in the material data sheet you can try to contact the manufacturer, other then that, you really have no way of knowing other then trying for yourself. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: heat it up see what happens also take into consideration additional support in case it degrades its still holding up. if possible give it somekind of protective coat. someone said paint but can you add a coat of resin or ceramic? Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: To answer your question briefly: **No, ABS will not survive for a duration of at least one year at 80-100°C**. ![1]](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6X0uY.png) If you look at the chart above (from Tiganis/Burn), you'll notice, that the blue line (ABS 90°C) is decreasing. I did an eyeball calculation of the graph and arrived at the equation (`J` for *break energy*, `h` for *hours*): ``` J = -0.002h + 14 ``` Based on that, a break energy of 0 Joule will be reached after *7056 hours or 294 days*. If you roam around internet forums on 3D printing, you'll find that that value is in the ballpark of people's experiences. I remember one case, where someone put out a piece of ABS in the sun and it broke down after a year. Tiganis; Burn: The Effects of Heat Aging on Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene (ABS) Blends. In: Lacasse; Vanier (1999): Durability of Building Materials and Components 8, pp. 912-922. Upvotes: 3

2017/11/29

<issue_start>username_0: I’m trying to have [this bracket](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2576121) printed, but I don’t know what settings I should use. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yTFRkm.jpg) The project details say 50% for infill, but is there a reason why I wouldn’t get 100% for making it sturdier? I imagine the developer used 50% because he used his own printer and wanted to preserve more material. The 3D printer service I’m using doesn’t charge more for 100%. But I’m more concerned about the material I should select. Should I select PLA or ABS? The developer didn’t specify this.<issue_comment>username_1: For such a small item and the small load it will carry, even 50 percent is substantial. Keep in mind that one hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger. If you need to know why, consider a 'net search for "why not use 100% infill" for more detailed information. The primary foundation for not using 100% infill is that the stress is better distributed over the structure of a non-100% part, while the completely filled part has more intra-layer stress failure. Another link suggests that there's a possibility of increased warping with full infill. Because the load is small, it matters very little if you select PLA over ABS. PLA is more brittle compared to ABS and will crack or fracture or break under loads that might otherwise cause the same part in ABS to bend. If you need yet more strength, select PETG or nylon, although I suspect either one would be more expensive from a service. If you select ABS, you can use acetone smoothing later to make a shiny surface, but that's cosmetic, not structural. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You should use PLA at 215 °C (for better layer adhesion) with 35 percent infill and a shell thickness of 2 mm. Shell thickness is what's crucial here, not necessarily infill. The thicker the shell, the stronger the part. This has a much bigger influence on strength than infill does. Upvotes: 2

2017/12/01

<issue_start>username_0: I am using **Flashforge Creator Pro** and a **Flashforge Finder** [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CE1Aa.jpg "Flashforge 3D printers") I want to know which NEMA stepper model is used in each of these two printers, or is it NEMA 17 for both? Their model numbers are: * `42HB40F08AB-04 [W-42MM, L-40MM]`, and; * `42HD4027-01[W-42MM, L-40MM]`<issue_comment>username_1: It most likely uses a nema 17 stepper motor. These are the most commonly used stepper motors. Since it is also the same company there is good reason to believe it uses the same steppers. Why must you know, anyways? Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Nema 17 is about the physical size of the motor, ie screw hole placement. It doesn't specify anything about the power of the motor. If you are looking to replace the motor, you need quite a bit more info than that it is Nema 17, such as the steps/rotation and the holding torque. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: If you can access the stepper motors within the printers, then you should be able to obtain some basic measurements of its dimensions, in particular, the mounting holes. Then compare it with the dimensions of a NEMA 17 stepper motor: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mn386.jpg "NEMA 17 dimensions") Image from [RepRapWiki - NEMA 17 Stepper Motor](http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor) The dimensions of other stepper motors, NEMA 11/14/17/23, can be found here: [RepRapWiki - Nema Motor](http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_Motor). The emphasis is mine: > > * Some (all?) NEMA 11 motors (is this specified in the standard?) have blind mounting holes about 4.5 mm deep, tapped to accept > M2.5x0.45 metric bolts. **The 4 mounting holes are in a square 23 mm** > (0.905 inch) center-to-center. > * Some (all?) NEMA 14 motors (is this specified in the standard?) have blind mounting holes about ???? mm deep, tapped to accept M4 > metric bolts. **The 4 mounting holes are in a square 26 mm** (1.024 > inch) center-to-center. > * Some (all?) NEMA 17 motors (is this specified in the standard?) have blind mounting holes 4.5 mm deep, tapped to accept M3x.50 metric > bolts. **The 4 mounting holes are in a square 31.0 mm** (1.220 inch, > about 7/32) center-to-center. The holes in the part that needs to be > bolted to the NEMA 17 motor typically need to be reamed out with a > 1/8" drill bit to allow the M3 bolt to pass through. The drive shaft > is typically 5 mm dia. > * Some (all?) NEMA 23 motors (is this specified in the standard?) have through mounting holes, a smooth 5 mm (0.2 inch) diameter. **The > 4 mounting holes are in a square 47.1 mm** (1.856 inch, about 1+7/8 > inch) center-to-center. The drive shaft is typically 1/4 inch (6.35 > mm) dia. > > > However, knowing whether the stepper is a NEMA 17 or not may not be sufficient as there are very many variations of the NEMA 17, w.r.t. manufacturer and model. Again, please refer to [RepRapWiki - NEMA 17 Stepper Motor](http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor) to see a list of some of the NEMA 17 steppers available, and in common use in 3D printing. The characteristics (Torque, Steps per revolution, Inductance Resistance, Voltage, Rated Current, etc.) vary greatly between models (*even* with the same NEMA type - 11/14/17/23), and some are more suited for particular applications than others. --- With respect to your [comment](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5055/nema-stepper-used-in-3d-printer/5839#comment7206_5058), why is NEMA 17 most common? Well, NEMA 23 steppers were used in some of the early [desktop-sized] printers, but then it was found that NEMA 17 steppers, which are smaller (leading to more compact, slightly less power hungry and lighter designs), offered less vibration whilst still providing *sufficient* torque. Smaller steppers (NEMA 14) *can* be used, but probably lack the torque to power a standard sized printer and can be only really used with very light-weight small printers. NEMA 23 steppers are still used in larger [industrial] scale printer designs. Again, from [RepRapWiki - Nema Motor](http://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_Motor) > > The first working RepRap used NEMA 23 Stepper motors for positioning and a different kind of motor for the extruder. As of 2013, most RepRap designs call for NEMA 17 Stepper motors or NEMA 14 Stepper motors for both positioning and extruding. > > > Upvotes: 1

2017/12/01

<issue_start>username_0: I have been working at converting game files into 3d files that can be printed, but many of the models have very thin or walls. I was wondering if there was a way to increase the thickness of the walls using meshmixer or meshlab.<issue_comment>username_1: Only today, I learned of a solution for this sort of objective, but it uses Fusion 360 rather than Meshmixer or Meshlab. As your question does not include that program, I'll toss the Meshmixer method. This image is of the model prior to modification: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XsIS5.jpg) When you load your STL file into MM, use Edit, Generate Face Groups. This will cause the surfaces to change color. Click Accept. With face groups created: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/W5gZL.jpg) If you can be assured of all one surface, use Select, then double click on the interior. This should turn the entire interior red. If you discover unselected surfaces, simply click on those surfaces until all is completed. If you select a surface in error, use Shift-Click to clear that one surface. Once selected, the select menu gives you a new edit menu. Use Edit, Offset for yet another menu. As you make changes in the menu settings, you'll see the results on the model. Ideally, you won't have an overly complex model with too many facets/triangles, as it can really bog a machine down. This particular model has a nearly uniform interior. Double clicking on the inside surface caused the full cylinder (not the bottom) to be selected (turning red). Low accuracy offset, with surfaces still selected: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/54Lv0.jpg) For smoothest results, keep the accuracy high. Any protruberance in the interior will give very strange results. High accuracy results, surfaces selected: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vLrMk.jpg) Experiment with the settings, aim for the best result and click accept. As long as you don't export the model over your original, all experimentation is a learning experience and not a destructive one. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I figured out how to do it by using the make solid tool. Edit: I selected the whole model using control and selected make solid. Set the mode from fast to accurate. I set the solid accuracy and mesh density to anywhere from 300 to 500. Then I slowly increase offset distance until the holes are sealed. I leave the minimum thickness at 0 because it doesn't appear to help much. When I'm satisfied, I click accept. I usually use the reduce feature to make the file smaller, but it isn't required. Sorry about leaving an unhelpful answer. Hope this helps people. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]

2017/12/02

<issue_start>username_0: I recently bought an Anet A8 (<https://pevly.com/anet-a8-3d-printer-review/>). I've managed to get everything up and running, leveled the board, but am now running into a problem. At the start of the print, the printer moves to 0,0,0, bumps into the switches a couple times (I assume to calibrate or so?), and then starts "printing". But the nozzle "randomly" moves to either an X of 0 or an Y of 0 before returning to the printing position. This movement seems to pull off any basis the printer managed to lay down, which then forms a nice "ball" on the nozzle, to which the rest gets stuck. (I'm still having some other issues with getting the filament to stick to the bed, but there's plenty I still have to try out for that.) During one attempt of printing a very simple small cube, I carefully pulled the filament "ball" from the nozzle while it did one of those movements to X 0, and afterwards it managed to lay down the bottom layer perfectly fine. This causes me to believe those movements are the biggest problem I'm facing right now. After it did the first layer, it moved up a bit, moved to X 0, back to the model, and got stuck on a piece of plastic that was standing upwards. These movements seem to happen at around the same phase in the print, and happen quite consistently. Is this normal behavior? If so, how do I make sure the filament does not get pulled off during these weird movements? If not, how do I get rid of them? (No, not a duplicate of [Printer randomly moves to home during printing, then resumes as normal](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/962/printer-randomly-moves-to-home-during-printing-then-resumes-as-normal) as I print directly from PC.) --- Edit to add more information: I use Cura 3.0.4 for printing, the stock Anet A8 firmware, and am attempting to print the cube model that comes with Windows 10. (Yes, I've tried different models, same result.) I seem to have more issues, in the video it's visible that the feeding does not seem to work too great, but I think the random movements are the most clear and biggest problem right now, so I should tackle that first. In Cura I've used the Pruisa I3 printer, with the following G-codes: ``` G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G29 G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 M117 Printing... ``` and end ``` M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning ``` (Yes, I added in the G29 in the start code manually, as I bought the official auto-leveling sensor. I'm not sure if it works though, but I read somewhere that I might need a different version of the firmware to support it properly.) [And here's a video showing what my printer does do exactly.](https://youtu.be/lrk8iG1H4ig) It started printing from the center in this case, it seems to randomly either move to the middle or to 0,0,0 when I abort the print.<issue_comment>username_1: I see two problems in your video: 1. It looks like the first layer is built too much upwards. (The level calibration should be so that a Z-height of 0 can barely fit a sheet of paper under the nozzle. ) 2. Your printer is not extruding at all. As you said, the extrusion has some problems. Extrusion problems will cause adhesion problems too. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I switched to different firmware (the latest Marlin), now the problem has been resolved. So it seems to me that those random movements are not in fact normal, but a flaw in the firmware. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: The main problem shown in the video is because you are printing an oversized part, the random movements to X and Y is due the exceeded lines. Also the nozzle has a wrong Z0 and the part won't get adhesion to the bed. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Formating SD card fixes issue for me. I think that writing many times to the same block of SD card corrupt some block of flash SD card memory. Upvotes: 0

2017/12/02

<issue_start>username_0: I drew a fairly simple model in Google SketchUp. I exported it as an STL. I imported it into Cura and exported as gcode. Then I printed the model. All of the bottom layers of the model cover the entire space instead of leaving the two open gaps that should exist. I don't know why it's happening. Do I have some weird setting in Cura? The section that is filled, but shouldn't be, isn't a raft. I printed without a raft because my model goes to the max extent that my printer can print and I don't have room for a raft around the edges. Here is what it looks like in SketchUp: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EumMr.png) Here is what it looks like in Cura. The two empty areas are shaded darker than the other empty areas of the build plate. Is that an indication of my problem? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGgFE.png) Here is what was printed. The empty areas are solid and filled in as if the center piece extended to the inner edges of that area. (The jacked up corners are due to the model warping a bit and no longer being in the right position for subsequent layers.) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4nQbY.jpg) Here is a video of the layers according to Cura, and Cura clearly knows the gaps should be there: <https://youtu.be/r0a9gGFerHI><issue_comment>username_1: I suspect, as I am wont to do, that your problem lies in the STL created by SketchUp. It's an unfortunate aspect of that program that it creates non-manifold models which creates troubles such as this. Consider to load your STL file into a program suitable for showing flaws (and repairing them) to determine where the failure points lie. I'm fond of Meshmixer, but there are many others such as Netfabb with which I am less familiar. If you don't want to check your STL file, attach it to your post and I'll take a shot at it. You would also want to consider to learn a new program if you intend to perform such 3D modeling. Fusion 360 has a popular following. I'm a fan of OpenScad, but use Fusion 360, Meshmixer, Blender (only a tiny amount) and anything else I can utilize for model repair, creation and editing. Build a large repetoire of different programs and get the best of all worlds. SketchUp has a strong following primarily because it's rather easy to use. The same can be said of a few other programs, but SketchUp really generates trouble when it comes to 3D models. TinkerCAD is very much like SketchUp and will give you better final results. OnShape is another popular modeling program, but I have zero exposure to that one. It's not out of the question that there's a bug in Cura that's causing this problem. You are not limited to one slicer program, and you can check the results of another slicer such as Slic3r, Craftware or others. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You have a problem with your STL file. Check the orientation of the faces of your 3D model, if that is not the problem, search for a software to fix your stl file. Just a tip, give Fusion360 a try, it is the best! Upvotes: 0

2017/12/05

<issue_start>username_0: I work on communication devices for people with disabilities that prevent them from speaking. This can be anything from a board with symbols on, to a relatively sophisticated app. Some potential users also have sight issues and have to distinguish symbols by feel (these particular users have cognitive disabilities and so braile isn't useful) . Currently the solution is to, by hand, stick items onto the buttons. Like this: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cFS0d.png) This is effective, but takes a very long time. There exists open symbol libraries [like this](http://straight-street.com/), that include nice svg images like [this one](https://www.dropbox.com/s/e5emeku99xxmeub/traffic%20lights.svg?dl=0) (not uploaded, because SO doesn't like svg, but here's the screenshot: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/746CY.png) A friend converted some of these images into 3d prints like so: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cv41n.jpg) This was amazing, and useful, but I understand quite time-intensive for him - and there are thousands of these symbols. Here's what I want to know: given that SVG is a relatively simple structure and the symbols are very simple, what are the steps for writing the script that says: "Take the svg, map it to a plane, raise everything that is black by 2mm, everything that is gray by 1mm and add height for the rest of the colours according to this table" ? Bonus points for something that I can reasonably get going on a set of 10000 svg files and come back to later...<issue_comment>username_1: If you install inkscape, pstoedit and ghostscript version 9.21 (not the latest as pstoedit is incompatible) you can get the file into a format that openscad can import using two commands in a cmd file ``` "C:\Program Files\Inkscape\inkscape" -E "traffic lights.eps" "traffic lights.svg" "C:\Program Files\pstoedit\pstoedit" -dt -f dxf:-polyaslines "traffic lights.eps" "traffic lights.dxf" ``` then in openscad ``` linear_extrude(3) import ("traffic lights.dxf"); ``` will import gives me [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3BM0c.png) With a thickness of 3mm - you can see the model needs some scaling but its seems possible although - I can't see an option to scale based on color - Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Nothing thats works via scripting BUT is really simple and easy. 1. register on tinkercad.com (I know register is a bummer but its a great tool) 2. open a new design 3. import \*.svg file 4. adjust height or size of the converted object 5. download .stl Thats going to take a while for 1000 files but its so simple, printing the stuff will take forever, so you´ve got some time :P Edit: Maybe edit the topic to something like "SVG to STL conversion" which would make the thread more likely to be found. Upvotes: 0

2017/12/07

<issue_start>username_0: Can Repetier host run a multi-material printer such as the Prusa i3 MK2S?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, you can add a second extruder to it. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Yes, it can. I have configured it for as many as four extruders. The problem may be in the slicing, as the slicer is responsible for generating the tool change commands. One problem with the Repetier multi-extruder support is that, although the temperature of each extruder is reported by the RepRap firmware response, only the selected extruder is updated, and only one extruder is shown in the temperature graph. Upvotes: 1

2017/12/10

<issue_start>username_0: I accidentally let the print head of my Anet A8 crash into one of 2 clips that are holding a glass sheet onto the hot bed, and suddenly the screen went blank and the printer rebooted, then it started reading 739°C from the extruder thermistor. I tried changing the thermistor, but that didn't have any effect. Also tried swapping the extruder thermistor with the hot bed thermistor, but there was no effect on both. I checked both the connector and the socket of the thermistor for shorts but found none. Any ideas about the reason this is happening? -Using Skynet3D 2.3.2 on the stock Anet board. **EDIT** I tried burning the bootloader and flashing the firmware onto the Anet V1.0 board using an Arduino UNO as an ISP, but that had absolutely no effect. **EDIT 2** I measured `R41` located next to the hotend thermistor header [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XscH.jpg) and found out it has a resistance of 1.5kΩ, while it should have a resistance of 4.7kΩ, so I suspect this is the main reason behind this high reading. Now the only thing left to figure out is how the resistance of this resistor changed. I was able to figure out which resistor to measure with the help of this schematic: <https://github.com/ralf-e/ANET-3D-Board-V1.0/blob/master/ANET3D_Board_Schematic.png> **EDIT 3** I tested `T56` (located near the headers) and `T55` (located near the ATMEGA1284P) for continuity, and found out there's no connection between those, while they should be connected according to the schematics. I also checked the hotbed's terminals `T54` and `T53` and found continuity between them, which means the problem might be in the trace between the thermistor header and input pin of the ATMEGA chip (this trace is VERY thin, so any overcurrent might cut it), or any component in this trace.<issue_comment>username_1: > > and found out it has a resistance of 1.5kΩ, while it should have a resistance of 4.7kΩ, so I suspect this is the main reason behind this high reading. Now the only thing left to figure out is how the resistance of this resistor changed. > > > You can't measure the resistance of a resistor in circuit - the resistance probably appears to be lower to your multimeter because of some other circuit elements. There's also no reasonable explanation for how a 4.7k resistor could suddenly turn into a 1.5k one. It's highly unlikely this resistor is the cause of your issues. It is more likely something else is damaged, likely the AtMega1284p microcontroller itself. When your extruder touched the bed clip, perhaps the 12V from the bed shorted through the clip and to the extruder? I would guess that the 12V shorted itself to the thermistor input, which subsequently blew the ESD protection diode on that input. This might explain the high reading and the low apparent resistance of R41. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same issue. Hot-end temperature reading stuck at 209 degrees even with hot-end thermistor disconnected or swapped with bed thermistor on the Anet A8 mainboard. After ordering and swapping the AtMega1284p (using jtagice3 and hot-air soldering station) and the 4.7 Kohm resistor (which measured 2.06Kohm on the board and 4.7kohm off the board) to no avail, the only component left in the circuit that could cause the failure was the capacitor. **Swapping the capacitor C47 fixed the stuck reading for me**. I used a 10uF instead of a 15uF capacitor as indicated in the schematic. I do not believe it makes much of a difference, and they are much more common. Make sure the capacitor can withstand at least 10V, but I got a 30V one, because the price was similar. To any body that runs into this issue, before spending time and money swapping components like I did, **measure the voltage of the node between R41 and C47 with respect to ground**. This is labeled T56 or test point 56. Compare this voltage to T54, T60, T58, and T62 where similar circuits are placed. You should get a voltage of around 5V ( the pull-up voltage) in the functioning circuits, since we are talking about DC voltage, the capacitor should charge up nearly instantly when the the board is powered, and behave as an open-circuit. In my case, C47 was almost in full short-circuit, and I read a low voltage on T56 ( ~0.5v). Since the capacitor was in a low impedance failure mode, the 5V supply voltage of the voltage divider circuit was not enough to power it, hence the fixed temperature readings of the hot-end thermistor ADC channel regardless of the thermistor being connected or not. Good luck! Upvotes: 2

2017/12/10

<issue_start>username_0: I have created a design with fusion 360. I tried to print it with my M3D Pro printer but it seems the designs have a flaw. If I try to print the bottom part, the second layer is wrong. It seems to have moved to the left by a few centimeters. Here is the link to the `.stl` files and pictures of how the first few layers turned out. <https://seafile.fmk.me/d/09e43aa7fc8e416ab187/> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uOtTN.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IrAGq.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYEfD.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vtCyf.png) The `bottom.stl` file can be loaded and viewed in the m3d software but leads to faulty print after the first layer. The `top.stl` cannot even be viewed in the M3D software. Other 3D files from thingiverse etc. can be printed without a problem. Do I need to enable any special features to be able to print those files correctly? Yours, Felix<issue_comment>username_1: > > and found out it has a resistance of 1.5kΩ, while it should have a resistance of 4.7kΩ, so I suspect this is the main reason behind this high reading. Now the only thing left to figure out is how the resistance of this resistor changed. > > > You can't measure the resistance of a resistor in circuit - the resistance probably appears to be lower to your multimeter because of some other circuit elements. There's also no reasonable explanation for how a 4.7k resistor could suddenly turn into a 1.5k one. It's highly unlikely this resistor is the cause of your issues. It is more likely something else is damaged, likely the AtMega1284p microcontroller itself. When your extruder touched the bed clip, perhaps the 12V from the bed shorted through the clip and to the extruder? I would guess that the 12V shorted itself to the thermistor input, which subsequently blew the ESD protection diode on that input. This might explain the high reading and the low apparent resistance of R41. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same issue. Hot-end temperature reading stuck at 209 degrees even with hot-end thermistor disconnected or swapped with bed thermistor on the Anet A8 mainboard. After ordering and swapping the AtMega1284p (using jtagice3 and hot-air soldering station) and the 4.7 Kohm resistor (which measured 2.06Kohm on the board and 4.7kohm off the board) to no avail, the only component left in the circuit that could cause the failure was the capacitor. **Swapping the capacitor C47 fixed the stuck reading for me**. I used a 10uF instead of a 15uF capacitor as indicated in the schematic. I do not believe it makes much of a difference, and they are much more common. Make sure the capacitor can withstand at least 10V, but I got a 30V one, because the price was similar. To any body that runs into this issue, before spending time and money swapping components like I did, **measure the voltage of the node between R41 and C47 with respect to ground**. This is labeled T56 or test point 56. Compare this voltage to T54, T60, T58, and T62 where similar circuits are placed. You should get a voltage of around 5V ( the pull-up voltage) in the functioning circuits, since we are talking about DC voltage, the capacitor should charge up nearly instantly when the the board is powered, and behave as an open-circuit. In my case, C47 was almost in full short-circuit, and I read a low voltage on T56 ( ~0.5v). Since the capacitor was in a low impedance failure mode, the 5V supply voltage of the voltage divider circuit was not enough to power it, hence the fixed temperature readings of the hot-end thermistor ADC channel regardless of the thermistor being connected or not. Good luck! Upvotes: 2

2017/12/13

<issue_start>username_0: I've heard alot about simplify 3D recently. It sounds like it's a great software, but 150 dollars!? The only thing that seems too different from other slicers is the placable supports, but Z suite has that now as well. Cura must be coming out with placable supports soon if they're going to stay in the game. It does also have dual extrusion, but so does just about every other free slicer out there. I just don't understand what makes it worth 150 US dollars.<issue_comment>username_1: The free slicers are catching up with Simplify3D, and are even overtaking it in some areas, so purchasing it may not make much sense to hobbyists. However, for professional print shops, where printers may cost twenty times as much (or even more), 150 dollars is nothing (especially since it is 150 dollars per PC, not 150 dollars per printer). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Well, simplify 3D has more than only placeable supports and I'm very happy with it. I Made my 3D printers and I had headaches with free slicers due I had to review the final result on pronterface, of course this programs was unable to run perfectly on P4 PC's with XP. When I started to change for other programs I recurr to use Cura, getting a nice prints but I had problems with Z offsets and a lot of burrs or "spider threads". Then I could get simplify 3D, since the first printing I never changed again to other slicers and even Cura. I have set multiple setting for diferent filament types according their better flow temperature and printer type since I use the same program in one PC for 3 printers and planing to get 2 aditional printers. Printers are almost free, software not. Upvotes: 0

2017/12/13

<issue_start>username_0: I found this low temperature filament for 3d printing, [Low Temperature Filament 0.5kg 1.75mm, White](https://www.sainsmart.com/products/low-temperature-filament-0-5kg-1-75mm-white) Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure I can use it for a *really* precise nozzle because it's so runny at normal printing temperature, the thing is, you obviously can't get nozzles at the size I'm taking about, so with that said, who could I hire to make one?<issue_comment>username_1: I have been looking for some where that could make a custom nozzle and the only place I have found so far that I think might be able to is: <https://www.emachineshop.com/> You would need to draw up the design of the nozzle in the software on their web site and see if they could make what you want. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You won't need specialized nozzles, you understand the material wrong: The benefit the properties of this material grant is not super fine prints (which you can get with small nozzles like 0.1 mm already), it is that you can print at super low temperatures. Printing it at standard 200°C will mean, that it won't solidify in the time the printer needs it to, and your walls will all melt down - in worst case it boils off and degrades into useless goop! You might print PCL onto an already completed print made from a different material with higher printing temperature (if your slicer lets you do that...), like to make a form-shaped piece. It's low melting point also means you could print parts with it that you *want* to deform under low heat, like a standard shaped flat shin and then just dunk it into 60°C water or put onto a (towel shielded) pocket heater before molding it around the patient, making perfect fits from easy transportable (flat) parts. Or you print "rivets", which you heat, put through the holes in other prints and then flatten with a pair of pliers. Also, it is one of the cheaper conductive filaments. You might find [this article](http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2016/6/24/the-unusual-properties-of-pcl-3d-printer-filament) or the [RepRap Wiki](http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone) enlightening. Beware though: Many printers have a MinTemp set! For example the Ultimaker at 175°C, and you have to force the machine to ignore this with M302. Upvotes: 3

2017/12/15

<issue_start>username_0: I'm very new to 3D printing and I've had numerous failed prints. Sometimes, the print is good but while trying to get it off the base I end up bending or breaking the print. My question is: How to I print and make it easier to release from the plate? I'm printing with PETG, PLA and ABS. At the moment, it's PETG that is giving me trouble. My printer is a QIDITECH Dual Extruder. I found this: <https://all3dp.com/1/remove-3d-print-from-bed-stuck-glass/> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6fudqMEGyI> I haven't tried any of the proposed solutions yet.<issue_comment>username_1: I would reccomend heating up the base a bit. If your printer doesnt come with such an option, try heat-gun. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The [all3dp article you linked](https://all3dp.com/1/remove-3d-print-from-bed-stuck-glass/) to is very comprehensive and shows what are the "approaches" to print removal, rather than just the tools. For the sake of keeping all info accessible here, the article highlight these 6 approaches: * Brute force * Wedge the joint apart * Thermal difference * Chemical reaction * Mechanical cut * Bed warping To that list I would add a final class of solutions that I would call "sacrificial surface": use some removable substrate like painter's tape and remove that from the bed rather than the print from it. Once the print+surface is off the printer than is normally very easy to scrape or sand the material off the print. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I am new myself and here is what helps me: 1.) Make sure your z-offset is correct, you want it to just be enough to stick, you do not want the nozzle pushing the filament into the base any harder than it has to. 2.) For pieces that are too short or otherwise shaped so as not to be able to grab and pull off easy, I generally will use a raft as I find the rafts are easier to pry off than the piece itself, even if the piece already has a large surface area exposed to the bed. 3.) Get a print removal tool if you don't have one (mine came with one). I don't have a glass bed but would likely want to be careful here. It's basically a metal spatula. These can be purchased on amazon under 3d printing accessories.. I know some other people will use Kapton tape or magigoo which are available on Amazon. I'm NOT CERTAIN that these are to help with removal (magigoo says its an adhesive that's designed to release the print after its cooled). Kapton tape I'm just speculating as I see it advertised everywhere for 3d printing, so I would research further on these. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: In the end I found using the tape was a great help, getting the level correct is also a big help. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_5: I use multiple layers of Elmer's white glue on the glass bed (five layers I think). The glue is PVA which provides a textured surface onto which the PETG adheres. It sticks better when the bed is hot than when the bed is cold. I use a bed temp of 58 degrees on my Anet A8. I have found out that the temp reported by the Anet is lower than the temperature that I measured the surface of the glass to be with my temperature probe. The PETG removes some of the layers of PVA when it comes off. For this reason I'm constantly needing to add more glue to the area that was printed, until the surface is so uneven that I have to remove the glass plate, clean it and start over again. If you take this advice, never flip the glass plate over onto the bare aluminum with the glue on it, as it will stick very firmly! My colleague in work who has the same Anet A8 uses a glue stick in place of white glue. He also has a good experience printing PETG in this manner. I have tried his glue stick method, and found it difficult to clean when it's time to clean the glass. Now I live by my white glue method. To apply the glue I use a foam artist's brush to make the layer nice and even. I let each layer dry before I apply the subsequent layers. After each use I quickly wash the brush because the glue will harden in the foam and cause the brush to wear out. I also use this method with PLA, and TPU. Upvotes: 0

2017/12/16

<issue_start>username_0: Are 3D printed gears applicable for industrial use? I want to print some gears with ABS. * What will their lifespan be? How long will they last if I use them, for example, every day?<issue_comment>username_1: Well, to determine the time life of the gears you will need to do a test called ALT (Accelerated Life Time) but the parts should be last for a long time (not years) however this can be determined by thickness. The torque required is not than much like a tuning up the radio volume, so if you are going to create a gear box to increase torque, just grease the parts to reduce heating on friction. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Survivability of parts is a very tricky topic, because a lot of factors go into it. While ABS is a common industrial plastic for molding, FDM introduces quite different challenges that can impact the time a piece lives. I can't estimate a lifetime for you, but I will illustrate why we can't estimate it for you, giving you things to think about in your design process: Problem 1 - What's the printed internal part geometry? ------------------------------------------------------ FDM introduces boundries in 2 (**r**,**z**) dimensions . Not just the **z** layers above each other do have boundries that can and will become plane of failure, each layer consists of one filament1 that was deposited side by side to itself. These neighboring pieces (distinguishable by **r** in cylindrical coordinates) have a boundry that is not of the same strength as staying on the same piece and following it around (and changing **ψ**) a solid chunk of ABS (as you would get with molding). under stress, these boundries can crack. If you want to force your piece to have such a fate just to see how it looks: mount a 0.4 mm nozzle in a machine calibrated for 0.35 mm and run a 0.35 mm sliced print - it should be easy to crack it apart into a long snail of filament. Or declare your filament to be 3mm in a 1.75mm machine. The Horrible underextrusion and lack of pressure against already deposited filament makes it possible to unravel the whole filament at times. Problem 2 - What is the intended use? ------------------------------------- Use is not the same as use. Yes, it might sound unintuitive, but depending on *how* a piece is used, stress on the part is different. Let's take the same two gears. We put one of them in a hand mixer and a superlight drone. In the mixer it will spin rapidly against medium to tough loads (depending on dough) over medium periods (the timeframe here is usually minutes at max) of time. In the drone it will have considerably less load, but it will spin for much longer, maybe up to hours if the pilot is very capeable and the batteries last. In both cases wear and tear will be quite different. Problem 3 - What determines strength? ------------------------------------- Strength of the part is not only determined by the filament used, it is ALSO determined by tons of other variables. Print orientation. With enclosure or not. Humidity during print. If the surface of the part is sealed or not after the print. If it was postprocessed somehow to increase capabilities. If the piece is printed hollow or solid. How long did it cure or harden after the print... There are so many variables, that each guess would be quite wild. Problem 4 - How to get the lifetime now?! ----------------------------------------- You can't guesstimate the reliability of a product from its design and makeup only. That is why design departments create prototypes: **To rigerously test the products.** This is how they learn how safe or sturdy their product is. They make prototypes and *purposefully* put them under various kinds of stress until they break. For gears this involves spinning them in a gearbox for hours nonstop until they break, force them against a blokaded gearbox till they break, run the gearbox dry, hot or freezing, and also under other very destructive conditions. Part of this destructive test is an accelerated life time test that, just like other tests in this stage, tries to find out the maximum parameters it is useable with. A common test for hand mixers apparently is to run them 2 minutes against some gooy substance, then stop some time before repeating. --- 1 - For the math inclined: the filament can be represented as a function in cylidrical coordinates, f(r,φ,z)=r(ψ)\*φ(ψ)+z(ψ), where ψ the path-parameter of the filament - or in other words the length already traveled. To some degree, a G-code is generated by first creating such a function and then creating the tool path from this. Upvotes: 3

2017/12/17

<issue_start>username_0: I am writing my own slicer and wonder if there is a mathematical proof that proves that the intersection of the slicing plane with the STL file will only produce closed-loop polygons for every given slicing plane? Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: You can't prove that because it isn't true. An STL file is just a collection of triangles. There is no guarantee that an intersection with the slicing plane will consist of closed-loop polygons. To be suitable for 3D printing an STL file should represent one or more closed, disjoint polyhedra (which would yield closed-loop polygons) but this is not always the case. Many slicers have heuristics to try and "fix" bad STL files on a best-effort basis. Especially considering the possibility of rounding errors, it is important to at least detect polygons that are almost (but not quite) closed and connect their endpoints together. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I am also trying to write my own slicer and so I would just like to offer some additional information. What you will find is that .stl files just store triangles and don't validate that the triangles assemble to create a printable model so a lot if not most .stl files are going to have data that isn't exactly what you want it to be. So you will want to have additional steps before you get to slicing, to fix up the data you get from the stl file. A lot of stl models are designed for 3d graphics where intersecting other triangles and not being manifold isn't an issue. So you will probably want to write some code to test your models before trying to slice them. For example if you just sliced the layers of the [Utah Teapot](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:821) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/d7qm0.gif) and don't repair the model for 3D printing first you will get two different types of errors. The handle of the teapot does not actually attach to the teapot and is a separate model. And the spout of the teapot is a separate model that intersects the teapot. Both the handle and spout are also open at the ends and not water tight. Upvotes: 2

2017/12/18

<issue_start>username_0: Hello I am using Cura to slice my prints, and despite turning the flow rate to the minimum value of 5%, my prints are still hugely over extruding. I have calibrated the extruder stepper perfectly, using Pronterface, so I do not understand why this is occurring. I have also timed how long it took to extrude a certain length and compared it to the length of time it was meant to extrude and it was exactly the same. Therefore, I have concluded it is not a problem with the calibration of the stepper. So, I think there is a problem with the settings on Cura. Orginally, I had the flow rate at 100% and this was really, really terrible. Then I turned it down as far as possible and the print got better but there was still over extrusion. I can't down it down any further. I can not figure out what the problem could possibly be and as you would imagine it is very, very frustrating. Here is the print profile: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VUpdO.png) **Edit** - Some extra information So the printer is not of any model, as it is homemade CD drive 3D printer. It shares many similarities with the Curiosity3D printer, so if you want more information on how it works, then their website will be of much value. [Link](http://www.instructables.com/id/Curiosity-120-eWaste-Educational-3D-Printer/) The extruder is a bowden style one. It uses a cheap e3d hotend [Link to amazon](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Finlon-Hotend-Extruder-Printer-Filament/dp/B0734MR3JR/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1513678249&sr=8-1&keywords=e3d%20hotend) and a RepRap extruder kit as the motor [Link to amazon](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gaoxing-Tech-Printer-Extruder-Stepper-Bracket-Motor/dp/B06XSJ9M2T/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1513678339&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=extruder%20motor%20kit%C2%A8). Here are the Machine settings: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yqlpf.png) This is a photo of two failed prints. On the left is a G and on the right is a heart. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIMsi.jpg) This is what it was the G was meant to look like: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KgHH.png) **Edit 2** - More information So here is a link to the configuration.h file which I previously modified for my 3D printer.[Dropbox link](https://www.dropbox.com/s/jdeaqu8dodjm8ln/Configuration.h?dl=0) Also the filament I use is "Robox PLA SmartReel Cornflower Blue" [link](http://www.desktop3dprinter.com/cel-robox-smartreels/robox-pla-smartreel-cornflower-blue.html) Any help would be much appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: First of all: Can you tell us, what kind of printer do you use and which material? Please give us some pictures of some prints as well.. Also the type of the Extruder setup is relevant. Is it a Bowden or Direct Driven extruder? For an FDM machine like the Prusa styled printers with PLA: * Flow of 5 % is totally wrong, normally PLA should be run between 90 % and 105 % flawlessly. The problem is elsewhere but not with the Flow settings, nor the Temp is the faulty one. + Temp between 185 °C and 210 °C should be fine for most PLAs + Did you set up your printer correct in Cura (Preferences -> Printers -> Machine Settings)? Material Diameter, Nozzle size and G-Code flavour are correct? If you give us some more information, I will be glad to get this solved. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The fact that your printer is a scratch build using low-power stepper motors would tend to indicate that the problems lie in your hardware and/or firmware. It is very difficult to provide advice for such printers, simply because most 3D printer owners will have zero experience with them. Possible candidates for the causes of your problem are fairly obvious: * Check that the stepper motors are not skipping, and that you have the correct number of steps per millimetre. * Check that your extruder is not skipping, and has the correct number of steps per millimetre. * Check that your firmware is matching filament flow with extruder speeds correctly. * Check that your firmware is configured correctly. How you do this for a scratch build is largely down to you. One thing that I would advise is that you reduce the jerk and acceleration values, since they look to be far too high. You have done well to get so far with such a build, but you may have to ask yourself if there is anything to be gained in continuing with your project. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I guess that either you have the hotend too far away from the first layer (so looks like underextrusion), then wrong layer height / wrong z-configuration so the layers are too small, making plastic pile up (seems like over extrusion). Eventually if the Z-Driver skips steps, it could look the same (printer trying to print the same layer several times). There is also some skipping in the drivers, as your layers are not correctly on top of each other, check if you can 'up' the amperage in the drivers, or slow everything down (speed, acceleration & jerk) til it works without skipping. My best bet is that you should 1) first make your drivers stop skipping, 2) then carefully calibrate your machine using the configuration.h (line 527) so that x,y,z,e are all roughly okay at least. Then start printing :-) On a side note, you can also activate the EEPROM and store the new values with GCode, this is mostly a 'convenient' thing because you don't need to recompile and flash your board at every change, so maybe do that later when everything starts to work out OK. HTH Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I fixed this issue a while back but I realised others might see this. I’m not exactly sure what fixed it though. I was meddling with the ee-prom when suddenly it started working again. I suspect somehow a different steps per mm value was stored on the ee-prom so no matter what I did to change it (in the firmware) it made no difference. Then I either changed the settings in the ee-prom or disable it. I can’t really remember. When it started working it looked like nothing was extruding because 5% extrude rate really is very low! Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_5: I've been building 3D printers for a few years and working in the computer science field for over 2 decades. Here's a simple trick I use for adjusting your extruder steps. 1. Tweak your flow rate till it's where it should be. Then mark down the percentage it's at. 2. Go into your configuration file and use that percentage to adjust the number of steps. So if $x$ is the number of steps and our flowrate is at 40 % to be extruding normal then: $x \* 0.4 =$ new step count 3. Save the file and compile. Upvotes: 1

2017/12/20

<issue_start>username_0: I'm designing a few mechanisms with OpenSCAD, and one of the parameters that need adjustment between printers/filaments is allowances between pieces that need to be assembled together (for example, if I want a "5 mm diameter pin" to fasten two pieces together, how much larger than 5 mm will the holes / how much smaller than 5 mm will the pin need to be). Currently I approach the problem by setting a global variable `allowance` and manually using it in the code, something like: ``` module pin(radius) { cylinder(r = radius + allowance) } module hole(radius) { cylinder(r = radius - allowance) } ``` I have no real world experience with design though, so I wonder if there are common or **coding** best practices to account for allowances when designing parts like for example: * specific modules to be used, * conventional names for variables * specific techniques to be used (scaling? vectors?) * conventions (like only use tolerances on the fastener, not the fastened object) * ...? To clarify: I'm not looking on advice on how to plan the dimensions of my designs. Rather, I am looking for advice on how to organise the OpenSCAD code generating them.<issue_comment>username_1: Well, the tolerances will depend on material to be used for fabrication of the required part and also where the part will go and fit. Remember the all parts need some clearance to fit properly. Few years ago (10 years) I was working as Quality Engineer and some Design Engineers were complaining about a Dupont pin was not fitting on the PCB so they told me that I need to force the PCB manufacturing to increase the holes to the higher tolerance. Which I had to ask him firstly the pin size and told me 0.70 mm and hole size 0.80 and maximum 0.90 - hmmm and maximum size of the pin? I asked, and they told me proudly 0.78mm so the part will fit perfectly. - Oh, so one square pin of 0.78mm will fit on one hole of 0.9mm, but what about the diagonal dimension? if the pin on the higher dimension is close to 1.2mm. Imagine what happened later, engineering changes and modifying other designs due improper tolerances. pro-engineer software was unable to calculate what the designers needed. Material has shrinkage, warpage, and other conditions that is needed to know like malleability and hardness and some of this data is on the specification material or the part specification. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: It helps to understand the different aspects of dimensions, so you can use the terminology correctly. This will help you define your variables in OpenSCAD with correct names. (Tolerance is the wrong term to use.) And once you have correct names, you'll understand how to specify the dimensions in OpenSCAD. * *Tolerance* is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension. * *Allowance* is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value. * *Clearance* is the intentional space between two parts. * *Interference* is the intentional overlap between two parts. Two other terms * *Accuracy* is the maximum dimensional variation between parts. A machine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy. * *Precision* is the size of the steps your machine is capable of. It is often confused with accuracy. In your case you need to define the *allowance* in order to create the *clearance* you desire. To design your 5 mm pin and 5 mm hole, you need to understand your machine's accuracy. The printer could print the pin larger than 5 mm or smaller than 5 mm. Or it could print the hole larger than 5 mm or smaller than 5 mm. You'll need to print some pins and holes and measure the differences between what you defined and what you printed. The difference between the largest and smallest measurements you take is your machine's accuracy. And be sure to check the accuracy in your X, Y, and Z dimensions; your printer might have a difference between them that would impact the roundness of the parts. Let's say that your printer's measured accuracy is ± 0.2 mm. Then, we move to clearance. What is the minimum gap between parts you are looking for, and what is the maximum you can accept? Let's say you want a clearance of at least 0.2 mm between the pin and hole, but no more than 1.0 mm. Since your accuracy is ± 0.2 mm, your pin will be 5.0 ± 0.2 mm, so the hole must therefore be 5.6 mm ± 0.2 mm. The minimum tolerance condition would be an minimum sized hole (5.4 mm) and a maximum sized pin (5.2 mm); the maximum tolerance would be a maximum sized hole (5.8 mm) and a minimum sized pin (4.8 mm). Note that a clearance of 1.0 mm might be too sloppy for your application. You might think to tighten the tolerances to 0.05 mm in order to reduce the clearance. But if your printer can't produce a part that meets your specified tolerances, you would need to find a different way to manufacture or finish the parts. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I’m not aware of a standard in Openscad but I can share what I have done in the past. ``` cutoutActualDiameter = 10; cutoutDiameterClearance = 0.1; cutoutDiameter = cutoutActualDiameter + cutoutDiameterClearance; ``` I know this is verbose but unfortunately in my experience that is a necessity if you want your code to be maintainable in Openscad. The benefit of this is that up until you need any clearance added you can just use the variable `cutoutDiameter`and then if and when you do need clearance added you can rename that variable and you don’t have to change any of the code where the variable is consumed. Would love to hear how others manage this though. Upvotes: 2

2017/12/21

<issue_start>username_0: I upgraded from Cura 2.7 to 3.1.0 and I'm getting horrible under extrusion, I'm sure this is the software because I rolled back to 2.7 and everything is working fine again. My printing is a Robo3D R1+ using the "custom FDM printer" profile. Is there any new setting or a setting that isn't migrated properly that causes this?<issue_comment>username_1: Some users have reported upgrades to Cura changing the filament size to the default 2.85 mm. If you are using 1.75 mm filament (which most printers do), you will get extreme under-extrusion. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I hit this issue again in January 2019 with CuraEngine 3.6+git. Since support for multiple extruders was added, it now auto-loads a per-extruder settings file that overrides the main settings file **and the command line**, so `-s material_diameter=1.75` on the command line did not help. Given `$foo.def.json`, it seems to construct the filename `%$foo_extruder_0.def.json`, and if that does not exist, loads `fdmextruder.def.json`, which sets `material_width` to a default of `2.85`. I was able to solve the problem by either patching `fdmextruder.def.json`, or making a copy of it named to match my printer's settings file, with the `2.85` changed to `1.75`. Update: There should already be extruder files for supported printers, but they're in a different directory, so they won't be found when invoking `CuraEngine` from the command line unless you've set the `CURA_ENGINE_SEARCH_PATH` environment variable to include the path they're in. Alternatively you can copy them to the same directory as the main printer json files. Upvotes: 3

2017/12/21

<issue_start>username_0: I have a K280 3D printer with a MKS V1.5 and Repetier firmware. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yCoXM.jpg "Damaged transistor associated with E0 (3rd one on the right)") I’ve damaged the transistor associated with E0 (3rd one on the right) and so that means I need to avoid that. I’ve decided to switch to E1 for the extruder but I have a feeling I need to go in the firmware or Repetier host and manipulate that. I don’t know how and any help would be great. The only info I can access for the firmware is the EEPROM and it seems that I can’t edit the pins. Also, do I need to edit the pin for the sensor or just where the extruder goes?<issue_comment>username_1: You can try editing the gcodes by searching and replacing E0 for E1, so this way the extruder E1 will be enabled. Other way is setting the Slicer to use 2 extruders but everything for printing on E1 like: Perimeter, Infill, Solid, Support/raft/skirt, Support / raft interface. The third one, Switch the transistor from E1 to E0 (your Q2 for Q1) or Q3 if you are not using the FAN output. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If you go through the [Repetier-Firmware configuration tool for version 1.0.2](https://www.repetier.com/firmware/v100/index.php) you can select the E1 stepper for the E0 extruder (or whatever stepper you want to use for it) in the tools tab sheet. I'm not familiar with Repetier, but if that does not work you would have to switch pin numbers. If you already have a Configuration.h, you can use that one (by loading it into the configuration tool) and alter the E1 afterwards so that you do not have to enter all the other options by yourself. **Edit:** After some investigation, you can find your configuration file [here](https://www.facebook.com/groups/1787070361537465/) as described [here](http://he3d-delta-printer-owners.wikia.com/wiki/Configuring_the_Repetier_Software_for_the_first_time), so the only thing you would have to do is to load the file in the online tool and adjust the E1 stepper for E0 extruder. Upvotes: 2

2017/12/22

<issue_start>username_0: I have built a couple of 3d printers now and I'm having a little trouble with one I'm currently on. I frankensteined this one with two of my other printers that I had built. I took the Arduino mega and ramps 1.4 out of the older one and wired it up to the newer one. When I plug the printer in and try to move the stepper motors they will go in the positive direction and skip and make loud noises when going the other direction. I have taken and separated out all the wires to make sure it wasn't a stray signal. I have also tried turning the voltage up and down on the drivers with no luck. I also swapped cables in case one might have been broken. The next step when I get home I'm going to try is connecting the old steppers and see if they work. After that I am pretty much at a loss. I already search Google and found a couple of things I could try, but figured maybe someone here might have an answer to why this might be happening. Steppers motors from the old printer are the same as the new one the only difference is manufactures. Update: The printers are: HE3d Prusa XI3 Max Micron Foldbot I'm just using the LCD, Ramps 1.4 and Arduino Mega 2560 R2 from the He3d and putting it on the Foldbot. With some other features but those shouldn't matter as they would work on both printers. The board from the Foldbot is the Arduino Mega 2560 built into the Ramps board MXP\_PRO\_V3.0. I'll try and get some pictures. Also switching steppers didn't work. Going to try to get X,Y,Z axis working separately see if i can find the problem that way. Update: Ok so I attached the old axis up and did a test with the endstops. Basically I think the new endstops must be the opposite of what the other printer was cause when i hold the end stop down the motor rotates in both directions and when i let go then it rotates only in a positive direction. I will see if this is part of the issue. I also believe that one of the motors is bad and that's why it wasn't making any sense when i first diagnose it.<issue_comment>username_1: From an electrical standpoint, a two-phase stepper motors (what most 3D printers use) works the same backwards and forwards, the phase just reverses. If you are stalling on only one direction, I would look to see if you have a mechanical bind in that direction. Generally a wiring issue will cause the motor to either not run at all or to run in the wrong direction. A few things you can check: 1. Decouple the motors from their mechanical load and confirm that they all run correctly when they aren't driving a load. If you can't do that, disconnect them all then connect a spare motor to each cable one-at-a-time. 2. Turn each of the axis with your hand and make sure it turns smoothly throughout the entire range in both directions. Note: Some times a binding issue is acceleration related - a loose frame or coupling can cause this. 3. Monitor the supply voltage to make sure that one of the motors is not pulling the supply down causing all the others to stall. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Sounds like you are configured for NC switches but are using NO switches, causing them to invert their reported state. Issue a **M119** command and see if the endstop statuses are correct when none are triggered. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Had a similar issue with one of the stepper motors on a Flashforge Creator Pro. Just finished a print as the head was returning to the home position and sounded like it was jammed up, inspected in jog mode and it would move left but not right then neither direction, disconnected, check for free movement and all was good found this thread and was thinking it might be a bad motor but turned out to be just a bad wire going to the motor. Upvotes: 1

2017/12/24

<issue_start>username_0: I just bought new TEVO Tarantula and tried to print xyz cube. I found that my cube's layer was shifted as showed in picture. How can I fix this ? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/u53fC.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: From an electrical standpoint, a two-phase stepper motors (what most 3D printers use) works the same backwards and forwards, the phase just reverses. If you are stalling on only one direction, I would look to see if you have a mechanical bind in that direction. Generally a wiring issue will cause the motor to either not run at all or to run in the wrong direction. A few things you can check: 1. Decouple the motors from their mechanical load and confirm that they all run correctly when they aren't driving a load. If you can't do that, disconnect them all then connect a spare motor to each cable one-at-a-time. 2. Turn each of the axis with your hand and make sure it turns smoothly throughout the entire range in both directions. Note: Some times a binding issue is acceleration related - a loose frame or coupling can cause this. 3. Monitor the supply voltage to make sure that one of the motors is not pulling the supply down causing all the others to stall. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Sounds like you are configured for NC switches but are using NO switches, causing them to invert their reported state. Issue a **M119** command and see if the endstop statuses are correct when none are triggered. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Had a similar issue with one of the stepper motors on a Flashforge Creator Pro. Just finished a print as the head was returning to the home position and sounded like it was jammed up, inspected in jog mode and it would move left but not right then neither direction, disconnected, check for free movement and all was good found this thread and was thinking it might be a bad motor but turned out to be just a bad wire going to the motor. Upvotes: 1

2017/12/26

<issue_start>username_0: I work for a company that makes items from plastics. Many or our current runs are between 500 and 5000 copies, but knowing the company, if we find a good method to do smaller runs, they are willing to see if it is a good commercial option. At the moment we do use several different methods but the technical people are not yet looking into 3D printing. While I am not sure printing is the right option just yet, I would be surprised if it will not be in the future. At this time I am interested in finding information to convince the tech people to look into the abilities of printers and what would impress them to look further would be printers that can produce in short times or at multiple stations so the overall run will be relatively short term. Our current items are mostly simple in shape, (disks with relief print) and small in size (no bigger than a 2 pound coin). Do you know an online magazine where the tech people can look or can you suggest a (few) printer(s) to look at right now? Links to online general information or names to search for will be great. Knowing our current bunch of tech people they will likely prefer commercial available printers but proven 'home build technology' might be useful as well.<issue_comment>username_1: From an electrical standpoint, a two-phase stepper motors (what most 3D printers use) works the same backwards and forwards, the phase just reverses. If you are stalling on only one direction, I would look to see if you have a mechanical bind in that direction. Generally a wiring issue will cause the motor to either not run at all or to run in the wrong direction. A few things you can check: 1. Decouple the motors from their mechanical load and confirm that they all run correctly when they aren't driving a load. If you can't do that, disconnect them all then connect a spare motor to each cable one-at-a-time. 2. Turn each of the axis with your hand and make sure it turns smoothly throughout the entire range in both directions. Note: Some times a binding issue is acceleration related - a loose frame or coupling can cause this. 3. Monitor the supply voltage to make sure that one of the motors is not pulling the supply down causing all the others to stall. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Sounds like you are configured for NC switches but are using NO switches, causing them to invert their reported state. Issue a **M119** command and see if the endstop statuses are correct when none are triggered. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Had a similar issue with one of the stepper motors on a Flashforge Creator Pro. Just finished a print as the head was returning to the home position and sounded like it was jammed up, inspected in jog mode and it would move left but not right then neither direction, disconnected, check for free movement and all was good found this thread and was thinking it might be a bad motor but turned out to be just a bad wire going to the motor. Upvotes: 1

2017/12/28

<issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to print a cylinder with Flashprint. Problem is, that the .stl file i created (with OpenSCAD) is totally ruined once loaded into Flashprint. With ruined I mean the round outline is now with spikes and steps everywhere. And by loaded I mean directly after loading, not even creating the .gx files. The output of OpenSCAD looks fine, also in other stl viewers I tried. I figured out the problem occurs more when using certain number of fragments ($fn). If its very small, loading works better. But for numbers that make it acutally look like a round circle (eg 50), Flashprint is unable to load them correctly it seems. It's obvious that its no slicing or printing problem, but simply a loading one, since the shown object (which does not look any round) also prints the way it is shown in flashprint before slicing. Does someone know a way to load a cylinder with flashprint correctly, or do I have to switch to different software? I already installed some but am unfamiliar with the printer settings which I do not know in detail. I really though a cylinder should'nt be too complex for any 3D software. Here is the OpenSCAD Code for Cylinder, just create .stl and load into Flashprint to reproduce the Error: ``` rotate_extrude($fn=70) translate([0, 0]) square([20,2]); ``` See also this image (tried native cylinder code, problem remains the same however): [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/v6qkG.png)<issue_comment>username_1: From an electrical standpoint, a two-phase stepper motors (what most 3D printers use) works the same backwards and forwards, the phase just reverses. If you are stalling on only one direction, I would look to see if you have a mechanical bind in that direction. Generally a wiring issue will cause the motor to either not run at all or to run in the wrong direction. A few things you can check: 1. Decouple the motors from their mechanical load and confirm that they all run correctly when they aren't driving a load. If you can't do that, disconnect them all then connect a spare motor to each cable one-at-a-time. 2. Turn each of the axis with your hand and make sure it turns smoothly throughout the entire range in both directions. Note: Some times a binding issue is acceleration related - a loose frame or coupling can cause this. 3. Monitor the supply voltage to make sure that one of the motors is not pulling the supply down causing all the others to stall. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Sounds like you are configured for NC switches but are using NO switches, causing them to invert their reported state. Issue a **M119** command and see if the endstop statuses are correct when none are triggered. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Had a similar issue with one of the stepper motors on a Flashforge Creator Pro. Just finished a print as the head was returning to the home position and sounded like it was jammed up, inspected in jog mode and it would move left but not right then neither direction, disconnected, check for free movement and all was good found this thread and was thinking it might be a bad motor but turned out to be just a bad wire going to the motor. Upvotes: 1

2018/01/01

<issue_start>username_0: I have a prusa 13 that's shipping in the mail, and I intend to make good use of it, one also own a da vinci jr. and the one time it got so clogged that the extruder itself was filled with pla, with that said I replace the extruder, for the da vinci, but besides that, as for my a prusa, what should I do if the extruder, not the nozzle gets clogged that badly?<issue_comment>username_1: From an electrical standpoint, a two-phase stepper motors (what most 3D printers use) works the same backwards and forwards, the phase just reverses. If you are stalling on only one direction, I would look to see if you have a mechanical bind in that direction. Generally a wiring issue will cause the motor to either not run at all or to run in the wrong direction. A few things you can check: 1. Decouple the motors from their mechanical load and confirm that they all run correctly when they aren't driving a load. If you can't do that, disconnect them all then connect a spare motor to each cable one-at-a-time. 2. Turn each of the axis with your hand and make sure it turns smoothly throughout the entire range in both directions. Note: Some times a binding issue is acceleration related - a loose frame or coupling can cause this. 3. Monitor the supply voltage to make sure that one of the motors is not pulling the supply down causing all the others to stall. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Sounds like you are configured for NC switches but are using NO switches, causing them to invert their reported state. Issue a **M119** command and see if the endstop statuses are correct when none are triggered. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Had a similar issue with one of the stepper motors on a Flashforge Creator Pro. Just finished a print as the head was returning to the home position and sounded like it was jammed up, inspected in jog mode and it would move left but not right then neither direction, disconnected, check for free movement and all was good found this thread and was thinking it might be a bad motor but turned out to be just a bad wire going to the motor. Upvotes: 1

2018/01/02

<issue_start>username_0: I added a custom boot screen to marlin by adding `_Bootscreen.h` to the project root folder and it works fine. The problem is that the custom screen shows quickly and disappear then the marlin boot screen is then displayed for a longer time. I want to remove the marlin boot screen. I dug around in the source code and found a `void lcd_bootscreen` function in the `ultralcd_impl_HD44780.h` header. This seems to be the function that is loading the marlin's boot screen due to the comments in the code. I added `return;` to the **first line** of code in this function but the marlin's boot screen is still loading. How can I remove the marlin boot screen. How can make my custom boot screen wait for more time? The marlin version is 1.1.8.<issue_comment>username_1: So after some search: 1. You can't (at least should not) remove the Marlin bootscreen according to this issue [`SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN` hides Marlin logo](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8186), quote: > > We wanted an additional logo - not a replacement of the Marlin logo. > > > 2. According to the [code here](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h#L282-L306) there's a constant `CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN_TIMEOUT` taking the default value of 2500 which is 2.5 seconds but you can redefine it in your `_Boostrap.h` file. This constant is only available for DOGM lcd screens which is chosen by the code here in [`ultralcd.cpp`](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/ultralcd.cpp#L95-L100) and without more details on your machine it's hard to tell from [`Conditionals_LCD.h`](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Conditionals_LCD.h) which will be used. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You can add return; command in the `ultralcd_impl_DOGM.h` file. ``` void lcd_bootscreen() { #if ENABLED(SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN) lcd_custom_bootscreen(); #endif return; // Add this line ``` Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I was able to remove the Marlin bootscreen and still retain the custom one by commenting out the following line in `marlinui_DOGM.cpp` (`Marlin/Marlin/src/lcd/dogm/marlinui_DOGM.cpp`): ``` void MarlinUI::show_bootscreen() { TERN_(SHOW_CUSTOM_BOOTSCREEN, show_custom_bootscreen()); // show_marlin_bootscreen(); } ``` Tested and working as of Marlin 2.0.x. Upvotes: 2

2018/01/03

<issue_start>username_0: I am new to 3d printing having only recieved it for christmas. The filament is jammed somewhere in the extruder of my Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. I have tried removing it with the included hook but was unsuccessful. Is there anything else I should try before I before I dismantle the extruder, which i very much want to avoid.<issue_comment>username_1: Try to preheat your printer, the temperature should be above 180°C then push the filament to come out from the nozzle just 4 to 7 mm, then take out the filament from the extruder. With this step the plastic lump will get soft and will release the filament. Then use the tool to clean the nozzle pushing the residue inside the nozzle. This is a common problem if someone tries to change the filament without feeding a little bit (3-5mm). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I follow the techniques spelled out in this video on Tom's 3d: [Basics: Cleaning out a clogged nozzle!](https://toms3d.org/2017/01/09/basics-cleaning-clogged-nozzle/) Essentially you: * Heat up the hot end past the point you normally print at. * Manually (gently) push filament out of the hot end. * Turn off heat & continue applying pressure to the filament, until it quits extruding (it has cooled off). * Set the heat on the hot end to normal printing temprature for the filament & immediately start pulling **firmly** on the filament, but not too hard. * As soon as it melts enough, it will just "slip out" & bring any stuck crud with it. I went ahead and bought some white nylon filament so I can heat it up hotter (good for cleaning out ABS) and since it's white, I can see the nasty crap it pulls out. Upvotes: 2

2018/01/03

<issue_start>username_0: I have just received a 3D printer for Christmas (Robo R2). I am confused by the sheer amount of settings that I can tweak and I'm hesitant to do so until I know more about them. I was wondering if anybody has any recommendations for literature on: * 3D printing in general (geared towards beginners); * Designing parts specifically. Books are preferred but websites are acceptable as well.<issue_comment>username_1: Welcome to the fantastic, sometimes frustrating but most often glorious world of 3D printing David! :) Your question is really very very broad, but here's my contribution to make your first steps a success. First of all: I don't have experience with the Robo R2, but judging from the specs available online, I would say that you got a username_1hine that take care of most of the troubles beginners encounter when starting out (e.g.: levelling the bed) and has a few features that allow you to print more reliably/with better quality (heated bed, enclosure, possibility for a second extruder). Give a hug to whoever made the gift to you! ;) I like to think to 3D printing as a process that involves 4 phases (well, normally several iteration of them as *prototyping* is a thing): * Designing (creating the mesh, i.e. the shape of the object you want to print) * Slicing (creating GCODE, i.e. the file with the step-by-step instructions for moving your printer nozzle in space, extruding the plastic, controlling temperatures and cooling, etc...) * Printing (the actual process of having your printer running that GCODE) * Post-processing (finishing the piece, by for example removing support material, sanding, vapor-smoothing the surface, painting, etc...) Technology in the 3D printing world is moving so fast that printed information tends to get outdated quickly, and the Internet is often the best source of information. So in the following bits I will mention the the source of information that I use[d] for myself, of which many are online rather than in print. **DESIGN** Broadly speaking, there are two kind of designs one can do: **decorative** or **functional**. Decorative designs are those in which the final object will essentially sit still on a shelf or be handled very gently (e.g.: a model of the Tour Eiffel, a miniature for RPG gaming), functional designs are those in which the final part will have to bear a load or perform some sort of mechanical work (e.g.: a drone, a shelf bracket, a pipe adapter...). Both designs need to take into consideration the physical limitations of FDM printers such as the fact that the nozzle is round and with a fixed diameter, or the fact that molten plastic needs to rest onto something, thus the need for support. Additionally, functional design requires an understanding of the physical properties of 3D MFD printed parts (hint: they are anisotropic, so their properties differs along their axis). If you are interested in functional designing a book that I can highly recommend is [Functional Design for 3D Printing by <NAME>](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Functional-Design-3D-Printing-Designing/dp/0692883215/). It is concise, accessible and full of information you'll be using from your very first design. In terms of tools, for decorative, organic forms, you will probably want to use a program like [Blender](https://www.blender.org/), that manipulate meshes directly, while for functional designs will probably turn to CAD software, like for examaple [FreeCAD](https://www.freecadweb.org/) that operate on a "model" and let you export the finished part as a mesh at the very end. Both Blender and FreeCAD are free software (like in: "free speech") but commercial versions do exist as well (most notably from Autodesk). Blender is professional grade software with a very steep learning curve and I would suggest to take an structured online course like [this one](https://www.udemy.com/blendertutorial/learn/v4/overview) about it, rather than trying to learn it the DIY way. FreeCAD belongs to a category of CAD programmes that operate on a well defined, well understood, set of principles (so it works similarly to OnShape and Fusion360 for example) and it is much easier to learn. In my experience CAD modelling is best learnt by understanding the very basic, and then just researching further information as you go, according to the needs of your project as CAD design is full of small specific operations that is useful to know only if you actually need them (e.g.: how to draw a screw thread, or to perform a loft). I started out with [this series of video tutorials](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HEvhclR4-o&list=PL6fZ68Cq3L8k0JhxnIVjZQN26cn9idJrj) by the late <NAME> (a celebrated contributor to the FreeCAD community), but there are tons of other tutorial should you choose to go with a commercial product. **SLICING** Slicing is as much an art as it is science. While the actual work of generating the GCODE is automated and requires just the click of a button, there are a myriad of settings that are mutually interdependent in their effect. For example: filament temperature, movement speed, cooling fan, retraction and coasting all affect oozing, but each of them also affect other things (bridging, layer adhesion, curling, nominal overextrusion, etc...). Also: settings differs for each filament material, each brand, and sometimes even different spools from the same material/brand. Moreover, you may wish to tune them depending to what you are printing (maybe you are printing a finely detailed miniature and want to go slower to reduce vibration, or maybe you are printing a torsion bar and want to increase the temperature for increasing layer adhesion, for example...). IMO the best way to understand how settings affect your print is playing around with calibration towers ([example](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1956512)) and torture tests ([example](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023)). Calibration towers work by printing the same thing on top of each other but changing at each repetition a specific setting (like filament temperature, or extrusion multiplier). You will then visually inspect the final piece and evaluate how the print quality changed relative to that parameter. Torture tests work by putting in the same piece a number of features that are hard for the printer to print correctly (thin walls, bridges, overhangs, to name a few). A specific model that is sort of gold standard as a basic test is the [3D benchy](http://www.3dbenchy.com/). The good thing about it is that it comes with a full website that also tell you how you can evaluate the print. However, the benchy - differently than torture tests - is not designed to let you discover the limits of your printer, it is more of a quality-control test. If you can print a 3D benchy, you should be good to go for printing "regular" objects. Also, at least in the two most common free-as-in-freedom slicers ([Cura](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software) and [slic3r Prusa Edition](https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases)) each setting comes with some explanatory text while hovering on it, that helps a lot understanding what that setting does). **PRINTING** How much you can affect the actual printing process depends from how "open source" is your printer, and if it uses standard components or not. Consumer-grade printers get often upgraded/modded to improve print quality or tweak them for a specific job/material. Typical upgrades are extruder upgrades, stepper motor upgrades, vibration dampeners, different sensors, etc... Each printer is unique, but normally you can find abundant information wherever the community of owners of a specific model gathers. I would also advise to subscribe to some good youtube channel about 3D printing like [Tom's](https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer) or [Makers Muse](https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMakersMuse) or [Joel's](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_7aK9PpYTqt08ERh1MewlQ), and to visit sites like [All3dp](https://all3dp.com/) regularly. As I mentioned, 3D printing tech changes constantly, and it is good to keep tabs on new materials, new software, new components, etc... **POST-PROCESSING** This is entirely dependent from the material you used for the print, its size, and its intended use, but I wanted to mention this nonetheless as there are amazing things you can do with [acetone on ABS](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj53P2YzYGM), lot of [elbow grease on PLA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vgynnYzo08) or the [use of an airbrush](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oj1kgFHo3sU)... so you know 3D printing does not end with the print! ;) Hope this helps you at least a bit. Again: welcome to the the 3D printing world! :) Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I have found that "Troubleshooting and Maintaining your 3d Printer" by <NAME> has a good overview of: * 3d Printer Assembly and parts * 3d Printer Calibration * 3d Printer Software * Filament materials * 3d Printer Maintenance (both preventative and corrective) * 3d Hardware Troubleshooting * 3d Print Troubleshooting Upvotes: 2

2018/01/07

<issue_start>username_0: My Sunhokey Prusa i3 arrived with a corrupted disc. I'm awaiting a new one and finished the mechanical build via YouTube videos. I've no clue which motor controls the X, Y, and Z, axes. I"m not even positive which axis is which. YouTube vids don't show the origin of all the wires/cables/cords they connect. Anyone know of any CLEAR and Normal speed (or slow-able) vid/diagram that shows the electronics wiring in detail?<issue_comment>username_1: X-axis is right-to-left (Carriage motor) Y-axis is front-to-back (Base/Bed motor) Z-axis is up-and-down (lead screws) There are several videos on YouTube. This [playlist](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meKht2ObOWw&list=PLEHodQXu836zPQmIkCwLAE2ze_qOxoOvY) seems good. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This diagram would appear to show the connections to the controller board. Taken from [3D Printer: Sunhokey prusa i3 2015 review](https://hackaday.io/page/1569-3d-printer-sunhokey-prusa-i3-2015-review) > > [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6iKdC.png "Hardware connect") > > > Refer to Mark's answer for what axis/component each stepper motor controls. Upvotes: 1

2018/01/07

<issue_start>username_0: The bottom of my prints warp/curve upwards, most often at the corners. This is a very slight curve, only about 1-2 mm. * I print with a raft all the time. * I don't have a heated bed. * I print with PLA at 199 °C (390 °F) with a print speed of approximately 40 mm/s * I have a Sindoh 3DWOX DP201. What slicer settings might be the cause of this phenomena? Or could it be 3D printer settings?<issue_comment>username_1: If you have a heat bed, heat it up accordingly (for example for PLA 50 °C first layers, 40 °C then can be a good starting point). If the first layer isn't close enough, then warping can happen (Happened to me when moving from 0.3 mm layers to 0.1 mm). If you are under extruding / have dirt in the system (the heat chamber) so that extrusion is uneven it can make warps. And as always, you can try to print slower, it helps not always but often. Please also do tell what temperatures (heat bed & nozzle) you are using and what material. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: **The first thing to understand is what causes warping**. Warping is caused by the thermal contraction of the plastic when it cools down. Simplifying things a fair bit, you can visualise the process like this: 1. hot, expanded plastic gets deposited on cooler, shrunk layers, 2. when the hot plastic cools down, it shrinks and pulls the upper part of the layer below inwards 3. at this point, the layer below has a differential in the compression between its upper and lower parts, and curls up 4. the problem is exacerbated at the very first layer (the one touching the bed) as this is "locked" to a rigid body (the bed) and cannot shrink, while subsequent layers are only attached to the somewhat flexible plastic beneath, and thus can contract. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/knXcU.png) Also notice that the larger the part being printed, the stronger is the force trying to curl-up your print. Once one understands all of this, then it is possible to appreciate the many ways the problem can be mitigated. Here are the common ones: **USING A MATERIAL WITH LOW SHRINKAGE COEFFICIENT** This translates in smaller tensions and thus less force "pulling up" the corners of your print. Historically, 3D printing started with ABS because this material was one of the very few, relatively safe ones to source. Nowadays there are materials like PETG which have similar mechanical properties to ABS but are much easier and forgiving to print with, so - unless you need ABS for some very specific reason (e.g.: acetone smoothing) consider never printing with it. **DECREASING THE THERMAL DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MOLTEN AND SOLID STATE** Concretely, this means lowering the "gap" between the ~200°C of the nozzle and the ~20°C of room temperature by using a heated bed and - possibly - an enclosure. The heated bed not only drastically diminish the shrinkage of the first layer, but because heat radiates, and hot air goes upwards, the entire bottom of the print has shrinkage mitigated. An enclosure just increase the benefit of the heating bed, by reflecting IR radiation back towards the print and preventing hot air to escape. A heated enclosure just improve things even further. Some slicers offer a "shroud" option, that encloses the entire print in an enclosed, sacrificial structure, that tries to emulate the benefits of a proper printer enclosure. **INCREASING ADHESION WITH THE PRINTING BED** That is the "brutal force" approach: if you face a strong "curl up" force, oppose it with a strong "anchor down" one. The increase in adhesion can be achieved in a number of ways: * Lower print speed (more time for the molten plastic to "bond") * Overextrusion (more pressure, more material) * Disabling cooling fan (more progressive cooling, more time to "bond") * Using a brim (more contact surface between print and bed) * Using "ad hoc" material on the bed (PVA glue for PLA, ABS sludge for ABS, kapton tape, hair spray, blue tape, etc...) **REDUCING THE CURL-UP FORCE** This is typically achieved during design. Designing is a vast field and it would be impossible to cover all the possible mitigating strategies one could use, but here are some of the most common ones: * Prefer assembling smaller parts over printing huge ones. This is self explanatory really, as the curling force increases with the amount of material "pulling", the least material one has, the less force one gets. * Make relief holes above the first layers in long structures. This will essentially "break" the build-up of tension in the layer, creating many points with a little "curling up force" rather than two with a huge one. Something along the lines of this, for example: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKSuL.jpg) * Avoid extensive overhangs close to the bottom of the print (this is because otherwise you will have considerably more material "pulling up" than you will have "anchoring down". Here is an example of what *not* to do (to be fair: this was specifically taken from a [bed adhesion/warping test](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1504207)). [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/t7IDh.png) Of course all of the above strategies can/should be combined, when possible. Even if not warped, a part with a lot of internal tension will perform less predictably and possibly worse than a part where such tensions are lower. Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]

2018/01/07

<issue_start>username_0: I created my model in onshape then exported it to stl file then imported it to simplify 3d to convert to gcode. However my model didn't go any in fill, it just continue to print layer after layer in the same fasion as the 1st layer. Correct me if am wrong infill is used so that the middle of your model isn't completely solid hence saving on filament. Is there something special I need to do in onshape or simplify 3d for it to use infill? To me it looked like it was just filling it up with pla<issue_comment>username_1: The infill portion of your model is configured during the Simplify3D process. After loading your STL file into S3D, edit the process and examine the Infill tab and Infill slider. You'll see a percentage indicator, as well as an extruder selection (left or right, if you have two) to be used for the infill. There are other options within the configuration that would have little to no effect on the problem you are experiencing. Once you have checked and corrected the settings as needed, used the prepare-to-print option and press the play button for a preview to see the infill being printed before you send it to the printer. 100% infill is impractical, and one can create strong models with as low as 20% infill. Infill is used to save filament, as you suggest, but it is also used to provide support for top layers on areas that are not vertical. Sometimes, one would use a higher infill figure to provide for smoother top surfaces although increasing the layer count for top/bottom can accomplish that. Check your top/bottom layer figure in the layers tab to ensure you have a reasonable figure. Three or four layers are good for cosmetic reasons, more if you need additional strength. Anything higher or absurdly high would cause some of the trouble you describe. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't use either of the two piece of software, but the first things to pop to mind: * **Inspect the slicing preview**: it should be self-evident if your GCODE is being generated correctly. In my slicer the infill is red and you can discern the typical pattern within: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jIfh2.png) * **Check your settings**: your shell thickness should be something reasonable (like 0.8mm / 2 shells) and your infill should also be below 100% if you don't want to print it solid. For maximum strength, it doesn't help go much over 60%, typical values for light-duty parts are 20% and 30%. * **Check your STL file**: your mesh should be a closed surface, a "shell". Or the slicer won't be able to know what is "inside" and "outside". Many slicers verify this for you automatically and have a built-in utility to attempt to "repair" a broken mesh. I use [slic3r Prusa Edition](https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases) and this information is visualised at the bottom right: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mTl9K.png) * **Let the print finish**: the wording of your question is ambiguous, but it sounds like you may have stopped the printer before the part finished. Certain combination of settings can be deceitful. For example, a layer height of 0.05mm and a shell thickness of 2mm means you will see the printer making 40 (forty!) layers of solid printing, before starting to create the infill. * **Try another slicer**: in case your slicer went berserk because of a bug (unlikely but possible), this should fix it. On an unrelated note: the use of infill has a lot of different reasons besides "saving filament", for example: * relative to an empty print, even a very light infill (5%) provides a lot of added rigidity, * relative to a solid print, infill reduces weight and relief the tensions that are trapped in the FDM/FFF printing process * certain infill patterns allow to provide different responses to stressed in different directions (like for example a crash box that needs to give way in one direction but bear a load in another, or a wing that need to flex on its length but not on its chord) * infill provide support for top layers and other concave structures that may otherwise be non-printable * ... Upvotes: 1

2018/01/07

<issue_start>username_0: Whenever a 3D printer that uses linear rails is announced (case in point: the [cetus](https://www.cetus3d.com/cetus-3d-printer.html)), the Internet (well... at least that corner of it dealing with 3D printing) gets abuzz with excitement. I researched a bit the topic myself, and while I understand that linear rails can be produced to a fantastic degree of precision for super-heavy machinery, it escapes my comprehension why they are considered superior "by default", relative to the classic linear bearings on a shaft. 3D printing is a lightweight application, and the motion of at least 2 axis does not happen against a solid surface (where you could bolt a linear rail every few cm) but suspended between the 2 ends of the axis. Furthermore, the internals of the bearings used on linear rails are substantially identical to those used on a shaft. The cetus site says under the heading "Quality Linear Rails": > > Self-lubricated | Maintenance Free | High Precision | Long Lifespan | Quiet > > > but this - in my experience - can be said of "Quality Linear Bearings on a Shaft" as well, and in some cases even bushing deliver to a high standard on 3D printers. So, what am I missing?<issue_comment>username_1: The following is a compilation of the input from a number of sources. Linear rails in general are mechanical components that - when designing equipment - offer great flexibility. **The profile of the rail can be designed in nearly infinite ways.** This in turn allows for: * *Different levels of stiffness in different directions* (for example you may have stresses only on a given plane, or you may actually want the rail to slightly flex in one plane but not in another one). * *Placing the surfaces for the rollers strategically*, for example in a location that is unlikely to get contaminated, or where the maximum force will be applied. * *Curved paths*, so that the carriage can move along a line that is not straight. Because the contact surface between the rollers and the bearings is flat, **cylinders can be used instead of spheres**. This in turns diminishes the mechanical stresses, and the amount of play, increases longevity and allows for more bearing capacity, among others. Linear rails **can be anchored along their full length**, rather that at their extremes, thus increasing the accuracy of their positioning, their stiffness and their bearing capacity. Linear rails **can be username_1hined while pre-loaded**, thus achieving maximum accuracy when in use, rather than when coming out of the factory. **The bearings on a linear rail only allow for one degree of movement**. There need to be two rods with linear bearings/bushes to achieve the same result. All that said, **when it comes to the specific application of consumer-grade FDM 3D printers, it seems that none of the above is very relevant, nor confers any real advantage to the printer in terms of quality of the final print**: * the mechanical stresses involved in 3D printing are very small, * the movements all happen along straight lines, * most of the axis cannot be anchored to a large, rigid body, * ... On the other hand, the design with rods + linear bearings is cheap, effective, simpler and lightweight, all characteristics that are highly desirable in a 3D printer. All in all, **it seems that there is no good reason to prefer linear rails over rods *in general***. Still, there may be *specific* designs that may benefit from their adoption. I postulate that the Cetus printer linked in the question may be such a design: the cantilever arrangement of its axis - for example - is well served by the fact that a single rail locks movement in all but one direction, and the orientation of the X rail offers maximum rigidity against the action of gravity. Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Linear rails will always produce a high degree of accuracy and stability and more so than round rod with PTFE bushings and/or bearings. One may argue the fact however even as a product developer and one who is involved with the mechanicals and development of username_1hinery on a day to day basis comparing the two we see “significant” improvements using rails over rods and if properly utilized on a Z axis print bed you will have a bed free of leveling issues that can smoothly and accurately operate with one driver versus two. I will further add that getting rods aligned perfectly is a difficult task for the average person and even a slight twist or angular position can affect final print quality. I’ve seen many linear rods that appear visually straight and when chucked into a lathe spindle with 0.0000 accuracy there will be 0.005 or more in runout. In fact I’ve yet to see one perfecting concentric motion that is longer than 6 inches. This tells me that they cannot plausibly be as accurate and that while they may function they will never function with a high degree of accuracy. Do we need higher accuracy in 3D printer axis? Sure we can have quality control boards that compensate to some degree however the mechanics of the username_1hine are utmost important before you choose the quality of board and software. Why install a \$300 motion control on a cheap linear rod printer if you’re not going to see the full benefits? With technology further advancing into 64 bit and eventually 128 bit and higher degrees of precisional accuracy 3D printing is turning a page and will if not already be capable of micro resolutional accuracy and can only do so if all the components function properly together. So sure, your rod guided printer works. However, it will never work as well as my linear rail guided printer with ballscrews and servos. You can have your layered fuzzy prints. I will keep my smooth finished injection molded looking parts that are made from materials a typical desktop cannot even print. So to argue it’s not needed is arguing that high quality isn’t accepted in a lower price point market. One other addition here. Ask yourself how level and square is your printer? I’m not talking about using a carpenter's level for checking your username_1hine they can be inaccurate up to a 1/4” per 10 feet. When you can dial your printers bed down to 0.00005 or less every direction and your structure is just as accurate than you know what a quality printer and print looks like. I guarantee no printer priced \$300-\$1000 comes even close to that degree of accuracy. The average consumer is so drawn into the technology of a final print itself they overlook the precisional aspects involved and learn to settle for less. Then you wouldn’t expect your \$500 printer to compete with my \$10,000 printer either. Bottom line you get what you pay for. Upvotes: -1

2018/01/09

<issue_start>username_0: After a long time tweaking my new 3D printer I solved all the unexpected errors and I can print succesful pieces but I am facing a "problem", they are over sized, I found this problem trying to print a Raspberry Pi Case and an smartphone case, the printed pieces are bigger than the objects. Here some related information **Printer**: Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B **Firmware**: [My GitHub](https://github.com/amendezcabrera/geeetech-prusa-i3-pro-b-firmware) (Marlin) **Software**: Repetier Host with Slic3r Does somebody know how could I solve it? Thank you very much<issue_comment>username_1: You have to know: * distance between belt teeth (usually 2mm) * number of teeth on pulley * motor step angle 1.8 deg? * microstepping count, probably 16? Then you can enter all these numbers info the calculator here: <https://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/> Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I finally solved it by manually adjusting the `steps per unit` in the printer firmware. The process is easy just move the extruder to one position and draw two marks, one at the extruder position and another one 10 cm in the X axis from the extruder position then with Repetier or with the the printer controls move the X axis 100 mm, if the extruder stops after the mark reduce the `steps per unit` or increase them if the extruder stops before the mark, do until the movement matches both marks. Repeat for the Y axis. You can see the changes I made to the firmware in my [GitHub](https://github.com/amendezcabrera/geeetech-prusa-i3-pro-b-firmware/commit/f6ba29998ccfd0dc0f0e2cba2c3ef3176f6e487f) Upvotes: 2

2018/01/09

<issue_start>username_0: I have a Monoprice Select Mini v2 and it came with a 256 MB SD card. I have a bunch of 16 GB cards. I have made sure that the new SD card has a FAT32 filesystem. I copy the gcode file onto this card and when I put it in the printer, it can't find any files! And yes, the file is at the root level of the filesystem and it uses the proper naming convention. The file works on the old card. Since the old card still works, this isn't an emergency, but I want to have a backup and I don't have any other cards that small.<issue_comment>username_1: The maximum size is 32 GB, however using microSD has a little disadvantage: 1. The microSD adapter and Micro memory are wrong assembled and the chip are unable to be read. Solution: stick with a tape adhesive to keep Micro memory and SD adapter well aligned 2. The SD adapter can't be read on the 3D printer Solution: Add an extra tape adhesive over the SD adapter just like sticker, to make tight the assembly inside the reader. Clean the contacts of the SD adapter, normally has the same issue like nintendo cartridge. I´m planning to get a bunch of SD cards instead microSD's, none of SD 8 GB and 16 GB are failing due wrong contact assembly. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Unfortunately, the answer isn't as simple as that a specific size of SD card works and another size doesn't. The [Marlin firmware wiki](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/wiki/SD-cards) mentions: > > The SD- or MMC- Card must be formatted as FAT and must have a MMC interface. This is more likely with cards <= 2 GB. > > > MMC is the predecessor of SD. SD cards are *not* necessarily fully backwards compatible with MMC. Apparently, Marlin uses some features specific to MMC, so your card should support it. The SD card support in Marlin is based on the [Arduino SD Card Library](https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/SD), which further mentions: > > The library supports FAT16 and FAT32 file systems on standard SD cards and SDHC cards. > > > Based on this: * Cards should be formatted FAT16 or FAT32. * Cards bigger than 32 GB definitely won't work (not SD or SDHC). * Cards at most 2 GB will probably work. * Cards between 2 GB and 32 GB *might* work, depending on the specifics of the card. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: 1. Get a copy of Partition Wizard (Free) 2. Take your 16G or 32G or ...? SD card and delete the existing partition. 3. Create a 2G partition and format it as FAT. Yes, you are wasting a lot of the SD card space but given the price of these things these days, who cares. And it will work. Upvotes: 0

2018/01/10

<issue_start>username_0: I have really strange problem. Thing is that my print (first layer) started ok, not good nor perfect but ok and everything was going well but then all of a sudden, near the end of a print, quality drops drastically. I'm not really sure but I think this happened because of under extrusion. I'm not so good with English so here are pictures of finished print and some more details.   I'm using custom build Delta printer with RepRap and Repetier firmware, CURA for slicing and Repetier-host for printing. Slicing parameters in CURA are: - ABS 250 °C hotend and 70 °C heatbed - Layer height 0.2 mm (initial layer 0.18) - Printing speed 50 mm/s (30 mm/s outer walls) - Infill 40 % - Extrusion multiplayer 0.96 (96 %) Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this?<issue_comment>username_1: > > Do anyone have any ideas? What this can be? How can I fix this? > > > At least judging from the pictures, that *does* seem like under-extrusion. Some ideas for further investigating the issue. **The problem may be due to the gcode being wrong**. In this case, your printer is merely executing correctly... the wrong commands. To check if this is the case: * The easiest, but inconclusive way, would be to re-slice a model that fails *consistently*, with a different slicer. If the second print came out good, than you would know that the problem is with the slicer. This method is *inconclusive* because you wouldn't not if the gcode is bad or if it simply happens that your printer cannot print well that specific sequence of commands (which may still be emitted by the other slicer under different conditions). * The more conclusive analysis would be to look at the gcode of a failed print where the fail happens between two geometrical identical layers. This seem to be the case for the print in the picture, btw. You should then compare the gcode of the layer that printed good with that of the layer that printed poorly. If the gcode differs... then you positively know the slicer doesn't work as it should. **The problem may be due to a mechanical fault with the printer**. Here the only idea I have to offer is overheating of the steppers and/or their controllers. This may in turn make the extruder servo skip some steps and therefore extrude less filament. If you perform the conclusive test above, you will know if this is the case. **The problem may be due to a firmware bug**. This is difficult to investigate, my only suggestion would be: upgrade to the latest and greatest, if you haven't done it already. **The problem may be filament-related**. This could be a number of things, but since the problem seems to happen at towards the end of the print, and your are printing at relatively high temp, an idea could be that too much heat reaches the cold end of the extruder, interfering with its extrusion. The easiest test here would simply be to re-print a failed print with a different filament. In your case I would suggest some PLA, just to decrease the temperature and change the chemical composition too. These are more or less all shots in the dark, but - together with asking here - it would be what I would do to debug, had I the same problem. Keep up posted! :) Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This doesn't look like a configuration error. It seems very likely this is a partial hotend jam. This happens sometimes because of stale filament but most often by not cooling down the heat sink (the part just over the heat break) enough which generates heat-creep, e.g heat creeps up through the filament, which eventually melts too early, creating a blob. It's main characteristic is that at first the print is impeccable but after some amount of time, you get a complete jam or under extrusion. This can be mitigated by higher print speeds, higher layers (so that the filament moves faster), printing at colder speed (if possible), lower retraction or usually completely solved with a fan cooling down the heat sink. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: You can try to reduce your retractions (try setting it to half what it is now and try again) If your retraction is too big you can pull hot plastic into the cold area of the hotend and create a partial clog - this happened to me yesterday when I tried to intentionally print with way too much retraction to make demonstration photos for the retraction test model I uploaded to thingiverse. *note/disclaimer: that model I talked about above is [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2753088), I'm the author of that model* Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I had a similar problem with PLA after upgrading to all metal hotend. My printer was in a cabinet and after some time in print had the same problem (heat creep). In the end, it was resolved by turning bed off after first 3 layers and turning on a fan to keep the cabinet cool. Upvotes: 1

2018/01/10

<issue_start>username_0: I am still at calibration stage and need some info from the PCB. I connected the USB and ran Repetier. The PCB wants to talk at a higher baud rate than my serial port says it can do. I tried setting the serial port to its highest setting 125k and reduced the PCB baud in Repetier setting to 125k. No joy. PC port reverts to 9600 every time I check it. Thoughts? PC running Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit.<issue_comment>username_1: Are you sure that the A8 connects to a PC using a serial port? I don't know of any 3D printers that do that. Typically, 3D printers connect to PCs using a USB connection, and there will be a type-B USB socket on the printer. However, there will be a USB bridge chip on the printer's controller board that connects the microcontroller to the USB socket. This bridge chip does have a serial port that is used to communicate with the microcontroller. Typically, these serial ports operate at 115,200 bits per second (115.2 kbps), although this may vary. Some USB bridge chips are capable of operating at 250kbps. Often, the software running on the PC needs to know what speed the serial port on the bridge chip runs at, in order to send data at a suitable rate. Of course, the USB connection is capable of handling data at a much higher rate, but the microcontrollers used in many 3D printers are not capable of handling such speeds. Note that the USB bridge chip on the printer may appear as a virtual COM port on a PC. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Sorted. Repetier Server was hijacking my com port. Uninstalled it and Repetier host worked fine. As I have no desire to monitor or control prints remotely I have no use for the server software. Hope that helps others. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: My A8 just started doing this. I shut down repetier server, and voila, all is good! Since I will go do OctoPi eventually, I just uninstalled RS. Upvotes: -1

2018/01/11

<issue_start>username_0: I'm relatively new in the field of 3D printing and design. By now I've created and printed some technical objects with TinkerCAD, but now I've a task, which I don't know how to solve. I have the following model as STL-file: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8Bn1.jpg) Now I want to "adjust" the arms of the model, as shown in the picture. I want the arms to hang besides the body. I know that I could cut and rotate the arms and then merge them again with TinkerCAD but the outcome dosn't look good and the workflow feels wrong. So what is the right tool/way to get this task done? \*Disclaimer: I'm not <NAME>, but he released this model unter CC license. So I kept his name on the image to credit him, as requested via CC.<issue_comment>username_1: Basically there's no good easy way to do this. At this point you only have the mesh - a list of triangles - the 3D model you have does not contain the concept of joints or moving parts so it can't regenerate the shoulder after the rotation. The original author may or may not have the ability to do this, depending on his workflow and software. If all you have is the STL your only choice is to rotate the arm and then rebuild the shoulder from scratch and manually fix anything that doesn't look good Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The correct/good method to achieve this is called "rigging", but it is not an easy feat (as pointed out by others), as it requires plenty of knowledge about the software being used to edit the model, and a good understanding of the theory behind it. [Skeletal animation](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skeletal_animation) requires the designer to set up a skeleton (also called "rig", hence the slang term "rigging") for the mesh and define the variables controlling the motion range of the joints and and the geometry and deformation of the mesh. It's quite some job to perform, so - unless this assignment is the first in a series of assignments having to do mesh movement for this model, or you have a keen interest in the topic - I would suggest you to take a shortcut and edit the mesh directly in a "one off" not reusable fashion. (Rigging would conversely allow you to create a "rag doll" or at least a "rag arm" to freely and intuitively move around as you please). The tool I would use for either task is [blender](https://www.blender.org/). If you want to take the shortcut, maybe a less complex software like meshmixer could also do the job (I don't have direct experience with it, though, so I'm not 100% sure). The blender foundation have a nice series of videos on the topic, called "[humane rigging](https://store.blender.org/product/humane-rigging-download/)". Upvotes: 3

2018/01/11

<issue_start>username_0: As first layer is so important, I am looking for an easy way to generate the gcode to print just the first layer. I see that with Slic3r you can cut from a Z But for test purposes I prefer just selecting a number of layers to be generated so I can easily generate different "first layer(s) tests" with different first layer(s) settings (width, height, speed, flow....) The only way I achieve it is editing the gcode. Any help? Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: I understand your question like this: > > I know I could cut the mesh and just slice the bottom of my model, but since I am interested in a given **number of layers** and the heigh of a layer may change according to settings (e.g.: 0.2mm, 0.1mm, 0.05mm...), I want to find a way to generate an arbitrary number of layers from the full model. I use slic3r. > > > If my understanding is correct, then you can achieve what you want with a few steps. **Use verbose GCODE** The setting is under "Print settings → Output Options". This will output gcode with comments in it. **Save the finishing gcode of a valid printing job** Basically, open a valid gcode file, and save the last few lines (comments will help you to understand which ones, it changes from printer to printer) in a separate file (`gcode.tail`). These lines are typically those that move away the nozzle from the print, disable the heating element, the steppers and the part cooling fan. **Prepare the `first-lines.sh` script** ``` #! /usr/bin/env sh sed -e '/move to next layer (3)/,$d' $1 > /tmp/gcode.tmp echo ~/gcode.tail >> /tmp/gcode.tmp echo /tmp/gcode.tmp ``` What this script does is: * take a file name from the command line (`$1`) and savie into `gcode.tmp` only the part of it up to and excluding the line saying "move to the next layer (3)" (you should actually use the number of layers you actually want here, `3` is just an example). Again, the presence of such a line depends from you generating "verbose gcode". * append to `gcode.tmp` the content of the file `gcode.tail` (here replace `~/` with the actual path on your username_1hine. * output as a stream the full content of `gcode.tmp` **Set your printer to automatically run the script onto the generated gcode** This setting is again under "Print settings → Output Options". You have to type in the full path to `first-lines.sh`. Also remember to make the script executable (`chmod +x first-lines.sh`). You can also hover over the textbox to get additional information of how you can access slic3r variables there (for example you may want to read the layer height from the settings and compute within the script the number of layers you want to keep). **Profit** :) Final notes: * I tried the sed command and have post-processing scripts running on my gcode myself, so it should work, but I haven't tried the full procedure myself, if you encounter bugs please leave a comment so I can fix the answer for everybody. :) * I use slic3r Prusa Edition (I believe these settings are the same, but just in case... you may wish to [download](https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases) that version. * All of the above should work out-of-the-box on all mainstream Linux distributions and OSX. For windows, it has been suggested in the comments to install [CygWin](http://www.cygwin.com/). * Since this procedure still slices the full model and then throw away most of it, you could make it faster by only slicing a reasonably thick "bottom part" of your model. For example: say that you know you will never want to print more than 5 layers and never with a layer height past 0.3mm... in this case you could only keep the bottom 2mm of your model and you'd be safe for all other combinations of layers and layer heights. Don't keep *exactly* 1.5mm though, as this is likely to generate a different top layer than the one in the full model. Good luck! :) Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You could just insert an M30 at the end of layer 1, and the job will end there. Upvotes: 0

2018/01/12

<issue_start>username_0: Googling 'HDPLA' has so far availed me very little. <http://3dinsider.com/what-is-pla/> indicates that /all/ modern PLA is 'high density' compared to 'the early days'. But a fellow at the local makerspace indicated that he was specifically using 'HDPLA', with [he claimed] markedly better properties than regular PLA in the final product. A company named Florion claims to have some secret sauce they add to their PLA, and Maker Filament touts a high temp PLA; but neither seems to use the 'HD' prefix. I haven't yet been able to track down the fellow to get any more specifics from him. There's no reel of the stuff sitting around so I can't look at its labeling for clues. He claimed to be fabbing lab fittings but I don't know the intended operating situation/requirements. It's possible he meant something else, like HDPE, which would be quite inert and thus a good choice for lab fittings--but I'd like to think that if it was lab equipment he was making he'd get the name of the polymer right. Comments, including any regarding the Florion or Maker Filament or any other 'high performance' PLAs, would be most welcome.<issue_comment>username_1: I doubt that it means very much at all. Filament manufacturers are very tight-lipped about the co-polymers that they add to their base stock in order to improve handling and performance characteristics, so it is impossible to say. The only common attribute that I can see is an advertised diameter tolerance of ±0.02mm. Maybe HD stands for *high-definition*, rather than *high-density*? Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: So, low-teck, old-style investigative work from my side.... I contacted [a company](http://www.filright.com) selling HDPLA and they got back to me with the following reply. > > We created HDPLA as an industrial PLA with special additives. As a result, our so called HDPLA has the advantages of ABS, but prints as easy as regular PLA. HDPLA has high impact, high strength and high heat deflection temperature (hdt). You can also print at high speed (max 140mm/s inhouse tests). HDPLA has is own high strength, but is even more strong after annealing. A heated bed is not necessary (50-60˚C recommended), and you can print with HDPLA with a 3D printer with open structure. > > > This is strikingly similar to the [description of what 3Dprima calls "Prima SELECT PRO"](https://www.3dprima.com/filaments/primaselect-pla-pro-1-75mm-750-g-black/a-22432/): > > PrimaSelect™ PLA PRO ist the next generation of high performance PLA for demanding industrial applications. Designed to be able to print fast >120mm/s so you can save on production time. Very high heat resistance (95°C+) after annealing. Excellent mechanical properties combined with a matte surface finish that helps concealing the printed layers for optimum appearance. > > > While writing this answer I also found [a page](http://fiberlogy.com/en/fiberlogy-filaments/filament-hd-pla/) that escaped my googling until now, sating an additional property of "their" HDPLA: food safety. > > With our HD PLA you have many more options. You can use this material in two ways. Choose the one you like best. You can use it as a normal PLA and get prints characterized by a very good adhesion between the layers and high precision. You can also make your prints acquire similar properties to that of ABS – better impact resistance and high temperature resistance. All you need is an oven. Yes, an oven! By annealing our HD PLA in an oven, in accordance with the manual, you will avoid all the inconveniences of printing with ABS, such as unpleasant odour or hazardous fumes. But these are not all the advantages of HD PLA. For the production of this material we have chosen raw materials that are approved for food contact in compliance with the EU directive and FDA regulations. HD PLA is also certified by RoHS. > > > So, it looks like HDPLA is not the shorthand of a polymer molecule, but rather **a trade word indicating that the base PLA has been mixed with additives**. Furthermore, the answer I got via mail seems to indicate that **"HD" refers to the high *Heat Deflection* temperature** of the filament (the [heat deflection temperature](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_deflection_temperature) is the temperature at which a polymer or plastic sample deforms under a specified load). Upvotes: 2

2018/01/12

<issue_start>username_0: I've just finished building a new printer and I wanted to take advantage of a 32 bits board I ordered some time ago. The board is an MKS SBase 1.3 I've been researching the Smoothiware firmware but somehow I'm not convinced by it yet. One of the things pulling me off is the Z-Probe behavior. On my Arduino-Marlin 1.1.8 machine, I have a probe which serves as both probe and Z-Endstop without a problem and very elegant implemented whereas on Smoothie, it's not so trivial as far as I've seen. Anyway, there is a branch of Marlin which is not yet for release but for testing and it supports 32 bits boards, being mine mentioned above one of them: <https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.0.x> I have yet to find some documentation explaining how to install it. The closest thing I found is a thread on their GitHub "forum": <https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8131> It seems that you have to build the project to create a firmware.bin file which you can copy to the microSD card and it will flash automatically to the board... again, no "official" documentation found. I've tried the steps described in this thread but I'm not able to compile for my board as it gives an error no matter what: ``` Marlin/src/gcode/eeprom/M500-M504.cpp:74:5: error: no matching function for call to 'MarlinSettings::report(bool, int16_t&)' ``` Has somebody successfully compiled this firmware? Is there something I might be doing wrong? I'm on a macOS machine, using Atom as editor with the Platformio-IDE installed. Any help is appreciated, Thanks in advance!<issue_comment>username_1: I doubt that it means very much at all. Filament manufacturers are very tight-lipped about the co-polymers that they add to their base stock in order to improve handling and performance characteristics, so it is impossible to say. The only common attribute that I can see is an advertised diameter tolerance of ±0.02mm. Maybe HD stands for *high-definition*, rather than *high-density*? Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: So, low-teck, old-style investigative work from my side.... I contacted [a company](http://www.filright.com) selling HDPLA and they got back to me with the following reply. > > We created HDPLA as an industrial PLA with special additives. As a result, our so called HDPLA has the advantages of ABS, but prints as easy as regular PLA. HDPLA has high impact, high strength and high heat deflection temperature (hdt). You can also print at high speed (max 140mm/s inhouse tests). HDPLA has is own high strength, but is even more strong after annealing. A heated bed is not necessary (50-60˚C recommended), and you can print with HDPLA with a 3D printer with open structure. > > > This is strikingly similar to the [description of what 3Dprima calls "Prima SELECT PRO"](https://www.3dprima.com/filaments/primaselect-pla-pro-1-75mm-750-g-black/a-22432/): > > PrimaSelect™ PLA PRO ist the next generation of high performance PLA for demanding industrial applications. Designed to be able to print fast >120mm/s so you can save on production time. Very high heat resistance (95°C+) after annealing. Excellent mechanical properties combined with a matte surface finish that helps concealing the printed layers for optimum appearance. > > > While writing this answer I also found [a page](http://fiberlogy.com/en/fiberlogy-filaments/filament-hd-pla/) that escaped my googling until now, sating an additional property of "their" HDPLA: food safety. > > With our HD PLA you have many more options. You can use this material in two ways. Choose the one you like best. You can use it as a normal PLA and get prints characterized by a very good adhesion between the layers and high precision. You can also make your prints acquire similar properties to that of ABS – better impact resistance and high temperature resistance. All you need is an oven. Yes, an oven! By annealing our HD PLA in an oven, in accordance with the manual, you will avoid all the inconveniences of printing with ABS, such as unpleasant odour or hazardous fumes. But these are not all the advantages of HD PLA. For the production of this material we have chosen raw materials that are approved for food contact in compliance with the EU directive and FDA regulations. HD PLA is also certified by RoHS. > > > So, it looks like HDPLA is not the shorthand of a polymer molecule, but rather **a trade word indicating that the base PLA has been mixed with additives**. Furthermore, the answer I got via mail seems to indicate that **"HD" refers to the high *Heat Deflection* temperature** of the filament (the [heat deflection temperature](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_deflection_temperature) is the temperature at which a polymer or plastic sample deforms under a specified load). Upvotes: 2

2018/01/13

<issue_start>username_0: Here is my understanding of Coasting: Coasting stops extruding early in a move so that the string itself will finish the layer. Here is my understanding of Combing: Combing reduces the need to retract during travel moves by making sure that the nozzle oozes where you want it to on the way to the next point. I'm curious as to what types of prints these are good for, and also what types of prints these would be bad for. So for instance, Coasting is good for prints that have a high propensity to exhibit stringing, but what types of prints would I want coasting to be deselected for? Similarly for combing, although I know neither the pros nor cons other than it reduces the number of retractions (decreases wear on extruder?) In short, basically I'm looking for the pros and cons of both of these settings. Also if my understanding of the settings themselves is incorrect please let me know. Any advice would be much appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: If anything, combing and coasting allow to **mitigate problems that are printer and filament specific**, rather than dependent on particular STL models. **Combing helps** - as you imply in your question - **with materials prone to oozing** (e.g. PETG) **Coasting is particularly good for printers with a bowden extruders and low jerk/retraction speeds**. This is because in bowden extruders there is a lot of filament compressed between the teeth of the extruder servo and the nozzle, and that pressure doesn't instantly disappears when the printer stop "pushing" (i.e.: turning the extruder servo). I believe there are **firmware implementations where coasting is also used when approaching sharp corners**. This is to mitigate the problem of "blobs" forming there. The mechanics of this are similar to those explained above: the pressure within the extruder cannot be instantly relieved and coasting accounts for that. The only difference being that - because of the micro-scale of the problem - even non-bowden printers are prone to corner blobs. In my experience (I look forward to other answers to "compare notes") there are **very few reasons not to use combing**. The only risk with it is that it increases the risk of the nozzle crashing into the print and destroying it. It sound dramatic, but it is in practice it requires everything to work against you: a big blob on the previous layer, the nozzle passing exactly there, poor bed adhesion... for me that has proved problematic only when printing miniatures with a 0.2 mm nozzle and 0.05 mm layer height (on a cheap printer). **There is of course a** (usually very small) **time penalty in combing**, as it typically requires the nozzle to travel longer paths. In my experience (again: YMMV, I look forward to more answers!) **the limitations of coasting are related to the way it is implemented**. For example, a given coasting setting may work great for getting rid of oozing, but will create under-extrusion in other parts of the print, as the calculations performed within the firmware may be spot-on for linear motion but inaccurate for corners, or vice-versa. I believe this is the reason while some popular slicers (like cura) have this setting hidden under "experimental". Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Coasting is good for filaments that ooze. The stop/up/start time at the end of a layer can be long enough that a visible seam appears if the layer starts in the same place. Transparent filaments also suffer from the velocity effect at layer shifts (more transparent when extruded slower). The disadvantage is that it becomes another parameter to tune per filament. Combing is most useful where a part has internal spaces, but might result in longer travel. Upvotes: 2

2018/01/15

<issue_start>username_0: I'm attempting to model and print a globe. The semi-circular arm that holds the globe has an outer diameter of 98mm and inner diameter of 92mm, so the arm is fairly thin. The arm has a small hole on either end that fits around a protrusion at each pole of the globe to hold it in place. The hole extends into the arm only a few millimeters, so it doesn't go all the way through. I printed the arm in ABS and it ended up being a bit too flexible to hold the globe securely. Obviously I could do things like making the arm thicker or extending the globe's protrusions all the way through the arm, but I'd prefer not to if I don't have to (you know, artistic integrity or whatever). Would printing in PLA result in a more rigid part? I've tried to do some googling on this, but couldn't really find a definitive answer. Most comparisons focus on strength which I assume doesn't necessarily correlate to flexibility. I'd also welcome any other suggestions for making the part more rigid.<issue_comment>username_1: **The flexibility of 3d plastics has a lot to do with the additives manufacturers use**. The same base material with additive X may have very different properties than the one with additive Y. That said, **generally speaking PLA is known to be more rigid** (and brittle) than ABS, but less strong. So: you have a fair chance at giving it a go with PLA, albeit you my end up with a more delicate object in the end. There is a well [known youtube channel](https://m.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer), whose author has performed a lot of [quasi-scientific testing](https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDJMid0lOOYl8TZJV9xHznKFq5yA5ZTi2) on common brands of filament (PLA and not) where you can get an idea of the relative rigidity of the filaments. You can find the table with the results [here](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1j9QazgoocuzHxg6qUXevq3dpAmmT2E87089FX6gRgWU/htmlview) (look for the "bend test" columns). However the very firs thing that came to mind when reading your post, is that you could simply **swap pins and holes** by putting the holding pins on the arm, and the holes on the globe instead. This would allow you to preserve your design *and* to have longer pins. Things you could try when it comes to printing (unless you are already doing them): * **Print the arm flat** so that the layers stretch from pole to pole uninterrupted. * **Print with near solid infill** (solid infill can be problematic if your extrusion calibration is not perfect), like 95% **and cubic infill** (for more uniform properties along the full length of the axis. Finally, **you could [try to anneal](https://hackaday.com/2017/06/17/annealing-plastic-for-stronger-prints/) the arm** in your kitchen oven. This process works by warming the part until it becomes pliable and then letting it cool very slowly. The end result is that the molecules arrange themselves in a more "crystal-like" way and the part becomes stronger and more rigid. **Beware that annealing changes your part dimensions** so you should definitively do some experiments with a test cube and find out the direction and percentage of the shrinking before going "all out" on the arm. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: To make it more rigid I would add more shells than to use solid infill. There are higher strength PLA's, but they only gain their higher strength and temperature resistance after annealing. From reviews I've seen, there is only a percent or two difference in size, but this is more complex than it seems because the difference is different along the layer lines or crosswise from them. However, even normal PLA will anneal, so if you have any you could do some quick experiments. If you have a high-strength nozzle, you could use NylonX. This is nylon with carbon fiber to make the part rigid. There are also carbon fiber PLA's ad ABS's, but I've never experimented with them. Otherwise, I like the answer from @username_1 Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Print thinner layers. Also, you did not mention the other dimension of your arm. If you view the globe with the arm to the left, then you have said the thickness in the X direction (left to right) is 6mm. But what about in the Z axis (away from you)? You could make it thicker in that direction to improve its rigidity. Upvotes: 0

2018/01/17

<issue_start>username_0: So I am trying to get the XSD-Schema from this object. When I open the File I just get something like this code (snippet): ``` ¸†2¡Q·2ºyƒeCã2ï…w ïÀ|¼ðAøä[0Ÿ |>‚|ó‘å2²ºFƒ¼Æò1ùàåcj@Þ`ùиÌ{áÈ;0/|¾ ùÌ'Ÿ„ Á|d½¬¬¯Õ ¯±|l¾…­Œo@Þ`ùиÌ{áÈ;0/|¾ùÌ'Ÿ„ Á|d½œ¬¯Ó ¯±|h\æ­Œo@Þ`ù¸| ßBs¦5–Œ~ôè»­£(™c´“Ç£[yp1:æ'Éc4Jó Uâ˜ÍÇ ``` What is this? How can I convert it back? I need to edit the structure manually. Thank you in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: Seems to be your are trying to edit a file with the wrong file editor. If you have Microsoft® Windows® 8.1, you can print directly using the 3MF format included. Simply set the print options in the 3D Print PropertyManager and print to the 3D printer. A preview of the print bed and the model's location within the print bed lets you modify settings before committing to a 3D print job. To access the 3D print dialog box and specify print options, click File > 3DPrint. The print dialog box that is available depends on your installed 3D print driver. If you need to get the STL you may need to use a file conversion, [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MVeFiCN7bA) is a youtube tutorial to makeprintable Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Three likely culprit: * **The file is compressed but your username_2hine can't detect it**. So for example the 3MF model has been zipped, and what you are trying to do is opening the zip archive in the text editor, rather than the file that is in the zip archive. Solution: try to see if common decompress utilities like zip, gzip, 7z can open the file. * **The file is a 3MF model but the [character encoding](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Character_encoding) in the file being different than the one your editor is expecting** (typically `Unicode/UTF-8`, these days). Solution: read on the rest of this answer. * **The file is a binary one that is totally unrelated to 3MF**. So in essence: an error, you are trying to open maybe an MP3 or a JPG file believing it to be a 3MF instead. As for the "wrong encoding" option... Oversimplifying a bit, the story goes like this: * computers write data to files in bytes, * a byte can only be set to one of its 256 possible values, * in the early days of computing, when computers were just glorified calculators, it was enough to have a 1:1 ratio between the byte possible values and the symbols one wanted to use, so [ASCII](http://www.asciitable.com/) was born (actually ASCII only "mapped" the first 127 values of the byte, but that is a detail). So: value #49 would represent a `1`, value #90 a `Z` and so on... * shortly afterwards, computers became powerful enough that people wanted to use them to process human languages, so the need for more characters (like accented ones `åáä` or the ones from non-latin alphabets like Cyrillic `язы́к` or arabic `عَرَبِيّ‎`, or...) came to be and engineers speaking different languages had the "brilliant" idea to each use the other 127 "free slots" in a byte for their favourite languages, thus a plethora of [extended ASCII](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_ASCII) encodings was born, **each using the same byte value, but each mapping to a different symbol**. * later on, people began to realise the need to combine the use of say Gaelic, English, Japanese and Farsi with mathematical symbols, and thus they came up to way to map symbols to values expressed as the product of more bytes (so for example: 2 bytes encoding could map 256x256=65536 symbols). Again: each system using the same values but different symbols. * finally after decades of frustrated users and expensive bugs, engineers around the world settled for a multi-byte **standard that has 1,114,112 possible values that could contain all characters one can possibly need**, and [Unicode](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unicode) was born. Back to your question: despite unicode having been around for a few decades now, legacy software and sloppy programming are a thing, and there are still systems that do not use unicode internally but some legacy "special purpose" encoding. Unfortunately, it is [impossible to say with certainty how a file was encoded](https://softwareengineering.stackexchange.com/a/187174/29074), so **occasionally you may find yourself opening a file and starting decoding it according to a "conversion table" that is not the one used by the author of the file itself**. This is what it looks like is happening to you. Onward to what you can try to do to fix this... First of all: as attentive readers may have already inferred, **you will need the actual file** for this. In fact if you cut-and-paste its "content" from an editor what you are really doing is cutting-and-pasting the *decoding* your computer did of the byte values, and not the byte values themselves. Then your best bets are: * **Try one of the online detectors** like [this one](https://nlp.fi.muni.cz/projects/chared/), using "English" as a language. These detectors work by trying all the decoders they know of until the decoded file will have English (or another language of your choice) words in it. This may not work for you as a 3MF file is mostly numbers, not text, but it is worth a shot. * **Guesstimate what encoder may have been used**. For example: if you got the file from an old windowsXP username_2hine from Eastern Europe, chances are it may have been encoded with "windows-1251". Use an [online converter](http://www.motobit.com/util/charset-codepage-conversion.asp) to see if you were right about it. * **Use brute force**. For this you will require to write a simple programme or ask somebody to do it for you, but the key idea here is to have a script taking your original file and decoding it using all encoders in that programming language knows of. Then it will be up to you to open each decoded file individually and verify if it worked or not. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]