Datasets:

bigcode

/

stackoverflow-clean

like 6

Follow

BigCode 1.17k

2018/01/20

<issue_start>username_0: I've have observed that when the printer is finishing a layer, the flow of plastic through the nozzle starts fading out as it comes closer to the point of layer change. As an example, let's say that I'm printing the first layer of a cube. The nozzle first prints the perimeters ok. Then it begins to print the inner part, beginning from one corner and finishing on the opposite one. As the nozzle comes closer to the finishing corner, the flow of plastic diminishes, resulting in the lines of the filament to touching each other. Maybe it's not a big deal, but it's annoying because it's stopping the part of having a very nice first layer and finish. My setup is: * Anet A6 running Marlin 1.1.8 * Bed auto leveling before each print * Slic3r Prusa Edition, latest release (as of 20 January 2018) * PETG from Das Filament I tried disabling all "retract" settings but the issue persists. I'm beginning to think that this could be a software bug (Slic3r), but before I submit it to GitHub, I'd like to be sure. Any opinion is welcome!<issue_comment>username_1: If you think it is a slicing problem, look at the G-code. You might want to arrange for the infill to be orthogonal to the axes, but it ought to be easy enough to calculate the ratio between printhead motion and the extruder. G-code is just text, and fairly easy to make sense of. The [RepRap](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code) wiki has a good reference to the commands, and all you care about are X-Y movement, and E movement. An alternative explanation might be that your extruder is struggling with the extrusion rate, and after continuous extrusion is failing to heat the filament fast enough to melt. The layer change could be providing a sufficient respite that walls start off OK on the next layer. Also check (in the G-code) that the speed of walls and infill is the same. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The Prusa Slic3r edition has [specific help references](http://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/fighting-ooze) in the manual that may be of value to you. One of the entries that catches my eye is the line marked "Retract on layer change" which appears to be just as you are describing. You've noted that you've disabled all retract settings, perhaps overlooking the check box? The above linked document also refers to a print setting that prevents retract of filament when not crossing perimeters. This again appears relevant to your difficulties. Your post says "resulting in the lines of the filament to touching each other." I expect you mean "not touching each other" but I do not wish to correct/edit your post if I am incorrect in this understanding. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: The behaviour you are describing (stopping to extrude before the nozzle finish moving) is called **coasting** and is actually a desirable one if tuned correctly (which is clearly not your case). **Here's a primer on why coasting is good**: the hysteresis (think of it as "springiness") of the filament between the point where the stepper motor pinches it and pushes it towards the nozzle, and the point in which the filament liquefy, makes so that there is always a residual pressure whenever the stepper motor stop spinning. So coasting consists of **stopping to actively extrude *before* the nozzle has reached the endpoint of the line** being "drawn", and relying on the residual pressure to finish the job. Many slicer have a dedicated setting for this, but - to the best of my knowledge - slic3r PE has not. In your question, you seem to think this may be linked to filament retraction. It is definitively worth trying (why not!) but **filament retraction normally refers to the act of relieving that residual pressure *after* the line being printed is finished and before moving away the nozzle**, so... if that setting turns out to be the key to your problem, then it would be quite a misnomer. A quick way to verify if this is the case could be **toggling the ceckbox "use firmware retraction"** in the printer/general pane of slic3r settings. If the problem is with the retraction settings you chose, this would ignore them completely. A clean print would confirm your theory. Failing that, the best way to debug would probably be **to slice the same model with a different slicer** ([cura](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software) is a common one) and see if the problem persists: * if it does, then the problem is probably in the firmware or the extruder of the printer itself * if it does not, then you would have a set of "good settings" in the second slicer that you could try to replicate in Slic3r PE. Or - as you believe it may be the case - you could have found a way to trigger a weird bug in Slic3r. Good luck and let us know about your findings! :) Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: As username_3's answer says, this is **coasting**, but contrary to that answer, **coasting is not good**. At one time (that answer was written way back in 2018 when the state of software was much worse than it is now), it was an idea a number of people accepted as reasonable, but it was operating at the wrong layer, and was a very bad hack, necessarily extruding less material than needed to accurately construct the part being printed. Leading to exactly what OP saw. Nowadays, printer firmware has a feature called Linear Advance (Marlin) or Pressure Advance (Klipper) that can be calibrated with test prints and compensates for the increased backpressure when extruding fast - or more importantly, seen from the other direction, the reduced backpressure when slowing down at the end of an extrusion path, that results in continued oozing after the extrusion was supposed to end. This feature eliminates the need for hacks that underextrude and produces very accurate extrusion regardless of changes in speed or flow. Anyone experiencing problems like OP hit should check that their profile does not have coasting (and hacks meant to compensate in the other direction for problems it causes, like "extra prime") enabled in the slicer. Upvotes: 1

2018/01/21

<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to print a model that requires support material to be on the first layer, what is the best way to accomplish this? I am currently using Cura. It seems that the support material is too flaky. I have the infill for the support at around 8%<issue_comment>username_1: I cannot comment on your infill percentage for supports, since I never use them. In any case, increasing the infill may well have little or no effect. However, you could try two things: If your slicer includes supports when generating brims, then use brims. Otherwise, use a raft. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem printing a miniature just recently. As always, settings are somewhat dependent from the object you want to print, but here are some suggestions: * Increase the support density: 15% (8% is very low!) * Support pattern: zig-zag with "connect zig-zag" option enabled (add stiffness to the "column" of support) * Enable support interface (increase adhesion to the plate, and provide a more "beefy" base for the support material) For reference, here's a screenshot of my settings as I tweaked them for that miniature (printed a 0.1mm layer height). [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WNjki.png) ("Support line distance 1mm" is the same as "Support density 15%", or at least it is the same with my nozzle size) If your problem was not only with the "flakiness" of the material, but also with it adhesion to the bed, then prepping your printing bed somehow (with a bit of painter tape, glue, etc... can help. Alternatively using a brim or a raft (as also suggested by another responder) could also help. **EDIT**: all the above still standing true, it turns out the OP had a hardware problem as well, his timing belt being loose (see comments). Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2018/01/21

<issue_start>username_0: I am looking for a plastic which is transparent to radio waves. I want to place my transmitter in a cylinder. That cylinder would be placed in a big RC plane ( whose body is made up of cardboard). I want the plane to be both telemetry, and RC controlled. That cylinder should allow the signals, should be strong and light. So which material would you suggest and is that material easy to do 3d print?<issue_comment>username_1: For the kind of application you are looking for, transparency to radio signal shouldn't really be an issue, so you are more or less free to choose whatever suits your taste better. Looking at the 3d printed drone community, the 3 most common materials I see being used there are: * impact-resistent PLA * PETG * ABS This order also match their "ease of use", with PLA being very easy to print even without heated bed, behaving well with glues in the assembly and being easy to paint on. The impact resistance of "though PLA" still doesn't match that of - say - ABS, but is typically considered "good enough" for anything but the propellers. PETG is tougher. Print relatively easy (stringing and oozing being the typical problems) but it is known to be somewhat difficult to glue and paint. It is also quite dense, so - dimensions being the same - it will weight more than PLA. Finally, ABS is a classic. It is strong, durable, easy to finish (with acetone) but it is the most finicky material to print with, requiring an enclosure and proper ventilation (the fumes being toxic). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: To second @username_1, For drone usage, ABS will be your pal\*. Both tough-PLA and PETG are relatively heavy, which is a disadvantage for flying saucers. Unless you power up and don't care! * And I say this as someone who does not recommend ABS for general printing and I don't like printing ABS myself because of the smell, how much it warps, and most importantly the harmful nano particles it releases when printing (yes, all filaments do this, but ABS is on the very bad side of the spectrum). Note that tough-PLA differs manufacturer to manufacturer - basically it's not supposed to behave like PLA, so you get proprietary blends. PETG is traditionally tougher than PLA, but with the modified PLA, who knows. I have not personally met tough PLA tougher than regular PETG. --- SO: * PETG if weight is not an issue. It prints well and it's tough. * ABS if weight is an issue. It's not easy to print; and make sure it's well well ventilated area (while venting during the print would mess up your print.) * Tough PLA if you only have cold bed. Upvotes: 1

2018/01/23

<issue_start>username_0: Dear experts and 3D printer users; I am a beginner in 3D printing field. I read couple of answers in forums and i cannot find exact answer to my problem. Printing quality dropped when i try to write vertical axis (i mean, columns). There is no problem in horizontal axis. My column width must be 0.5 mm, and printer nozzle diameter is 0.4 mm. I think I should write 0.5 mm column with 0.4 mm nozzle with ease. I added messy structure to this post and you can find writing details below. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbBo0.jpg) What do you think? What is your suggestion to overcome this problem? Printer:Ultimaker 3, Slicer:Cura, Printing Details; Nozzle diameter:0.4 mm, Profile:Fine 0.1 mm, Layer height:0.1 mm, Wall thickness:1 mm, Top bottom thickness:1 mm, Infill density: 100 %, Gradual infill steps:0, Printing Temp:240 C, Build plate Temp:65 C, Diameter: 2.85 mm, Dimensions of the material:10X10X5 mm<issue_comment>username_1: You cannot hope to print 0.5mm columns with a 0.4mm print head successfully using an FDM printer. Basically, you are asking the printer to lay down tiny blobs of filament, one of top of another. You have two options: 1. Use a finer nozzle (e.g. 0.1mm). However, such nozzles are reported as being very difficult to use. 2. Switch to a different printing technology (e.g. SLA). Resin and powder-based printers have much finer resolutions, and will have no difficulty printing the model that you describe. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: **The main problem with your setup is the nozzle width**. It is simply too big to accurately print a structure that tiny. An integral part of the filament deposition is the "smearing" of the molted plastic, that clearly can't happen if the structure is about the same size of the nozzle bore. Also the printed structure is too flimsy to resist the "suction" of such a big nozzle moving away. **I would suggest to use a smaller nozzle and/or increase the size of your pillars**. A good combo would be 0.2mm nozzle with 0.6mm or 0.8mm pillars. For these small details, it would be best to have a pillar size that is a perfect multiple of your nozzle diameter. Other settings that will help you: * reduce the print dramatically (try 20 or 30 mm/s) * use retraction (or increase its amount/speed) * make sure your cooling fan is 100% * use a sensible "minimum layer time" (try 10 seconds for a start) The first two settings should reduce the force/impulse applied by the nozzle on the pillar. The latter two should make sure your pillar is "solid" when extruding a new layer on top of it. Upvotes: 2

2018/01/23

<issue_start>username_0: Anet A8 printer, Github Marlin, Repetier Host, Cura slicer Just setting up printer and printed 20mm calibration cube from Thingiverse. X,Y,Z & E not too far off but not quite right (centre hole was oval not round) X19.5mm, Y19.5mm & Z20mm. Followed Youtube calibration help and updated firmware to Marlin. I ran several iterations of request travel, measure result and tweek stepper settings (M501,M92xxxx, M500) Live Die Repeat... When I now print the calibration cube I get X25mm, Y20mm & Z19.5mm. Could the issue be with the firmare being upgraded to Marlin? The cube was sliced by Cura and I have used the same file for all of the prints. When I stop the print and ask Repetier to move the steppers the distance is as they should be for a 100mm travel.<issue_comment>username_1: There could be a number of issues causing this. Since you just set it up here is a list of questions for you to go through: * Are your belts tightened? (With an additional belt tightener) * Are your carriages are sliding smoothly? Both might cause some irregular movements explaining the results being off. Having said that, I wouldn't worry too much if you're <0.5 mm off. This is still a cheap DIY printer (I have the same one, by the way). This video actually goes into some details why you shouldn't worry so much about 100% accuracy and what you should actually care for when tuning your printer: <https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8> Also Not sure how you measured the cube but callipers are often also not that reliable. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If you have a stock printer, your calibration values should be stock - i.e. 100 steps/mm for X/Y. Also, as an extra hint, X and Y steps should be identical since the mechanics are identical (unless you swapped out one of the motors or drive gears). It sounds like you have Y correct, but something wrong with X. This could be the belt being damaged, or slipping (or having slipped during your initial cal, and not later). Try increasing/decreasing print speed, this might show up some dynamic problems with the movement. If you print something bigger (like [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2566871)) you don't need to worry so much about measurement precision and under/over-extrusion (which adds to the error, but doesn't scale with size). You don't make it clear if you've started by calibrating your extruder. This is the most important first step, and ensures that you extrude the right length of filament during the print. All this requires is that you mark out 10cm of filament and extrude it into free space. Upvotes: 1

2018/01/24

<issue_start>username_0: I have been playing around with the bed for a while and I still can't get the first layer to stick properly. I think I am getting the bed leveled good, I use the paper method. But yet I find myself with the filament lifting off and getting pulled away with the nozzle or some balling in rare situations. I use masking tape, which I found for $3 at Dollar general. I heard something about shine being a factor, but why is that important? And is more expensive masking tape worth it? I don't want to buy it because I would hate for it to tear when I take off a print. I also use some glue stick, which seems to sometimes not help, almost like it doesn't allow the filament to stick. I don't think I was adding too much, maybe I was. But is glue stick needed? Does it really make that much of a difference? So other than that I don't know what to try. I can't get the first layer to work properly. Maybe it is my speed, what is a good speed to print at for the first layer, I am doing 60 mm/s, just like the rest of my print. Any advice from there with first layers would be great. I am tired of wasting time and filament over failed first layers. But when I do get the first layer done, the second+ layers all work fine, no issues. Here are the specs of my printer, that should be helpful for people: * Printer --> Anet A6 * Print area --> 220 x 220 mm * Heated bed? --> Yes * Bed temp --> 50°C * I use masking tape on bed * nozzle dia. --> 0.4mm * Nozzle temp --> 210°C * Print speed --> 60 mm * Material of choice --> PLA * Fan is on after 3 layers I think that covers everything, Let me know if I need to add anything else.<issue_comment>username_1: Masking tape (and blue painter's tape) is coated with a wax-based release agent in order to prevent the tape sticking to itself on the roll. This release agent must be removed with an organic solvent in order to obtain good adhesion. Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol is good for this. Acetone will also work, but it is a much stronger solvent (which is not necessarily a good thing). For blue painter's tape, rub freshly applied tape with solvent until the blue dye starts coming off. Then give it a quick wipe between prints to remove any fingerprints, etc. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Instead of masking tape, I would use BuildTac or some other similar surface. These are self-adhesive and come in various sizes. You can cut them down if they are too large for your bed. I'm using it on my Monoprice Select Mini with a heated bed and it works fine. I did have to experiment with the PLA I'm using in order to make sure it didn't adhere *too* well. And yes, I use alcohol prep pads to clean the surface. You can get these at the first aid or diabetes section of any pharmacy. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Mick (other answerer) is spot-on with his advice on how to prep the masking tape to work well as an adhesion enhancer. Additionally: what material is the surface of your printing bed, and is the bed heated? If it is, just know that **you may want to try with both heat on and off if you are using tape** (it works worse for me and at least a friend of mine with heat on, but down in the comment others report it working better...). As for general advice on bed adhesion strategies: in case your bed is glass and heated, then the best, fastest, cleanest and cheapest method is to just print on it without anything else. The secrets to success here are: * A **clean glass**, without contamination from solvents or additives to solvents that are often used (like many types of alcohol). Use dish soap and warm water only, and be extremely careful not to touch the printing surface with your skin, as your skin contains natural oils that *will* make plastic not to stick to the glass. * A **dead flat glass**. This should sound obvious, but most cheap printers have glasses that are not flat enough (CR-10, I am looking at you!). The best tip here is: use mirrors. They are very cheap at home improvement stores, can be easily cut to size and - most importantly - they are normally *extremely* flat, as otherwise they would deform the image they reflect. * A **perfectly levelled glass**. You can achieve this with the paper method and some patient, but if you want to make your life easier, and have better first layers, do yourself a favour and buy an [indicator](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indicator_(distance_amplifying_instrument)). Thingiverse is full of user-made mounts to attach them to all sort of printers. The last point is good advice even if your bed is not glass, although you won't benefit from it as much. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: I'll go out on a limb and suggest that, while your bed may be well-levelled, the Z-axis zero might be off. A difference of 10-20 microns can be the difference between strong adhesion to the bed/tape and having your print float away. If your first layer doesn't get "squashed flat" a bit by the nozzle, your extruder head is slightly higher than optimal. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: I'm Using Masking tape with no problems, your parameters are OK and just need to sand the surface before sending to print, use sand paper #120 or #150. The first layer height is 0.18 mm to 0.25 mm. The masking tape can be used for a lot of prints, you can change it every week to keep a good adhesion. I found that not all brands works fine, for example **TUK** has a good adhesion and can be used for several prints. **3M** has an stronger adhesion but is needed to sand on 100 % area and can be used only for one printing. **Jevelin** has a good adhesion but, if the heat bed is above 40 °C this masking tape starts to peel off. and the other ones might have the same issue near to 50 °C or more. Upvotes: 2

2018/01/24

<issue_start>username_0: I am using python 3.6 with pySerial library to connect to the Hyrel System 30M 3D Printer. I am able to read the data from the device but unable to write any commands to it Here is the code: ``` ser = serial.Serial() ser.port = 'COM4' ser.baudrate = 38400 out = ser.readline() ser.write(b'M106 T14 S30\n') %This is the command to turn on the fan at 30% power ``` Can somebody suggest me how to write commands to printer through python<issue_comment>username_1: If the one in your question is your *complete* code, a possibility is that your computer is just buffering the output for the serial port, withholding it in memory. Try to add ``` ser.flush() ``` after your last line. This command will... well... *flush* anything into the buffer through the actual connection. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Sorry for the late answer, but with Repetrel v3 and later, we have the option for you to configure a secondary COM port, and relay G- or M-Code commands from your other source through the Repetrel software to the printer. Please contact us for assistance. Note: I work for Hyrel 3D. Upvotes: 1

2018/01/25

<issue_start>username_0:  This is what is happening to my motor. Any suggestions would help. 1. I have tried adjusting the trimpot. 2. Rewire the connector to match the one on the motherboard. 3. Anything else I found on the internet.<issue_comment>username_1: If the one in your question is your *complete* code, a possibility is that your computer is just buffering the output for the serial port, withholding it in memory. Try to add ``` ser.flush() ``` after your last line. This command will... well... *flush* anything into the buffer through the actual connection. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Sorry for the late answer, but with Repetrel v3 and later, we have the option for you to configure a secondary COM port, and relay G- or M-Code commands from your other source through the Repetrel software to the printer. Please contact us for assistance. Note: I work for Hyrel 3D. Upvotes: 1

2018/01/26

<issue_start>username_0: I would like to ask this in more of a general sense than anything, just for people to make note. I am printing out things for people and some files have some edges hanging out the side. I always worry, since it is printing in mid air, that it would screw up the print. But I was able to go, maybe 1mm(I am not to good with metric when it comes to guessing). My question is, how far at 90\* from a wall can a printer pull off before it is necessary to have support? This would help me when slicing up files.<issue_comment>username_1: It is typical for a 3D printer to be able to manage one-half the width of the nozzle for unsupported layer printing. This frequently calculates out to a realistic 45° from the start point. If you are getting 1 mm extension from a 0.4 mm nozzle you are doing well. It's possible that the layers are not strongly bonded at the point of extension from the vertical wall, but are then strengthened by the layers printed above, if they do not extend excessively. If your part is designed well, the extension will be distributed gradually over more than one layer, allowing that 1 mm extension over 2.5-3 layers without impacting the appearance of the model in an excessive manner. The above does not apply to bridges, as it involves a different dynamic for the printer/slicer software. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If I understand correctly, your question is specifically for **overhangs at 90°** (so an horizontal plane that has no support under it. The first to notice is that **you can only pull this off if the extrusion happens perpendicular to the surface from which the overhang is coming off** (the closest to 90° the better) as effectively what is happening is that you are building a cantilever structure as you extrude. If you think about it in terms of a *cantilever structure* you will quickly realise that the stiffer the structure, the furthest you can go without it drooping. The main parameters you can tweak to increase the stiffness are: * **Cooling**. The cooler the plastic, the stiffer it is, so crank the cooling part fan up to 100%! * **Speed**. Plastic need time to cool off, so the slower you print (within reasonable limits), the more time you will allow for plastic to cool under the fan. On my rig I seem to get the best result between 15 and 20mm/s, but your mileage may vary, obviously. * **Layer height**. The thicker the layer, the more weight it will bear before drooping, so higher layers work best. A slicer that is very convenient to use for prints that have a couple of overhangs like these is [slic3r PE](https://www.prusa3d.com/slic3r-prusa-edition/), as you can vary the height of the layers at specific points in the print. * **Material**. Some materials are more rigid than others. PLA is probably the one that works best for overhangs. PETG and Nylon are somewhat more problematic, and flexible filaments are the ones being more difficult to use. **For bridges** (unsupported filament extruded between two supported structures) the considerations are identical but for speed: in my experience having the **speed not too low** helps the nozzle keep tension in the extruded filament by "pulling" it and keeping it horizontal. But again: each printer, firmware and slicer is different, and you should experiment yourself to see what works for you. To sum this up: **"how far you can go before needing support" is a question that cannot be answered with a fixed number** as the answer depends from a lot of factors that vary from printer to printer and material to material. Without mentioning: how many defects you are happy to tolerate before calling the print a failure. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: To add to what username_2 described, there are small detail effects which sometimes change the behaviour of an overhang (and not necessarily in a predictable manner). Concave overhangs might sag (rather than turn out like a bridge). Convex overhangs might pull tight. Cooling plastic tends to shrink,so might sag less. I'm often surprised how well overhangs turn out, but equally often see failures which I don't anticipate. Upvotes: 1

2018/01/30

<issue_start>username_0: I recently changed filament and for starters it worked perfectly well, but quickly I got some problems with my first layer. It's like droplets are forming on the surface (finished item + 3 undersides): [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qgPyl.jpg) The final part is (for me) okay but I'd like to get rid of those pesky 'drops'. **As the defect is quite stable and quite recognizable and it happens all the time, I bet somebody more experienced than me knows what's going on!** Info: I'm using a 1 week old eSun filament, a E3D V6 Hotend 1.75mm on my scratch CoreXY printer, short Bowden direct drive, Repetier, Marlin, Linear advance (M900 K60 so quite low). The print is done using a 0.4mm diameter nozzle at 0.2mm height at: 50°C(122°F) heat-bed and 214°C(417°C) hot-end for first layer, then lower a bit to 40°C(104°F) heat-bed and 211°C(412°F) hot-end. I use Blue-painter tape. Worked perfectly well with my black eSun and my white eSun. **What's my problem?** Thank you all! [Edit] Tried about everything (more temp, less temp, fan on item, more / less bed temp, underextrude, moving around z delta, removing linear advance, radically lowering speed) but the only thing that worked about okay (problem was quite reduced but didn't go away totally) was to bump up the layer thickness to 0.3mm [Edit 2] Finally it seems it was, as it usually is, a conjuncture of several problems that I will list here: * The bed was not perfectly flat * The heatbed moved/bended when going from a hot first layer to a colder second (and on) layer * Maybe the speed was a bit high for the first layer (25mm/s) I fixed this by installing a borosilicate glass bed on top of the heat bed which ensures a perfect flatness. I had to change my inductive sensor to an 8mm one (insteéad of the 4mm I had previously added) to make this function. I think it is not as good as it can be as it detects the heatbed under the glass (which is not perfectly flat), but it's enough for now. I'm thinking about how to make the glass conductive, like aluminium or something, but that's for another day/post. I also put blue tape on the glass because the first layer was tricky. This might be because the inductive sensor doesn't do its job that well (see above). Heatbed temperature for first layer: 70°C Extruder temperature anywhere from 190°C to 220°C works fine, that was not the problem, or it is no longer a problem. I also lowered the first layer speed to 20mm/s because the first layer didn't stick easily directly onto the glass, with blue painters tape it sticks even too much so I'll try higher speeds. It did mitigate problems though so it might be a path to try if you run into similar problems. And now it seems that it works even amazingly well, I just have to print something really big to see! ---------------Old: Moving z up made spaghetti :-) and different temperatures made quite extreme warping: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eV7UJ.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7VeCT.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Mine is more of an educated guess than a definitive diagnosis, but **it looks to me like if your printer may be overextruding** (it's difficult to say with certainty with this particular picture, but your top layers too do not look as good as they should). **I wonder if you have [calibrated your extrusion](https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder) for this particular spool of filament**? This is something that you should do for each and every new spool of filament, regardless of whether you have already used the same brand and material, as different batches and colours may differ slightly in diameter or hardness, and both factors can lead to a different overall flow out of your nozzle (I just checked eSun website, and they state "Accuracy:1.7-1.8mm", and 6% variance is quite a lot). Possibly unrelated, but **211+°C is also quite on the high end of the correct temperature for printing PLA** (if that is what you are using). Still in the range recommended by the manufacturer - so it should be ok - but you may wish to try bringing it down a notch (205°C perhaps?). Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: First of all, thanks for all the help, it really is a nice community! But none of them actually helped and I finally find out what to actually do to fix the problem so here it goes: * Extruder temperature didn't change anything (made it worse under 190°C/374°F) * Speed didn't change anything (tried as low as 10mm/s) * Z tuning didn't change anything * Using 0.3mm layers instead of 0.2mm made it slightly better but still completely unusable **So, what did the trick?** I figured that it was extreme warping, so heating up the heatbed to 80°C/176°F and the first layer comes down really good, for the rest of the print I use normal temperatures and it works okay. For overhangs I bump some degrees and point a small squirrel cage fan on the overhang. I think the filament is damaged or that this particular color might be a bit different than other colors, but well, now it works! [Edit] From a recent firmware upgrade the heatbed PID was disabled, re-enabling it really made it simpler too. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2018/02/02

<issue_start>username_0: Model of the printer is unknown, got it as present, probably something generic cartesian on arduino mega and ramps boards stitched together and with marlin firmware. I've used accepted answer from here to try moving this thing from terminal. [How to directly send G-code to printer from a Linux terminal?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3112/how-to-directly-send-g-code-to-printer-from-a-linux-terminal) My first attempt to get access to low-level printer interface looked like that: ``` ./baud.py <> /dev/ttyACM0 250000 tail -f /dev/ttyACM0 & cat > /dev/ttyACM0 ``` First it was fine: i've entered g-code, printer executed it and returned an ok message into my terminal. Then i've turned the printer off and on again and repeated the whole process, but now `tail -f` didn't output anything and printer LCD displayed garbage in the status line after I ran the command. I've also noticed that printer controller reboots every time the serial port is accessed, not sure if it happened in the first time when everything worked well. The output of `cat /dev/ttyACM0` after baud setting is a bit weird too - and there's garbage in the status line instead of standard "%printername% ready" as well: ``` start echo:Marlin1.0.0 echo: Last Updated: May 20 2017 18:12:04 | Author: (none, default config) Compiled: May 20 2017 echo: Free Memory: 3763 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232 echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded echo:Steps per unit: echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z3200.00 E97.94 echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s): echo: M203 X50.00 Y50.00 Z2.50 E25.00 echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2): echo: M201 X750 Y750 Z100 E10000 echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration echo: M204 S500.00 T500.00 echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s) echo: M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z1.00 E5.00 echo:Home offset (mm): echo: M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 echo:PID settings: echo: M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00 echo:SD init fail echo:Unknown command: "starto" ok echo:Unknown command: "SD init failstartuthor" ok echo:Unknown command: " (none, default config)50.00 Z2.50 E2rBy00.00 Y0.00 Z0.00echo" ok echo:Unknown command: "Unknown command" ok echo:Unknown command: " "starto"own comm" ok echo:Unknown command: "aximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)echo" ok echo:Unknown command: "PID settings" ok echo:Unknown command: "okechecho" ok ``` The "SD init fail" line and everything after it appears when sensor data appears on the LCD, there's a delay before that during which the LCD is empty. If you send commands to printer using something like `echo "G0 X10" > /dev/ttyACM0`, it executes them only on next serial port accessing (and therefore reboot) - or doesn't execute at all. The interesting part is that Cura "Monitor" tab can actually manipulate the caret and the Cura itself can print things in general - but i want to be able to do it manually.<issue_comment>username_1: Mine is a wild guess, but judging from: ``` echo:Unknown command: "starto" ok echo:Unknown command: "SD init failstartuthor" ok echo:Unknown command: " (none, default config)50.00 Z2.50 E2rBy00.00 Y0.00 Z0.00echo" ok echo:Unknown command: "Unknown command" ok echo:Unknown command: " "starto"own comm" ok echo:Unknown command: "aximum XY jerk (mm/s), Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s), E=maximum E jerk (mm/s)echo" ok echo:Unknown command: "PID settings" ok ``` **It looks like you may be looping back the output of your printer as an input to itself**. I am very suspicious of your line: `tail -f /dev/ttyACM0 &` as that seems to indicate your are trying to perform other actions in the same terminal window after you started to monitor the serial connection. If this is the case, you should definitively **open the monitor in a *separate* terminal** (`tail -f /dev/ttyACM0`) and feed the input in a different one (note that yo must not use the final `&`). Finally, you probably want to use `cat >> /dev/ttyACM0` instead of `cat > /dev/ttyACM0` as you want to append your commands without truncating the existing stream. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: That's weird but i've got some code from here: <https://stackoverflow.com/questions/6947413/how-to-open-read-and-write-from-serial-port-in-c> , changed it a little, removed few lines, ran it - and my port started working just fine. Here's the complete code (for Linux of course). I guess that was the c\_lflag line that solved the problem. ``` #include #include #include #include #include int set\_interface\_attribs (int fd) { struct termios2 tty; memset (&tty, 0, sizeof tty); ioctl(fd, TCGETS2, &tty); tty.c\_cflag&=~CBAUD; tty.c\_cflag|=BOTHER; tty.c\_ispeed=tty.c\_ospeed=250000; tty.c\_cflag = (tty.c\_cflag & ~CSIZE) | CS8; tty.c\_iflag &= ~IGNBRK; tty.c\_lflag = 0; tty.c\_oflag = 0; tty.c\_cc[VMIN] = 0; tty.c\_cc[VTIME] = 5; tty.c\_iflag &= ~(IXON | IXOFF | IXANY); tty.c\_cflag |= (CLOCAL | CREAD); tty.c\_cflag &= ~(PARENB | PARODD); tty.c\_cflag &= ~CSTOPB; tty.c\_cflag &= ~CRTSCTS; ioctl(fd, TCSETS2, &tty); return 0; } int main() { int fd=open("/dev/ttyACM0",O\_RDWR|O\_NOCTTY|O\_SYNC); set\_interface\_attribs(fd); close(fd); return 0; } ``` Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]

2018/02/03

<issue_start>username_0: I am printing some minion chess pieces for my teacher at school and on every model I have found something called "ghosting", or at least I heard that is what it is called. For example there is a strap on the model for the pants. And going left and right there is very shallow "straps" or something happening. I am interested to know what causes this to happen and how to fix it. It is not super bad, but would be nice to fix.<issue_comment>username_1: **Ghosting is an artefact in the print due to the vibrations in the printer that are induced by rapid changes of direction**. It is important not to confuse them with inherent vibrations in the printer due for example to the belts being loose or the bearings not being in perfect order. The good news is that it is relatively easy to tell them apart: **ghosting** (also known as "ringing" or "ripples" or "waves" or a number of other names...) **is always downstream of a change of direction, and fades rapidly**. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xsYP9.jpg) Inherent vibrations - on the other hand - tend to be consistently present when printing along a given direction, and do not fade. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ao2ZR.jpg) Mechanically, ghosting works like this: 1. The moving part is travelling along - for example - the x-axis, when suddenly the direction of movement becomes the y-axis. 2. At that moment, the stepper motor of the x-axis stop rotating, but the [momentum](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momentum) of the moving part stretches the belt even so slightly past the intended stop point. 3. At this moment the belt becomes like a rubber bend / spring, absorbs the kinetic energy of the moving mass and releases it by "throwing" it past the intended stop point in the other direction. 4. This keeps on repeating a number of times, but at each pass, some of the energy is dissipated, and the moving mass moves less end less away from the ideal stopping point. 5. While all of the above is happening, the object has also begun to move along the y-axis, so the extruded plastic looks "weavey" along the y-axis. Understanding how this process works, makes it possible to understan why the three main factors affecting ghosting are: * The **amount of mass** being moved * The **speed, acceleration and jerk** settings * The **elasticity of the mechanical components** Namely, **mass and speed are important because their product is the momentum**. That in turn means that diminishing either one of the two will reduce the amount of "overshooting" past the stopping point. Elasticity of the mechanical components is important as **the more flex/stretch the part can take for a given amount of force, the more overshooting** a given momentum will result in. Finally, **acceleration and jerk are important because** - simplifying things a bit - **the faster the change of direction happens, the less time the system has to adjust** without vibrating. So, concretely... what can you do to fix/reduce ghosting? Three things, of course! :) 1. **Reduce the mass being moved**. Depending on the geometry of your printer, the mass being moved could be the bed+print, the printing head, or an entire gantry. These are normally considerations done when designing the printer itself, and engineers normally mitigate problems by using lighter materials (plastic over metal, aluminium or carbon fiber over steel, etc...), or adopting different designs (like using a Bowden extruder instead of a direct one, to save the weight of the stepper motor). 2. **Reduce speed, acceleration and/or jerk**. Speed is normally the safest bet, as - besides your prints taking longer - there is really no penalty for it. Acceleration and jerk - on the other hand - can cause overestrusion at sharp corners. 3. **Reduce the elasticity of the system**. This is commonly achieved by tightening the belts and eventually switching to more rigid rods / tracks / rails. A couple of resources that may come in handy for you to understand and solve the problem better: * A [really nice article](http://www.desiquintans.com/ringing) with illustrations (two of which I "stole" for this post) * A [test model](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:277394) specifically designed to highlight any possible ringing problem with the printer. * A [video](https://youtu.be/AKTvykTPjQw) showing lots of different test prints done with various settings (very useful to understand how changing the above parameters affects the print). Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: To expand on the #3 solution: reducing the elasticity of the system, if you have your filament mounted on the top of your printer, placing the filament elsewhere on a separate spool holder can also reduce ghosting. Tightening the belts and moving my filament got rid of ghosting for me on my MP Maker Select. Upvotes: 2

2018/02/03

<issue_start>username_0: Anet A8 with Cura. First time use. The extrusion temperature is set at 190 °C for PLA but the temperature never quite gets that hot, e.g. 189.2 °C. So the printer never prints. The bed temperature is fine. Any suggestions on how to fix?<issue_comment>username_1: Two common problems to look out for in this situation: * Make sure that your **part fan** (the fan that is supposed to cool the filament you just extruded, and that does not start spinning until the print starts) do *not* blow air on the hot end of your extruder. * Make sure that your **hot end is well insulated**. If available for your printer, silicone sleeves are the best: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7TKQM.jpg) otherwise the most common, universal and low-cost solution are cotton pads: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcwSc.jpg) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Take a careful look at the thermistor in the hotend. If it's defective it might well not be providing correct temperature information back to the control board. As a very quick check, try swapping the thermistor from the bed (if possible), or buy a replacement thermistor and drop it in. I'm not familiar with the Anet controller but possibly there's a calibration pot on the board; if so it may be causing the digital hardware to mis-read the actual sensed temperature. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: It could be as username_2 said, that the thermistor is broken. But it looks like the PID is not calibrated correctly. It probably can reach higher T's but stops, because the P portion is not high enough. Anyways, before printing use a software of your choice (Repetier, Pronterface...) and perform a PID tuning specified here: <http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning> After that everything should work out fine. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Please check that the power supply's (SMPS) output voltage is 12 V (while loaded). **Note: Be careful while measuring, as there is a hazard of shock.** In my case, the voltage was 10 V with one supply and 8 V with another supply. I bought a new one with 12 V and the printer is now running fine. My printer Tronoxy i3 (Prusa i3 Mk-II). Hope it helps you too. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Often it is the filament. Most PLA filaments start melting at 190 °C and have a good print consistency up to about 220 °C. If filament is ever getting stuck in the extruder, up the set temperature. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: I had the same problem. ***If** your mains supply is 110 V*, then make sure that the voltage selector switch of your PSU is set to 110 V... it should then print. If the voltage selector switch is set to the default of 220 V, *and the mains supply is only 110 V*, then the PSU will not provide enough current. --- Note: If your mains is 240 V then changing the voltage selector to 110 V will damage your PSU or worse. Upvotes: -1

2018/02/04

<issue_start>username_0: I'm new to 3D printing and I recently got a LulzBot Taz 6 printer. I'm interested in doing dual extrusion printing (especially with dissolvable supports), but I'm also interested in doing single extrusion prints. In particular, I would like to experiment with printing flexible filament. The [LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head](https://www.lulzbot.com/store/tool-heads/lulzbot-taz-dual-extruder-v3-tool-head) says that it can handle all the filament types that I am interested in. Here is the question: can I use a dual extruder (in particular, the LulzBot TAZ Dual Extruder v3 Tool Head) for general purpose printing (read single extrusion) or do I need to use a single extrusion head for single extrusion print jobs. If you can use a dual for single use, why buy single extruders (I've been looking at [LulzBot TAZ Aerostruder Tool Head](https://www.lulzbot.com/store/tool-heads/lulzbot-taz-aerostruder-tool-head) for flexy prints) if you can get the same performance out of a dual head? If you should use a single extruder for non-dual prints, please explain the shortcomings of using a dual print head for general purpose use.<issue_comment>username_1: Not an expert by any means but I can’t see any reason you couldn’t use one half of a dual extruder. The benefits of not using one though would be decreased extruder weight. Especially given that this is a direct drive so there will be two stepper motors I believe. Reduced weight means faster print times and a reduction in certain print artifacts such as ringing etc. Short answer, if your only ever going to need one extruder probably avoid a dual but if you want the flexibility this should work when a single extruder is required. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This may be too late to help, but I wanted to describe my own experience with the Lulzbot Taz Dual Extruder v3. It was...[not good](https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R259P3UB6DJYQ3?ref=pf_ov_at_pdctrvw_srp). In terms of your question, I spent a fair amount of time trying to do exactly this. It is possible, but there are some major caveats: * If you are not printing with both extruders, you need to leave the one not in use unloaded. The reason for this is that, at least with PLA, the extruder not in use will get hot enough to drip. * The Cura-Lulzbot software, at least when I used it last year, doesn't deal well with this. It tends to default to printing with both extruders, and it made slicing much more complicated than it was with a single extruder. As such, I personally gave up and swapped my old single extruder back in. This isn't meant to contradict the other answer. In theory it should be workable. But in practice, with the device you mention, it's not. Upvotes: 2

2018/02/05

<issue_start>username_0: I saw an extruder mod on Amazon *"EAONE 2 Pcs PTFE Teflon Tube (2 Meters) with 4 Pcs PC4-M6 Fittings for 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament (2.0mm ID/4.0mm OD)"* Anybody know how this is fitted? Is it simply tapping the feed hole on the top?<issue_comment>username_1: Is [this](https://www.amazon.co.uk/EAONE-Teflon-Fittings-Printer-Filament/dp/B077X6FW97) what you are referring to? If yes, the cold end of the extruder is nomally already tapped and you simply have to screw the new fitting in it. The PTFE tube itself needs just to be fed through the hole in the fitting **until it cannot go any further**. Failing to do so will most likely result in a clog and/or leaking. It is a self-locking mechanism, in order to release the tube you have to press *down* the plastic flange on top of the fitting while pulling *up* the PTFE tube. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: that item is for a bowden setup. (the a8 does not come with a bowden setup, but can be modded to have one.) when installing the bowden setup on a a8, the first thing you will need to do is move the motor to somewhere else, there are tons of choices on thingiverse. then the PC4-M6 fitting will screw into the black aluminum piece that the throat used to screw into. and the other end will go into a customised hot end. again tons of choices now this is oversimplified, because installing a bowden extruder on a anet a8 is a lot more complicated than explained above due to the sheer number of options. just search anet a8 bowden and you will have lots of choices. but it works as username_1 said, the PTFE tube slides into self locking fittings, the PC4-M6. to release simply push the top of the fitting down and pull out the tube. source, my own anet a8 modded to have a bowden setup. Upvotes: 0

2018/02/06

<issue_start>username_0: I had been printing with ABS and took the advice to alter the fan so I can see the filament when I am loading it into the cold end. It was tricky but doable. I am now trying with PLA and getting it to line up with the whole is a nightmare. Can the driving cog and guide wheel be moved? A couple of mm would stop the driving cog pushing the filament off line.<issue_comment>username_1: I was having the same issue as you and know what you are talking about and there is a file that you should print that will help you (I have printed this). While the file says for the Anet A6, I think the extrude are the same on the Anet A8. It goes under the gear and bearing and guides the filament to the hole. Should work well for you. Other things that you can do is straighten out the filament. That is what I do, it helps that much more. You can also cut the end at a angle to sharpen the end with a pencil sharpener, also helps find the hole. So try the file, I think it will help you would. File --> <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2242903> Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: On the A8, the idler wheel is fixed, but ought to be in-line with the top of the hot-end if everything is properly assembled. You can also check that the top of the throat is smoothly finished (it should be OK, but you might have a poorly manufactured example). Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: A lot of people complain on the filament insertion of the Anet A8. Personally, I have no problems at all. I cut the filament under a sharp angle and pre-bend the filament (not completely straight) and push it in the hole, it works every time without having to disassemble the extruder fan. Note that if you have the throat screwed in too much that it sticks out of the aluminum throat holder of the extruder (so not the part where the brass nozzle screws in) it is way more difficult to insert. I kept the top of the throat more or less flush with the block. Other techniques to insert filament include: * cutting the old filament (straight cut) and let the extruder feed while you press the new filament on top of the old filament stump, if done correctly the friction will feed the new filament right after the old, * print [filament guides](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2366523) for inside the extruder gear cavity, * removable or magnetic fan brackets. Upvotes: 0

2018/02/06

<issue_start>username_0: I have a homemade 3D printer running on ramps 1.4 When i start a new print and the hotend reaches melting point of PLA, the PLA start coming out of the hotend. This goes on for as long as the temperature is kept above melting point, without moving the extrusion gear. The extruder is a bowden type. Hotend is a J-head. I am currently using simplify if that makes any difference regarding configuration. Any ideas what to do to prevent this from happening?<issue_comment>username_1: Does it really go on for more than a minute or so? You can't get filament from nowhere, so if the feed gear isn't moving, sooner or later all the material in the reservoir inside the nozzle & hotend will be melted and gone. Leakage like this is normal, and probably a lot more noticeable if you have a larger diameter nozzle. I would recommend checking to see if your gcode includes a large retraction at the end of the print. That would reduce the pressure and the amount of material left inside the hotend. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: > > Any ideas what to do to prevent this from happening? > > > You cannot prevent it entirely, but **you can probably mitigate the problem by depressing the lever that squashes the filament against the hobbed gear of the extruder** before starting to heat the nozzle. In bowden extruders, the long portion of filament between the stepper motor and the nozzle is subject to compression during the print. Because of the hysteresis in the filament, and of the slack between filament and PTFE tube, this filament acts like a slow-releasing compression spring. When the nozzle cools down, the potential energy stored in the filament is "frozen" in place. By depressing the lever, you allow the spring to extend "backward" towards the spool, rather than "forward" through the nozzle. Some oozing is still bound to happen because of gravity and - as highlighted by others - thermal expansion, but it should be significantly less. **If you adopt the lever trick, remember to print with a skirt**, as you will want the printer to recreate that "compression" in the filament before the model proper begins. **Another way to address the issue would be to add a little bit of retraction** in the closing stanza of your GCODE (the part where you also tell the printer to unpower the steppers and stop heating). This will prevent any "compression" to be "frozen" in the first place. This anwer is based on the assumption that the stepper motor is not actively spinning (i.e.: yours is not a hardware/firmware issue). Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2018/02/06

<issue_start>username_0: I'd like to attach a piece I printed out of PLA to a small titanium rod. I've previously used Superglue (cyanoacrylate) to glue PLA pieces to each other with great success, but the problem is that if you don't apply it perfectly cleanly, it leaves very noticeable stains on the PLA. Can anyone recommend a good glue for this application that won't leave stains like that?<issue_comment>username_1: I've been a fan of epoxies for unusual adhesion problems. I found on [Amazon a product with titanium](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000FW6322) in the name, but there's a caution regarding polypropylene plastics. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfKGn.jpg) PLA is not of that family of plastic, which gives it a good chance of success. Epoxy is typically more viscous than cyanoacrylates, giving you a bit more control of the application, but also creating the need for care with "ooze-out." The big glue company, Gorilla, also makes an [epoxy](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001Z3C3AG) that includes plastic and metal in the adhesion listing. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1OTc.jpg) As PLA is somewhat sensitive to heat, one would consider that fast-cure epoxies generate more heat than slow-cure epoxy, but the amounts you'll be using are not likely to create enough for concern. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: A glue gun would IMO work very well, and you can use transparent (or almost transparent) glue sticks to minimize ugly looking stains. Things glued together usually break before the glue (in my experience) and it's cheap, you can get one for $10 with some glue sticks. It's fun too, I glue everything since I bought one :-) Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Try using one of the "gooey" forms of cyanoacrylate. Any of the major brands sells this-- it has the consistency of toothpaste, so it won't "run" along your pieces. Here's one that I've used with success: [loctite goo](https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y49R7G/) Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: After perusing <http://www.thistothat.com/> I decided to give J-B Weld epoxy a try. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Most glues will leave some type of visual stain. The glues that won't leave some type of visual stain probably won't stick as well. For example, you can use rubbery RTV type glues, but you will need surfaces designed to minimize the need for glue strength. However, an advantage is the glue will flex. My favorite is Gorilla impact resistant superglue. Superglue breaks easily when flexed if not impact resistant. If you want to go to the trouble, epoxies are best. Rubbery type glues will work if you have enough surface area, especially if it is not all planar. Upvotes: 0

2018/02/07

<issue_start>username_0: I read that the best way of removing ABS was to let the temperature at the hot end to drop to around 190deg c then a sharp pull. This worked really well. I am trying to print with PLA but no matter what temperature I drop the hot end to I get left with a length of PLA in the feeder tube. OK I can heat the hot end and poke the excess down with a wire but that is a pain. I think the technique is right but the temperature is wrong. Any help great fully appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: One resource you can use is called the [nylon cleaning method](https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-use-3d-printer-cleaning-filament). It works by setting nylon filament temperatures, pushing nylon filament into the nozzle until only nylon is extruding, then cooling the hot end to a specific temperature. The page linked suggests a hard yank, but I disagree. Brutality is not a recommended action for 3D printers, in my opinion. When I use the NCM and the hot end reaches the correct cooler temperature, I use pliers and lever them against a suitable surface. The lever action is slower, yet the mechanical advantage is increased, making removal easier. Some 3D printer users disagree with the expense of nylon, which is, on the surface, excessive. I've found that I am able to see light through the hot-end after using this method, however, so I find the expense justified by a completely clean filament path. The above linked page also includes the modification of this method for use with the same type of filament to be cleaned, in your case PLA. Consider that you should be able to use ABS to pull PLA from the nozzle. Heat the nozzle to the lower end of your ABS filament temperature and push or extrude until you get the ABS color. Allow the hot end to cool to the low end of PLA temperatures and reverse the extruder/pull out the filament. If you use contrasting color filament (for example, white PLA, black ABS) you should be able to see the ABS collecting the other color as you remove it. Eventually, you would have no contrasting color, indicating that the previous filament has been removed. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: In line w/ Fred.U's answer, I've been pretty comfortable with the following sequence. Assume a cold start with a filament in the feeder (and cold gunk in the hotend). 1) bring the hotend up to 5 degreesC over your usual extrusion temp for the filament currently in place. 2) If the filament doesn't pull out easily (possible clump at the end), push the filament down and hold it there so the end fully softens/melts. Then remove the filament. 3) Load the new filament desired and push it down until the new material flows freely out of the nozzle. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: So with my PLA I heat the nozzle to 180\*C, just enough to get it to melt. Push the filament through a little, maybe until a half-inch or so comes through. Once I got that I pull it out as quick as I can. It should not be forceful, meaning no resistance, should just come right out. I have never had a issue doing this and I can switch to a new color or plastic without problems, only having to extrude 4" to get the leftover PLA out of the nozzle. Hopefully this will help you out a little with this issue. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Looks like I had a gap between the hot end and the screwed rod. A gap filled with cool pla. A sort of washer for want of a better description. Will let you know if heating above temp is the answer Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]

2018/02/08

<issue_start>username_0: Some filaments suggest "reducing cross-sectional area" of the print. Is this referring to the vertical plane or horizontal plane? In other words, if I were to print a rectangular prism, would I want the long side of it printed in the vertical direction or parallel to the print bed?<issue_comment>username_1: One resource you can use is called the [nylon cleaning method](https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-use-3d-printer-cleaning-filament). It works by setting nylon filament temperatures, pushing nylon filament into the nozzle until only nylon is extruding, then cooling the hot end to a specific temperature. The page linked suggests a hard yank, but I disagree. Brutality is not a recommended action for 3D printers, in my opinion. When I use the NCM and the hot end reaches the correct cooler temperature, I use pliers and lever them against a suitable surface. The lever action is slower, yet the mechanical advantage is increased, making removal easier. Some 3D printer users disagree with the expense of nylon, which is, on the surface, excessive. I've found that I am able to see light through the hot-end after using this method, however, so I find the expense justified by a completely clean filament path. The above linked page also includes the modification of this method for use with the same type of filament to be cleaned, in your case PLA. Consider that you should be able to use ABS to pull PLA from the nozzle. Heat the nozzle to the lower end of your ABS filament temperature and push or extrude until you get the ABS color. Allow the hot end to cool to the low end of PLA temperatures and reverse the extruder/pull out the filament. If you use contrasting color filament (for example, white PLA, black ABS) you should be able to see the ABS collecting the other color as you remove it. Eventually, you would have no contrasting color, indicating that the previous filament has been removed. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: In line w/ Fred.U's answer, I've been pretty comfortable with the following sequence. Assume a cold start with a filament in the feeder (and cold gunk in the hotend). 1) bring the hotend up to 5 degreesC over your usual extrusion temp for the filament currently in place. 2) If the filament doesn't pull out easily (possible clump at the end), push the filament down and hold it there so the end fully softens/melts. Then remove the filament. 3) Load the new filament desired and push it down until the new material flows freely out of the nozzle. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: So with my PLA I heat the nozzle to 180\*C, just enough to get it to melt. Push the filament through a little, maybe until a half-inch or so comes through. Once I got that I pull it out as quick as I can. It should not be forceful, meaning no resistance, should just come right out. I have never had a issue doing this and I can switch to a new color or plastic without problems, only having to extrude 4" to get the leftover PLA out of the nozzle. Hopefully this will help you out a little with this issue. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Looks like I had a gap between the hot end and the screwed rod. A gap filled with cool pla. A sort of washer for want of a better description. Will let you know if heating above temp is the answer Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]

2018/02/09

<issue_start>username_0: I'd like to mirror a triangular prism I made. However, whenever I select it I am only able to select the faces or sides. Is there a way to select the whole 3D object to move or mirror it?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, there is a "select" tool in the toolbar next to "make". You can use select filters to select components, bodies and faces. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Selecting the body in the browser will select the entire body. Clicking on the body in the viewer will only get you faces or edges. A long click (click and hold) on the model will give you options on what to select. You can choose a face or body under "Depth" or choose a body or feature under "Parents." Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: In the top left of your workspace (still inside the editor) you will have a dropdown, in that dropdown there is a folder called bodies, open that and select the body you want. You can then move the selected body. Upvotes: 2

2018/02/09

<issue_start>username_0: When using `G1` command in G-code, what is the difference between `Z`- axis and `E`- axis? I see all `E`, `F` and `Z` in ``` G1 Z0.350 F7800.000 G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000 G92 E0 G1 X96.753 Y95.367 F7800.000 G1 E2.00000 F2400.00000 ```<issue_comment>username_1: z-axis refers typically to vertical movement F references are feed rates/movement rates E references are for the extruder, referencing the amount and speed to eject filament, negative e-values are retraction commands Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: G-CODE can be confusing as historically it was [developed for username_2hining tools](http://ws680.nist.gov/publication/get_pdf.cfm?pub_id=823374) rather than FDM printers, and thus: * not all available commands make sense for a 3D printer * some of the command do slightly different things than those one may intuitively think they do. Typically, Cartesian printers use 4 "axis": `X`, `Y` and `Z` for moving the printhead in space and `E` for "extruder". The "extruder axis" is not in fact at all an axis in the geometrical sense of the word: it refers to the amount of filament to be moved into (extruded) or out of (retracted) the printing head. The reason why it is considered an "axis" is that it is used in conjunction with the codes `G0` and `G1` which are for movement. Confusingly, the letter `E` is [used for the precision feedrate of lathes](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code#Letter_addresses) but in the 3D printing world we rather use `F` to that purpose. As a non-native English speaker, I was further confused, because for the longest time I thought "feedrate" was referring to the amount of filament *fed* to the printing head, while in fact it is the speed at which the printing head moves (in mm/minute). So to summarise, your example code "translated" would look like this: ``` G1 Z0.350 F7800.000 ; move up 350 microns at 7.8 m/min G1 E-2.00000 F2400.00000 ; retract 2mm of filament at 2.4 m/min G92 E0 ; reset the extruder position G1 X96.753 Y95.367 F7800.000 ; move to X,Y (without changing Z) at 7.8 m/min ``` Should you wish to dig deeper into the topic, the [RepRap wiki page on gcode](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code) is rather comprehensive. Mind that several manufacturers add their own "special codes" to the common ones.... Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2018/02/10

<issue_start>username_0: I realize this issue (warping) has been repeatedly addressed on this site. I've just graduated to high-temp filaments (PC in particular). I don't know much of the physics of this. I'm wondering whether the degree to which the filament contracts is proportional to the amount that it cools. If the answer is yes, then wouldn't it suggest that a lower printing temperature might reduce warping-as the temperature interval over which the filament cools is smaller? Or perhaps the difference is negligible? Also, I see a lot of emphasis placed on good first layer adhesion. Is this still an issue if you are printing on a raft?<issue_comment>username_1: I can't address polycarbonate specifically, but can provide a general overview of the higher temperature filament considerations. Printing on a raft means that the adhesion temperature of the filament is accomplished. This temperature is the factor to be considered if you are thinking of dropping the printing temperature. If you drop below recommended minimums, you risk losing adhesion to the build plate and also inter-layer bonding. That alone means one should use caution when dropping printing temperatures. Printing with a raft usually means the model's individual parts have such a small footprint that they would not remain bonded to the build plate. Rafts are also used on printers with an uncertain planar surface or irregularities in the surface. That's not applicable to this question, generally speaking. Your question about contraction being proportional to the amount of cooling is perhaps misdirected. One could consider that the printing temperature is a manufacturer specified value and the cooled temperature would be generally considered room temperature. Room temperature would be addressed as a range, rather than a single value, but even as a range, there isn't going to be a big percentage of variation in the calculation involving the print temp/room temp. My experience with the higher temperatures is more related to the volume of material per cross section (in all three dimensions). A printed model of substantial height with a relatively small horizontal cross section (think cylinder) is likely to have much less distortion in the x/y plane and greater distortion along the z-axis. The mass of filament cooling in the z-direction generates greater force than the smaller mass on the x/y axes. Another factor in such thought processes is that layers are on the x/y axes and the strength of the extruded plastic is more homogeneous through the nozzle, while the z-direction creates inter-layer discontinuities, making warping and delamination easier. I've found that I can reduce (but not eliminate) warping and delamination if I am able to maintain chamber temperature for longer periods and reduce temperature slowly. Unfortunately, I have a semi-enclosed printer and the heat loss is dependent partly on the ambient air temperature. A fully enclosed heated printer with auxiliary heating under some form of control may give you the best results. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The answer already provided by @fred\_dot\_u at the time of writing is good, so I won't rehash what they already said, but will try to answer your questions from another angle: > > I'm wondering whether the degree to which the filament contracts is proportional to the amount that it cools. > > > **Yes. This is generally true for any solid material.** This [property](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_expansion) is linked to the fundamental nature of matter in the way we understand it today. > > If the answer is yes, then wouldn't it suggest that a lower printing temperature might reduce warping-as the temperature interval over which the filament cools is smaller? > > > Shrinkage is the *root* cause of 3D prints warping, however **warping itself happens because of the differential in temperature *between layers***: when a hot layer is extruded on top of a cold one and begins to contract, it will apply a compressing force on the layer underneath, bending it. In fact - if warping were a function of shrinkage - an enclosure would do no good: sooner or later the print would cool down to room temperature, and would warp. The reason why - contrarily - an enclosure works, is that it limits the differential in temperature between layers (which causes warping) and lets the entire print too cool uniformly and slowly afterwards. So, would... > > ...a lower printing temperature reduce warping? [...] Or perhaps the difference is negligible? > > > **Nothing beats real world data, especially when the issue has so many variables that are difficult to account for, as in 3D printing, so I would invite you to simply try** to print the same model twice, only changing the printing temperature (and of course making sure the environmental temperature is the same), and see if it does. **From a theoretical standpoint, I could argue both ways**. On one end, I could argue that this is nothing different than using an enclosure set at a slightly warmer temperature than the environmental one, so it will reduce warping (even if by not much). On the other hand, I could argue that until the filament is solid enough, it won't be able to "pull" the layer below, so it doesn't matter if the extrusion temperature (fluid state) is 230°C or 210°C, if until 190°C the filament won't begin to "pull". So warping will be identical. > > Also, I see a lot of emphasis placed on good first layer adhesion. Is this still an issue if you are printing on a raft? > > > **Yes, as also the raft has a first layer that needs to adhere to the build plate**. Rafts typically have a discontinuous and over-extruded first layer over a large area, which definitively helps with adhesion, but you still have to make sure the raft sticks well. In my experience it is **far easier for a raft to come off the build-plate than for the model to come off the raft**. YMMV though, as the material of the build-plate, and the slicer can dramatically affect this. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]

2018/02/10

<issue_start>username_0: That's my first 3d printer. I'm using Repetier Host as the brand recomends, and set all the configuration as the recommended one. I decided to print one STL file but the result is not the best one. That's what I was trying to print: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1V22.jpg) and that's what I've got. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iPEfT.jpg) Here you have a video of the impression. [it is a G2S pro rostock mini](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDdBQL44R3M)<issue_comment>username_1: From the video it is very clear there is **a major problem with bed adhesion**. It also looks like you are printing on bare metal (aluminium?) which I never saw anybody doing. I must admit I don't know it is impossible or simply very rare, but the first thing I would try in your case is **[covering the bed in painter's tape](https://youtu.be/G2wAsP1biFc) and wipe it with some alcohol**. This is a surefire method to get good adhesion with PLA, which - from the temperatures shown in the video I assume is what you are using. If you haven't tried this before, you should know that: * some brands of tape work well even without being wiped with alcohol * you may need to readjust your nozzle height after having applied the tape Unless you have already done this, I would also suggest to print some [test cubes](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865) and possibly some [stress tests](http://www.3dbenchy.com/) as your first prints, in order to check that the basics (extrusion rate, dimensional accuracy...) are working correctly, as well as getting familiar with the limitats of your printer. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I would suggest buying Buildtak, which is a high-quality adhesion surface. This surface is almost guaranteed to make your prints stick to your bed. If Buildtak is outside of your budget, I would suggest using a relatively high grade painters tape combined with either purple gluestick or hairspray applied to your bed before each print. Upvotes: 1

2018/02/11

<issue_start>username_0: I was wondering if adding (an) extra fan(s) (not connected to the printer, but blowing on the print area) could improve the quality of PLA based prints(printing at 210 C). The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend, but is it beneficial to add an extra fan in order to get better results on overhangs, fine details, etc, or does extra cooling negatively/not affect print quality?<issue_comment>username_1: > > The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend > > > **Unless your printer is defective, it may look like so, but the airflow should really be directed towards the print, not the hot-end**. Cooling the hot-end will at best just waste energy, requiring extra heat to keep it hot, at worst affect your print quality negatively. > > is it beneficial to add an extra fan in order to get better results on overhangs? > > > The issue with external fans, not connected to the printer, is that you can't properly direct their ariflow, so: * you *will* direct some of it on the hot-end itself (see above on why that's not good) * you will potentially cool your print unevenly, which - depending from how much, how fast, and what type of filament you are using - may warp your prints That said, depending from a number of factors, including your ability to position the fans appropriately, **you *may* gain some benefit from them (I saw people doing this to help with PETG stringing), but I would recommend instead to upgrade the part fan of your printer (e.g.: larger diameter, higher RPM) and your duct (better focus on the extruded filament)**, as these upgrades will have no drawbacks and will perform consistently on each part of the print. For most common printer, there are printable mods that allow to do both, often available off thingiverse or on dedicated user community forums. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Fan blow at hot end is necessary because hotend needs cooling. For PLA it will yield better result with a seperate controllable fan direct airflow across the print head, but just like everything with 3D printing, you will need to test out every possible configuration to get the best for your setup. Upvotes: 0

2018/02/12

<issue_start>username_0: I had a problem with my nozzle on my homemade printer. The problem was that the nozzle with a 0.4 mm diameter wasn't putting out any plastic. I replaced the nozzle with a 0.2 mm one and now the bottom of my model is looking like this: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UFSHV.jpg) I tried to change flow,temperatures and speed. But nothing helped it keeps making this waves. At the old 0.4 mm nozzle there everything was okay.<issue_comment>username_1: Without more detail is difficult to say with certainty what the *root* cause of the problem is, but it looks like **too much material is being deposited on the bed**. A few things to try/check: * **Make sure the nozzle is not leaking**. If it is, you should see fused plastic coming out from the seal nozzle/hot-end and/or hot-end/heat break and trickling down. This is often the case when the nozzle hasn't been tightened enough, or it has been changed with the hot-end being cold, or if the internal PTFE tube has been dislodged upwards (does not apply to all-metal hot-ends). * **Make sure you changed the appropriate setting for the nozzle diameter**. This is *not* "flow" it is a separate setting. If you haven't, your printer is now extruding ~4 times as much filament as it ought. * **Recalibrate your nozzle height**. This should be done at each nozzle change, as each nozzle is slightly different from the other, and it is possible your new nozzle now sits too close to the bed. **EDIT**: also, the picture is too low-res to be sure, but looking at the skirt, **it looks like the extruded plastic comes out in blobs**. If it is not due to leakage, then I would suggest to also check that the filament is not slipping through the gears of the extruder. If you have access to a suitable thermometer, you could also check that the hot-end temperature is stable at the level it should. Final thought: have you ever succeeded printing with that filament spool? It is unlikely, but it may be for example a defective one, or a mis-labelled one (so your printing temperature may be wrong). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Okay, there are a few potential issues here: 1: your belts are not tight enough. This will cause your bed to shake during printing, giving you wavy first layers. 2: your filament is bad. If you have an inconsistent filament diameter, thus can lead to inconsistent extrusion rates, and cause a wavy appearance. 3: your nozzle is jammed. The nozzle you bought may have something stuck inside of it, leading to underextrusion, which, in some cases, can lead to a wavy appearance. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: The layer thickness should not be more that 75% of your nozzle diameter: [Wavy lines on 1st layer only](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11679/wavy-lines-on-1st-layer-only) Upvotes: 2

2018/02/12

<issue_start>username_0: Quick thing: Please tell me if I misuse any of the terminology On a replicator+, I have been printing successfully for a while, when suddenly the raft started to warp. I was doing a bunch of models that covered the whole tray, so I shrunk to just a small area, but It still warped I read up on how to fix, but most covered how to fix warping in the model itself, not the rafting. Some said to lower the temp, would that work? smart extruder at default settings, 215 C. The printer does not have a heated base, nor have I treated it with anything, and I am using it with the stock program (makerbot print). Otherwise, I am using it as it came out of the box. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1k0PE.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Lowering the raft temp to 200 degrees C should help. You should also apply hairspray and purple gluestick to your entire printed to help with raft adhesion to the bed. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm not sure I am reading your post correctly, but if you are doing a batch of small prints, I would recommend to **space them enough so as each of them has its own mini-raft, rather than all of them sharing the same large one**. If you are using cura, you can tweak how much the raft goes past the footprint of the part. Unless you are printing *very* small parts, you don't need that to be a lot. In general, **you should think to a raft as a print in and by itself: the larger it is, the more prone to warping,** although the way filament is layered with gaps makes the raft bend and warp a lot less than a regular print of the same size. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2018/02/13

<issue_start>username_0: Just last night the heat bed stopped working. It was fine up to 75 % of the print, then when it was done the bed was not on anymore. The display said it was set to 50 °C, but it was at 18 °C. I did try moving the pins, and that is not loose (very simple thing to try). I want to know what could have happened and what to look for when I try to fix the heat bed. Please note: I do have a multi-meter. I do not use a MOSFET (I do have plans to install on) Upon further investigation, I tested the mother board for any voltage were the bed hooks up and there is nothing. I had the printer trying to heat the bed when I was testing. But the thermistor is working, when I unhooked the connection the thermistor went to 0 °C, when plugged in it went to 18 °C. Is it the motherboard? How can I fix this knowing no power is being supplied to the bed from the motherboard? Do I need a new motherboard?<issue_comment>username_1: This is a shot in the dark, but the vast majority of problems with a heating bed stopping to work is usually at the cables/connectors interface. This is because in printers like the A6, the cable/connector is subject to constant mechanical stress, and - since [metal fatigue](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_Fatigue) is a thing - either the solder or the cable core cracks. You should make good use of your tester to verify the integrity of the circuit in the bed and if it is not toasted you should be able to just repair the connection. For many printers there exist "strain relief mods" to prevent this type of failure to happen. The first one showing up for the A6 is [a full chain](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2020947), but normally is enough the have a small enclosure for the connector like [this one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186203) for the CR-10. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The bed stopped working yesterday. I used the multimeter on the bed plug. The bed heater reads 1.7-1.8 Ohm. There was no 12 V supplied from the mainboard and I read its terminals. There were 12 V there. I tightened the screws and the plug received 12 V. The bed heated for one print. Today I repeated the troubleshooting and found that the bed plug still had 12 V. When I pulled it, the Red terminal was burnt and melted into the plug. After cleaning it by inserting and removing it several times, the bed started working again. The Red and Black wires are hot to touch though. This is the troubleshooting procedure one should follow. What remains to be confirmed is whether the resistance of the bed heater is correct; 1.8 Ohm at 12 V is about 80 W. Sounds about right, so the wires should not overheat. I suspected a possibility of the shorting to the aluminum bed, but then the bed would be heated only in some areas, but mine is heated evenly across the entire surface area. Edit: For now I ended up cutting the Red wire's terminal from the plug and soldering the wire directly to the bed. I might order the new bed harness from Anet, or not. Upvotes: 1

2018/02/13

<issue_start>username_0: I recently rebuilt my A8 printer to have a metal frame and replaced the board with a GT2560 reva+. I'm having problems with the temp readings from both my hotend and hotbed. Using marlin 1.1x and Its possible I have something configured incorrectly. I can get successful prints with good quality but sometimes I get thermal runaway during a print. Both cold and at temp (200c) have fairly large temp spikes. I didn't have this problem with my old board. I had much smoother temp curves. I'm using the default PID values for Ultimaker Kp 22.2, Ki 1.08, Kd 144. I have tried to use PID autotune but get drastically different values every time I run it and using the results gave worse results (sometimes giving a heating error during the autotune). I checked all the wiring and nothing looks frayed or damaged. First pic is cold temps. Second is trying to do a PID tune. Third and fourth are during a print. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7H8KC.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EpW8E.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9bU0.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GwyP4.png)<issue_comment>username_1: I had a similar problem and there could be three reasons(if the connections are ok): * thin wires to the hotend * one of the MOSFETs was fried * the termal sensor wasn't good enough insert into the hotend Try to measure the hotend heating element voltage while printing. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This really looks like a bad connection, so try with your old board to see if the broken connection is on the board, or it's the temp sensor or the wires. I had exactly this problem with a bad connection from the temp sensor. If you didn't break anything, it's the board that's fried / badly connected. Upvotes: 1

2018/02/14

<issue_start>username_0: Right now my heated bed is down and I had no time to try and fix it and I am trying to print something for a friend. I am having the PLA lift around the edges which I have NEVER experienced. The glue is not helping like it did with the heat. And I also tried rubbing alcohol on the masking tape I use, heard that helps and it was not that much better than the glue stick. What can I do to keep the plastic sticking to the bed during print. I will note that the lift is not super bad, but I do like the littlest of lift on any print.<issue_comment>username_1: Most of the same reccomendations that apply for adhesion to a hot bed apply for a cold one. The first ones to come to mind: * really dial in the nozzle height * make the first layer taller than the rest (e.g.: 0.2mm if the rest of your print is 0.1mm) * print the first layer very slowly * print the first layer at higher temperature * use a brim or a raft (on my first printer, that had no heated bed, rafts gave the least deformation) * turn off the part fan for the first layer * adapt your model to reduce twisting forces (relief cuts, print it in parts, choose orientation wisely, etc...) If your slicer has this feature, you could also try to print with a shroud. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: **Fresh** 3M blue painter’s tape coated in a watered down solution of Elmer’s white glue works wonders - even when cold - for PLA. The tape needs to be re-applied and coated for each print for it to **really** stick, but it beats every other print surface I have tested for PLA other than PEI @ 70 °C. I’m guessing it has something to do with microscopic surface fibers on the tape... (I like to print PETG as well, and that sticks too well to PEI, so I use blue 3M tape for both.) Upvotes: 2

2018/02/15

<issue_start>username_0: While I don't think this is easily possible I am wondering if it can be done. So my spool of filament had a tangle and got pulled into the printer head. Some got melted together and after cutting I have a few strands. Would it be possible to mend the ends together to make one continuous strand instead of many small strand?<issue_comment>username_1: Sure, but you need to be careful not to have wide or narrow spots. A fixture for this is probably better than freehand welding. See some ideas for a homemade fuser at <https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-join-or-fuse-filament-together> Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As @davo says in his answer, this can be done rather easily, but the main problem with this kind of approach is reliability of the joint: sure, it must last only a short time, but during that time it will have to survive bending through your bowden tube (if applicable) and withstanding the grinding of the hobbed gear pushing it through the extruder. I personally only used the [PTFE method (plus heat gun)](https://youtu.be/7Vuh4Mwm_4k), which is substantially identical to the tinfoil one outlined in the link provided by @davo but here's a couple of observations: * **Freshly cut filament seem to work best**. I guess this is because there is less chances for contaminants like dust, skin oil etc... to find their way to the surfaces you are trying to bond. * I had **no problem melting together PLAs of different brands**. * **You may have to tune the flow "on the fly" via the knob on the printer** to accommodate for different diameters between the two spools you spliced (not applicable to your specific case of "plastic surgery" (pun intended!) on the same spool. * I find the bond **works best if the two filaments are cut at an angle** (so that the actual bonding surface is larger) * A **light sanding to smooth out any seam and reduce the diameter** of melted part a bit is in order Upvotes: 1

2018/02/18

<issue_start>username_0: I'm currently in the process of fine-tuning my cheap CTC i3 clone. I'm using Cura 3.1 for slicing. After calibrating the extruder steps, I wanted to optimize the line width and flow compensation parameters. I am using a 0.4 mm nozzle and therefore set the line width parameter to 0.4 mm in Cura. I then printed a cube with 0% infill, 1 wall line and no top layers (basically an open cube with 4 bottom layers). The wall width I measured on the printed result is 0.52 mm. To correct for the difference I set the flow compensation to 80% and repeated the print. The wall width I got from this was 0.45 mm, which is much better than before. There is only one problem: the parallel lines in the four bottom layers do not touch, so the print is not watertight. Up to now I assumed that Cura would calculate the distance between the lines from the line width setting. So with 0.45 mm lines and line width set to 0.4 mm there should even be some overlap. Why am I seeing this effect? Am I getting something fundamentally wrong here?<issue_comment>username_1: That is very bizarre. Since GCODE describe each movement of the printing head (so, the printer does not get to decide anything in terms of printing strategy, it just executes), I can only see three possibilities that would explain what's going on. **The print is being scaled up at printer level**. This could for example be due to your firmware having your steppers improperly calibrated and moving them too much for a given unit of measure (say you say 1mm, they move 1.5mm instead). This is easy to check: if this is the case, your cube will be scaled up (so - using the example above - if your cube is 10x10x10 it will come out 15x15x15). **You are printing with a raft**. Then there is no problem with your set-up, the first layer(s) of a raft are not solid, but intentionally "grated". Check your settings to verify. **Cura is producing the "wrong" gcode**. This could be *really wrong* (as in "you found a bug", in which case you should report it on their github), or just *look wrong* (as in "you found a weird combination of setting producing that gcode", in which case you should reset the settings to their default and see the problem disappear). Either way, if the gcode is "wrong", you should notice the gaps in the gcode preview mode in Cura. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It's impossible to get a true measure with calipers because of the bumps from layer lines. The printer/slicer is working on an average of the peaks and troughs but the calipers only measures the peaks. Thus, after measuring and compensating, you told it to under-extrude and it did. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Cura does not adjust line width to account for lower flow (aka extrusion multiplier), they are independent settings. Therefore, if you have to reduce extrusion to get the correct wall thickness, then as you said, the lines may not be close enough together to fuse properly and you'll have a weak part. Try reducing the line width. First though, I would take the below troubleshooting steps: 1. [Calibrate e-steps in firmware](https://www.3dmakerengineering.com/blogs/3d-printing/estep-calibration) 2. [Calibrate the actual diameter of the filament you're using](https://filaments.ca/blogs/3d-printing/how-to-measure-3d-filament-diameter) 3. [Calibrate flow for the correct wall thickness](https://3dprintbeginner.com/flow-rate-calibration/) 4. [Adjust line width in Cura if needed to get proper fusing](https://www.3dprintbeast.com/cura-nozzle-size-line-width/#:%7E:text=For%20setting%20line%20width%20on,by%20using%20the%20search%20box.) Lastly you might want to check for a partial nozzle clog which can cause under-extrusion, though that is usually not consistent Upvotes: 0

2018/02/20

<issue_start>username_0: As part of a project with my university, I have developed a new extruder to attach to a Prusa i3 MK2. My problem is that both the nozzle and PINDA probe have moved 17mm forward and 0.5mm to the right. As a result when I try and calibrate the printer it moves to the home position and the PINDA probe is too far out over the heatbed so it doesn't detect the printing surface. What is the simplest method of moving the home position so that the printer can be properly calibrated? UPDATE: I am planning on removing the heatbed and placing spacers that will move the printing surface 17mm forward. This should then prevent the printer losing any printing area and hopefully prevents me having to edit any code. Can anyone see any problems with this I'm overlooking? The simplest thing to do would be to move extruder 17mm closer to be the same as the original printer but my deadline is fast approaching and I haven't time for a redesign that large.<issue_comment>username_1: Consider the original installation with the orientation of the Pinda probe to the nozzle. Let's say for argument's sake that the Pinda probe is 3 mm to the right and directly in line with the nozzle on the y axis. If you examine your new nozzle, I would expect that the relationship of the nozzle to the Pinda probe no longer matches the original spacing. If possible, re-design the mount to place the Pinda probe in such a way as to match the original design. Thanks for pointing out my oversight, Mac. If the relative position of the nozzle and pinda probe are as the original, the solution is then in changing the appropriate parameters in the firmware. I found a [reference](https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/prusa-i3-mk2-homing-offset-t5256.html) for someone who had a bit smaller error in home position, but the concept is the same. The link above points to information reading thus: > > In Configuration\_Prusa.h: > > > Code: Select all // Home position > > > define MANUAL\_X\_HOME\_POS 0 > ============================= > > > define MANUAL\_Y\_HOME\_POS -2.2 > ================================ > > > define MANUAL\_Z\_HOME\_POS 0.15 > ================================ > > > // Travel limits after homing > > > define X\_MAX\_POS 250 > ====================== > > > define X\_MIN\_POS 0 > ==================== > > > define Y\_MAX\_POS 210 > ====================== > > > define Y\_MIN\_POS -2.2 > ======================= > > > define Z\_MAX\_POS 210 > ====================== > > > define Z\_MIN\_POS 0.15 > ======================= > > > it will be necessary to connect the printer via USB to a computer running an Arduino IDE and to load the Prusa specific files for that printer. Edit the noted location, save/write the configuration and test. I would suggest small adjustments in only one or two parameters at a time, to avoid ambiguity in the cause/result sequence. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: > > What is the simplest method of moving the home position... > > > I think the solution outline by @fred\_dot\_u is very elegant, so I would go with it. > > ...so that the printer can be properly calibrated? > > > I'm not sure that will be possible. Because the physical lenght of the axis hasn't changed, by moving the nozzle/probe, you have actually reduced their reach in the opposite direction, so the probe may be unable to travel on top of the intended calibration points (the usable printing area has also shrunk, but that's less of a problem). If that is the case, I can't think of an easy solution (bar not using the auto-calibration feature altogether). Upvotes: -1

2018/02/21

<issue_start>username_0: Is the firts time that I saw this movement after the printing has finishig and causes the nozzle crashes to the printed part and I noticed due the part is 14x8 and the nozzle is to near and below to the border of the shape. I supposed that some scripts has changed but, seems to be everything ok. this is the end script: ``` G92 E0 G1 E-1.5000 F1800 ; layer end M104 S0 ; turn off extruder M140 S0 ; turn off bed G28 X0 ; home X axis M84 ; disable motors ; Build Summary ; Build time: 3 hours 9 minutes ; Filament length: 12689.1 mm (12.69 m) ; Plastic volume: 30520.78 mm^3 (30.52 cc) ; Plastic weight: 38.15 g (0.08 lb) ``` Z axis moves down 4mm after finishing going to X0, why? I don't want the nozzle crashes the part on going to zero.<issue_comment>username_1: You can use: ``` G91 G1 Z10 ``` `G91` make the printer use ralative positioning, while `G1 Z10` would move the gantry up of 10mm, reagrdless of its actual position. In order to understand what's going on, you could experiment with the position of those lines in the script. The safest bet it to insert them at the very top, but you could insert them straight after the homing of the X axis to understand if the drop you are seeing is caused by the homing command itself or by the ´M84´ one. My *guess* is that the drop is actually caused by the latter. `M84` doesn't really "disable motors", rather it stops using energy to keep them still (i.e.: it stops the *idle hold*). What I believe is happening in your case is that when you stop the idle hold, the weight and mechanical play of the X gantry causes it to move slightly (a bit like when you relax your body on the sofa and you "sink" in it a bit more). Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: There is something fundamentally wrong with your z-motor drive if both screws are dropping the gantry at all. Try a couple experiments. Write a quick script to move the head somewhere up high, then terminate without the X-homing command. See if the z-axis moves. Ditto for X-home but not motor disable. Write any script, and while the gantry is up high, pull power and see what happens. That will at least help narrow down the list of possible problems. In the meantime, please post your printer, the motors, and the driver board/firmware in use. Upvotes: 2

2018/02/22

<issue_start>username_0: Is there an integrated kickback protection in stepper motor drivers or should I make my own? I am afraid the steppers might fry the driver or the arduino when i turn off the power for them. I do that by turning off the power supply. I haven't had an issue yet but it still bothers me.<issue_comment>username_1: Kinda, sort of, but not really. I'll look at the A4988 ([datasheet](https://www.pololu.com/file/0J450/a4988_DMOS_microstepping_driver_with_translator.pdf)). The motor pins are connected by diodes to ground and Vbb (the motor suppply voltage). Essentially, they act as a bridge rectifier making any back EMF or inductive spikes appear (rectified) on Vbb. If you were to suddenly power down the driver this could cause a rather large spike on Vbb. According to the datasheet, there is a 40 V Zener on Vbb which will clamp the voltage to that level. (Another popular stepper driver, the DRV8825, does not appear to have this Zener - always check your datasheet!) So, yes, there is inductive kickback protection. However, it only clamps the voltage to 40 V. Depending on the rest of your circuit, this could be quite damaging. The datasheet recommends that a 100 μF capacitor be placed on Vbb. If you are driving a typical stepper motor with 2 A and 4 mH coil inductance, the energy stored in the coil is 8 mJ. This energy is only enough to take the capacitor up from 12 V to ~17.5 V, so if you have a large enough capacitor on your stepper driver (as you should!) then you're protected against inductive kickback. Note that if you move the motors by hand then you can still build up a higher voltage on Vbb. I've heard anecdotes of people who damaged their printers like that. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: "Inductive kickback" from motor coils is caused by the inductance of the coils and the wiring. It is not some strange effect. Inductance is charged with current, just as capacitance is changed with voltage. Most bipolar motor drivers use an H-bridge on the output. By driving the H-bridge correctly, the driver can continue to provide a path for the motor current when it is no longer applying voltage, such as by connecting both wires of a motor to ground. Although some may find it counter-intuitive, connecting the Vmot side of the motor to Gmot, while the other side remains at Gmot, keeps current flowing in the coil more smoothly and with lower losses. The voltage across the motor coil is near zero, so there is little voltage trying to change the motor current. If the coil is undriven and subject to the clamping diodes, the voltage across the motor will me much higher, and the current will stop faster. The higher ripple current in the motor increases the coil heating, may increase audible noise, and decreases the efficiency of the drive. Upvotes: 0

2018/02/23

<issue_start>username_0: I just got my first 3D printer today, QIDI X-ONE[2], and so far so good with the setup and getting my 1st print. I wanted to power off the printer, but I don't see any instructions on how to properly power off the machine. Does anyone know how long I should wait, or what the minimum temperature would be safe to power down the machine?<issue_comment>username_1: Kinda, sort of, but not really. I'll look at the A4988 ([datasheet](https://www.pololu.com/file/0J450/a4988_DMOS_microstepping_driver_with_translator.pdf)). The motor pins are connected by diodes to ground and Vbb (the motor suppply voltage). Essentially, they act as a bridge rectifier making any back EMF or inductive spikes appear (rectified) on Vbb. If you were to suddenly power down the driver this could cause a rather large spike on Vbb. According to the datasheet, there is a 40 V Zener on Vbb which will clamp the voltage to that level. (Another popular stepper driver, the DRV8825, does not appear to have this Zener - always check your datasheet!) So, yes, there is inductive kickback protection. However, it only clamps the voltage to 40 V. Depending on the rest of your circuit, this could be quite damaging. The datasheet recommends that a 100 μF capacitor be placed on Vbb. If you are driving a typical stepper motor with 2 A and 4 mH coil inductance, the energy stored in the coil is 8 mJ. This energy is only enough to take the capacitor up from 12 V to ~17.5 V, so if you have a large enough capacitor on your stepper driver (as you should!) then you're protected against inductive kickback. Note that if you move the motors by hand then you can still build up a higher voltage on Vbb. I've heard anecdotes of people who damaged their printers like that. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: "Inductive kickback" from motor coils is caused by the inductance of the coils and the wiring. It is not some strange effect. Inductance is charged with current, just as capacitance is changed with voltage. Most bipolar motor drivers use an H-bridge on the output. By driving the H-bridge correctly, the driver can continue to provide a path for the motor current when it is no longer applying voltage, such as by connecting both wires of a motor to ground. Although some may find it counter-intuitive, connecting the Vmot side of the motor to Gmot, while the other side remains at Gmot, keeps current flowing in the coil more smoothly and with lower losses. The voltage across the motor coil is near zero, so there is little voltage trying to change the motor current. If the coil is undriven and subject to the clamping diodes, the voltage across the motor will me much higher, and the current will stop faster. The higher ripple current in the motor increases the coil heating, may increase audible noise, and decreases the efficiency of the drive. Upvotes: 0

2018/02/23

<issue_start>username_0: What is the power consumption of your heatbed (size) and hotend (model)? I want to verify that it is possible to use a battery to power them.<issue_comment>username_1: I have a Kill-A-Watt meter so I got a pretty good measurement for you with my Anet A6. Like Petar said each model is different but this should give you a idea. When heating both the nozzle and heat bed the printer consumes 160 W of power, once to temp it backs down to 9 W (it also uses 9 W when just "sitting doing nothing and is on"). When the nozzle and bed get down in temp it hits back up to 160 W. Basically it is never a consistent heating, it is on and off. Like a refrigerator. When it comes to heating only the nozzle the printer uses 60 W (so 51 W is going to the nozzle for heating). When it comes to heating only the bed the printer uses 142 W (133 W to the bed). This is interesting because it would make sense the printer needs more than 160 W when 51 W is going for the nozzle and 142 W going to the bed, that makes 193 W. I make mention of this because that may suggest my power supply is not big enough and the printer could really use around 200 W. As a little bonus when the printer is moving around (stepper motors are active) I find it using 35-40 W (or 26-31 W) to power the steppers. So with all the said, is it possible to use a battery? Yes, you could. And to give a example a car battery should have 80 Amp-hours (or something like that, but we will go with it). With that battery you can get 960 Wh (Watt-hours) from the battery before it dies. Going with my printer using 160 W I will get 6 hours of printing time. But keep in mind as the battery is used the voltage will drop, so in the end the printer will be getting something like 10 V which I am sure will affect heating and overall performance. Last thing I feel that needs to be said. If using a inverter to convert the 12 V battery to 110 V (or whatever voltage you use) a cheap one will not be healthy for the printer. Cheap inverters put out square waves instead of sines waves. Basically it will hurt the printer. You can learn more at this [WEBSITE](http://www.zelect.in/inverter/square-wave-inverter-vs-sine-wave-inverter) "Update" on March 4 I read a comment that mentioned running right off the battery without a battery and then I thought of something that I did not think of before. And that would be protecting the battery itself So I said you can run the printer off the battery. There was one issue that I had not thought of. And that was the voltage drop and the battery discharged. A battery usually does not have voltage-cut off to keep the battery from being overly discharged, and a printer does not have anything to measure voltage (why should it). So a simple hook up of a 3D printer to a battery is prone to drain the battery much lower than 10 V, which will greatly shorten a battery life-span. This can be prevented two ways. A circuit between battery and 3D printer. There is plenty of circuits that can be bought as long as they cut power to printer at 10 V or something (for lead acid anyway) and can handle the amperage draw. An inverter can also be used because this voltage cut off is already in them. But remember that square waves are bad for the printer. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: To answer the underlying (X-Y) question, yes it is possible to power a small 3D printer from a battery pack. [This Article](https://www.3ders.org/articles/20171005-naomi-sexycyborg-wu-3d-prints-on-the-go-with-awesome-wearable-3d-printer.html) describes a printer built by Naomi Wu, mounted on a frame to carry around whilst printing, as a 'novel' style of sponsored video. The printer here is a BIQU Delta printer, and the power supply is 2x 3Ah batteries (guessing this is @12V, but it's not clear). Presumably there is no heated bed, but still the run-time will be quite limited. The important part for working out battery life is the duty cycle of the hot-end, not the load required to get it up to temperature. This probably comes to something like 15-30 watts on average, provided you can live without a heated bed. Of course, if you have 10-15v batteries, the printer will probably run off these directly, no need to waste energy converting up to 110/220V and back again. Upvotes: 1

2018/02/23

<issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to design a heat block without cartridge heater? My idea is to build a very small heat block to increase/decrease the heat as fast as possible. The resistance of the heat block will be used. The current to this block is 500mA and is set constant with a circuit. The voltage will be set with pwm. Is this possible with 500mA and 5V (2,5W)?<issue_comment>username_1: I have a Kill-A-Watt meter so I got a pretty good measurement for you with my Anet A6. Like Petar said each model is different but this should give you a idea. When heating both the nozzle and heat bed the printer consumes 160 W of power, once to temp it backs down to 9 W (it also uses 9 W when just "sitting doing nothing and is on"). When the nozzle and bed get down in temp it hits back up to 160 W. Basically it is never a consistent heating, it is on and off. Like a refrigerator. When it comes to heating only the nozzle the printer uses 60 W (so 51 W is going to the nozzle for heating). When it comes to heating only the bed the printer uses 142 W (133 W to the bed). This is interesting because it would make sense the printer needs more than 160 W when 51 W is going for the nozzle and 142 W going to the bed, that makes 193 W. I make mention of this because that may suggest my power supply is not big enough and the printer could really use around 200 W. As a little bonus when the printer is moving around (stepper motors are active) I find it using 35-40 W (or 26-31 W) to power the steppers. So with all the said, is it possible to use a battery? Yes, you could. And to give a example a car battery should have 80 Amp-hours (or something like that, but we will go with it). With that battery you can get 960 Wh (Watt-hours) from the battery before it dies. Going with my printer using 160 W I will get 6 hours of printing time. But keep in mind as the battery is used the voltage will drop, so in the end the printer will be getting something like 10 V which I am sure will affect heating and overall performance. Last thing I feel that needs to be said. If using a inverter to convert the 12 V battery to 110 V (or whatever voltage you use) a cheap one will not be healthy for the printer. Cheap inverters put out square waves instead of sines waves. Basically it will hurt the printer. You can learn more at this [WEBSITE](http://www.zelect.in/inverter/square-wave-inverter-vs-sine-wave-inverter) "Update" on March 4 I read a comment that mentioned running right off the battery without a battery and then I thought of something that I did not think of before. And that would be protecting the battery itself So I said you can run the printer off the battery. There was one issue that I had not thought of. And that was the voltage drop and the battery discharged. A battery usually does not have voltage-cut off to keep the battery from being overly discharged, and a printer does not have anything to measure voltage (why should it). So a simple hook up of a 3D printer to a battery is prone to drain the battery much lower than 10 V, which will greatly shorten a battery life-span. This can be prevented two ways. A circuit between battery and 3D printer. There is plenty of circuits that can be bought as long as they cut power to printer at 10 V or something (for lead acid anyway) and can handle the amperage draw. An inverter can also be used because this voltage cut off is already in them. But remember that square waves are bad for the printer. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: To answer the underlying (X-Y) question, yes it is possible to power a small 3D printer from a battery pack. [This Article](https://www.3ders.org/articles/20171005-naomi-sexycyborg-wu-3d-prints-on-the-go-with-awesome-wearable-3d-printer.html) describes a printer built by <NAME>, mounted on a frame to carry around whilst printing, as a 'novel' style of sponsored video. The printer here is a BIQU Delta printer, and the power supply is 2x 3Ah batteries (guessing this is @12V, but it's not clear). Presumably there is no heated bed, but still the run-time will be quite limited. The important part for working out battery life is the duty cycle of the hot-end, not the load required to get it up to temperature. This probably comes to something like 15-30 watts on average, provided you can live without a heated bed. Of course, if you have 10-15v batteries, the printer will probably run off these directly, no need to waste energy converting up to 110/220V and back again. Upvotes: 1

2018/02/23

<issue_start>username_0: Does anyone know of a good way to convert a 3D print file, like STL, to STEP - a useable file format for plastic injection molding companies? I have tried to convert the files through a couple of programs without success. The most requested file is a STP or STEP file. If there’s no easy way to convert it, which I don’t think there is, does anyone know someone good at re-creating CAD files?<issue_comment>username_1: I've been able to manipulate an STL file using the hobbyist version (free) of Fusion 360. There's a series of steps involved that may require some research and experimentation, at least it did in my case. One loads the STL file into Fusion 360 by using Insert, Mesh. Once loaded, turn off history. The next step is to [convert the mesh file to BREP](https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-Convert-a-Mesh-to-a-BRep-in-Fusion-360.html). In that form, the surfaces can be edited and the model can be modified if necessary. I have not exported to STEP, but have confirmed that [Fusion 360 supports STEP](https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-export-a-design-in-Fusion-360.html) as a valid export file format. Both links provide additional information that may be of value to your project. Consider also to double check your STL file to ensure it is manifold. [Meshmixer](http://meshmixer.com/) is useful for such purposes. One model imported into Fusion 360 had entire faces removed due to a manifold error in the original model. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: **The fact you may be able to produce a STP file is no guarantee the company will be able to injection mold it.** You should ask the intended recipient of the file what are the *actual* requirements they need for making the injection mold. **STEP and STL are not two different ways to store the same information**. They are two different standards with different goals. Both can describe the geometry of a solid shape, but **STEP has plenty more of functionality** designed to store information about the manufacturing process of the part. For example, while most CAD software deals with the STEP substandard AP 203 "configuration controlled 3D design" **it may be that the company you are trying to work with requires information about the injection molding process itself**, that would probably be regulated by the AP 223 part of the standard ("exchange of design and manufacturing product information for cast parts"). If that is the case, **I strongly doubt any CAD software will be able to automagically create that information out of thin air**. With an analogy: it is like you were dealing with a TXT file and the publishing company asked for a DOCX one. You may easily save the TXT as a DOCX, but what the publisher is really after is a document with a hierarchy of titles, font information, formatting, etc... and just saving the TXT as DOCX won't automatically generate those. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: It depends very much on the molding company, and how much engineering service you can afford to buy from them. Some will remodel your entire part anyway, to make it suitable for molding. Others will only accept specific formats and parts that are engineered 100 % ready to be molded. So talk to them first, if they only use your file as a template, it won't matter what format it is in. To answer the question: I believe [FreeCad](https://freecadweb.org) can load STL, and export STP but, like Mac said, it may not be the result you need. STL = Surface Tessellation Language. This stores the geometry as approximated by a mesh of triangles. It is incapable of perfect curves, so there is some information lost when the model was exported to STL. STP or STEP can represent surfaces correctly, but only if that information is present in the model. Put in a tessellated model and it will still be tessellated. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: > > a good way to convert a 3D print file like STL to STEP a useable file format for plastic injection molding companies > > > I don't know much about plastic injection molding companies, but I do manipulate a lot STEP, STL files and I do know that it is possible to achieve *"a good way to convert […] STL to STEP file format […]"*. For the record, the manufacturing process isn't recorded within these files format (at least not yet) so you don't have to specify the final use. However, this is a delicate process which isn't easy for beginners in CAD engineering. As said before, the [STL](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/STL_(file_format)) files is a tessellation of a surface with triangles, while [STEP](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_10303-21) defines precisely the surface with curves. It's basically the difference between [raster graphics](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics) and [vector graphics](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics): most fully automatic reconversions programs (such as Inkscape in case of images), would create something quite approximate to the real shape. Manual programs would require time and knowledge of the needed tools (Inkscape can do it too, in case of images). For the record, asking for a STEP file to be a STL file is as easy as transforming a vector graphic to a raster graphic, it's a one-click transformation. What you are asking, the reversed, is complicated. What will be done if you import a STL file to a standard CAD program, it will consider each triangle as a defined unique surface, and in most cases, the standard CAD program will have a lot of difficulties to handle the STL. It could then export it to a STEP file, but this will make a huge, incredibly heavy file difficult to handle (I've seen STEP files over 300 MB while the STL was less than 10 MB). The **good way** to do so, is to go through a reverse engineering program that handles better these troubles. I don't know any being free, and they all require extensive experience, expansive licenses and a bunch of time generally. For instance, I know that [Catia](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Se2GUfs_TI8), [SpaceClaim](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8RDOfXEh-o) or [3-Matic](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BT1vj4l155E) are programs that work very well for your issue, but they are both very far from affordable or easy to handle if you aren't a CAD designer. Another **bad way** would be to pass through a 100% automatic reconstruction/conversion to STEP, but it would make something not exactly accurate to the original part, and may not be of any use depending of your application. My best advice for this would be to find someone or some enterprise that can practice the **good way** from your STL to have the STEP file you want. You should also very much specify for what use your file is, because as a design engineer I wouldn't generate the same STEP file depending of the use of each surface. I hope this answer isn't too much a disappointment for you, I know it won't solve your problem but it can help you understand why it is such a hard problem. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: I found a website, [CadMesh](http://www.cadmesh.com/), to convert the file for me. So far they are a free platform. I recommend to give it a shot. Doing some research on internet I also found this good tutorial: [Bantam Tools Blog - Convert STL to STEP](http://blog.bantamtools.com/convert-stl-to-step) But the FreeCAD software seems to have some limitation on handling complex shapes. It may work for you. --- > > ### Step 1: Download a Conversion Tool > > > Our conversion tool of choice is FreeCAD because it’s free, relatively > simple to use, and does a good job of converting STL files to usable > solid models. Download it [here](http://www.freecadweb.org/wiki/index.php?title=Install_on_Mac). > > > ### Step 2: Import Your STL File > > > * Open FreeCAD. > * Create a new file (File menu > New). > * Import your STL file (File menu > Import > select your STL file). > * From the dropdown menu in the top toolbar, choose Mesh design (see screenshot). > > > [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YDxY.jpg "FreeCAD1_mesh_design") > > > (Credit: OpenSCAD Chess by <NAME>) > > > ### Step 3: Repair the Mesh > > > * Open the Evaluate & Repair mesh tool (Meshes menu > Analyze > Evaluate & Repair mesh). > * Select the mesh from the dropdown at the top of the Evaluate & Repair pane. > * One by one, go down the list, clicking Analyze and then Repair if the analysis finds any problems. > * If clicking the Repair button for "Folds on Surface" makes your mesh look terrible, you can skip that one. > * If clicking the Repair button for any other option makes your mesh look terrible, you’re likely out of luck. However, you should > still try the next steps in case you get lucky. > > > [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uj2cN.jpg "FreeCAD2 analyze repair") > > > ### Step 4: Convert Your Mesh to a Shape > > > * From the toolbar dropdown menu, choose Part. > * Select your mesh in the left pane. > * From the Part menu, choose "Convert to shape." > * Leave the Sewing Tolerance at 0.10 and click OK. > > > [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EL53l.jpg "FreeCAD4") > > > ### Step 5: Convert the Shape to a Solid > > > This is the moment of truth! If FreeCAD is able to convert the shape > to a solid, you’ll be able to save it as a STEP file. If you get a red > error message in the bottom left corner of the screen, you’re out of > luck. > > > * Select the newly created shape. > * From the Part menu, choose "Convert to solid." > * If it works, you’ll see a new item in the list in the left pane that ends in "(Solid)." > > > [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/96d3u.jpg "FreeCAD5 convert to solid") > > > [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aIKud.jpg "FreeCAD6 done") > > > ### Step 6: Export Your Solid to a STEP File > > > * Select your newly created solid file in the left pane. > * From the File menu, choose Export. > * From the Export dialog, choose "STEP with colors (\*.step \*.stp)". > * Save your file. > > > [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7m7gb.jpg "FreeCAD7 export") > > > You're done! > > > Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: Converting mesh files to solid formats is a complex task. While converting files from mesh to solid you should look for accuracy, number of patches, nurbs pattern, file size and many other variables that should be taken in consideration based on the use you will give for the solid file. I have compiled some thoughts as a starting point for your research. Make sure your STL/OBJ/PLY (mesh) file has a decent quality. You can use free software to validate your file such as Meshmixer and MeshLab. You will CONSIDERABLY increase your chances by having a watertight model. If the model does not have a closed mesh, you will most likely have a hard time/fail converting it. There are 4 ways to do it: 1 – Using a free software This is a valid solution for a simple shape models. The best tutorials are posted here on GrabCAD. Here are some tutorials available on internet: <https://grabcad.com/tutorials/how-do-i-convert-stl-graphics-to-a-solid-model> Convert STL (or OBJ) Mesh to SOLIDWORKS Model (NURBS) How to convert STL to STEP using FreeCAD <https://blog.bantamtools.com/convert-stl-to-step> 2 - Professional software solution This is probably the best solution for companies with a high conversion volume on CAD/CAM demand. Some of these companies offer a free software version for students. The best solutions I have found: - 3D Systems Geomagic Wrap - Fusion 360 - Power Surfacing (SolidWorks plugin) - TransMagic 3 - Hiring a professional freelancer This is the best option for a one-time project, higher chance to get a decent converted file for an affordable price. Try to look for the feedback/customer review before hiring someone. I have seen professionals charging as cheap as US$25 per model/conversion. You can check on these options (there are many others): <https://www.upwork.com> <https://www.fiverr.com> <https://www.freelancer.com> 4 - Online conversion platform There are solutions with instant delivery/conversion, and others that take some hours to send you the file. I found solutions varying from free online conversion to pricy service. There are prices as low as US$1 per model/conversion. You may need to do some touch up on the files converted from automated platform before you send it to a CNC or other CAD/CAM username_2hine. You can check on these platforms: <http://cadmesh.com> <https://www.convertcadfiles.com/> Have in mind that, the higher is the model complexity (shape) the harder is to convert the model. If trying to convert a 3D scanned model, make sure to have a closed mesh and a high-density mesh definition. During your Google research, you can also use the term “model surfacing”. Good luck! Upvotes: 0

2018/02/26

<issue_start>username_0: I am having problems with my tevo tarantula large bed 12Volt power supply, I am getting the thermal protection message when heating my bed with target temperature set to 115 degrees. The process slows down after reaching 90. I changed merlin settings to trigger thermal shutdown after 5minutes/2degrees and added a cover to the printer, so getting now 103 degrees (usually shutdown was at 100/101). link to a video showing panel: <https://photos.app.goo.gl/jiW9NE7wEB4H0mOy1> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3D0P.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: You need to increase the power of the heated bed. With a given amount of power, there is an upper limit to the maximum temperature you can reach because at a given point losses due to conduction, convection and radiation will balance out the heating power and the temperature will not increase any more. Sometimes, inability of the bed to heat up is due to the supply voltage sagging under load. First, measure the supply voltage with and without the bed turned on. If you find the supply drops significantly when the bed is turned on, you need a new power supply. Otherwise, you will need to either: 1. Get a new, higher-power heated bed. Make sure that it is compatible with your electronics, or upgrade them as needed. 2. Increase the supply voltage so that the bed you already have will give more power. Some power supplies have a small adjustment potentiometer that lets you adjust the output voltage. Be careful when doing this. Even a small change in voltage gives a big increase in power. For a heated bed with resistance R at voltage U, the power dissipation is U2/R. Going from 12V to 13.5V already gives 26% more power. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Some simple steps that may help to reach higher temperature: 1. Check if you can use heated bed insulation of any kind - the most common approach is to use cork sheet 2. Protect heated bed and printer from any possible air movements - arrange a set of walls around printer or just simply put it in the cardboard box large enough 3. Cover heated bed with cloth or cork sheet until it reaches desired temperature 4. Replace wires from heated bed to the power supply with thicker ones (2.mm2 / AWG14 should be fine) Upvotes: 2

2018/02/28

<issue_start>username_0: I have modified my Prusa i3 MK2 printer so that the existing extruder motor has now been attached to a 5mm lead screw with a 1mm pitch. What is the easiest way to control the extruding of the printer now. For example is it possible to change the settings in slic3er at all for the extruder? or would I have to download and edit the marlin firmware?<issue_comment>username_1: The firmware of the printer reads the g-code, in this instance, for z-axis movement. The g-code provides only (primarily) millimeters of movement and direction, along with speed. The firmware reads those figures, figuratively speaking, and knows from the values stored in the firmware, how many steps to rotate the motor, in what direction and at what rate. I suppose if you were a glutton for punishment, you could write some code to convert the existing measurements to ones that are adjusted for the new screw, but that's just crazy. Imagine that your new screw provides for 3.729 times the movement that the old screw did per unit of rotation. You'd have to find all the z-movements in the code and apply that factor to those numbers. I suspect rounding errors might make for a less-than-satisfactory print. As you've mentioned in your question about editing the firmware, one may expect that you have an idea what is involved. If not, that may be the topic of another post. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can set the 'steps per mm' for the extruder (and the other axes) by sending GCODE to the printer, and store this in the internal memory. Re-flashing the firmware only affects the 'factory reset' configuration of the printer parameters. To see how to calibrate your extruder, you're probably best looking for videos since although the process is just a few GCODE commands, the whole process is not easy to understand. Upvotes: 0

2018/03/01

<issue_start>username_0: Anybody ever tried to retrofit a heatbed to the da Vinci mini w with the proper dimensions (165 mm x 165 mm or 6.5" x 6.5"). Where can I find a heatbed that fits and a corresponding power supply / PID controller?<issue_comment>username_1: The firmware of the printer reads the g-code, in this instance, for z-axis movement. The g-code provides only (primarily) millimeters of movement and direction, along with speed. The firmware reads those figures, figuratively speaking, and knows from the values stored in the firmware, how many steps to rotate the motor, in what direction and at what rate. I suppose if you were a glutton for punishment, you could write some code to convert the existing measurements to ones that are adjusted for the new screw, but that's just crazy. Imagine that your new screw provides for 3.729 times the movement that the old screw did per unit of rotation. You'd have to find all the z-movements in the code and apply that factor to those numbers. I suspect rounding errors might make for a less-than-satisfactory print. As you've mentioned in your question about editing the firmware, one may expect that you have an idea what is involved. If not, that may be the topic of another post. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can set the 'steps per mm' for the extruder (and the other axes) by sending GCODE to the printer, and store this in the internal memory. Re-flashing the firmware only affects the 'factory reset' configuration of the printer parameters. To see how to calibrate your extruder, you're probably best looking for videos since although the process is just a few GCODE commands, the whole process is not easy to understand. Upvotes: 0

2018/03/03

<issue_start>username_0: This print failed a couple of hours in. I was wondering if the nature of the print surface, with lots of retracts (similarly the previous print which was OK) might have contributed to the clog, or if it's just bad luck? To be clear, the surface has lots of short dead-end, not just a wiggly perimeter. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iymMN.jpg) The filament seemed to have stopped moving, and was cut through by the drive gear. This was a genuine Titan Aero extruder, 0.4mm nozzle, 215C (on an Anet a8 printer)<issue_comment>username_1: Reading your question it's not clear to me if you are referring to *filament retraction* (which is a configurable setting) or *surface recesses* which seems what you are referring to when writing: > > the nature of the print surface, with lots of retracts > > > If it is the latter, then the answer is "no". The amount of complexity of the surface of the model does not correlate *directly* to the possibility of the printer head clogging. If it is the former, then the answer is "possibly". **It is in fact not so much the amount of retracts that affects the likelihood of a clog but rather their speed and lenght**. If you retract *too quickly* and *too much* filament, you risk to have molten plastic being "sucked" into the cold end, solidify, and act as a glue, blocking the filament in place. **This is especially true for all-metal print heads** like titan aero, as plastic sticks a lot better to metal than to PTFE. However, **with a *properly calibrated* retraction, you shouldn't experience problems** regardless of how many times / how often you retract the filament. In general, it is a common misconception that retraction should work as a plunger, actively sucking in plastic that would otherwise ooze out of the nozzle. However **all you need is to just release the pressure within the melting chamber, and in a direct drive (i.e.: non-bowden) extruder, this requires a very minimal retraction**. Finally: what material are you printing in? The picture shows a lot of oozing for being PLA. If you are using a flexible material like nylon or ninjaflex, you should probably just let retraction alone: the hysteresis in such materials is very high, and retraction often does not work predictably. If it is PLA, I would try to increase the movement and retraction speed, and probably lower the temperature 10 or 15 degrees. As for the retraction lenght, I don't own a titan, but I would expect the correct amount to be somewhere between 0.5mm and 2mm. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: In addition to the retraction distance, in the case of this model, I was seeing some places where there were a lot of very close retractions. I think these were increasing the risk of damaged filament, so I reduced the 'maximum retraction count' which at 50 over a 5mm length seemed fairly high. Upvotes: 1

2018/03/04

<issue_start>username_0: After doing a lot of research, I've decided I want to purchase a Creality CR-10S as my first 3D printer. I'm trying to locate a reputable, local seller. Other than Amazon, which seems to have a bit of a mark-up on price, I'm finding several websites that seem to be located outside of the US. Can anyone direct me to a seller located in the US?<issue_comment>username_1: I am afraid unless you are available to accept the mark-up, you won't find a *reputable seller* other than in mainland China. The entire business model of Creality is "cheap-cheap-cheap B2C" and any step you add to the supply chain (like a reseller) will be: * **An added cost** that will be reflected on the final price you pay * **A reseller-based initiative**, meaning that it won't be part of a "creality global distribution network", but the project of that local entreprenour. That said, I read in a couple of places that **[tiny username_1hines](https://www.tinyusername_1hines3d.com/) (Houston, Texas)** does a good job by testing each unit prior to shipping, and has similar lead times than good sellers from China (a couple of weeks). Please note I am not affiliated with them in any way. For that matters, I don't even leave in North America nor have purchased anything from them. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I’ve bought two printers (CR-10S and Ender 2)from Tiny Machines in Houston Texas. They unbox them from China and assemble them and make a test print. You get a checklist of the tests performed. They will also flash a bootloader and updated Marlin for $10. Yeah, you’ll pay more but if you spend any time in printer forums you’ll hear lots of complaining about missing/broken parts or DOA units. They also stock spare parts here in the US. Good luck to you! Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: My friend found an Ender 3, basically the same thing as a cr-10, at Best Buy. I wouldn't be surprised if you came across a cr-10s there as well. Keep in mind if you are going to buy one, to also get a warranty as printers can come damaged and break later. It is better to be safe rather than sorry. Upvotes: 0

2018/03/05

<issue_start>username_0: I am building a Prusa i3 MK2S ([Dolly](https://toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/)). I find it very difficult to find M5 rods for the Z axis, I have an M8 lead screw with 8 mm lead, So I thought since M8 is widely available online I could just use them instead of M5. What do you think about it? What should I keep in mind?<issue_comment>username_1: Amazon has a few hundred M5 rods listed for sale, so I don't know where or what you've been looking through. If you change the lead screw, you'll have to change the threaded parts on the gantry assembly to match. More important, you'll have to adjust the Z-drive "steps/mm" setting to match the 8mm lead. (with thanks to Professor for pointing out my error) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: as long as you match the parts that is ok. The m8 rod will give you more stiffness and will be harder to bend. As the result, you will have to calibrate the steps/mm settings in the firmware. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: You can use the screws and rods you can find easily, of course some dimensions will change and is needed to adjust parameters. I used in my first 3D printer and standard screw of 9.5mm (3/8) the main problem was the coupling available in Mexico that werer none on that time. You can buy the bearings on Ali Express, they can send from there to Mexico, I guess they can deliver on your country. **The bearings has these sizes:** where is Number ID, inner diameter, outter diameter, width. ``` 608ZZ 8x22x7 607ZZ 7x19x6 6000 10x26x8 ``` Don't try to use 6000 :D is a little complicated to reduce the size for a proper coupling if you don't have a lathe. My 3rd Printer will use this kind of thread because is easily to find with no warpage and now I will use a lathe to reduce the coupling area to 8mm or 5mm since I have on hand the couplers. Upvotes: 1

2018/03/06

<issue_start>username_0: I'm getting seemingly random lines scattered across the top surface of my prints:   Printer: Anycubic i3 mega Slicer: Cura 3.2.1 Printer chosen in Cura: Prusa i3, *Gcode flavor* changed to *RepRap* Cura Profile: *Fine*, "Outer before inner walls" enabled What might be the reason?<issue_comment>username_1: Our local library has a genuine Prusa i3 Mk2.5 that recently had this problem. Because of the number of fingers engaging such a system, it was not immediately discovered that a different profile had been selected in which the Z-hop was turned off. Z-hop is a feature in which the nozzle lifts slightly (and is height-adjustable) as it moves from one portion of the print to another. According to my brief research, Cura supports z-hop in the settings. Either it has to be activated or perhaps slightly increased. The aforementioned Prusa works great with 0.5 mm lift. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: This is the result of travel moves passing through/over the top surface. The combing setting can prevent this type of move (for walls, infill or top), and z-hop can avoid making any mark during these travels. Both settings will affect speed. Z-hop will be active on every layer, for example. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Thanks to the answers of *fred\_dot\_u* and *username_2*, I did some more research. There are three features involved here: * Combing (follow the already printed path when travelling) * Retraction (pull back the filament while travelling) * Z-hop (move the nozzle up while travelling) The relationship between those settings is like this: * Retraction is only done when not combing\* * Z-hop is only done when retracting Therefore to lift the nozzle when travelling, one must disable combing and enable retraction and z-hop. This prevents the nozzle from scratching the surface. \* it was deemed unnecessary, but that might change in a future version; there is also a plugin that changes this Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: It seems like the issue may only be that your nozzle has developed a bit of oozing. The g code likes to repeat the same patterns for at least a few layers every time it changes patterns and if it does the same pattern on the top 3-4 layers than by the time it reaches the last layer on the top that pattern will actually be the slightest bit raised above the rest of the layers because of the ooze building up along the same pattern for how many ever layers it followed the same pattern. Your nozzle is than rubbing on that raised pattern when it completes the last layer. This explains the randomness like OP said because the g code may not repeat the same pattern for 3 or more layers at the surface but without reading the gcode it would seemingly be random when and where they occurred. And truthfully if its a small oozing you could reprint this and it could be gone if you changed almost any setting in cura because the g code would be recalculated differently and new patterns would be chosen but so long as the new gcode did not have the same pattern repeat itself on the top 3 or so layers you would not have these raised patterns for the nozzle to rub on when finishing the top last layer. Upvotes: -1

2018/03/08

<issue_start>username_0: One of the CAD programs I use is called [TinkerCAD](http://www.tinkercad.com), which lets you export your design in either STL or OBJ form. What is the difference between these two file types? And which one is better to use?<issue_comment>username_1: **STL is the *de facto* standard in consumer-grade 3D printing**. It is a bare-bone format that describes the shape of the object by defining the coordinates of all the vertices of all triangles that a surface may be subdivided into. This means that in STL any curved surface is represented with an approximation of many very small faces. OBJ is also somewhat common, but it was originally developed for computer graphics, not manufacturing, and as such is capaple to store information like the texture images to be applied to the surface, which are of no use in the 3D printing world. In terms of geometry description, OBJ is more capable than STL, as it can describe "real" curves, without the need to approximate them to a series of polygons. The benefit of this feature is however more theoretic than practical, as: * most entry-level CAD software don't make use of that feature and create a STL-equivalent OBJ file (so, still with polygons) * a typical STL model for 3D printing will have enough resolution to give the illusion of perfect curves (the same way a high-res screen gives the illusion of perfect curves, despite its pixels being arranged in a squared matrix), * the slicer/printer's firmware may themselves approximate an accurate curve to a series of segments Short said, **I would suggest you use STL unless you have a specific reason not to**. If you would find yourself in need to accurately describe curves I would rather use the STEP file format, as that has been specifically created for manufacturing, rather than "borrowed" from computer graphics. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: While the STL-format can only describe your object aproximatively by those well known triangles, OBJ-files can describe parts of your object parametrically by curves. This can lead to a higher precision and be a huge advance with regard to scalability. Which data format to choose depends, as always, on the application and the processes it contains. E.g. if you want to print large objects, you might consider the OBJ-format if your slicer can translate it to usable g-code. You might want to read this [article on All3DP](https://all3dp.com/3d-file-format-3d-files-3d-printer-3d-cad-vrml-stl-obj/) to get a brief overview. Upvotes: 1

2018/03/09

<issue_start>username_0: This question is similar: [Are there biocompatible materials available to the general public?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/156/are-there-biocompatible-materials-available-to-the-general-public) But appears to be for non-implantation use. This question is for materials intended to be implanted. Are any typical 3D printed (extrusion based 3D printer) materials, such as ABS or PLA (or slightly more exotic ones, such as kevlar, fibreglass, or carbon fiber), safe for implantation in the human body? Or in medical terms, are they biocompatible (biofunctionality is not topical for this question)? If not, why not? If most of them are safe, then please explain which ones are NOT safe. Highly relevant, and perhaps even more interesting is: Are there any peer reviewed medical papers that have investigated what materials are safe for implantation in the human body? A paper which answers this unambiguously would be the ideal answer to this question. Another concern is if the process of 3D printing itself adversely influences the properties of the material in the context of implantation applications. I've tried to determine the answer to this question myself, but I cannot find any papers or studies which answer it. I can easily find that ABS plastic is "non-biodegradable", but I suppose the issue of adverse host responses is more crucial, e.g. causing inflammation or it being a bacterial growth substrate to promote infections seems like plausible concerns. I'm sure there might be other dangerous complications too, which I'm not aware of. I found a paper dealing with corrosion issues for implantable metals: DOI: 10.1089/end.1997.11.383 I found a paper dealing with silicone-urethane being prone to breakdown: DOI: 10.1021/ma301965y I found a paper describing the properties and history of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), which appears to be commonly used as implants: DOI: 10.1109/EEIC.2005.1566331 By extension, a 3D printer using UHMWPE might be safe, barring any adverse chemical or mechanical issues as a result of the 3D printing process itself. However, it is not clear to me if any 3D printers can actually reliably print UHMWPE. Furthermore, it is unclear if UHMWPE is a sane choice, as it appears to be useful in applications where strength is required, such as for joints. What about other applications where load bearing properties are not required (e.g. a simple enclosure for implantable electronics)? I'm aware that titanium appears to be frequently used for implants, and while titanium 3D printers do exist, they are beyond the scope of this question. The valid context is extrusion based 3D printers in the sub $10,000 range (arbitrarily chosen to make the question avoid being tagged as "too broad").<issue_comment>username_1: Perhaps more than biocompatible, which generally refers to a material that does not illicit a harmful inflammatory response inside the body, you should be looking at bioresorbable materials, which are materials that dissolve inside the body after a certain time period without needing mechanical removal. As an example, FDA approved poly (lactic acid) is available in pellet form from Corbion (formerly PURAC biomaterials) and can be extruded into 1.75mm filament for use with any desktop 3D printer (<https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214860416301385>). Similarly, researchers have used poly (caprolactone) to 3D print scaffolds with using a stratasys FDM machine (<https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1002/1097-4636(200105)55:2%3C203::AID-JBM1007%3E3.0.CO;2-7>). Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Yes. I have worked with people who have printed implants of PCL, loaded with antibiotics, for delivery at the infection site: <https://www.google.com/search?q=pcl+medical+approval> Also look at PPSU: <https://www.google.com/search?q=ppsu+medical+approval> And PEEK: <https://www.google.com/search?q=peek+medical+approval> These are currently used for appliances; I'm not aware of them being used for implants yet. Upvotes: 0

2018/03/11

<issue_start>username_0: I have this [fan model](https://www.tme.eu/en/details/mf50151vx-a99/dc12v-fans/sunon/mf50151vx-b00u-a99/), it is a SUNON model number [MF50151VX-B00U-A99](https://www.tme.eu/en/Document/b30ea71fee61d11101012e50df6ac0ad/MF50151VX-A99-DTE.pdf) and it is a blower type. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rGueR.jpg) When the head is moving in the X-axis it makes noise. I think this type of fans is not suitable for rapid movement and rapid changes in directions. I think the noise is coming from the axial of the fan because I think there is a clearance in the axial for moving up and down. When I put my finger on the fan body(the rotating part) the noise stop! **My question, What type of fans suitable for rapid movement and rapid direction change? and if this is not the problem what is the problem in my situation?** I have tried searching but I can really find a direct answer!<issue_comment>username_1: As discussed in the comments... The problem with the fan seems to be its flimsy attachment to the printer head. The fact the fan chassis is not firmly kept in place allows for it to act as a soundboard, amplyfing whatever vibration nomally occurs in the motor. You could probably get a fan that is more silent in the first place ([noctua](https://noctua.at/en/products/fan) is a known brand for silent fans, and it is used on the Original Prusa MK3 for example), but since there's nothing inherently wrong with your current fan, I would simply design a custom, more beefy mount for it. For added dampening effect you could also use small o-rings as washers for the screws. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: In response to Answer from MAC above. The Sunon Maglev Fan is actually an exceptional fan that is superior in all aspects from static pressure, CFM, Decibels... far superior to that of a radial fan like a Noctua. <http://www.sunon.com/index2/uFiles/file/03_products/08-catalog%20download/Sunon%20DC%20Brushless%20Fan%20&%20Blower_(240-A).pdf> The noise probably comes from the way it’s been attached. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: MagLev fans with Vapo bearing are (like the name suggests) magnetic levitation bearings - the rotor "floats" in the air, it's not press-fot like in ball bearings, therefore it has movement in perpendicular to the axis. MagLev fans are great at low acceleration and low jerk (or in stationary applications) but their bearings will bang on sudden movement changes. Just take a MagLev (with Vapo bearing - VX, V1, V2..), there actually are Dual Ball Bearing versions of MagLev fans (BX, B1, B2..) which are way better suited in moving applications. Upvotes: 2

2018/03/12

<issue_start>username_0: About two days ago, I started seeing that my hotend was heating up erratically. I first noticed this while printing a part in PETG and the temp jumped to 260 °C. I shut down the printer at that time and first started checking the hardware. I noticed that the E3D V6 thermistor had been tightened too much. I disassembled the entire hotend, cleaned everything and then reassembled everything. I thought to retune the hotend and when I tried tuning it at 240 °C. This is where the strange behavior occurs. The hotend steadily climbed up till about 200 °C. After that it just went nuts. I started seeing unreal temps such as 646 °C and such. At this point I thought the MEGA might be at fault. I replaced it and the hotend (an E3D V6 clone). This had the screw on glass thermistor. Again the same erratic behavior and unreal temp readings. What could be wrong here? What am I missing? Can this be the heater cartridge?<issue_comment>username_1: This can come from several sources: Hardware ======== The thermistor or its connections might be damaged, and the fault is only observable when the hotend is hot or moved to a certain area. Start by checking the wiring! You may be able to repair a bad connection easily, but depending what was broken, you may need to replace something. In some cases squishing a thermistor cartridge too much can destroy the internals, so a replacement is needed. A mainboard failure is more likely to just show a static temperature, and a heater failure would show as maybe not getting past a certain point. Firmware ======== If it had not worked before or you changed the firmware, the firmware should also be a suspect. The firmware can 'fail' when using the wrong thermistor type/table which can result in a very big offset or bad slope, resulting in wrong or unaccurate readings. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: One of the thermistor wires had come loose from the crimp ferrules. I re-crimped it and it works fine now. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2018/03/12

<issue_start>username_0: I'm about to build a [Prusa i3 dolly](https://toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/). I am confused whether to use RAMPS 1.4 or 1.5 or 1.6. What is the big difference? Is it only the MOSFETs and the poly-fuses? If that is the case, would it be advisable to upgrade a RAMPS 1.4 board (replacing the MOSFETs, connectors, and fuses)?<issue_comment>username_1: This can come from several sources: Hardware ======== The thermistor or its connections might be damaged, and the fault is only observable when the hotend is hot or moved to a certain area. Start by checking the wiring! You may be able to repair a bad connection easily, but depending what was broken, you may need to replace something. In some cases squishing a thermistor cartridge too much can destroy the internals, so a replacement is needed. A mainboard failure is more likely to just show a static temperature, and a heater failure would show as maybe not getting past a certain point. Firmware ======== If it had not worked before or you changed the firmware, the firmware should also be a suspect. The firmware can 'fail' when using the wrong thermistor type/table which can result in a very big offset or bad slope, resulting in wrong or unaccurate readings. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: One of the thermistor wires had come loose from the crimp ferrules. I re-crimped it and it works fine now. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2018/03/12

<issue_start>username_0: So like I sayed in the title, Why can't the Anet A6 do .05 layer height? I found that some printers can do .05 layer heights, but the Anet A6 can't? I am interested to know if it is the stepper motors or the threaded rods or something. Maybe this is something I can do a small "test print" on?<issue_comment>username_1: I'm not familiar with the Anet A6 specifically, but as many other things in a 3D printer, the minimum layer height is co-determined by a number of factors. For the Z-axis the factors I am aware of are: * The number of steps in the stepper motor * The geometry of the lead screw * The tolerance with which the lead screw has been username_1hined * The microstep settings * The quality of the stepper drivers * The amount of play and flexibility of the X-axis gantry * The ration between filament and nozzle diameter * The precision of the extruder's stepper motor * ... Many printers that claim to have ridiculously low minimum Z-layer height do so by relying on the mathematical model only. It goes something like this: the lead screw has an offset of 1mm per revolution, the stepper motor makes 200 steps and is set for 32 microsteps per step so the minimum resolution should be... ``` 1mm / (200 * 32) = 0.0002mm ``` The reality is however different. For example: the lead screw may have been username_1hined with a tolerance of 0.002mm, so to make sure a layer has a thickness >0mm its heigh should be >0.004mm (20 times the theoretical limit computed with the microsteps). But to make sure layers have the same height ±10% you would need to increase the minimum layer heigh of an order of magnitude, bringing it to 0.04mm. A similar reasoning applies for the amount of play in the gantry, while the ratio between filament and nozzle influences the minimum volume of plastic that can be extruded per step (for very thin layers you want to be able to extrude a minimal amount of it). At the end of the day **this is a typical case of "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link"**: the minimum layer height of a printer is affected much more dramatically by the limitations of the most imprecise component in the printer than by the performance of its best one. As for your question about breaking the printer by issuing g-code with very thin layers: should you issue gcode that requires layers below that limit, the firmware will simply print at the same z-height (see comments, credits to Tom). I'm unaware of people having permanently damaged their username_1hines by issuing code with too thin Z-layers. But given how the firmware operates, I'd expect the quality of the print to be negatively affected, the filament to be possibly chewed by the cobbed wheel and in extreme cases cloggig of the printer head. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Your question is based on an incorrect premise. Just because the specifications list "minimum layer height: 0.1mm" does not mean the printer is unable to print thinner layers. It just means that the manufacturer is willing to guarantee that printing 0.1mm layers is possible, or that - for whatever reason - the marketing department decided to list 0.1mm in that table. 0.1mm is a nice, round number and seems to be the "gold standard" for 3D printers, but rarely is 0.1mm a limit that is inherent in the printer design. The theoretical precision of the Z-axis is usually at least an order of magnitude better than the advertised minimum layer height. Of course, the precision of the Z-axis is not the only limiting factor (at a certain point, you need to extrude so slowly that you start to be limited by the resolution of the extruder stepper), but often even impractically thin layers print just fine. In many cases, printers are capable of printing layers far thinner than the manufacturers officially advertise. More often than not, minimum layer height is limited by your patience and the fact that doing a print with thinner layer heights takes much longer for a rather limited gain in quality. Just give it a try and try to print 0.05mm layers, and you might be pleasantly surprised by the results! (Note: it is advisable to choose a layer height that is a multiple of the distance for a single (full) step of the Z-stepper. For my printer (which has a very coarse leadscrew on the Z-axis), this is 0.02mm so - for me - it would be better to print with 0.06mm or 0.04mm layers than with 0.05mm layers). Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I have an Anet A6 and once you get your settings dialled in, bed level accurate and belt tensioner correct you can do 0.05 mm very well (although I for some reason went with 0.06 mm and never tried the extra 0.01 mm lower but it shouldn't have an issue). Note: I did this using all the stock parts so 0.4 mm brass nozzle. I highly recommend you print and install a front Y axis frame brace and a Y axis belt tensioning mod as well as an X axis belt tensioner. It will allow you to print at these layer heights much more accurately if you can adjust the tension correctly. The kit out of the box makes it almost impossible to get good/correct tension on the belts. Upvotes: 1

2018/03/15

<issue_start>username_0: We have a Prusa i3 MK2 and we've changed for a print with another colour material but when I pressed "load filament", it didn't make anything. Often after five times doing that the printer works. I don't have any pictures but the filament is in the hole and the printer holds it. However, it doesn't push it into the extruder and the remains of the old filament do not come out, so I wonder why the motors just stop and don't work. Sometimes there are no problems - sometimes more and sometimes less. I hope someone has the reason for this problem.<issue_comment>username_1: First make sure that the hotend is hot enough. Second you need to check your extruder if it is clean. Third try to push the filament by hand and look if it comes out. If yes than the problem should be in the motor. The motor connection wire could be loose. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: My 0.02c: 1. Cut the tip of the new filament at an angle so that it is pointed enough. This will ensure that it easily enters the hole leading into the hot end beneath the extruder drive gear. A lot of times the curl in the filament (from being wound on a spool) will cause misalignment and lead to it not entering this hole properly. 2. Check filament debris lodged in the extruder gear teeth. Sometimes this will prevent good grip on the filament. 3. Finally you can try increasing the nozzle temperature. Often times any residue inside the nozzle will be cleared by elevating temperature and pushing in new filament. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I would agree with username_2, cutting the filament tip at a 45% angle before inserting might help. If the new material has required a different temperature to the previous, then you could have burnt the old material clogging the nozzle (take nozzle off by unscrewing, if it a brass hex nozzle) - if the new material requires a lower temperature, then it will not melt the materiel old pushing it out. See if you can go into Move Axis (manually) and then go to 0.01 mm then Extrude and see if that works. If you hear a slipping or backlash sound coming from the extruder stepper motor, look at motor gear and check for clogging. *Please check the heat requirements of the new and old materials* Upvotes: 0

2018/03/17

<issue_start>username_0: I bought a new printer, and unfortunately the left nut for the lead screw isn't tapped. Does anyone know the thread size, w.r.t. both pitch and lead, of the lead screws?<issue_comment>username_1: I don't own the printer, but the [intertubes](https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32827343801.html) identify it as a "TR8X8 T" (8mm diameter / 8mm offset per revolution). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I have the Anet A8, I confirm the threads are Tr8x8(p2). This is explained as "Tr" for trapezoidal thread followed by the nominal diameter in mm. The digits after the "x" denotes the lead of the screw (how much does the nut advance per revolution). The value between the brackets "p2" denotes the pitch. This means that the screw has 8 (lead) / 2 (pitch) = 4 starts. More information on threads is found [on Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trapezoidal_thread_form). Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: The pitch no matter the screw is the distance between the threads. The lead can be different based on a one or two start threads. Upvotes: 0

2018/03/17

<issue_start>username_0: I am attempting to print the Benchy boat but every attempt so far has been unsuccessful. The print has a sort of slope/blob on the nose of the boat, which emerges after the first 30 layers. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vx2cM.jpg) Here you can see the front of the boat already arching up: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/q9Z6A.jpg) I have tried decreasing speed to 40 mm/s but the issue remains. **Printer**: Geetech Prusa I3 Pro B XY Accelleration: 1000 mm/s2 XY Jerk: 20 mm/s Retraction Accelleration: 2000 mm/s2 Extruder Jerk: 5 mm/s Printing Speed: 50 mm/s Travel Speed: 120 mm/s Layer Height: 0.1 mm Infill: 60% (Lines) Material: PLA, 200 °C, 1.75mm filament, retraction enabled.<issue_comment>username_1: The lines along the length of the boat also appear to be wobbling, can you confirm this? Have you used this material before? The layers should look straight and equal. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PvV5g.png) I have 2 candidates: If the lines indeed wobble it may be over extrusion. The excess material pushing the extruded line over the edge. (check the diameter of the filament with a caliper and adjust the extrusion rate if needed) Or it can be shrinking. 60% infill is quite high. You could try 20 or 30% (less material and more air => less distortion), or adjusting cooling. Hope it helps, good luck! Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Looks like curling from to much being extruded and no cooling I had the same problem added part cooling and problem was gone Upvotes: 2

2018/03/18

<issue_start>username_0: I just finish building a Graber i3 printer from mixed parts (a MDF clone of Prusa i3 MK2). For the hotend, I've bought the Greetech MK8 extruder. However, the temperature sensor is driving me up the wall. I've already checked the wires and connections, but the darn thing keeps showing a steady 500 degrees Celsius. In Marlin, it shows it right up (I'm using the 1st option for a 100k thermistor), in Repetier Firmware (using the same one), it shows 0.00°C, until I tell the printer to heat up, when it shoots to 500°C just like before with Marlin. The documentation for this extruder only lists it as a "100K NTC Thermistor", so I tried to select one of the NTC options on the list for both Marlin and Repetier and the temp sensor reads steady 3.600°C!!! Measuring it with the multimeter, it shows around 60k, it's 31°C outside. Is it broken or am I selecting the wrong thermistor type? [Documentation for MK8](http://www.geeetech.com/assembled-mk8-extruder-p-857.html)<issue_comment>username_1: A brand new thermistor shows about 95-105k ohm (depends on the multimeter quality), so it looks like that one is out of the range. To be sure that it is a thermistor, you could connect a 100k potentiometer, play with it and see readings on the lcd. If the readings are OK, then mainboard is good so replace the thermistor. [A 100k thermistor curve](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/a/36420/26303) Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If your printer is a cheap one that uses a ribbon cable or other combined cables, verify your thermal sensor's polarity. I know, I know - it's a resistor (in most cases) and that means there's no such thing as polarity. Bear with me - I just helped a friend diagnose his printer (Geeetech, for the record) for showing 500C on one sensor and 'def' on the other, after replacing the mainboard with a different/more capable model. Turns out, they SHARE PINS, which suddenly makes polarity important. Swap the pins in the connector, and it might just work. First time I've run into this. We swapped only the Ext0 sensor and left the bed disconnected - Ext0 read normal, so we swapped both, and everything's been perfect since. Upvotes: 0

2018/03/21

<issue_start>username_0: I am building a [dolly](https://andypi.co.uk/2017/09/17/dolly-build-notes-prusa-i3-mk2-clone-3d-printer/) and I am confused as to which proximity sensor to use. Should I go for M8 or M12 and 5 V or 6-36 V? What should be the best detecting distance? Should it be 2/4/8 mm. Which one should I select?<issue_comment>username_1: <NAME> has produced a nice video on this topic: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY> @ 7:31 you see an overview of the precision of various sensors, including the ones you mention. It appears that the M12-4 and M18-8 sensors are more accurate than the M8-8. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As always cost will be a factor. I found the M4 sensors to be be just not good enough, they have to be too close, and eventually it's going to catch on your print and damage sensor mounting and/or the hot-end assembly. The 8mm range sensors seem like a good distance, but you'll need to decide between a wider, heavier but cheaper model or the think, lighter more expensive model. If your goal is to optimise for speed, go the lighter version. In terms of sensing accuracy, if your layer height is typically 0.2mm then I don't think there's much point paying for more accuracy. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Duet3D has a very nice [overview](https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_a_Z_probe). It totally depends on your demands. e.g., accuracy, different build surfaces, tolerance. Personly I realy like the [piezo](https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/shop). It actually uses your nozzle to 'touch' the bed. So 0 height is absoluty 0. This eliminates the need for Z-offset. Upvotes: 1

2018/03/21

<issue_start>username_0: I re-read my question and realized I made a confusing one, so I am rewording a LOT. So the software I use is Craftware. When it comes to the first layer I have it set to .25mm, with the following layers being whatever I specify otherwise. And because of this there shouldn't be a difference with the first layer even though I choose different layer heights based on the project. But for some reason it is not the case. When printing .2mm layer height everything works great. The print adheres amazing, the nozzle is at a really good height. Everything simply works. When printing .1mm the first layer does not stick. A lot less plastic is coming out the nozzle. And it is a disaster. Have tried increasing the amount of flow a bit, but didn't help (I might need to raise it a lot more) So I don't understand what is going wrong. The first layer is supposed to be set at .25mm no matter what the layer height is otherwise. What do I need to do or look at?<issue_comment>username_1: You have asked several questions here. "why is first layer set to 0.25" -- check the gcode file, opening it in a text editor, to see what layer values are specified. "looks like under-extrude" -- please show a picture. If it's purely that the print failing to adhere, you may need to adjust the Z-zero point slightly. Or perhaps When you printed at 0.2mm, for whatever reason the transverse stress on the base layer is less than when printing at 0.1 mm (e.g., linear speed adjustments needed). Is the second layer somehow not adhering to the first layer? It is possible that the linear speed setting for the first layer is too high and that should be adjusted. Or perhaps the z-height for the second layer is inconsistent with a 0.1mm layer setting, so check the gcode there too. In general, adherence problems can be dealt with by adding a raft or brim. See if that suffices. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You likely need to re-calibrate the Z-height of your nozzle. The reason that a lot less plastic is coming out of the nozzle at 0.1mm is that the actual gap is likely smaller than 0.1mm. This makes the print bed act essentially like a partial "lid" on the nozzle which occludes the outflow of molten plastic. Simplify3D has information on their website regarding the issue which can be found here: <https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#not-extruding-at-start-of-print>. Hope this helps! Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Assuming you are using a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.1 layers are very close to the edge of what you can do. As @username_2 said, a Z adjustment will probably help. My process for this: * If you have a heated bed, preheat before levelling. * set a large brim on the print, slow-ish first level (about 40mm/s) * start with the bed levelled normally, and start the print * wait for plastic to be extruding, then adjust the bed until it starts bonding This does require adjusting the bed with the print in progress, so make sure you are safe and don't get your fingers in anything hot or otherwise dangerous. Upvotes: 2

2018/03/21

<issue_start>username_0: Harking back to the days of "singing disk drives," I am wondering if anyone's written music to be performed on a 3D printer. Most of us have noticed in passing that the servo motors for X and Y drive generate a different pitch depending on motion speed. With some care and experimentation, one could write g-code to produce not only a tone but even a 2-tone chord. So -- has this been done? Does anyone want to do so? (Note that there's no need to simultaneously produce a print, but that would be even classier).<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, it has been done before, see [here](https://github.com/forflo/gCodeMusic) and [here.](https://github.com/yeokm1/midi-to-simple-metal-gcode) The README file of the first repository linked above contains a detailed explanation of the basic idea/calculations involved. A short excerpt: > > As you can set the parameters of G1 in such a way as to precisely control the velocity and the distance of a movement along a certain axis, you can control the operation frequency of the stepper motors as well as the actual time to complete a movement. > > > On another note (pun intended), you can also play music by using the code [`M300`](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M300:_Play_beep_sound). Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I actually did this, on my Malyan M150. After not that much experimentation at all it turned out that the frequency of the produced tone scales linearly with the speed of the motors. Due to the nature of the way humans perceive music, the actual frequencies do not matter at all, just the relative difference in frequency between the tones. This means that it is actually really easy to let a 3D printer play a tune, you just have to make sure that when the next tone needs to have a frequency that is for example 20% higher than the last one, the motor needs to move 20% faster, no need to actually measure at which speeds the printer produces which tones. One of the main issues turned out to be the maximum speed of the motors, which wasn't high enough for some of the higher notes, but this issue could be solved by multiplying all the speeds by a number lower than 1, thereby lowering the required speeds while still maintaining the original melody. Playing two tones at the same time proved to be a bit too difficult for my not that great programming skills, while not being worth the effort because somehow there was quite a large difference in volume between the motors. In the end, I made a MATLAB script that converts MIDI files to G-code with the following result: [3D-printer playing popcorn song](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPV-TolORK4) Upvotes: 3

2018/03/21

<issue_start>username_0: I'm new at 3D Printing. I made a model of what I want to print using blender, but it's really small with a little system that must be very precise to work. What I have is like a hollow cylinder with a diameter of 11mm, and a thickness of 1mm. This goes inside a counter part, that is carve with the cylinder shape, but with a little extra gap so it can rotate like an axis. Maybe this picture explains better: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/trZRu.png) And this should be the front view of the counter part: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XaNBg.png) So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis. And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly? If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too? What hardware and material should I use to do this? Thanks in advance. Sorry for bad english, I hope you understand! **EDIT:** [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uD2N1.png) (6mm is the depth of the hole)<issue_comment>username_1: It is considered good practice to limit your post to one question at a time. The question about hardware and material is too broad to be a good question and I will set that aside. Equally unfortunate, your drawing is ambiguous. I suppose if English is not your native language, I'm not helping things either. The drawing has some errors that make it challenging to be certain of a correct answer, but I can provide you with some useful information as a direct result of a test print created today. The test print for my printer creates a series of spool shapes within retainer shapes. More complex than a simply cylinder making the test that much more difficult. My printer is able to print without problem parts that are 1.0 mm apart, 0.8 mm apart and 0.6 mm apart. The test failed at the 0.4 mm spacing and the 0.3 mm spacing, telling me that I need to perform some tuning. Your question asks about 0.05 mm spacing. I think you will not find an FDM printer that will manage such separation without bonding together the individual components. FDM printers use filament. You may also not find that an SLA or DLP printer can provide such tight tolerances. It is the most likely source of a success, however. I have only minimal exposure to tolerance in this type of printer. SLA/DLP printers use lasers/light and liquid resin. They can accomplish 0.05 mm layer thickness, even as small as 0.025 mm layers, but I do not know the figures for horizontal precision/accuracy/tolerance. SLS printers use a nylon powder and a laser to fuse the powder together to form the model. My SLS printer uses 0.050 mm powder. To accomplish the separation you require would mean a single layer of powder will separate the individual segments of the model. This is not practical for this type of printer. Your best bet would be to consult with a 3D printing service that uses SLA printers. SLA is likely to be more precise than DLP due to the method of exposing the resin, although that is not a universal truth. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It is definitively possible to do what you want, but your questions are samewhat problematic: > > So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis. > > > "hard enough" is a mysterious quantity. What is the intended application? The load of the axis, the rotation speed, the medium in which the part will be in, its operating temperature... they all affect the answer. > > And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly? > > > Reading at the question and the comments, I think you may have the wrong representation model in your mind. There are four different concepts at work here: * *Accuracy* is the maximum dimensional variation between parts. * *Tolerance* is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension. * *Allowance* is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value. * *Clearance* is the intentional space between two parts. So: what you want to achieve for the object to rotate is to have at least some *clearance* once you have the parts printed. Therefore, you want to design your part with an *allowance* which is at least as much as the *accuracy*. Note that a username_2hine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy. So you must design your part with a *tolerance* equal or greater than your printer *accuracy*. The correct number will therefore be entirely dependant from the specific printer you will be using. You can find out the specific *accuracy* of a printer by printing a [tolerance test](https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Tolerance%20test&sa=&dwh=815ab32c4d0733c) (I know, I know... why isn't it called "accuracy test"?) See this [unrelated answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5187/9134) - from wich I took the above definitions - for learning more about the above and a concrete example. > > If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too? > > > I hope it is now clear why this question makes no sense: *clearance* is a variable which depends from *accuracy* (and the application), not the other way around. > > I can't add so much gap because I have really limited space > > > This comment too is incorrect: the "gap" (clearance) can be very very small. You have to have the correct *allowance* in your design, and allowance will *not* intrinsically make a part larger. > > What hardware and material should I use to do this? > > > Again: this is entirely dependent from your application (load, operating temperature, orientation, speed...) A consumer-grade FDM printer (easy accessible, cheap and cheap to operate) will allow you to print a rotating part, a SLA/DLP printer (less common, toxic resins, more expensive to operate) will allow to print the same part with different materials and tighter tolerances... > > I don't worry about breaking, but it cannot be flexible > > > Again: without an explanaton of the intended use (or the numbers associated to it) it's impossible to answer this comment conclusively. Resins tend to harden to more rigid solids, but you have thrown around tolerances as small as 0.05mm in your writing, and over 12mm of axis, that is a deviation of less than 0.5% from "perfectly straight". I'm hard pressed to think you will find a printable material with such a rigidity. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2018/03/22

<issue_start>username_0: I've built and done some simple tests on a TEVO Tarantula but I've noticed some pretty dramatic under extrusions. My equipment: * TEVO Tarantula; * <NAME>'s easy config fork of Marlin; * Titan extruder (came with printer). I've updated the firmware with the 400 steps as advised and calibrated the extrusion with the 100 mm method: * When I run the calibration with the Titan extruder, *only* the 400 steps is fine and works as expected; * When I connect the Bowden tube to the hotend and calibrate (at 200, 225 and 250°C), I see only ~50 mm of extrusion. I've disassemble the hot end, changed filament and I can't see any signs of blockage. The Bowden tube in the hotend is not showing any signs of melting etc. and it is pushed all the way down to the hotend, as per the instructions. So, what's going with this?<issue_comment>username_1: It is considered good practice to limit your post to one question at a time. The question about hardware and material is too broad to be a good question and I will set that aside. Equally unfortunate, your drawing is ambiguous. I suppose if English is not your native language, I'm not helping things either. The drawing has some errors that make it challenging to be certain of a correct answer, but I can provide you with some useful information as a direct result of a test print created today. The test print for my printer creates a series of spool shapes within retainer shapes. More complex than a simply cylinder making the test that much more difficult. My printer is able to print without problem parts that are 1.0 mm apart, 0.8 mm apart and 0.6 mm apart. The test failed at the 0.4 mm spacing and the 0.3 mm spacing, telling me that I need to perform some tuning. Your question asks about 0.05 mm spacing. I think you will not find an FDM printer that will manage such separation without bonding together the individual components. FDM printers use filament. You may also not find that an SLA or DLP printer can provide such tight tolerances. It is the most likely source of a success, however. I have only minimal exposure to tolerance in this type of printer. SLA/DLP printers use lasers/light and liquid resin. They can accomplish 0.05 mm layer thickness, even as small as 0.025 mm layers, but I do not know the figures for horizontal precision/accuracy/tolerance. SLS printers use a nylon powder and a laser to fuse the powder together to form the model. My SLS printer uses 0.050 mm powder. To accomplish the separation you require would mean a single layer of powder will separate the individual segments of the model. This is not practical for this type of printer. Your best bet would be to consult with a 3D printing service that uses SLA printers. SLA is likely to be more precise than DLP due to the method of exposing the resin, although that is not a universal truth. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It is definitively possible to do what you want, but your questions are samewhat problematic: > > So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis. > > > "hard enough" is a mysterious quantity. What is the intended application? The load of the axis, the rotation speed, the medium in which the part will be in, its operating temperature... they all affect the answer. > > And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly? > > > Reading at the question and the comments, I think you may have the wrong representation model in your mind. There are four different concepts at work here: * *Accuracy* is the maximum dimensional variation between parts. * *Tolerance* is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension. * *Allowance* is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value. * *Clearance* is the intentional space between two parts. So: what you want to achieve for the object to rotate is to have at least some *clearance* once you have the parts printed. Therefore, you want to design your part with an *allowance* which is at least as much as the *accuracy*. Note that a username_2hine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy. So you must design your part with a *tolerance* equal or greater than your printer *accuracy*. The correct number will therefore be entirely dependant from the specific printer you will be using. You can find out the specific *accuracy* of a printer by printing a [tolerance test](https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=Tolerance%20test&sa=&dwh=815ab32c4d0733c) (I know, I know... why isn't it called "accuracy test"?) See this [unrelated answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5187/9134) - from wich I took the above definitions - for learning more about the above and a concrete example. > > If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too? > > > I hope it is now clear why this question makes no sense: *clearance* is a variable which depends from *accuracy* (and the application), not the other way around. > > I can't add so much gap because I have really limited space > > > This comment too is incorrect: the "gap" (clearance) can be very very small. You have to have the correct *allowance* in your design, and allowance will *not* intrinsically make a part larger. > > What hardware and material should I use to do this? > > > Again: this is entirely dependent from your application (load, operating temperature, orientation, speed...) A consumer-grade FDM printer (easy accessible, cheap and cheap to operate) will allow you to print a rotating part, a SLA/DLP printer (less common, toxic resins, more expensive to operate) will allow to print the same part with different materials and tighter tolerances... > > I don't worry about breaking, but it cannot be flexible > > > Again: without an explanaton of the intended use (or the numbers associated to it) it's impossible to answer this comment conclusively. Resins tend to harden to more rigid solids, but you have thrown around tolerances as small as 0.05mm in your writing, and over 12mm of axis, that is a deviation of less than 0.5% from "perfectly straight". I'm hard pressed to think you will find a printable material with such a rigidity. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2018/03/23

<issue_start>username_0: Is there any commonly printed plastic which I can buy that might be transparent to UV light? I wish to print a mould, then pour in my plastic which requires a UV light to activate the curing process.<issue_comment>username_1: This is more of a Chemistry question, but seeing as we love 3D printing with exotics, here are a few. [Topas](https://topas.com/uv-transmission?gclid=Cj0KCQjwy9LVBRDOARIsAGqoVnuAAAiwiHetZN76JqaRFnq7KKy6br9e6MLDQA4Zlrt01Ceh8GfQrzIaAu7xEALw_wcB) olefin copolymer From the mfr description page, > > TOPAS cyclic olefin copolymer, or COC, is an incredibly pure polymer - > in fact, it's purer than most grades of medical glass. Unlike glass, > it has a non-ionic, inert surface to minimize reactivity, > denaturation, agglomeration, delamination and other traditional glass > concerns. And when it comes to maintaining purity, TOPAS medical grade > plastics can be sterilized via all common methods. Leachables and > extractables are extremely low. Reduce risk and increase performance > by maintaining the benign, protective environment that TOPAS COC-based > devices provide. > > > Medical grades of TOPAS COC are extremely clear, and are optically > suitable for replacing glass in many applications. > > > I'm not sure of its melting point, or of the speed of solidification (which affects extruder rate, motion etc). Recommended at [this Chem.SE question](https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/63912/uv-transparent-plastic), PMMA and others edit ---- Because answers there have links of their own, I"m not repeating the various technical leads available there. Now you will have to investigate their melting points and flow rates, etc. to see if these can be coerced to function in an extrusion printer. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: It is easy enough to test materials. First, get a UV flashlight or laser, and find some object that the UV light will make glow. White paper or white cloth will probably work. Next, for a material you wish to test, print a "transparent" wall as think as you need. Shine the light through the transparent wall. If the wall glows, it is interacting so heavily with the UV light that it probably won't transmit UV light. The light will probably be scattered, since "transparent" material is rarely glasslike when printed. If the test object you found in the first step still glows, the wall is transparent enough. If it doesn't, try the next material. There are transparent forms of PLA, ABS, PETG, HIPS, and nylon. Probably other materials, too. Try them. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Have you tried printing with Form labs clear resin ? ( This is assuming you have access to a desktop SLA like the Form2+ or Form 1 ) The printed part itself gets hardened after exposure to uv light and actually can increase the life time of your mould . I have been using the Form labs Form 2+ a lot recently for small moulds and casting them with Polyurethane . They work amazing and the precision of the mould is high due to 0.05mm layer resolution that is achievable . Once hardened the UV light easily passes through it and does not degrade the part at all . Here is the material data sheet <https://formlabs.com/media/upload/Clear-DataSheet.pdf> You can easily get a clear resin print done through a local 3D printing service bureau that you can find using 3D hubs . Prices for printing on a formlabs are comparable to FDM 3D printing , it really just depends on your supplier . **If the above doesn't cut it then ,** Use DSM Somos® WaterClear Ultra 10122 , please check below link and corresponding data sheet for technical specifications . <https://www.dsm.com/products/somos/en_US/products/offerings-somos-water-clear.html> This can only be printed on a 3Ds systems viper , Envision tech preform series or other industrial 3D printers . Again you can head to 3D hubs or call up the closest industrial 3D printing service bureau and ask them for the above material . They should be able to hook you up easily . Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]

2018/03/24

<issue_start>username_0: Whenever it start printing the extruder starts clicking, I tried adjusting the voltage with no luck, it's still clicking. And it doesn't extrude a lot of plastic sometimes it even stops extruding but the extruder is still turning. Can someone help?<issue_comment>username_1: The clicking you are hearing is either the stepper motor skipping steps or the hobbed gear losing grip on the filament. Either way, it means that the filament opposes an unusually high resistence to be pushed forward. A key information to be able to diagnose your problem is whether the clicking is on the firsts couple of layers or throughout the print. **If it is only for the first 1-3 layers the problem is likely to be the printing bed too high** (or deformed), so that the nozzle touches it and the bed acts a "lid" on the nozzle preventing the molten plastic to get out. If this is the case, adjust the printing bed to be flat and level (and the nozzle at the right height when homed on the Z axis. **If the problem persists throughout the full print** the problem is likely to be related to one of the following: * **the extruder not managing to get a firm grip** on the filament (worn teeth, slack spring, ...) * **the stepper motor being underpowered** (this seems not to be your case, given that you have already adjusted the voltage) * **a clog, adhesion, or restriction in either the bowden tube or the extruder**, for which the best solution is disassemble, inspect and clean (eventually changing the bowden tube if it has been deformed). Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I have the TronXY X1, which uses the same extruder and firmware design as the TronXY X5. The clicking does not come from Voltage, but most likely a wrong set up of steps/mm or a lightly clogged nozzle. Quick and dirty steps/mm ======================== * Start a print that you know clicks. * wait for the clicking starts (it comes from the extruder pushing against resistance and jumping back a step) * Go into `Configuration > Extruder > Steps/MM` * alter it down a little, listen if the constant clickig stops, alter again if needed. Now, you need to make sure not to get into underextrusion doing this "on the go" fixing, and you really should calibrate your extruder. Proper calibration ================== To calibrate your extruder, you could follow Thomas "Tom" Sanladerer [calibration video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y) or this rundown: * Move the printhead to a position where it can extrude freely. * heat up your hotend * load the filament (or have one loaded) * take a filament spool and make small marks on it an increment from the extruder's intake - for example with a CD marker. Tom uses 100mm (**Ep** for Extruded planned) for the calibration and adds 50mm to compensate for overextrusion, so places the mark at 150mm (**L** for length), allowing to calculate a compensation into both directions. * extrude 100mm of filament - it is advisable to directly send the G-code via a program here to use `G92E0` to 0 the extruder and `G1E100F90` for the extrusion * Measure the distance of your line to the extruder. Let's call this value **R**, for "Result position" * Now, we calculate Et (extruded truely): **L-R=Et** Now, we have a length to compensate for. But what value we adjust? Steps/mm of course! * Either go into `Configuration > Extruder > Steps/MM` or send `M503` to get the steps/mm from the configuration * lets call this value **S** for Steps/mm Now, let's calculate the Sa, "Steps/mm adjusted": \* **S\*Ep/Et=Sa** Now, let's get it into the username_1hine! \* Go into `Configuration > Extruder > Steps/MM` and adjust manually \* make sure to save into EEPROM \* alternatively, send `M92E`**Sa** , replacing Sa with your calculated value \* Then, send `M500` to store the value in the EEPROM \* third alternative: change the firmware configuration and reupload. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I also have this problem with the X5S, and it's not just on the first layer (which is sometimes finicky depending on the levelling). I've narrowed it down to a few things, and I've also noticed that it varies based on the print. Possible Causes (and a suggested solution for each): * Bad quality hotend assembly: My X5S has a teflon-lined hotend, and besides that I don't like the rather small heatsink, mine came such that the bowden tube acts as the teflon lining, ie the lining and the bowden tube are the same piece. Already not a great design, but the implementation is slightly worrying. I'd recommend switching the hotend for a genuine E3D, I myself am planning on getting a Cyclops+ Aqua, which will be sure to resolve any existing issues. * Bowden tube is iffy: I'm not sure about this one, but I've noticed quite a bit of resistance in the bowden tube while loading filaments. I think this is causing excessive force on the Extruder motor (which I've noticed heats up quite a bit more than the other motors, to the point where I've added a heatsink to avoid possible damage). My solution is to swap the teflon for the blue Capricorn tubing from Trianglelabs. * Extruder setup isn't that great: As I mentioned before, the extruder motor tends to heat up a bit, and I just don't like the implementation of the extruder gears. I'd recommend switching this setup for a different one, if possible. * Print temperature and speed: I've noted that when I increase the temperature and decrease the speed of prints, the clicking reduces in frequency, but it does still occasionally click and my prints turn out horribly. This might be pointing to an issue with either extruder calibration or the flow rate during a print, as mentioned by other people here. Cheers! Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I have an X5S and quite frankly, I never got it print properly because of these persistent issues. Thank you for the most excellent comments and suggestions. Lots to investigate. I added an anycubic glass table but that takes longer to heat up. But i am unable to get adhesion on the first layers and the clicking kicks in shortly thereafter. I wonder if this thermal latency might imply a colder bed on first layers. I have tweaked the leveling so many times it is not funny. This is pointing to friction in the Bowden delivery system and the extruder itself. I got an E3D that I must adapt. Too bad i cannot print those parts! I have noted also a great variety of results from different printer filaments brands as well. Upvotes: 0

2018/03/26

<issue_start>username_0: It's my first time printing in vase mode, and I noticed my printer underextruding badly. The settings have not been changed from default vase mode settings in slicer, and earlier I was printing non-vase mode and the prints came out fine. Layer height is 0.2 mm and perimeter width is 0.3 mm. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rXiKt.jpg "Under extrusion #1") [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCy5X.jpg "Under extrusion #2")<issue_comment>username_1: Finding the cause of under-extrusion is very hard as a lot of parameters of the print process can influence this. There are some nice websites that describe these problems in detail. From your question it is unclear what you have done to solve the problem, or if you have printed products after the vase mode and shown us a picture of that (this eliminates a lot of possible problems). A nice overview is given by [Ultimaker](https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21477-how-to-fix-under-extrusion), but other sources may help you to find the root cause, e.g. [Simplify3D](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/). If the issue is related to the filament and hot-end, [Printrbot](https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-Unclogging-the-Hot-End-Using-the-Cold-Pull-Method), [Trideus](https://www.trideus.be/en/blogs/stories/tips-tricks-do-the-cold-pull) and [Rigid.ink](https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/under-extrusion-problems-or-clicking-sounds-heres-why-and-how-to-fix-it) may help you solve the problem. Important is to isolate your problem! Not knowing what printer you have, your printer has (or potentially has) the folowing modules/elements that may be causing the underextrusion: * the slicer (highly suspicious), * the material/filament and the spool holder (suspicious), * the extruder or feeder (suspicious), * the hot-end (suspicious), * the Bowden tube (suspicious if you have one). Note that to find the root cause you should tackle this by elimination, this way you make sure that certain modules are not causing the problem. Also keep in mind that the vase mode prints a single outline/perimeter shell and won't make any retracts (so the Z axis will continuously rise), in which defects are shown instantly. Please, take a close look at your normal multi perimeter print. How to fix under extrusion! =========================== Under extrusion is probably one of the hardest to find the direct cause as there are so many variables to consider. Please find below some of the variables that can affect your printing quality marked in bold face. * **Material and material settings** The material you use needs to be resembled correctly, so it is important and easiest thing to check first if your print is suffering from under-extrusion due to incorrect material settings. The material settings in your slicer (or the material profile on your printer for the more fancy printers) should match the material you are printing. So please check the **filament diameter** with a caliper and measure the diameter at various points; take the mean diameter of at least 3 to 5 measurements. Furthermore, **temperature** is also an important factor; **too low temperatures** will cause that the extruder has to push harder as the material is less viscous due to the fact it is not heated properly. Note that this can also happen if the flow of the filament is too high and the heater cannot keep up. It is these high pressures that cause the under extrusion as it may not flow fluidly. In contrast to too low temperatures, **too high temperatures**, can also cause problems. Very high temperatures can change the structure of the material, this is often referred to as carbonization causing **deposits** (clogs) in the nozzle. A word of advice, *Please check your filament spool/box (or sometimes a paper in the box or bag) for the proper temperatures*. Next to the temperature, other important material settings are the **print speed**, the **layer height** and the **nozzle size** as these properties further define the rate at which the **filament volume** is deposited. For instance, a **too high of a volume flow** not only can lead to the previously mentioned cooling of the nozzle, but also is limited by the diameter of the nozzle, you just cannot push more through the nozzle is capable of as the friction will increase (the smallest opening in the system determines the maximum rate of volume flow). If you do, this will lead to under-extrusion. To **find the optimum between speed and temperature**, a good balance between these needs to be found. A typical way to do that is by the use of printing calibration temperature towers, preferably at various speeds. To print faster, you need a higher temperature, but printing at lower temperatures because of overhangs, you might need to decrease the speed to get a proper extrusion (and maybe also part cooling). Don't just focus on the hot end part, also take a closer look at the filament spool itself, or better, how the spool unrolls. Is the **spool of filament unrolling correctly/freely** without a lot of friction (does it make **sharp bends**, or does it go **through a tube** having friction from its container to the extruder), or is the **filament not correctly wound causing tangled filament** (which create a lot of friction preventing enough material to be transported to the hot end) which could stress the extruder. For some materials that are hydrophilic (they attract water and trap it in the filament, this happens e.g. with PLA, PVA, Nylon and maybe even more) printing the **filament with contained water, the water will turn into steam causing bubbles** in the deposited filament and interfere with the flow deposition. This effect sometimes makes a distinct sound like popping bubbles. Always store your filament in a sealed container or bag and use desiccants bags. Moisture can cause damage to the printer as the **filament swells when taking up moisture**; this could lead to various jams. Last but not least, filament with moisture in it has less mechanical properties after printing than dry filament (up to 33% less). * **The extruder/feeder and Bowden tube** The extruder/feeder pushes or feeds material into the hot end, or into a tube (called Bowden tube). Under-extrusion caused by the extruder is typically characterized by the fact that filament is not properly fed to the hot end as a result of **too much friction in the tube or hot end**, **too less grip on the filament** or **filament grinding** (the extruder gear 'eating away' the filament). **Too much friction could even cause your stepper to tick or click**, basically turning back as the pressure on the filament exerts so much pressure that the stepper is rotated back; **increasing the feeder tension** on the filament (by **adjusting the screw on the extruder/feeder** would fix that). Grinding is easily spotted when removing the filament; it will clearly show that the gear has worn away circle shapes. Furthermore, **filament taken out of the printer should show visible marks on the material** as imprints of the extruder gear, **if completely smooth, the feeder tension is too less**. On the other hand, **too much tension on the feeder could flatten the filament, which leads the previously mentioned grinding effect**. If you encounter grinding, please assure that you **clean the extruder by removing the filament powder and chunks** the grinding produced and recheck the extruder/feeder tension before continuing printing again. Be sure that the **grinding particles have not entered the Bowden tube as it causes friction**. Cleaning them regularly or replacing them once a year is advisable depending on the usage (or once every x kilometers of filament). Furthermore, **larger diameter filament (2.85 or 3 mm) can cause additional friction (in the Bowden tube or the extruder/feeder) as towards the end of the spool**, the filament is wound tight along a small diameter spool center causing strongly bend filament that exerts pressure as it acts like a spring creating friction at the walls of the tubes. * **The hot-end** The hot end can also be a culprit for under-extrusion. **Partial blockage of the nozzle as a result of carbonization** (buildup of carbon or carbonized material in the nozzle). Even **left over material from previous prints inside the nozzle** (*unflushed residue*) may change the volume of the nozzle when the material you printed before needed a higher temperature than the current you're printing. Also try to get **good quality filament**, it might be that the **quality is just not constant for the whole spool**. Too clean the inside of the nozzle, a few techniques exist to remove blockage. By **performing a "cold pull" or using the `atomic method`**. Both techniques rely on the mechanism to insert the (cleaning) filament when it's hot and remove it quickly at a lower temperature. E.g. see [here](https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-Unclogging-the-Hot-End-Using-the-Cold-Pull-Method) or [here](https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/under-extrusion-problems-or-clicking-sounds-heres-why-and-how-to-fix-it). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_1: You are printing walls of 0.3 mm with a 0.4 mm nozzle (25% contraction). This might fall in the category of insufficient volume flow. The wall width is less than the nozzle diameter, so it needs to contract. Either way, the volume is too less and may be dragged along until it is flattened. You should increase the wall width, maybe even a little more than 0.4 mm (although that might not be necessary, see edit below). To support this, the next table shows the volume calculation for the filament (based on extruded cilinder shape), the first row is the volume you need to fill the 0.2 mm layer height (0.025 cubic mm), the second is what you extrude with a 0.3 mm width for a 0.2 mm layer (0.014 cubic mm). From this latter value you can calculate the layer height for a 0.4 mm diameter nozzle to be about 0.11 mm, clearly not filling the gap. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RwO6J.png) --- **Edit:** To further support this, please read [this](https://engineerdog.com/2015/09/02/mechanical-testing-3d-printed-parts-results-and-recommendations/) test. The extrusion width versus strength show the optimum strength when the nozzle extrusion width equals the nozzle size. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CR2F.jpg) Upvotes: 2

2018/03/26

<issue_start>username_0: <https://photos.app.goo.gl/O6yPf3sDeV1yhS0C2> I tried to illustrate my problem in the videos above, two of them show the weird movement and the other shows me clicking on the home button repeatedly. Some Info: * Marlin 1.1.8 or 2.0.0 (same problem in both) * Robotdyn RAMPS 1.4 * 0.9 angle stepper motors * DRV8825 drivers configured at 0.8V Vref * Anet A2 Plus stock for all the rest<issue_comment>username_1: As far as I can see on the attached videos your homing movement is reversed. as per Marlin, the homing for X shall move towards the left side and for Y to the back of the printer. That could occur when: cable connectors to stepper motors are reversed, or the motor is assembled the other way (you can set reverse direction in Marlin) The other issue is steps/mm calibration need to be done see source below. The high pitch in the video could also point that the drv8825 is shutting down the movement as it is overloaded. please also check that for vref > > Configuring Vref In order to measure Vref you first need to turn on > your printer as you normally would. If you only connecct using USB, > but not external power, you get a wrong reading. > > > You need to turn on your multimeter and set it at 2v. Put the red one > on the potentiometer and the Black one on the Gnd pin. Both are marked > on the images here. > > > Before starting this I read they come with a very high vref setting, > and it is recommended to start around 0.5v Vref. After measuring mine, > I can confirm they come with a very high initial setting. Mine both > came at 1,65v or so! - Yours might be different, which just underlines > the importance of doing this. > > > Contrary to normal potentiometer usage, the ones on most copies/clones > of DRV8825 are lowered by turning clock-wise, so that is what we will > do, to we hit 0,5v on each. - A quarter of a full turn lowered it to > 0,7v, - after that it goes very, very rapidly down, so aim for the > quarter of a turn + a tiny tad more. If you buy your DRV8825 directly > from pololu.com the Potentiometer are dialed up by turning it > clock-wise: > > > [source](http://www.instructables.com/id/Installing-and-Configuring-DRV8825-Stepper-Drivers/) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The problem was the logic of the endstops that were reversed Upvotes: -1 [selected_answer]

2018/03/26

<issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for suggestions for 3D design software which support designing multi-material parts. I will be printing on a multi-extruder machine based on RepRap firmware. The printer will handle the files when given a proper g-code file. Slic3r will produce a proper g-code file given the right input. STL seems to be single-material, so I am looking for something like AMF files, or any alternative. My question is, what is available for 3D design software which will produce a geometry file which slic3r (or some other slicing software) will properly process? I'm not asking for opinions on which software is best. I believe this is my first question in any StackExchange forum, so if I have trespassed on community standards, it was not my intention.<issue_comment>username_1: You do not necessarily need a specific design tool, you can use any tool you want to create your multiple material product. It is the slicer software that manages the materials by assigning the correct extruder. E.g. Cura is able to join 2 STL files that fit together and assign each part a specific extruder and thus material. Please read more [here for instructions](https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/34012-get-started-with-cura-printing-with-two-colors) Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: A Scriptable Process for Generating Multi-Material STL Files: ------------------------------------------------------------- I am now using interactive CAD software to define the more complex features of the object I am printing (in the current case, clock faces), and then using OpenSCAD to do the boolean volume operations. To print the composite object, I need three STL files, one for each material I am using. The three parts are the clock body, the translucent optics to conduct the LED lights, and the clock numbers. I need: * one STL for the body minus the LED optics and minus the numbers. * one STL for the numbers minus the LED optics, and * one STL for the LED optics. The CAD package supports the operations, but every time I change anything, I have to jump through several hoops to combine the three parts, manually and recreate the three objects. I had used OpenSCAD to make the optics and the numbers, and they were never in the same coordinate system as the clock body from the interactive CAD package. So, I scripted it and used OpenSCAD to read the clock body STL and being it into OpenScad. I transformed it into the common coordinate system. I then did, one by one, based on a command-line parameter, the boolean operations, rendered the result, and exported the resulting STL file. When I read the three files into PrusaSlicer, the lined up perfectly and everything worked simply, without and precision hand-eye coordination, and with no drama. Scripts and command lines work for repeatability far better than squint, drag, and guess. Upvotes: 2

2018/03/27

<issue_start>username_0: I have this clogging problem on my 3D printer that I am having a really hard time to solve. I am a hobbiest so in no way am I a professional with regards to 3D printers. I also know that this is a popular issue and I have tried a lot of the proposed solutions (going through a lot of PLA filament and failed prints) to no avail. I will try to describe the problem and what I have tried to solve it. First the issue:[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OremM.jpg) This shows how the filament clogs. The next image shows the assembled printer head for reference.: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AhioD.jpg) This is how the print looks when it fails:[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZcvdG.jpg) I have tried the following: - Adjusting the temperate between 190 up to 220 for the PLA filament. Everything trying a print with it. - Doing a thorough cleaning of the nozzle (Acetone soak, wire brush, guitar string etc.) - Checking the Teflon pipe inside the tube if it is clear and ensuring that the edges allow the filament to pass through. - Check if the cooling fans work well to ensure cooling of the whole assembly (they work, they aren't jammed etc.) - Dissambling the printer head and putting it back together. I have printed with the printer before without a problem. I printed PETG a few times to get that working and the results were decent. When I returned to PLA this issue started and no matter what I change on the profile it won't work. I have tried adjusting feedrate, flow rate, retraction amount and speed, temperature, fan speeds to name but a few things. I have a Cura profile I can upload if that will help. Any advise would be much appreciated. I have been struggling with this for a while now and really need some options.<issue_comment>username_1: You do not necessarily need a specific design tool, you can use any tool you want to create your multiple material product. It is the slicer software that manages the materials by assigning the correct extruder. E.g. Cura is able to join 2 STL files that fit together and assign each part a specific extruder and thus material. Please read more [here for instructions](https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/34012-get-started-with-cura-printing-with-two-colors) Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: A Scriptable Process for Generating Multi-Material STL Files: ------------------------------------------------------------- I am now using interactive CAD software to define the more complex features of the object I am printing (in the current case, clock faces), and then using OpenSCAD to do the boolean volume operations. To print the composite object, I need three STL files, one for each material I am using. The three parts are the clock body, the translucent optics to conduct the LED lights, and the clock numbers. I need: * one STL for the body minus the LED optics and minus the numbers. * one STL for the numbers minus the LED optics, and * one STL for the LED optics. The CAD package supports the operations, but every time I change anything, I have to jump through several hoops to combine the three parts, manually and recreate the three objects. I had used OpenSCAD to make the optics and the numbers, and they were never in the same coordinate system as the clock body from the interactive CAD package. So, I scripted it and used OpenSCAD to read the clock body STL and being it into OpenScad. I transformed it into the common coordinate system. I then did, one by one, based on a command-line parameter, the boolean operations, rendered the result, and exported the resulting STL file. When I read the three files into PrusaSlicer, the lined up perfectly and everything worked simply, without and precision hand-eye coordination, and with no drama. Scripts and command lines work for repeatability far better than squint, drag, and guess. Upvotes: 2

2018/03/27

<issue_start>username_0: I have been searching around on google and not found any answers to this dilemma. I am using a Prusa I3 printer with PLA, trying to print horseshoes for the company I work for. They are for model horses, so quality is fairly important. I seem to have gotten all the settings dialed in just the way I want them and for the most part, the prints come out fine. There is however one annoying thing that keeps happening. When the filament is going around the curve of the top of the horseshoe on layers beyond the first, the filament does not follow the curves of the first layer. But its not every time. It seems like it is just the 2nd or 3rd Layers that are doing it. I have adjusted the flow rate, the speed, the layer height, temperature, and nothing seems to get rid of this irksome issues. I can of course provide more in depth details, and am including a pic of what i am getting. Any Ideas?[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vr1tx.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: It could very well be that your print speed is too high (starting from the 2nd layer) for the motors to keep up comfortably. Try reducing the print speed to perhaps 75-80% of what you are using to see if it addresses the issue. You should also check you model to make sure there are errors in the STL. Sometimes such mesh errors can cause funny things to happen. Do you see the irregularities in the print preview at all? Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Is that printed on to tape? It looks *very* uneven. I'm guessing this is general bad adhesion and its just showing up best when going around curves. If you print onto tape, try putting it down with a squeegee, so it's absolutely flat and level with no creases or bubbles. I've personally had very little luck printing onto masking tape. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Using a combination of external and small perimeter speed settings (Slic3r), as well as slowing down the overall print speed on the printer itself, I was able to get reliable curves on the horseshoes. I have also downloaded Cura and am playing with the advanced print options that it comes with. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: possible solutions 1) try and increase the extruder temp by 5 degrees for the first layer and see if that helps 2) disable coolign for the first few layers. 3) try adding some PVA glue (washable school glue or elmers washable gluestick) to the masking tape if the above failed set a z offset (in slic3r the z offset is in the printer tab) 3a) if you manually level with paper and have access to a caliper. change the z offset in your slicer, to a negative of whatever you used to level. 3b) if you manually level and you don't have a caliper set the z offset to -.1, if you used something thicker like a business card try -.15 or -.2 Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: I got the same problem on a Ultimaker 3 with Cura. The problem was, that there is a hidden option for the initial layer. By default the first layer is set to something around 130-150 % of the normal layer height. So if you set up 0.2 mm the initial layer will be printed with 0.27 mm and this can cause problems. After setting this initial layer height to also 0.2 mm the print stuck really good at the bed. I also made similar observations on my own Anet A8. Upvotes: 2

2018/03/28

<issue_start>username_0: I am quite new to 3D printing, and having difficulty printing first layer of an object with support. The object has a few curved surfaces that touch the print bed, so not a big starting foot print. I am printing on a genuine Prusa i3 mk2s, using PLA, 210 °C (clean from what I can tell) nozzle, 60 °C (clean, good condition) heat bed. My model is an STL from Thingiverse, and I sliced it with Prusa Control. Settings: 0.3 mm layers, 30 % infill, Support from build plate, brim on. I have run the printer calibration, z-axis calibration, etc. Only thing that might be a bit out is my z-axis might be a *fraction* too low. I have no issues when printing objects without support, and usually don't have issues printing objects with support (although typically these have a larger contact area of the object to the print bed as well) After it prints the brim (which adheres well), it tries to print the support layers for the "actual" layers that will get printed first. These layers do not touch the outer brim. They go down with a little bit of "squeeze out" when the printer does a 180-degree turn. (this can be seen on the right hand end of first picture). Then, it attempts to print the whole-of-base support structure (refer to pic 3 and 4 for details). Where these support layers touch the outer brim, they adhere well. When they touch the initial support layer sections, it tears them up, leaving a big mess. What appears to me to be happening, is the small sections that get printed first (circled in red) are either not adhering well enough, or somehow getting "ruffled up", or are printed too close to the subsequent, broader strokes of the rest of the support layer, such that when the rest of the support layer is printed, it is tearing up the initial small sections. Having 2 densities of support layer per layer seems to be causing issues. Failed print, still on the bed. At the right, there is a section of "fine" support material that sort of survived. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NKa4E.jpg) Close up of the failed first layer. The broad strokes seem to adhere well except for when they meet where the fine layer was - after that it's just a big mess. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rEmXD.jpg) Slicing in Prusa control (part 1): shows the different support structures and very minimal contact of actual object to the bed (orange) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMFL5.png) Close up of other problem area in PC slicing. No actual contact of object to bed here. Also, as a side note, why the funny diagonal line cutting through the rest of the support structure here? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4belv.png)<issue_comment>username_1: It is hard to determine the exact source of the problem as there are few possibilities (I am assuming that you have a single nozzle and only one filament in use): 1. One of the hardest issues for me to get on my printer was fact that my auto-level sensor was mounted about 0.5mm too high - so please check that as this will give you a bit higher Z than expected. 2. Printing speed matters - for some prints I was slowing my printer to 20% of nominal speed to get adhesion 3. a hair-spray layer or a masking tape on the bed could help with getting the grip 4. also you could play with nozzle temperature de/increasing by 5 degrees and see how it is going Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Increase the extrusion width for the first layer. This will ensure that more plastic is extruded and will help with adhesion tremendously. Check our this link for more information: <https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#print-not-sticking-to-the-bed>. The prusa i3 mk2s provides an option to "live adjust" the Z height during a print. You can try raising/lowering your nozzle with this feature to see which way it will adhere better, and then reset the Z to that value once you are satisfied with the adhesion and quality. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: **Quick, low-tech solution:** There might be several issues in your question, but in relation to bed adhesion, I'll share one of the most useful tips I wish someone had told me when I started out: *Spread some glue-stick over the area to be printed*. I used ordinary school/craft glue stick (which I stole from my daughter's school pencil case) - the kind for gluing paper. I use a purple one, so it's easy to see and easy to clean up. I apply a little glue then smear it around with a wet finger to make it a bit uniform. I have a heated bed (FlashForge Creator Pro) and have used this little trick with a range of filaments. In almost every case, it helps adhesion enormously. Parts and supports stick like mad! But they still come off easily enough the usual way. It is a weak glue, so it won't lock the part to the bed. Once the part is off, the purple glue is visible when wet, so it is dead easy to clean up the part and the bed in a minute or two. This trick is so easy that it is worth trying first for any adhesion issues, before digging deeper. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I've seen this on my Prusa clone. It looks to me like the nozzle is a bit too close to the bed so not enough plastic is being extruded. I got a perfect PLA print at 215 °C and 0.2 mm for the first layer and 210 °C with 0.15 mm for the rest. When I tried 215 °C/0.3 mm first layer and 210 °C/0.2 mm on a large print I got poor adhesion and a warped corner. I used the same Z height offset. I didn't get a picture but it looks like the opposite problem to yours; not enough squish down on the first layer. I print with hairspray directly on aluminum and usually get great results. I'm going to retry with a more negative offset and will post pictures of the results. Upvotes: 0

2018/03/29

<issue_start>username_0: I have an Anet A8 printer for about 4 months, set up pretty well (or so I thought) and printing a number of models pretty well. I made a large 3" x 6" box with a sliding lid yesterday and when it was done there was a gap on one side when the lid was slid on. I checked the parts and it turns out they are not square - which means the X and Y axes are not square to each other. I'm wondering how to adjust this - I'm thinking that extending the distance between the back of the frame and the front by adjusting the threaded rods that separate them to a wider distance on the side where the angle is obtuse. Obviously one of the first things I'll check is that the distance between the front and back is the same (I can't imagine why I never checked that before, come to think of it). Does this sound like a sound plan?<issue_comment>username_1: It is hard to determine the exact source of the problem as there are few possibilities (I am assuming that you have a single nozzle and only one filament in use): 1. One of the hardest issues for me to get on my printer was fact that my auto-level sensor was mounted about 0.5mm too high - so please check that as this will give you a bit higher Z than expected. 2. Printing speed matters - for some prints I was slowing my printer to 20% of nominal speed to get adhesion 3. a hair-spray layer or a masking tape on the bed could help with getting the grip 4. also you could play with nozzle temperature de/increasing by 5 degrees and see how it is going Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Increase the extrusion width for the first layer. This will ensure that more plastic is extruded and will help with adhesion tremendously. Check our this link for more information: <https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#print-not-sticking-to-the-bed>. The prusa i3 mk2s provides an option to "live adjust" the Z height during a print. You can try raising/lowering your nozzle with this feature to see which way it will adhere better, and then reset the Z to that value once you are satisfied with the adhesion and quality. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: **Quick, low-tech solution:** There might be several issues in your question, but in relation to bed adhesion, I'll share one of the most useful tips I wish someone had told me when I started out: *Spread some glue-stick over the area to be printed*. I used ordinary school/craft glue stick (which I stole from my daughter's school pencil case) - the kind for gluing paper. I use a purple one, so it's easy to see and easy to clean up. I apply a little glue then smear it around with a wet finger to make it a bit uniform. I have a heated bed (FlashForge Creator Pro) and have used this little trick with a range of filaments. In almost every case, it helps adhesion enormously. Parts and supports stick like mad! But they still come off easily enough the usual way. It is a weak glue, so it won't lock the part to the bed. Once the part is off, the purple glue is visible when wet, so it is dead easy to clean up the part and the bed in a minute or two. This trick is so easy that it is worth trying first for any adhesion issues, before digging deeper. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I've seen this on my Prusa clone. It looks to me like the nozzle is a bit too close to the bed so not enough plastic is being extruded. I got a perfect PLA print at 215 °C and 0.2 mm for the first layer and 210 °C with 0.15 mm for the rest. When I tried 215 °C/0.3 mm first layer and 210 °C/0.2 mm on a large print I got poor adhesion and a warped corner. I used the same Z height offset. I didn't get a picture but it looks like the opposite problem to yours; not enough squish down on the first layer. I print with hairspray directly on aluminum and usually get great results. I'm going to retry with a more negative offset and will post pictures of the results. Upvotes: 0

2018/03/31

<issue_start>username_0: I have a simple printer bot metal with a heated bed, the heated bed I am not using. I am using conductive pla by protopasta The conductive pla is not that strong, so when I take my pieces off the board, sometimes they break. The only time it appears to be invincibly strong is when it sticks to the bed plate! I cannot get the skirt off the bed plate, no matter what I try * a razor blade does not work, even when the bed isn’t heated and after dumping a bunch of acetone on the board * using no skirt does not work, as the printer clogs itself * it is difficult enough to remove to the point that printing itself isn’t fun * when scratching it off, the pieces only chip, because they stick better to the bed than they do to themselves (unlike PLA) What’s a good way to remove a conductive pla skirt from one of the beds? The skirt is the initial outline a printer lays down, it is very thin<issue_comment>username_1: Based on your description "it is very thin" about the skirt, and by the other characteristics you've provided, I suggest that your z-height for the first layer is suspect of being too small, too close to the bed. If you have calibration specific to z-height only, re-calibrate and make a test print with skirt. If the test is better, this tells you that the previous setting was at fault. If the test is not better, use a different setting by 0.01 mm or 0.02 mm and run another test. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I have no experience with your printer model nor with protopasta conductive PLA but since your problem is "too much adhesion" I would simply suggest to **follow in reverse all the usual advices on how to make the first layer adhere better** (a far more common problem). The list of suggestion could be: * Print fast * Do no squash the first layer (see @fred\_dot\_u answer) * Make sure the part fan is on * Reduce the temperature slightly * ... The problem could also be due to the chemical interaction between the surface of your plate and the specific material (for example: it is known that glass - a relatively difficult surface to use with PLA - bonds so well to PETG that sometimes it chips off the bed when you remove the print). If this is the case you could for example **cover your bed in painter's tape** and see if the protopasta conductive PLA adhere worse to it than to the bare bed. Worst case scenario, you could remove the tape with the print and scrub it off from it afterwards with a metal brush or a bit of sandpaper. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I think the setting having the most significant effect would be to increase the Z-height by 0.05-0.1mm so that the skirt is not "sandwiched" against the bed like typical first layers in FDM. This should reduce the adhesion enough for you to remove the skirt from the bed without damage. Alternatively, you could also increase the skirt extrusion width if possible (more material=stronger) and/or print another layer of skirt on top (skirt layers=2). Upvotes: 1

2018/04/02

<issue_start>username_0: Ultimaker Cura offers a platform support type of “*touching buildplate*” which enables the printer to only make a raft for parts of the object that should be touching the build plate. It also offers “*everywhere*” for any object that might be hanging over the build plate. I have a need to only offer support for overhangs up to a certain z height, such any overhang located at a z-point of 4 mm or below. Is there a software that will enable this, either as a setting/addition to Ultimaker Cura or just a G-code export for Pronterface?<issue_comment>username_1: > > Is there a software that will enable this? > > > Yes, as of Ultimaker Cura 3.3 Beta, Ultimaker Cura allows you to specify an area which will not be considered for adding supports. In your case you could define everything above 4 mm to be excluded from building support structures. You can look [here](https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/22192-introducing-ultimaker-cura-33-beta/) for this very new feature, it might be what you're looking for. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: > > Is there a software that will enable this? > > > I don't own a copy of it, but from talking with other 3D printing enthusiasts, I know [simplify3d](https://www.simplify3d.com/) is the slicer out there with the most granular control over support structures. I'm unaware if it has a setting for *exactly* what you want, but I know it has the possibility to manually add support in selected parts of your model, so - depending on size and complexity of your model, and on the level of accuracy you need - it may well be an option for you. It is proprietary, commercial software with a "no question asked" refund policy. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: As an alternative, look into 3D modelling tools which allow you to add your own support towers to the model itself. Do that, then set your slicing tool to "no support" or equivalent. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/03

<issue_start>username_0: For example, to make a DIY cartesian 3d printer you **could** use/do the following: * Create G-code using a program of your choice. * Load it into Universal G-code Sender (GRBL). * Pass it into an Arduino with GRBL. * The arduino can pass the instructions to the drivers through a GRBL arduino uno shield. * The drivers will control the steppers. If you want to make a DYI delta 3d printer, which point of this whole process needs to be altered in order for the delta printer to work properly? Is there an existing open source software for delta printers/cncs? EDIT: This question could be asked about any kind of non-cartesian 3d printer, including Delta, SCARA, Polar, etc.<issue_comment>username_1: The short answer is that the handling of the non-cartesian design is done by the motion-control firmware running on the Arduino. The long answer: I don't believe GRBL supports non-cartesian designs, and it is not commonly used for printers. It is more often used for mills, routers, or laser machines. 3D printers will typically use a firmware such as Marlin, which supports several printer designs, including Delta machines. At no point is the g-code itself changed. The motion control firmware running on the Arduino or other controller interprets the g-code and determines which way and when to step each motor to accomplish the motion. With a simple cartesian machine, commands for the X-axis only relate to the X-axis motor, but for a non-cartesian machine the axis and motors have complex relationships. The firmware must be programmed and configured to control the motors correctly. The g-code itself is never passed to the drivers. The commands to the driver are simple electrical signals to "enable" (to energize the motor power - even to just hold position), "direction" (which way to rotate the motor shaft), and "step" (which causes the motor to rotate by one step in the selected direction). Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Every 3D printer or machine tool that is commanded through G-code must interpret the G-code in terms of the particular mechanism. Even a Cartesian machine in which there is a clear X, Y, and Z axis, each with independent actuators, interprets the G-code and adjusts for the scale factors, considers the current kinetic energy and the implicit changes in the kinetic energy, and constructs a move plan to implement the G-code. This involves considering the velocity limits, the acceleration, the jerk, and possible higher derivatives. This plan is passed to the motor drivers, and the mechanism responds. A delta mechanism is really the same. The difference is that there is not a distinct X, Y, and Z axis, even though the commands in the G-code are given in Cartesian coordinates. My second 3D printer is one I designed using standard hot ends and extruders. I'm using the reprap firmware, and haven't adequately studied the kinematics. My first milling machine, however, was a delta machine with 3 additional degrees of freedom -- a machine style generically called a parallel-kinematics inverted Stewart platform. In my kinematics code, I plan a movement by breaking the Cartesian command into small enough segments that the non-linearity of the 6-axis movement space never exceeds the tiny error of the actuators. I developed a CPU-intensive but effective calibration system that estimates the errors that I introduced when building it, and so the mechanical performance is good enough. The machine itself is a 5'x6'x6' frame of welded steel, so it is pretty dimensionally stable. A delta 3D printer is simpler because there is no control over the roll, pitch, and yaw of the hot end. Unfortunately, not being able to control also means that you are subject to whatever errors are introduced in the construction. "Bed-leveling" of a delta printer consists of estimating some of the machine-unique parameters and compensating for their effects: cup, bowl, ripple, and tilt. Applying these adjustments is done in the kinematics code as a further modification of the G-code Cartesian parameters to the leg-space delta mechanism motions. TL;DR The G-code is not modified, but the parameters expressed in the G-code are adjusted and interpreted in light of the machine kinematics so that the intention of the G-code can be faithfully followed. Upvotes: 2

2018/04/05

<issue_start>username_0: I found an old Creaform3D EXAscan laying around at the company I work for, and tried to plug it on a computer to see if it still works. I discovered that it uses a software called RapidForm for data acquisition, but its license is expired. I looked in the manufacturer site for drivers or something similar but there isn't anything. Is there any other software or way to read the data coming from such scanner?<issue_comment>username_1: So if the original manufacturer still exists, [(which they appear to, and even list your scanner under 'legacy' products)](https://www.creaform3d.com/en/customer-support/legacy-products/exascan-scanner) your best chance of getting it working is going to be to contact them directly. Using proprietary hardware WITHOUT the associated proprietary software can range from merely tedious but possible, to outright impossible, depending on the specific company. Oftentimes with tech products like this, the business model isn't about the product itself, but about the license fees for the software to use it. That they can charge yearly for. It's possible that the raw data is just a stereo camera file with extensions renamed, and equally possible that the firmware in the scanner will do some sort of check for valid license before it will even start scanning, they don't really have much info on their legacy products on their page Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The [Creaform EXAscan](https://www.creaform3d.com/en/customer-support/legacy-products/exascan-scanner) is according to the manufacturer a laser based machine. This means that it determines data points and their positions by some triangonometry done with a laser, 32.000 times a second, resulting in very high density point clouds. This demands a powerful program to work with. At some point, your company used [Rapidform](http://www.directdimensions.com/port_featuredprojects.php?fileName=fp_rapidform), which costs a wooping 10 to 30 grand for a license. Other software in this niece are - [according to a solidworks thread](https://forum.solidworks.com/thread/41681) - [Geomagic](https://de.3dsystems.com/software) and [PolyWorks](https://www.innovmetric.com/en/products/polyworks-inspector). The gist of the thread seems to be that these "big 3" were the best ones at the market in 2011. However I have no idea if they work together with the given hardware or what the later two cost. Upvotes: 2

2018/04/05

<issue_start>username_0: How do I know what nozzle to get for my Anet A6 printer? I want to get some hardened nozzles because I would love to print with some glow in the dark filament, but I know that eats up brass nozzles fast. But there is so many thread differences so I don't know which one to get, or even what thread the Anet A6 is. Could I have some help finding the thread type and what hardened nozzles would be recommended?<issue_comment>username_1: So if the original manufacturer still exists, [(which they appear to, and even list your scanner under 'legacy' products)](https://www.creaform3d.com/en/customer-support/legacy-products/exascan-scanner) your best chance of getting it working is going to be to contact them directly. Using proprietary hardware WITHOUT the associated proprietary software can range from merely tedious but possible, to outright impossible, depending on the specific company. Oftentimes with tech products like this, the business model isn't about the product itself, but about the license fees for the software to use it. That they can charge yearly for. It's possible that the raw data is just a stereo camera file with extensions renamed, and equally possible that the firmware in the scanner will do some sort of check for valid license before it will even start scanning, they don't really have much info on their legacy products on their page Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The [Creaform EXAscan](https://www.creaform3d.com/en/customer-support/legacy-products/exascan-scanner) is according to the manufacturer a laser based machine. This means that it determines data points and their positions by some triangonometry done with a laser, 32.000 times a second, resulting in very high density point clouds. This demands a powerful program to work with. At some point, your company used [Rapidform](http://www.directdimensions.com/port_featuredprojects.php?fileName=fp_rapidform), which costs a wooping 10 to 30 grand for a license. Other software in this niece are - [according to a solidworks thread](https://forum.solidworks.com/thread/41681) - [Geomagic](https://de.3dsystems.com/software) and [PolyWorks](https://www.innovmetric.com/en/products/polyworks-inspector). The gist of the thread seems to be that these "big 3" were the best ones at the market in 2011. However I have no idea if they work together with the given hardware or what the later two cost. Upvotes: 2

2018/04/06

<issue_start>username_0: I hear that heated beds can help with removing finished prints, but not all printers have them! * Is this a nice to have or must have feature? * Are there any downsides to heated beds?<issue_comment>username_1: It can help with bed adhesion. However, most 3D printing plastics will warp without a heated bed (since they shrink as they cool). ABS is notorious for this, although PLA is not so bad, and you can get away without a heated bed for small parts. ABS is so sensitive that you may need a heated (or at least draught-proof) enclosure, as well as a heated bed. If you are considering buying a 3D printer, it is best to get one with a heated bed, unless you are on a very restricted budget. If you buy a printer without a heated bed, you will soon realise that you need one. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I'll try to give it a shot as the other answer (perfectly sound answer b.t.w.) does explain **"how"** we use heated beds, but not **"why"** they are actually needed for good prints. Plastics or polymers are mostly **amorphous** (no macro crystalline structure) and usually relatively hard and brittle at low temperatures (this is referred to as "glassy"). By increasing the temperature of the plastics the state of the material changes as it becomes soft and more ductile (called the viscous or rubbery state). The temperature at which this transition takes place is called the "**glass transition temperature**". It is this temperature where you would heat your bed too (or close to this temperature). Below the glass temperature, the expansion is reduced/low because the polymer chains cannot move easily due to the closer packing and stronger inter-molecular forces; increasing the temperature increases the expansion lowering inter-molecular forces. The difference in stress between the bed and your print is therefore reduced (as of the expansion of the heated polymer). This explains why we use heated bed to get the prints to stick to the bed. To answer your question why it helps in removing prints is that when the temperature is lowered, the polymer gets back into its "glassy" state, shrinks a bit and automatically loosens the print from the bed. Indeed for printing PLA you can print without a heated bed, but for materials with a higher glass transition temperature and higher printing temperature it's almost a must to have. Downsides of heated beds are that they require a lot of power and when improperly installed lead to burned wires and connectors. It's usually wise to strain relief the wires from the bed and use proper gauge silicone leads and connectors. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: There is no simple answer. I will only cover the three main filaments: PLA, ABS, and PETG. * **ABS**: + ABS likes to warp, and dislikes breezes and temperature changes. so a heat bed is required, as is some way to keep breezes off and heat in (I use a plastic tarp over my printer). + Although there *are* print surfaces that will claim to stop the warp. but a print surface can not change the nature of the filament. + A heated bed is pretty much required for ABS * **PLA**: + PLA is currently the most popular filament, it has low warping tendencies and it likes breezes, and prints really easy. + PLA does not need a heated bed, but if the part is big it may peel off the print surface. + A heated bed is optional but will help with any warping you may encounter. * **PETG**: + PETG is described as combining the printability of PLA and the strength of ABS. + PETG is quite stringy and has a higher slightly chance of warping then PLA. + A heated bed is recommended, and will help keep it from warping. Now, for print removal, a heated bed can help as well: * Most PLA prints, especially *smaller* ones will remove just fine without a heated bed, * *Medium* prints having a removal tool will get those off * A heated bed is really helpful for removing *large* prints or prints that won't release using other methods. Upvotes: 2

2018/04/06

<issue_start>username_0: I want to run two stepper motors using Arduino Mega 2560 and RAMPS 1.4. But, somehow I burned the Arduino while I was connecting the motor and plugging the board to the computer. Can I plug external power supply and USB connection to the computer at the same time? ### Additional info from comments I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Polulo red stepper drivers and Arduino Mega R3. I am only using two Nema 17 stepper motors and not using any hotbed or anything else other than the two stepper motors for the x and y axes. I am feeding 11.9 V supply to the RAMPS board. When powered on, can I plug the USB to my computer? Suppose I have connected two motors on the X and Y outputs of the RAMPS, and the external power supply is on, then can I connect my Arduino to my PC using USB? Will it burn my board or not? My only trouble is that when the board is on load, connecting the USB to computer motors would take power by Arduino pins instead of the RAMPS external supply.<issue_comment>username_1: The answer is, yes you can, but you need to follow guidelines. Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard. --- From [RepRap wiki - RAMPS 1.4](http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4) > > Maximum Input Voltage Power Supply without diode There are three > limiting factors to the maximum voltage that you can put into the > RAMPS: > > > The Arduino Mega maximum input voltage Filtering capacitor maximum > voltages PTC fuse maximum voltages First, the 1N4004 diode connects > the RAMPS input voltage to the Arduino Mega which has a recommended > maximum input voltage of 12 volts. If your board does not have this > diode soldered in (or if you cut it), you will need to power the Mega > through the USB connector or through a separate 5v line, but this > allows a higher RAMPS voltage. > > > Second, most boards use 25v or 35v aluminum electrolytic capactors > (C2, C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, and C10). To be safe, you should only go to > half of your rated maximum voltage -- thus if your board has 35v > capacitors (code VZA) then you should use a maximum input of 17.5v. > The absolute maximum voltage is determined by the pololu servo > drivers, which themselves are limited to 35V. > > > Third, the MF-R500 (5A) PTC fuse is rated to 30V and the MF-R1100 > (11A) PTC fuse is rated to 16V. They will need to be replaced with > real fuses. > > > Power Supply with diode If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in, > do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are > rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not > recommended. > > > Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I had a similar issue building my Prusa i3 Mk2s clone. I was constantly hooking & unhooking my Arduino from my PC while the printer was plugged into the mains. At some point it had enough & it released some "magic smoke". Later on I found out this was the power regulator on the Arduino. You shouldn't **need** to plug in the USB and the external power to the Arduino at the same time, but if you did, it is smart enough to only use one. That being said, by default the RAMPS passes 12V straight to the Arduino in order to power it (the Vin pin). Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]

2018/04/06

<issue_start>username_0: I'm building a 40x40x40cm corexy and I am quite impatient so I want the heated to reach the target temperature as fast as possible, so I ordered a [Keenovo silicone heater](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400X400mm-1200W-220V-w-NTC-100K-Thermistor-Keenovo-Silicone-Heater-Pad-for-Huge-Mega-Cube-3D/32550597606.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.Io1mMV) It is a 220VAC 1200Watt bed, so I really want to make sure that it is safe to use. I also bought a [Crydom D2450](http://www.crydom.com/en/products/catalog/series-1-240-ac-panel-mount.pdf) SSR. Could someone tell me if the wiring in the diagram I made below is safe? Do I need to put a fuse or some other kind of safety? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dd7TA.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: The answer is, yes you can, but you need to follow guidelines. Reversing +/- or otherwise incorrectly connecting power can destroy your electronics and cause fire hazard. --- From [RepRap wiki - RAMPS 1.4](http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4) > > Maximum Input Voltage Power Supply without diode There are three > limiting factors to the maximum voltage that you can put into the > RAMPS: > > > The Arduino Mega maximum input voltage Filtering capacitor maximum > voltages PTC fuse maximum voltages First, the 1N4004 diode connects > the RAMPS input voltage to the Arduino Mega which has a recommended > maximum input voltage of 12 volts. If your board does not have this > diode soldered in (or if you cut it), you will need to power the Mega > through the USB connector or through a separate 5v line, but this > allows a higher RAMPS voltage. > > > Second, most boards use 25v or 35v aluminum electrolytic capactors > (C2, C3, C4, C6, C7, C9, and C10). To be safe, you should only go to > half of your rated maximum voltage -- thus if your board has 35v > capacitors (code VZA) then you should use a maximum input of 17.5v. > The absolute maximum voltage is determined by the pololu servo > drivers, which themselves are limited to 35V. > > > Third, the MF-R500 (5A) PTC fuse is rated to 30V and the MF-R1100 > (11A) PTC fuse is rated to 16V. They will need to be replaced with > real fuses. > > > Power Supply with diode If your board has a 1N4004 diode soldered in, > do not apply more than 12 V to it. Original flavor Arduino Mega are > rated to 12 V input. While Arduino Mega 2560 can take 20 V, it is not > recommended. > > > Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I had a similar issue building my Prusa i3 Mk2s clone. I was constantly hooking & unhooking my Arduino from my PC while the printer was plugged into the mains. At some point it had enough & it released some "magic smoke". Later on I found out this was the power regulator on the Arduino. You shouldn't **need** to plug in the USB and the external power to the Arduino at the same time, but if you did, it is smart enough to only use one. That being said, by default the RAMPS passes 12V straight to the Arduino in order to power it (the Vin pin). Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]

2018/04/06

<issue_start>username_0: With hot plastic being laid down layer after layer, I am worried about fumes. Should I only print in a well ventilated work space? Should I add additional ventilation?<issue_comment>username_1: There are some contradicting sources out there on whether plastics, especially ABS, have toxic fumes. It is well known that PLA is food safe, as it is an organic, biodegradable polymer being based on a particular cornstarch. This means that PLA *is* safe when printing, although it can produce foul smells from the dyes and other ingredients. As for the other plastics, it is most commonly said that the fumes are toxic, although, as stated earlier, there are some contradicting topics on this. [Here](https://thesoftlanding.com/is-acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene-abs-plastic-toxic/) and [here](https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/toxic-abs-pla-fumes-3dsafety-org-inquires-vocs-60796/) are some articles for further reading. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The short answer is: **yes, it is always a good idea to print in a well-ventilated area**. The longer answer can be articulated as follows: ### Definition of "fumes" "Fumes" is a fuzzy word that from a chemical/physical perspective includes at least three different things: * **Vapour** - the gas phase of a substance * **Aerosol** - a airborne suspension of tiny particles of liquid, solid, or both * **Smoke** - particles and gases emitted when a material undergoes combustion or pyrolysis (so really: a smoke is a combination of *vapours* and *aerosols* too... but the combustion/pyrolysis will have changed the very nature of the material, so it will be "vapours and aerosols of *a different substance*" ### Interactions with the human body Each of the above has a different way of interacting with the human body. The list of possible interactions is huge, and out-of-scope for this answer, but just to mention a few obvious ones: * Vapours tend to enter cells by osmotic pressure and can have carcinogenic effects by either attacking the genome of the cell or by disrupting its metabolic processes (think: benzene in car fuel) * Aerosols can trigger the immune system, and in return have the body develop allergies or autoimmune reactions. * Aerosols can deposit their particles on the cellular membrane, making it impossible for it to operate correctly and eventually fail (like neurons failing to transmit electrical impulses, for example) * ... ### Composition of filaments Modern filaments are a combination of different substances: the basic plastic (PLA, ABS, PETG...) that gives the name to the filament is almost always mixed with *other plastics* and additives that change its physical characteristics. In some cases, the filament is host to *particles of other materials* (like wood, metals or phosphorescent compounds). Each of the different materials have different transition and critical and flash points (the temperatures at which they will become vapour and ignite respectively), and different physical properties which in turn will affect differently the size of the particles in the aerosol coming out of the printer. ### Conclusion The bottom-line is that it is close to impossible to have a *complete* understanding of how a given "fume" affects human health. Typically the safety of a substance is tested in a lab by directly observing its effect on cells, or by performing epidemiological studies in a population, if the exposure data to a given substance is known. When people comment on PLA being "safe" for example, they typically refer to studies that tested inert, cold, chemically pure PLA. But the *fumes* of a PLA filament will probably not be inert, nor cold, nor be exclusively PLA. Additionally, it has to be observed that it is much easier to rule a filament harmful than safe: for it to be considered harmful it is sufficient to know that one of its components is harmful (for ABS that is typically studies showing the adverse affect of ABS aerosols on health). For it to be deemed safe, one must know that *all* if its components are safe, but most filament do not go through the rigorous testing required to ascertain that. In conclusion, **it is always a good idea to get rid of the fumes from 3D printing regardless of the type filament being used**. The ideal solution is a printing enclosure maintaining negative pressure, but an enclosure with air filtering or a well ventilated room are also good options (ventilation can have adverse effects on printing quality though, due to drafts and their cooling effect). Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2018/04/07

<issue_start>username_0: Recently I noticed that Cura always is giving me less printing time than the print itself takes on my TEVO Tarantula with Marlin firmware. The time difference is about 15 %, at requested 50 mm/s printing speed. **How could I verify real printing speed?**<issue_comment>username_1: **Printing speed is dependent by the firmware and physical properties of your printer**. Slicers typically compute the expected time by assuming the printer will execute *exactly* what it is instructed to do, but a printer is a real object, with mass and momentum, and stepper motors that have an upper limit for their power output and rotation speed. So for example, the GCODE may say "extrude 200mm at 100mm/s" and the slicer will compute that operation as taking 2 seconds. However the printer will need to accelerate and decelerate at the extremes of the movement, and it may even be incapable of reaching speeds over 70mm/s, so the *actual* operation will likely take 3 seconds or more. Accelerations and decelerations account for most of the difference between ideal time and real one, and since the number and intensity of those is totally dependent by the GCODE/model being printed, **it is not possible to simply multiply the computed time for a given factor** (for example `1.15`, as your question seems to imply). A large cylinder printed in vase mode will have a printing time much more similar to the computed one that an intricate model with a very complex surface, for example. In recent years, slicers that are maintained by a printer manufacturer (cura, slic3r PE) have become better at estimating printing times for their own printers, as the settings of the firmware are accounted for in the actual estimating algorithm. If you use Octoprint, you may have noticed that the time estimate octoprint gives improves over time, as **octoprint will analyse the GCODE and measure the elapsed time, and will be able to guesstimate the real time with an increasingly degree of accuracy**. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I use a Anet A8 which has a system acceleration and jerk of 400 and 20 When i slice with Cura, then I use a gcode without acceleration control, because the printer does this by its own and a combination with the gcode acceleration/jerk control gets me some strange behavior (e.g. sometimes some ultra slow movement in fine detail sections, or random nearly stopped movement) But to get a realistic approximation for the print time, i enable the acceleration/jerk control in cura and then I get a really good result, that is really close to the real values. And to be more specific to your question: It is e.g. 50mm/s >>maximum<< speed you can set, not a exactly and absolut speed. If you know your printer you can also experiment with the following approach: Set the max speed really high, so that the max material volume per time is the limiting factor and set the acceleration and jerk as low as needed for good results. So that your printer will accelerate on long lines as long as it can up to the point it has to deaccelerate for the next corner. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/11

<issue_start>username_0: I'm currently designing a RepRap 3D printer that will not have a heated bed. I have heard that it is possible to use a power brick with commercial printers lacking heatbeds. Is this possible with a RepRap printer using a RAMPS board? I'm referring specifically to the TronXY X1 power brick. I was wondering if it we're possible to use the same TronXY X1 power brick with a standard RAMPS 1.4 board - rather than the special board the TronXY X1 uses.<issue_comment>username_1: **Printing speed is dependent by the firmware and physical properties of your printer**. Slicers typically compute the expected time by assuming the printer will execute *exactly* what it is instructed to do, but a printer is a real object, with mass and momentum, and stepper motors that have an upper limit for their power output and rotation speed. So for example, the GCODE may say "extrude 200mm at 100mm/s" and the slicer will compute that operation as taking 2 seconds. However the printer will need to accelerate and decelerate at the extremes of the movement, and it may even be incapable of reaching speeds over 70mm/s, so the *actual* operation will likely take 3 seconds or more. Accelerations and decelerations account for most of the difference between ideal time and real one, and since the number and intensity of those is totally dependent by the GCODE/model being printed, **it is not possible to simply multiply the computed time for a given factor** (for example `1.15`, as your question seems to imply). A large cylinder printed in vase mode will have a printing time much more similar to the computed one that an intricate model with a very complex surface, for example. In recent years, slicers that are maintained by a printer manufacturer (cura, slic3r PE) have become better at estimating printing times for their own printers, as the settings of the firmware are accounted for in the actual estimating algorithm. If you use Octoprint, you may have noticed that the time estimate octoprint gives improves over time, as **octoprint will analyse the GCODE and measure the elapsed time, and will be able to guesstimate the real time with an increasingly degree of accuracy**. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I use a Anet A8 which has a system acceleration and jerk of 400 and 20 When i slice with Cura, then I use a gcode without acceleration control, because the printer does this by its own and a combination with the gcode acceleration/jerk control gets me some strange behavior (e.g. sometimes some ultra slow movement in fine detail sections, or random nearly stopped movement) But to get a realistic approximation for the print time, i enable the acceleration/jerk control in cura and then I get a really good result, that is really close to the real values. And to be more specific to your question: It is e.g. 50mm/s >>maximum<< speed you can set, not a exactly and absolut speed. If you know your printer you can also experiment with the following approach: Set the max speed really high, so that the max material volume per time is the limiting factor and set the acceleration and jerk as low as needed for good results. So that your printer will accelerate on long lines as long as it can up to the point it has to deaccelerate for the next corner. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/12

<issue_start>username_0: Note: I have extended my question as some of you mentioned that the question is not clear. I am using a RAMPS 1.4 board with an Arduino mega 2560. I need to drive a stepper motor as an extruder using either E0 or E1. I am using Repetier-Firmware and can drive the extruder (stepper motor) using the E0 (RAMPS 1.4). Now for my application, I need to make sure that the extruder is in home position before it starts to drive for the very first time. I am trying to use a switch to connect to the end stop and perform this homing operation. I can do this for X, Y, and Z axes. I was wondering how (h/w connections and firmware modification) can I do it for the extruder?<issue_comment>username_1: **The edited question** appears to mention that **the actual extruders of the print head need to home / limit themselves**. The answer is that this is not required. When operating direct or Bowden driven extruder setups, you know (or you can measure or find out experimentally) the distance that the filament has to travel from extruder entry to hot end (e.g. to load new filament). If already loaded, because you have printed before, you also know where the filament is (filament could stop after printing, personally I retract the filament en few mm after a print). When a new print starts you usually reverse the retraction at temperature and extrude some extra filament to prime the nozzle to counteract oozed out filament for instance. At that point, the nozzle is primed and the gcode G92 E0 is then used to tell the extruder this is the start at zero length, sort of the home position of the filament. All this is usually done in the start code of your slicer, similar to disabling bed and hot end temperature or final retract is done in the end code of your slicer. **This answer below addresses the initial question**, this question was not quite clear. It was **phrased as of the head containing the extruders needed to be homed correctly**. The normal end-stops (can be mechanical or optical switches) already ensure that the printer head (containing the extruder or extruders) is homed correctly (if correctly configured in your printer firmware). The home offsets you define in the firmware define that you start at the origin (0,0,0). Your question does not state what firmware you use, but e.g. in Marlin firmware these settings are found in the [firmware configuration file](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h). In this file the following is defined: ``` // Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions. #define X_MIN_POS 0 #define Y_MIN_POS 0 ``` These values must be changed according to the offset between your switch and the origin of the heat bed (e.g. Prusa style printers have the origin at the front left). For my Prusa clone printer I have defined: ``` // Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions. #define X_MIN_POS -35 #define Y_MIN_POS -12 ``` What this says is that the homing switch for the X axis is 35 mm left of the origin, etc. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I think the question has already been answered(if at all possible because the question is still not clear exactly what you mean), but let me try putting this a different way. You have to ask yourself what is homing and why are you doing it. The purpose of homing your axes is to set their 0 position in space. This then means that any subsequent movements will be relative to these 0 positions and assuming the motors skip no steps should allow accurate positioning of the head inside the build volume throughout the print. In other words their relative position should match their absolute position. As has already been stated the extruder axis does not work like this. Now I think some of the confusion from your question comes around what you mean by homing the extruder. The extruder position is defined by the previously mentioned X, Y and Z axis. The extruder axis however controls the position of the filament inside the hotend and therefore how much filament is extruded into the build volume. This axis is arbitrarily set to 0 using G92 at the beginning of the print because unlike the spacial axes the absolute position of this axis is not particularly important. Strictly speaking if you were to care about the extruder axis’ absolute position, home would probably be the start of the roll. This however is irrelevant. All that you care about during a print is that the extruder axis remains consistent throughout the print to allow accurate extrusion. So typically at the beginning of a print you will prime the nozzle to ensure plastic is ready to be extruded as ooze from the previous print may create a delay between moving the extruder axis and plastic actually being extruded. Once the nozzle is primed however the axis position will just be set to 0 and then all future positions of that axis will be relative to where it started on the roll. Hopefully that helps but if it doesn’t I think we still need more clarification of what you are actually trying to accomplish. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/13

<issue_start>username_0: I would like to be able to add custom commands/script to be executed during a print. For example I would like to write some software to take a picture check the print hasn't moved off the bead between layers. Does anyone know if any of the available software/firmware allows custom scripts or calling back to the computer before continuing printing? I am happy to build/buy a new printer if anyone knows a control board that has this sort of feature.<issue_comment>username_1: One of the solutions could be adding a layer change script (simplifi3d has that out of the box) and then using marlin firmware you could set a value to digital pin that could triger external actions. > > [Layer Change G-Code](https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=1959): I personally haven't had to use this, but I'm > sure that there are some excellent reasons/ideas to use for this. If > you'd like for a G-Code script to be inserted in-between each layer, > than you can simply place it in this tab. One interesting use of this, > is for the FlashForge Dreamer, to have the lights blink in between > each layer, however that can be a bit too much at times! > > > The syntax for the M42 command is: M42 S(value to be written to pin) P (pin number) e.g. To set digital pin 30 high, you would use M42 S1 P30 > > [The MARLIN firmware will](http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?146,168237,173098) not enable you to change the status / write > values to any of the pins in use for things such as the heaters, > thermistors, end stops etc. The command will let you send values other > than 0 and 1 to any pins which can output analogue values. (0-255) > > > Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: A solution I use involves a 3d print server. I have defined shell scripts that address the GPIO ports of the Raspberry Pi that runs OctoPrint. OctoPrint is a 3d print server that can be accessed over your home network. From the [OctoPrint homepage](https://octoprint.org/): > > OctoPrint is the snappy web interface for your 3D printer that allows > you to control and monitor all aspects of your printer and print jobs, > right from your browser. > > > This print server application allows for specification of custom Gcode commands (linked to system commands for instance; note this is a plug-in called "GCODE Systems Commands", see image below). As an example, e.g. OCTO100 is scheduled to run fan\_on.sh shell script. This script in its turn drives a relay to switch the annoying extruder cooling fan that is always on when the printer is powered. These codes can then be used throughout your sliced file to do stuff you want (e.g. by using the TweakAtZ plugin of Cura). E.g. my extruder fan will stay on several minutes before it is scheduled off after a successful print through OCTO110 which in itself runs the script fan\_off.sh. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CaMa.png) The scripts from the figure could be setup to schedule to do something, e.g. fan\_on.sh controls a relay using port 22 of the GPIO of the Raspberry PI: ``` #!/bin/bash gpio export 22 out gpio -g write 22 0 ``` So to disable the fan you would need fan\_off.sh to be: ``` #!/bin/bash gpio export 22 out gpio -g write 22 1 ``` Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I saw this 3 years ago, this is a [closed loop control](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=33&v=L-_5KsAOVko), I think is better that taking a photo then analyze it with a kind of optical recognition software which needs some of possible failures. The video has also the link for the [additional resources](https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dc-motor-closed-loop-control-software) the 3d printer will need according his author. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/17

<issue_start>username_0: Are these vertical lines described as "banding"? Would the most likely culprit be the extruder? FWIW, this was printed in "vase mode". [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ZCPF.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Banding usually refers to Z banding and manifests itself in a wavy/non-straight wall in Z direction: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYp55.jpg) This sort of banding is related to mechanical or design issues of the printer (lead screw (nuts), belts, play, etc.) Your print, however, shows local thicker walls. It appears that these local thicker parts are related to the change in direction of the print head. A 3D printer does not print curved lines or arcs (although [G-codes do exist for arc movement](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G2_.26_G3:_Controlled_Arc_Move)), all movements are straight lines. So the cylinder consists of straight lines. By rendering the cylinder with more triangels you could increase the amount of straight lines to form a better approximation of the cylinder circumference. You could also try to lower the printing speed, but since you did not post any printing parameters that will be a guess. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Ok, so it turns out that this was caused by a problem in my stepper motor drivers, which results in missed steps, as described on [this guy's blog](https://web.archive.org/web/20171127173338/http://www.engineerination.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html?m=1) The fix was to hook up these "TL Smoother" modules (I got [these particular ones](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B071WG3SZQ) from amazon but there are a bazillion clones) After hooking up TL Smoother, this is what the print looks like: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/B52kB.jpg) Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]

2018/04/19

<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to make stencils of Japanese Kanji characters with my 3D Printer. I am very new to Autodesk Fusion360 so I am running into some barriers: 1. I am having trouble sketching a rectangle and then a text character and extruding them separately. If I extrude one they both disappear. Therefore I have to sketch one, then extrude, then create the next sketch object. How can I create both sketches and select different ones to extrude? 2. I am having this basic problem where my stencil has parts that are disconnected (see example below). I've tried sketching lines and thin rectangles to connect the pieces but they both didn't work. I once again can't extrude after it's created. How can I connect the pieces after extruding? How can I connect them inside a text object? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLaBH.png "Example Kanji Stencil")<issue_comment>username_1: As I see it, for a stencil you want the brown part with the white part(s) cut out. This is easily doable. You can do this one sketch at a time, extrude it, and cut it out of the brown part. To connect the inner brown parts to the rest of the brown, you'll need to cut a thin rectangle in the white character so that the inner brown pieces are connected to the outer brown pieces. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: To answer your question about the disappearing sketch check out this answer: [forums.autodesk.com - sketch disappears after creating body](https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-design-validate/sketch-disappears-after-creating-body/td-p/5965216) The default behavior in fusion is that sketches are hidden after the first time they are used in an operation such as an extrude. You can just unhide the sketch by expanding the sketches group in the tree and clicking the light bulb. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: May I suggest an alternative? Create your characters in a document editor (such as Word or OpenOffice), using a very large font size. Save the characters to an image file. Go to one of many converter sites, such as [embossify](http://www.embossify.com/) or [sculpteo](https://www.sculpteo.com/en/workshops/create/text/?uuid=QTy21E63tHOjsSDR8WDdZd), and let them make a 3-D model of your character. Upvotes: 0

2018/04/19

<issue_start>username_0: I have the same problem as [this person](https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/tevo-tarantula-owners/forums/general/topic:29448) but I don't have those lines in my `RAMPS.h` file as seen [here](http://joxi.ru/DmBgR75UNe8k52.png). I've recently burnt my potentiometer on E0 so the motor isn't working properly anymore. I want to use it on E1 instead. If you have any better idea how to fix this instead of changing code in firmware, feel free to share.<issue_comment>username_1: the fastest way is to slice using two extruders and assign all print work to E1. Set the head offsets to [0,0] and that shall do the job. The harder is to edit pins file and do remapping. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Another [posting](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3925/how-to-switch-motor-outputs-and-use-e1-as-x-in-marlin-firmware/5786#5786) already discusses how you can change the pins to use spare stepper controllers for broken controllers by changing the pin layout. Assuming you are using a RAMPS board and using [Marlin firmware](http://marlinfw.org/), you should look at the [pins\_RAMPS.h](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h) file. This file requires changes to address E1 to E0 and vice versa, please edit the file so that: ``` #define E0_STEP_PIN 26 #define E0_DIR_PIN 28 #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 24 #define E0_CS_PIN 42 ``` is changed to: ``` #define E0_STEP_PIN 36 #define E0_DIR_PIN 34 #define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30 #define E0_CS_PIN 44 ``` and also change: ``` #define E1_STEP_PIN 36 #define E1_DIR_PIN 34 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30 #define E1_CS_PIN 44 ``` to: ``` #define E1_STEP_PIN 26 #define E1_DIR_PIN 28 #define E1_ENABLE_PIN 24 #define E1_CS_PIN 42 ``` When the file is changed an saved, [build and upload](http://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install.html) code to your board and plug the connector of the E0 stepper into the E1 header. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I wanted to expand on the great comment by username_2 and explain what's the fastest way to change pins. I know this is an older topic, but for the sake of people looking for an answer, I figured I add this. First of all it's easiest to change the pins in the pins file for your specific board by simply renaming E0 to E1 and vice versa. This is much simpler than copying and pasting the pin numbers per pin. Only do this when swapping entire driver pin lists as this gets quite confusing when switching around only certain pin numbers. Second, and this is a big one: don't forget that when you use drivers that are capable of sensorless homing, and when you use that technique, you also have to change the \_DIAG\_PIN settings or else the sensorless homing won't work correctly. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/20

<issue_start>username_0: I have a 15x15 cm heating resistor from my current printer (printing area: 12x12 cm). I would like to switch to a glass bed and to rework my printer to increase the printing area to 20 cm (22x22 cm glass plate). Would it be possible to use the old heating resistor placed only in the centre? this way I would have a smaller heated bed for ABS and a bigger one for PLA. Would the glass crack due to non uniform heating? This is because glass has a conductivity of less than 5 W/mK, therefore the hot area will stay hot and basically never really spread the heat to the surrounding area. So the frame will be cold and the center hot, causing stresses. Related: <https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/31842/how-much-an-unevenly-heated-glass-plate-bows><issue_comment>username_1: The glass will be taking up the heat to slowly cover its full area. That means two things: 1. it will not crack as there is no thermal shock 2. it will put more pressure on the heater as there will be bigger heat absorption, so in an edge case, you could end-up with not getting a required temperature on the glass surface and/or the heating process will be very slow. In that case, I personally will try that out and then if I have an issue with getting proper temperature, then I will buy a new heater. --- A comment regarding heat expansion: my glass is about 20mm longer than the bed and it is warm during the printing process. The 'breaking' stress is connected with temperature shock (an immediate temp change), not a relatively slow heating process. However, borosilicate glass also known as Pyrex (TM) expands very little. Much less than most metals. This is why it doesn't break when exposed to sudden hot and cold changes. So in short words - check tea lighter under your tea-pot and see how te heat is comming out from the centre [source](http://glassproperties.com/expansion/ExpansionMeasurement.htm) Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you're using borosilicate glass (aka pyrex) then it won't crack. You can get squares of ~20x20 cheaply off aliexpress. If you're using window glass, picture frame class etc then you might have issues with cracking, it will depend on lots of factors like the wattage of your heater and the temperature of the room. Your biggest problem will be that the bed heats very non-uniformly, which is unlike to give good print adhesion. I'd suggest a sheet of aluminium underneath the glass if possible, it will allow much more even heating. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I purchased some very, very cheap thin glass from walmart (or home depot, cant remember for sure). Probably the thinnest kind available. Went through dozens of prints heating it up to 85C only at the center and never experienced issues with cracking. Personally I believe you’ll be fine. I can look for specifics if you need them. Upvotes: 2

2018/04/21

<issue_start>username_0: How does Z offset (`M851`) work with an auto leveling sensor? Does it add the Z offset to the offset of the `G29` mesh? or the `G29` value replaces the `M851`? My printer is an Anet A8 with Marlin firmware, I was having issues with the autoleveling sensor and reset the Z offset to 0 and let `G29` get the mesh offsets and its working good now. I was looking through Marlin G-code page but couldn't figure out how `G29` affects `M851` or vice-versa. My setup with level issues: ``` M851 Z0 G28 M211 S0 ;turned endstops off and got a paper to find the zoffset M851 Z-0.59 M500 M211 S1 ``` And `G29` before printing.<issue_comment>username_1: `G28` instructs the printer to home itself to the X an Y endstops and the Z sensor determines the homing of the Z axis; i.e. when the sensor triggers, this is not necessarily (and most commonly) not the position where the nozzle is at Z=0. `G29` determines the shape of the bed by probing the bed. This will set the shape of the bed with respect to the sensor trigger point as described earlier. The Z-offset (set by `M851 Z-x.xx` is needed to set the offset between the nozzle and the sensor trigger point (to the bed). The sequence to determine the offset is: ``` M851 Z0; // Set the Z offset to zero height G28; // Home Z in the middle of the bed G1 Z0; // This will move the head to zero height; M211 S0; // This will disable the end stops so that you // will be able to proceed lower than Z=0 ``` Now adjust Z height to fit a piece of paper and note the negative Z height (either through the LCD or through an application or [console/terminal](/q/10573) over USB) *Please remember, that a sensor doesn't level your bed, is compensates for the shape, the user should always tram (level) the bed as good as possible with respect to the nozzle print head movement plane! This implies that the user should tram the complete bed as good as the skills allow, all corners, like you would do with a normal Z endstop switch.* ``` M851 Z-1.23; // Define the Z offset M500; // Store the settings M211 S1; // Enable the end stops again ``` Please note that -1.23 is a fictive value that should be replaced by your own value. To explicitly answer the raised question, the `G29` probes the bed by scanning the surface geometry and the `M851` adds an offset for the sensor trigger to the nozzle (at the center). The offset is required to let the firmware know where the nozzle is with respect to the trigger point. The offset therefor lowers the scanned `G29` surface, no replacement is taking place. The sketches below illustrate this: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png "BLTouch or 3DTouch sensor Z-offset definition") [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sGwU.png "Inductive/capacitive proximity sensor Z-offset definition") *note that the bottom line of the "M851 Z offset" denotes the `G29` scanned surface* Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You must use the sequence ``` G28 G29 ``` If you do `G28` after `G29` it will reset bed leveling. I guess you don't want that. On my printer deployed z-probe falls 2.3 mm lower than nozzle. In printer settings I've therefore stored static Z-offset of -2.3 mm, so after `G28` and `G29` I can be sure that when ever I tell Z-axis to lower to zero, it can go down -12.3 mm, coming to stop at around 0.1 mm above the bed surface (so just a single sheet of paper fits between the nozzle and the bed). That said, I'm not worrying about sending the Z-offset via print commands, as restart restores the aforementioned -2.3 mm offset. Upvotes: 0

2018/04/24

<issue_start>username_0: So I bought a Lulzbot Mini a couple months ago and finally downloaded Ultimaker's version of Cura... Boy... have I been missing out... One feature Ultimaker Cura implemented that I've been looking for is a "pause at z-height" feature ("post-processing tool"). I'm building prototypes of an electronics device, and creating two pieces that snap together looks a lot worse than printing a single piece. If I could pause my print, insert my electronics, and continue printing, my device would look a lot more professional (even if it took longer to make). My one concern is the lithium ion battery. Right now I'm printing in TPU. With a heated bed of 40 degrees Celsius, and a heated extruder at 240 degrees Celsius, there seems to be a significant risk that the lithium ion battery reaches a temperature above 60 degrees Celsius (damaging the cell, causing a potential explosion). Granted, I am not sure what "60 degrees Celsius" actually means. It could mean only one part of the packaging needs to reach this temperature, or it could mean the entire LiPo's internal temperature would need to reach this. In either case, the numbers don't look good. On the other hand, the heated bed surely doesn't need to remain heated beyond the first few layers? Additionally, I can create a "roof" for the LiIon battery that I can slip it under, providing some insulative TPU before the rest of the device. I think the print would happen safely like this, but obviously, an explosion would be really really bad. Like it would probably burn my house down, and I would be asleep when it happened. **Does anyone have any experience doing this? Is there a way to turn off the heated bed mid-print? I guess I can insert a g-code line during the pause? Will this affect the remainder of the print you think? Am I being paranoid? Can the extruder actually pass heat through a 1–2 mm of insulation and cause an explosion? Anyone know how heat travels from the initial, liquid print material through the rest of the structure?** Any more advice or things I should consider before pursuing this? A more specific pause type might be helpful, if anyone knows of any.<issue_comment>username_1: I would have to see your design to comment more but why not just change your model with the lid or top that can be either fused on later or attached in some other fashion? It is possible to turn off the heated bed after a certain layer. It looks like there is a discussion here with the G-code: [Can Cura Turn Off a Heated Bed Partway Into a Print?](https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?t=2061) I would personally avoid exposing the battery to the heat generated by the hotend or the build plate. Printers alone can burn your house down. Why combine it with the awesome power of a lithium ion battery? Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: There is an option to directly insert extra commands at a specific Z height, no need to enter them manually. That said, it is a bad idea to turn off the heated bed while printing, because this will often detach the object from the bed completely (that's kind of the point of having the heated bed in the first place: better adhesion while printing, and easier removal afterwards). I wouldn't print over a battery to enclose it, not just because it is likely to damage the battery, but also to keep the battery exchangeable. Enclosing the rest of the design in a case is possible, but normally it is easier to print two separate parts that can be screwed together through a hole in the PCB. So, experience: it's not worth it usually. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: If your heatbed is at 40°C, and it's not dangerous until 60°C, I wouldn't worry. The heatbed is what heats up the printed object, not the print head. It will obviously heat it up a tiny bit in a small local area when printing, but the heat dissipates rapidly, only affecting the temperature of the object very little. If you're worried, try getting a laser thermometer, and monitor the surface temperature of the battery during a test print. They're like $10, so it's not a big investment to try it out. Alternately, maybe you can do a test print with a stand-in for the battery, and embed a temperature probe in the stand-in, and monitor the temperature real-time while printing. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Well. First. If you ever think, hmm this might cause an explosion. DON'T DO IT. SERIOUSLY. Modify the design so you can insert the battery. That said, most softwares will let you set a heater temp per layer. I have mine set through simplify 3d. I usually use this setting for the hot end, as I like to have the first layer hot. You will have bad results doing this with the bed as you will likely cause the print to expand or shrink enough to pop off. You are better not using the heated bed for the print than to turn it off. Look into rafts as well. That is how makerbot helps mitigate their heatless beds. A fan will also help.. AGAIN do not try anything that can possibly might blow something up. There are a lot of variables you do not know, such as how conductive the plastic is and how much will travel through the hotend to the battery. Or how off the specs are for this battery. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Discharge the battery entirely, then there is no danger of ignition if the membrane breaks. The battery cells are usually protected by Kapton tape (LiPo) or maybe even metal (LiIon). Both will withstand the temperature of 240°C. The downside is that the cells are damaged after a deep discharge. You should discard the battery afterwards. **What I would expect when you do that:** A deeply discharged battery will bloat up because the solvents will gas out. This will also happen if you heat up the battery enough (>>60 degree). The gases themselves can be ignited again but are captured in our air sealed Kapton envelope :) Igniting these gases will be comparable to a short flash with a spray can. The temperature is not enough to damage the envelope. The solvents will be also not very dangerous in that temperature range. In case of mechanical breakdown of the membrane nothing will happen anymore. From [Solvents and Additives](https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/materials-science/material-science-products.html?TablePage=107476223): > > [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HgIFF.png "Solvents and Additives") > > > Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_6: Although the bed may only reach 60°, the extrusion above the battery will be at closer to 200°C. Granted there will be a fairly low heat flux, but it will still cause ageing of the battery. At a minimum, some insulation or packing above the battery would seem like a sensible move. This could be printed material, and you could print over the top if you really want to seal the part. Also remember that as LiPo cells age, they generate gas (this is designed to be trapped in the pouch) and swell. You should try and avoid any risk of puncture if this happens. Upvotes: 2

2018/04/25

<issue_start>username_0: I'm thinking about building my own 3D printer/Laser Engraver/CNC. Since all use a standard Cartesian axis I wanted to be able to swap out tool heads depending on the purpose. I have everything thought out except the coding aspect of the project. I currently own a 3D printer and am familiar with some of the coding aspects, gcode, stepper motor moment, axis zeroing, etc; but if I am to build a 3 axis system how do you go about coding it? Are there programs that automatically calibrate all the motors? Can I take existing 3D printer programs and adjust the stepper motor values and build plate area? or do I have to code a new printing program from scratch that can read gcode? For simplicity lets just talk about the printing aspect of the build as I realize that CNC's and laser engravers work on different vector systems. Thanks :)<issue_comment>username_1: The foundation of any 3D printer is the controller and the firmware. Many devices are based on Arduino type controllers, with stepper motor driver boards either integrated or added as a plug-in component. Some manufacturers will use in-house or outside resources and develop their own boards and firmware. You can search for 3D printer controllers and get a pretty comprehensive list of the various devices available for purchase. Smoothieboard is one device, Raspberry Pi and Arduino as noted above, and others. There can be found varying "flavors" of firmware to load onto these controllers as well. The field is exhaustive. To address your focus regarding the printing aspect, that's one stepper motor per print head/nozzle (usually) and involves calibrating the amount of filament dispensed from the nozzle per unit steps, or more easily understood, amount of steps per unit of filament movement. My stepper motor for the extruder has a planetary gear and moves 100 mm of filament for about 5000 steps. All of the parameters you've noted are integrated with the firmware. Motor calibration requires movement per step or steps per millimeter to be entered, unless you purchase a turnkey system with the values loaded. You can adjust many of the parameters from the slicing software, but it's more practical to determine the calibration settings, enter that information into your slicer and proceed with model management. Look into instructables for others' build projects to see what they've accomplished and the steps involved in such a build. This can give you a starting point for your efforts. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: this is an extension to fred\_dot\_u answer. As I am in the process of building my own printer, I decided to use RAMPS Arduino shield for electronics and Marlin firmware + Arduino mega2560 as a logic controller. As above are battle-tested, I don't need to discover wheel again, but rather focus on the mechanics. The RAMPS mainboard will provide you with the ability to connect 5 steppers and 3 PWM regulated devices (that can be heat-bed, nozzle and fan or combination) and there is still possibility to connect more as a bunch of IO pins are ready to alocate. MarlinFirmware is avalible on github, so you can download it and then provide all mechanical parameters that are needed to properly drive your printer -so that is: 1. Mainboard type 2. type coreXY, XZ .... 3. bed size (x,y) 4. gantry size (z) 5. steps / mm for steppers 6. thermal protection parameters 7. LCD display (if in use) The main benefit of using Marlin for me is that printer configuration is extremely customizable. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/25

<issue_start>username_0: I have a very dense point cloud (billions of points) of the exterior of a building obtained by laser scanning it with a Leica head. I successfully subsampled it down to around 500,000 and I'm trying to print the building by first creating a mesh. I tried using CloudCompare, Meshlab and PDAL, using Poisson surface reconstruction. However, the resulting mesh is full of holes, mainly in the roofs which have the lowest point density, and I cannot print it. Is there any algorithm which could use the fact that the point cloud is precisely the exterior part of a geometric thing?<issue_comment>username_1: The foundation of any 3D printer is the controller and the firmware. Many devices are based on Arduino type controllers, with stepper motor driver boards either integrated or added as a plug-in component. Some manufacturers will use in-house or outside resources and develop their own boards and firmware. You can search for 3D printer controllers and get a pretty comprehensive list of the various devices available for purchase. Smoothieboard is one device, Raspberry Pi and Arduino as noted above, and others. There can be found varying "flavors" of firmware to load onto these controllers as well. The field is exhaustive. To address your focus regarding the printing aspect, that's one stepper motor per print head/nozzle (usually) and involves calibrating the amount of filament dispensed from the nozzle per unit steps, or more easily understood, amount of steps per unit of filament movement. My stepper motor for the extruder has a planetary gear and moves 100 mm of filament for about 5000 steps. All of the parameters you've noted are integrated with the firmware. Motor calibration requires movement per step or steps per millimeter to be entered, unless you purchase a turnkey system with the values loaded. You can adjust many of the parameters from the slicing software, but it's more practical to determine the calibration settings, enter that information into your slicer and proceed with model management. Look into instructables for others' build projects to see what they've accomplished and the steps involved in such a build. This can give you a starting point for your efforts. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: this is an extension to fred\_dot\_u answer. As I am in the process of building my own printer, I decided to use RAMPS Arduino shield for electronics and Marlin firmware + Arduino mega2560 as a logic controller. As above are battle-tested, I don't need to discover wheel again, but rather focus on the mechanics. The RAMPS mainboard will provide you with the ability to connect 5 steppers and 3 PWM regulated devices (that can be heat-bed, nozzle and fan or combination) and there is still possibility to connect more as a bunch of IO pins are ready to alocate. MarlinFirmware is avalible on github, so you can download it and then provide all mechanical parameters that are needed to properly drive your printer -so that is: 1. Mainboard type 2. type coreXY, XZ .... 3. bed size (x,y) 4. gantry size (z) 5. steps / mm for steppers 6. thermal protection parameters 7. LCD display (if in use) The main benefit of using Marlin for me is that printer configuration is extremely customizable. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/26

<issue_start>username_0: I was working on a model today and I need to make the black surface into a normal surface so that the ship's cockpit is solid. I am unable to select the black surface. I tried using the flip normals feature, but I was still unable to select it. Any advice on how to make it into a solid is greatly appreciated. Thanks. :) Edit: Here's the link to the file <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mbTdeeZqhNJx-WlXNqF8mD8QYDSI3Vh_/view?usp=sharing> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bInCO.png)<issue_comment>username_1: The foundation of any 3D printer is the controller and the firmware. Many devices are based on Arduino type controllers, with stepper motor driver boards either integrated or added as a plug-in component. Some manufacturers will use in-house or outside resources and develop their own boards and firmware. You can search for 3D printer controllers and get a pretty comprehensive list of the various devices available for purchase. Smoothieboard is one device, Raspberry Pi and Arduino as noted above, and others. There can be found varying "flavors" of firmware to load onto these controllers as well. The field is exhaustive. To address your focus regarding the printing aspect, that's one stepper motor per print head/nozzle (usually) and involves calibrating the amount of filament dispensed from the nozzle per unit steps, or more easily understood, amount of steps per unit of filament movement. My stepper motor for the extruder has a planetary gear and moves 100 mm of filament for about 5000 steps. All of the parameters you've noted are integrated with the firmware. Motor calibration requires movement per step or steps per millimeter to be entered, unless you purchase a turnkey system with the values loaded. You can adjust many of the parameters from the slicing software, but it's more practical to determine the calibration settings, enter that information into your slicer and proceed with model management. Look into instructables for others' build projects to see what they've accomplished and the steps involved in such a build. This can give you a starting point for your efforts. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: this is an extension to fred\_dot\_u answer. As I am in the process of building my own printer, I decided to use RAMPS Arduino shield for electronics and Marlin firmware + Arduino mega2560 as a logic controller. As above are battle-tested, I don't need to discover wheel again, but rather focus on the mechanics. The RAMPS mainboard will provide you with the ability to connect 5 steppers and 3 PWM regulated devices (that can be heat-bed, nozzle and fan or combination) and there is still possibility to connect more as a bunch of IO pins are ready to alocate. MarlinFirmware is avalible on github, so you can download it and then provide all mechanical parameters that are needed to properly drive your printer -so that is: 1. Mainboard type 2. type coreXY, XZ .... 3. bed size (x,y) 4. gantry size (z) 5. steps / mm for steppers 6. thermal protection parameters 7. LCD display (if in use) The main benefit of using Marlin for me is that printer configuration is extremely customizable. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/26

<issue_start>username_0: I was considering printing some pieces for my irrigation system, like tube connectors and such. I am aware that PLA is hydrophilic so I was wondering with what kind of product I could coat the pieces, non-toxicity is a requirement because it will water edible greens. So, what kind of non-toxic product can I use to coat PLA to make it hydrophobic?<issue_comment>username_1: Before worrying too much about the hydrophilic properties of PLA, it might be worthwhile to test a fitting. First, print a fitting and see that the freshly made print is strong enough to carry the pressure of the water, and the compression force of hose clamp you may need to connect the stiff irrigation hose to the printed fitting. Second, soak the printed fitting in water for month or two, perhaps at an elevated temperature to match the higher ground temperature in the summer. You could put the part in a closed mason jar and leave it in the sun. You might add a little salt and fertilizer to the water to simulate ground conditions. After this aging process, you could test to see if it withstands the pressure of the domestic water system. You might also measure the ground temperatures where you intend to use the fittings. I find that PLA has no structural strength above about 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Centigrade), and the inability to resist slow plastic may start at an even lower temperature. [For example, I print structural PLA parts with negative clearances and then dip them in 160 degree F water to soften them.] If the printed fittings are strong enough but suffer from water absorption, I would either print them of ABS or coat them with an ABS coating. To make the coating, dissolve ABS in acetone until it is the consistency of thick cream, dip your fitting in the mixture, and allow them to dry. It will take longer than you think it should to dry, and the solution will take more ABS plastic than you might expect. ABS is not generally considered to be "food safe", but this isn't a potable water system. The FDA lists ABS as conditionally food safe, and I would be comfortable using it to irrigate my lawn and vegetables. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: PLA will biodegrade over time. ABS would last longer, and stand up to higher temps. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/26

<issue_start>username_0: Given a large set of data, I was able to create a 3D graph in Microsoft Excel. How can I create a STL file similar to this graph to create a physical model of this graph? [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xvJhX.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Before worrying too much about the hydrophilic properties of PLA, it might be worthwhile to test a fitting. First, print a fitting and see that the freshly made print is strong enough to carry the pressure of the water, and the compression force of hose clamp you may need to connect the stiff irrigation hose to the printed fitting. Second, soak the printed fitting in water for month or two, perhaps at an elevated temperature to match the higher ground temperature in the summer. You could put the part in a closed mason jar and leave it in the sun. You might add a little salt and fertilizer to the water to simulate ground conditions. After this aging process, you could test to see if it withstands the pressure of the domestic water system. You might also measure the ground temperatures where you intend to use the fittings. I find that PLA has no structural strength above about 150 degrees Fahrenheit (65 degrees Centigrade), and the inability to resist slow plastic may start at an even lower temperature. [For example, I print structural PLA parts with negative clearances and then dip them in 160 degree F water to soften them.] If the printed fittings are strong enough but suffer from water absorption, I would either print them of ABS or coat them with an ABS coating. To make the coating, dissolve ABS in acetone until it is the consistency of thick cream, dip your fitting in the mixture, and allow them to dry. It will take longer than you think it should to dry, and the solution will take more ABS plastic than you might expect. ABS is not generally considered to be "food safe", but this isn't a potable water system. The FDA lists ABS as conditionally food safe, and I would be comfortable using it to irrigate my lawn and vegetables. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: PLA will biodegrade over time. ABS would last longer, and stand up to higher temps. Upvotes: 1

2018/04/28

<issue_start>username_0: If I have a stl file is there a good way to estimate how long it will take to print on a given printer? I know there are a lot of things that go into print speed, such as the speed of the printer, the size of the print, etc. I was wondering if anyone knows of perhaps an application that you could enter your printer's specifications and the stl that you want to print, and it could calculate the print time?<issue_comment>username_1: All commonly used slicers (e.g., Cura, Slic3r, Simplify3D,...) give an estimation of the print time. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cPaM6.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2D5tZ.png) Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The duration of a print is affected by the print properties. Speed, nozzle diameter (or line width), layer height, amount of perimeters, infill percentage, combing, support structures to name a few important parameters. So, the only way to tell how long the printer will be printing a certain STL is by loading the STL file into a slicer and slice the model with those settings. The most common free slicers are Ultimaker Cura, Slic3r and payed slicer Simplify3D. Alternatively, when you **already have G-code files** and do not have the STL anymore or don't want to slice it again (e.g. because you cannot remember which settings you used), you could upload your G-code [here](http://gcode.ws/#) and it will calculate it approximately for you (as it does not know the dynamics of the printer). Note that these times are approximations of the real time it takes to print the object as it integrates the tool path and speed to get the time. Sometimes these calculations are off as the actual printer may behave differently than projected by the slicer. From experience I can tell that the Ultimaker Cura slicer predicts fairly accurate print times for the Ultimaker 3, so they have tuned their slicer software to their machines. For your own build or other brands this may result in different/inaccurate print time estimations. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I use Repetier software with the Cura slicer and the print time estimate tends to be about 10 % longer than the actual print. Upvotes: 1

2018/05/02

<issue_start>username_0: I just changed my nozzle on my Anet A8 after it was fully used up. When I started printing with my new 0.4 mm nozzle (same as before) my [extrusion](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KEOul.jpg) was VERY bad and inconsistent, even so bad I couldn't continue printing because it would pull the first layer off. If I compare it to my [extrusion](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5cjuO.jpg) before the nozzle switch, it is really bad, even though I tightened everything as before. I am quite sure it doesn't have to do with adhesion to the heated bed since I use tape with PVA glue. Any advice on how to remove this under extrusion so I can continue printing? All the specs: * 25 mm/s first layer print speed * 200 °C nozzle * 60 °C bed * PLA filament; * 0.4 mm nozzle size Let me know if there is anything else you need to know.<issue_comment>username_1: Your good extrusion look also a little bad , and the bad extrusion looks like a big feeding problem. for this you need: Feeding.- try to tight the presure of the feeder thread, the one that press the filament on the extruder. Bed Adhesion.- Use between 32° and 38°C if you are using masking tape, on higher temperatures the masking tape becomes to peel off if any border of the printing part is close to the edge of the tape. Sand the masking tape surface and clean it to be free of dust (eliminate shiny surface) with this is enough to get a good adhesion; I recommend TUK and 3D brands, they are sticky. If you need more adhesion you can spray a little hair spray, just one pass. Clogged Nozzle.- you need to clean it, on your kitchen stove heat the nozzle until melt the filament, then use some cooper wire (some phone wiring has it) to remove residues inside the nozzle. If posible you can buy a drill bit with 0.4mm diameter to ensure a complete cleaning. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: In the nozzle assembled properly? As I assumed that there were no other changes during the nozzle exchange process, then there is a risk of a gap inside throat and nozzle that just builds up and blocks the extrusion. Please see [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5830/9730) for an assembly hints. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: To be sure it's from your nozzle / extrusion mecanism, you could check calibration by extruding (in the air) 100mm of filament, and check how much it really uses. If it uses 100mm (or so), then the problem comes from any other parts (bed, filament feeding...). If this is really an extrusion problem, first you can check again your extrusion step motor gear. If it's ok, then you could put back your old nozzle to ensure the new one is the problem... If all is ok with the old one, then yous should have something in your new one, or it's not a .4mm ? Upvotes: 2

2018/05/02

<issue_start>username_0: Currently I am using a 12 volts, 20 amperes power supply (Model S-240-12) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fraEVm.jpg) The stepper motors and the extruder need 5 amp, and the heated bed build plate needs 11 amp. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fXymv.jpg) Technically you only need to use a 12 Volts, 16 amperes power supply, but I understand that you use the one with 20 amp because pulse currents from extruders and stepper motors can be stressful to supplies loaded to the max, so for reliability and performance, it is better to use a supply rated for 25% more than you need In the place where I buy the spare parts for my 3d printer they also sell 12 V power supplies capable of delivering 25 amp and 30 amp and they told me that if I use those ones you are going to be able to speed up the heating of the heated bed. Is that true? I understand that the heated bed is only going to take the 11 amp that it needs so is not going to make any difference to use power supplies capable of delivering more current<issue_comment>username_1: Changing the PSU with one with a higher amperage will ***not*** make the bed heat up any faster unless the PSU is underrated for the amperage required and the voltage is dropping as a result of the load. This can be checked by measuring the output voltage with a multimeter (when the PSU is loaded e.g. by a heating heat bed). In this case, the PSU has a marginal higher Amperage than the printer consumes (even has some room for the over-voltage; ***under the assumption that it is a good working PSU***). Increasing the voltage will decrease the heat up time. There is a screw next to the 12 V connectors that can change the output voltage of the PSU. Usually, it is safe to increase the voltage up to 14 V, but that depends on your whole setup (and 14 V is applied to the whole setup, increasing the current for **all** parts, including your printer controller board, this board must be rated for the 14 V). **Please do check the stability of the voltage during load.** Although it can be done, it is not something I used. What is an extra minute on a print of several hours? You can do the math: say the heat bed has a resistance of 1.2 Ω. We only need two formulas: * $U=R\times I$ - potential Difference ***U*** is Resistance ***R*** times Current ***I*** * $P=U\times I=I^2\times R=\frac {U^2} R$. The power ***P*** of an item the potential difference times the current through the item. * at **12 V** that will draw 10 Amps (12 V / 1.2 Ω) resulting in a 120 Watt bed: $P= 12^2 \text V \times 10^2 \text A= {10^2 \text A}\times {1.2\ \Omega}=\frac{12^2 \text V} {1.2\ \Omega} $), * at **14 V** that same bed will draw 11.7 Amps (14 V / 1.2 Ω) resulting in a 163.3 Watt bed. *Use at your own risk!* What you could do to decrease time to heat the bed without changing the PSU or the voltage is to insulate the bottom of the heat bed with heat bed cotton sheets or cork (placemats from IKEA ;) ), put a sheet of cork onto the heat bed before printing and start heating the bed through the LCD panel of the printer or any attached printer controller programs over USB prior to printing. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: May I recommend an alternative approach, which does not require any change of hardware? The time required to heat the bed is not huge, so either via USB from your computer or from the front panel, instruct your printer to heat the bed first, while you're setting everything else up (loading gcode files, changing filaments, or whatever). This way tasks are completed in parallel. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Also a thing that helped to preheat faster: make sure no draft is cooling down bed. It sounds obvious but cold-end fan and window draft, even psu fan draft can contribute significantly to preheat time. Eliminating draft source changed bed preheat time from 10 down to 5 minutes in my case... Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: I glued (high temperature silicone) an isolation (cork 5-8mm) on the bottom side of my heatbed. It avoids loosing heat thru the bottom side. Effect: minimal faster heatup and less energy consuming over the time of use. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: I hate to sound like the Toolman Tayler from that old TV show. "But, it comes down to More Power!" Power is the ability to do work (move a mass certain distance) within certain amount of time. Power = mass x distance x Time. It can also be expressed in electrical terms, as the ability to heat something within certain amount of time. Power = Voltage x Current Since most systems have a fixed voltage, it is still possible to increase power by increasing the current, since, Voltage = Resistance x Current, And Power = Voltage x Current, So, Power = (Resistance x Current) x Current. So by switching a power supply with the same voltage, but higher current, it will provide additional power to the system. The larger current available would be able to flow through the heating elements, heating them up faster. However the caveat will be the amount of heat dissipation in the system, the large surface of the bed, will carry away enough of the heat due to air convection, that it may not make much of a difference. Or perhaps the heating element may not handle the larger amount of current and burn out. It would be worth testing it out, in my humble opinion. Hopefully without causing a fire somewhere. :-) Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_6: A more powerful PSU only would solve the problem in two cases: Either your PSU is anemic and underpowered in the first place, or you want you'd separate the bed's power supply from the rest of the machine - by using a higher **Voltage** for the bed. This would however need you to regulate the heating by having the board control not the bed directly but, control a (Normally Open for safety!) MOSFET, which in turn throttles the power to the bed. In that case, you can use the resistance R of the bed with whatever voltage your alternate PSU provides to get the power that is turned into heat from the bed using $P\_\text{bed}=\frac{U\_\text{bed}^2}{R\_\text{bed}}$. Our MOSFET can regulate the power that is turned into heat in the bed as it is a Variable Resistance: The total potential differential stays the same, but the voltage available to the heated bed is governed by the resistance of the bed and the MOSFET's resistance. Since the two are in line, they have the same Current flowing through them: $$U\_\text{supply}=U\_\text{bed}+U\_\text{MOSFET}=I\_\text{total}\times(R\_\text{bed}+R\_\text{MOSFET})$$ That results in what is commonly called a Voltage Divider: the voltage that is available for the bed comes from a derivate of that: $$U\_\text{bed}=U\_\text{supply}(\frac{R\_\text{bed}}{R\_\text{MOSFET}+R\_\text{bed}})$$ Why the hazzle? --------------- Often, a board also might have a potentiometer for each power exit, and these are generally nothing else but variable resistances - and give us the same effect as a MOSFET for controlling the voltage available to a bed. If available, turning the Bed-Potentiometer a tiny bit will provide just a little higher voltage to the bed and allow slightly faster heating. Upvotes: 1

2018/05/04

<issue_start>username_0: While this may seem like terribly noobish question, I'm sure one day someone will have same problem. I own a ZONESTAR P802QSU (Bowden extruder) and all of sudden my extruder motor stopped working. What I did: 1. I check whether or not motor is moving freely - I can rotate it without any problems manually. 2. I checked out cable and plugs - everything seems OK. 3. I checked whether motor is working after plugging it into another slot in motherboard - motor works fine. 4. I checked if another motor works after plugging it into same slot on mainboard - and it does not. It would seem that there is something wrong with E0-mot driver module, or with socket. I'm however totally at loss about what can I do with any of those. I do not have any electronic equipment except multimeter, and voltage on motor seems fine(11.3V between red and black, I guess V+ and ground). It sometimes seemed to get lower, but I'm almost sure it is my trembling hands. After some googling, I started checking A4988 stepper driver with my multimeter. VDD was ~5V and VMOT around 12V, so it seems to work at least in this way. What can I do, to see what is broken? Visually nothing looks like it burned out, but I'm fully aware it may not be visible.<issue_comment>username_1: Changing the PSU with one with a higher amperage will ***not*** make the bed heat up any faster unless the PSU is underrated for the amperage required and the voltage is dropping as a result of the load. This can be checked by measuring the output voltage with a multimeter (when the PSU is loaded e.g. by a heating heat bed). In this case, the PSU has a marginal higher Amperage than the printer consumes (even has some room for the over-voltage; ***under the assumption that it is a good working PSU***). Increasing the voltage will decrease the heat up time. There is a screw next to the 12 V connectors that can change the output voltage of the PSU. Usually, it is safe to increase the voltage up to 14 V, but that depends on your whole setup (and 14 V is applied to the whole setup, increasing the current for **all** parts, including your printer controller board, this board must be rated for the 14 V). **Please do check the stability of the voltage during load.** Although it can be done, it is not something I used. What is an extra minute on a print of several hours? You can do the math: say the heat bed has a resistance of 1.2 Ω. We only need two formulas: * $U=R\times I$ - potential Difference ***U*** is Resistance ***R*** times Current ***I*** * $P=U\times I=I^2\times R=\frac {U^2} R$. The power ***P*** of an item the potential difference times the current through the item. * at **12 V** that will draw 10 Amps (12 V / 1.2 Ω) resulting in a 120 Watt bed: $P= 12^2 \text V \times 10^2 \text A= {10^2 \text A}\times {1.2\ \Omega}=\frac{12^2 \text V} {1.2\ \Omega} $), * at **14 V** that same bed will draw 11.7 Amps (14 V / 1.2 Ω) resulting in a 163.3 Watt bed. *Use at your own risk!* What you could do to decrease time to heat the bed without changing the PSU or the voltage is to insulate the bottom of the heat bed with heat bed cotton sheets or cork (placemats from IKEA ;) ), put a sheet of cork onto the heat bed before printing and start heating the bed through the LCD panel of the printer or any attached printer controller programs over USB prior to printing. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: May I recommend an alternative approach, which does not require any change of hardware? The time required to heat the bed is not huge, so either via USB from your computer or from the front panel, instruct your printer to heat the bed first, while you're setting everything else up (loading gcode files, changing filaments, or whatever). This way tasks are completed in parallel. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Also a thing that helped to preheat faster: make sure no draft is cooling down bed. It sounds obvious but cold-end fan and window draft, even psu fan draft can contribute significantly to preheat time. Eliminating draft source changed bed preheat time from 10 down to 5 minutes in my case... Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: I glued (high temperature silicone) an isolation (cork 5-8mm) on the bottom side of my heatbed. It avoids loosing heat thru the bottom side. Effect: minimal faster heatup and less energy consuming over the time of use. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: I hate to sound like the Toolman Tayler from that old TV show. "But, it comes down to More Power!" Power is the ability to do work (move a mass certain distance) within certain amount of time. Power = mass x distance x Time. It can also be expressed in electrical terms, as the ability to heat something within certain amount of time. Power = Voltage x Current Since most systems have a fixed voltage, it is still possible to increase power by increasing the current, since, Voltage = Resistance x Current, And Power = Voltage x Current, So, Power = (Resistance x Current) x Current. So by switching a power supply with the same voltage, but higher current, it will provide additional power to the system. The larger current available would be able to flow through the heating elements, heating them up faster. However the caveat will be the amount of heat dissipation in the system, the large surface of the bed, will carry away enough of the heat due to air convection, that it may not make much of a difference. Or perhaps the heating element may not handle the larger amount of current and burn out. It would be worth testing it out, in my humble opinion. Hopefully without causing a fire somewhere. :-) Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_6: A more powerful PSU only would solve the problem in two cases: Either your PSU is anemic and underpowered in the first place, or you want you'd separate the bed's power supply from the rest of the machine - by using a higher **Voltage** for the bed. This would however need you to regulate the heating by having the board control not the bed directly but, control a (Normally Open for safety!) MOSFET, which in turn throttles the power to the bed. In that case, you can use the resistance R of the bed with whatever voltage your alternate PSU provides to get the power that is turned into heat from the bed using $P\_\text{bed}=\frac{U\_\text{bed}^2}{R\_\text{bed}}$. Our MOSFET can regulate the power that is turned into heat in the bed as it is a Variable Resistance: The total potential differential stays the same, but the voltage available to the heated bed is governed by the resistance of the bed and the MOSFET's resistance. Since the two are in line, they have the same Current flowing through them: $$U\_\text{supply}=U\_\text{bed}+U\_\text{MOSFET}=I\_\text{total}\times(R\_\text{bed}+R\_\text{MOSFET})$$ That results in what is commonly called a Voltage Divider: the voltage that is available for the bed comes from a derivate of that: $$U\_\text{bed}=U\_\text{supply}(\frac{R\_\text{bed}}{R\_\text{MOSFET}+R\_\text{bed}})$$ Why the hazzle? --------------- Often, a board also might have a potentiometer for each power exit, and these are generally nothing else but variable resistances - and give us the same effect as a MOSFET for controlling the voltage available to a bed. If available, turning the Bed-Potentiometer a tiny bit will provide just a little higher voltage to the bed and allow slightly faster heating. Upvotes: 1

2018/05/06

<issue_start>username_0: My Printrbot simple metal's extruder is jammed and I need to heat it up to unjam it. Unfortunately, the printer does't want to connect to my laptop regardless of the program I'm using (Repetier-Host or Cura 15). Is there a way to use a micro SD card to heat up the printer hotend but not print anything?<issue_comment>username_1: Sure there is. As you use Cura, you can grab any G-code file (you already have) and use it to set hotend temperature (delete the actual printing part from the file) to get something like this: ``` ;FLAVOR:Marlin ;TIME:102 ;Filament used: 0.0573674m ;Layer height: 0.2 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.3.1 ; M190 S60 ;-> this sets the bed temperature so we can comment it out ; the next line sets the hotend to 200 degrees Celsius M104 S200 ``` As every line that starts with a semi-colon is a comment and is ignored by the printer, `M104 S200`, would be the only line you need in the printout file. If you're interested in knowing more - look here: [G-codes on reprap wiki](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code) Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I heated it up and was able to extract some plastic that had gotten jammed in the hot ends opening. I heated up the hotend by commenting out all the other lines of code in Cura's start and end G-code tabs (must have missed some because the printer moved. I would just unplug the printer when it stopped moving). I used an SD card but it would probably work with USB too. I tried to force the filament in to force the jam out of the hotend, but that did nothing. I took apart the extruder assembly and discovered that a section of filament that was too wide got stuck in the hotend's entrance. I pulled the filament out using me multitool and put the extruder back together. Hope this helps others with a similar problem. Upvotes: 1

2018/05/07

<issue_start>username_0: I want to know how to make a mold of a 3D design in .stl format. Suppose I have a 3D partin .stl format (for e.g. a cylinder) and I want to make/design a mold for this object (i.e. the structure through which I could make the cylinder). Is there any way to do so? Are there any tools to do so? My requirement is as follows: I have an .stl file of a design and need to develop the CAD files for its mold. I will then need to 3D print these molds. I would require to add a hole to pour in liquid (resin based) raw material which hardens with time.<issue_comment>username_1: You can also bring the model and a big box into slic3r, align and orient them (enclose the model in the box), and do a subtract modifier, leaving a hollow where the two intersected. You probably want to do this twice, for a top mould and a botom mould. I've done this, but I don't see any instructions online for it. :( EDIT: Unfortunately, this would be very tedious. It's much easier to use meshmixer or another publicly available program to subtract one stl from another. In Slic3r, using another stl as a modifier has no effect unless you are also printing that second stl (normally from another head). So you would have to manually remove all the gcode for the second head. Sorry for the bad advice. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: In addition to the answer of username_1 (which describes a surprising feature of the slicer software I was unaware of), a more generic description would involve the use of a 3D solid model CAD program. You should be aware that a model in STL format is not a solid model, it is a surface model. In order to make a mold you would have to import the STL model into a CAD program (there are a few free ones available like Fusion 360 or FreeCAD or maybe many more that will work also) and make a solid body from the surface model. Next thing is to create a large rectangular block and subtract the positive model from the block. Now a negative lives inside this block so you will need to conveniently cut the block through your negative to create 2 mold parts. Be sure that you divide the block so that you can take out the casting from the mold parts and also add an entry to pour in the liquid casting material and add risers (holes) to de-aerate the cavity. Furthermore, for alignment, you could add pins and holes to the mold parts. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: While trying to find a soloution to this problem I came across [this forum post](https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,192082), which led me to "[Parametric two-part mold generator for OpenSCAD](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31581)" on Thingiverse. > > A set of parametric OpenSCAD scripts that generate ready-to-print two-part molds from arbitrary STL models. > > > These scripts can be used to generate either square (with or without > rounded corners) or circular two-part molds and are fully > parameterized to make it easy to adapt for your application. > > > Here's an example from Thingiverse. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YY31p.jpg) You can find a download, install instructions or source code for OpenSCAD [here](http://www.openscad.org/downloads.html). Upvotes: 2